LIVE from the Camino Account of a very challenging day SJPdP to Roncesvalles (crazy weather)

[garlicbread]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

 

[Lindsay53]

An interesting day garlicbread! Glad to see you heeded the advice of the Pilgrims Office and the members here and did not attempt the Route Napoleon. A bit of anxiety is perfectly normal and with that hard first day behind you, you will soon settle down to the pilgrims daily routine. Buen Camino!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

My advice is to start this way rather than it being the default towards the end.

That way you will have much better footing. I have seen some bad falls from people trying to avoid getting their feet or shoes wet.

You shoes will get wet anyway. Accept that and ensure that you have a good footing.

The day that I walked from Roncesvalles in 2019 the rain was so hard that they closed the trail in the afternoon because the river flooded and was above the trail in spots. That day I stopped in Zabaldika (fabulous). I had planned on staying in the German albergue in Pamplona. The German albergue had it's basement flooded and some pilgrims luggage was very wet.

 

[J Willhaus]

Thanks so much for your account. So many members or viewers just solicit feedback or view threads without engaging again. I can feel the discomfort in the weather, and I personally would have stopped at Valcarlos although, I expect it was busy today on your way to Roncesvalles.

I am personally eager to find out how your luggage saga plays out. I am stuck here in Laramie, WY, until I retire May 16( 12 more days) and then I am off to Alaska for the summer. I am so hoping your Camino will smooth out. I remember our first Camino when we left all the charging cords in Orisson and could not replace them until Pamplona and those early bumps were painful, but eventually things did smooth out and 8 years later, we are working on planning our 9th Camino trip. Hang in there and ask away if you have questions. You will get both good and terrible advice, but it will guide you to choosing your own pathway. Buen Camino!
Janet

 

[VNwalking]

Thank you for this, @garlicbread .
Words to pay attention to should anyone be down in St Jean wondering which way to go in dodgy weather.

I'm glad you made it in one piece and hope he luggage situation is resolved soon.
Buen camino, peregrina!

Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful

Isn't it? This way is seriously underrated.

 

[senora1]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

What a first day you had, one you won’t forget. I am hoping your luggage gets delivered soon to take that burden away. Keep us posted. Ultreia

 

[Kirkie]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

I am happy to read that you got safely to Roncesvalles. If you have a look around in albergues, or ask hospitaleros, you might find some additional clothing left by other pilgrims till you can get some yourself in Decathlon in Pamplona. There is a big shop not far from the railway station, but there is a smaller one near enough to the bullring. There is also a sports shop people recommend near the Cathedral.
Mind your step, and buen camino.

 

[SantiagoCruzB]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

Thanks for the update. Stay healthy and safe. It's so easy to get sick in this kind of weather. Buen Camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks for the update. Stay healthy and safe. It's so easy to get sick in this kind of weather. Buen Camino!

Yes, and sick of the weather!
Still, it's great to be experiencing what we came here to do; a little different for each one of us.

 

[davejsy]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

So glad you made the most of your first day and it all went as well as can be expected in the difficult conditions. I hope you get the other things sorted and can enjoy and get the most out of what I'm sure will be an amazing experience for you on this beautiful path.

 

[woody66]

I am going the Valcarlos way from SJPP on the 16th if it's been raining or is raining i will walk the road !!
Decided that months ago i know there's traffic but at least the surface is a constant.

 

[SayaTibi2023]

I also want to thank you for your update. I had been following the other thread and was wondering what you would do and how it would turn out. Its good information to have as I prepare for my own camino. Thanks again.

 

[looking4totoro]

First, I am so glad you went the safe route and arrived safely. I also so appreciate your post on weather. I am a first time senior pilgram starting May 5 from STJP. and have booked thru Pamplona. To cut back weight, I was just bringing an Atlus poncho and a light fleece and one long sleeve and short sleeve to layer and was going to leave my waterproof jacket to save weight..but I think I need to bring it now...I didn't realize it might be so cold in these first few days. Thank you again for sharing, and I pray the weather gets better for you...safe travels...and buen camino:^)

 

[Former member 115996]

Thank you so much for a great "live" report from the trail, your cat and me were truly worried about what was going on there. I walked both variants and, as I wrote before, with this kind of weather forecast I wouldn't go, I would just wait one day or take a bus (or a Bourricot Express) to Roncesvalles.
I imagined exactly what you said, water running through ravines, which are many on the Valcarlos route. Some people wrote, oh Valcarlos is such a beautiful trail, yes it is indeed, except who cares about the views under such conditions when your body is almost in a survival mode. On the other hand, the Npoleon route is quite exposed to the wind so you can be blown off the road if the wind is very strong. On Valcarlos route you are more protected from the wind.
Anyways, congratulations again. After walking that stage, nothing should be able to stop you from getting to Santiago! You got yourself a Camino "baptism of water" and you did very well, you can be proud of yourself. Have a safe walk and Buen Camino!

 

[lvf]

Well done Garlicbread! I'm so glad to hear that you stayed safe ( albeit wet!) and walked the Valcarlos Route. It was a very good decision! Thanks so much for the update. Buen Camino!

 

[K_Lynn]

Day one done! Glad you made it through the rain and snow to food and a bed!

Buen Camino!

 

[JulieandPeter]

Thank you for the update! If there is a lot of rain in the forecast, you might want to trade in your too small poncho for an Altus poncho. I did this mid-Camino one year and it made all the difference in the world to be dry and comfortable. Buen Camino!

 

[gregrobinson]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

I believe Valcarlos is actually the original route, so you walked in the footsteps of Charlemagne:
"The Valcarlos route, also known as the Valley of Carlos, is named after Charlemagne, whose name is Spanish for Charles. The name comes from an event that took place in 778 AD when Charlemagne was crossing the Pyrenees after finishing a campaign in Spain. While playing chess in the Valcarlos valley, Charlemagne's rear guard was killed at Roncesvalles, which translates to "Valley of the Thorns". "

It's going to be a busy year, very challenging as far as accommodations go, and early May has lots of rainy days and cold/freezing temps. Best to adjust now and make sure you have a waterproof layer to go over the fleece. Going to be rainy for the next few days and by Tuesday should be sunny with a few clouds. Decathlon Sporting goods is closed on Sunday, so go on Saturday in Pamplona if necessary.

 

[J Willhaus]

@garlicbread ,
Be sure to check the "give away" box at your next albergue for an extra layer of clothes if you don't have enough to keep you warm right now. New pilgrims usually start discarding things away after the first day or so when they find their packs are too heavy. You may find something that will keep you warmer or dryer. You never know what you might find. You can always leave it at another albergue if you find you don't need it after a few days.

I remember one year in Estella in July we had a collection of coats, rain gear, clothing, several tents, sleeping mats, a compass, a Boy Scout cookset for an entire troop, and a propane stove with fuel. All overflowing from the give away box...there might be something good in there!

 

[Rita Flower]

First, I am so glad you went the safe route and arrived safely. I also so appreciate your post on weather. I am a first time senior pilgram starting May 5 from STJP. and have booked thru Pamplona. To cut back weight, I was just bringing an Atlus poncho and a light fleece and one long sleeve and short sleeve to layer and was going to leave my waterproof jacket to save weight..but I think I need to bring it now...I didn't realize it might be so cold in these first few days. Thank you again for sharing, and I pray the weather gets better for you...safe travels...and buen camino:^)

Quick note on clothes. I pack three merino top layers of different weights, a light wind fleece, light wind jacket and poncho. Those layers are enough for temp down to 1C. But I haven’t walked in very low temps and rain so …..
The most I put on was two merino layers, wind fleece, wind jacket and poncho. Each layer was pretty light but altogether I was never cold.
I think a waterproof (Gortex) jacket could be rather heavy. It’s the merino long and short sleeve shirts as a base layer that keep you warm. And food!!!

 

[dreaming]

Hi Garlic bread, I am glad you are safe. I walked the Napoleon route twice in brilliant sunshine. I do remember the emergency huts however there were pilgrims in there resting from the heat. I also recall the rocks with plaques where pilgrims had died.
I walked the last two weeks in October on the CF in rain. I loved it all but it was miserable so can't imagine your first day experience. It can only get better from here.

 

[CWBuff]

I believe Valcarlos is actually the original route, so you walked in the footsteps of Charlemagne:
"The Valcarlos route, also known as the Valley of Carlos, is named after Charlemagne, whose name is Spanish for Charles. The name comes from an event that took place in 778 AD when Charlemagne was crossing the Pyrenees after finishing a campaign in Spain. While playing chess in the Valcarlos valley, Charlemagne's rear guard was killed at Roncesvalles, which translates to "Valley of the Thorns". "

Ummm...not according to @Monasp who cites Codex Calistinus nonetheless

Post in thread 'They are recommending the Valcarlos route tomorrow, how foolish would it be to go Napoleon?' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...would-it-be-to-go-napoleon.86604/post-1251448

 

[CWBuff]

@garlicbread Hola Peregrina
Glad you perceivered through a pretty hard day. I am sure you realize by now that Camino is full of unexpected surprises and are also learning to take them in stride
By now hopefully you are over Alto Perdon and (also hopefully) perhaps took a detour to Santa María de Eunate; enjoy the experience
Good luck, Buen Camino and ULTREIA

 

[David Tallan]

Ummm...not according to @Monasp who cites Codex Calistinus nonetheless

Post in thread 'They are recommending the Valcarlos route tomorrow, how foolish would it be to go Napoleon?' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...would-it-be-to-go-napoleon.86604/post-1251448

I think Charlemagne predates the Codex Calixtinus by a few centuries.

 

[VNwalking]

I think Charlemagne predates the Codex Calixtinus by a few centuries.

Yes, but @Monasp was specifically referring to the route pilgrims took, referred to in the Codex. It was news to me, too, TBH.

 

[David Tallan]

Yes, but @Monasp was specifically referring to the route pilgrims took, referred to in the Codex. It was news to me, too, TBH.

True. But that was the route when the Codex was written, several centuries after the pilgrimage started, which was closer to the time of Charlemagne. The Codex may be the first Pilgrim Guide, but the pilgrimage had been around for quite some time before that. If the Valcarlos route was more commonly used in the earlier middle ages, who is to say that it wasn't used then by pilgrims. And heaven knows (and the Codex attests), the stories of Charlemagne and the stories of the early Camino are closely intertwined.

 

[CWBuff]

Re the last 3 posts. It is hard to play facts with history when we can only guess certain things and try as we may chances are we will never fully know the "real truth ".
That said to my best knowledge there is absolutely nothing that connects Charlemagne to The Camino.
The relics were discovered "in early IX Century without giving any specific year.
Charlemagne dues is 814 which then gives us only these 14 years at best for possible establishment of said possible connection.
There are no documents once so ever that say anything on the matter. Even his Spanish March Campaign does not encompass going as far West as SdC although readily mentioned The Pyrenees and the Basques.
Point I am trying to make is that even if
Ibanetta Pass and Roncesvalles and hence the route known now as Valcarlos were used by him and his troops it does NOT make it "the original way".

 

[Bog526]

Hello all. Here to give a brief account of my (and many others) first day on the Camino on May 1.

The trip to Roncesvalles was tough. I went Valcarlos route because napoleon was very ill advised due to the snow storm.

I did not have the proper gear for a day like this-my poncho is super small and I just have a fleece for warmth, and I just have trail runners and no hiking shoes. In fact I almost stayed behind and took the bus to Roncesvalles. I was very nervous.

It drizzled pretty hard all day. I was soaking wet by hour 2. I got to Valcarlos and wrung out all my clothes.

After Valcarlos the incline starts, so things just got more challenging. It was very very muddy, the trail was basically a small river. Eventually I didn’t even bother stepping around puddles.

With about 1/4 of the way left, the drizzle turned into a light snow. It wasn’t sticking on the ground and honestly wasn’t a huge bother. A change up from the rain was nice. It was around 38 degrees at the top. I had no problems with the cold because I was getting hot from the walk. Being soaked was a bother though.

A gentleman had to be taken down to roncesvalles from the peak by the police because he was not well. He said he was too cold.

I finished in 6 hours and arrived around 12:15. I was lucky to have company of other pilgrims to chat with. I never felt alone or stranded.

I was also lucky to have a reservation at roncesvalles but many others werent. Everyone in the waiting room was shivering and panicking about getting a room. The anxiety was palpable. I talked to some folks who said they arrived around 2PM and still got a room, but I’m sure many were tuned away. On a day like today that would be really hard to deal with.

I got my room, took the best shower of my life and had wine and dinner with some people from the albergue.

I spoke with someone who did Nápolean. He showed me pictures and wow, I am glad I didn’t go that route. There was a good amount of snow on the ground and visibility looked very limited.

It’s crazy because the day before yesterday it was beautiful and almost too hot! It shows how quickly the weather can change.

That’s that! I am still having trouble sleeping and having some anxiety due to luggage and SIM card logistics. That’s the worst part. The rest has been quite the satisfying challenge! Plus the scenery on Valcarlos was seriously beautiful, despite the drizzle.

You have this, tomorrow is another day..thanks for the brief, enjoyable. We start in Sept..making lists of vegetarian choices prior to starting..sort of dirty vegetarian, just dont eat red meat..dont think there will be issues..will take what we can find.

 

[garlicbread]

You have this, tomorrow is another day..thanks for the brief, enjoyable. We start in Sept..making lists of vegetarian choices prior to starting..sort of dirty vegetarian, just dont eat red meat..dont think there will be issues..will take what we can find.

Good idea, I’m vegetarian and struggling. Not a lot of protein options except cheese and eggs.

 

[CWBuff]

It is harder for vegetarians no doubt but you will figure it out while walking
Some menus del dia and Peregrinos do offer some non meat dishes; pasta being most often
You also might have to rely more heavily on stores and supermarkets to carry your own provisions but all in all you will be OK!

 

[VNwalking]

Point I am trying to make is that even if
Ibanetta Pass and Roncesvalles and hence the route known now as Valcarlos were used by him and his troops it does NOT make it "the original way".

Valcarlos is clearly an ancient route, predating the pilgrimage to Santiago.
The Napoleon route is what's mentioned in the Codex.
But really, who knows?

We can speculate forever.
Now many people perceive the Napoleon route as The Camino, and Valcarlos as a poor second alternate. That's our reality, whatever the history really was.

I’m vegetarian and struggling. Not a lot of protein options except cheese and egeggs.

True. Especially for vegans.

You've probably figured out that you're best off avoiding pilgrim's menus (french fries are not protein ). Menus del dia are usually better.

Search here on the Forum for threads about vegetarian places to eat - there are lots of threads about that.

And go to a tienda and get nuts or seeds and cheese - for snacks along the way and to spike salads with a bit of protein.
Buen camino, peregrina!

 

[CalgaryLynn]

You have this, tomorrow is another day..thanks for the brief, enjoyable. We start in Sept..making lists of vegetarian choices prior to starting..sort of dirty vegetarian, just dont eat red meat..dont think there will be issues..will take what we can find.

I was amazed by how difficult it was to get vegetables, especially in Spain. They eat carbohydrates and meat and seafood (some of which I wouldn't eat like octopus, squid and other). Vegetables are hard to come by, I was happy to get back home to my daily allotments of veggies. I still don't really understand why.

 

[VNwalking]

I still don't really understand why.

Because you're not eating home-cooked food, that's partly why. Go to any market and you will see loads of wonderful veggies.

These photos are from Santiago relatively early in the morning, before all the shops were open:

 

[J Willhaus]

My experience is that there were more fruit and vegetable stores than regular supermarkets.

For vegetarian protein there are jars of beans, hummus, and even peanut butter (look in the child snack section) in the supermarkets.

I agree that the pilgrim menu can get quite tiresome.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

There have been so many additional fruit and veggie items in the larger grocery stores the past few years, too. I also notice more condiments and mayonnaise type options, such as one of my favorites...aoli. It's all I can do to keep my hands off the stuff!

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

I was amazed by how difficult it was to get vegetables, especially in Spain. They eat carbohydrates and meat and seafood (some of which I wouldn't eat like octopus, squid and other). Vegetables are hard to come by, I was happy to get back home to my daily allotments of veggies. I still don't really understand why.

I suspect it's because vegetables--right or wrong--are considered "poor people's food." During the dictatorship years, the division between poor and rich was very stark, and the poor had little access to protein other than eggs and dairy.

The legacy from those hard years is a strong preference for animal protein, with vegetables just as garnishes.

I've seen this first-hand in Portugal and imagine Spain is the same.

 

[CalgaryLynn]

I suspect it's because vegetables--right or wrong--are considered "poor people's food." During the dictatorship years, the division between poor and rich was very stark, and the poor had little access to protein other than eggs and dairy.

The legacy from those hard years is a strong preference for animal protein, with vegetables just as garnishes.

I've seen this first-hand in Portugal and imagine Spain is the same.

That makes sense!