I walked November/December 2019. We had high winds from Pamplona to Logroño. But blue skies, rain to Burgos.
Winds, rain and cold on the Meseta. Rain cold and snow in After Leon and into Galicia. When we woke up in Astorga we were told that Rabanal was closed and they bussed people back the night before to Astorga as the Albergue was full. The police in Rabanal told pilgrims is they tried to continue to Cruz de Ferro they would not send a rescue party if they had trouble. Lots of people got sick. I had Bronchial Spasms. Had to go twice to clinics for oxygen and had an inhaler, and knew at
Least 4 pilgrims that went home due to illness.
Still I loved it. Would go again in an instant. It is overall a little different type of pilgrim in my experience. A little more independent I think. But because there are less albergues and often weather dictated distance I saw a lot of the same pilgrims. About a week in I spoke to an owner of a private albergue and she told me she had more pilgrims the first week of November than the entire month in 2018. So I bet when we can walk again there will still be an uptick in pilgrims. I would recommend to call ahead to make sure albergues are open. Who knows how many albergues may have closed permanently. I checked Gronze and also downloaded
Wise Pilgrim and Buen Camino apps. Just to have a more complete list of albergues. I never really had a problem except twice when I just had to walk a few k further because the alberguesin a village were closed. None of these sites were more than about 60% accurate when it came to whether an albergue was open or closed. Again I would still do a winter Camino again without hesitation.
Plenty of solitude plenty of wonderful pilgrims and I came home with plenty of memories and smiles.