LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino Ingles

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi all,
I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Ooops, here's the map. Places we visited are circled.

 

[Tincatinker]

Hey Chrissy, this was our view from the Torre just the other day

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hey Chrissy, this was our view from the Torre just the other day View attachment 178680

Well, a bummer. Your good news was at least the admission is cheap.
We didn't have a good opportunity to check out your favorite bars by the train station. After walking around all day I was too tired to go back to the train station area. Tomorrow we hoof it to the bus station.

 

[VNwalking]

Ah, too late to recommend a visit to one of Spain's most venerable trees, the Pohutukawa at the police station, brought here from NZ perhaps as early as the 1500s.

 

[Tincatinker]

Well, a bummer. Your good news was at least the admission is cheap.
We didn't have a good opportunity to check out your favorite bars by the train station. After walking around all day I was too tired to go back to the train station area. Tomorrow we hoof it to the bus station.

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

I'll look it up on google in the morning and see what can be done about that!

I just googled and it is nearly at the bus station, and open on Sunday at 9:00am, so it should work to stop in..

 

[naplesdon]

Love that town and the food in the old town.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

We are at the bus station and I had a takeaway cafe con leche, and this interesting morsel of goodness...yum and only €2:30 for both. I'd not noticed them anywhere else in A Coruna, but I am often oblivious.

 

[Kirkie]

Try to book into Camino Real albergue in Siguiero. The first and enduring impression was welcome, and generosity. The husband of the lady recognised as hospitalera in my searching is a musician. He has a piano accordion. See if he will play for you!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Sounds lovely, but our arrangements have been made in advance. Possibly we can stop in if we have time nd ask for the musician to play.

 

[CamisMors]

Hi Chrissy

I’m looking forward to following your updates from the Camino Inglés. I’ll be walking it next week as well, starting on the 8th. I am a bit concerned about the weather—it doesn’t look too promising from the forecast, but hopefully it won’t be too bad. Maybe our paths will cross along the way.

Wishing you a Buen Camino!

 

[naplesdon]

We are at the bus station and I had a takeaway cafe con leche, and this interesting morsel of goodness...yum and only €2:30 for both. I'd not noticed them anywhere else in A Coruna, but I am often oblivious.
View attachment 178705

A chicken empanada of sorts

 

[Peter J Martin]

I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!
View attachment 178669View attachment 178670View attachment 178671View attachment 178672View attachment 178673View attachment 178674View attachment 178675View attachment 178676View attachment 178677View attachment 178678

The world's oldest operational light house is Hook Head in County Wexford, Ireland. A search on Wikipedia will confirm this. It is in my home county.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Tincatinker, I'd forgotten to say earlier, but the gal who waited on me for the takeaway cafe con leche and snack this morning had no idea about any sello available. You must have an "in" with the owner who was not there.

 

[Blister Bill]

Ah, too late to recommend a visit to one of Spain's most venerable trees, the Pohutukawa at the police station, brought here from NZ perhaps as early as the 1500s.

The trees were in full bloom when visiting in August. They are literally everywhere. The significance of 1500 may be lost for a country officially discovered by the Dutch in 1642!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

The trees were in full bloom when visiting in August. They are literally everywhere. The significance of 1500 may be lost for a country officially discovered by the Dutch in 1642!

This link might be of interest:

Spanish pohutukawa fuels 'first voyage' debate - NZ Herald

Latest breaking news articles, photos, video, blogs, reviews, analysis, opinion and reader comment from New Zealand and around the World - NZ Herald

www.nzherald.co.nz

Edited to add: there is of course the Old Spanish conquistador helmet in I think Te Papa (museum ), plus an old shipwreck, both of which supposedly predate Able Tasman. A New Zealander did travel to A Corona and attempt to date the tree, but unsurprisingly the local officials would not let him make an invasive test.

 

[Tincatinker]

this interesting morsel of goodness

Yummy aren’t they

@Tincatinker, I'd forgotten to say earlier, but the gal who waited on me for the takeaway cafe con leche and snack this morning had no idea about any sello available. You must have an "in" with the owner who was not there.

Oh well, in Spain every business has a stamp. Some very boring, some very.... Their sello was one of their empanadilla arranged as a smile with two smiley eyes above. I can't find the relevant credencial to photograph and post without ruining dinner

 

[mattythedog]

Hi all,
I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!
View attachment 178669View attachment 178670View attachment 178671View attachment 178672View attachment 178673View attachment 178674View attachment 178675View attachment 178676View attachment 178677View attachment 178678

Fantastic post, Chrissy!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

CAMINO INGLES
Day 1-
We arrived in FERROL in mid afternoon yesterday by bus from A Coruna. While waiting for our hotel check in time we dropped off our backpacks and headed out for lunch, raciones and a drink.

We really wanted to visit the Naval Museum as it looked amazing in online pictures, but on Sunday it closes at 1:30pm...darn! The naval shipyard and military arsenal in Ferrol encompasses a huge amount of property along the water and was massive and and very impressive.

We wandered around some of the streets and sidewalks, lined up perfectly with nice vehicles, and they had absolutely no trash of any kind!
We also walked over to where this Camino begins, but it was closed until 5pm and a distance from our hotel, so we didn't go back again.

Day 2-
Today we left at 7:30am and began walking to Ponteduema. I wasn't sure I'd commit to getting a Compostela in Santiago, but decided to collect two sellos per day just in case.

We shortened the day some by walking on a bridge across the water instead of going all the way around on the Camino as Gronze showed two bridges as alternatives and we took the shorter bridge. For anyone interested to know, there is a safe six foot wide walkway across and is protected from traffic.

We got started on the bridge when a high wind kicked up and we looked off in the sky to our right and a dark area of clouds seemed to be heading our way. Yep, we soon got pelted with torrential rain and wind for about 15 minutes and I was hardly able to stand up as we slowly made our way across. It ripped my son's pack cover off and we ended up like drowned rats! Too bad we didn't put on our rain pants this morning as the rain inched its way up under my rain jacket and even my "derriere" got wet. It felt good to walk city streets for awhile as the storm softened. A couple of hours later the sun came out to blue skies so we found a spot to make our picnic lunch...at a covered bus stop that was dry.

The terrain became lovely as we entered the woods and hills, and all the foliage glistened after the earlier downpour.bThankfully, as we arrived at our lodging in Ponteduema at 2:30, we were nearly dried out, minus our shoes and socks.

In all of my numerous and varied Caminos, this bridge crossing "adventure" had the worst rain I've experienced; all out in the open with no buffer of any kind. My second worse was walking out of Castrojerez on the Meseta in early May 2017; two memories not to be forgotten.

Tomorrow is a new day and weather predictions call for more rain.




Here it comes!



Bad boys.


You never knew it had rained.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
This day of 20km was supposed to be windy and rainy, but we lucked out with only a few moments of drizzle and I never needed my rain jacket. That was a good thing as short sleeves and my loose fitting leggings were a good combination on this coolish day.

The walk was really great overall, with the usual ups and downs in the 20km from Ponteduema to Betanzos. It was mostly on small backroads which I personally don't mind. The eucalyptus forests were quite nice with golden color ferns in their fall brightness as a carpet.

We played "tag" with nearly twenty walkers today, but it seemed none were from the US. Most were Spanish, a few Asians, and two women from England. It seemed a majority were using pack transport and seemed to walk in groups of about five each, so possibly they were part of tour groups.

I enjoy taking pictures of colorful flowers and always find quite a few opportunities, even in the fall season.

Some may find this odd, but I am always amazed at the humongous concrete bridges that have been built spanning valleys, gorges and rivers an estuaries. I always take pictures from different angles as I pass underneath. I have ridden in cars overhead numerous times over the years, but until you walk step by step underneath them, it is impossible to appreciate the engineering feat that goes into the mass of concrete it takes to build them. I usually take it all for granted.

We passed by an old cemetery heading into Betanzos, which reminded me of the "picturesque" one in Logrono, and also saw a couple of churches that were open.

We are settled into a lovely Airbnb for the night and self-catered having pizza, shrimp, and a bottle of cold vino blanco as we have a full kitchen here.

Tomorrow is supposed to be extremely windy and rainy, so we will see how that plays out as we head to Presedo. We sre staying at a private lodging since I am a slow walker, and did not want to assume we'd get the few beds available in the non-reservable albergue; the only other option around.

 

[chinacat]

Take care today, Chrissy ..
That wind and rain is the remains of the hurricane which ate parts of the US south-east: Helene, I think it was called.

Buen Camino, hope you remember to wear your waterproof trousers!
Don’t get blown away

Edit: It might be hurricane Kirk … sorry!

 

[Kirkie]

Day 3-
This day of 20km was supposed to be windy and rainy, but we lucked out with only a few moments of drizzle and I never needed my rain jacket. That was a good thing as short sleeves and my loose fitting leggings were a good combination on this coolish day.

The walk was really great overall, with the usual ups and downs in the 20km from Ponteduema to Betanzos. It was mostly on small backroads which I personally don't mind. The eucalyptus forests were quite nice with golden color ferns in their fall brightness as a carpet.

We played "tag" with nearly twenty walkers today, but it seemed none were from the US. Most were Spanish, a few Asians, and two women from England. It seemed a majority were using pack transport and seemed to walk in groups of about five each, so possibly they were part of tour groups.

I enjoy taking pictures of colorful flowers and always find quite a few opportunities, even in the fall season.

Some may find this odd, but I am always amazed at the humongous concrete bridges that have been built spanning valleys, gorges and rivers an estuaries. I always take pictures from different angles as I pass underneath. I have ridden in cars overhead numerous times over the years, but until you walk step by step underneath them, it is impossible to appreciate the engineering feat that goes into the mass of concrete it takes to build them. I usually take it all for granted.

We passed by an old cemetery heading into Betanzos, which reminded me of the "picturesque" one in Logrono, and also saw a couple of churches that were open.

We are settled into a lovely Airbnb for the night and self-catered having pizza, shrimp, and a bottle of cold vino blanco as we have a full kitchen here.

Tomorrow is supposed to be extremely windy and rainy, so we will see how that plays out as we head to Presedo. We sre staying at a private lodging since I am a slow walker, and did not want to assume we'd get the few beds available in the non-reservable albergue; the only other option around.
View attachment 178834View attachment 178835View attachment 178836View attachment 178837View attachment 178838View attachment 178839
View attachment 178840View attachment 178841View attachment 178842View attachment 178843

I know that bridge, Chris! Like you, we reserved, the whole way, as I would not have relished sleeping outside, and all the young people were galloping along way ahead! Stay safe.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I had similar thoughts (and took similar photos) when passing under the Motorway.
A shame about the weather, but still, better to be walking than not.

 

[Abigel]

Hi Chrissy, thanks for the live updates. I'll be starting the Camino Inglés on Sunday (hopefully Hurricane Kirk will not do much damage) and I was wondering if bringing my trekking poles would be worth it. What's your experience so far? Also, I'll be walking alone, I was hoping for some silent walking meditation. Based on your posts, I may see a few people, so won't be completely alone, but walking in silence would be possible, correct?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Chrissy, thanks for the live updates. I'll be starting the Camino Inglés on Sunday (hopefully Hurricane Kirk will not do much damage) and I was wondering if bringing my trekking poles would be worth it. What's your experience so far? Also, I'll be walking alone, I was hoping for some silent walking meditation. Based on your posts, I may see a few people, so won't be completely alone, but walking in silence would be possible, correct?

I have always only used one trekking pole, so can not give an opinion for using two. So far the Ingles seems to be on quaint country roads without cars, but there is some climbing, both up and down.
I think you will be able to walk in silence if you choose as many seem to be walking in small groups or clusters or with a partner. I think it will not be difficult to be on your own if you prefer. Not sure what lodging style you want, but if you stay in the albergues, you will "rub shoulders" in some conversations with other walkers.
I hope all the recent rain will turn into some sunshine for you!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
We had light rain on our walk the whole way from Betanzos to Presedo, but the windy spots were barely enough to bother mentioning. I was thankful, especially as we were able to make good use of our lightweight, 4 oz. umbrellas.
We walked through many eucalyptus forests and they actually look more attractive when wet, as their bark turns a deep golden color when wet. The past several days we have seen literally thousands of chestnuts all over the ground.

The highlight of the day was our destination at our lodging at a 1000 year old beautifully renovated monastery filled with antiques and artwork. The building is owned by the Church, but leased to a couple for the past 24 years and also has a restaurant of fine dining, which was excellent. The whole property is filled with antiques, artwork, and sitting spaces.

The ancient church is next door. I googled, but didn't get much information.



"Rectoral de Cines" Monastery lodging.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

(continued)-
The 1000 year old church.
I took a picture through the keyhole. You can see quite abit in full size

 

[Abigel]

I have always only used one trekking pole, so can not give an opinion for using two. So far the Ingles seems to be on quaint country roads without cars, but there is some climbing, both up and down.
I think you will be able to walk in silence if you choose as many seem to be walking in small groups or clusters or with a partner. I think it will not be difficult to be on your own if you prefer. Not sure what lodging style you want, but if you stay in the albergues, you will "rub shoulders" in some conversations with other walkers.
I hope all the recent rain will turn into some sunshine for you!

Thanks, Chrissy, this is very useful. I reserved ahead, so lodging won't be an issue. Your descriptions are helpful for preparation - I just added my umbrella as well after today's post.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks, Chrissy, this is very useful. I reserved ahead, so lodging won't be an issue. Your descriptions are helpful for preparation - I just added my umbrella as well after today's post.

Here is the ultralite umbrellas we are using. They are only 4 oz. and I can hold it up all day without any arm fatigue and change the angle I hold it. It often saves taking rain gear on and off in drizzle or light rains, and has kept me cooler.
G4Free Travel Umbrella Compact Ultralight UPF 50+ UV Protection Umbrella Carbon Fiber Super Slim Small Mini Sun Umbrellas https://a.co/d/c04o6Uw

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5- Today we walked the other half of a long stage we had divided and are staying tonight in Bruma, where the Ingles meets up with those who started in A Coruna. Truth be told, this was not a day of particularly awesome views or any quaint villages, but it was partly sunny all day long, so still a good day and my shoes stayed dry!

We passed by a mink farm, and noticed them jumping around in their cages in the mesh screens of low, long rows of buildings, and the odor was not pleasant.
Next we had to walk along a busy road for awhile which passed by an industrial electrical complex of huge metal erector towers that all converged in this one place.
We later passed workers cleaning up and dealing with huge trucks of eucalyptus waste of wet muck and roots from all the recent rains...what a job!
The highlight and most interesting thing today for me was seeing several older men wearing rubber waterproof trousers, using hiking sticks, and each had two to four dogs that looked like small Beagles. They were so cute, never barked, and were friendly. I assume possibly they were out truffle hunting or boar hunting. I tried chatting with the men to find out, but unfortunately charades didn't work. Maybe @Tincatinker may know as he had walked only a few days ahead of me.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Is that what that farm was - I did wonder. Didn't see any animals, perhaps they'd recently culled when I went past.

Yes that electrical substation is pretty large.

You don't mention stopping at Casa Avelina? It was shortly before the substation.
Not that I did either, but in my defence when I went past it was overflowing out onto the road ( Semana Santa)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Is that what that farm was - I did wonder. Didn't see any animals, perhaps they'd recently culled when I went past.

Yes that electrical substation is pretty large.

You don't mention stopping at Casa Avelina? It was shortly before the substation.
Not that I did either, but in my defence when I went past it was overflowing out onto the road ( Semana Santa)

Yes, we passed Casa Avelina, but had just eaten our picnic lunch half a block prior on dry granite benches and didn't know it was around the corner until we'd eaten and walked past it. Yes, we could see it was quite busy; we were "too little, too late".

 

[Kirkie]

Yes, we passed Casa Avelina, but had just eaten our picnic lunch half a block prior on dry granite benches and didn't know it was around the corner until we'd eaten and walked past it. Yes, we could see it was quite busy; we were "too little, too late".

You just have to back track, Chris! . It is quite the experience. We went on a day of unrelenting rain. We dripped in. Along with many others. I do not quite get it, but one of the two sisters who runs the place is indefatigable in her service of the pilgrim population. I guess the other one is also, but the stronger impression came from just one of them. I cannot say enough about my gratitude for the care and attention we received there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Such a shame we didn't know about Casa Avelina ahead of time, as it seems apparently many others knew. I guess we didn't do enough prior research!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Here is the ultralite umbrellas we are using. They are only 4 oz. and I can hold it up all day without any arm fatigue and change the angle I hold it. It often saves taking rain gear on and off in drizzle or light rains, and has kept me cooler.
G4Free Travel Umbrella Compact Ultralight UPF 50+ UV Protection Umbrella Carbon Fiber Super Slim Small Mini Sun Umbrellas https://a.co/d/c04o6Uw

Thanks for the umbrella info Chrissy ️
I've had a few frustrating experiences with travel umbrellas...lightweight they may be but they can also be lightweights in performance! My main complaint is they buckle or turn inside out with the very slightest of breezes...even a car going past is enough to flip it.
I over-compensated for this annoyance by buying 2 different sized Blunt umbrellas; brilliant even in Tassie's windy conditons but weighty so not good for travelling.
How does yours stack up in a breeze? I note you've mentioned a few times not using it for that reason but how much can it take? Would it pass the 'car-going-past' test?
Continued Happy Trails...your energy shines through regardless of what the path has presented to you!

 

[Robo]

Here is the ultralite umbrellas we are using. They are only 4 oz. and I can hold it up all day without any arm fatigue and change the angle I hold it. It often saves taking rain gear on and off in drizzle or light rains, and has kept me cooler.
G4Free Travel Umbrella Compact Ultralight UPF 50+ UV Protection Umbrella Carbon Fiber Super Slim Small Mini Sun Umbrellas https://a.co/d/c04o6Uw

Those look good.
If the handles are long enough, a couple of velcro cable ties on your shoulder straps would make them hands fee. (and tuck the handle under the sternum strap)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

How does yours stack up in a breeze? I note you've mentioned a few times not using it for that reason but how much can it take? Would it pass the 'car-going-past' test?

Well, how fast is that car going, Kaz?
I have used several umbrellas in the past on Camino and always prefer having one to not having one. I have had them all go inside out in higher winds, but this one has bounced back a few times and has not broken like some do.
I do not prefer to use one on a sternum strap as there is no real control except on a total windless day. I often have leaned one on my shoulder and back of my pack, but this one is so lightweight that I do not usually bother due to the carbon fiber pole and tiny little handle.
Is it a miracle umbrella?...probably not. Only Mary Poppins has one of those.

 

[chinacat]

What a mess on those tracks!

Nice to see you had some sun though

Wishing you an easy day today!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6-
We had another short day of only 11km and it feels like we will be practically sauntering into Santiago the day after tomorrow with a 13km and then a final 16km to finish the Ingles.

The majority of the day was in clouds (as usual), and we somehow missed the misty rain that seemed to hang on the low mountains along the perimeters of where we were walking.The bits of sunshine that occasionally peeked out felt like a whole new day before teasing us as it quickly disappeared again.

It was an easy walk from Bruma without much change in elevation on mostly quaint backroads. We walked through a few nondescript villages, some nice forests, and finally saw a few horrios before ending our day in Ordes.

Our modest hotel room tonight has two humongous windows with a nice view overlooking a small park.
I have nothing more to report on today, so will let my pictures speak for themselves.

 

[1man2dogs]

Day 4-
We had light rain on our walk the whole way from Betanzos to Presedo, but the windy spots were barely enough to bother mentioning. I was thankful, especially as we were able to make good use of our lightweight, 4 oz. umbrellas.
We walked through many eucalyptus forests and they actually look more attractive when wet, as their bark turns a deep golden color when wet. The past several days we have seen literally thousands of chestnuts all over the ground.

The highlight of the day was our destination at our lodging at a 1000 year old beautifully renovated monastery filled with antiques and artwork. The building is owned by the Church, but leased to a couple for the past 24 years and also has a restaurant of fine dining, which was excellent. The whole property is filled with antiques, artwork, and sitting spaces.

The ancient church is next door. I googled, but didn't get much information.
View attachment 178879View attachment 178880
View attachment 178881View attachment 178882View attachment 178883

"Rectoral de Cines" Monastery lodging.
View attachment 178884View attachment 178885View attachment 178886
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I stayed at Rectoral de Cines last year when I did the Ingles and it was amazing.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7-
It was raining when I woke up at 6:00am, but when we left our hotel at 8:30 the rain was gone and sun broke through and we had blue skies all day. What a nice change it was and lifted my spirits more than I expected.

We walked a whopping 13+ km on mostly small quiet roads and wide trails after leaving Ordes; going through some beautiful forests void of eucalyptus trees. I enjoyed the change of having other deciduous varieties, stepping on more than our share of acorns and chestnuts. The trail had some relatively easy ups and downs and we passed quite a few corn fields with patches laying down flat. I assume it's from last Wednesday's storms with very high winds.

Over a score of bicyclists passed us on the trail today, pedaling fast in a hurry in small groups. They had physical maps attached to their handle bars as they whizzed by and we finally figured out they were part of a scavenger hunt. Well, it is Saturday and also a Spanish holiday today.

There were not many vistas to be seen today, and the final several kilometers into Sigueiro were on a path parallel to a noisy interstate highway, but thankfully it was hidden from our view with shrubs along the fence. All in all, with the sun shining, it was a lovely day on the Camino.




My dinner tonight. Grilled chiperones, potatoes, and salad.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

My dinner tonight. Grilled chiperones, potatoes, and salad.
View attachment 179029

One day to go Chrissy!...feeling relieved, excited or a little sad another trail is over?
Also what is a chiperone? I always assumed it was a potato dish (I am a bit of a chip-head myself...). I could google it rather than show my ignorance but others may not know either.
Missing the 'fat finger' photo from this post; I personally like accom pics...shows standards, facilities, etc.
Happy trails as you saunter in to our beloved Santiago again...safely of course!

 

[Kirkie]

Fat finger? I did look it up. None the wiser.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

One day to go Chrissy!...feeling relieved, excited or a little sad another trail is over?

Well, Kaz, I'm feeling a bit of all three!
I spelled chiperone wrong, it is chipirone and they are small squid and served with the whole body which is usually 2-3" long and includes the squiggly little legs. Mine were served grilled, but I like them deep fried in a light batter, too.
Calamare are larger squid cut and served in rings, then deep fried. I like those, too.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Fat finger? I did look it up. None the wiser.

It's just a little expression for a typo.

 

[Tincatinker]

Hmm, Chip-irones and chips. Now that is a lunch!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hmm, Chip-irones and chips. Now that is a lunch!

I had mine served with boiled potatoes...are they still called "chips"? Chipirones and French fries are a bit too much for me in one meal.

 

[Tincatinker]

Nah, not chips, thems Patatas gallegas. They’re special

 

[Tincatinker]

So, one for @SabsP maybe. When did the chip, become a French Fry, and why?

Duff up a potato, stick it in hot fat, wait a bit, eat.

Even the Peruvians were at it while we were ignorant of the perfect vegetable. So how come the French got to claim the chip?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Actually that's one for me. As usual you can blame the Americans for messing up - in this case, countries.
American soldiers were based in Belgian during the (First World) war and were served Pommes frites. Supposedly, and s the language of the Belgian army is French the Americans called them 'french fries'

Edited to add: except you already knew that which is why you suggested @SabsP right? Guess I fell right into that one

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Well, Kaz, I'm feeling a bit of all three!
I spelled chiperone wrong, it is chipirone and they are small squid and served with the whole body which is usually 2-3" long and includes the squiggly little legs. Mine were served grilled, but I like them deep fried in a light batter, too.
Calamare are larger squid cut and served in rings, then deep fried. I like those, too.

Thanks for the explanation Chrissy...I now know why I hadn't encountered chipirones before...I'm allergic to seafood!

Chips for some of us (Aussies, Brits, Kiwis & no doubt others) are fries to you.
We (Aussies @ least) complicate things further by calling the packaged potato snack food chips as well. The Brits call them 'crisps' to differentiate but not us!
The joys of these small cultural & language differences...love it!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Fat finger? I did look it up. None the wiser.

It's just a little expression for a typo.

@Kirkie 'fat finger' basically comes from a little boo-boo caused by our big fingers on tiny keyboards
Chrissy shares her journeys in another format...in this case, she attached a photo unintentionally & couldn't delete it referring to it as 'fat finger'...which she actually doesn't have, she's a slender lady!

 

[cjhikes]

Day 6-
We had another short day of only 11km and it feels like we will be practically sauntering into Santiago the day after tomorrow with a 13km and then a final 16km to finish the Ingles.

The majority of the day was in clouds (as usual), and we somehow missed the misty rain that seemed to hang on the low mountains along the perimeters of where we were walking.The bits of sunshine that occasionally peeked out felt like a whole new day before teasing us as it quickly disappeared again.

It was an easy walk from Bruma without much change in elevation on mostly quaint backroads. We walked through a few nondescript villages, some nice forests, and finally saw a few horrios before ending our day in Ordes.

Our modest hotel room tonight has two humongous windows with a nice view overlooking a small park.
I have nothing more to report on today, so will let my pictures speak for themselves.

View attachment 178964View attachment 178965View attachment 178966View attachment 178967View attachment 178968View attachment 178969View attachment 178970View attachment 178971View attachment 178972

wondering where you stayed in Bruma and Ordes?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

wondering where you stayed in Bruma and Ordes?

In Bruma I stayed at "Meson Novo" a bit off trail, and in Ordes at "Hotel Alda Camino Ingles". It too was a bit off trail, but neither were difficult to get back and it was a short day so walking a little extra was not hard.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8-
We left our little apartment this morning in glorious sunshine and the sky stayed blue all day. The 16km walk to Santiago had us on some quaint and quiet country roads, but also included really great forest paths with sun peeking in on the shaded trails, which made for nice contrast.

I'd read about the industrial area around the last 4-5km from the city, but being a Sunday there was no work being done, so all was quiet. Shortly after, we passed and I stepped in to see the largest above ground cemetery I have ever seen.

When we arrived in Santiago the cathedral square was buzzing with tired, but happy pilgrims as it always is. The excitement and enthusiasm of accomplishment fills the air with an energy all its own. Only in Santiago have I witnessed this heady elation in so many people at the same time...it is special indeed. I took my credential over to the pilgrim office and waited less than ten minutes to receive my Compostela.
This is the first time I have spent only one quick afternoon and evening here in the city as we leave early tomorrow morning taking a train to Segovia for another day before going on home.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

That Autumn light is just amazing.
As always, thanks for posting, and letting us follow along.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Congratulations on the successful completion of another journey & especially for your safe arrival Chrissy!
"The sorry relief of arrival"
Gideon Lewis-Kraus
Yes, there is no feeling like that which eminates/radiates from the Cathedral plaza.
How did you find it having walked a less trodden path? It was a strange sensation for me; I was clearly a walker but as the vast majority of arrivals did the CF, I encountered quizzical looks as people tried to figure out who I was & did they know me from the trail?
Enjoy your brief & well earned rest before heading home.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

So, one for @SabsP maybe. When did the chip, become a French Fry, and why?

I've read that french fries came from something like frenched fried potatoes (somewhat like ice cream came from iced cream).


Edit: I've also read that potato chips came about by an ignorant cook who frenched the potatoes incorrectly.

 

[naplesdon]

Chiperone, grilled with a dusting of Piment d'Espelette is a Basque staple.

 

[dougfitz]

Edit: I've also read that potato chips came about by an ignorant cook who frenched the potatoes incorrectly.

I had never heard of frenching vegetables before, but now I know better.

 

[dougfitz]

@Camino Chrissy, thank you for sharing your journey. I have enjoyed following along, and reliving it through your photos.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I've read that french fries came from something like frenched fried potatoes (somewhat like ice cream came from iced cream).
View attachment 179093

Edit: I've also read that potato chips came about by an ignorant cook who frenched the potatoes incorrectly.

That's really interesting to find out, Rick. I wonder if the French will agree.

Chiperone, grilled with a dusting of Piment d'Espelette is a Basque staple.

Don, I will have to look that one up.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Congratulations on the successful completion of another journey & especially for your safe arrival Chrissy!
"The sorry relief of arrival"
Gideon Lewis-Kraus
Yes, there is no feeling like that which eminates/radiates from the Cathedral plaza.
How did you find it having walked a less trodden path? It was a strange sensation for me; I was clearly a walker but as the vast majority of arrivals did the CF, I encountered quizzical looks as people tried to figure out who I was & did they know me from the trail?
Enjoy your brief & well earned rest before heading home.

Kaz, I loved the quote; nearly an oxymoron.
I love your description of "eminates/radiates".
I don't really get quizzical looks, but this time I almost felt like a bit of an outsider, maybe because I've been so many times and I can count on one hand the brief chats I have had with anyone who speaks English on both the Invierno and Ingles caminos.

 

[jungleboy]

Isn't it magical to walk into Santiago under sunshine and blue skies? We had the same for the last day of our Inglés last year.

Congratulations on finishing (yet) another camino!

 

[Pilgrim 122]

How wonderful it is to arrive in Santiago and be part of that joyful crowd!
Well done Chrissy for completing this camino and thank you, as always, for sharing your journey with us.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Patricia, you will soon be finishing Vasco/Viejo and stitched Camino you are doing. Safe travels back to home to you in just a few more days.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Thanks Chrissy, enjoy the rest of your time in Spain and safe travels home for you and your son.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Kaz, I loved the quote; nearly an oxymoron.
I love your description of "eminates/radiates".
I don't really get quizzical looks, but this time I almost felt like a bit of an outsider, maybe because I've been so many times and I can count on one hand the brief chats I have had with anyone who speaks English on both the Invierno and Ingles caminos.

After being on the Portuguese and the Frances, I too was surprised at how few English-speakers there were on the Ingles, and the irony of that. We met only 1 American and 1 Brit for whom English was their native language, and a few Swedes who spoke it fluently, but that’s all. Still, those were the people we kept bumping into during the day and a half we had in Santiago, so I didn’t feel “separate” from other pilgrims - my posse was there.

 

[chinacat]

Congratulations Chrissy!!

Wishing you a safe and uneventful journey and a happy homecoming

 

[Abigel]

Congratulations, Chrissy, and thank you! I have more English speaking people around me than I expected based on your thread, and also German. But I really like that I can be walking in silence as I don't understand most people around me. That's a plus!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have arrived home today from my combo Caminos and want to mention that these new collapsible hiking poles were great and they made it back home with me safely today; no questions asked at either airport.

Post in thread '"I'm off again!"...' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/im-off-again.88996/post-1295096

 

[Abigel]

Chrissy, I'll be walking into Santiago tomorrow...your posts were so accurate! And now I understand you breaking up the days into 2...the kilometers are many more than officially indicated. The app I use is accurate (I regularly use it at home) and both yesterday's and today's supposedly 24 kilometers ended up being 32. I managed but it's different if you are expecting 24 and need to walk 8 more...even when you are younger and a fast walker.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy, I'll be walking into Santiago tomorrow...your posts were so accurate! And now I understand you breaking up the days into 2...the kilometers are many more than officially indicated. The app I use is accurate (I regularly use it at home) and both yesterday's and today's supposedly 24 kilometers ended up being 32. I managed but it's different if you are expecting 24 and need to walk 8 more...even when you are younger and a fast walker.

Thank you for saying that you related to my posts and they seemed accurate. I made the decision the last couple of years when planning ahead that "less can be sometimes more" for me...different strokes for different folks.

 

[naplesdon]

Well, Kaz, I'm feeling a bit of all three!
I spelled chiperone wrong, it is chipirone and they are small squid and served with the whole body which is usually 2-3" long and includes the squiggly little legs. Mine were served grilled, but I like them deep fried in a light batter, too.
Calamare are larger squid cut and served in rings, then deep fried. I like those, too.

Chiperone, grilled with a dusting of Piment d'Espelette. Pure Heaven!