LIVE from the Camino BP's Olvidado July 2024: Unfinished business

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 0: Bilbao

I arrived in Bilbao today, from another Camino, to start the Camino Olvidado. I walked the Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo to Villafranca del Bierzo last year, so I will only walk from Bilbao to Aguilar de Campoo this time. That should take about a week.

If you're interested in the part of the Camino Olvidado that I did last year, you can read about it here.

I've already let the albergue in Zalla know I'm coming tomorrow: since it's new I want to check it out! It will also give me a hunch how many people are walking with me from Bilbao. Normally I must say I prefer hostales...

This evening it's all about relaxing in the old town in central Bilbao, next to the Catedral de Santiago. Tomorrow I need to walk almost 1.5 hours extra to get to the starting point of the Olvidado, at the Devil's Bridge! Bilbao is big.

Tag along if you don't have anything else to do!

 

[C clearly]

Tag along if you don't have anything else to do!

Even if we do have other things we should be doing!

 

[peregrina2000]

This evening it's all about relaxing in the old town in central Bilbao

I would love for you to take some pictures of the amazing pintxos displays that you find in nearly every bar in that entire area. Some are really works of art! Not to mention delicious.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I would love for you to take some pictures of the amazing pintxos displays that you find in nearly every bar in that entire area. Some are really works of art! Not to mention delicious.

I just had a café con leche and a dry croissant - does that count?

 

[LTfit]

According to the Camino Olvidado Facebook Page there are way more pilgrims walking ther Olvidado this year. I've seen a picture with I believe 5 or 6 at the wonderful muni run by Sonia in Puente Almuhey.

You're lucky with the new albergue in Zalla. In order to avoid staying in a hotel I walked the first day to Balmeseda.

Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

Adolfo is a true camino angel on the first part of the route. He came to Villasana de Mena to meet us when we got back from our walk out to the amazing romanesque churches (which probably don’t interest you, BP). And then he met up with us the next morning when we took a taxi back from Villasana to his town Nava de Ordunte (He has since put in a donativo albergue, which always gets high reviews). He walked with us for the morning, and I remember having a very good pan con chorizo at the bakery when we got to the place where his son (?) came to pick him up.

His phone 652 773 055 (uses Whats App).

I first walked the Olvidado in 2014. When Susanna had an injury and had to leave after the first week, I was kind of freaking out because I couldn’t figure out how to use my GPS (having relied on her and her expertise). @GunnarW was my tech angel, and Adolfo was my go-to person for everything else I needed. One of my strongest memories is how he helped me out when I was alone in Fasgar and couldn’t find Rosi.

If you stay there, will you please send him my abrazos? This photo might jog his memory!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Adolfo is a true camino angel on the first part of the route. He came to Villasana de Mena to meet us when we got back from our walk out to the amazing romanesque churches (which probably don’t interest you, BP). And then he met up with us the next morning when we took a taxi back from Villasana to his town Nava de Ordunte (He has since put in a donativo albergue, which always gets high reviews). He walked with us for the morning, and I remember having a very good pan con chorizo at the bakery when we got to the place where his son (?) came to pick him up.

His phone 652 773 055 (uses Whats App).

I first walked the Olvidado in 2014. When Susanna had an injury and had to leave after the first week, I was kind of freaking out because I couldn’t figure out how to use my GPS (having relied on her and her expertise). @GunnarW was my tech angel, and Adolfo was my go-to person for everything else I needed. One of my strongest memories is how he helped me out when I was alone in Fasgar and couldn’t find Rosi.

If you stay there, will you please send him my abrazos? This photo might jog his memory!

I'll see what I can do. I don't even know where I go tomorrow! I saw there's a choice 2A and 3A according to the maps? Maybe not going through Nava de Ordunte then? I am in Sodupe now, taking one step at a time... on the bidegorri [cycle track]!

 

[peregrina2000]

You’re right that caminoolvidado.com shows two alterntives for the two stages between Güenes and Espinosa de los Monteros. Those alternatives did not exist when I walked. We walked through Nava de Ordunte to Villasana de Mena and then took a taxi back to Villasana the next day, which is where we met Adolfo. At that time, there was a hotel in Villasana and no albergue in Nava de Ordunte.

For some reason, there are now two alternatives. Villasana de Mena and Nava de Ordunte are only 7 km apart, so I do not really understand the reason. But the main difference is where you want to spend the night after Güenes (or in your case Zalla, since there’s now an albergue) — in Villasana or in Nava de Ordunte.

Güenes - Villasana - Espinosa

Güenes - Nava de Ordunte - Espinosa

Both routes go Güenes to Balmaseda and then split off around Santecilla, with 2A going to Villasana and 2B going to Nava de Ordunte.

The two routes once again join up the next day in Ordejón de Mena. So the vast majority of both days is the same route with a little dip to get to Villasana if that’s your goal.

Vilasana is a big town (and has the fabulous circle walk to romanesque churches), but the hotel that we stayed in has closed. The guide shows two apartments for rent. Nava de Ordunte is a village where Adolfo lives and has his albergue. And there are places to eat.

Buen camino, BP! Oh that bidegorri seems to go on forever, and it is hard on the feet! But it’s a lovely walk, isn’t it?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Both routes go Güenes to Balmaseda

This is one of the few things I understood when I hastily tried to patch the different guides together while walking (!) today. So I actually ended up in Balmaseda, where I am in the albergue juvenil right now! Yes I moved swiftly on the bidegorri today so I chose not to stop in Zalla.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, BP! I'm happy to be tagging along, sort of...with none of the physical discomfort.

 

[setmeravelles]

¡Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

where I am in the albergue juvenil right now!

Oh, my, BP in an albergue juvenil usually spells trouble.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Bilbao - Balmaseda, 38 kms (+ ? kms in Bilbao)

I had to walk 1.5 hours extra in the morning to get to the Devil's Bridge where the Camino Olvidado starts. The further I went, the uglier the suburbs of Bilbao got. Everything accompanied by a foul stench that only got worse as I crossed the bridge and continued through sketchy areas with derelict factories, graffiti and overfilled trash cans. Not until I hopped on the bidegorri [cycle track] did I feel I began to leave the horrors of Bilbao behind me. Sodupe was the first pretty basque town of the day, and from there it only got better! The part between Zalla and Balmaseda was the best one, in the woods with a river. At times I was walking in luscious, green tunnels of foliage, and it looked beautiful in the afternoon light... But: today was 100 % asphalt from start to finish.



While I was walking I tried to get hold of some sort of accommodation in Balmaseda. The hotel Convento San Roque would be 89 euros *gasp*. The only other option in town, the albergue juvenil, didn't even pick up the phone. I decided to go straight to the albergue to see if I could find someone there to help me, or another number to call. Finally a guy answered. But he couldn't get there to help me as he had just come out of the dentist's after surgery! The poor soul guided me by phone, with his sore mouth, to the keys and through the building. Eventually I got inside the albergue. He told me one should generally call in advance (I think he meant at least one day). Future pilgrims: take note.

The albergue is spacious with 22 beds, but it looks like I will be here alone tonight. Fully equipped kitchen. In spite of being called an albergue juvenil the guy said it is exclusively for pilgrims (?!). 12 euros is certainly a better deal than 89 euros at the hotel. I like luxury, but I ain't that crazy!

Tomorrow is a hard stage to plan. Nava de Ordunte is too short (11 kms) and Espinosa de Montero is too long (40+ kms). In between: donativo at Isabel's place in Villasante (but she asked me to call her again tomorrow and we'll see) and Taranco (where there is a couple of places to stay that Isabel messaged me about on WhatsApp). It's complicated. Isabel seems to be a nice and helpful person anyway! Her phone number is listed in the resource with accommodation for the Olvidado that @omicko has posted. If you plan to stay at her house I suggest you ask her several days in advance (which I didn't). She lets pilgrims stay only in case she is in town.

Who knows where I'll end up tomorrow...

To be continued

 

[VNwalking]

but it looks like I will be here alone tonight.

Well, that's a blessing.
Best wishes for tomorrow. Hoping it works out as well as today!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

It's eerie to be alone in such a large building! I have already seen teenage thugs sneaking around the corner. They pretend to be sitting in a nearby house watching football, but I know it's me they are after!! I've got Guardia Civil on speed dial!

Good night!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I stay at Isabel's place tonight so I got everything sorted out. Right now in Ribota de Ordunte, where the restaurant luckily was open. I sneaked away from the reservoir to get there. I was so hungry... No breakfast ready but tarta de queso will do.

 

[MikeJS]

Day 1: Bilbao - Balmaseda, 38 kms (+ ? kms in Bilbao)

I had to walk 1.5 hours extra in the morning to get to the Devil's Bridge where the Camino Olvidado starts. The further I went, the uglier the suburbs of Bilbao got. Everything accompanied by a foul stench that only got worse as I crossed the bridge and continued through sketchy areas with derelict factories, graffiti and overfilled trash cans. Not until I hopped on the bidegorri [cycle track] did I feel I began to leave the horrors of Bilbao behind me. Sodupe was the first pretty basque town of the day, and from there it only got better! The part between Zalla and Balmaseda was the best one, in the woods with a river. At times I was walking in luscious, green tunnels of foliage, and it looked beautiful in the afternoon light... But: today was 100 % asphalt from start to finish.

View attachment 173895

While I was walking I tried to get hold of some sort of accommodation in Balmaseda. The hotel Convento San Roque would be 89 euros *gasp*. The only other option in town, the albergue juvenil, didn't even pick up the phone. I decided to go straight to the albergue to see if I could find someone there to help me, or another number to call. Finally a guy answered. But he couldn't get there to help me as he had just come out of the dentist's after surgery! The poor soul guided me by phone, with his sore mouth, to the keys and through the building. Eventually I got inside the albergue. He told me one should generally call in advance (I think he meant at least one day). Future pilgrims: take note.

The albergue is spacious with 22 beds, but it looks like I will be here alone tonight. Fully equipped kitchen. In spite of being called an albergue juvenil the guy said it is exclusively for pilgrims (?!). 12 euros is certainly a better deal than 89 euros at the hotel. I like luxury, but I ain't that crazy!

Tomorrow is a hard stage to plan. Nava de Ordunte is too short (11 kms) and Espinosa de Montero is too long (40+ kms). In between: donativo at Isabel's place in Villasante (but she asked me to call her again tomorrow and we'll see) and Taranco (where there is a couple of places to stay that Isabel messaged me about on WhatsApp). It's complicated. Isabel seems to be a nice and helpful person anyway! Her phone number is listed in the resource with accommodation for the Olvidado that @omicko has posted. If you plan to stay at her house I suggest you ask her several days in advance (which I didn't). She lets pilgrims stay only in case she is in town.

Who knows where I'll end up tomorrow...

To be continued

Wow.I paid 33 euros in Sept 19 for the Convento.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow.I paid 33 euros in Sept 19 for the Convento.

I walked in 2014 and we paid 40 something for a double room! Google suggests that’s a greater price increase than just inflation. Looking at the website, it does look to me like the hotel has had a substantial upgrade and is a much more “high end” place than it was when we walked. I also remember a fairly uninteresting meal in their dining room, and now they show all sorts of glamourous photos!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm lagging behind with my reports because of the whole situation yesterday (I was bitten by a dog) but I'll try to catch up. Now in Espinosa de Montero enjoying a second breakfast... including my new medicine. Nom nom

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I walked in 2014 and we paid 40 something for a double room! Google suggests that’s a greater price increase than just inflation. Looking at the website, it does look to me like the hotel has had a substantial upgrade and is a much more “high end” place than it was when we walked. I also remember a fairly uninteresting meal in their dining room, and now they show all sorts of glamourous photos!

I definitely told them I was a pilgrim (always trying to catch that discount) but it was still 89 euros. So yeah things must have changed. From the outside it looked really posh as well!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm lagging behind with my reports because of the whole situation yesterday (I was bitten by a dog) but I'll try to catch up. Now in Espinosa de Montero enjoying a second breakfast... including my new medicine. Nom nom

I remember that town was in fiestas when Susanna and I walked. We stayed in a cute little hotel right on the Plaza where you are sitting and enjoyed watching everything below. Music, parade, dancing, you know, the typical Spanish fiesta in the pueblo!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks to all the info provided by BP, Adolfo knows where the dogs live and will speak to the owners. I’m hopeful that the owners simply didn’t know that their dogs could get under the fence and that they will take steps to keep them on the other side of the fence. I will post updates, hopefully soon!

Where are you sleeping tonight, BP? Hope you’re feeling fine.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Balmaseda - Villasante, 39 kms (last 3 kms by car)

From Balmaseda, more asphalt in the morning. I walked on country roads until I reached the town of Nava de Ordunte. No signs of life. Since it was Saturday morning every bar and restaurant was closed, at least this early.

I continued along the asphalt and wondered if I would arrive too early to the next restaurant in Ribota de Mena. The Camino veered off towards the reservoir/lake Ordunte (the first long stretch not on tarmac since Bilbao). When I got to a road leading up to Ribota I just had to leave the Camino and the lake: I was so hungry! No breakfast, only café con leche available. But the owner must have noticed my emaciated face, shredded clothes and hollow eyes and taken pity on me. She proposed I get a dessert with the coffee. That cheesecake got me going again! I didn't walk back to the reservoir, but joined the Camino on the country road a few kms after Ribota.

Gradually more paths in the woods appeared. Some parts were overgrown, but nothing I haven't pushed through before.

And then I got to the village of Concejero. I wrote in another thread - because I wanted to alert pilgrims coming behind me - that I got bitten by a dog. Beware when you're walking through this village. This happened without me provoking the dogs so I am certain it can happen to others. The teeth went through the skin (my ankle) and there was enough blood to color my sock. But it wasn't deep. I called out "Oiga! [Hello!]" to let the owner have his fishes served warm as we say where I come from. (Meaning: I would let the miserable owner know what I thought about him and his ugly dogs). But no answer.

There was a fountain just minutes away. I washed my foot in cold water; that was the only thing I could do at the moment. I had Isabel on WhatsApp and told her what happened. She would wait for me outside Bercedo in her car and then we would decide if I needed to see a doctor. At first we both concluded that the bite wasn't that deep so she drove me to her home. She used to run an albergue; now she lets pilgrims stay at her house if she happens to be in Villasante.

I phoned a medical counselor in my country and he suggested I see a doctor anyway. I said to Isabel I could go to Espinosa de Montero and to the Centro de Salud by bus; she said she would take me there by car immediately.

When we arrived in Espinosa, 7 kms away, the health care staff (two persons) needed to go on a visit. Isabel and I had coffee at the square while waiting. When the staff came back I only had time to say my name and ID number before a person called about another emergency in town... Isabel and I waited for an hour on the bench outside the Centro. I was about to give up hope when the staff returned. I finally talked to the medics, had a tetanus shot and got instructions to go and get antibiotics at the pharmacy. Being Saturday evening the closest open pharmacy was in Medina de Pomar, 20 kms away! Isabel said we would go there right away. But then that pharmacy was closed as well. We asked around in the streets and after a few more kms by car we found an open one. The lady at the counter took one stern look at my prescription and said: "I can't give you this". Apparently something was missing from the Centro de Salud in Espinosa; a signature or a number... Isabel started to explain my situation as a pilgrim, that I was only in the region for the night and pretty please. Finally I got the antibiotics. After an obstacle course of approximately four hours in two different towns.

It wasn't all drama though. Isabel had errands to run. We went to the supermarket in the same town as the pharmacy. She also needed to buy sweets from the sisters in the convent Santa Clara. The convent was beautiful! You buy the sweets through a window in the wall: something between a confession booth and a revolving door. The sisters cannot show their faces to the costumers, so you leave your money on the plate, turn it, and the sweets appear in return. I had one of the pastries for breakfast the next day!

I went out of my way to apologize to Isabel for the trouble I caused her during the entire evening. She didn't want to listen to any of it. "I've got nothing else to do this evening, it's no problem!" Dinner, breakfast, a bed, washed clothes, drove me several kms around the area, everything. All donativo. Spoiler: I left her a large donativo. Still I think I didn't give her enough.

And I went to sleep, exhausted but grateful after a rather unusual day on the Camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 3: Villasante - Santelices, 31 kms

I slept until 06:30, an unforgivable sin on a Camino. After breakfast, consisting of sugary pasteries from the industrious nuns in Santa Clara, I was good to go. Isabel walked with me to the first Camino marker outside the village. She told me she knew Adolfo in Nava de Ordunte, and Ender the author of several Camino guidebooks, as well as other people who are supporting the Olvidado. I learned a lot about the history of the Camino from her. She sent me a link on WhatsApp to the lady in charge of the hotel in Santelices where I would stay this evening. And we said goodbye. I don't know how I would have gotten through yesterday without her!

In Espinosa de Monteros I had a second breakfast. I walked past the Centro de Salud and thought about the two health care workers who seemed to have the whole area to attend to... I hope they're paid enough.

Everything went fine until I got to Quintanilla del Rebollar. There the Camino took off for the woods: trail not visible, faint yellow arrows on tree trunks, huge detours down a small ravine just to cross a creek and then up a slope, again and again and again. I was walking about a third of my normal speed because there was nowhere I could put my feet properly. Dry leaves and ungodly branches as far as the eye could see. I got more and more irritated. Halfway to Quisicedo I stumbled upon a dirt road that would take me down to the country road only 100 mtrs away. So I walked the rest of the way to Quisicedo on asphalt. Not ashamed! I would suggest people take the road between these two villages because bushwhacking in the woods was crazy. I ain't walking no 5 kms in a forest that looks like it comes straight out of a horror movie!

In Quisicedo the Camino marker led me up a slope to save a few mtrs of the road, and I emerged right in front of a busy café. A perfect stop for tortilla de patatas and antibiotics.

Then a pleasant stroll through the countryside. There was a hill to conquer before Santelices. Although it wasn't that steep or long, it's always strenuous at the end of a stage...

Downhill was fantastic, through a non-malevolent forest (where there actually was a path to follow) with those green tunnels of foliage that I have walked through so many times on this Camino. Beautifully carved wooden signs appeared frequently to point me in the right direction. The path was zig-zagging and going through some rocky and overgrown places. Still this was my favorite part of the day!

I reached Santelices and the hotel Rincón de las Merindades (45 euros, breakfast included). It's located along the carretera de Bilbao. On the other side of the street there's a restaurant. I've been told that there's a (small) supermarket in town and the guys at the restaurant even pointed out how to get there to me. I didn't find anything. I decided for a pizza at the restaurant instead. A good choice!

To be continued

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 4: Santelices - Arija, 26 kms

As I am closing in on the town of Aguilar de Campoo I can see the places I visited last year, in the same area, on Google maps. I can't believe how close I am to Trespaderne, or to Bisjueces (literally meaning "Two judges") where I stayed off Camino when I needed to rest my foot. I begin to recognize the landscape as well. As long as I don't have to do a 42 kms walk on asphalt to get to Aguilar this time...

When I think of it, the vertical cliffs that have been following me for the last two days are reminiscent of those of the picturesque town of Orbaneja and its dramatic setting, which I had the pleasure to visit last year. If you haven't been tagging along: last year I walked the Camino Viejo from Pamplona to Aguilar de Campoo. The Camino Viejo is supposed to be another version of the Camino Olvidado. Although I think the purists will say that the way from Bilbao is the only Camino Olvidado...

Yesterday evening the lady at the hotel asked me en passant if I would like café con leche in the morning. To that I answered Yes. But when I stepped into the diner at 6 a.m. she had prepared an entire tray with breakfast! What a nice surprise. I was fully satisfied when I left the building. Totally recommended.

It was chilly this morning when I left Santelices: 10 degrees C. Soon I started walking up the hills in the mist. It was dead quiet, and eerily beautiful to walk in the fog. I could still see the brownish Camino markers as well as the cute wooden signs that had begun to appear yesterday. I had no problem navigating through the terrain. A wet, overgrown path finally made me slow down. But by then I could already see the first houses of Argomedo in front of me.

I walked out of Argomedo in the wrong direction and a gentleman redirected me from his balcony... Then a lots of ups and downs before reaching the town of Sencillo where, in spite of being a Monday, cafés were open. Otherwise Monday is a no-no day in Spain when it comes to cafeterías.

There was actually a lot of open bars along the way and I stopped to idle in all of them. I started to close in on the Embalse/Lake del Ebro. The dirt road taking me there was wonderful. To my right, glimpses of the lake; in front of me the light, beautiful mountains of... Cantabria? I think. Rolling fields, small ermitas/chapels and peaceful cattle all around. And as this was the shortest stage I've done in ages, I didn't feel tired at all. Ok, not a 5-star day, but certainly a 4-star! I approve of this Camino.



I stay at the Hotel Rural La Piedra, 30 euros. A hut at the camping would be 22 euros so I may as well stay at the hotel. Yes, I have read on this Forum and in guidebooks that the camping would be about 10-15 euros for us pilgrims. But apparently not anymore. I said I was a pilgrim, asked for the cheapest option, and that was 22 euros. The hotel is perfectly fine and quiet, and the owner will prepare a meal for me this evening.

Tomorrow: Olea!

 

[C clearly]

I slept until 06:30, an unforgivable sin on a Camino.

If you need the sleep and can do it until 6:30, I think it is a sin not to.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Arija - Olea, 32 kms

Yesterday I had dinner with the only other guest at the hotel, a young woman from Madrid. As we didn't know each other the owner had placed us at separate tables in the vast dining room. The three of us giggled at the awkward situation and concluded that the girl and I might as well sit together and keep each other company. Although, as the gentleman I am, I added: "If I don't like her, I'm moving back to my table!" And the three of us laughed heartily.

I was sure Marina was in Olea to visit family, since many people in Spain usually travel to their villages during summer to spend part of their vacation there. But no: she had no connection to Olea at all! She would stay a week at the hotel, alone, and had chosen Olea because it was a calm place with very little people. She would walk different routes in the area, relax, write, and have time to think; she stressed the last word. She was so funny and interesting to talk too..! And finally I had company for dinner again, after having left my little Camino family on the Francés-Aragonés a week ago.

The next morning I had a small breakfast in my room. Too little to adequately prepare for the first 20 kms on the country road. It was a nightmare. The road was devoid of any open bar or café. The lake was nice to look at but I was hungry, tired and needed coffee. But there would be none of that for 32 kms.



I almost couldn't believe it when the Camino finally turned left towards Retortillo and left the country road. The scenery immediately changed. Green Cantabrian hills, forests and pastures with cows and horses everywhere.

I followed the recordings of two guys who have done this stage on Wikiloc. After Retortillo, both guys left the calle de Nuestra Señora at one point to push through the woods. There was no signage for me to do so, but I decided to follow in their footsteps. Unfortunately they led me to a fence with barbed wire which separated me from the Camino. I followed the fence for a while to look for a breach. There kind of was one, and with a bit of acrobatics I got through without tearing myself up. I then saw that if I had continued a couple of 100 meters further along the fence, I would have reached a gate. Future pilgrims better stay on the calle Nuestra Señora instead of walking through the woods like I did. Then they will not have problems with barbed wire, and they will eventually reach that gate. In general, I suggest you use Google maps on this stage.

The Camino took another shortcut across the moor. From the wuthering heights I got the best view of the day: a broad valley, green pastures below me, and the fantastic mountains of Cantabria far away in the horizon.



When I got to the last village before Olea, Cervatos, I hoped the hardships were over. But the worst was yet to come. More uphill walking, bushwhacking to hop on the country road, arrows barely visible... All the way up to Alto del Bardal at 1080 mtrs above sea level, where it started to rain. I used my umbrella the last kms that comfortably took me down to Olea and the apartments Casamiguel.

There is a small shop and a bar in Olea, but you'll have to backtrack 500 mtrs to get there. They close at 2 p.m. and open again at 4. Closed on Tuesdays. I didn't need to go there though. When I got to my little cottage at Casamiguel, a tray with my breakfast (included in the 30 euros) was already prepared. The owner had thrown in a couple of eggs, and as they have their own supplies for sale I could buy tomato sauce. With the things I have with me (pasta, cheese, pocket soups...) I can have both dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow. And I rather not go outside right now because it is raining hard!

Last chapter tomorrow!

 

[MikeJS]

Day 5: Arija - Olea, 32 kms

Yesterday I had dinner with the only other guest at the hotel, a young woman from Madrid. As we didn't know each other the owner had placed us at separate tables in the vast dining room. The three of us giggled at the awkward situation and concluded that the girl and I might as well sit together and keep each other company. Although, as the gentleman I am, I added: "If I don't like her, I'm moving back to my table!" And the three of us laughed heartily.

I was sure Marina was in Olea to visit family, since many people in Spain usually travel to their villages during summer to spend part of their vacation there. But no: she had no connection to Olea at all! She would stay a week at the hotel, alone, and had chosen Olea because it was a calm place with very little people. She would walk different routes in the area, relax, write, and have time to think; she stressed the last word. She was so funny and interesting to talk too..! And finally I had company for dinner again, after having left my little Camino family on the Francés-Aragonés a week ago.

The next morning I had a small breakfast in my room. Too little to adequately prepare for the first 20 kms on the country road. It was a nightmare. The road was devoid of any open bar or café. The lake was nice to look at but I was hungry, tired and needed coffee. But there would be none of that for 32 kms.

View attachment 174261

I almost couldn't believe it when the Camino finally turned left towards Retortillo and left the country road. The scenery immediately changed. Green Cantabrian hills, forests and pastures with cows and horses everywhere.

I followed the recordings of two guys who have done this stage on Wikiloc. After Retortillo, both guys left the calle de Nuestra Señora at one point to push through the woods. There was no signage for me to do so, but I decided to follow in their footsteps. Unfortunately they led me to a fence with barbed wire which separated me from the Camino. I followed the fence for a while to look for a breach. There kind of was one, and with a bit of acrobatics I got through without tearing myself up. I then saw that if I had continued a couple of 100 meters further along the fence, I would have reached a gate. Future pilgrims better stay on the calle Nuestra Señora instead of walking through the woods like I did. Then they will not have problems with barbed wire, and they will eventually reach that gate. In general, I suggest you use Google maps on this stage.

The Camino took another shortcut across the moor. From the wuthering heights I got the best view of the day: a broad valley, green pastures below me, and the fantastic mountains of Cantabria far away in the horizon.
View attachment 174266

When I got to the last village before Olea, Cervatos, I hoped the hardships were over. But the worst was yet to come. More uphill walking, bushwhacking to hop on the country road, arrows barely visible... All the way up to Alto del Bardal at 1080 mtrs above sea level, where it started to rain. I used my umbrella the last kms that comfortably took me down to Olea and the apartments Casamiguel.

There is a small shop and a bar in Olea, but you'll have to backtrack 500 mtrs to get there. They close at 2 p.m. and open again at 4. Closed on Tuesdays. I didn't need to go there though. When I got to my little cottage at Casamiguel, a tray with my breakfast (included in the 30 euros) was already prepared. The owner had thrown in a couple of eggs, and as they have their own supplies for sale I could buy tomato sauce. With the things I have with me (pasta, cheese, pocket soups...) I can have both dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow. And I rather not go outside right now because it is raining hard!

Last chapter tomorrow!

I remember the walking through those woods and hoping for a gate or opening, fortunately I waited a tad longer than you and found a gap. I walked to Olea in a day from Soncillo. Was not my original plan but I got to Arroyo intending top stay at La Lobera at 1300 which was way too early for me to stop and to top it all the rooms would not have been available for another 2 or 3 hours. I therefore decided to walk on and hence I ended up on Olea. However, having not intended to be at Casa Miguel in Olea I arrive with nothing but emergency rations. Miguel solved this by taking me to his friend's (now closed) restaurant, who supplied me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? Casa Miguel was great and the people could not have been more helpful. Did Miguel take you to is bodega…… hic!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 6: Olea - Aguilar de Campoo, 24 kms.

After a hearty breakfast and a big bowl of coffee I reluctantly left my cozy cottage at Casamiguel. Another place on the Camino that is worth much more than what I paid for. You won't be disappointed if you stay there.

The Camino made a detour on a dirt road to reach the first village of Reinosilla, while it should have been easier to walk straight to Reinosilla on the country road... I noticed this pattern yesterday as well. My legs felt tired from the hardships of the previous stage and I wasn't happy about adding kms.

Apparently I wasn't the only one who was sleepy this morning:



In the hamlet of La Quintana I was startled by a dog silently sneaking up from behind to sniff my hand. Luckily this little guy wasn't out for blood:



He followed me for a good while as I walked out of La Quintana. I thought he would never leave me. I stopped to take my antibiotics - ironically because I'd got bitten by a dog - and he waited patiently by my side. Then, without warning, he took off like a shot, tail between his legs. Before I knew it I saw a horse come rushing down the road right towards me. I almost thought I would get run over. The horse finally turned left in the same direction as the poor puppy who got scared of it. And there was a car following the horse, forcing it back to the hamlet after perhaps some nocturnal adventures off-pasture. As the car effectively drove both naughty horse and importunate puppy back home, I continued.

Contrary to yesterday the terrain was flat all the way. But nowhere to eat or drink. There could be something in Nestar, 7 kms before Aguilar de Campoo, but I didn't investigate. I crossed the border between Cantabria and Castilla-León and arrived comfortably in the large town of Aguilar de Campoo with its castle on top of a hill. And this is the end of my Camino Olvidado as I walked from Aguilar last year. It's a good place to end a Camino: I love the large square with its broad arcades, lively cafés, the impressive church and fountains. A very beautiful town.



Just like last year I stay at Hostal Los Olmos (40 euros). It's in the industrial suburbs about 800 mtrs from the town's center. But it's the closest option to the train station tomorrow when I leave for another Camino. Since I did a short stage today I don't mind walking one or two kms extra to town and back this afternoon. And I remember Los Olmos as a very good hostal and restaurant. You might say it's weird to want to stay in an industrial suburb, but Los Olmos is the oasis in that suburb!

Thanks for following! If you wonder what the rest of the Olvidado is like, last year's report is here. Can't talk anymore now, gotta go on another Camino!

Bye!

 

[MikeJS]

Glad your route from Olea was uneventful given your recent dog experience. My blog states "It was a fairly uneventful day with the exception of three large ‘hunting ‘ dogs just after leaving. Had to resort to throwing a large rock at the more aggressive of the 3. In fact there were a few enthusiastic dogs today and that’s not really been a problem on this camino so far. "

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I remember the walking through those woods and hoping for a gate or opening, fortunately I waited a tad longer than you and found a gap. I walked to Olea in a day from Soncillo. Was not my original plan but I got to Arroyo intending top stay at La Lobera at 1300 which was way too early for me to stop and to top it all the rooms would not have been available for another 2 or 3 hours. I therefore decided to walk on and hence I ended up on Olea. However, having not intended to be at Casa Miguel in Olea I arrive with nothing but emergency rations. Miguel solved this by taking me to his friend's (now closed) restaurant, who supplied me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? Casa Miguel was great and the people could not have been more helpful. Did Miguel take you to is bodega…… hic!

Just thinking about walking from Soncillo to Olea gives me a heart attack! That's impressive! I thought walking from Arija was enough. Still the weather was cool. Yesterday evening I binged Sara Dhooma's YouTube videos on the Olvidado and she walked Arija - Olea in scorching sun... I would have died! And can't imagine walking all the way from Soncillo!

I only spoke to Miguel on the phone: he sent one of his sisters to show me my room, another sister to stamp my credential in the evening. No, there was no bodega yesterday. I think he mentioned something about a bodega and wine when I called him to make the reservation though. He is very talkative on the phone ! I noticed all three of them were super helpful, yes! When I saw the cottage, the facilities and the breakfast I couldn't believe it was no more than 30 euros. Definitely my favorite place on the Olvidado this year. But then again, I only have 6 lodgings to compare with...

 

[peregrina2000]

Miguel solved this by taking me to his friend's (now closed) restaurant, who supplied me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? Casa Miguel was great and the people could not have been more helpful. Did Miguel take you to is bodega…… hic!

I didn’t get to the bodega, but that’s probably because Miguel and some friends had a barbeque outside and brought half the contents of the bodega to the tables. Lots of slabs of meat thrown on the grill, lots of wine and other stuff. We were taken in like one of the family. This guy obviously enjoys his job in the hospitality business and is so kind. He took us back up to the store when it opened because Susanna was hurting with bad blisters. And he charged us a pittance. I am glad to see he is still going strong!

That stage before Olea needs some work. What Mike and BP describe is familiar to me, and I walked it more than a decade ago!

 

[VNwalking]

Well that beats the 40+kms you had to walk coming in from the Viejo! Really enjoyed following your Olvidado, @Bad Pilgrim.

And there's more coming? You do know how to keep us in suspense...

 

[VNwalking]

Well that beats the 40+kms you had to walk coming in from the Viejo! Really enjoyed following your Olvidado, @Bad Pilgrim.

And there's more coming? You do know how to keep us in suspense...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Well that beats the 40+kms you had to walk coming in from the Viejo! Really enjoyed following your Olvidado, @Bad Pilgrim.

And there's more coming? You do know how to keep us in suspense...

It was heavenly to arrive in Aguilar after only 24 kms, instead of close to 44!! A whole other experience. A very good "end" to the Olvidado!

Next Camino thread popping up soon

 

[MikeJS]

Just thinking about walking from Soncillo to Olea gives me a heart attack! That's impressive! I thought walking from Arija was enough. Still the weather was cool. Yesterday evening I binged Sara Dhooma's YouTube videos on the Olvidado and she walked Arija - Olea in scorching sun... I would have died! And can't imagine walking all the way from Soncillo!

I only spoke to Miguel on the phone: he sent one of his sisters to show me my room, another sister to stamp my credential in the evening. No, there was no bodega yesterday. I think he mentioned something about a bodega and wine when I called him to make the reservation though. He is very talkative on the phone ! I noticed all three of them were super helpful, yes! When I saw the cottage, the facilities and the breakfast I couldn't believe it was no more than 30 euros. Definitely my favorite place on the Olvidado this year. But then again, I only have 5 other lodgings to compare with...

There was a reason I ended up doing that. The forecast that morning was for heavy rain and thunderstorms so i started at around 0700 and walked quickly to try to beat the storms. However, that meant I got to Arroyo very early……… Then the sky was clear blue and nothing showing on the rain radar and is was one of those days when the body felt great and decided another 20kms was fine.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

intending top stay at La Lobera at 1300 which was way too early for me to stop and to top it all the rooms would not have been available for another 2 or 3 hours.

According to @omicko 's information sheet it was unclear (Summer 2022) if La Lobera still operates. Were you /going to stay/ there this year?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I walked in 2014 and we paid 40 something for a double room! Google suggests that’s a greater price increase than just inflation. Looking at the website, it does look to me like the hotel has had a substantial upgrade and is a much more “high end” place than it was when we walked. I also remember a fairly uninteresting meal in their dining room, and now they show all sorts of glamourous photos!

... I just found a post from @jerry lordan who paid 61 euros for a room in 2023. So it's gone from 33 euros to 40, 61 and 89 euros since 2019! I should have walked the Olvidado earlier...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

According to the Camino Olvidado Facebook Page there are way more pilgrims walking ther Olvidado this year. I've seen a picture with I believe 5 or 6 at the wonderful muni run by Sonia in Puente Almuhey.

You're lucky with the new albergue in Zalla. In order to avoid staying in a hotel I walked the first day to Balmeseda.

Enjoy!

Well, between Bilbao and Aguilar de Campoo I was all alone! There was a group of four Spanish youngsters who continued on the Olvidado right after Puente del Diablo in Bilbao but I never saw them again...

 

[LTfit]

Well, between Bilbao and Aguilar de Campoo I was all alone! There was a group of four Spanish youngsters who continued on the Olvidado right after Puente del Diablo in Bilbao but I never saw them again...

Join the crowd

 

[peregrina2000]

BP continued on the Vadiniense. To follow along, go here.