LIVE from the Camino BP's Olvidado July 2024: Unfinished business

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 0: Bilbao

I arrived in Bilbao today, from another Camino, to start the Camino Olvidado. I walked the Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo to Villafranca del Bierzo last year, so I will only walk from Bilbao to Aguilar de Campoo this time. That should take about a week.

If you're interested in the part of the Camino Olvidado that I did last year, you can read about it here.

I've already let the albergue in Zalla know I'm coming tomorrow: since it's new I want to check it out! It will also give me a hunch how many people are walking with me from Bilbao. Normally I must say I prefer hostales...

This evening it's all about relaxing in the old town in central Bilbao, next to the Catedral de Santiago. Tomorrow I need to walk almost 1.5 hours extra to get to the starting point of the Olvidado, at the Devil's Bridge! Bilbao is big.

Tag along if you don't have anything else to do!

 

[C clearly]

Tag along if you don't have anything else to do!

Even if we do have other things we should be doing!

 

[peregrina2000]

This evening it's all about relaxing in the old town in central Bilbao

I would love for you to take some pictures of the amazing pintxos displays that you find in nearly every bar in that entire area. Some are really works of art! Not to mention delicious.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I would love for you to take some pictures of the amazing pintxos displays that you find in nearly every bar in that entire area. Some are really works of art! Not to mention delicious.

I just had a café con leche and a dry croissant - does that count?

 

[LTfit]

According to the Camino Olvidado Facebook Page there are way more pilgrims walking ther Olvidado this year. I've seen a picture with I believe 5 or 6 at the wonderful muni run by Sonia in Puente Almuhey.

You're lucky with the new albergue in Zalla. In order to avoid staying in a hotel I walked the first day to Balmeseda.

Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

Adolfo is a true camino angel on the first part of the route. He came to Villasana de Mena to meet us when we got back from our walk out to the amazing romanesque churches (which probably don’t interest you, BP). And then he met up with us the next morning when we took a taxi back from Villasana to his town Nava de Ordunte (He has since put in a donativo albergue, which always gets high reviews). He walked with us for the morning, and I remember having a very good pan con chorizo at the bakery when we got to the place where his son (?) came to pick him up.

His phone 652 773 055 (uses Whats App).

I first walked the Olvidado in 2014. When Susanna had an injury and had to leave after the first week, I was kind of freaking out because I couldn’t figure out how to use my GPS (having relied on her and her expertise). @GunnarW was my tech angel, and Adolfo was my go-to person for everything else I needed. One of my strongest memories is how he helped me out when I was alone in Fasgar and couldn’t find Rosi.

If you stay there, will you please send him my abrazos? This photo might jog his memory!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Adolfo is a true camino angel on the first part of the route. He came to Villasana de Mena to meet us when we got back from our walk out to the amazing romanesque churches (which probably don’t interest you, BP). And then he met up with us the next morning when we took a taxi back from Villasana to his town Nava de Ordunte (He has since put in a donativo albergue, which always gets high reviews). He walked with us for the morning, and I remember having a very good pan con chorizo at the bakery when we got to the place where his son (?) came to pick him up.

His phone 652 773 055 (uses Whats App).

I first walked the Olvidado in 2014. When Susanna had an injury and had to leave after the first week, I was kind of freaking out because I couldn’t figure out how to use my GPS (having relied on her and her expertise). @GunnarW was my tech angel, and Adolfo was my go-to person for everything else I needed. One of my strongest memories is how he helped me out when I was alone in Fasgar and couldn’t find Rosi.

If you stay there, will you please send him my abrazos? This photo might jog his memory!

I'll see what I can do. I don't even know where I go tomorrow! I saw there's a choice 2A and 3A according to the maps? Maybe not going through Nava de Ordunte then? I am in Sodupe now, taking one step at a time... on the bidegorri [cycle track]!

 

[peregrina2000]

You’re right that caminoolvidado.com shows two alterntives for the two stages between Güenes and Espinosa de los Monteros. Those alternatives did not exist when I walked. We walked through Nava de Ordunte to Villasana de Mena and then took a taxi back to Villasana the next day, which is where we met Adolfo. At that time, there was a hotel in Villasana and no albergue in Nava de Ordunte.

For some reason, there are now two alternatives. Villasana de Mena and Nava de Ordunte are only 7 km apart, so I do not really understand the reason. But the main difference is where you want to spend the night after Güenes (or in your case Zalla, since there’s now an albergue) — in Villasana or in Nava de Ordunte.

Güenes - Villasana - Espinosa

Güenes - Nava de Ordunte - Espinosa

Both routes go Güenes to Balmaseda and then split off around Santecilla, with 2A going to Villasana and 2B going to Nava de Ordunte.

The two routes once again join up the next day in Ordejón de Mena. So the vast majority of both days is the same route with a little dip to get to Villasana if that’s your goal.

Vilasana is a big town (and has the fabulous circle walk to romanesque churches), but the hotel that we stayed in has closed. The guide shows two apartments for rent. Nava de Ordunte is a village where Adolfo lives and has his albergue. And there are places to eat.

Buen camino, BP! Oh that bidegorri seems to go on forever, and it is hard on the feet! But it’s a lovely walk, isn’t it?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Both routes go Güenes to Balmaseda

This is one of the few things I understood when I hastily tried to patch the different guides together while walking (!) today. So I actually ended up in Balmaseda, where I am in the albergue juvenil right now! Yes I moved swiftly on the bidegorri today so I chose not to stop in Zalla.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, BP! I'm happy to be tagging along, sort of...with none of the physical discomfort.

 

[setmeravelles]

¡Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

where I am in the albergue juvenil right now!

Oh, my, BP in an albergue juvenil usually spells trouble.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Bilbao - Balmaseda, 38 kms (+ ? kms in Bilbao)

I had to walk 1.5 hours extra in the morning to get to the Devil's Bridge where the Camino Olvidado starts. The further I went, the uglier the suburbs of Bilbao got. Everything accompanied by a foul stench that only got worse as I crossed the bridge and continued through sketchy areas with derelict factories, graffiti and overfilled trash cans. Not until I hopped on the bidegorri [cycle track] did I feel I began to leave the horrors of Bilbao behind me. Sodupe was the first pretty basque town of the day, and from there it only got better! The part between Zalla and Balmaseda was the best one, in the woods with a river. At times I was walking in luscious, green tunnels of foliage, and it looked beautiful in the afternoon light... But: today was 100 % asphalt from start to finish.



While I was walking I tried to get hold of some sort of accommodation in Balmaseda. The hotel Convento San Roque would be 89 euros *gasp*. The only other option in town, the albergue juvenil, didn't even pick up the phone. I decided to go straight to the albergue to see if I could find someone there to help me, or another number to call. Finally a guy answered. But he couldn't get there to help me as he had just come out of the dentist's after surgery! The poor soul guided me by phone, with his sore mouth, to the keys and through the building. Eventually I got inside the albergue. He told me one should generally call in advance (I think he meant at least one day). Future pilgrims: take note.

The albergue is spacious with 22 beds, but it looks like I will be here alone tonight. Fully equipped kitchen. In spite of being called an albergue juvenil the guy said it is exclusively for pilgrims (?!). 12 euros is certainly a better deal than 89 euros at the hotel. I like luxury, but I ain't that crazy!

Tomorrow is a hard stage to plan. Nava de Ordunte is too short (11 kms) and Espinosa de Montero is too long (40+ kms). In between: donativo at Isabel's place in Villasante (but she asked me to call her again tomorrow and we'll see) and Taranco (where there is a couple of places to stay that Isabel messaged me about on WhatsApp). It's complicated. Isabel seems to be a nice and helpful person anyway! Her phone number is listed in the resource with accommodation for the Olvidado that @omicko has posted. If you plan to stay at her house I suggest you ask her several days in advance (which I didn't). She lets pilgrims stay only in case she is in town.

Who knows where I'll end up tomorrow...

To be continued

 

[VNwalking]

but it looks like I will be here alone tonight.

Well, that's a blessing.
Best wishes for tomorrow. Hoping it works out as well as today!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

It's eerie to be alone in such a large building! I have already seen teenage thugs sneaking around the corner. They pretend to be sitting in a nearby house watching football, but I know it's me they are after!! I've got Guardia Civil on speed dial!

Good night!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I stay at Isabel's place tonight so I got everything sorted out. Right now in Ribota de Ordunte, where the restaurant luckily was open. I sneaked away from the reservoir to get there. I was so hungry... No breakfast ready but tarta de queso will do.

 

[MikeJS]

Day 1: Bilbao - Balmaseda, 38 kms (+ ? kms in Bilbao)

I had to walk 1.5 hours extra in the morning to get to the Devil's Bridge where the Camino Olvidado starts. The further I went, the uglier the suburbs of Bilbao got. Everything accompanied by a foul stench that only got worse as I crossed the bridge and continued through sketchy areas with derelict factories, graffiti and overfilled trash cans. Not until I hopped on the bidegorri [cycle track] did I feel I began to leave the horrors of Bilbao behind me. Sodupe was the first pretty basque town of the day, and from there it only got better! The part between Zalla and Balmaseda was the best one, in the woods with a river. At times I was walking in luscious, green tunnels of foliage, and it looked beautiful in the afternoon light... But: today was 100 % asphalt from start to finish.

View attachment 173895

While I was walking I tried to get hold of some sort of accommodation in Balmaseda. The hotel Convento San Roque would be 89 euros *gasp*. The only other option in town, the albergue juvenil, didn't even pick up the phone. I decided to go straight to the albergue to see if I could find someone there to help me, or another number to call. Finally a guy answered. But he couldn't get there to help me as he had just come out of the dentist's after surgery! The poor soul guided me by phone, with his sore mouth, to the keys and through the building. Eventually I got inside the albergue. He told me one should generally call in advance (I think he meant at least one day). Future pilgrims: take note.

The albergue is spacious with 22 beds, but it looks like I will be here alone tonight. Fully equipped kitchen. In spite of being called an albergue juvenil the guy said it is exclusively for pilgrims (?!). 12 euros is certainly a better deal than 89 euros at the hotel. I like luxury, but I ain't that crazy!

Tomorrow is a hard stage to plan. Nava de Ordunte is too short (11 kms) and Espinosa de Montero is too long (40+ kms). In between: donativo at Isabel's place in Villasante (but she asked me to call her again tomorrow and we'll see) and Taranco (where there is a couple of places to stay that Isabel messaged me about on WhatsApp). It's complicated. Isabel seems to be a nice and helpful person anyway! Her phone number is listed in the resource with accommodation for the Olvidado that @omicko has posted. If you plan to stay at her house I suggest you ask her several days in advance (which I didn't). She lets pilgrims stay only in case she is in town.

Who knows where I'll end up tomorrow...

To be continued

Wow.I paid 33 euros in Sept 19 for the Convento.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow.I paid 33 euros in Sept 19 for the Convento.

I walked in 2014 and we paid 40 something for a double room! Google suggests that’s a greater price increase than just inflation. Looking at the website, it does look to me like the hotel has had a substantial upgrade and is a much more “high end” place than it was when we walked. I also remember a fairly uninteresting meal in their dining room, and now they show all sorts of glamourous photos!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I'm lagging behind with my reports because of the whole situation yesterday (I was bitten by a dog) but I'll try to catch up. Now in Espinosa de Montero enjoying a second breakfast... including my new medicine. Nom nom

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I walked in 2014 and we paid 40 something for a double room! Google suggests that’s a greater price increase than just inflation. Looking at the website, it does look to me like the hotel has had a substantial upgrade and is a much more “high end” place than it was when we walked. I also remember a fairly uninteresting meal in their dining room, and now they show all sorts of glamourous photos!

I definitely told them I was a pilgrim (always trying to catch that discount) but it was still 89 euros. So yeah things must have changed. From the outside it looked really posh as well!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm lagging behind with my reports because of the whole situation yesterday (I was bitten by a dog) but I'll try to catch up. Now in Espinosa de Montero enjoying a second breakfast... including my new medicine. Nom nom

I remember that town was in fiestas when Susanna and I walked. We stayed in a cute little hotel right on the Plaza where you are sitting and enjoyed watching everything below. Music, parade, dancing, you know, the typical Spanish fiesta in the pueblo!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks to all the info provided by BP, Adolfo knows where the dogs live and will speak to the owners. I’m hopeful that the owners simply didn’t know that their dogs could get under the fence and that they will take steps to keep them on the other side of the fence. I will post updates, hopefully soon!

Where are you sleeping tonight, BP? Hope you’re feeling fine.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Balmaseda - Villasante, 39 kms (last 3 kms by car)

From Balmaseda, more asphalt in the morning. I walked on country roads until I reached the town of Nava de Ordunte. No signs of life. Since it was Saturday morning every bar and restaurant was closed, at least this early.

I continued along the asphalt and wondered if I would arrive too early to the next restaurant in Ribota de Mena. The Camino veered off towards the reservoir/lake Ordunte (the first long stretch not on tarmac since Bilbao). When I got to a road leading up to Ribota I just had to leave the Camino and the lake: I was so hungry! No breakfast, only café con leche available. But the owner must have noticed my emaciated face, shredded clothes and hollow eyes and taken pity on me. She proposed I get a dessert with the coffee. That cheesecake got me going again! I didn't walk back to the reservoir, but joined the Camino on the country road a few kms after Ribota.

Gradually more paths in the woods appeared. Some parts were overgrown, but nothing I haven't pushed through before.

And then I got to the village of Concejero. I wrote in another thread - because I wanted to alert pilgrims coming behind me - that I got bitten by a dog. Beware when you're walking through this village. This happened without me provoking the dogs so I am certain it can happen to others. The teeth went through the skin (my ankle) and there was enough blood to color my sock. But it wasn't deep. I called out "Oiga! [Hello!]" to let the owner have his fishes served warm as we say where I come from. (Meaning: I would let the miserable owner know what I thought about him and his ugly dogs). But no answer.

There was a fountain just minutes away. I washed my foot in cold water; that was the only thing I could do at the moment. I had Isabel on WhatsApp and told her what happened. She would wait for me outside Bercedo in her car and then we would decide if I needed to see a doctor. At first we both concluded that the bite wasn't that deep so she drove me to her home. She used to run an albergue; now she lets pilgrims stay at her house if she happens to be in Villasante.

I phoned a medical counselor in my country and he suggested I see a doctor anyway. I said to Isabel I could go to Espinosa de Montero and to the Centro de Salud by bus; she said she would take me there by car immediately.

When we arrived in Espinosa, 7 kms away, the health care staff (two persons) needed to go on a visit. Isabel and I had coffee at the square while waiting. When the staff came back I only had time to say my name and ID number before a person called about another emergency in town... Isabel and I waited for an hour on the bench outside the Centro. I was about to give up hope when the staff returned. I finally talked to the medics, had a tetanus shot and got instructions to go and get antibiotics at the pharmacy. Being Saturday evening the closest open pharmacy was in Medina de Pomar, 20 kms away! Isabel said we would go there right away. But then that pharmacy was closed as well. We asked around on the streets and after a few more kms by car we found an open one. The lady at the counter took one stern look at my sheet and said: "I can't give you this". Apparently something was missing from the Centro de Salud in Espinosa; a signature or a number... Isabel started to explain my situation as a pilgrim, that I was only in the region for the night and pretty please. Finally I got the antibiotics. After an obstacle course of approximately four hours in two different towns.

It wasn't all drama though. Isabel had errands to run. We went to the supermarket in the same town as the pharmacy. She also needed to buy sweets from the sisters in the convent Santa Clara. The convent was beautiful! You buy the sweets through a window in the wall: something between a confession booth and a revolving door. The sisters cannot show their faces to the costumers, so you leave your money on the plate, turn it, and the sweets appear in return. I had one of the pastries for breakfast the next day!

I went out of my way to apologize to Isabel for all the trouble I caused her during the entire evening. She didn't want to listen to any of it. "I've got nothing else to do this evening, it's no problem!" Dinner, breakfast, a bed, washed clothes, drove me several kms around the area, everything. All donativo. Spoiler: I left her a large donativo. Still I think I didn't give her enough.

And I went to sleep, exhausted but grateful after a rather unusual day on the Camino.