Ponferrada worth 36hrs pre-Camino?

[Scudder]

I'll be starting my first, short Camino in Ponferrada on a Monday, and have some flexibility prior to that. I'll have spent a few days in Madrid upon arrival in Spain—I'm there often and know the city well but I'm always happy to spend an extra day with my friends there. But don't *need* to add time there. I'd appreciate some input on the following options:

-Trains to Ponferrada on Saturday afternoon and explore/relax there for 36+hrs.
-Train to Leon Saturday, 24 hours there before going to Ponferrada for a shorter overnight.
-Skip them both—train directly to Ponferrada on Sunday for the Monday start.

 

[jsalt]

Hi, if you want to visit the castle in Ponferrada note that it is closed on Mondays.

 

[Tincatinker]

Hmm, Ponferrada: small Spanish provincial city with a disnified castle with some notional links to the Templars and with a couple of good wine bars and one exceptional restaurant.
Leon: large Spanish provincial city with a stunning cathedral, several good bars and two or three exceptional restaurants.
Madrid: is Madrid but I gather you’re already aware of that

My advice would be to spend as little time as is absolutely necessary in Madrid. Train to Leon and walk from there. Much more fun and a longer Camino. Nearly long enough to discover the perfect joy of: “Walk; Eat; Sleep; Repeat”.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I'll be starting my first, short Camino in Ponferrada on a Monday, and have some flexibility prior to that. I'll have spent a few days in Madrid upon arrival in Spain—I'm there often and know the city well but I'm always happy to spend an extra day with my friends there. But don't *need* to add time there. I'd appreciate some input on the following options:

-Trains to Ponferrada on Saturday afternoon and explore/relax there for 36+hrs.
-Train to Leon Saturday, 24 hours there before going to Ponferrada for a shorter overnight.
-Skip them both—train directly to Ponferrada on Sunday for the Monday start.

Ponferrada is the only city I didn't like along the Camino Frances. Most of it is a bit rundown. IMO.
Leon is much nicer.

 

[J Willhaus]

My husband attended a hospitalero singing workshop there. The castle is nice if you have not been to a castle. The basilica is nice. He had the "pig ears" tapas with his friends (chewy and kind of in a tomato sauce). Maybe a half day?

 

[Robo]

@Scudder Walk up to Villavieja for the night. and back down the next day.
Amazing Albergue.

 

[gordon1]

Yes Start at Leon and may I suggest you at ponferrada you change to the inverenio.This is in my humble opinion a very special Camino to arrive in Santiago.

 

[Desert Bruce]

Hmm, Ponferrada: small Spanish provincial city with a disnified castle with some notional links to the Templars and with a couple of good wine bars and one exceptional restaurant.

What is the "one exceptional restaurant" in Ponferrada? I'm wondering if it is someplace I tried, probably not, given my budget, but I'm curious.
I just spent 2 weeks there as hospitalero at San Nicolas.

 

[Aptrail]

Hmm, Ponferrada: small Spanish provincial city with a disnified castle with some notional links to the Templars and with a couple of good wine bars and one exceptional restaurant.
Leon: large Spanish provincial city with a stunning cathedral, several good bars and two or three exceptional restaurants.
Madrid: is Madrid but I gather you’re already aware of that

My advice would be to spend as little time as is absolutely necessary in Madrid. Train to Leon and walk from there. Much more fun and a longer Camino. Nearly long enough to discover the perfect joy of: “Walk; Eat; Sleep; Repeat”.

I’ve been reading the comments and see the variety of opinions. I’ll add that I really like Ponferrada. While at San Nicolas as a hospitalero I was lucky enough to meet up with a running group there and over the course of 15 days got to run with them 3 times and go out for tapas and beers afterward. Through the group I met a few people which led to a couple of lunches with locals on my days off. Consequently I got to know the town and some of the trails around town. So I would say that there are a lot of fun and interesting things to do there that would easily fill 36 hours

 

[Tincatinker]

What is the "one exceptional restaurant" in Ponferrada? I'm wondering if it is someplace I tried, probably not, given my budget, but I'm curious.
I just spent 2 weeks there as hospitalero at San Nicolas.

https://restaurantemuna.com/ is truly exceptional but probably only within a pilgrim budget if someone else is picking up the tab. I'm a Tinker, I get lucky

Out of my own pocket I'd pay for the "Menu Especial" at https://www.lacasadelbotillo.com/ without a hint of a flinch

Edit: bugger! I've just done what I try so hard not to do which is to make it even harder to get a table at a favourite restaurant.

For those considering following my recommendation I should advise that the waiters are really surly; the chairs are uncomfortable; it's an ever such a long walk from the Albergue; the wall-paper is terrible and they only stock 12 varieties of Orujo. Not really worth the effort if I'm honest.... Nah; just hit the nearest supermarket and get a microwaveable paella and a carton of red. You'll be fine

 

[jillianbausch]

Ponferrada is the only city I didn't like along the Camino Frances. Most of it is a bit rundown. IMO.
Leon is much nicer.

I second that sentiment!

 

[isobelmtl]

What is the "one exceptional restaurant" in Ponferrada? I'm wondering if it is someplace I tried, probably not, given my budget, but I'm curious.
I just spent 2 weeks there as hospitalero at San Nicolas.

Oh I did the last 2 weeks of April as hospitalera there too. I was very tempted by the Invierno but I think it is rather lonely for me. Must try to persuade my daughter to come with me. I liked San Nicolas albergue. Had never heard of him and once I learned his story, I wondered why his wife wasn’t canonized too.

 

[Scudder]

Thanks, everyone. I think I'll stick with the original plan, going to Ponferrada on the last train Saturday and spending Sunday there before starting my Camino on Monday.

Of course starting from father out for a longer Camino would be very nice. I'm deeply fortunate to have the time and flexibility to travel as much as I do, but making this trip longer isn't an option.

 

[JimDerry]

Found a great espresso/bakery right by the castle!
That was the highlight for me in Ponferrada.
The rest of the city was kind of a letdown.

 

[Richard Smith]

I really enjoyed Ponferrada.
The Castle was open and we spent a good time seeing all of it, including the walled tunnel down to the river and the library with old books. (But I love castles and books)

 

[CWBuff]

I'm a type of a person that almost always can find "something to do" practically anywhere.
A per-Camino full day in Ponferrada? Heck YEah!
I cannot argue that Leon is "better" - definitely much more to see and\or do but I would not fully 'dismiss' Ponferrada off hand.

 

[Desert Bruce]

Oh I did the last 2 weeks of April as hospitalera there too. I was very tempted by the Invierno but I think it is rather lonely for me. Must try to persuade my daughter to come with me. I liked San Nicolas albergue. Had never heard of him and once I learned his story, I wondered why his wife wasn’t canonized too.

Isobel, I want to thank you for recommending Alpinarium to me the night before I started the Invierno the last Sunday of April. I ate there as often as I could while I served at San Nicolas the second quincena of May.

 

[Scudder]

I'm a type of a person that almost always can find "something to do" practically anywhere.
A per-Camino full day in Ponferrada? Heck YEah!
I cannot argue that Leon is "better" - definitely much more to see and\or do but I would not fully 'dismiss' Ponferrada off hand.

I'm similar. My worst case scenario is spending an afternoon reading and people watching on a terrace—a fine option on a good day.

I'll ge to Leon sometime relatively soon for a few days of tourism, I'm sure.

 

[isobelmtl]

Isobel, I want to thank you for recommending Alpinarium to me the night before I started the Invierno the last Sunday of April. I ate there as often as I could while I served at San Nicolas the second quincena of May.

So glad it filled the bill! The food is good and the atmosphere a bit different. Just off to British Colombia ( Vancouver Island). “Junuary” is over now so look forward to a bit of mountain hiking. Gotta get the bear bells out!

 

[donnaonthego]

I'll be starting my first, short Camino in Ponferrada on a Monday, and have some flexibility prior to that. I'll have spent a few days in Madrid upon arrival in Spain—I'm there often and know the city well but I'm always happy to spend an extra day with my friends there. But don't *need* to add time there. I'd appreciate some input on the following options:

-Trains to Ponferrada on Saturday afternoon and explore/relax there for 36+hrs.
-Train to Leon Saturday, 24 hours there before going to Ponferrada for a shorter overnight.
-Skip them both—train directly to Ponferrada on Sunday for the Monday start.

Ponferrada is worth a few hours to see the castle, but that's it. I wouldn't stay overnight there again. Next time, I'd stay in Molinaseco overnight, have breakfast in Ponferrada then move along.