Invierno Planning Questions 2024

[jungleboy]

Hello Invierno veterans!

@Wendy Werneth and I are a few weeks away from our Invierno, starting 19 June. I have long wanted to combine the Invierno with the Olvidado (dating back to a 2018 conversation over a glass of wine or two in Lisbon with @peregrina2000) but we never managed to fit this into our camino schedule. We only have time for a short camino this year and with all the 'do it now before it gets discovered!' talk around the Invierno, we thought it wise to follow that order, and quick-smart!

We have 13 walking days, though it's possible, but not preferable, that we could extend it to 14. Wendy starts an advanced Galego course in SdC on the 15th day, so it would be nice for that not to be the day after we arrive.

We'd like to include some of Laurie's Valle del Silencio prelude at the beginning because it sounds great. Her two-day itinerary fits our timeframe but that would likely mean three straight 27km days out of the gate, which is manageable but we would prefer a bit less walking. Two options to reduce this load while staying on a 13-day schedule are (a) do the two-day prelude and then a shorter third day to Sobradelo, although there's only one place to stay there and it's apparently not too flash, or (b) do a three-day prelude, but that would mean making up a day elsewhere, possibly a long final day into SdC. What say you?

Other questions:

- Would we be 'missing out' by not staying in Monforte de Lemos? Continuing to Piñeiro or Vilariño would be a much better division of those days than the Gronze 12.5 + 30.4 split.

- Are there any accommodation/restaurants that you would recommend in particular?

Possible stages (including two-day prelude):

1 - Ponferrada - Montes de Valdueza 27km
2 - Médulas - 27km
3 - O Barco de Valdeorras - 27.2km (Or Sobradelo, 19km)
4 - A Rúa de Valdeorras - 12.0km (Or 20.2km if coming from Sobradelo)
5 - Quiroga - 26.5km
6 - A Pobra do Brollón - 22.9km
7 - Monforte de Lemos - 12.5km (or Piñeiro, 24km, or Vilariño, another 4-ish km)
8 - Chantada - 30.4km (or if from Piñeiro, 18.9km)
9 - Rodeiro - 25.4km
10 - Lalín - 21.9km
11 - Dornelas (Casa Leiras) - 27.8km (we stopped here for a drink on our Sanabrés and would love to stay the night this time)
12 - Deseiro (Reina Lupa) - 17.5km
13 - SdC - 12km

And finally: is there anywhere in Ponferrada to buy a wooden pilgrim staff?

 

[peregrina2000]

Her two-day itinerary fits our timeframe but that would likely mean three straight 27km days out of the gate, which is manageable but we would prefer a bit less walking.

One thing to pay attention to is which trail you take up to Peñalba. All options require going up, of course. When Reb and I walked, we went from Peñalba through Montes de Valdueza and on to Ponferrada (you would do this in reverse).

A few months ago, I took a slightly longer trail that did not go through the monastery on the way to Peñalba. This makes sense especially if your destination that day is the monastery, because you would avoid an “up and back” on a fairly difficult part of the journey. I made notes on the wikiloc tracks to show the point at which the tracks took you essentially through fields to connect one established trail with another. It was short, sweet, and pretty wet. And the trail up to Peñalba from the river was steep but manageable.

But if you compare the two tracks of the ways I’ve walked you can see the diffrences in elevation gain are not trivial. I was surprised to see that my 2024 route had more elevation than my 2014 route. But I may not be comparing apples to apples. I frankly am not sure about how to compute the elevation gain of a track that is shown and was walked in one direction, when you want to walk it in the opposite direction. (I think the answer is that the elevation loss becomes the gain, so you can get a decent idea, but I’m not sure). In any event, I think that elevation gain and steepness on mountain stages is a more important indicator of difficulty than distance.

Another option would be to walk to the monastery, leave your packs and walk the up and back to Peñalba without packs. But as I said, there is a part of the trail between Peñalba and the monastery that is rocky and may have a lot of water. You would have to do that twice if you did the monastery-dropoff option.

The absolute most relaxing way to walk this would be to walk day 1 to Peñalba, day 2 to monastery at Valdueza, day 3 to Médulas. But that is more days than you have. The day from Valdueza to Médulas has no rocky parts, no dicey river crossings, it is a wide driveable track almost the entire way. It is about 23 from the monastery to the Orellán lookout.

Sorry to be so detailed, but I want to make sure that people who are going to walk this route have a clear idea of the challenges. That’s especially hard to guarantee, when there is only a handful of forum members who have walked it, because our personal impressions are so dependent on weather, fitness level, etc.!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@jungleboy, I knew you had this combo up your sleeve after reading a post you made a few days ago. I have occasionally been interested and wistful of @peregrina2000's thread several years ago when she walked to Penalba on the Valley of Silence with Rebekah Scott. I'd seen it from afar nestled in the distance as a tiny white blob on my first Camino somewhere before reaching El Acebo and it looked intriguing. I think it is too much for me to consider to bite off now, but will definitely look forward to reading what I am sure will be a wonderful write-up and pictures from you...yippee!
I have read there is a bus tour from Ponferrada to visit the Penalba, so if I choose to walk the Inveirno before I get "too old", I will at least do that.

 

[peregrina2000]

7 - Monforte de Lemos - 12.5km (or Piñeiro, 24km, or Vilariño, another 4-ish km)
8 - Chantada - 30.4km (or if from Piñeiro, 18.9km)

I think Monforte is a very nice town, good ambiente, pilgrim office!, good restaurants, nice parks, several albergues (although both are a bit out of the center, one back by the train station and the other about 700 m on the way out according to Gronze). The main tourist attraction, other than the tower and the monastery/parador, is the Colegio de los Escolapios, which has an El Greco and gives tours. I have never visited the colegio/monastery, but that’s because nothing about it has ever really called to me. Of course, everyone has different tastes.

Between Monforte and Chantada, there are some pretty awesome sites. The castro and museum right next to Torre Vilariño, the two miradouros over the Minho that are well signposted (and if you only go to one, I think Miradouro II has marginally better views than Miradouro I), and the Diomondi church. The hospitalera at the new-ish Diomondi albergue has the keys to the church, and will let you in even if you don’t stay there, but she doesn’t arrive on the premises till 1:00. If you leave from Piñeiro or Torre Vilariño, you will get there way too early).

I know that this is a camino and not a tour, but some of these places are just a stone’s throw from the camino and really added to the wonder of the Invierno for me.

 

[VNwalking]

one place to stay there and it's apparently not too flash

No it's definitely not, but you'll live. You've stayed in worse. The even stages it allows make up for the not-niceness.

Would we be 'missing out' by not staying in Monforte de Lemos? Continuing to Piñeiro or Vilariño

I would say no. It was OK, but I thought nothing that extraordinary. Unless you have your hearts set on seeing the El Greco at the monastery.

 

[VNwalking]

Between Monforte and Chantada, there are some pretty awesome sites. The castro and museum right next to Torre Vilariño, the two miradouros over the Minho that are well signposted (and if you only go to one, I think Miradouro II has marginally better views than Miradouro I), and the Diomondi church. The hospitalera at the new-ish Diomondi albergue has the keys to the church, and will let you in even if you don’t stay there, but she doesn’t arrive on the premises till 1:00. If you leave from Piñeiro or Torre Vilariño, you will get there way too early).

Second what Laurie says.
And ... you could drag your feet or have a lazy morning at Torre Vilariño, and get to Diamondi by, say, 12.30. That gives time to take in the outside and then see the inside - and then go down to Belesar and up to Chantada long before dark.

 

[markie6]

@jungleboy, I knew you had this combo up your sleeve after reading a post you made a few days ago. I have occasionally been interested and wistful of @peregrina2000's thread several years ago when she walked to Penalba on the Valley of Silence with Rebekah Scott. I'd seen it from afar nestled in the distance as a tiny white blob on my first Camino somewhere before reaching El Acebo and it looked intriguing. I think it is too much for me to consider to bite off now, but will definitely look forward to reading what I am sure will be a wonderful write-up and pictures from you...yippee!
I have read there is a bus tour from Ponferrada to visit the Penalba, so if I choose to walk the Inveirno before I get "too old", I will at least do that.

never too old

 

[peregrina2000]

You could drag your feet or have a lazy morning at Torre Vilariño, and get to Diamondi by, say, 12.30.

That would also give time to head to the miradouros on the way, though maybe not time to walk your 6km loop (which should change now anyway to include Miradouro II).

then go down to Belesar and up to Chantada long before dark.

This is also very feasible. I got to Diomondi after walking from Monforte and taking the detour out to the miradouros. My plan had been to stay in the albergue there. But when I got there, the sky was darkening, no one else was there, and it just seemed lonely and grey. But the visit to the church was something I had been waiting for for years and it did not disappoint!

AEMET weather was predicting a lot of rain for the next day, and I knew I did not want to walk on the Codos de Belesar down to the Minho in the rain. So I decided to continue on to Chantada. It was a long day, and it did start to rain, but not until after San Pedro de Líncora, thankfully, so I made it fine. I always add pictures to wikiloc tracks so that people can get a sense of more than distance and elevation.

Monforte De Lemos-Mirador de cabo de mundo l and ll - Diomondi - Chantada

Monforte De Lemos-Mirador de cabo de mundo l and ll - Diomondi - Chantada Hiking trail in Monforte de Lemos, Galicia (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

 

[VNwalking]

your 6km loop (which should change now anyway to include Miradouro II).

Yes. No need now that they've tidied up the miradouros! It was nice, but the view was the point. Especially since the next day takes you down to the river.

 

[peregrina2000]

but the view was the point.

Don’t forget those two little romanesque churches! Or was there only one?

 

[VNwalking]

There were two, and one was quite near TV, not far below it. The second was further down in a very very nice setting, picturesque as can be...

 

[VNwalking]

Here's a screenshot of the loop, Laurie, for quick reference; San Martiño is O Priorato on the map, and the little sqiggle that goes into the middle of the circle is the way to Mirador Cabo do Mondo:

Edit...have to add a screen shot.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/finally-the-invierno.62582/

 

[El Cascayal]

to Sobradelo, although there's only one place to stay there and it's apparently not too flash

Yes, the facility is not at all flashy. The reason I stay here is because Manuel and his team are so good hearted and so invested in taking care of Peregrin@s. Hot water, comfortable beds, hearty food and tons of goodwill.

Would we be 'missing out' by not staying in Monforte de Lemos?

think Monforte is a very nice town, good ambiente, pilgrim office!, good restaurants, nice parks,

On a hoped for repeat Invierno in October, I too will be following Laurie’s detour on the first day.
Staying in A Pobra at the new albergue will make it a short day to Monforte, so I hope to leave early and spend a couple of hours exploring it.
Monforte de Lemos is another Galician town with deep Jewish roots that are visible yet somewhat hidden. I am looking forward to walking around these seemingly unassuming sites. https://redjuderias.org/monforte-de-lemos-2/
I’m hoping to keep on walking that day on to Vilariño or Diomondi. I love to savor the codos de Belesar, visit the most welcoming Via Romana winery and then cross the stones over the river into Chantada.

 

[jungleboy]

Thanks all! Let me try to get my head around the Monforte-Chantada stretch.

First, Monforte doesn't sound unmissable to me as an overnight stop (El Greco is not a big enough draw). Though the problem with continuing further is that the timing won't be right the next day to see inside this Diomondi church. It's Romanesque, right? I love Romanesque churches and all, but there are hundreds of them. If it were Visigothic that would be another story!

Between Monforte and Chantada, there are some pretty awesome sites.

All the more reason not to make that a 30km day, if there's sightseeing and detours involved too.

If we stay at either Piñeiro or Torre Vilariño, it sounds like we could see the castro and the miradouro in the morning of the next day and then continue to Chantada. That seems like the best option to me even though we'd miss the church. Or do VN's 'lazy morning' option and still see the church.

 

[Filippo05ff]

I found an amazing walk going up to the Mirador de Orellan over the roman mines of Las Medulas from Villavieja. The path is almost good but not marked. I talk with a Canadian pilgrim some days before starting the Invierno and he showed me a camino app with this route. I think it was wise pilgrim. Anyway I recorded my walk (the track is not perfect but I hope it could help: in a point before Borrenes I made a mistake and before PDF I forgot to restart after a pause). Over the mirador de Orellan you can go straight to Puente de Domingo Flores, passing through Mirador de Pedrices (if I knew this before going down to Las Medulas I would have done this).

 

[El Cascayal]

the timing won't be right the next day to see inside this Diomondi church.

Nick, here’s a description of Diomondi. It is wonderful outside & more spectacular inside. The albergue is a modern renovated space. Has a microwave & fridge. Need to bring your own food.
It is gorgeous to sleep there at night. Eerie too, my bed was above some tombs. Hope you get to see it, Aymarah

Iglesia de San Paio de Diomondi​

La iglesia de San Paio de Diomondi se alza en un emplazamiento de gran belleza junto a la Ribeira Sacra del Miño, en las cercanías de Belesar y O Saviñao, encontrándose a una distancia de 78 km al sur de Lugo.

La actual parroquial de Diomondi fue en su origen el templo abacial de un antiguo monasterio benedictino que puede tener su origen en el S. X, aunque el templo que se conserva en la actualidad está fechado en el S. XII. La iglesia fue dedicada a San Paio (San Pelayo), un joven cristiano martirizado por Abderramán III el día 26 de junio del año 925, pasó cuatro años en calidad de rehén en la ciudad de Córdoba, el rescate no fue pagado por su tío, el obispo de Tuy.

Descripción de la obra:​

San Paio de Diomondi es una construcción que sobresale del ámbito del románico rural gallego por sus notables dimensiones, elementos arquitectónicos y detalles ornamentales. Aún así presenta una gran semejanza con la cercana iglesia de Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño.

La iglesia de San Paio de Diomondi presenta nave única que queda rematada en un ábside que responde al canon gallego de dos tramos. La imagen nos ofrece una vista de la bellísima portada que se abre en la fachada occidental, su abocinamiento se forma con cuatro arquivoltas semicirculares que están decoradas con baquetón y escocias con rosetas. Las arquivoltas se sustentan mediante dos pares de esbeltas columnas de mármol a cada lado. Los capiteles lucen motivos animalísticos. El tímpano no presenta decoración y se apoya en dos mochetas que nos muestran unas curiosas cabezas de lobo. En la parte inferior de dicho tímpano,aparece inscrita la fecha de 1170, año de erección de la iglesia.
Edit: above information is from arteviajero.com

 

[Filippo05ff]

Another thing...
We did the same Dornelas - Reina Lupa stage, but we climb the Pico Sacro. The first view of Santiago's Cathedral is impressed in my memories

 

[C clearly]

There's one very interesting stage that seems to be sacrificed in the enthusiasm to embrace @peregrina2000 's start to the Invierno. You would miss the dramatic approach to Las Medulas - from Villavieja to Orellan and the Galerías, approaching the town of Las Medulas from that direction. (The town of Las Medulas is not very interesting itself, unless you walk back up to the Mirador.)

The Orellan route that @Filippo05ff describes in post #16 is probably this one from Borrenes. (I cannot open the attachments to his post.) It is now shown on various maps/apps, including (I think) Wise Pilgrim. We had quite a bit of discussion on it on other threads.

Maybe you can work out some combo, but you might need to take some time from later in your walk. I just didn't want this truly unique part of the Invierno to land on the cutting floor without due consideration! Romanesque churches are a dime a dozen on the Caminos, compared to Roman gold strip mines.

​

 

[Filippo05ff]

There's one very interesting stage that seems to be sacrificed in the enthusiasm to embrace @peregrina2000 's start to the Invierno. You would miss the dramatic approach to Las Medulas - from Villavieja to Orellan and the Galerías, approaching the town of Las Medulas from that direction. (The town of Las Medulas is not very interesting itself, unless you walk back up to the Mirador.)

The Orellan route that @Filippo05ff describes in post #16 is probably this one from Borrenes. It is now shown on various maps/apps, including (I think) Wise Pilgrim. We had quite a bit of discussion on it on other threads.

Maybe you can work out some combo, but you might need to sacrifice a day from later. I just didn't want this truly unique part of the Invierno to land on the cutting floor without due consideration! Romanesque churches are a dime a dozen on the Caminos, compared to Roman gold strip mines.

​

I have changed the file because the first one was of the day after

 

[C clearly]

I have changed the file because the first one was of the day after

I can't open them.

 

[peregrina2000]

There's one very interesting stage that seems to be sacrificed in the enthusiasm to embrace @peregrina2000 's start to the Invierno. You would miss the dramatic approach to Las Medulas - from Villavieja to Orellan and the Galerías,

That’s not quite right. The trail I took does not go through the town of Orellán, but it does go straight to the mirador and the galerías. The descent to the town of Las Médulas comes after that.

Monasterio de San Pedro de Montes - Mirador de Orellán- Puente Domingo, Flores

Monasterio de San Pedro de Montes - Mirador de Orellán- Puente Domingo, Flores Hiking trail in Montes de Valdueza, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Looking at the map on Wikiloc, it looks like the trail I took must join up with the alternative through Orellán a few kms before the mirador.

But they would miss the lovely little hamlet of Villavieja and the castle of Cornatel.

 

[Filippo05ff]

I can't open them.

It's a .gpx file. You can open it with an app like Osmand or Trekarta, but there are many others. If others has the same issue I will try to change the format in some days (when I go back home)

 

[peregrina2000]

If we stay at either Piñeiro or Torre Vilariño, it sounds like we could see the castro and the miradouro in the morning of the next day and then continue to Chantada.

A few more nitpicky points. The CR in Piñeiro, which I am not familiar with, is 750 m off camino according to gronze. I don’t see any advantage to foregoing a chance to stay in Torre Vilariño, the very first Casa Rural in Galicia (or maybe Spain), inaugurated by none other than the one and only Fraga Iribarne (a Franco henchmen, but we’ll let that slide). Anyway, Torre Vilariño is very nice, even has a pool, and the food is good. Go for the step-up from the pilgrim meal. They do serve some tour groups, but it won’t interfere with the very nice ambience. People are

And the castro — if you stay at Torre Vilariño, you should get over to the castro and the museum in the afternoon. The castro is behind the gate to the museum, though I was told by a neighbor to just open the gate and to go up, which I did. The people in Torre Vilariño said that probably wasn’t a great idea. The castro has a nice view of the Minho below. If you sleep in Torre Vilariño, the museum will be closed when you leave, unless you sleep in all morning!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I will definitely be checking out this thread if I do the Inveirno next; lots of good info already...maybe I will rethink walking in France or Italy next and set it aside...we shall see.
I hope it is less difficult than walking to Penalba and back.

 

[peregrina2000]

I will definitely be checking out this thread if I do the Inveirno next; lots of good info already.

And don’t forget our planning thread and for a 25 km or less Invierno.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

And don’t forget our planning thread and release for a 25 km or less Invierno.

Wow, that's an old one from 2021!
I will take a look and even Nick may find a few gems on there if he takes a look with a fine tooth comb.
Thanks!

 

[VNwalking]

VN, you mean the Inveirno is not a flat path in a straight line?! Weren't you just "walking in circles"?

That map's the Torre Vilariño loop that Laurie was talking about.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, that's an old one from 2021!

Three years ago, done in COVID confinement. It was one of the many planning threads we did when we were under lockdown. They were a lot of fun.

 

[C clearly]

That’s not quite right. The trail I took does not go through the town of Orellán, but it does go straight to the mirador and the galerías. The descent to the town of Las Médulas comes after that.

OK, then that is great! It is worth seeing.

But they would miss the lovely little hamlet of Villavieja and the castle of Cornatel.

Agreed, but you can't do everything all at once, so I'd accept this tradeoff.

 

[jungleboy]

So to confirm: if we take Laurie’s Valle de Silencio detour we don’t miss anything regarding the Roman mines / views at Medulas?

I am already second-guessing this camino more than any other! I was just thinking after @C clearly ’s post that maybe doing the regular route might be best because we’d gain a day to play with somewhere along the way, and we could save the Valle de Silencio for another time.

 

[AlanSykes]

Would we be 'missing out' by not staying in Monforte de Lemos?

If you’re interested in paintings, Nosa Señora da Antiga has some belters. An early serene el Greco portrait of San Lorenzo coupled with a meditative sombre later one of San Francisco. Vaut le voyage, as the Michelin guides used to say. Also several fabulous Andrea del Sartos, especially the voluptuous Santas Caterina and Magdalena (”the same perfect brow, and perfect eyes, and more than perfect mouth”). Gorgeous. I believe they’ve been reframed and rehung since I last saw them 5 or 6 years ago, so they are a central ambition of my 2024 camino. I can’t imagine walking the Invierno without seeing them.

 

[peregrina2000]

so they are a central ambition of my 2024 camino.

Calling all @alansykes aficionados. Here is our first clue about Alan’s Camino 2024!

 

[Ernie Fraser]

Hello Invierno veterans!

@Wendy Werneth and I are a few weeks away from our Invierno, starting 19 June. I have long wanted to combine the Invierno with the Olvidado (dating back to a 2018 conversation over a glass of wine or two in Lisbon with @peregrina2000) but we never managed to fit this into our camino schedule. We only have time for a short camino this year and with all the 'do it now before it gets discovered!' talk around the Invierno, we thought it wise to follow that order, and quick-smart!

We have 13 walking days, though it's possible, but not preferable, that we could extend it to 14. Wendy starts an advanced Galego course in SdC on the 15th day, so it would be nice for that not to be the day after we arrive.

We'd like to include some of Laurie's Valle del Silencio prelude at the beginning because it sounds great. Her two-day itinerary fits our timeframe but that would likely mean three straight 27km days out of the gate, which is manageable but we would prefer a bit less walking. Two options to reduce this load while staying on a 13-day schedule are (a) do the two-day prelude and then a shorter third day to Sobradelo, although there's only one place to stay there and it's apparently not too flash, or (b) do a three-day prelude, but that would mean making up a day elsewhere, possibly a long final day into SdC. What say you?

Other questions:

- Would we be 'missing out' by not staying in Monforte de Lemos? Continuing to Piñeiro or Vilariño would be a much better division of those days than the Gronze 12.5 + 30.4 split.

- Are there any accommodation/restaurants that you would recommend in particular?

Possible stages (including two-day prelude):

1 - Ponferrada - Montes de Valdueza 27km
2 - Médulas - 27km
3 - O Barco de Valdeorras - 27.2km (Or Sobradelo, 19km)
4 - A Rúa de Valdeorras - 12.0km (Or 20.2km if coming from Sobradelo)
5 - Quiroga - 26.5km
6 - A Pobra do Brollón - 22.9km
7 - Monforte de Lemos - 12.5km (or Piñeiro, 24km, or Vilariño, another 4-ish km)
8 - Chantada - 30.4km (or if from Piñeiro, 18.9km)
9 - Rodeiro - 25.4km
10 - Lalín - 21.9km
11 - Dornelas (Casa Leiras) - 27.8km (we stopped here for a drink on our Sanabrés and would love to stay the night this time)
12 - Deseiro (Reina Lupa) - 17.5km
13 - SdC - 12km

And finally: is there anywhere in Ponferrada to buy a wooden pilgrim staff?

Here is the link to my blog on the Invierno when a friend and I walked it in 2022. I was 74 years of age then and my friend a bit younger so we did not walk as long of distances as you're planning. There is not a lot of elevation on the route like on some other routes, but there is a lot of up and down in places so the accumulated ascent is notable. My blog has a list of places where we stayed. We actually started in Astorga and then shifted to the start of the Invierno in Ponferrada. We took a break/rest day in Montforte de Lemos. Nice town with interesting history, but you would not miss a lot by missing it. I'd recommend stopping in the Camino office there - just a few years old and in the centre. https://erniefraser.blogspot.com/

 

[peregrina2000]

Here is the link to my blog on the Invierno when a friend and I walked it in 2022

Thanks for the link to the blog. There’s a lot of practical info there as well as nice pictures.

I have one question about your lodging. You stayed in Pensión Victoria on your last night before Santiago. I had never heard of anyone staying there (but it is on Gronze, so I just haven’t been paying attention). Looks like a nice place, about 2 km beyond the Pensión Cruceiro and Carrefour on the national highway.

Two questions —

Did you choose the Victoria over the Cruceiro (or other places in Ponte Ulla) for some reason or was it just what you found available?

And how did you get back to the camino from the pensión? Did you have to backtrack or can you just cut over somehow? Looks like a straight shot on Gronze, but you never know.

Muchas gracias, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Ernie Fraser]

Thanks for the link to the blog. There’s a lot of practical info there as well as nice pictures.

I have one question about your lodging. You stayed in Pensión Victoria on your last night before Santiago. I had never heard of anyone staying there (but it is on Gronze, so I just haven’t been paying attention). Looks like a nice place, about 2 km beyond the Pensión Cruceiro and Carrefour on the national highway.

Two questions —

Did you choose the Victoria over the Cruceiro (or other places in Ponte Ulla) for some reason or was it just what you found available?

And how did you get back to the camino from the pensión? Did you have to backtrack or can you just cut over somehow? Looks like a straight shot on Gronze, but you never know.

Muchas gracias, buen camino, Laurie

I had stayed there in 2019 and one of my Camino friends booked it then. It was clean and comfortable and has good food. It is off route a short distance but it was easy to find. In 2019 we walked along a highway with a very wide shoulder so no concern about cars. It wasn’t a matter of choosing this over other places; it was about going back to a known place. It is up long hillI so starting the next morning was easier. I hope this helps.

 

[jungleboy]

Thanks again everyone for your suggestions and advice above!

I was just thinking after @C clearly ’s post that maybe doing the regular route might be best because we’d gain a day to play with somewhere along the way, and we could save the Valle de Silencio for another time.

In the end this is what we have decided to do. We never really know how bad Wendy's PF is going to be, and given that there seems to be a fair bit of road walking on this camino and road walking exacerbates it more, it's best to play it safe and not try to fit in too much, especially right at the start.

So this is our rough outline at the moment:

1 - Ponferrada - Villavieja - 16.1km
2 - Puente de Domingo Flórez - 19.9km
3 - O Barco de Valdeorras - 19km
4 - A Rúa de Valdeorras - 12.0km
5 - Quiroga - 26.5km
6 - A Pobra do Brollón - 22.9km
7 - Piñeiro - 24km (or a bit further to Vilariño)
8 - Chantada - 18.9km
9 - Rodeiro - 25.4km
10 - Lalín - 21.9km
11 - Dornelas (Casa Leiras) - 27.8km (or Bandeira 22.8km)
12 - Outeiro - 21.8km or 16.8km from Bandeira
13 - SdC - 16.7km with possible Pico de Sacro side trip

Critiques welcome!

A few points/questions:

- We thought an easy first day would be a good idea and that sets us up for morning views from the Orellán viewpoint, which is hopefully a good time of day for it. Is there a reason to go a bit further to Borrenes instead of staying at Villavieja?
- What about the alternative from Borrenas? If we're not staying in Las Médulas, it seems like the alternative makes sense as it goes straight to the lookout, right?
- As discussed upthread, I like the idea of going past Monforte to have a shorter walking day into Chantada, to do the mirador detour and also possibly wait for the church at Diomondi.
- We wanted to stay at Casa Leiras in Dornelas but maybe I am giving this too much weight, and staying 5km earlier at Bandeira makes more sense distance-wise. I don't remember Bandeira from our Sanabrés; does anyone have any memories of it?
- Is the Pico de Sacro side trip worthwhile?

 

[Filippo05ff]

- We thought an easy first day would be a good idea and that sets us up for morning views from the Orellán viewpoint, which is hopefully a good time of day for it. Is there a reason to go a bit further to Borrenes instead of staying at Villavieja?
- What about the alternative from Borrenas? If we're not staying in Las Médulas, it seems like the alternative makes sense as it goes straight to the lookout, right?
- As discussed upthread, I like the idea of going past Monforte to have a shorter walking day into Chantada, to do the mirador detour and also possibly wait for the church at Diomondi.
- We wanted to stay at Casa Leiras in Dornelas but maybe I am giving this too much weight, and staying 5km earlier at Bandeira makes more sense distance-wise. I don't remember Bandeira from our Sanabrés; does anyone have any memories of it?
- Is the Pico de Sacro side trip worthwhile?

1- I Loved to stay in Villavieja
2- The alternative goes roughly from Borrenes down to a little river valley and up to the town of Orellàn. Right after you will climb straight to the Mirador and the entrance of the roman cave. Up there you will find marks for several routes arond the area (not camino), one of those passes through Campo de Braña and Mirador the Pedrices and goes down straight to Punte de Domingo Flores (could be an option). From Borrenes to Orellàn the path is not marked and sometimes a little rough.
3- I remember that the Hospitalera told us that you can only visit the church if you sleep there.
4- We find perfect to stay in Dornelas for the Pico Sacro side trip. We did like you, Lalìn - Dornelas, but after we stay at Reina Lupa Albergue (20km from Dornelas with the Pico Sacro detour). Another option could be Rodeiro - A Laxe - Dornelas..? In Bandeiras we passed straight and I don't have particular memoreis about, sorry.
5- My pros: Wonderful view, beautiful location, well managed touristic informations on the QR codes up there, not so far from the main route, perfectly fit in a stage without changing a lot your plan. My cons: the climb is on asphalt and the path we did for the descent is steep and not well mantained, doable with a little patience.
Those are my thoughts. I hope they could be useful for your planning! I hope that some other people will answer you to see other opinions. And please, let us know how your Camino will go!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Is the Pico de Sacro side trip worthwhile?

Yes, Nick, definitely worth a hike up to the Pico Sacro. I wanted to do it, but I had a knee issue my final day into Santiago that had me concerned, so no go for me.
Laurie had posted about her recent pictures and information/map from that hike to the top and it looks like a great little adventure side trip!

P.S. I'm glad you are sharing your research and loose plans for the Inveirno. It will help those of us who consider walking this route to sort out some of the logistics gleaned from your expert planning.

 

[El Cascayal]

I don't remember Bandeira from our Sanabrés; does anyone have any memories of it?

Nick, it’s a small town with 2 hotels: Conde Rey (I’ve always stayed here ) & Victorino both with restaurants; also an albergue. There are bars, grocery stores, farmacias…

 

[trecile]

So this is our rough outline at the moment:

1 - Ponferrada - Villavieja - 16.1km
2 - Puente de Domingo Flórez - 19.9km
3 - O Barco de Valdeorras - 19km
4 - A Rúa de Valdeorras - 12.0km
5 - Quiroga - 26.5km
6 - A Pobra do Brollón - 22.9km
7 - Piñeiro - 24km (or a bit further to Vilariño)
8 - Chantada - 18.9km
9 - Rodeiro - 25.4km
10 - Lalín - 21.9km
11 - Dornelas (Casa Leiras) - 27.8km (or Bandeira 22.8km)
12 - Outeiro - 21.8km or 16.8km from Bandeira
13 - SdC - 16.7km with possible Pico de Sacro side trip

I'm also trying to work out a max 13 day plan for the Invierno.
I've been walking since May 14th (Arles - Aragonés - Francés) and I'm a few days behind my original (loose) schedule because of taking a day off and doing some shorter than planned days when I had a cold. I thought that I had caught up a bit, but yesterday I started having shin pain and I decided that 32.5 km from León to Hospital de Órbigo wasn't a good idea, so I only walked about 10 km today, and fortunately had zero pain.

The plan all along was to decide on Invierno vs Francés when I reach Ponferrada, and both options are still open unless I need to take any more time off. But, if I walk the Invierno it has to be 13 days or less and without any really long days.

 

[peregrina2000]

I know you would love Peñalba but I get your rationale - and for a first Invierno, it’s nice to be on the “official” route the whole way.

I haven’t stayed either in Villavieja or Borrenes, but I think it just depends on whether you want to carry food and stay in a cute little village, or be in a hotel where they feed you. If you want to visit the castle at Cornatel (a few kms above Borrenes), it won’t likely be open when you pass by from Villavieja, but more likely open if you have started from Ponferrada. Google says it’s open 11-2 and 4-8, closed Monday and Tuesday. Not tremendously interesting on the inside, but I love to climb around castles.

I have walked the alternative from Borrenes, which some found tricky (it was fine when I went, not too overgrown). Others have taken a different alternative from right at the turnoff to the castle. It also winds up at the mirador, but does not go to Borrenes. I would do that one, rather than the one from Borrenes. Some recent forum discussion on it, use “La Chana” to search. So that would be one reason not to stay in Borrenes.

If you are not going to stop in Las Médulas, the village really doesn’t have much going on, but it’s touristy. The museum at the entrance to town (if you come in on the standard camino) is very interesting. The galerías can be visited, but the entrance is close to the mirador. From the mirador, you will have to descend to the outskirts of the village (through a forest with some chestnuts), go past Agoga, and then back up and on the route to Puente Domingo Flórez. That means you won’t walk through the formations at ground level, which is also fun, but I would only do that if you are staying in Médulas. There is a route that doesn’t involve a descent to the outskirts of town, but it is longer and meanders around a field for kms. I will hunt for a map of the trails and post it later.

There are two miradouros after Torre Vilariño. You probably won’t want to take VN’s loop, which doesn’t go to the newer, second miradouro, but I think the views are marginally better from Miradouro I than Miradouro II, though II has a big viewing platform that is up a flight of stairs.

I haven’t stayed at Casa Leiras, but have had a cold drink there and had a very nice chat with the wife. I’m sure you know the owners are Italian, and they do cook dinner! I have stayed in Bandeira serveral times, it’s smaller than Silleda but has all services. It was a great starting point for my next day out to the waterfalls and the Carboeiro monastery, but it doesn’t have much going on really. The Albergue there is modern and there are a few hotels.

The turn-off for Pico Sacro is right after the Outeiro monastery, but it is all on roads. No cars, but all asphalt. The off-road descent was very brambly when I went so I just stayed on the road up and back. You do not have to go all the way back to Outeiro to continue on the camino, you can just walk to Lestedo from the turn-off for Pico Sacro. You can see the cathedral spires from up top. I went up just because I had seen it from afar on so many caminos, popping out at me when I didn’t expect it. And it is so connected to Santiago (referred to as his first burial place). The Reina Lupa legend is very easy to imagine up there with the huge fissure in the rock and the caves, but more than anything it was just a beautiful spot for sitting. It was deserted, which surprised me, and the views were just as you would imagine - kind of like the ones from Monte Faro but from a much more pronounced point on top.

Looks like you will be starting one week from today! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

Here is the map of the trails at Médulas.


If you walk in on the official Camino, you come in where the big P is. If you take any of the alternatives (from Borrenes, from the Cornatel castle, or from the Monastery of Valdueza) you arrive at the mirador de Orellán. The camino leaves on the upper right hand corner off the red trail.

From the mirador, you can go down on the squiggly light green camino del mirador, go down past the Agoga and then head out on the red trail. Or you can stay up without descending to the village, which is longer but probably faster since the descent on the squiggly trail can be slow depending on if it’s rained, the rocks, etc.

If you are going to stay in Médulas you will probably want to walk the Senda Valiñas (green), which weaves through the weird formations from the bottom.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm also trying to work out a max 13 day plan for the Invierno.
I've been walking since May 14th (Arles - Aragonés - Francés) and I'm a few days behind my original (loose) schedule because of taking a day off and doing some shorter than planned days when I had a cold. I thought that I had caught up a bit, but yesterday I started having shin pain and I decided that 32.5 km from León to Hospital de Órbigo wasn't a good idea, so I only walked about 10 km today, and fortunately had zero pain.

The plan all along was to decide on Invierno vs Francés when I reach Ponferrada, and both options are still open unless I need to take any more time off. But, if I walk the Invierno it has to be 13 days or less and without any really long days.

@trecile,
I think Nick’s 13 stages should suit you fine. You can shorten day 11 by stopping in Bandeira, and that leaves only the day into Quiroga at more than 25. That day from A Rúa to Quiroga can be shortened by some walking and training options. There’s lots of discussion of this on the forum, but basically you could walk to A Rúa, deposit your pack (but not if you’re staying in the albergue, which only opens at 4), walk on to Montefurado (about 10 kkm) and then get the train back to A Rúa. Next day train to Montefurado and carry on.

Hope those shins are ok — stretch, stretch, stretch, and ice, ice, ice.

 

[El Cascayal]

Here is the map of the trails at Médulas.

View attachment 172230
If you walk in on the official Camino, you come in where the big P is. If you take any of the alternatives (from Borrenes, from the Cornatel castle, or from the Monastery of Valdueza) you arrive at the mirador de Orellán. The camino leaves on the upper right hand corner off the red trail.

From the mirador, you can go down on the squiggly light green camino del mirador, go down past the Agoga and then head out on the red trail. Or you can stay up without descending to the village, which is longer but probably faster since the descent on the squiggly trail can be slow depending on if it’s rained, the rocks, etc.

If you are going to stay in Médulas you will probably want to walk the Senda Valiñas (green), which weaves through the weird formations from the bottom.

Laurie this map is very cool, but it is turned in wrong direction. Mirador de Orellan is east of Las Médulas.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie this map is very cool, but it is turned in wrong direction. Mirador de Orellan is east of Las Médulas.

Yes, I see the compass on the right. But I’m not sure how that makes any difference — are you one of those people who has google maps on “true north” all the time? I just like to see it as I am walking or driving, and I think the orientation of this map does that. BTW, it wasn’t me who set the orientation, that’s the way the map is displayed on every site I’ve seen.

 

[jungleboy]

Great answers, thank you all! Firstly I just discovered the thread about the Borrenes alternative so there's good info there. I'd say there's no reason not to do it!

1- I Loved to stay in Villavieja

I see @Robo did as well, so this sounds like a great option.

4- We find perfect to stay in Dornelas for the Pico Sacro side trip. We did like you, Lalìn - Dornelas, but after we stay at Reina Lupa Albergue (20km from Dornelas with the Pico Sacro detour). Another option could be Rodeiro - A Laxe - Dornelas..?

Good options, thanks. We will play it by ear and decide how to do these stages when we get near the end.

Yes, Nick, definitely worth a hike up to the Pico Sacro. I wanted to do it, but I had a knee issue my final day into Santiago that had me concerned, so no go for me.

We'll see how Wendy feels about an asphalt climb on the day!

I'm also trying to work out a max 13 day plan for the Invierno.

I hope your shin feels better soon. FYI we'll be in Ponferrada on Tuesday afternoon and start walking on Wednesday in case we happen to be in sync.

I know you would love Peñalba but I get your rationale - and for a first Invierno, it’s nice to be on the “official” route the whole way.

Exactly.

I haven’t stayed either in Villavieja or Borrenes, but I think it just depends on whether you want to carry food and stay in a cute little village, or be in a hotel where they feed you. If you want to visit the castle at Cornatel (a few kms above Borrenes), it won’t likely be open when you pass by from Villavieja, but more likely open if you have started from Ponferrada. Google says it’s open 11-2 and 4-8, closed Monday and Tuesday. Not tremendously interesting on the inside, but I love to climb around castles.

It looks like the castle is a short walk from Villavieja? So I/we could go as a side walk in the afternoon. And carrying food on camino is our speciality so no problem there!

I haven’t stayed at Casa Leiras, but have had a cold drink there and had a very nice chat with the wife. I’m sure you know the owners are Italian, and they do cook dinner!

We did the same, and that's why we wanted to go back. But I guess the appeal of Italian speakers is not as high as it once was because we are surrounded by them now!

I have stayed in Bandeira serveral times, it’s smaller than Silleda but has all services.

Good to know, thanks. For the last portion we would like to stay in more rural places and fewer towns as that's always better (IMO) in the last 100km. We stayed in Silleda and wished we'd stayed somewhere rural instead, which is one of the attractions of Casa Leiras. We'll weigh it up on the day I guess.

Looks like you will be starting one week from today! Buen camino, Laurie

That's scarily soon!!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@peregrina2000, I know you are a wealth of knowledge on most of the Camino paths less traveled, yet nearly every time I happen upon your new posts which are always so helpful, I am still amazed at the breadth of your knowledge. Your posts on this thread are exactly what I speak of.

 

[El Cascayal]

Yes, I see the compass on the right. But I’m not sure how that makes any difference — are you one of those people who has google maps on “true north” all the time? I just like to see it as I am walking or driving, and I think the orientation of this map does that. BTW, it wasn’t me who set the orientation, that’s the way the map is displayed on every site I’ve seen.

Don’t we usually orient ourselves right to left? IE: Gronze maps, Buen Camino…

 

[peregrina2000]

It looks like the castle is a short walk from Villavieja? So I/we could go as a side walk in the afternoon. And carrying food on camino is our speciality so no problem there!

The bulk of the ascent is before Villavieja. You will retrace your steps on the next day, but an afternoon stroll up to the castle without a pack would be nice. Nice views, too, from the bench nearby that is advertised, I think, as having the prettiest views in the Bierzo. I think that’s hyperbole, but it’s nice. And you won’t have much to do in Villavieja, unless the Casas Rurales are filled with interesting people.

My fuzzy memory of the history is that Villavieja is where the castle serfs lived. Though it’s below the castle, it is not a strenuous walk up.

@peregrina2000, I know you are a wealth of knowledge on most of the Camino paths less traveled, yet nearly every time I happen upon your new posts which are always so helpful, I am still amazed at the breadth of your knowledge. Your posts on this thread are exactly what I speak of.

Thanks, Chrissy, it’s nice to have something to do with all this useless knowledge I’ve accumulated!

 

[trecile]

I hope your shin feels better soon.

Thanks. I actually had zero pain today on my short walk. I'm just aware that it can flare up again - or something else can happen.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The bulk of the ascent is before Villavieja. You will retrace your steps on the next day, but an afternoon stroll up to the castle without a pack would be nice. Nice views, too, from the bench nearby that is advertised, I think, as having the prettiest views in the Bierzo. I think that’s hyperbole, but it’s nice. And you won’t have much to do in Villavieja, unless the Casas Rurales are filled with interesting people.

My fuzzy memory of the history is that Villavieja is where the castle serfs lived. Though it’s below the castle, it is not a strenuous walk up.



Thanks, Chrissy, it’s nice to have something to do with all this useless knowledge I’ve accumulated!

It's not useless, it's priceless...I love emojis.

 

[El Cascayal]

it’s nice to have something to do with all this useless knowledge

Never, Nooooooo, Not!!!!!!!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Great answers, thank you all! Firstly I just discovered the thread about the Borrenes alternative so there's good info there. I'd say there's no reason not to do it!

Maybe you already saw this, but just in case - there is also a route from the castle that doesn’t go down to Borrenes but goes straight to the mirador.

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas

Villavieja-Orellan-Las Médulas Hiking trail in Villavieja, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Alternativa a la etapa oficial del Camino de invierno.

www.wikiloc.com

I think this is the route @mla1 took.

 

[VNwalking]

Bandeira from our Sanabrés; does anyone have any memories of it?

For the last portion we would like to stay in more rural places and fewer towns

Other than the place for a cafe on the left as you come into town no. I'd stay at Casa Lieres over Bandeira hands down. It really is a nicer place. And it ticks your rural box nicely.

Is there a reason to go a bit further to Borrenes instead of staying at Villavieja?
- What about the alternative from Borrenas? If we're not staying in Las Médulas, it seems like the alternative makes sense as it goes straight to the lookout, right?

I'd say no, because you go gownhill on asphalt to Borrenes from the castle. Somewhere on another thread there was an alternative posted that went straight over to Orellan without dropping down to the road. (Laurie just posted a track...just don't go down to Las Médulas at the end after the mirador if you don'twant to but follow one of the two high alternatives on the other map se posted.)

From the mirador, you can go down on the squiggly light green camino del mirador, go down past the Agoga and then head out on the red trail. Or you can stay up without descending to the village, which is longer but probably faster since the descent on the squiggly trail can be slow depending on if it’s rained, the rocks, etc.

It's a longish descent, and then you'd have to go back up again on the other side. There's not much to see there except the very decent museum and wandering around in the bottom of the mines, which was very pretty.

It looks like the castle is a short walk from Villavieja? So I/we could go as a side walk in the afternoon. And carrying food on camino is our speciality so no problem there!

Yes! Good idea. It's a gentle uphill and gorgeous.

 

[Simperegrina]

@jungleboy i can’t recommend the albergue in Villavieja enough - it’s terrific. From the little balcony of the dorm room, you have views out towards the castle, and the Bierzo mountains in the distance. The castle is a lovely stroll along a tree lined path, to above the castle, then a descent down a path across a banked field to the foot of the castle.

Re Diomondi, someone up the thread posted that they didn’t think you could get a tour of the church unless you were staying. I certainly did when I stopped by in March en route to Chantada, to take a look at the albergue. The hospi offered to show me the church and unlocked the door from inside the entrance hall. I guess it might depend on how busy there are when you stop by but I can’t imagine they’ll be run off their feet.

Don’t forget to stop by and see Daniel in Lalín!

 

[jungleboy]

Here is the map of the trails at Médulas.

View attachment 172230
If you walk in on the official Camino, you come in where the big P is. If you take any of the alternatives (from Borrenes, from the Cornatel castle, or from the Monastery of Valdueza) you arrive at the mirador de Orellán. The camino leaves on the upper right hand corner off the red trail.

From the mirador, you can go down on the squiggly light green camino del mirador, go down past the Agoga and then head out on the red trail. Or you can stay up without descending to the village, which is longer but probably faster since the descent on the squiggly trail can be slow depending on if it’s rained, the rocks, etc.

Stay up means continuing on the red path from the mirador all the way to the Mirador de Pedrices and then continuing off the map?

Here are the tracks I have, where red is the standard camino and blue is the alternative (with the Mirador de Orellán being near the Entrada a las Gallerías marking). I have drawn in the yellow track which avoids Las Médulas, follows trails to the Mirador de Pedrices (the brown/white binoculars symbol) and rejoins the camino shortly afterwards. So the yellow would be the 'stay up' path?

 

[jungleboy]

I have walked the alternative from Borrenes, which some found tricky (it was fine when I went, not too overgrown). Others have taken a different alternative from right at the turnoff to the castle. It also winds up at the mirador, but does not go to Borrenes. I would do that one, rather than the one from Borrenes. Some recent forum discussion on it, use “La Chana” to search.

Again where red is the standard camino and blue is the Borrenes alternative, and the castle is near the brown and white viewpoint (binoculars) symbol on the right, my drawn yellow path here would approximate the Chana alternative?

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Hi Jungleboy,
Excellent idea to walk to the Mirador Orellán, it is a really stunning view.

I walked directly from Villavieja to mirador Orellan this spring. You can walk from the village Villavieja to Paradela on a signposted path which starts in the village Villavieja. It is part of a walking route and there is a information display of this route in the village. So there is no need to walk to the castle and start through the fields to Paradela.

From Paradela I walked the yellow path in your map above, to La Chana. In La Chana you walk a short bit on the road towards Orellán, and after about 1 km there is a path going left directly to Orellán, the orange path in your map. Easy to find. The last bit of this path, the climb to Orellán, is less travelled and may be overgrown in summer. In Orellán there is a sign posted nice path to the Mirador.
After the Mirador it is a steep downhill to the village. Total km’s about 14.
No services. No dogs when I walked. Very beautyful!

The Albergue Villavieja is wonderfull and you can visit the castle for free if you bring your credecial and ask for a stamp. Nice views towards Ponferrada. Short easy walk from the Albergue.

 

[peregrina2000]

You can walk from the village Villavieja to Paradela on a signposted path which starts in the village Villavieja. It is part of a walking route and there is a information display of this route in the village. So there is no need to walk to the castle and start through the fields to Paradela.

I’m trying to keep track, and I think this is now the fourth option.

1. standard camino from Borrenes
2. alternative from Borrenes up to Mirador
3. alternative from Cornatel Castle through La Chana to Mirador
4. Villavieja to Paradela to Mirador

It may seem confusing from afar, but when you’re actually there, I don’t think there will be a problem.

 

[jungleboy]

Hi Jungleboy,
Excellent idea to walk to the Mirador Orellán, it is a really stunning view.

Thank you, great tips!

 

[VNwalking]

Stay up means continuing on the red path from the mirador all the way to the Mirador de Pedrices and then continuing off the map?

So the yellow would be the 'stay up' path?

Yes. and there are two options up there. One that goes more or less,along the top of thr ridge above Las Médulas

And one that goes behind the ridge - the part I followed (not all the way) was a gravel road.


The museum guy told me the other path was his favorite but not for the faint of heart.

 

[C clearly]

So the yellow would be the 'stay up' path?

But there are also several well-marked paths from the Mirador down to the village. They are somewhat steep and might be slippery when wet, but they are quite nice. One of them passes by the Cuevona, which you can no longer enter. Then you can just pass through Las Medulas and continue on to Puente.

 

[jungleboy]

But there are also several well-marked paths from the Mirador down to the village. They are somewhat steep and might be slippery when wet, but they are quite nice. One of them passes by the Cuevona, which you can no longer enter. Then you can just pass through Las Medulas and continue on to Puente.

Good to know but it seems longer to go to the village and I’m not sure what it adds?

 

[peregrina2000]

Re Diomondi, someone up the thread posted that they didn’t think you could get a tour of the church unless you were staying. I certainly did when I stopped by in March

That was my experience as well. She was happy to pick up the key and walk the 10 m to open the door of the church, which has an entrance directly from the albergue.

There is a hospitalera in Diomondi every day from 1 pm till maybe as late as 10 pm, I believe, and I would imagine they welcome the opportunity to have something to do. The woman I spoke with (there are two who alternate) tells me the numbers are very low.

 

[peregrina2000]

Good to know but it seems longer to go to the village and I’m not sure what it adds?

I don’t think it’s actually that much longer, but it does have a descent that can be tricky in wet weather. And if you are on the blue trail (I’m referring to the Médulas map I posted, incorrectly oriented as it may be), you will go right by the Mirador de las Pedrices, which is not as spectacular a view as from Orellán, but it is on the way to the camino.

 

[C clearly]

I don’t think it’s actually that much longer

You can see from regular maps that there are at least 2 circular walking circular routes for day visitors. One route down would not be much longer than the one that avoids the town. You can just decide at the moment.

By the way, I am one who found the museum less than impressive, so that is not a good reason to go through the town. Stopping for a drink at Agoga would be a better reason.

 

[peregrina2000]

By the way, I am one who found the museum less than impressive

I think you are talking about the visitors center and not the museum. The visitors center is very close to Hotel Rural Agoga. I agree that it doesn’t have much (but they do have a sello!).

I have always written about how much I liked the museum located at the entrance to town — near the parking lot and right before the Hotel Medulio as you come in on the official camino. But I am sad to report that according to google maps, it is permanently closed. I can’t imagine why. It was called the Aula Arqueólogica de las Médulas and had a lot of displays and a video that I found fascinating.

That place was worth a detour, but not the visitors center. Sadly it’s gone.

 

[El Cascayal]

One of them passes by the Cuevona, which you can no longer enter.

This is so disappointing. I was so hoping to go here in October & on to La Encantada. Do you know why entrance is not allowed? I just emailed their cultural center for more information when I read your comment. Aymarah

 

[C clearly]

Do you know why entrance is not allowed?

I think it was for safety reasons - rock fall, etc.

 

[VNwalking]

I think you are talking about the visitors center and not the museum. The visitors center is very close to Hotel Rural Agoga. I agree that it doesn’t have much (but they do have a sello!).

I really liked the museum near the bottom entrance to the village. And got a lot of advice from the docent there about day walks. But closed!? Bummer.

 

[El Cascayal]

I think it was for safety reasons - rock fall, etc.

I emailed the Médulas center who referred me to Fundación Las Médulas. Both responded quickly.
“El acceso a Cuevona y Encantada no está aconsejado por riesgo de desprendimientos.”
As you said, not recommended due to risk of falling rock.

 

[peregrina2000]

“El acceso a Cuevona y Encantada no está aconsejado por riesgo de desprendimientos.”

Not recommended is not the same as prohibited.

Reminds me of an experience I had in Portugal. There were a lot of cars parked outside a big shopping mall and it was unclear to me whether parking was allowed or not. I asked the policeman nearby and his response was “Não está nem prohibido nem permitido.”

As a lover of clear rules, I found this answer quite unsatisfactory, but it did give me a good window into some societal norma.

 

[El Cascayal]

Not recommended is not the same as prohibited.

Splitting hairs, Counselor?
And how many Peregrinas actually follow directions?

 

[C clearly]

Not recommended is not the same as prohibited

I completely agree. However, as I recall, the sign and fencing on site at the cave clearly indicated that entry was prohibited.

 

[El Cascayal]

I completely agree. However, as I recall, the sign and fencing on site at the cave clearly indicated that entry was prohibited.

Language is so interesting. I quoted what I was sent in response to my question, are the caves open?
You clearly () remember a barrier that prohibited entrance.
I can’t wait to visit & at least take a good , or two.

 

[Ernie Fraser]

Thanks for the link to the blog. There’s a lot of practical info there as well as nice pictures.

I have one question about your lodging. You stayed in Pensión Victoria on your last night before Santiago. I had never heard of anyone staying there (but it is on Gronze, so I just haven’t been paying attention). Looks like a nice place, about 2 km beyond the Pensión Cruceiro and Carrefour on the national highway.

Two questions —

Did you choose the Victoria over the Cruceiro (or other places in Ponte Ulla) for some reason or was it just what you found available?

And how did you get back to the camino from the pensión? Did you have to backtrack or can you just cut over somehow? Looks like a straight shot on Gronze, but you never know.

Muchas gracias, buen camino, Laurie

Apology for my delayed response - I’ve been traveling. We choose the Victoria because we had stayed there in 2019 as we were finishing the Sanabres. Both times we chose it on Booking.com. One thing that influenced the decision was that it’s near the top of the hill/ascent and not have that to start the ascent the next morning. It is a bit off route but easy to find. I honestly cannot remember if there was much backtracking. If there was, it wasn’t much. It’s modern and comfortable with good food in their bar/restaurant. Hope this is of some help.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'll chime in as we also stayed at the very nice Pension Victoria the night before heading into Santiago a month ago. It was quite easy to find; 22km from Silleda where we stayed the night before, and then 20km the next day to Santiago.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Calling all @alansykes aficionados. Here is our first clue about Alan’s Camino 2024!

Laurie, you, Alan, Nick, and a few others are all way "above my pay grade" on this forum. I am looking at the Invierno, combined with the Ingles, for a potential mid September to mid October Camino, and am just scratching the surface at the moment. I am just starting to look at the sub forum here and taking a look at Gronze...so far, grappling with the Invierno is enough to make my head spin.

 

[peregrina2000]

so far, grappling with the Invierno is enough to make my head spin.

No, no, I think that maybe all our spin-off conversations about diversions, alternatives, backdoor routes, etc make it seem more complicated than it is. The Invierno is no different than any other camino that goes from starting point to Santiago. It’s just that after you’ve done it a couple of times, the familiarity makes it easy to envision alternatives and ways to see some lovely places with just a slight detour. You’re a veteran, Chris, and I think that if you start with either Brierley or our old forum guide (now also on Michael’s WisePilgrim app in addition to our resourcess page, I think), you’ll get set up with stages and then the Invierno groupies will start showering you with alternative options. You know exctly what your comfort zone is for a daily stage, so that will make it pretty straightforward, methinks!

And p.s., how lucky is this to have a second camino this year!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I think that if you start with either Brierley or our old forum guide (now also on Michael’s WisePilgrim app in addition to our resourcess page, I think), you’ll get set up with stages

I do have the Brierley guide and ofcourse Gronze for now. I will look at the forum resources guide, too. I am in the very earliest stage of any planning, but in addition to researching I will ask questions as needed.
Thanks for your encouragement.

 

[VNwalking]

@Camino Chrissy , I did it before Brierley and didn't even think to use Gronze. I just had the Forum guide that Laurie and many others here had crowdsourced, and a downloaded track.. And if I can do it you can do it! Honestly, I was pretty spooked by the Invierno because I'd seen the landscape from the train between Monforte and Ponferrada. It's - Gorgeous, but...eeek.

Fortunately it's not nearly as scary as it looks. Challenging in places, but hey - you did the Sanabres. You're good to go.
(And if you're lucky there will be chestnuts.)

 

[BombayBill]

Laurie, you, Alan, Nick, and a few others are all way "above my pay grade" on this forum. I am looking at the Invierno, combined with the Ingles, for a potential mid September to mid October Camino, and am just scratching the surface at the moment. I am just starting to look at the sub forum here and taking a look at Gronze...so far, grappling with the Invierno is enough to make my head spin.

I start Sept 5 ish and think I have a 25 k / day x 13 days for my 70 ish legs. I’ll post once underway.

 

[LTfit]

@Camino Chrissy Gronze has all the information you need for both the Inglés and Invierno. No tracks are needed unless you want to take an alternative route which is not marked. And there have been enough Forum members who have walked this route this year and last should you have any questions.

Lucky you to walk again this year!

 

[jungleboy]

so far, grappling with the Invierno is enough to make my head spin.

We also thought that a bit before our Invierno but eventually everything fell into place. Our next podcast episode (to be published next week) is about Invierno planning, so hopefully it will prove useful!

 

[Kirkie]

We also thought that a bit before our Invierno but eventually everything fell into place. Our next podcast episode (to be published next week) is about Invierno planning, so hopefully it will prove useful!

I have just noticed your thread. Often, in the Dublin Camino Information Centre, prospective pilgrims ask about the Invierno. Indeed, about all of the routes!
I must pay attention to this thread and keep a note of your podcast details, to offer them a link to your experienced words of recommendation. Thanks for your generous sharing, by the way.
(I hope I remember, because I choose to get no alerts, except pm messages.
There are enough of alerts in life!)

 

[Kiwi-family]

I have been putting together a route on this camino (which I have not yet walked myself and so I am finding your suggestions to be invaluable when I can manage to interpret them!) for some friends who do not want to exceed 20km if at all possible. Not too difficult. My main question is whether it is possible (as I have always done) to just walk and decide on the day how far to go/where to stay or whether you need to book a day or two (or more) in advance. The friends speak no Spanish, so would it be worth them booking everything ahead of time and just making sure they keep to their under 20km?

 

[trecile]

. My main question is whether it is possible (as I have always done) to just walk and decide on the day how far to go/where to stay or whether you need to book a day or two (or more) in advance.

I think that would be possible - none of the albergues I stayed in had more than 5 pilgrims, and that was only on one night. Other nights it was just me and a Spanish pilgrim. I did also stay in a few private rooms that I booked a day or so ahead.

 

[Kiwi-family]

The other questions is Casa Rural Torre Vilariño or Diomondi? And given that they have no time limit, is staying overnight at both an option?

 

[trecile]

The other questions is Casa Rural Torre Vilariño or Diomondi? And given that they have no time limit, is both an option?

I stayed at Casa da Vila in Piñeiro, as did @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth. It was a very nice casa rural.

Casa Rural da Vila - Piñeiro (Pantón) | Casa Rural | Gronze.com

Información del Casa Rural Casa Rural da Vila, en Piñeiro (Pantón): precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[VNwalking]

The other questions is Casa Rural Torre Vilariño or Diomondi? And given that they have no time limit, is both an option?

I don't see why not. The two are only 8km apart, so that could count as an active rest day - a day that would allow some exploration around Torre Vilariño (there's a castro and museum next door and some good river views nearby).

 

[Kiwi-family]

I stayed at Casa da Vila in Piñeiro, as did @jungleboy and @Wendy Werneth. It was a very nice casa rural.

Casa Rural da Vila - Piñeiro (Pantón) | Casa Rural | Gronze.com

Información del Casa Rural Casa Rural da Vila, en Piñeiro (Pantón): precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

well THAT doesn't help lol....we don't need MORE options! (But thank you)

 

[trecile]

well THAT doesn't help lol....we don't need MORE options! (But thank you)

The stage with few options is the 26.5 km between A Rúa de Valdeorras and Quiroga

A Rúa de Valdeorras - Quiroga | Camino de Invierno | Gronze.com

Si la etapa anterior era un plácido recorrido por la orilla del Sil, la jornada de hoy se presenta más larga pero sin grandes dificultades, salvo la ausencia de servicios en los pequeños pueblos por los que pasaremos. Nuestra ruta discurrirá casi siempre a media altura, ofreciendo vistas...

www.gronze.com

It looks like the only option to shorten it is to stay in Apartamentos O Muíño in Soldón.
I think that you would have to buy food for lunch and dinner in A Rúa.

 

[peregrina2000]

The other questions is Casa Rural Torre Vilariño or Diomondi? And given that they have no time limit, is staying overnight at both an option?

Yes, the two are very close together, but there is a lot to see and do in between Torre Vilariño and Diomondi. There are two miradouros over the Minho’s iconic horseshoe bend, with a couple of small Romanesque churches nearby. Several years ago, I followed VN’s GPS “loop,” but she recorded it before the second miradouro was built, so there would be some minor adjustment. There is also a museum in an old pazo, and ruins of a castro up on a hill with another great view of the river.

And then of course they would have plenty of time to see the Diomondi church!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Another question from me. I might be able to walk the Levante and then up to Astorga from Zamora before joining the friends mentioned above on the Invierno. I have just walked the Frances and in a moment of emotional desperation vowed never to walk the El Acebo to Molinaseca section again! Of course, I would need to....although through this thread I have linked off to discover the alternative after Riego de Ambros, which certainly called to me. So now I am reminding myself of our first camino in which walking from El Acebo was actually no big deal at all (perhaps because we overnighted there instead of pushing on to Riego)!
But I have also found all sorts of other delightful little detours. Two days from El Acebo to Ponferrada through Valle del Silencio (as per Reb and Laurie)
Is this different to the alternative route from Riego de Ambros or do they overlap?
And how do you get to Penalba and the Monasterio de San Pedro AND still get to start the Invierno in Ponferrada so that you approach Las Medulas from Villavieja/ Orellan? I'm sure I could work this out for myself by opening some maps and plotting some places and tracks, but I suspect there is someone who already just knows and can tell me!

 

[C clearly]

the only option to shorten it

Or walk to Montefurado and take the evening train back to A Rua, then the morning train back to Montefurado.

 

[jungleboy]

The stage with few options is the 26.5 km between A Rúa de Valdeorras and Quiroga

A Rúa de Valdeorras - Quiroga | Camino de Invierno | Gronze.com

Si la etapa anterior era un plácido recorrido por la orilla del Sil, la jornada de hoy se presenta más larga pero sin grandes dificultades, salvo la ausencia de servicios en los pequeños pueblos por los que pasaremos. Nuestra ruta discurrirá casi siempre a media altura, ofreciendo vistas...

www.gronze.com

It looks like the only option to shorten it is to stay in Apartamentos O Muíño in Soldón.
I think that you would have to buy food for lunch and dinner in A Rúa.

There is a bar that does food near the apartments: https://maps.app.goo.gl/mPwnq3p5x8LksFGY6?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

We stopped there for a drink and other pilgrims we had met were staying at the apartments and had arranged dinner there IIRC.

 

[peregrina2000]

Is this different to the alternative route from Riego de Ambros or do they overlap?
And how do you get to Penalba and the Monasterio de San Pedro AND still get to start the Invierno in Ponferrada so that you approach Las Medulas from Villavieja/ Orellan?

There are many ways to walk between these points. I have absolutely no drawing skills, but I’m attaching a “map” that shows you how all of these places are connected. I would be hard pressed to pick which of the routes are the most beautiful.

I have walked all of these segments in different combinations, so I can give you plenty of suggestions. How many days do you want to spend in the Valle del Silencio?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Laurie, I think you know that I always wanted to walk or bus to see Penalba. Now I probably will be "so close, yet so far".
Thank you for the surprise PM yesterday offering to help me in any way I need on the Invierno. You will probably be hearing from me soon!

 

[VNwalking]

Of course, I would need to...

No you wouldn't, actually.
There is another way that more or less follows the train route between Astorga and Ponferrada, and avoids all that completely. But the Valle del Silencio idea sounds much much better. Laurie, your schematic is brilliant.

 

[Kiwi-family]

@peregrina2000 and @VNwalking thank you. Both helpful!
That map is really useful.
I copied it (very precisely lol) so that I could add distances (because I had a hunch it might not be to scale - wink) and icons showing accommodation. [Incidentally, the only thing I could find for Penalba was 2.4km away, required a two night minimum stay and cost more than it would cost me to fly to Australia. Reb wrote in another thread that there are guesthouses - I'm just having trouble finding them so far. Is continuing to San Pedro on the same day as walking from Ponferrada or El Acebo reasonable after a look around Penalba?]
Thanks for cutting down my work!
in my research I discovered a wee conflict of information. All the tracks I have found for the Ruta de las Puentes Malpaso have it going from Riego to Molinaseca and not Ponferrada. Could this be true? It would be very good because it would mean getting churros con chocolate just across the bridge in Molinaseca!
If you want to go directly/non-Camino-ly from El Acebo to Ponferrada, it looks like there are all sorts of hills you climb over on trails (according to mapy.cz) from just after the two bridges - or if you don't mind missing the bridges altogether, you could head down the road from Acebo towards Compludo, cross the Rio Maruelo and backtrack towards the Herreria de Compludo and take the track to Espinoso de Compludo, then the road to Ponferrada. Would this work?



Now it/s just a matter of looking at it like one of those puzzles where you try to follow every line without crossing any of them twice!
I would be committed to starting the Invierno from Ponferrada and going via Villavieja, so that rules out the San Pedro to Orellan section.
Lucky this is for 2026!!!