LIVE from the Camino Live Report from VdlP Starting from Seville on 6/20/18

[Youren2010]

Via de la Plata, here I am.

It was a huge surprise and much appreciated that the day started with clouds and few rain drops at Sevilla, it was very pleasant. I took the river route, did coffee stop at Santionce. In order to beat the afternoon heat without visiting Italica, saved the Roman ruins at Zamora and etc. later. Reached destination around noon. Walked with a veteran pilgrim from Sevilla, who returned by bus, saw no one else. At the municipal Albergue at Guillena, I am the only pilgrim, and have the facility completed by myself, basic, but clean and with wifi and kitchen.

I am very happy to be back on the Camino.

The flooded river crossing in Spring was completely dry now. Overall the view was great, especialy Love, love the sunflower fields.

 

[nycwalking]

Thank you post.

Please keep them coming.

Buen camino.

 

[hotelmedicis]

This is great. I had torrential rain almost everyday in March so I am looking forward to your updates regarding how it goes in late June and July. Have a wonderful walk!

 

[pelerine]

I walked it in June - terribly hot. Look forward to your posts! Buen camino!

 

[Kanga]

I'm glad the municipal albergue at Guillena was clean. Good.

 

[lt56ny]

Hope you continue to post. If you do how do I follow your posts? Sorry for being so dumb! I am walking Norte in September. Thinking of VDLP one day. Buen Camino

 

[Youren2010]

Day 2 Castilloblanco, 4.5 hours
I left the Albergue at 6:45am, by 7am it is completely day light, had considered to leave earlier, but was still too dark.

I found a black Deuter sleeping bag under my bed stand table in the morning and left it by the reception. so far that type of sleeping bag is not needed at night, not even a blanket, a bed sheet is enough with full clothing on; however at Tricina in Seville I had to use my light fleece bag, because other girls turned AC on and directly blow on me at the upper bunker. So used once so far.

I know the temerature is on everyone's mind during this season, when I left in the morning it was about 23c/75f, around noon when I arrived it was 33c/93f. It started to heat up around 10am. I am sure in the later afternoon it will definitely be higher.

I was the only pilgrim today, met no one on the trail, had the beautiful municiple Albergue by myself again! It has two big balconys, small kitchen with a dining room, upon arrival immediately served with freshly made cold soup by Thomas, a volunter hospitelo, and more food was offered later. It is very spacious and clean for one person, and the hot shower was great too. It is perfect for me and can not be happier.

So now after eat and wash, I can rest on my bed, listen to my music and write. I am sure there will be hard times, but for now, let me just enjoy one day at a time.

Comparing to my last Camino at the French route in early June to July here is absolutely quiet. I was told after 6/15, number of pilgrims dropped considerably, from peak time 10 to 20, to 1 or 2 now. This is absolutely the advantage coming in low season. there were only 2 young people ahead of me in one day.

2nd, municipal Albergue here generally charges 10 euro, over there it was 5 or 6 euro, more donativo options there as well, but pilgrim menu here was around 8 euro, less expansive so far.
This is the hardest you can get for today.

For following this post, I just clicked a button for following the thread, hope it is not too hard to find. I intend to post my entire trip through Sanabres to Santiago.


Morning view

 

[WildPlace]

Enjoying your updates as i’m walking in September! Buen camino

 

[pelerine]

Very enjoyable to relive VdlP. Thank your for sharing! Buen camino!

 

[Margot Cat]

Enjoying your updates hopefuly cycling in September! Buen camino

 

[Sandra Riordan]

Thank you; loving your posts. I intend walking VDLP starting in early May next year so these posts are really helpful and interesting. While I loved Frances for my first Camino, I found the Portuguese and Norte more to my liking with less pilgrims walking. Am so looking forward to VDLP.

 

[nycwalking]

Thank you post.

Please keep them coming

Buen camino.

 

[Donna Sch]

Nothing like un camino de verano. Love the photos.

 

[Youren2010]

Dear fellow peregrinos, I am glad you like my posts and find it useful.

Day 3, El Real de la Jara, about 26km, 7.5 hours, right now at near 4:30pm, temperature is 32c 90F.

First of all, I have to say, talking about Camino spirit, you need to look no further. I felt so pempered by the volunteer host Thomas, if you ran into him, it is your lucky day, the best host on the Camino ever!

Have you ever run into any host who got up before 5am, toasting bread, making coffer and tea, boiling eggs, and setting up table for 5 pergrinos? Last night before 8pm, rode in 4 Spanish cyclists, they were given downstair room, so I was still able to enjoy the upper room all by myself.

Not only I had one of the best breakfasts, he also given me sandwiches, eggs and tons of oranges for joice and to take on the road. He also has big bottles of ice water for us to take. He is so thoughtful and as a pilgrim himself he had walked all of routes many times and knows exactly what we need.

Where was the stage of Hell?

The taxi he called for me came on the dot on 6:45am, 16.5km later, shortly after 7am I cross the gate of national park and started walking. 3 hours, 12.5km later, I sat at a bar in Almaden drinking coffee and having a snack. The day is still young, the last 4kmish climbing and sharp decent could be a killer if it was long after 12pm and under the burning sun, but this way was nothing much. I do not feel guilty about using a taxi at all.

Left Almaden at 10:40am, walked another 14km, and got to Alojamento de Peregrinos at the Real , the private Albergue right pass the municipal after 2:30pm. I chose this one is because the same price and was given good report. I was given a two person room, but at this low season, I do not feel much difference actually, and probably will get back to municipal.

After 1pm, it was getting more and more difficult due to the heat, had to rest whenever it was possible, used only 2 pieces of energy gelbean, but 2liter water bladder for me was sufficient, only few mouthful left; howevet, I drank 4 cups worth of water before leaving the Albergue, another cup during mid break. Recommend refill water bladder at Almaden if using 2liter bag. Most importantly a reflective trekking umbrella is must. I also have a face mask bought from Amazon for golfer, claimed UV block. Bought right before leaving, used first time. For me it reduced the sense of burning heat, so need to drink less water. Carrying 3 liter is too heavy for me.

I did notice several ponds were accessable, dirty or less dirty along the way, if desperate, water treatment tablets or life straw could be used. The water quality in general is better than the small water holes in US desert as a comparison.

Today it did give me idea how would it be if walking 30km a day, I will definitely leave as early as possible or try to avoid it if the temperature is pass 100F or 40c.

Still comparing to non stop torrential rain, flooded river crossing and muddy road, I would again choose the summer heat. The morning walk is glorious! And clothes dry before going to sleep, especially wearing dry socks and shoes.

You just need to come and be prepared.

 

[Koconn]

Thanks for your email! I found you, and I am and will enjoy hearing about your camino.
Ultreya!

 

[lt56ny]

Great posts thanks

 

[Youren2010]

Day 4 Monasterio, 20k, 6 hours, temperature 90F

Well, the day started nearly 2 hours later than I hoped, over slept, and obviously did not hear my alarm. When I hurried out, it was already 8:20am, which meant I can't get to next Albergue around noon. I left without my usual Coffee con Leche, only 3 cups of water with electrolyte. The sun is already way up high, not a minute to loose.

Today again I did not meet another soul out there walking. I amused myself by focusing on finding a good shot of wild flowers along road side, plenty of them, white, purple, pink, yellow are common colors, only I do not know their names, very limited in this aspect, although I love to look at them.

The good thing is that this stage is almost completely flat. At the intersection with road 66, about 11.5km distance, there is a 24 hours service shop, also has a hotel and restaurant, I reached there before noon in spite of many stops of taking pictures. There was no bench, no stone to sit by the roadside, I found frequent stop admiring flowers and views is a good way to rest.

At the rest stop, I was able to have sandwiches and coffee, in an air conditioned room taking much needed rest.

After this point, camino paralel to the motorway, pretty soon, it was shadeless, while reflective umbrella proven to be useful. With much slower speed, I managed to have a quick stop by the cross before entering town and at 2:30pm found municipal albergue.

I had intended to find the parish one, when I got to the gate, found it was closed for the day and a passerby directed me to municipal, where has several 2 room unites with toilet and hot water shower in it, and 1 bunk bed per room. I was quite surprised.

So far I have not talked to the receptionist, no staff is there yet, but I have sensed more guests staying here, so I will not be alone tonight. This place accepts non pilgrim, so they might not be fellow pilgrims after all.

One consequence of arriving late on a Sunday, which is today is that many shops are closed till tomorrow. After this post, I need to go out to explore the town and search for dinner and food for tomorrow. The next 20km stage has no shop in between. Wish me luck!

 

[Koconn]

Good luck! The flower in the picture, by the way, is what we would call Queen Anne's lace. The little red flower in the center is representative of a drop of blood - from the Queen who pricked her finger with a needle while making the lace!

 

[Walton]

We are following your journey with great interest. Thank you for posting.

Is your umbrella one of those hands free ones, so you can use poles or hand held?

How is the wind?

Buen Camino!

 

[laineylainey]

Great posts thank you. Starting from Mérida in Sept and hope to do first part next Spring.
Love your photos.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 5, Fuente de Cantos 21k 6.5hours
Yes, all of the shops were closed, one restaurant, Bar el Cono at the Los Temelos, pedestrian only street opens and another restaurant by the church opens as well.
what I want to tell you is that right after my post, I walked out of the room and headed out. A voice stopped me at the kitchen, " I bought more food that I could possibly eat, would you like some." So I got more than enough food for tomorrow and a fellow pilgrim as a companion, absolutely one of the camino magics. We were the only two there yesterday and today.

He was 2 day ahead of me, did hell stage, started at 5am in the dark and got to Almaden after 2:30pm, and he is young and strong. it was his rest day at Monsterio, so we met.

I had a huge atun fresh vegetable salad, bread, very tasty lamb potato dishes, and some cherry and water for dinner, 12 euro pilgrim price, with a peach and some bread left to take back.

Today we set out together at 6am in the dark, took breakfast at a road side coffee opened at 6am right on the Camino, left the bar at 6:39am in the day light.

It was shadeless most of the way, wheat fields, but saw one small pond. No service after the breakfast, till 20km away. we made very good pace, reached the municipal Albergue before 12pm, it was such a lovely place, we could picture outself enjoy our meals and hearing the birds sing outside; however, it was locked, a different phone number other than in the book was given, we tried to call, no answer. we walked around the vicinity no one was to be found.

We immediately called the next option apartment, some one answered but the price was 45 euro for 2 of us instead of 15 as stated on the list obtained from the Forum. I asked, are you sure you heard it right? "it was said in English, " I was told.

We decided to walk to tourist info in the city center, here it is out of the way, a complete detour. We found it alright, but again closed, even though it said closing time is 2pm. A resident offered 6km more down the road had another Albergue, we declined. It was getting really hot and our feet hurt. He told us the direction of city hall. It was by the church and right at the corner. We went there first, after all, we could always go to the Apartment.

A staff called the elusive Elena, yes, the number was correct, but still no answer, she called the Apartment on behave of us, were given the same price, finally she said there is also a hotel here. We asked her to call for us, 30 euro for a double room with breakfast at 7am, shared toilet and shower, we took it immediately, 12 mins walk from city center and it has restaurant on site, upstairs basic rooms. It is called Hostal Vincete. Only downside is water for shower was not hot, and lacked pressure. and would love to have AC in the room. It took us nearly a hour to find a room and finally get there, but it was still early, we were not desperate.

A few step further, it is the recommended restaurant, El gato, does daily menu, same price for pilgrim, 9E, not as posted on the window 8E , but both our plates were delicious, waiters were very attentive, we each gave them 10.

There is a Spar super market, 5 mins walk away, not showing on Google map.

Now after the meal, a wash and a nap, I am writing this post.

Tomorrow we will head to Zafra together! So far, we made a good team.

 

[Youren2010]

The trekking umbrella was not a hands free one, but I used a bonge cord attached on the shoulder belt, a small two sides caribiner clipped it and my waiste belt, and rigged it. It was lighter than the hands free one, because the handle was shorter. There are other ways showed online.

I had not tried handsfree one since i ordered through Amazon, the Germany brand.

 

[Youren2010]

I forgot to mention, almost windless. If walking past 2pm, brutal. That is why weekday most shops here close at 2pm, reopen after 5pm, 7pm or even 8pm. Streets are deserted in the afternoon. But after 8pm, I am too tired to get out.

 

[Koconn]

I was thinking of you yesterday, as I walked Chambers Bay in the 65f 'heat'. . Buen Camino!

 

[Bunclody1]

Thank u for your posts, I like them, keep them coming please. Buen Camino

 

[hotelmedicis]

I am enjoying the posts. Thank you. I walked in March. Torrential rain everyday with high winds. There was no way to stay dry. Everyone was wet. I look forward to more of your writing. Thank you.

 

[Tui]

Love your posts, thank you
Buen Camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Via de la Plata, here I am.

It was a huge surprise and much appreciated that the day started with clouds and few rain drops at Sevilla, it was very pleasant. I took the river route, did coffee stop at Santionce. In order to beat the afternoon heat without visiting Italica, saved the Roman ruins at Zamora and etc. later. Reached destination around noon. Walked with a veteran pilgrim from Sevilla, who returned by bus, saw no one else. At the municipal Albergue at Guillena, I am the only pilgrim, and have the facility completed by myself, basic, but clean and with wifi and kitchen.

I am very happy to be back on the Camino.

The flooded river crossing in Spring was completely dry now. Overall the view was great, especialy Love, love the sunflower fields.



View attachment 43806View attachment 43807

Summer Camino, I like :0D

 

[Youren2010]

The days with no photos attached were due to tech errors,notified as limited space. I will try any way.

Day 6, Zafra, 24k, 6.5 hours. similar temperature. We are into a wine country.

Last night was very hot, windless. We did not rest well. We had breakfast at hotel and left near 7:15am, went back to city center and out. From 2 men group, we quickly grew into a 4 people team, a middle age Norwegian couple joined us. They were fit and fast, bost our speed to 5km a hour.

They are planing to change to Norte after Merida; however, due to the unbearable heat. Coming from a northern European country, this kind of temperature was too extreme. But for the time being, they are camino veterens and great companions. We had a great time walking together.

The first Albergue by the old train station ran by Amigos de Perigrinos was renovated in a beautiful mansion with a large roof terrace and kitchen, once an artist studio, so called Vincent Van Gough. A web comment posted 2 day ago stated that the other convent converted Albergue was closed without given any indication. We tried to call yesterday, no answer. This can be problematic if closing without any notice any where.

We called this place yesterday also, and left a message. Luckily it was open and taken care of by a volunteer. A super market Dia at the corner opens after 6pm, even though google says 5:30pm. I got enough supply for tomorrow, have cooked a pasta dish the first time and enjoyed lots of sweet melon. We had such a nice conversation tonight after dinner, I did not write earlier.

Our situation right now is that my young friend got a big blister on his right toe, he is thinking about taking a rest day tomorrow, I have bad infections on several masquito bites on the right leg, scratched too hard last night, and broken the skin. Antibiotic cream was applied several times already. I will check tomorrow morning and may be a trip to pharmacy for something stronger later. I have limited time and do not think need a rest day at this point.

Next stages were checked and options explored, one immediate concern was the day after tomorrow, 27k with no service in between. I may walk alone again, can not do 5km an hour all the way, so I am considering a bus option, pending weather and leg condition.

Fortunately, Zafra is a beautiful city and a transportation hub, there are several buses a day go to Merida passing the villages on the next two stages. I can just skip one stage or even two. Merida can be a worthy place staying for 2 days.

We will see.

 

[laineylainey]

Do hope you get those bites looked at?
5k an hour walking is like a run for me!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 7, Villafranco de los Barros, 20k, 6 hours with a coffee stop and roadside stop.

Maybe my prayer was answered. Temperature dropped significantly today. By 7am was still 16c. Now maybe 26c/82 F. All 4 of us set out walking. If this weather remains, tomorrow I am walking.

Our new perigrina has nursing background, she checked our blisters and gave me Paracetamol, she was concerned the infected areas seem to be more than mosquito bites. I recalled side affects of Ibuprofin, did online search. ithchy and rash were part of it, so it could be i got bitten first, the drug made it very itchy and swellen, so I scratched them too hard. Any way I decided to stop using Ibuprofen and use Paracetamol instead. Pharmacy staff sold me a topical cream for those areas. It was an ugly sight, but not painnful, just very itchy.

This is a lovly town, has several Abergues. we stayed at the municipal, a nice old house, has several rooms and also with kitchen. We will cook together tonight. Maybe visit the town Square later.

Now it is time to nap.

 

[C clearly]

she was concerned the infected areas seem to be more than mosquito bites.

Could be bedbug bites, which often turn into larger welts, sometimes with a little blister head.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 7, Villafranco de los Barros, 20k, 6 hours with a coffee stop and roadside stop.

Maybe my prayer was answered. Temperature dropped significantly today. By 7am was still 16c. Now maybe 26c/82 F. All 4 of us set out walking. If this weather remains, tomorrow I am walking.

Our new perigrina has nursing background, she checked our blisters and gave me Paracetamol, she was concerned the infected areas seem to be more than mosquito bites. I recalled side affects of Ibuprofin, did online search. ithchy and rash were part of it, so it could be i got bitten first, the drug made it very itchy and swellen, so I scratched them too hard. Any way I decided to stop using Ibuprofen and use Paracetamol instead. Pharmacy staff sold me a topical cream for those areas. It was an ugly sight, but not painnful, just very itchy.

This is a lovly town, has several Abergues. we stayed at the municipal, a nice old house, has several rooms and also with kitchen. We will cook together tonight. Maybe visit the town Square later.

Now it is time to nap.

Yes I was about to write the same as C Clearly: are you sure they are not bedbugs? And in what albergue would that be... :0o

/BP

 

[Youren2010]

If they were, could be from Monasterio municipal Albergue or Fuente de Cantos Hostal Vincente.

 

[C clearly]

could be from...

It could even be several days before you noticed the itch, as the reaction is sometimes delayed by that much.

 

[patchymorning]

Following you, of course, and inspired as always by your strength and determination. Please take care (with the heat, your feet) that this remains an adventure rather than an ordeal! From your friend, the wannabe peregina in Port Townsend.

 

[AML]

Hi Youren,

Enjoying you reports from VDLP....will be particularly interested from Salamanca onwards.
Hope the bites get better real soon!
Good luck
Aidan

 

[ranthr]

Perhaps Via de la Plata. in the hot season is the way to avoid the crowds, unlike in May 2011, when I thought to avoid the crowds from the holy year 201 0 and there really was a crowd on the camino

 

[hel&scott]

Fuente always closed, everything was shut when we were there, but after going out again later in the evening it was all open... Something to do with the heat, their hours are even later the the usual Spanish seista. Abandoning our usual early bedtime, we were rewarded with great food and a local fiesta, a memorial night.

Good luck for the rest of your walk, it does get cooler from Salamanca.

 

[Youren2010]

Thank you all for your support, most of the spots were under control, found on other parts of the body too, except one on the forearm still swellon, no new one was broken, I am sure it will get better soon. The cream works.

Day 8, Torremejia, 28k, 7 to 7.5 hours, roadside stops only, no service, no water supply, and no shade.

It could be a miserable stage, but God has mercy, temperature remained low, when we left it was 17c, after 12pm still partly cloudy, by 2pm felt like 20+c. This absolutely made a difference. I was very tired after 1pm, but not to a point of exhaustion. We went out separately this morning in order to do it on our own pace. I was the last one to arrive, still average 4km a hour, not bad at all, if it is 30+c temperature I know I could only do 2.5k to 3k a hour after 1pm. I dread of some of the 28+ km day ahead, the distance itself is already a challenge for me. I will save a few of my bus/train rides for them if it is available.

The section of original Rome road is 16k, straight line, you can close your eyes walking it without getting lost. I do not know why organizations put road marks, arrows, but not bothered to put extra pieces of stones for pilgrims to sit. I sat on the road markers whenever I can, it only fits one person obviously. Only one covered resting place was encountered on this road so far. it was yesterday. A few benches in town centers, but on the shadeless road, nothing was there.

Yesterday we met a Spanish couple heading to Merida in the Albergue. Today we did not see them or anyone else.

The esteemed Albergue palacio was closed, called phone number listed on the book and app, no answer or recording. Shortly after a man in the neighborhood came and told us it was closed for renovation. Informed us the private Rio Rojo was open, but recommended us taking a bus to Merida instead. That is 15km away. Even though the albergue was basic, I found it ok, all of our group stayed here. I learned soon that nearby Hostal Millennium was a terrible place for 40 euro a night a double room , not recommend.

Not notifying online or albergues in earlier stages about closing is a bit upsetting. You detour from your route at the end of a long walk in order to get here, only find out that the door is locked, you are not sure to wait or to leave, this was the 3rd one recommended by Kelley' book and a lodging list posted on the forum. but closed.



We ran into two baggers today first time, mother with children, have not seen any in other villages. When near a big city, we always need to be cautious. Tomorrow a short stage to Merida.

Forecast says it may rain on Saturday. A raining day might be a welcoming change.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 9, Merida, 16k, 4 hours with one road side rest. Again it is our lucky day, 17C when left at 7:30am.

I saw many truck drivers when we went to a nearby restaurant for breakfast, I certainly would not get up early to leave by myself, plus there is no need. but this morning started with a leak from water bladder, which cut some of my breakfast time.

Before I put my pack on, I saw water on the ground, then discovered it leaked half a liter, had to get everything out. Sleeping bag, and some clothing got wet, but not too bad. Somehow the connecting tube got unwind a little, so water leaked from the bottom, if it is clip-on type it would not have such problem. If you can aviod this design. Once it was turned tightly, no more leaking. I like this bladder otherwise, found on Amazon, light weight and has insulated tube. Water still tastes good in the afternoon. Next time I just need to be more careful.

With light breeze, not much traffic, and short distance, we had enjoyed today's walk very much. Through the Roman bridge, we marched on to the city.

The Albergue located in a park by the river, at a renovated building, close to everything at the city center. One bed is 8 euro now, instead of 6, but is still lower than many on this route. A walk along the river bank is very pleasant. So far this is one of my favorite ones. 3 more cyclists came later. Again no more walkers.

The VdlP exhibit is just 2 minutes away free to pilgrim which gives good overview and history about the road in this province. I did not get to see exhibit/info about Camino Mozarabe, information office closed during mid-day break, too tired to walk back.

Of course, the Roman ruins and Islamic remains are great as a UNESCO World Heritage City, if you only want to see one place, that is the Roman Amphitheater, best preserved in all places. There are 6 major sights in one ticket, many minor sights are free. Single sight ticket is available too.

I spent the rest of the aftdrnoon, eating, sightseeing and window shopping. No, except necessary food, not buying anything else to carry.

The chance of rain tonight and tomorrow is 30 to 40%.

None of us will switch to other route, we are staying here.

 

[Robo]

Interesting to read. What is a 'bagger'. Bag Lady? as in homeless?

 

[Koconn]

Interesting to read. What is a 'bagger'. Bag Lady? as in homeless?

I think it is a typo for 'beggar'

 

[Youren2010]

Day 10, Aljucen, 16k, 4 hours, rain on and off most of the day.

Thank you for correct my typos, there were more there. When I get home, i need to correct them all.

As for today, I missed my good companions, but had to walk alone again. I did not eat a big breakfast and was looking forward for a coffee break and some food by the water front.

Nothing opened, by 9am it was still too early. i thought I would sit there enjoying the view, write and read, that did not last long, first big rain drop came. Really there was no point sitting in the rain outside waiting for my coffee. I packed up and left.

The rain may last for 10 minutes. Well, I am leaving the plain, heading to a little hilly area. The fragrances from the wild flowers, trees and grass were very strong, birds were singing loud too, and not a single car to compete with them, only a few "Buen Camino" from cyclists coming from opposite directions and my replys added to the choir. Their missions were probably completed and they were heading home. I have yet to reach 200k. Even though everything was great, i suddenly felt very tired. When you set up a goal at a shorter distance, you get tired sooner too.

By the time i reached Aljucen, I went to the first Albergue on the right. It was the private Rio Aljucen. It was calming, inviting, tastefully decorated, a traditional style house and most importantly it opened when I rang the bell. There were no pilgrim for 4 days, I was immediately informed. And I told her, there might not be anyone after me today either. Yes, I have this beautiful place all to myself. This 200 resident village has 3 bar/restaurants, a shop, a church, a pharmacy ( the door was closed.) and 3 lodgings for pilgrims. Must be quite busy in peak season here.

After I walked in, the rain started pouring, I thought about my two friends who are pushing the 35k today. I hope the clouds moved my way.

Fortunately the rain did not last long each time, but did come down a few times a day. I had to wear a light jacket at one point. it was that cold. I am in my fleece bag as I am writing now.

After the routine, wash, shop and eat, I had the most restful nap in the afternoon, accompanied by the music of rain drops. This is exactly what I need.

I am very glad that I stopped here. Thank God! I was not too ambitious to attempt the 35k.

Good night, peregrinos!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 11, Aldea del Cano, 34+ Km, 8 hours 15 minutes, cloudy most of the day, temperature from 16c to 22c by estimation.

I did not plan to do that much when I left this morning. After coffee from the Albergue, I left at 7am. It was such a pleasant walk, going through the Park Cornalvo, I feel this was one of the pretty sections on the VdiP so far. There were also so many benches, stones to sit and rest, this will make Aljucen and Alcuescar combination much doable.

With a good rest yesterday, and a nice cool breeze, I moved in a very good pace. Most importantly there were so many nice places to sit and do a quick stop. It turned out I reached Alcuescar outskirt around 11:30am, finished near 19k.

It is very early. Without going into the city, I went to the bar/restaurant opposite of the convent. At Merida, I wad informed that municipal albergue here is closed for the time being, only private Hostal Casa Grande opens in town. A call made to the convent at Merida learnt that they were not open today, a Sunday. I do not know whether it is this Sunday or every Sunday, but it does not matter. I felt that I could go for another 3 hours. So I had a very good hamburger, a cup of coffee, and off I went.

It was a perfect day for walk, not too hot or too cold. Only cyclists passing though, occasionally I had to shared the trail with cows. I could see foot prints and knowing my friends were ahead of me. 8km to Old Casa Antonio, and at about 13km+1900m, it was the municipal albergue, a traditional farm house, very charming, I liked it immediately. It has a very tall ceiling, old style wooden furnature and a fireplace. kitchen and toilet/shower were inside, too.

The funny thing was that we were just talking about what to bring on this camino next time. Because we had such a hard time finding a good place to sit and rest, my friend said she wanted a small folding stool, I said a rolling mat, because another friend got one and I enjoyed using it. Well, there is one exactly as I want waiting for me here. In fact, there were two of them.

I tried to attach to my pack and realized one issue. When it is attached at the bottom, my rain cover for backpack can not cover the pack completely. I do not have a rain poncho, since I brought an umbrella. I am wondering how other people attach this with rain cover on, I have never done it before. Does anyone know?

Now I am debating, should I bring it? I could buy a garbage bag, put everything in it, and then put it in the backpack, I suppose.

And no rain for the next few days. I would love to use it to stretch and do some yoga at night.

Yesterday I was absolutely sure I could not do 35k, today I did nearly as much. I really do not know what the road will tell me. Again one day at a time.

Till tomorrow!

 

[jimb01930]

Thanks for posting your adventure! We are following with great interest as we intend to walk this route in the autumn.

I did carry a yoga mat on one of the Caminos for a while. I strapped it on the side of my pack when I needed a rain cover. I don't know how large you mat, cover, or pack is but you might try rigging it differently. Maybe strapped across the belly by the straps? Whatever works . . .

 

[MileHighPair]

Great to read about your journey. I don't think I could handle the heat of a summer VdlP. Buen Camino.

 

[Youren2010]

Thank you, Jimb01930, for your reply. I tried the ways you suggested. sleeping mat is too thick, the solution I found is using a string to tie it outside of the covered bag on the top or carrying it cross shoulder separately. In any case I will test it when rains. If it does not work, I will leave it at the next albergue.

Day 12, Caceres, about 22k, less than 6 hours with 1 breakfast, and 1 coffee break. Again an idea walking day, cloudy, high temperature at the noon around 20c.

I was tired in the morning and eager to leave. Last night before 11pm I woke up by loud bang on the front door, I was frightened, dare to make any move. I was already fully clothed, so just sat there listening. And the bang got louder, and then I heard the fiddlings of the locks. Someone tried to get in!!

I went to bed early after such a long day. When i closed the door, I left the key inside the key hole and put two chair one on top of each other against the door, which I do not normally do. I also went into the 2nd room, which could not be locked, but there were furniture I could move against the door if desperate, to buy more time. This old farm house has two very high windows, no one can climb in through the windows, its only entrance was the door. The same building also has a bar next door and bar/restaurant Las Vegas, closeby at the next building in front, where one gets the key for Albergue, because the owner manages the albergue too. So it should be very safe. But the bang gets even louder. At this hour, there should not be any pilgrim coming, and I did not hear any "hi, or hello" to call me. So this was an intruder, then i heard two men's voices, not sure there were two of them or someone heard the bang came to talk to this person. I could hear TV from the bar, so it was still open. Afterwards it went quiet, I guess whoever this person is was sent away, but I could not go to bed.

I was afraid after the bar closes, the person may come back, thought about calling police to report this activity, so they may keep an eye on this area and found out my phone could not dial 112 with or without +34, the country code. Then I found the restaurant number and called, a woman picked up the phone, i told her about this, she assured me everything was ok, not to worry, told me that this person was not allowed to get in and he was sent away.

In any case, I could not fall into sleep, I was too alert, I heard the bar closed at 1am. I felt on one was around and I was all by myself. I do not know when I actually fell into sleep, but when the alarm sound out, I was ready to leave. It was a Sunday night, maybe someone got drunk, I do not know. When I left at 6:30am, businesses were still closed, so i did not get to ask more about it. Earlier that afternoon and evening, there were quite a few people there watching the Spain/Russia soccer game. I am quite sure someone saw I was there alone.

My breakfast was at Valdesalor, 2 and half hour away, before noon reached outskirts of Cesares and had coffee break. Again I have encountered several cyclists, today a solo woman as well. I did not stayed at any of the recommended place in Caseres. The first sign I saw Apartmentos Turisticos La Ribera del Marco, which services for pilgrim, I went there. It turned out 18 euro for a bed in a 2 twin bed room, full kitchen, laundry farcility, living room, etc. It has other rooms. 20 meters from the road close to supermarkets, about 15 to 28 minutes to bus/train station, 25 minutes to old town center.

I bought grocery for tomorrow before 2pm closing, went to bus station, got bus schedule to Canaveral, eat, wash and slept.

After 5pm, I got up and went to visit the medieval town, well preserved with several churches, many grand buildings, and etc. It is a world heritage site and ranked as the 3rd best one in Europe. It deserves a visit.

The old town came to live after 7pm, dinner tables were out on the streets, even though, dinner was not served after 8:30pm. Shops were opened and people were strolling around, kids were playing. My earphone was broken yesterday afternoon on the road, I easily found a replacement in a shop with many choices. There is also a small Decathlon store in the center. I bought a Quechua basic liner bag, which weights 260g/9oz. I thought about bringing one, but left at home to reduce the wright.

I have found that those renovated traditional houses do not have screen doors and windows. If everything is closed, my fleece bag was too hot to use, so far used 3 nights total. if leave windows open, mosquitos have a feast on me. They do not have a ceiling fan or any fan, except at municipal in Merida has a floor fan.

During the night, after 3am it could get a little chilly lately if not covered with anything. Also some Albergues have a fitted sheet only to cover the mattress, no pillow case and flat sheet, this bag also has a folded design to cover a pillow, the only thing I do not like is that this bag does not have a big side opening, inconvenient to get in and out. It is not perfect. a small opening was placed at the left side. My fleece bag has a side zip can turn it into a blanket.

By the way, even private albergue does not always have flat sheet, just blankets. It assumes that you have a bag. At Monestery municipal it charges 1 euro to rent a set. Other places did not have that option so far. I almost feel, just bring a twin size flat sheet, or cut a smaller sheet from that. The bag size is 85cm x 210cm, rectangular.

Not sure I will be tomorrow, walk 9k, 17k or 28k, at least I have 3 options. That is very good.

Good night! tonight I am sleeping on a real bed with white linens.

Life is good, as my Norwegian friend said to me at the end of each day for the past few days. Where are they now?

 

[hotelmedicis]

Enjoying your posts! Yes, it's nice to have something on which to sit. You could take the CCF sleeping pad that you found and simply cut off a small portion and throw away the rest. That small piece of the sleeping pad would easily strap to your pack or fold up nicely into an outside pocket.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 13 Galisteo, about 26 to 28km, 7 hours, sunny, possibly 25+c.

Well, the Embalse de Alcantara has no accommodation. this was confirmed again when I walked into a bar at Canaveral by the bus station after taking the 6:25am CEVESA bus from Caseres. My strong friends walked into the bar shortly after. What a surprise! They had walked 44+km yesterday from Caseres, because they did not know about the closure. I honestly could not do something like that. I did the easy way, half an hour bus ride.

By the way, ticket was sold on the bus, not at the ticket counter in the station, the next one is 11am, then 1pm, 5pm and the last one was 8pm.

I made two new friends today, one German, one Korean and also met two Polish at the Albergue touristico later.

Starting from Canaveral, with my friends again we started in a fast pace, the turn off to Grimaldo was quickly reached, with 1km off the road, we did not go there. The next turn off was to Riolobos, 4km out, which I did not want to do, simply went further till Galisteo with a roadside lunch break.

Without those turn offs, this stage has no service. Pine trees started to show up on small hills. It has a nice view of an artificial lake made by Romans. Quite a few bulls, cows and sheep on the roadside and on the trail. I was quite afraid of those bulls with large horns, when we had to pass them in such a close distance. So far on the trail, I have seen much more of them than people.

Galisteo has an impressive medieval wall, you can get up and walk around, but inside of the wall has not much to see. But with a bank, pharmacy and three supermarkets in and out of the wall, our simple pilgrim needs are met.

So I did not walk to the Riolobos after all, but did the best I could. Tomorrow I am going to walk with my new friends.

By the way I lost my small backpack on the trail in the afternoon somehow and two cyclists brought it to the Los Emigrantes restaurants, which is right next to this tourist albergue and I got it back.

Life is good!

 

[hel&scott]

Sorry to hear about the Embalse de Alcantara, that's a long stretch to do with an albergue. Is it closed again or was it booked out?

You sound tired. This stage of the VdlP can be trying, you've been on the road a while and there are a number of long stretches which all starts to wear on you. But it has its pleasures as well, good to see you are appreciating these. We found these testing times helped focus what and why were where out there. Once though that things tended to work more smoothly. Must be tough at times on your own, but hope it helps to know that your are accompanied by us virtual pilgrims.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, the Embalse de Alcantara has no accommodation. this was confirmed again when I walked into a bar at Canaveral by the bus station after taking the 6:25am CEVESA bus from Caseres.

Something bad must have happened. I stayed the embalse in the albergue in May, and the guy running it explained that it had been closed for three years while sewers and other repairs were made. But that now there was a stable three year contract. I am really sorry to hear that it’s closed again. It’s a good albergue.

Really enjoying your reports, Youren! Before Galisteo, walking through that cattle farm, I stood to the side while about 200 of them slowly went up the hill. The guy bringing up the rear on the motor scooter assured me that they were harmless and that I should pass. But I always chicken out unless there is no alternative, even though I know they won´t do anything. Between Galisteo and Salamanca I remember a few more of these cattle farms, so get ready! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[geraldkelly]

Hi Youren!

Thanks for the info you're posting here. Glad to hear it's not too hot.

Regarding albergues being closed. Whenever people inform me that someplace has closed I post it to my website (which I mention in the book): Via Updates

For Torremeija see April 2018.

Also, last I heard Embalse de Alcantara is open (a friend of mine slept there about 2 months ago). Were you actually there or are you going on what someone told you?

Buen Camino!
Gerald

 

[C clearly]

Well, the Embalse de Alcantara has no accommodation

Something bad must have happened

Also, last I heard Embalse de Alcantara is open

Here is the latest on the Embalse. Today I sent a WhatsApp message to the albergue. The reply was very quick and they ARE open. Some people get confused by the other private place near the highway. To get to the albergue you need to walk down further and it is off to the left. (I am just guessing from a vague memory but maybe 10 minutes.)

 

[C clearly]

I asked permission to post the WhatsApp number for the Embalse albergue. It is +34 664262742. It is a lovely albergue and the hospitalero speaks English.

 

[Martyduc]

i stayed there 3 months ago and really enjoyed it ,,,,and the hospitalero was great,,did everything ,,even washed our clothes !!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Here is the latest on the Embalse. Today I sent a WhatsApp message to the albergue. As the image says, they ARE open. Some people get confused by the other private place near the highway. To get to the albergue you need to walk down further and it is off to the left. (I am just guessing from a vague memory but maybe 10 minutes.)View attachment 44328

Ha, @C clearly , I just did the same thing and got the same reply!

Great minds and all that.....

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Here is the latest on the Embalse. Today I sent a WhatsApp message to the albergue. As the image says, they ARE open. Some people get confused by the other private place near the highway. To get to the albergue you need to walk down further and it is off to the left. (I am just guessing from a vague memory but maybe 10 minutes.)View attachment 44328

Actually, as soon as I read Yourens post about Alcantara being closed, I thought Nope, that is not right... I know about a lot of people mixing up the first place with the real one. When I first walked the Vdpl, one pilgrim told everyone that Alcantara was closed, but she mistook the first one for the second (Alcantara). Well rumour was spread and suffering pilgrims had to carry on to the next village - or being rescued by Guardia civil if I am not mistaken. (July, heat wave... )

Yes it is about 10-15 mins off camino. I went there once only to be sure it actually existed... ! :0)

BP

 

[hel&scott]

Thanks for clearing that up guys, it's great news that the aulbergue by the lake is open, great iron bunker. Sorry that the OP wasn't able to stay there, though Youren post could be read that it was booked out rather then closed. Let's hope she and her new travelling companions have better luck at their next stop... Sounds like we are all standing by for the next gripping instalment.

 

[Youren2010]

That is indeed a good news. Having an albergue by the lake! I did not make the attempt, because I thought the place was closed, and read that sometime they refused service for pilgrim, felt it was too much for me to attemp it alone as a woman and simply took a bus from Caseres to Canaveral.

My friends who went through there said it was closed, from their description, it looked like they tried the first one, they did not seem to make a detour.

Day 14, 28km Arco de Caparra/Hostal Asturias, 20-25C

Although temperature in the Southern Spain is rising, again we had another beautiful day.

By the way, in Galisteo, there is a new place, La Pension de la Parador, 15Euro a bed, it has lots of posters advertising it, from outside it was not impressive, but my friends stayed there last night, this morning when we passed by, we did a quick look inside. It was nice. And the albergue touristico, 15 euro a bed including simple breakfast, we stayed was fine, too. It has ceiling fans, real sheets (those I said were lacking in the eatlier post), bed lamp, bed stands and personal locker as well. Rooms at the 2nd floor of Los Emigrants restaurant were not good.

Today I started with the German peregrino after 6:40am, met up with the other two friends shortly after. Reaching Cacabaso in good time, nearly no cars on the first section of road walk since it was early. First time in all of these days, I felt a bit chilly outside, but after 8:30am, the temperature warmed up again. We had a good coffee and rest at a bar there beside a small supermarket, later did road side breaks under trees till Arco de Caparra. There was no difficulty at all following yellow arrows all the way, did not see a post says Bombay, or we only paid attention to the arrows.

This section was a beautiful one. We saw some green corn fields and the lavish green every where brought me back to the Spring. Instead of shadeless country road, we had very nice walks through forests, a huge contrast comparing to the view I saw earlier. When we got to Ventaquemada, we went forward. As you can tell by now, we like move forward 6km, not detouring 6km.

About 8.5 hours, we reached the ruins of Roman city of Caparra. I called the phone number as provided on the VdIP premium app, which I have found helpful, but I miss the convenience of having the entire profile map in one setting. Right now showed in each stage. Someone at the hotel picked up the phone right the way, and 15 minutes later, we were in the van to the Hostal Asturias. I am happy that we do not need to walk further 8km on the camino +2km to get to this hotel as the temperature is getting hotter near 3pm. A room with 2 twin beds for 32 euro as pilgrim price was very reasonable. It was not a huge room, but clean and functional.

After 28km, I feel we finished another day successfully, even though we all had continued foot pain for days. Now I am looking forward to the dinner tonight. So far their sardines and seafood tapas were good.

I am very grateful that you have given me lots of support, when I started to feel vulnerable, friends on the road rejoined me again and I even met more friends.

The road provides.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Embalse de Alcantara:
Yes it is great news to have the situation clarified. I have very fond memories of the "modern" albergue (all concrete & brick) as it was where I had to end my first camino. I still have the views of the sunset over the embalse. The establishment closer to the water has had a very checkered history. Lets hope it remains open!! (Good work Clare/Laurie). Oh & thank Youren , your blog is great news and encourages me to really reconsider this Camino. Cheers

 

[peregrina2013]

Hello! How wonderful to be following you! When I hear of your umbrella, I think of our many days under the very direct Italian sun! Keep up the spirited walk, my friend!

 

[Youren2010]

Hello, Peregrina2013,

Believe or not, so far I am still the only pilgrim using an umbrella, have seen no one else using it. I am still wearing the same camino clothes for Italy and using the same backack, except changed a cover and shoes, lol. I have saved my camino outfit for camino purpose only.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 15, Bano de Montemayor, 25.5km, 7 hours including coffee break, lunch and sight seeing.

Yesterday staying at this restaurant by a truck stop giving us an option of taking a side road beginning from the front of the hotel, following a blue arrow walking forward about a hour to link the VdiP, if You want to walk every step of the camino, you have to get back to Arco, which we did not do.

Last night, 5 of us had a dinner together. We walked separately today after breakfast. About 10 to 11km, it was the Aldeanueva, we ended up having coffee break and snack together. Fresh squeezed orange juice was good nearly every where, I often have it in addition to the coffee. What I feel lacking is variety of vegetables. Fruits here are abundant at this time of year.

Afterwards I took the detour to the 15th century Jewish town Hervas. It happened to be the weekend for annual festival, so there were more visitors than usual. This group of converted Jew to Christianity was quite unusual. The section of 4km going to this little town has bicycle and pedestrian line most of the way so it was very convenient. In the town center has several restaurants and lodging options. After a very tasty sit down lunch, a tourst information office visit, an art museum visit, and walking in the old Jewish quarter, I was able to cross a Roman bridge and take another sideway out to link VdiP. The extra distance was 2.5km, well worth it.

I thought it would take me longer time to reach Bano, since when I left it was well pass 2pm; it was getting hot; however, before 4pm, I have already reached the Albergue and settle down.

This Albergue Touristico is amazing, it is the VdiP interpretation center, has nice exhibits to see and a garden to enjoy.

There is one modern spa/wellness center with massage and beauty treatment, opposite of it, that was the Roman bath with thermal pool and regular pool. currently the summer promotion is 8.5 euro to use both, no pilgrim discount. In the new farcility, 4 euro pilgrim price for a regular pool. The idea of getting into an ancient Roman bath was very appealing to me. the thermal bath sounded good, too. So I did that. For 45 minuted there, I was the only one with two pools. Afternoon opening time is 5 to 7pm, so staying at Bano was convenient. Morning schedule is from 9am to 1:30pm. If starting from Aldeanueva is doable. There is a small locker available and need 1 euro coin to release the key to lock it, afterwarfs, this euro will be returned to you.

I felt like having a walking holiday instead of camino today, in spite of a new small blister at the front of left foot appeared. I am not here as some of the pilgrims, we just learned that they intentionally walk longer distance, carry heavier pack, even put stone in it to add their suffering. I guess these are very devoted traditional Catholics. I am not coming here to look for more suferings, only if I have to.

Till tomorrow!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 16, Valverde de Valdelacasa, 21km, 6 hours, temperature from 16c to 28c. We continued to be blessed with nice weather, thank God.

Yesterday could be a perfect day, except at near midnight, a similar loud bang hit on the entrance door on the Albergue. There were three of us in two rooms and all woke up, a man about mid age with a bag, not a backpack wanted to get in. Our rooms were at the 2nd floor, from the windows facing the street, we saw him. He banged the door again, our only male pilgrim opened the window and told him , no. When he could not get in, he sat on the bench by the door, made a call and spoke loudly in Spanish, it was so loud that I was sure all neighbors heard it too. We did not understand what he said, but heard perigrinos. Maybe he was calling Albergue's phone number, claimed himself as a pilgrim and want to stay here. He was not allowed to enter and eventually, about 5 minutes later, a lengthy conversation he left. This made me think, was he the one knocking at my door in Aldeanueva de Cano? It was around similar time. We made sure garden door was also locked and went back to sleep, which took a while.

I was not afraid this time with 3 of us there. Hopely I do not run into him again, it seems that he likes to arrive very late, but he should know after 10pm, all albergue close. Where did he sleep? This 2nd incident was really a surprise. This kind of situation probably will not happen on Camino Frences since there were always people.

I am wondering how many people would be on the Sanabres. I think after Salamanca or Zamora, there might be more pilgrims. I am 2 days away from Salamanca. I will meet up with my friend there for a few days. I will see, one day at a time.

I left Albergue alone this morning, the other two like to stay extra day or two, but the minute I got to the town center, I ran into a middle age Spanish couple, doing their 5th camino, this time starting from their home in Southern Andalucia. They are a strong pair as well, often started at 5am. So did this morning.

This section listed 3 stopping points, 3km, 12.5km and 21km. Obviously 3km was too short, I was hoping to have a coffee break at the 2nd point. When we reached there before 10am, the only bar in town was not yet open, the Private hostel Alba y Soraya supposed to have breakfast was no one to be seen. Never the less, we sat at their chairs and used their tables. There were other lodging options possible, we did not investigate. We are heading to the next.

This and next stop have no shops. We were just talking about that, two mobile shops/vans came and had bread, cakes and eggs. Villagers came to get their supplies. We bought some, just in case. This is the way villagers shop.

The first 12.5 km was absolutely lovely, great views along the way, with some ascend and descend and places to sit and rest. The next 9km was flat, but shadeless again and no rest stop. I did it in 3 hours and walked quite slow by myself.

The Spanish couple took me under their wing and was waiting for me at the bar. There were two albergues in the village, they made sure that I went to the mulnicipal, because the other one, Nenufar was not good.

Through their conversation with a villager, they were invited to go to her house and use her kitchen to cook a meal. After wash, they took me there with them, we had a feast, that family fed us delicious cold soup and beverages first, then hot potato and meat soup, cheery and coffee at the end, along with our egg tortilla and bread, we had a wonderful visit for 3 hours. I probably only understood half of their rapid lively conversations. What a nice and generous couple! The hostess was also a great cook. They all had urged me to come back to Spain to do Primitivo next time, but I need to finish this camino first.

This Albergue is fairly new, clean, twin beds with real sheets, by the way, after I bouvht the liner bag in Caceres I have not had an opportunity to use it. Every night has real beddings. The rooms were at the 2nd floor. I could end up staying at this Albergue alone tonight, because I do not feel that I could walk any further, to another 12km under the sun. I had thought about staying at a Rural Casa to be with a family here, but there is none; of course, I would rather be with fellow pilgrims than tourists and we can walk together for some time and share the unforgetful experience.

Tomorrow we plan to do a short stage and to visit the famous, respectful father Blas. I am looking forward to it.

 

[Koconn]

Day 16, Valverde de Valdelacasa, 21km, 6 hours, temperature from 16c to 28c. We continued to be blessed with nice weather, thank God.

Yesterday could be a perfect day, except at near midnight, a similar loud bang hit on the entrance door on the Albergue. There were three of us in two rooms and all woke up, a man about mid age with a bag, not a backpack wanted to get in. Our rooms were at the 2nd floor, from the windows facing the street, we saw him. He banged the door again, our only male pilgrim opened the window and told him , no. When he could not get in, he sat on the bench by the door, made a call and spoke loudly in Spanish, it was so loud that I was sure all neighbors heard it too. We did not understand what he said, but heard perigrinos. Maybe he was calling Albergue's phone number, claimed himself as a pilgrim and want to stay here. He was not allowed to enter and eventually, about 5 minutes later, a lengthy conversation he left. This made me think, was he the one knocking at my door in Aldeanueva de Cano? It was around similar time. We made sure garden door was also locked and went back to sleep, which took a while.

I was not afraid this time with 3 of us there. Hopely I do not run into him again, it seems that he likes to arrive very late, but he should know after 10pm, all albergue close. Where did he sleep? This 2nd incident was really a surprise. This kind of situation probably will not happen on Camino Frences since there were always people.

I am wondering how many people would be on the Sanabres. I think after Salamanca or Zamora, there might be more pilgrims. I am 2 days away from Salamanca. I will meet up with my friend there for a few days. I will see, one day at a time.

I left Albergue alone this morning, the other two like to stay extra day or two, but the minute I got to the town center, I ran into a middle age Spanish couple, doing their 5th camino, this time starting from their home in Southern Andalucia. They are a strong pair as well, often started at 5am. So did this morning.

This section listed 3 stopping points, 3km, 12.5km and 21km. Obviously 3km was too short, I was hoping to have a coffee break at the 2nd point. When we reached there before 10am, the only bar in town was not yet open, the Private hostel Alba y Soraya supposed to have breakfast was no one to be seen. Never the less, we sat at their chairs and used their tables. There were other lodging options possible, we did not investigate. We are heading to the next.

This and next stop have no shops. We were just talking about that, two mobile shops/vans came and had bread, cakes and eggs. Villagers came to get their supplies. We bought some, just in case. This is the way villagers shop.

The first 12.5 km was absolutely lovely, great views along the way, with some ascend and descend and places to sit and rest. The next 9km was flat, but shadeless again and no rest stop. I did it in 3 hours and walked quite slow by myself.

The Spanish couple took me under their wing and was waiting for me at the bar. There were two albergues in the village, they made sure that I went to the mulnicipal, because the other one, Nenufar was not good.

Through their conversation with a villager, they were invited to go to her house and use her kitchen to cook a meal. After wash, they took me there with them, we had a feast, that family fed us delicious cold soup and beverages first, then hot potato and meat soup, cheery and coffee at the end, along with our egg tortilla and bread, we had a wonderful visit for 3 hours. I probably only understood half of their rapid lively conversations. What a nice and generous couple! The hostess was also a great cook. They all had urged me to come back to Spain to do Primitivo next time, but I need to finish this camino first.

This Albergue is fairly new, clean, twin beds with real sheets, by the way, after I bouvht the liner bag in Caceres I have not had an opportunity to use it. Every night has real beddings. The rooms were at the 2nd floor. I could end up staying at this Albergue alone tonight, because I do not feel that I could walk any further, to another 12km under the sun. I had thought about staying at a Rural Casa to be with a family here, but there is none; of course, I would rather be with fellow pilgrims than tourists and we can walk together for some time and share the unforgetful experience.

Tomorrow we plan to do a short stage and to visit the famous, respectful father Blas. I am looking forward to it.

I love catching up with all of your adventures! It sounds like you are having an amazing camino - I am enjoying vicariously walking with you. Buen Camino!

 

[wes]

I love catching up with all of your adventures! It sounds like you are having an amazing camino - I am enjoying vicariously walking with you. Buen Camino!

Hi Youren2010, same for me, thank you for these marvellous posts, they’re the first thing I read when I get up each morning. You’re capturing the feel, spirit and adventure of the VdLP as I recall it.
Look after yourself, and enjoy the moment.
Buen Camino,
Wes

 

[Youren2010]

Day 17, Fuenterroble, 12km, 3 hours. Temperature is continuing on the rise, although when left at 6:30am, it was still cool and pleasant. Since it was such a short stage, leaving too early was not necessary.

Several villagers have suggested us taking the motorway all the way through. At the first 4k, we only met 2 cars, the section that divided into two for camino and cyclists met no car, nor any cyclists. Last night we were the only three in the Albergue. So at this hour we did not expect meeting any one. At the last section after two routes rejoin, we only saw one car near the village. It was really like a morning exercises than a camino.

We went to Bar Jose for breakfast, its coffee was great, afterwards went to the Parroquial. It was indeed quite a special place, we received warm welcome by the volunteers and Father Blas. He was not at all I imagined. He looked so young, I was not sure I heard it right, there was another senior volunteer introduced to us at the same time.

They were sending several traditional wooden ox carts to Germany for July 16 to 27 carriage walk from Nuremburg to santiago, along with some other pots and things, sounded very interesting.

I visited the place, the little village, washed, shopped for the supply, had a big lunch with volunteers, and took a long nap. Afterwards I read, write and went to church. Father gave us a tour and told many stories about the statues and in the end gave us a special talk and blessing. Again I did not understand every sentence that was exchanged, but got the meaning more or less. It was very nice to be blessed by a respectable father for the Camino. I can tell he is enthusiastic about the Camino, devoted to the cause and he is charismatic. I wish my Spanish was better, so i could ask him questions.

Today there were 7 pilgrims total, the largest number so far. We had a simple dinner together provided by the volunteers. And the room we stayed is in the America house, for American Pilgrims on the Camino.

There were so many rooms and beds there, also has a pray and medication place. It was not a traditional church place, but modern and progressive, quite a number of volunteers here and several other residents. Even has Guardial Civil coming to visit twice.

It is certainly one of a kind place. I felt I stepped into a big family, and suddenly surrounded by many family members, a contrast from what I had just experienced the past many days. I am very glad that we had this place to rest before our 28k tomorrow.

 

[Koconn]

What a great experience. I am so interested in walking this route now - but in cooler season
Buen Camino!

 

[laineylainey]

Youren, I have just caught up with your wonderful blog. Thank you so much for sharing your trip. It's such a personal blog, and I love it. I am walking part of the VdLP in Sept.
Take care and buen camino.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 18, San Pedro de Rozados, 28k, 8h46m, 16C to 28C. No service in between.

Temperature is still on the rise, the last part after ascend (Pico de la Duena 1145m, the highest point on the camino) and descend was exposed to direct sun, mostly parallel to the motor way.

Three of us stayed in the same room and left at 5:30am in the dark with head lights on without having breakfast at the Albergue. We tried to avoid the heat as much as we could. After an hour marching, I stayed behind and took my first rest stop and food break. Without coffee, it was going to be difficult to keep that pace for the rest of the day. I waved my friends goodbye.

Morning mists were milky white, the sun was about to jump out of the horizon with its full force, and the moon was still unwilling to give up her center stage, it was a picture perfect view. Since I started so early, I had the time to enjoy.

The day's challenge was not the elevation as I was concerned originally, but my pain on the right heel and the long distance without a fueling station. The walk through knee high and sometime chest high grasses while watching thorny bushes was a challenge too. I could feel the stings and scratches on my legs even with the long pants on. My fellow pilgrims were wearing various lengths of shorts, imagine!

I had four road side stops total. The last two were really by the motorway with my mat rolling out. Since I have the mat, I got to enjoy it, right? I would have never done that at home. How about the traffic on the road? No need to worry about the passing cars, there was next to none, only several cyclists. Definitely there were more cyclists than walking pilgrims on this route.

Well after 2pm, I made it to San Pedro. Yesterday people recommended Albergue MariCarmen, I went to the restaurant Carreras as the sign led me to, it was full of custermas, but no one greeted me from the staff. Was I in the right place? So I left to check out the other Albergue Mutatio Elena, where i also saw the sign. No other pilgrim was there and I do not like to stay there alone, especially I just found out that the midnight door knocker at the Bano de montemayor Albergue was among us on the table last night. He was found ridding buses and might not be a real pilgrim. He has a black rolling luggage bag, how could he walk with that? I assume he could ride a bus to Salamanca today, since it is such a close distance, but who knows where he is going to be tonight.

I have realized that at several places on this route, Albergue is not always exclusive for pilgrims only, especially the private ones.

I did consider to walk 4km more to the next village, but was too tired to go, so I went back to the restaurant. This time seeing me again, a girl nodded, took a picture of my passport, 7 euros, and gave me a direction. I saw that I was the 2nd pilgrim, another pilgrim met at last night already got there. Apparently other friends moved on and are staying at the next village and to be closer to Salamanca.

Now it is Sunday afternoon, no where to buy food, so I will have to go back to the restaurant for dinner, even though I do not feel like supporting their business. It seems to be a local favourates, though.

I did my usual routines, had my nap and now writing this blog. Each day is different, a day with friends, another day alone, but one day at a time!

By the way, last night and tonight a sleeping bag is needed. Blankets were provided, no flat sheet.

I have made 28km closer to Santiago, life is good!

 

[MileHighPair]

Youren2010, keep your spirits up. You reach halfway in Salamanca. I few flat days before the Sanabres section. Enjoy Zamora, please do not miss the Tabara albergue, and try to stop in Rionegro - just for dinner at Me Gusta Comer. I am enjoying your reports, knee high grass is something I've never seen on Camino! Buen Camino.

 

[Youren2010]

Hi, MilehighPair,
Thanks for your suggestion. May I ask where is the Tabara Albergue? I can not remember all of the names ahead, no sure if Tabara is a place on my way, or this is the name of an Albergue at Zamora. Could not find it at Zamora.

 

[hel&scott]

Tabara Albergue is on the far side of town, with a big old communal washing area near by, great for foot soaking (or whole body if you are hot). If you are at all unsure then stop at the bar in town and ask for directions/key.

Zamora Albergue is excellent, it's in town, turn off past the Parador, looks like a smallish stone building but is quiet big, modern and clean, with fresh clean sheets.

Tabara is after Zamora, this is where you have the choice of continuing up the Camino heading to Astorgoa on the CF and then hooking around to the Sanbres. Or walking directly up the road to Tabara, it's a quiet and straight forward road. The other way is longer, the original Camino was flooded around here so it's really your choice.

There are a number of places and establishments that include Tabara in the name so your confusion is understandable.

Enjoy Salamanca, the church Albergue is on the side of a walled botanical garden and I have fond memories of drinking beer under the shade of its pergola after the gardens were locked up for the night.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 19, Salamanca, about 23.6km, 6h19m to be precise. Temperature continued to rise about 1 to 2c per day, which I could not complain really. Because if I left no late than 7am, when i finished the walk, it was under 30c. I walked alone most of the time.

Last night i was the only customer at the only casa rural/restaurant in town at 7:30pm. I have to say the menu of the day had good quality. Finally the salad was not the iceburg lettuce, tomato, and tuna fish, it was garbanzo bean with finely chopped onion, green olive, and a little bit tuna, what a nice change! I have been having that lettuce salad whenever I asked for a salad. I remembered very well that I had that on the French route too, with or without boiled egg. The pork chop grilled with minced fresh garlic was also very tender and tasty. Half of it with bread I packed it for next day. I am really glad that I did it

Supposedly, after 4km at Morille, there were two bar/restaurants, but when I got there for breakfast around 7:30am, nothing was opened, the door at the Albergue by Bar Isa ; however, was open. My friends were already left by that time. I had my first rest stop outside the Albergue.

With one more roadside stop for sweet bread I had left earlier. I tried another town, Miranda de Azan for coffee, no service opened either, luckily I had the meat and bread, which was still very taste. I found a bench outside the village and had a very nice meal.

Finding the route to Albergue was not very difficult, yellow sign and lastly metal Camino sign on the ground along with Google map. It is indeed an excellent Albergue with prime location.

I got in before 1pm and was a bit limping, also with the blister at the same spot. The volunteer there, Vincent, was so very kind, he offered me a bucket filled with ice water immediately, which helped to calm my feet tremendously.

The feet has its own mind, before leaving only a pair of old Chaco sandal was comfortable at the end of day, even though it was very heavy and I did not plan to take it at all, I took it. Now the feet is very tender, it hurts badly when I changed to it after walk and feel too heavy to even lift it. So I went to Decathlon again by bus. The good thing is that whenever I feel the needs, there is a shop to get it. This time with only two types of choices both by Quechua, I bought the hiking sandal, seemed to have good traction, support and with decent weight. At this point, any sandal would be lighter than classic Chaco really. But it is hard to let it go, I really liked that sandal.

Anyway, I did get to visit this amazing old city, loved the oldest university in Spain, grand old archtectures, churches and would love to come back to stay here for a few days. I happened to walk into a small cafe/restaurant also served as faculty cafeteria, very close to the Albergue. The tapas were amazing, best so far, coffee was also great. When I asked for the bill, it was half of the price than I anticipated. I went there again for dinner and also took my friend over. She loved it too.

Tonight my friend from home met up with me at Salamanca, tomorrow we will head out together. The Albergue was full of people, 8 walkers, 2 cyclists, and 2 hosts. Only three of them I walked with before. When there were more people, you do not get to know all of them well.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Thank

Day 19, Salamanca, about 23.6km, 6h19m to be precise. Temperature continued to rise about 1 to 2c per day, which I could not complain really. Because if I left no late than 7am, when i finished the walk, it was under 30c. I walked alone most of the time.

Last night i was the only customer at the only casa rural/restaurant in town at 7:30pm. I have to say the menu of the day had good quality. Finally the salad was not the iceburg lettuce, tomato, and tuna fish, it was garbanzo bean with finely chopped onion, green olive, and a little bit tuna, what a nice change! I have been having that lettuce salad whenever I asked for a salad. I remembered very well that I had that on the French route too, with or without boiled egg. The pork chop grilled with minced fresh garlic was also very tender and tasty. Half of it with bread I packed it for next day. I am really glad that I did it

Supposedly, after 4km at Morille, there were two bar/restaurants, but when I got there for breakfast around 7:30am, nothing was opened, the door at the Albergue by Bar Isa ; however, was open. My friends were already left by that time. I had my first rest stop outside the Albergue.

With one more roadside stop for sweet bread I had left earlier. I tried another town, Miranda de Azan for coffee, no service opened either, luckily I had the meat and bread, which was still very taste. I found a bench outside the village and had a very nice meal.

Finding the route to Albergue was not very difficult, yellow sign and lastly metal Camino sign on the ground along with Google map. It is indeed an excellent Albergue with prime location.

I got in before 1pm and was a bit limping, also with the blister at the same spot. The volunteer there, Vincent, was so very kind, he offered me a bucket filled with ice water immediately, which helped to calm my feet tremendously.

The feet has its own mind, before leaving only a pair of old Chaco sandal was comfortable at the end of day, even though it was very heavy and I did not plan to take it at all, I took it. Now the feet is very tender, it hurts badly when I changed to it after walk and feel too heavy to even lift it. So I went to Decathlon again by bus. The good thing is that whenever I feel the needs, there is a shop to get it. This time with only two types of choices both by Quechua, I bought the hiking sandal, seemed to have good traction, support and with decent weight. At this point, any sandal would be lighter than classic Chaco really. But it is hard to let it go, I really liked that sandal.

Anyway, I did get to visit this amazing old city, loved the oldest university in Spain, grand old archtectures, churches and would love to come back to stay here for a few days. I happened to walk into a small cafe/restaurant also served as faculty cafeteria, very close to the Albergue. The tapas were amazing, best so far, coffee was also great. When I asked for the bill, it was half of the price than I anticipated. I went there again for dinner and also took my friend over. She loved it too.

Tonight my friend from home met up with me at Salamanca, tomorrow we will head out together. The Albergue was full of people, 8 walkers, 2 cyclists, and 2 hosts. Only three of them I walked with before. When there were more people, you do not get to know all of them well.

Thanks for these messages!! I haven't been on the Plata for ages but your reports make me want to go back!! Yes albergues in Zamora and Tabara are indeed nice places to stay! After Salamanca - do you know where to stay? There are several ways of dividing those stages, if I remember it well. I hardly remember the names of the smaller towns... Cubo del Vino had a good albergue as I remember it. But this was so long ago...

BP

 

[Youren2010]

Day 20, Albergue Casa Saso, 23.9km, 6h20m.
I am at this Albergue right now, 7.3k +100 meters away from Calzada it is near 9pm, outside temperature is 29c.

We left Salamanca at 6:45am, arrived right after 1pm. Vincent at Albergue got up quite early, at 6am, we could have coffee and juice for breakfast. I did some stretches, so took some time.

Going out of Salamanca was straight forward, we made good progress for the first 12km in the morning breeze, did two 5 min breaks and was planning to get coffee and snacks at Cazalda, 4km away, where has a municipal Albergue and a hostal, as well as a shop. We was able to get something from the shop, but the hostal/Restaurant El Pozo was yet open, when it was 11am.

At this low Camino season, I have found more bars closed or not open early, I guess if their focus is to serve the locals, they open late and stay late. A person at the restaurant was kind enough and allowed me to wash and use the restroom. We sat at their table and took our break.

Because this is out of the Camino and by 630, so we decided to walk along the road, instead of going back. cars were few, cyclists only. From our map the road would merge. So we could get in again down the road.That was when we ended up missing a connection and ended up walking on the should of highway 66 and could not find a close exit to get down. How could we get on a freeway without knowing? Because 630 and 66 cross over we did not and the car was nor much, so we did not realize immediately.

This was bad, even though the shoulder was more than enough for one person. The wind was also picked up, especially when a car or truck passing by, previously in other region, it was windless, after Salamanca I could feel the wind, and the worst my umbrella flipped over and one microfiber bone was broken. It was a 2 years old umbrella.

From the highway we could see the Camino, but there were a wide ditch sometimes down the slope and a wire fence lined all the way. Going back was not even considered, so we kept going, hoping to get off as soon as posdible, finally we saw the sign for Casa Saso and the exit of this freeway was still far away.

We saw a beer can, thinking others might get down this way already, and hoping a hole to squeeze in. So two of us got down the slope, saw a hole indeed, but already been mended. My friend got up the fence to give a try, crossed over, I passed her our bags and sticks and climbed up, too. I do not know if I ever climbed a wire fence before in my life. I would not recommend anyone to do that either, but we did it.

Quickly we arrived at this oasis, found 4 our Camino friends were already there. And a Spanish couple, for a walking holiday, only to Zamora.

First, we soaked our feet in the pool, then had lunch under the shade, leisurely took our nap on the lawn, and swam in the lovely pool. We asked ourselves, who says Camino should be suffering?

I did not have time to write yesterday, I was busy seeing the city, shopping and eating. I caught up this afternoon and after dinner, I am writing today's report.

It is a lovely place to rest, produce was from its own garden, eggs were laid by their hens. Carmen and her husband had welcomed us warmly. I am sure you will like this place as all of us do.

We are heading to Villanueva del Campean tomorrow. Some friends will soon end their Camino at Zamora. We were told tomorrow will be hotter than today, so we will leave early.

It is time for bed now, till later.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 21, Villanueva del Campean, 25.9km, 7.5 hours, 25c outside right now at 8pm.

We left at 5:45am from the Albergue after some food we had, the breakfast was at 7am, so could not take it. We were trying to beat the heat; however, not even an hour, one or two rain drops came down. We took out our pack cover and tried out the way to carry my sleeping mat.

Suddenly, our struggles today were against strong head wind, potential rain or even potential hail, as others warned us, not over heating. Dark clouds gathered over the horizon. At one time, we even toke out our light jacket to wear. It was unreal!

We walked slower today, took some roadside rests. Luckily, El Vino's two bars were open. We went to the one by the bus station, had our breakfast and ordered sandwich to go.

The last part of the way was away from freeway, very beautiful, saw riped wheat fields, young sun flower and corn fiekds, as well as vineyards.

When we arrived at the village, we went to the Posada to register, pay and get a key for municipal albergue where our friends planned to stay. When we got in, only one bed was taken. Where were our friends? The room and beds were dirty. So we left to find others and decided to stay there. This did not happen.

To make a long story short, all of us moved to municial after a flee report from our friend at the private albergue, and the mayor phoned the lady in charge and who cleaned the albergue immidiately.

It was a bit like a small town drama unfold in front of us, quite interesting. Never the less, the food at the Bar Via de la Plata, who also owns the private albergue was very tasty, I loved it, had two meals there and bought breakfast as well. Others also reported that the white wine and draft beer were also very good.

It was a day full of surprises. We have 7 pilgrims in town, 6 were of our group and 1 new from Ireland.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 22, Zamora, 18k. 5.5hours. 16-25c, ideal weather for walking.

I am at Montamarta municipal Albergue right now catching up with the post, while washing machine does the laundry for me. it was free to use.

Yesterday was full of activities, so by the time I can write, it was near 11pm.

My friend and I left Albergue about 6:40am, we made a detour to village Sam Marcial, hoping to get a nice coffee, of course, it was yet to open. It seems more than 80% of the time, the bars or restaurants were not open before 10am, or even before 11am. If arrive late, the shops were closed after 2pm, and will not open till 5pm. Maybe it is off peak season and so few pilgrims, but at least for me right now, carrying extra food and water is must.

We did manage for two roadside stops and arrived in Zamora after 11am. The Albergue opens at 2pm, close at 10pm and needs to be out at 8am, one night stay only. No one was there, so we went to Plaza Mayor to have tapas for lunch, which was great and sent my friend off to train station to catch afternoon train to Serria to do her last 100km.

Afterwards, with my backpack, I went to the archeological museum by the Albergue. It was a good choice. There was a locker for bag, an exhibit to see, and a place to rest. Eventually I was able to checked in, did the routine and by 5pm I went out to explore the city.

Even though the castle and cathedral were closed when I went there, there were still interesting old churches, medieval interpretation center and views to see, streets to walk and lots of shops for window shopping. I found a hair salon, La Pelu de Laura, on a main street, just pass Plaza Major, when she learned that I was a pilgrim and could not come back next morning, she took me in right the way before her two custumors came, I had color, wash and cut in a very reasonable price. Even though I have the same set of clothes walking, the same set afterwards, I do not need to have a crazy hair day every day, even if it was only for a few short hours.

I also shopped supplies for tomorrow and had tapas again for dinner at a different place, cross street on the right of Bayadoliz (did not open). I had tried some interesting tapas today, three of them documented here can be described as follows: roasted octpus pieces on a bed of sliced potato cooked with cheese placed on a toast, lamb hamburger finger size with lettuce and tomato, and duck mouse (tasted like goose liver) laced with red wine sauce accompanying with a few pieces of small toasts. They were surprisingly tasty.

Today was a day filled with mixed emotions. Two young fellow pilgrims did not stopped at Zamora and moved forward to the next stage, my German friend will stay one more day before taking a bus to catch his flight home, the Spanish couple will take a bus home tomorrow. I have already sent my friend from home to Sarria. Suddenly everyone is gone, I already miss this family.

Today there were four other pilgrims in the Albergue, although I did not have much conversation with them except greetings. With an outdoor concert still going on at the courtyard of a theater, 2 houses away, I fell into sleep. One day at a time, and life is good.

 

[patchymorning]

Hi again from Port Townsend, following you daily, sometimes feeling hot and tired just from reading your blog, but mostly jealous of your time on the road. You are making great progress. Eager to hear about the Sanabres...

 

[pelerine]

So do I! Thank you for sharing! Buen camino!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 23, Montamarta, 19k, 4.5 hours and good weather day.

Today I walk alone, from the shoe rack I can tell at 7:00pm. I was the last pilgrim out for walking. 19k, I give myself the leisure to sleep some more and have a simple breakfast provided by the albergue at 6:3am.

It took me 41 minutes to be completely out of the city and be sure that I am on the VdlP. It was very clear when Camino Portugal merged with VdlP, but it was not clear where it separated. I could not remember Kelly's description, so checked my GPS frequently from time to time, and luckily caught my mistake, so made correct quickly. I always feel a bit anxious when walking out of a big city. Going in I look for the Cathedral, going out I do not have a landmark and markings can be confusing, too.

Other than that, I am quite content. As expected when I passed the Rosales del Pan, at 7km, the cafes were not yet open, but this village has many benches you can sit down, and a water fountain, too. I had my own snack and rest very comfortably.

Afterwards the 12k was in the open country shadeless. The new AVE works brought no impact, I met no cyclist, no pilgrim on the road today. So I rolled out my mat on the dirt road, took off my shoes, got my food out, with my umbrella as a shade, I made another long stop.

When I reached the municipal outside of the town, the door was unlocked and I invited myself in. It has bed and pillow cover, kitchen, gender seperate toilets and showers, a dinning room and a wash machine. Two freshly washed beddings hang outside. So I dropped my bag and went for shopping.

Last night, I was warned by the hosts at Albergue, which was passed on to them by others, do not go to Casa Rural el Brunedo at Montamarta as a woman walk alone, because the owner liked to do things for single woman, and do not ever take his offer for a car ride. I searched the forum today did find a report about him, but not any incident with car ride.

Since I saw no one, I was planning to stay there by myself, I bought lunch, diner, and food for tomorrow. I was not going to go back to town in later afternoon again.

As I was eating, an Iresh pilgrim walked in. He just got back to the Camino late last night after an interruption and was ready to pick up again now from Zamora. He did not stay at municipal, so I had not seen him.

I was very glad that I do not need to stay at this place by myself, especially now the wind is blowing, the doors and windows crack loud.

We discussed quite a bit about the short cut road walking to Tabara tomorrow or go to Granja. The fact of straight road walking with no shade, no rest stop and some of you mentioned about the beautiful view from Granja to Tabara won us over. I probably will not take the road tomorrow.

By the way, the liner bag was useful. I have also used my fleece bag too, depending on the temperature. Tonight it is fleece, last two nights were liner.

Now I will get ready for bed. Tomorrow is a new day!

 

[Koconn]

just had a chance to catch up with you! It's great that you've had some moments of real luxury - to balance out some of the harshness of road and weather. Buen Camino!

 

[PadreQ]

I just caught up reading your account, and am enjoying it immensely - I hope to be able to walk it next May. Ultreia!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 24, Granja de Moreruela, 23.7k, 6h41m

When I left the municipal at 6:50am today the temperature was 15c, when I arrived it was no more than 25c. The highest was at 5pm, 28c.

Today's walk had nice view, the new path was confusing at the point where one can go to the short cut to Tabara on road 631, one go to Granja. My GPS map showed the previous route to get close to the water on the left side of the freeway 66, the new sign pointed to the right. I was hesitated to take which. Clearly right now there is no flooding, but at the same time, I was not sure if the old route was abandent with overgrowth, not passable at certain point. Finally I went with the new path. It was very well made and maintained. I was able to have some water views, more sun flower fields than yesterday and an old castle ruin. I had my roadside stop as usual.

After 13k, I detoured to Fontanillas for a break at 107 restaurant by the road 630. Before I got there a car raced passing by me and parked by the restaurant. Out of the car, a man went to unlocked the restaurant just when I arrived at the door. He was the owner and yes, I was able to have a coffee and a pastry. It was 10:10am.

Afterwards, I went back to the route and met my roommate who was resting by the roadside. So we walked together rest of the way. Riego del Camino was a sad little place. Mt Irish friend needed a coffee, he had not got one since this morning, so we went to THE Bar Pepe. I only bought an icecream, for it was not made by him for sure. Still It was good to have a place to stop and rest.

Not much to say about Granja. The Albergue reminded me those on the French road, using the paper bed sheet and pillow case, the first one on this route so far. The kitchen was locked, but has a table, a few chairs and a hot shower.

It was very close to the Bar, where we registered and had a good lunch from daily menu. A little shop was also just around the corner by the church. We had all our needs met. We did not go to visit the Monastery, maybe tomorrow on the way. It was getting too hot in the afternoon.

Today we met two more pilgrims, one Spanish wanted to be with the crowds, so will go to Astorga. It only took him three days from Salamanca to here, very tough. The other Spanish will start anew from here tomorrow for Sanabres.

Yesterday I learned that this year had less pilgrims than last year overall, and yet the weather in summer was a lot better. Today the forecast showed that I have left the hot region completely behind. No more 30+ temperature immediately ahead. I had not walked anywhere close to 35c if I remember correctly. So I keep my finger cross and pray not to get too much rain from now on.

I am really blessed. Good night and good morning!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 24, Granja de Moreruela, 23.7k, 6h41m

When I left the municipal at 6:50am today the temperature was 15c, when I arrived it was no more than 25c. The highest was at 5pm, 28c.

Today's walk had nice view, the new path was confusing at the point where one can go to the short cut to Tabara on road 631, one go to Granja. My GPS map showed the previous route to get close to the water on the left side of the freeway 66, the new sign pointed to the right. I was hesitated to take which. Clearly right now there is no flooding, but at the same time, I was not sure if the old route was abandent with overgrowth, not passable at certain point. Finally I went with the new path. It was very well made and maintained. I was able to have some water views, more sun flower fields than yesterday and an old castle ruin. I had my roadside stop as usual.

After 13k, I detoured to Fontanillas for a break at 107 restaurant by the road 630. Before I got there a car raced passing by me and parked by the restaurant. Out of the car, a man went to unlocked the restaurant just when I arrived at the door. He was the owner and yes, I was able to have a coffee and a pastry. It was 10:10am.

Afterwards, I went back to the route and met my roommate who was resting by the roadside.He was faithfully staying on the road, so no coffee break. He was comforting himself for one 2km later. We walked together rest of the way.

Riego del Camino was a sad little place. My Irish friend really needed this coffee, he had not got one since this morning, so we went to THE Bar Pepe. It was such a place that I only bought an icecream, for it was not made by him for sure. Still It was good to have a place to stop and rest.

Not much to say about Granja. The Albergue reminded me those on the French route, using the dispousable paper bed sheet and pillow case, the first one on this route so far. The kitchen was also locked, but had a table, a few chairs and a hot shower.

It was very close to the Bar/Restaurant, where we registered and had a good lunch from daily menu. A little shop was also just around the corner by the church. We had all our needs met. We did not go to visit the Monastery, maybe tomorrow on the way. It was getting too hot in the afternoon.

Today we met two more pilgrims, one Spanish wanted to be with the crowds, so will go to Astorga. It only took him three days from Salamanca to here, very tough. The other Spanish will start anew from here tomorrow for Sanabres.

Yesterday I learned that this year had less pilgrims than last year overall, and yet the weather in summer was a lot better. Today the forecast showed that I have left the hot region completely behind. No more 30+ temperature immediately ahead. I had not walked anywhere close to 35c if I remember correctly. So I keep my finger cross and pray not to get too much rain from now on.

I am really blessed. Good night and good morning!

 

[peregrina2013]

Excellent Camino my friend! I have received an email today from a fellow 2013 Camino pilgrim who has just arrived in Santiago. I am looking forward to walking another Camino soon but will just walk my 11 days in the Alps for now. When you mentioned being close to the water, I remembered that path we took on the St Francisco that was quite risky. Somehow we made it out. A few days ago was when we reached Roma on the St Francis in 2016. Buen Camino Amiga!

 

[Saunterr]

Thanks for your posts! I’m living vicariously through them! Last year I did Seville to Salamanca, and next spring I hope to finish via Ourense. I had a stroke in March, which is a big set back but I am even more determined. I enjoy hearing about alll the details of tour journey.
Buen Camino!

 

[MileHighPair]

I continue to enjoy your reports. Buen Camino as you turn west!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 25, Tabara, 23.9k, 6 hour 55 min. Day 1 on Sanabres.

I am sitting here waiting for my hair to dry while writing. I did not go to the municial, but the private El Roble in the center instead.

Today as usual I started at 6:45am. It again was a gorgeous day. The section between the long stone bridge and the ruined farm house was the most beautiful section so far. The embalse/lake after Merida, or any water before this was no comparison. Rocky cliffs, tranquil water, and narrow gorge, the view along the river and at the little hill top was well worth it not to take the short cut to Tabara from Montamarta. I took three roadside stops before getting the coffee break at Faramontanos after12pm. The views were to be enjoyed.

If you take the road as those cyclists after the bridge, you will miss the uneven pebble filled path, and sometimes overgrown vegetation, but those parts were not lengthy. The descent seemed longer than ascent, quite gentle.

The young Spanish man flying passed me after 10am. I met my Irish friend again, this time he was already at the bar finishing his coffee. He walked the road. We set off together afterwards. When we reached the road from the village, the sign indicated that it was 5km away, if going to the albergue by Camino, it was after 7km. This time I took the road with him. Today is Sunday, no trucks, three or four cars total. Thinking about getting a nice lunch before 2pm motivated me to speed up. I took the lead and did 5k in one hour. At the outskirts of the town, by the gas station, there were two restaurants, we took the one with more car parked in front. When I saw locals old and young gathered there, I knew we went to a right place. We were not disappointed.

An hour later, we set out again for albergue. With 16 euro for a bed including the evening meal in a restaurant close to the Camino, we did not go to far end of the town for municipal. All three of us came here, that seems to be all for tonight. It was quite clean and comfortable by Camino standard. It is a hotel, but also has a separate quarter as Albergue with a refrigerator.

Right now it is the world soccer game final. Men are out watching at a bar. I have the place all by myself.

Here is much more windy. My sun umbrella broke 2nd bone today. I am wondering if I need to buy a poncho as a rain gear. I will follow the forecast first.

Thank you all for following me and supporting me.

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for your posts! I’m living vicariously through them! Last year I did Seville to Salamanca, and next spring I hope to finish via Ourense. I had a stroke in March, which is a big set back but I am even more determined. I enjoy hearing about alll the details of tour journey.
Buen Camino!

Marcie, good luck with your recovery and plan for next Spring.

 

[Youren2010]

Marcie, you are such an inspiration. I admire your courage and determination. Hope you will be back on the road soon.

All the best!

 

[Saunterr]

Thank you! You’ve inspired me: today I walked 5km without stopping! Next I will train to walk longer, and then add a pack. I look forward to reading your next posts!

 

[Youren2010]

Day 26, Santa Marta de Tera, 23k, 5 hours 50 mins, 14c to 25c.

Last night at Tabara, total 9 pilgrims, 6 Spanish pilgrims were at municipal, all started from Granja, 4 were from Granja and a couple from Madrid. The interesting thing is that starting from tomorrow there were closed albergues and the open ones, some only have four or six beds, there were not many private ones to use at certain places, even though I would like to do about 20k each day, I could not. Now I anticipate that I may get to Santiago ahead of my schedule, which is perfectly fine with me.

I started at my usual time, enjoyed the morning walk by myself, seeing the sunrises and breathing the fresh air. It is a hilly region, not all flat as before, so the views are bit more interesting. I can feel the temperature started to go down 1 or 2 degrees in general.

The new section after AVE construction was nice and clearly marked. I saw no truck or worker, too early for them.

Today there were two ways, right one through Bercianos, no service in between, "authentic route"; left one though Villanueva de las Peras, a town with albergue and cafe. Both are the same length. After 10km, around 9am, I got to this well marked point.

My GPS map showed the route to left and I feel that I would welcome a cup of coffee at this point, since I only had a roadside stop. I went left, nearly an hour I got to the motorway outside of the town. There was a covered shelter with benches. I sat down and took 2nd stop and snacked. You never know if the cafe would be open or not; however, I got a bonus today. It opened and I had my good coffee. On the counter I also saw an interesting tapa item, could not figure out what was it, cut mushrooms, or some kind of seafood? I did not get the name I was told, so I asked if I could try, a few pieces were heated for me with microwave, it had strange texture, and turned out was crest from chicken, one bite was enough for that. I ordered real mushroom instead.

14km was too short to stop for the night at this village.

The next 8km were well marked and I went non stop. The private Casa Anita at Santa Croya de Tera was closed permenently, which I learned from my Google map last night. I only bought an ice cream from the shop, moved on to the next village, Santa Marta de Tera, 1km away. It has municipal albergue with 12 beds. It is a modern farcility, has the necessities, but no real sheet or pillow case, and no wifi.

The town has an unnamed shop, but easy to find, thanks for Kelly, the Bar Stop does not serve lunch and the only Restaurant, Venta Medievo in town did not open, in fact no one in town knows when it might openk.

The museum of the church was closed for the day as well. Madrid couple reminded me that the statute of Santiago showed on the signs everywhere during this section was actually from here. A keeper at the church told me it was the oldest in Europe and made in 1200s as the church. I have not done my own readings about this yet, internet connection was unstable, so no fact check. It was outside of one gate by the cemetery, so can be visited any time.

Tonight, all 9 pilgrims are united here. tomorrow, at 11km, 6 beds, at 13km, 6 beds, at 21km, 4 beds, at 27km, 30 beds. So we will see what happens.

I am glad we all have beds. Today I saw two Spanish "pilgrims" at the Bar during my coffee stop, they left this Albergue as I walked in after 12pm, I heard that they need a hostal with real beddings, so they left. I am curious where they are now, because the first chance of getting a proper bedding might be 2 days walk away. And it is not guaranteed.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 26, Santa Marta de Tera, 23k, 5 hours 50 mins, 14c to 25c.

Last night at Tabara, total 9 pilgrims, 6 Spanish pilgrims were at municipal, all started from Granja, 4 were from Granja and a couple from Madrid. The interesting thing is that starting from tomorrow there were closed albergues and the open ones, some only have four or six beds, there were not many private ones to use at certain places, even though I would like to do about 20k each day, I could not. Now I anticipate that I may get to Santiago ahead of my schedule, which is perfectly fine with me.

I started at my usual time, enjoyed the morning walk by myself, seeing the sunrises and breathing the fresh air. It is a hilly region, not all flat as before, so the views are bit more interesting. I can feel the temperature started to go down 1 or 2 degrees in general.

The new section after AVE construction was nice and clearly marked. I saw no truck or worker, too early for them.

Today there were two ways, right one through Bercianos, no service in between, "authentic route"; left one though Villanueva de las Peras, a town with albergue and cafe. Both are the same length. After 10km, around 9am, I got to this well marked point.

My GPS map showed the route to left and I feel that I would welcome a cup of coffee at this point, since I only had a roadside stop. I went left, nearly an hour I got to the motorway outside of the town. There was a covered shelter with benches. I sat down and took 2nd stop and snacked. You never know if the cafe would be open or not; however, I got a bonus today. It opened and I had my good coffee. On the counter I also saw an interesting tapa item, could not figure out what was it, cut mushrooms, or some kind of seafood? I did not get the name I was told, so I asked if I could try, a few pieces were heated for me with microwave, it had strange texture, and turned out was crest from chicken, one bite was enough for that. I ordered real mushroom instead.

14km was too short to stop for the night at this village.

The next 8km were well marked and I went non stop. The private Casa Anita at Santa Croya de Tera was closed permenently, which I learned from my Google map last night. I only bought an ice cream from the shop, moved on to the next village, Santa Marta de Tera, 1km away. It has municipal albergue with 12 beds. It is a modern farcility, has the necessities, but no real sheet or pillow case, and no wifi.

The town has an unnamed shop, but easy to find, thanks for Kelly, the Bar Stop does not serve lunch and the only Restaurant, Venta Medievo in town did not open, in fact no one in town knows when it might openk.

The museum of the church was closed for the day as well. Madrid couple reminded me that the statute of Santiago showed on the signs everywhere during this section was actually from here. A keeper at the church told me it was the oldest in Europe and made in 1200s as the church. I have not done my own readings about this yet, internet connection was unstable, so no fact check. It was outside of one gate by the cemetery, so can be visited any time.

Tonight, all 9 pilgrims are united here. tomorrow, at 11km, 6 beds, at 13km, 6 beds, at 21km, 4 beds, at 27km, 30 beds. So we will see what happens.

I am glad we all have beds. Today I saw two Spanish "pilgrims" at the Bar during my coffee stop, they left this Albergue as I walked in after 12pm, I heard that they need a hostal with real beddings, so they left. I am curious where they are now, because the first chance of getting a proper bedding might be 2 days walk away. And it is not guaranteed.

 

[hel&scott]

Ah takes me back, a good bed is one that is available when you need it, ideally without bedbugs. A good cafe is one that is open for your morning coffee, like you we found many didn't open till late, however we had better luck in areas with Autumn hunters as the cafes opened early for these guys, or they would fold down the tray of their truck and offer us a drink from their thermos.

I see you have made the turn and are now closing in on Gallicia, the hills are ahead but then so is Jimmy. Hope the rest of your walk goes well.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 27, Rionegro, 26.1k, 8 hours, could be 27k.

This morning I woke up at 5am by a garbage truck or some kind of truck, so I decided to get up. I took all of my stuff to the kitchen to get ready. That was when I found out my bag of fruits were gone, at first I thought someone mistakenly took my bag in the refrigerator, but my water bottle and a cup were there. it was all together. It did not cost that much for a bag of fruits, but there would be two days without a shop available for me. This was not nice. The goog thing was that I had some cookies and pastry in my backpack, and two boiled eggs in the cup. I was covered for today. Not much to eat in the morning, so I left at 5:45am.

The first half hour I need to use headlamp, but on an even flat country road, very easy. 6km later I came to the gravel quarry. It was in operation, very loud. The noise could be heard far away. There was a nice park by the bridge, but the noise drove me away. I took my first roadside break by an irrigation well.

As expected, at 11km point, Calzadilla de Tera, nothing opened, does not matter it has supermarket, bakery and cafe. A villager showed me a direct road through, which saved some steps and confusion, I got to Olleros de Tera, at the 13km point. The reputable Cafe Bat La Trucha was locked tight. As Hel&Scot said, a good cafe is the one that opens in the morning. So this is not a good one for me. I sat down and had my 2nd break. I had to ration my food intake.

The next 8km to Vilar de Farfon was quite nice, especially after the dam and walking along the reservoir. I rolled out my mat and took a long waterfront picnic. By the way, before the dam, I took the bike route, did not try the muddy one. There were muddy sections earlier today.

Temperatures raised up at middle day, it was getting hot. There were points one can get into the water for a swim, but I did not.

After 12pm, I arrived at Albergue Rehoboth, what a lovely place, I thought about staying, but not enough food for tomorrow and the day after. I can not count on having shops open before 10am. As reported today after 10am, a shop was still closed. But I was able to make coffee here, thank God. if come prepared, it is a good place to stay, for conversation or meditation.

The last 6km took me a bit longer than usual, but I made it after 2 hours. This renovated medieval albergue is absolutely precious, supposedly it was one of the oldest on the camino. I love the high ceilings, the little courtyard and 2nd floor, very spacious. The best of all, My Gusta Comer restaurant was just across the street. It was still open, till 4pm. I was able to shower first and then enjoy its delicious food. Even though there was no shop available here, I had the best food, you must try. Everything was great, sorry I admit I tried a well seasoned roasted rabbit leg too, as I saw many customer ordered it and I had to try.

It was a great day, and I am very glad that the group of 4 went forward for another donative, I was told by our fellow perigrios, they did not pay last night, and there was no host onsite, it was donative.

I hope I do not run into them again. Camino provides, we just need to trust.

 

[Tui]

Hi Youren,
So sorry to read that your fruit was taken.
I’m really enjoying your posts we will be following in your footsteps, starting end of August next year. Work commitments make us walk at that time of year!
Take care, happy walking
Donna.

 

[Youren2010]

Day 28, Asturianos, 26.5km, 7 hour 30min.

First I like to add for Rionegro, there is a Panaderia 5 minutes walk from the Albergue on the road to Mombuey. I found it from Google map, it is a 2 story building, fairly new, no schedule posted outside, but I rang the door bell after 6pm, a young man came downstairs and opened the shop. It has loafs of bread, some cookies, eggs, cheese and sausages.

Last night the Albergue has 6 pilgrim, 4 of us, 1 Spanish cyclist and 1 from Valencia, 78 years old, he had walked the Camino 40 times, 12 times on this current route. Yesterday he walked from Tabara to Rionegro, which we did in 2 days. And he did it all on the motorway. He said that he first started Camino in the early 90s. I consider him a legend. He told us to begin the walk today on the road, which we did.

3 started at 5:30am, i started at 6am. After 5km, there was a hotel/restaurant by the gas station and it OPENS. I had Coffee grande and a pastry. Afterwards the rest of the day, no service. Now I know why we should first start on the road.

It was 9km from Rionegro to Mumbuey. It has many bars, at least 3 shops and Albergues, of course, nothing opens as usual. After seeing the interesting church tower, it was the Camino.

It is the hilly area, so not much fields walking, more like hiking at home, woodlands, private hunting grounds, wild flowers, 3 types of butterflies, birds and sheep. At one point, a shepherd with 5 dogs said this area has many wolfs, threatening their sheep. I also saw one dead snake on the road, first ever, and many small wild rabbits running around. That is why rabbits were a common items on the menu here.

Today, I passed several small villages, even though there were no shop or bar, there were water fountains, benches, so one can rest properly, which was very helpful. I took the opportunities and had more rest today.

Lately camino backed to be a solitary experience. If I choose, I could remain silent for a whole day. It seems to have more pilgrims on the road than before, but on the walk, rarely ran into each other, only till the end.

I learned about the other two "pilgrims", they bus to their hotel, bus back to walk. Luckily some of bigger towns were not too far away from the road. At the roadside hotel, met a Belgium couple, they booked their lodging at Puebla de Sanabres, will bus there from Asturianos, bus back to walk the 14km.

I am at the Sports center/Albergue in Asturianos. It was small, but big enough for 4.

Believe it or not, there is a cheery tree on the slope right in front of us laden with riped fruits, and quite sweet. No shop is ok, we have our own tree!

 

[ksam]

Ahh I would love some spanish cherries right from the tree!! Glad to hear things are going well! Buen Camino