just finished Frances, Del Norte is beckoning me next. Info from those who've walked, please?

[christina houpis]

I completed the Camino Frances on July 3, and already the Del Norte is whispering my name. In Azura I asked those Del Norte joiners about their experience, and they told me a few things.. I will do my own research, but this Forum is such a treasure and so full of guidance and information that I wanted to ask here too.

Can any pilgrims who've walked the Del Norte (and possibly also the Frances) give me insights into their experience.

-frequency of albergues (distance between)
-reality of isolation while walking vs. meeting others along the walk (I really loved meeting pilgrims from all over the world)
-food/groceries access
-fuente availability during etapas
-weather/best season to walk
-terrain (mountains in beginning? walks on the beach?!)
-any comparison to the Frances in the above aspects
-any other info or opinion or experience.

thank you all.

 

[jpflavin1]

I completed the Camino Frances on July 3, and already the Del Norte is whispering my name. In Azura I asked those Del Norte joiners about their experience, and they told me a few things.. I will do my own research, but this Forum is such a treasure and so full of guidance and information that I wanted to ask here too.

Can any pilgrims who've walked the Del Norte (and possibly also the Frances) give me insights into their experience.

-frequency of albergues (distance between)
-reality of isolation while walking vs. meeting others along the walk (I really loved meeting pilgrims from all over the world)
-food/groceries access
-fuente availability during etapas
-weather/best season to walk
-terrain (mountains in beginning? walks on the beach?!)
-any comparison to the Frances in the above aspects
-any other info or opinion or experience.

thank you all.

Christina:

Another Peregrina with the Camino bug. I would recommend you read through the post in the Norte section of this forum. I am sure most of your questions will be answered. Those not answered could then be addressed in a less broad response approach.

That said, I found the Norte a little more challenging day in and day out than the Frances. There are no huge climbs like out of SJPdP but there are plenty of 500 meter climbs. The route in my opinion does gets easier, terrain wise, the further you go. This route is mostly coastal, so if you like sea views you will enjoy this walk. There is more hard pan walking than the Frances but most of it is along rural roads. There are also many options to take alternative routes including portions of the E-9 which intersects sections of the Norte. Should you find it not to your liking you can switch to the Primitivo just after Villaviciosa. The Primitivo is also very hilly but much more rural. The food menu on the Norte is much more fish oriented for obvious reasons.

As far as accommodations, I recommend you look at the Gronze.com and Eroski sites online. They are both great in my opinion.

Hope this is helpful but you will find a great deal more information if you read through the Norte section of the forum.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[christina houpis]

Thanks Joe. I suffered from great foot pain (and eventual really bad tendonitis along my lower legs/shin), which I suspect started because my shoes' soles were not thick and sturdy enough, and cascaded into secondary problems as I made shoe (and probably walking adjustments) to help my primary problem. I did not like - or should I say - really struggled with, the packed dirt tracks, the sidewalks, paved roads on the Frances. As far as elevation, or climbs, this is not a problem as I'm an avid hiker. Makes me wonder if the Primitivo is a better one for me, especially is the Norte has many roads where we walk. I do really love the idea of coastal views!! By hard-pan walking, do you mean longer distances between Albergues with no small towns (for food or possible stay) in between? This is what I heard from some of the Norte walkers. I used Gronze for Frances, as well as another app which was similar to Eroski, so nice to know they are usable for Norte too. Any rec on good guide books? I only used websites and apps for Frances and stole photos from my friends' Brierley guide . Any recs for Norte or Primitivo guide books?

I will definitely read the Norte info on this Forum. Thanks so much!
Christina

 

[Tia Valeria]

If you start the Norte west of Santander, probably as far west as Llanes you will have less road walking and can make the switch to the Primitivo. That way you get coast and mountains. We used the CSJ guides (Norte and Primitivo) backed up by Gronze and the Cicerone guide to the Northern Caminos. Rather than carry them all we wrote in the CSJ guides and cut off the sections of those that were not needed. If you have the Francés guide you will need it at then end when the Francés joins with the other routes.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Christina,
I think that some of the routing may have changed since I walked the Norte in its entirety, but I remember a lot of asphalt. The E-9 coastal route also tracks the Norte more or less, and there are frequently diversions along the coast -- always take the E-9 option, because it always goes back to the Camino and is generally less asphalt.

My more recent experience on the Norte was a few years ago when I walked the VAdiniense/Leganiego and started on the Norte in Santander to go to the turnoff for the Lebaniego in San Vicente de la Barquera. My feet were really complaining by the time I got to Comillas. Nearly all of that stretch, Santander to Comillas, is asphalt.

As far as guides go, if you read Spanish, I find the online Eroski guide is really all you need, and you can upload their camino ap for free on your phone. It has walking directions, albergues, and general cultural/historical information. The one thing it doesn't have is information about private accommodations.

 

[jpflavin1]

Thanks Joe. I suffered from great foot pain (and eventual really bad tendonitis along my lower legs/shin), which I suspect started because my shoes' soles were not thick and sturdy enough, and cascaded into secondary problems as I made shoe (and probably walking adjustments) to help my primary problem. I did not like - or should I say - really struggled with, the packed dirt tracks, the sidewalks, paved roads on the Frances. As far as elevation, or climbs, this is not a problem as I'm an avid hiker. Makes me wonder if the Primitivo is a better one for me, especially is the Norte has many roads where we walk. I do really love the idea of coastal views!! By hard-pan walking, do you mean longer distances between Albergues with no small towns (for food or possible stay) in between? This is what I heard from some of the Norte walkers. I used Gronze for Frances, as well as another app which was similar to Eroski, so nice to know they are usable for Norte too. Any rec on good guide books? I only used websites and apps for Frances and stole photos from my friends' Brierley guide . Any recs for Norte or Primitivo guide books?

I will definitely read the Norte info on this Forum. Thanks so much!
Christina

Christina:

When asking a question, you should reply to the poster. This sends a tag to them and they know to check the post, just like I did on yours here.

By hard pan, I mean hard surface walking like asphalt or pedestrian walkways. There are plenty of towns along the way. The gronze.com guide shows distance, estimated elevation and accommodation along the route. I did not use a guide book but many use the Cicerone (sp?) guide book for Northern routes. I had no problem with accommodation but I walked in April. You will probably have to stay in at least a few hotels.

Joe

 

[christina houpis]

If you start the Norte west of Santander, probably as far west as Llanes you will have less road walking and can make the switch to the Primitivo. That way you get coast and mountains. We used the CSJ guides (Norte and Primitivo) backed up by Gronze and the Cicerone guide to the Northern Caminos. Rather than carry them all we wrote in the CSJ guides and cut off the sections of those that were not needed. If you have the Francés guide you will need it at then end when the Francés joins with the other routes.

thank you! I have to confess I haven't even looked at the Norte or Primitivo routes yet, so towns don't mean too much to me, but I'm going to start looking at the landscape and reading about both routes today

other question, Tia, it seems that you've done many northern routes; Any months you'd recommend in terms of heat/rain/crowds? My only point of reference is the Frances and I purposely chose June to minimize crowds and highest heat, but also to try to avoid too much rain.

thank you for your help.

 

[christina houpis]

Hi, Christina,
I think that some of the routing may have changed since I walked the Norte in its entirety, but I remember a lot of asphalt. The E-9 coastal route also tracks the Norte more or less, and there are frequently diversions along the coast -- always take the E-9 option, because it always goes back to the Camino and is generally less asphalt.

My more recent experience on the Norte was a few years ago when I walked the VAdiniense/Leganiego and started on the Norte in Santander to go to the turnoff for the Lebaniego in San Vicente de la Barquera. My feet were really complaining by the time I got to Comillas. Nearly all of that stretch, Santander to Comillas, is asphalt.

As far as guides go, if you read Spanish, I find the online Eroski guide is really all you need, and you can upload their camino ap for free on your phone. It has walking directions, albergues, and general cultural/historical information. The one thing it doesn't have is information about private accommodations.

Thank you, Peregrina. This is helpful information.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We have walked mostly in May. Too early in May and there may still be snow in the mountains on the Primitivo so for that you could aim to be leaving Oviedo from around second week of May onwards. However we have arrived in Santiago on 16th May without encountering snow (2012) but in 2013 there was snow as late as May 13th in many areas. The coast anytime in May is OK although early May can be wet. Hope that helps. June usually gets hotter and drier, but again in the mountains it is cooler.

All the guides I mentioned have private albergues and accomodation listed as well as the public albergues.
Happy planning and Buen Camino

 

[TerryB]

A taste of the Norte between Llanes and Villaviciosa -



As the Norte increases in popularity, new private albergues and hostals are opening all the time. Yes, there is some walking on minor roads but as you can see there are views of mountains and sea which you will not get on any other Camino. And you will still have the delights of the Primitivo to come after Villaviciosa

Enjoy your planning!
Tio Tel

 

[christina houpis]

A taste of the Norte between Llanes and Villaviciosa -

View attachment 20044 View attachment 20045 View attachment 20046 View attachment 20047 View attachment 20048

As the Norte increases in popularity, new private albergues and hostals are opening all the time. Yes, there is some walking on minor roads but as you can see there are views of mountains and sea which you will not get on any other Camino. And you will still have the delights of the Primitivo to come after Villaviciosa

Enjoy your planning!
Tio Tel

lovely, lovely, lovely!

 

[Chacharm]

I walked the Frances 3 years ago, and stared the Norte in May this year. I was with my on on the Frances and alone this year. I think my favorite thing about the Camino was the other peregrinos.
I fell down the stairs in Gernika and ended my caminonthere and then, so admittedly didn't see much of the Norte....but I can tell you that I found it a much more challenging walk. That may have been because I was flat out lonely- most days I never saw another peregrino until I arrived at the albuergue.
It was very beautiful, though. And I thought the food was much better (lots of fresh seafood) and the albuergue felt more like hotels with bars and restaurants (in my limited expeexperience).
If I go back I will just do the Frances again. I like people and chatting!

 

[danielefumagalli60]

Dear Christina you may have a look@ http://1drv.ms/1LIHkhW and see some pictures in order to get an idea. We made both French and North. Two different feeling: French is soft, more shared, spiritual, syncronous, The northern is Wild, when you are not on the carrettera, asyncronous, bipolar...but any time surprise you. As next we planned the Plata one, we'll see which feeling we'll have...buen camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

-frequency of albergues (distance between)
-reality of isolation while walking vs. meeting others along the walk (I really loved meeting pilgrims from all over the world)
-food/groceries access
-fuente availability during etapas
-weather/best season to walk
-terrain (mountains in beginning? walks on the beach?!)
-any comparison to the Frances in the above aspects
-any other info or opinion or experience.

thank you all.

Hello Christina, I have walked the CF from 2007 until this June, CDN last fall from San Sebastian to Llanes, and this early summer the Primitivo.

First things first, all have a lot of cement walking, don't kid yourself. If that is an issue visit a podiatrist before you head out, bring an assort,ent of shoes you think you like and ask he, to help pick the best one for YOU.

Secomd, if you like the social aspect of the CF you may feel lone,y on the other routes, or you May dis over the CF really is not to your liking after all This is a route where most walkers afe Spaniards, and people who walk to walk because they loke to walk. Church? Nope? Sharing of life alterimg moments? Not so much.

As to your specific questions, there are many guides and we sites that will give you detaîed information on distances, elevtions, etc. But know this: albergue availability on CdN dépends on when you walk. Many places afe not just for pilgrims, rather places openedminopened for tourists in summer months where pilgrims can also stay. It's not because it exists that it is open.

Food is not an issue, in fact it is Sooooooo much better the the CF. Peregrino menu does not exist, you just arrive at albergue around 2 pm and head out for a proper menu del dia. Laundry waist, dinner is a light snack. But food is actually good.

Primitivo vs CDN will not give you any more company, not less off road walking. And the food is not ad good. If you liked the social aspect of the CF, again, you may remember every foot step, or discover CF is a bit of a circus these days.

As for time to walk, even summer months May be bearable, at least more than on the CF, but i theoretical there is more rain and cooker temps.

 

[Jena]

Walked the Norte this year in June-July. It was my first camino.

In general, albergue frequency wasn't bad, especially if you consider the private albergues. There are a lot of nice private donation-based albergues that are extremely welcoming (e.g. Güemes, Pendueles, Santa Cruz de Bezana, Cuerres, Maariz).

I suspect your sense of isolation will depend at least somewhat on your language abilities. I speak English, Spanish, and at least some French -- and there was almost nobody I couldn't have a conversation with. If you are a monolingual English speaker you may meet many fewer people. I definitely ran into the same people time and time again and was very happy about that. Would also say there were a lot of life-changing moments: spontaneous communal meals, a shared sense of awe at a forest shrine, and so on.

Food/groceries/fuentes: the worst bit for this is really the end of Asturias and the beginning of Galicia -- there are a few days where you will go 15km without a store or bar. We asked at houses for water more than once. With planning, it's quite all right.

Food is amazing throughout, especially if you are a seafood lover. Avoid anywhere that offers a pilgrim menu and find a menu del día instead -- for the same price you will have better quality.

Feel free to send more questions my way!

 

[christina houpis]

Hello Christina, I have walked the CF from 2007 until this June, CDN last fall from San Sebastian to Llanes, and this early summer the Primitivo.

First things first, all have a lot of cement walking, don't kid yourself. If that is an issue visit a podiatrist before you head out, bring an assort,ent of shoes you think you like and ask he, to help pick the best one for YOU.

Secomd, if you like the social aspect of the CF you may feel lone,y on the other routes, or you May dis over the CF really is not to your liking after all This is a route where most walkers afe Spaniards, and people who walk to walk because they loke to walk. Church? Nope? Sharing of life alterimg moments? Not so much.

As to your specific questions, there are many guides and we sites that will give you detaîed information on distances, elevtions, etc. But know this: albergue availability on CdN dépends on when you walk. Many places afe not just for pilgrims, rather places openedminopened for tourists in summer months where pilgrims can also stay. It's not because it exists that it is open.

Food is not an issue, in fact it is Sooooooo much better the the CF. Peregrino menu does not exist, you just arrive at albergue around 2 pm and head out for a proper menu del dia. Laundry waist, dinner is a light snack. But food is actually good.

Primitivo vs CDN will not give you any more company, not less off road walking. And the food is not ad good. If you liked the social aspect of the CF, again, you may remember every foot step, or discover CF is a bit of a circus these days.

As for time to walk, even summer months May be bearable, at least more than on the CF, but i theoretical there is more rain and cooker temps.

thanks, really helpful info about my specific questions

 

[NadineK]

Hi Christina!

I walked the Frances last summer (June/July), and the Norte/Primitivo this summer (June/July), and have so many thoughts about the two experiences, although I'm still trying to sort it all out myself.

I really loved both Camino experiences, though they were very different. Other commenters have said some valuable stuff, so I'll try not to repeat too much. These routes were definitely more isolated (I found the Norte to be more quiet than the Primitivo, actually, but that could have just been the time/circumstances of my walk), but I really loved that. I could spend entire walking days when I wouldn't see another pilgrim, but then nearly always be assured of meeting up with people in the afternoons/evenings at the albergues. I really agree, however, with Anemone del Camino who said that the Norte pilgrims tend to be people who love to walk, and not so much people on a pilgrimage. The Frances felt like a pilgrimage to me: spiritual and religious (if you want it to be) and magical. There were moments like this on the Norte/Primitivo, but they weren't as explicit and common.

Finding water was no problem, and food wasn't difficult either; I used the Cicerone guidebook and it usually noted when I needed to be vigilant about securing food/water when walking somewhat longer stretches between services. I thought the albergue spacing was fine, and never an issue; if anything, I found there to be more options than I anticipated (though I walked from June 17-July 17, when most albergues were open. Off season might be a different story).

I sort of threw myself into the experience and maybe did a little too much, too soon (got a nice big blister on the bottom of my foot during the first week); I definitely found it to be more challenging than the Frances. But never impossible, and shorter days can make it feel a little easier.

I blogged while I was on the Camino, nearly every day, so maybe some of what I wrote could be helpful to you (and I hope to write a few follow-up posts with info on albergues and my comparisons between the Frances and the Norte/Primitivo). https://singlestepcamino.wordpress.com/

Hope some of this helps, and Buen Camino!
Nadine

 

[christina houpis]

Hi Christina!

I walked the Frances last summer (June/July), and the Norte/Primitivo this summer (June/July), and have so many thoughts about the two experiences, although I'm still trying to sort it all out myself.

I really loved both Camino experiences, though they were very different. Other commenters have said some valuable stuff, so I'll try not to repeat too much. These routes were definitely more isolated (I found the Norte to be more quiet than the Primitivo, actually, but that could have just been the time/circumstances of my walk), but I really loved that. I could spend entire walking days when I wouldn't see another pilgrim, but then nearly always be assured of meeting up with people in the afternoons/evenings at the albergues. I really agree, however, with Anemone del Camino who said that the Norte pilgrims tend to be people who love to walk, and not so much people on a pilgrimage. The Frances felt like a pilgrimage to me: spiritual and religious (if you want it to be) and magical. There were moments like this on the Norte/Primitivo, but they weren't as explicit and common.

Finding water was no problem, and food wasn't difficult either; I used the Cicerone guidebook and it usually noted when I needed to be vigilant about securing food/water when walking somewhat longer stretches between services. I thought the albergue spacing was fine, and never an issue; if anything, I found there to be more options than I anticipated (though I walked from June 17-July 17, when most albergues were open. Off season might be a different story).

I sort of threw myself into the experience and maybe did a little too much, too soon (got a nice big blister on the bottom of my foot during the first week); I definitely found it to be more challenging than the Frances. But never impossible, and shorter days can make it feel a little easier.

I blogged while I was on the Camino, nearly every day, so maybe some of what I wrote could be helpful to you (and I hope to write a few follow-up posts with info on albergues and my comparisons between the Frances and the Norte/Primitivo). https://singlestepcamino.wordpress.com/

Hope some of this helps, and Buen Camino!
Nadine

thanks so much, Nadine. I appreciate your reply and will look at your blog.