On my first Camino, I was literally forced off the path by two, silent, racing cyclists coming DOWN Alto de Perdon. Had it not been for my walking companion screaming "LOOK OUT!" at the top of her lungs - she was from New Zealand so it was LOUD (must be a rugby thing) - I would not be here typing this...and away we go...
BACKGROUND:
As most of you know, the path up to Alto de Perdon is narrow and winding, with several switchbacks that produce blind corners for both walkers and cyclists. The "inside" or left-side going up is covered with brush and shrubbery and slopes gently UP. However, the "outside" or right-side leading up to the summit drops DOWN in a nasty, very steep slope of at least 30 degrees or more, without significant rock outcroppings or trees.
If one were to fall off the path to the right, there is literally nothing to stop you going ALL THE WAY. The likely result is disabling injury or probably death from a broken neck, as a rucksack will torque one's neck unnaturally.
In fact, a week earlier, a French day hiker fell off a path in the Pyrenees - not on a Camino - and this is exactly what happened. The hiker fell about 300 meters down a steep outside slope. Her walking partner called 112 immediately. By the time the first responders arrived, about 45 minutes later, the Griffon Vultures had reduced the victim to bones and clothing. If you do not believe me Google "Griffon Vultures, Pyrenees, French hiker..." It was creepy when I heard it, which was before this incident.
When my walking companion shouted, I had my poncho hood up and cinched against the rain and snow, so I had "tunnel vision." My walking companion bailed out left - up the slope into the bushes. I, duh!? bailed out to the right... You guessed it...
Fortunately, I had the presence of mind to place my hand atop my Leki super-lightweight hiking pole. The pole literally bowed like a standard archery bow, but did not snap while holding all of my weight 115 kg plus all my gear. My mind sort of went blank at that point, but I regained composure on my knees at the edge of the path / dropoff. Several people were asking me if I was alright. I was, but it took a minute to get up, regain my composure, and start walking again.
The two spandex-covered mountain biking cyclists came out of nowhere and made no announcement, shout bell or horn, etc. One moment we were talking and admiring the scenery. The next instant I was looking at eternity... They disappeared as fast as they arrived with not a word exchanged as I recall...but my mind was a bit preoccupied at that moment.
It was not until two days later, as I was recounting this story to two fellow pilgrims from Ireland over a few pints, that my Kiwi walking companion told me that the first cyclist just blew by us without any reaction or sound. However, the second cyclist managed to dump his bike in the brush on the high-side and grab my rucksack straps as he was doing so, just before I went over the edge. During this, he said nothing.
I had no recollection of that happening. It must have been the adrenaline...or looking certain death in the eye. Anyway, my Guardian Angel was working overtime that day. I was grateful to the anonymous cyclist who likely saved my life and to the Leki pole which certainly saved my life. One of the first things I did on returning home in June was to by another set of Leki poles that are heavier duty and stiffer...
My point is that certain sections of the Camino Frances are more dangerous than others. Yes, on some sections there is not really enough room for both cyclists and walking pilgrims. Yes, something should be done about it. But WHAT? And by Who?
All walking pilgrims must take extra care. That said, and despite my near-death experience, I DO NOT sanction poles in spokes, etc.
IDEAS:
I DO however have constructive suggestions. This will likely not happen. But, I will put it out there anyway. One never knows...
1. For Walking Pilgrims:
Previously, I have suggested that locations issuing credentials to newly starting off pilgrims also issue them one or more trash pickup bags imprinted with the Camino association's logo. The stated purpose is to enable every credentialed pilgrim the means to collect trash along the Camino. If only half of the 200k or so pilgrims that walk the
Camino Frances each year had one of these bags actually used it, there would be no trash along the
Camino Frances - period. These would be the same bags previously handed out in supermarkets, but now mostly banned in the developed world.
For extra utility, I would obtain the bags in day-glo orange or yellow so they could easily be attached to a rucksack for added visibility when walking along roads in low visibility situations. I would recommend printing the organization logo on one side, perhaps with the sponsor who funded the bags - perhaps French or Spanish supermarket chains?
On the reverse side could be printed a map of the Camino with icons showing where full bags can be deposited in approved trash containers. I wonder if Eroski might not be interested in something like this as a promotional tie-in? They already do quite a lot to support the Camino. See (
www.eroski.es). The Camino map could also indicate where they (the sponsor) have markets...just thinking out loud folks...trying to broker a "win-win" solution...it's what I do...
2. For Cycling Pilgrims:
My idea as regards cycling pilgrims is to to provide each intending pilgrim who indicates that he/she will be doing the Camino on a bicycle an inexpensive, plastic, brightly colored, whistle on a string. There are many promotional item vendors who can provide these things inexpensively when obtained in bulk, and imprinted with - say a scallop shell on one side and an association logo or name on the other. The whistle comes with a printed "rules of the shared road" attached on a tag.
True, not all cycling pilgrims will use this. But if even one life is saved, including mine, this is certainly worth the expense.
Okay, I relinquish my soap box for today...
Happy Christmas to all, and to all a nice day!