LIVE from the Camino Camino home to home, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

[JabbaPapa]

There's the question of my physical capabilities too, particularly in this season. I think I will have to start including some hitch-hiking earlier than I'd hoped.

Don't think I can make it to Roncesvalles without at least some of it, just for starters.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 354 - - Zubiri

I got the bus out to Olloiki to get started, then walked on a local hiking trail by the river to get out, then mostly on tarmac up to Zubiri. I saw only three pilgrims on the trail, all in the same place, though it seemed like a dozen or so stayed here last night.

Weather was cloudy, but I stayed in t-shirt and cape, the difficult thing was that nothing was open until Zubiri, except one restaurant that refused to serve me from no bar service.

My joints suffered a bit, though the disaster of the day was the broken phone.

And I am running out of antiinflammatories, but the Pharmacy only opens at 10:30, so not sure how I'll organise myself today, as the 20K up to Roncesvalles is definitely beyond my ability.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The only thing that makes any sense today is wait and get the bus.

I am both mentally and physically tired, in normal circumstances I would take a rest day, and this is the only close equivalent. Except that in normal circumstances, I would have taken three days to get up to Roncesvalles.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have started to consider a route onwards from SJPP, and it might be that a sensible one would be to head towards Oloron-Sainte-Marie via Saint-Palais and Navarrenx.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 355 - - Roncesvalles

Well, I am indeed in Roncesvalles.

No idea about tomorrow, there's some access code in the shop apparently, but whilst it's a tourist shop on the international border, it's also New Year's Day, so dunno.

I had been looking forward to the snazzy new accommodations I keep hearing about, but instead they have put us into the old style rubbish metal bunk beds. Sigh.

I spent the morning and early afternoon in Zubiri nursing a couple of beers, and sitting in the Sun when it came out. Then a local invited me over to his family place for a plate of ham and eggs, which was most kind, then the bus up.

Nothing else than what I wrote earlier. Many Koreans again ...

 

[VNwalking]

I had been looking forward to the snazzy new accommodations I keep hearing about, but instead they have put us into the old style rubbish metal bunk beds.

Ah well. One of the joys of being pilgrims, not tourists.

I also encountered many Korean pilgrims on one of my caminos which coincided with holidays in Korea. They were a delight - many were Christian in fact, but all were more Christian in the deeper sense of the word than a whole lot of us Western pilgrims.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Ah well. One of the joys of being pilgrims, not tourists.

I also encountered many Korean pilgrims on one of my caminos which coincided with holidays in Korea. They were a delight - many were Christian in fact, but all were more Christian in the deeper sense of the word than a whole lot of us Western pilgrims.

No negative comment on my part about Koreans, just a remark about the current demographics.

For only the second time BTW I was in early enough for the Pilgrim Mass - - very sparsely attended, and I was the only pilgrim who went to it. New Year's Eve effect for the most part, as to the small congregation.

BTW Happy New Year !!

Just realised that I will be walking a few K on the Le Puy route for the first time ever. It was the last of the Major Camino routes in France that I hadn't set foot on.

 

[VNwalking]

For only the second time BTW I was in early enough for the Pilgrim Mass - - very sparsely attended, and I was the only pilgrim who went to it. New Year's Eve effect for the most part, as to the small congregation.

It is always beautiful, isn't it? Not surprised at tge few people. Midwinter, and New Years Eve.

BTW Happy New Year !!

And to you! Good onward journey home.

Just realised that I will be walking a few K on the Le Puy route for the first time ever. It was the last of the Major Camino routes in France that I hadn't set foot on.

Nice touch. I hope the weather is kind. And today a comfortable walk down to Valcarlos!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 356 - - Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

I am in France !!

I am in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques !!

I am on the Voie de Navarre !!

Pretty early start this morning. Climbing up to the top of the pass (tarmac version) was about as easy as it was last time, but the wind was very strong up on top there. And whilst all other conditions were theoretically OK for a strong hiker to get over the Napoleon Route, that wind was bad enough to make that a really bad idea.

Anyway, I started down in the wind, and it only died down a bit once I got to about 100 metres lower elevation and into the woods.

Then just relentless downhill with few resting spots, though I did find one very good one with an excellent water fountain.

Through and through and down and down until the Way reached tarmac. Saw five pilgrims on their first day.

Then, about 3K+ from Valcarlos, two young people stopped and offered me a lift to Arnéguy - - and at that stage I was already pretty sure that Valcarlos would be no go - - so I hopped in, down to Arnéguy, and yeah, even the big border shopping place was completely shut down. So there's no way the Albergue in Valcarlos will be open.

And as I was looking at routes for continuing to SJPP, tarmac or trail ?, same guys said, we're going to SJPP, and here I am !!

Hooray !!

The Pilgrim Office has given me a list of places to stay on the Way towards Lourdes, though the guy seemed mystified by my plan to detour via Saint-Palais and Navarrenx - - That's not the way !! But most of the places on the list are where I want to go through anyway, I just want to avoid one particular mountainous section.

hmmmm, I'll see, and take a closer look at it later and tomorrow.

At the Municipal, I found half a 75cl bottle of Goudaie beer in the fridge, the Ambrée version, there's cake on the table, I have a sandwich left over from the free ones they gave us at Roncesvalles, and some of my own beer left - - good, as only some of the bars and restaurants are open today, none of the shops.

I'll have to stay tomorrow to go to the Pharmacy and so on, but I'm happy.

 

[mspath]

Day 346 - - Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

I am in France !!

I am in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques !!

I am on the Voie de Navarre !!

Pretty early start this morning. Climbing up to the top of the pass (tarmac version) was about as easy as it was last time, but the wind was very strong up on top there. And whilst all other conditions were theoretically OK for a strong hiker to get over the Napoleon Route, that wind was bad enough to make that a really bad idea.

Anyway, I started down in the wind, and it only died down a bit once I got to about 100 metres lower elevation and into the woods.

Then just relentless downhill with few resting spots, though I did find one very good one with an excellent water fountain.

Through and through and down and down until the Way reached tarmac. Saw five pilgrims on their first day.

Then, about 3K+ from Valcarlos, two young people stopped and offered me a lift to Arnéguy - - and at that stage I was already pretty sure that Valcarlos would be no go - - so I hopped in, down to Arnéguy, and yeah, even the big border shopping place was completely shut down. So there's no way the Albergue in Valcarlos will be open.

And as I was looking at routes for continuing to SJPP, tarmac or trail ?, same guys said, we're going to SJPP, and here I am !!

Hooray !!

The Pilgrim Office has given me a list of places to stay on the Way towards Lourdes, though the guy seemed mystified by my plan to detour via Saint-Palais and Navarrenx - - That's not the way !! But most of the places on the list are where I want to go through anyway, I just want to avoid one particular mountainous section.

hmmmm, I'll see, and take a closer look at it later and tomorrow.

At the Municipal, I found half a 75cl bottle of Goudaie beer in the fridge, the Ambrée version, there's cake on the table, I have a sandwich left over from the free ones they gave us at Roncesvalles, and some of my own beer left - - good, as only some of the bars and restaurants are open today, none of the shops.

I'll have to stay tomorrow to go to the Pharmacy and so on, but I'm happy.

JabbaPapa,
Glad to read/learn that 1/1/2023 you are happily back in France! I look forward to reading more of your daily updates.
As one of your digital followers I wish you a safe continuation back home and Bonne Année!

 

[JabbaPapa]

@Bradypus is here.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have been looking at the accommodations list given by the Pilgrim Office, and apart from one variation, it seems sensible.

There are personal issues though that I would need to deal with, and whilst some help has been offered, I would need to work out my own organisation, so that I may still need to get to Saint-Palais. But then after that, no longer sure.

 

[VNwalking]

Happy New Year, indeed.

@Bradypus is here.

What, in SJPP? That sneaky guy.
Meanwhile, ease to you and bon chemin!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Saint-Palais, Navarrenx, and a few K on the Le Puy route are out of consideration, from there being nowhere reasonable to stay, and really just too much detour out of my way.

I still have one day to walk on the Voie de Navarre before heading to the Piémont Way, and before that hopefully a couple of nights more in SJPP.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 357 - - SJPP

hmmm, I seem to be hitting a bit of a brick wall.

Winter lodgings on the variant of the Arles and Piémont Ways between Oloron-Sainte-Marie and SJPP are a lot more scarce than those on the Francès on the Spanish side, which doesn't really surprise, but what does surprise me is that the same seems to be true on the Le Puy route.

In any case, I need to do some Camino planning, which I wasn't really expecting to this degree nor at this stage of the affair - - my initial idea about going via Saint-Palais was based on an assumption that most lodgings would be closed at least on the start of the way out of SJPP towards Oloron, but it may turn out to be the case that the little local bus to Saint-Palais then walk on, or some hitch-hiking, may be the only possibilities.

Anyway, got one of my prescription medications this morning, and getting the second this afternoon. And at the supermarket, having looked at the ham, then the sausages, my eyes were drawn to the pâté, that they had not seen since Spring last year, so there's my lunch.

As to the weather, well, I'm on the Atlantic side now, and it's the Pyrenees, so it's cool, damp, and rainy.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Simply having the correct antiinflammatory instead of an over-the-counter substitute, as I did for the past couple of months or so, makes a huge difference.

I am still trying to work out some itinerary forward, which is rather difficult in Winter, although things seem more feasible between Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Lourdes.

The old priest at Arudy has sadly retired, but it seems that his younger successor is continuing with the pilgrim hospitality.

Some other places in the vicinity of Mauléon-Licharre and Oloron may or may not be open, and the Pilgrim Office here in SJPP is looking into these things for me, and will give me their findings tomorrow.

Anyway, my way out of here is certainly going to be the little bus to Saint-Palais, and from there, another little bus towards Mauléon-Licharre or thereabouts, depending on what the Pilgrim Office discovers.

A full Winter hike from SJPP to Lourdes seems to be difficult on the first part of it unless you were a strong hiker with a tent and/or enough money for some more expensive options. None of which is true for me.

Between about February/March and October/early November seems to be the only reasonable period for it, including in the "normal" direction Lourdes > SJPP for the section after Oloron. For a Winter Camino on that route, I would definitely recommend walking from Lourdes to Mauléon or so, then bus from there to SJPP via Saint-Palais. And it is not lightly that such a "purist" as myself would recommend busing any part of any Camino.

The Municipal is well populated tonight, about a dozen pilgrims.

As to the weather, whilst it's still too warm, there was a teensy hint of snow in the smell of the rain yesterday in the later afternoon. I would guess in the next week or two the first snow will start to hit the summits here.

 

[Former member 104756]

Bonjour @JabbaPapa

I don't know if this is helpful, but when we walked the Chemin du Piemont in April this year, between Mauleon-Licharre and SJPP, we stayed with Sandra near Saint Just Ibarre. I don't know if she will be open, but she was very kind and welcoming.

I know from another pilgrim we met (one of just three in three weeks) she also transported him from one town to another as he was having some problems and, as you know, there is some climbing! So, if you are stuck she may be able to help.

Gîte AOTZANIA ( Sandra tempestini) Tel:06 19 12 35 57 -​

In Mauleon-Licharre we ended up in an Airbnb, as there was nothing else open at that time.

Bon chemin.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Closed for the Winter, but thanks.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Well, regarding a Winter route from Lourdes to SJPP, a stronger hiker could switch to the end of the Le Puy route by going downriver from Mauléon-Licharre to Navarrenx > Aroue, I think there are Albergue possibilities in both places ; but in my own situation that's unfortunately not a good option for me the other way, though it might have been in some slightly different circumstances.

 

[nycwalking]

Simply having the correct antiinflammatory instead of an over-the-counter substitute, as I did for the past couple of months or so, makes a huge difference.

I am still trying to work out some itinerary forward, which is rather difficult in Winter, although things seem more feasible between Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Lourdes.

The old priest at Arudy has sadly retired, but it seems that his younger successor is continuing with the pilgrim hospitality.

Some other places in the vicinity of Mauléon-Licharre and Oloron may or may not be open, and the Pilgrim Office here in SJPP is looking into these things for me, and will give me their findings tomorrow.

Anyway, my way out of here is certainly going to be the little bus to Saint-Palais, and from there, another little bus towards Mauléon-Licharre or thereabouts, depending on what the Pilgrim Office discovers.

A full Winter hike from SJPP to Lourdes seems to be difficult on the first part of it unless you were a strong hiker with a tent and/or enough money for some more expensive options. None of which is true for me.

Between about February/March and October/early November seems to be the only reasonable period for it, including in the "normal" direction Lourdes > SJPP for the section after Oloron. For a Winter Camino on that route, I would definitely recommend walking from Lourdes to Mauléon or so, then bus from there to SJPP via Saint-Palais. And it is not lightly that such a "purist" as myself would recommend busing any part of any Camino.

The Municipal is well populated tonight, about a dozen pilgrims.

As to the weather, whilst it's still too warm, there was a teensy hint of snow in the smell of the rain yesterday in the later afternoon. I would guess in the next week or two the first snow will start to hit the summits here.

Glad meds are sorted.

Gosh!

I wish I were there.

Buen Camino.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am still trying to find a way to actually walk all the way from SJPP to Lourdes, and I think I'm coming up with a plan.

 

[JabbaPapa]

OK - - the plan is start again on Friday morning from SJPP then > Ostabat > Aroue > Navarrenx > (somewhere else TBD) > Oloron-Sainte-Marie > etc.

So the Le Puy Way is back on the menu, because there are no reasonable sleeping possibilities whatsoever on the Piémont Way in Winter between SJPP and at least l'Hôpital Saint-Blaise.

It's purely from my need for access to a cash machine on Friday that it has to be that day rather than tomorrow, but I absolutely did need these two extra days to work out which plan is valid and which other plans are not.

A couple of brainstorming sessions over these past two days with @SEB2 were extremely helpful, and thank you !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am so glad that I took the precaution of carrying this backup phone device, else that Windows Phone breakage could have put yet another premature stop to this Camino, after the first three (injury, heat, food).

I am grateful too that the difficulties I was facing as to the route &c. between SJPP and Lourdes are getting resolved thanks to help from others, both on or from the forum and locally, but instead of the usual cliché, no matter how much a loner or how isolated in the sticks or elsewhere, no pilgrim ever walks alone.

Apparently there were about 20 or so pilgrims in SJPP last night, so the numbers have started rising again.

Weather is better today, wind down, no rain ATM, and the Sun occasionally peeking through the clouds.

I am so glad to have finally walked from Compostela to SJPP as I had been wanting to do for near 30 years, but only now did opportunity and availability coincide to let it happen.

A very long time for this to come together, and now it has.

Just had the news that nothing is open in Ostabat, not even the hotel, and that the Municipal place in l'Hôpital Saint-Blaise is also closed, but these details will not stop me.

Ultreia.

 

[JabbaPapa]

If it turns out that I do need a morning bus to Saint-Palais then walk to Aroue from there, then so be it. But I will explore other options first.

 

[NorthernLight]

The municipal office building in Ostabat had a shower & toilet room in the basement, accessible from the outside at the back. If they don’t lock it at night, it might make decent shelter.

The Chapelle de Soyartz, on the hill between Harambeltz and Hiriburia (stele de Gibraltar) has a shelter room with bench and table (and running water outside assuming it’s not turned off).

 

[VNwalking]

I wish I knew enough to be of help, but am very glad others are able to give you useful information. Good wishes will have to do. Hoping you are able to walk, @JabbaPapa, and to walk comfortably! At least you have the medication you need, and are now back in paté-land. Small but important blessings.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Yes, it's likely a simple shelter that I'll be aiming towards on Friday, but at Utziate.

 

[mspath]

JabbaPapa,

Have yiu seen this?

Gîte pèlerins gratuit · D933, 64120 Larceveau-Arros-Cibits, France

★★★★★ · Camping cabin

maps.app.goo.gl

Good luck and please keep posting.

 

[JabbaPapa]

That's the one.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Days 358 and 359 - - SJPP

Not much to tell.

Thanks to a forum member, I have been in the Albergue Le Chemin vers l'Étoile for a couple of nights, and I'll have one last night at the Municipal before heading out on Friday. Yesterday I crossed the road to the épicerie and that was it.

The weather has been good, but I have just stayed in all the time, and eating very little.

The hospitalero here is very nice, and the place is well located for a start towards the Napoleon route.

There's a breakfast available, but it's stuff that I can't eat - - and I actually had a little trouble from too much Municipal breakfast bread on Tuesday.

I'll be more out and about today.

I think that I will probably need to sleep somewhere at Saint-Palais on Saturday, as the distance between Utxiat and Aroue is a bit long, I'll have to see if the Parish Priest can't help. Lodgings there are very expensive, and the Albergue looks like being closed for Winter. Or hitch-hike to Aroue ? Haven't checked yet if the Albergue in Aroue is open (should be), but I'll sort that stuff out later.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Last day in SJPP. It's a bit cooler and damper this morning, but should be fine later in the day.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am back in the Municipal.

There *may* be a possibility for an affordable bed in Saint-Palais, and I am beginning to understand why the Miam Miam Dodo thing is so important on the Le Puy Way. Well, just a few days for me, and I won't really need that sourcebook, but it is clear that from Le Puy forward, it looks like an essential.

There are sniffles around, which seem to be this year's seasonal flu.

Sun is out again, though it's not so warm as the past couple of days.

I'll be happy to reach Navarrenx and the less doubtful section of this route between SJPP and Lourdes.

 

[J Willhaus]

Somehow lost your forum alert notifications a few days ago, but glad to see you are getting closer to home. Maybe someone could scan and send you the few pages you need from MMDD? I don't have one, but I am sure others do...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Aroue and Navarrenx seem to be up and running.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have somewhere to sleep at Harambeltz on Saturday.

 

[JabbaPapa]

So it only took five days to organise my next steps forward.

 

[NorthernLight]

There is a bus that runs from Saint Palais to past Aroue. I don’t know it’s end point but it may be of help.

I tried to send you pics from an old Miam Miam - 2012 edition but it seems I can’t upload from my photos. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I tried to send you pics from an old Miam Miam - 2012 edition but it seems I can’t upload from my photos. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

I think you have to be a donating member to upload on a PM. Perhaps a mod will clarify.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have four places to stay between SJPP and Navarrenx, with only Aroue not formally confirmed. But I have been told that it's open.

 

[ivar]

I think you have to be a donating member to upload on a PM. Perhaps a mod will clarify.

Yes, only donating members can add photos to a PM. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/account/upgrades/

 

[JabbaPapa]

Days 360 and 361 - - SJPP ; Utxiat

Not much to say about yesterday, moved from the private Albergue back to the Municipal, did some shopping, not much else.

Weather today was quite nice, though the walking was quite contrasted.

All tarmac, and I did go mostly on the main road, just to get the Ks down. And good thing, given that I tarried overmuch before setting out, because it was still dusk when I arrived, and now night has already fallen.

When the walking was on little country lanes it was delightful, in beautiful sunshine and with the backdrop of the Pyrenees, whereas on the main road, it was quite tedious and a reminder of the more boring parts of walking through France, and also of why I won't be walking all the way home. Though if I had reached here in early November, I think I would have, at least more than I will be now.

On the way, I discovered that there's more than one pizza machine, as there is a second one in Lacarre, at the entrance to the village. Guess there must be a few of them, scattered around here.

Oh, I have just spoken to the lady of the house at Aroue - - so I have beds to sleep in over the next three nights. Hooray !!

The shelter in Utxiat is fine as far as it goes, good mattresses which is the most important. I'll be warm enough.

 

[mspath]

JabbaPapa,
Thanks for your update. So glad to read that you have arrived in Utxiat and that more beds are in your near future. Sleep well.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Short day today, and still on the Navarre Way which seems to be what they are now calling the route between Saint-Palais and SJPP, and that is joined by the Le Puy and Paris/Tours routes, and later the Piémont. Historically, the juncture of the Le Puy and Vézelay Ways is at Saint-Palais, not out in the sticks where the GR hiking trails join up.

Slept well enough, despite the annoying seasonal flu, that many pilgrims and hospitaleros will be getting these weeks.

I bought some Rosette de Lyon sausage on the way out of SJPP yesterday, too dark in the shelter last night for my supper, but it's a nice breakfast with a little of the red wine that had also been intended for supper. My I had been missing the glorious and delicious French sausages !!

My antiinflammatory/beer ratio is right off though, as I have still not compensated back from now having the proper antiinflammatory. Less pain should mean less beer, but that hasn't happened yet.

Might or might not be able to get a coffee a couple K down the road, but honestly I assume not, and that there'll be nothing in Ostabat either.

This pilgrim shelter must be fairly pleasant in the warm season, assuming you have your supplies, and the thick stone walls must keep you quite cool, just as they keep out the worst of the winter chill.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Finishing the wine, it helps with the inflammation, and one less thing to carry.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 362 - - Harambeltz

The walk turned out to be harder than expected, even though it was all on either trail or little country lane, with just one short section on a cycling/hiking/Camino lane beside the main road. My body really wants this to end now. Just a few days more I tell it ...

Two locals came in to check the shelter at Utxiat in the morning, I guess among other things they are making sure no tramps take over the place.

Then two pilgrims looked in, a Dutch couple on their day 2 having started from Saint-Palais. They were happy for some info about places to stay in SJPP, the Aprinca page, and go via Valcarlos.

It was cool and cloudy. Unfortunately, the épicerie in Ostabat which functions as a bar is currently closed due to some family problem or other, no idea what kind and not my business, but it did mean no resupply.

The Albergue here is very pleasant, comfortable beds, the lady of the house organised our laundry (another peregrino, from Slovenia, is here), and there is a little mini-épicerie for some resupply, expensive but very good that it's here. One inexpensive feature of it though is its cider, local, excellent, and just €4.

There was a dinner, but all stuff that I can't eat, so good thing I wasn't that hungry. I did have a small piece of the pizza and a drop of the wine, wine was very good, for no charge. Good people.

Dorm is all proper beds and warm blankets, most cosy.

The flu is almost gone.

Complicated day today, I'll have to zig-zag between various routes to avoid the GR route which pointlessly crosses over three hills or so, and takes lengthy detours away from the shorter options.

See how it goes, possibly I could hitch-hike the end of it if that turned out to be necessary, but I hope not. The last part of it will anyway be on the road out from Saint-Palais to Aroue etc.

 

[mspath]

Day 362 - - Harambeltz

.....
Complicated day today, I'll have to zig-zag between various routes to avoid the GR route which pointlessly crosses over three hills or so, and takes lengthy detours away from the shorter options.

See how it goes, possibly I could hitch-hike the end of it if that turned out to be necessary, but I hope not. The last part of it will anyway be on the road out from Saint-Palais to Aroue etc.

JabbaPapa,
Thanks for your update. Glad that you were comfortable last night. Hope that today is not too difficult and all goes well to Aroue. Take care.

 

[JabbaPapa]

What ended up making most sense was to come through Saint-Palais. I'm eating a French menu, rather expensive compared to Spain or Portugal, but I have been missing this sort of food so much, so all good. From here, straight down the road to Aroue.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 363 - - Aroue

I am on the Voie du Puy !!

Interesting day !!

The hike over the hill towards Saint-Palais felt a lot like a typical rainy hike in England, insofar as I can remember them, or Wales, except that the mountains on the horizon are somewhat more impressive than some British range of hills.

The rain was similar though, come and go, rain or drizzle, and so on.

Lunch was great, in the Brasserie in the middle of town, and at the very point where the Le Puy and Vézelay routes join up historically.

Assiette de charcuterie, Entrecôte Bordelaise, and a white tiramisú, the latter being rather hard to find even in Italy. A half litre of a perfectly decent red. Bordeaux I think.

Then I headed out, easy walking on pretty flat tarmac. But I looked at time plus distance, and thought I couldn't finish before about 8PM which seemed quite late, so I started trying to hitch a lift as I went on.

After 30-40 minutes of this, and I had walked through two hamlets during this time, a gentleman stopped and offered me a lift. Came into the conversation he was off to Mass, Traditional Latin Mass, so of course I said oh cool (or something), and went along. I'll avoid talking about some religious politics here.

Good Mass anyway, a young congregation, families and many children.

The Traditional Latin Mass has punctuated this Camino to some significant degree.

Of course this defeated my purpose of getting in early to the Albergue. I did have an offer of bed and lodging from the Abbé, but I felt that it was proper to honour my commitment to the Albergue in Aroue, so the fellow drove me back.

After some searching around and a phone call the place was located, my driver very kindly and rather unexpectedly passed me some cash to get along with, the Camino provides yadda yadda, then I trudged in some stronger rain up the 400 metres from the main road to the Albergue, which is the property of a kind retired age couple of locals, good-natured, helpful, straightforward.

They have a small pseudo-épicerie, though after the substantial midday meal earlier, I just got some wine ; but there's some stuff for tomorrow potentially, including enough beers to get along with.

The wine at lunch was pretty nice, but this cheap Languedoc goes down well enough.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 364 - - Navarrenx

A shorter but very wet day.

The Albergue last night is located about 1.5K beyond the village, as well as being in the middle of a shortcut that dodges another 1K, so that after setting off after breakfast in the morning, which was typical French bread, butter, jam, bowl of coffee with milk, quickly enough I had reached the next village and was already 5K along the official distance.

The wet weather actually made for good walking conditions, but I really would not have wanted to get out on any dirt trail in this.

Still, I did avoid the worst downpour at what claimed to be about the 10K mark, probably just 7K from my perspective. There, one finds a couple of covered benches to shelter at from the rain, but even better it's a pâté and other conserves manufacturer, with samples laid out with an honesty box, and special prices for pilgrims. So I had something lovely to eat while waiting for the rain to die down again.

Off on more tarmac then, instead of the trail, which probably cut off at least another 2-3K off the official distance, though I did not avoid the second worst of the rain showers - - they were coming in waves - - but the combination of all of these shortcuts turned what was allegedly a 19K into an 11-13K or something, so that I got in as early as 3:30 PM !!

I'm at the Alchimiste place, which seems a bit odd, but with comfortable beds. Bohemian anyway. There are two other pilgrims, both having started at Le Puy.

I think there's some supper thing later.

The rain did cool me down a bit too much, but I have grabbed a large pile of blankets and expect no problems, though the rain does seem to have made this evening colder than the others recently.

 

[nycwalking]

Day 364 - - Navarrenx

A shorter but very wet day.

The Albergue last night is located about 1.5K beyond the village, as well as being in the middle of a shortcut that dodges another 1K, so that after setting off after breakfast in the morning, which was typical French bread, butter, jam, bowl of coffee with milk, quickly enough I had reached the next village and was already 5K along the official distance.

The wet weather actually made for good walking conditions, but I really would not have wanted to get out on any dirt trail in this.

Still, I did avoid the worst downpour at what claimed to be about the 10K mark, probably just 7K from my perspective. There, one finds a couple of covered benches to shelter at from the rain, but even better it's a pâté and other conserves manufacturer, with samples laid out with an honesty box, and special prices for pilgrims. So I had something lovely to eat while waiting for the rain to die down again.

Off on more tarmac then, instead of the trail, which probably cut off at least another 2-3K off the official distance, though I did not avoid the second worst of the rain showers - - they were coming in waves - - but the combination of all of these shortcuts turned what was allegedly a 19K into an 11-13K or something, so that I got in as early as 3:30 PM !!

I'm at the Alchimiste place, which seems a bit odd, but with comfortable beds. Bohemian anyway. There are two other pilgrims, both having started at Le Puy.

I think there's some supper thing later.

The rain did cool me down a bit too much, but I have grabbed a large pile of blankets and expect no problems, though the rain does seem to have made this evening colder than the others recently.

I’ve somewhat lost track.

How many consecutive days have you been walking?

Over what time frame? Years? Months?

 

[JabbaPapa]

I’ve somewhat lost track.

How many consecutive days have you been walking?

Over what time frame? Years? Months?

I started about four years ago, and had to stop three times for various reasons.

This year I have been walking for over seven months though, and about 3,000K. This year's total in days is 224.

It's about 5,000K total.

 

[David Tallan]

Lunch was great, in the Brasserie in the middle of town, and at the very point where the Le Puy and Vézelay routes join up historically.

I had heard that the Paris, Le Puy, and Vezelay routes joined in or around Ostabat. Is that not the case? I think I had seen a photo of a marker of some sort at that spot.

 

[NorthernLight]

I had heard that the Paris, Le Puy, and Vezelay routes joined in or around Ostabat. Is that not the case? I think I had seen a photo of a marker of some sort at that spot.

I think the Tours/Paris and Vezelay meet in Saint Palais. Currently the Le Puy joins them either at the Stele de Gibraltar south of Saint Palais, or in a field between Uhart-Mixe and Harambeltz, a couple km before Ostabat, depending on which variant is followed. Historically, Le Puy pilgrims likely went through Saint Palais; Jabba says they did and he’s pretty knowledgeable about such things.

Tomorrow will represent a full year of walking.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Tomorrow will represent a full year of walking.

Well, given that this Camino stretches over four years, in a pedantic sense I would have to compensate against February 29th 2020 in the count, so the full year would pedantically be on Day 366, but yes, symbolically the 365 number is of course potent and meaningful.

More practically, this Camino has involved all of the twelve different months, except for a month of March, because in March 2019 I was still recovering from the injury that stopped my stage 1, and in March 2022 I was tied up with stuff to do at home and couldn't restart until May. March 2020 and 2021 lockdown stuff.

Dinner was OK, though first course was a veggie soup made almost entirely of stuff I absolutely cannot eat, but I did taste a tiny amount of it, and it was good. Main course though was a pot-au-feu that was wonderful, and he had made a very interesting pain d'épices for dessert.

The Alchemist is basically closed in Winter, and only opens when he feels like doing so. There's some confusion about where the current normal place to sleep might be, though my understanding is that the Parish Albergue is in the process of reopening after some renovation work.

He's letting us stay on a basis of Donativo.

And he is a very good gentleman.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 365 - - Oloron-Sainte-Marie

I am on the Piémont Way !!

But a qualitative change has come upon this Camino, and I think that it is time for me to recognise that my journey back home from the Camino has begun.

The weather today is absolutely fantastic, and what hiking I did was along those lovely French country lanes I love so much, through picturesque little villages, against a backdrop of magnificent snow-capped Pyrenees.

But with so many Albergues closed, the distance to speed ratio has just become too high for me, so I started, with regret towards the otherwise near perfect conditions, to put my thumb out for a lift ; and a young local on his way home from work kindly went out of his way to bring me to Oloron.

And it was clear from how long that drive took, it would have been too much to walk.

The walking isn't finished, not quite, but it's increasingly clear from all the signs that the end of my Camino is nigh.

Anyway, I got in early enough for lunchtime, roast pork and a dessert.

Hopefully I can find somewhere proper to sleep, I still want to attempt the walk from here to Lourdes. And it should be possible. I hope.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Been a while since last time, but I have the floor of the Parish Sunday School classroom.

The épicerie up here is supposed to be opening about now, hope so.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Quite the opposite of glamorous, the best place to sleep here, just for body heat reasons, is a tiny corridor/storage space leading to the loo, from being the only place in here with any hope of warmth, plus the toilet is right here and a plug socket for the phone is in there too.

eh, despite no mattresses, functionally, it's more pleasant here than in the shelter at Utxiat.

Electric, running water, a toilet, and a smaller space to sleep in, less frozen.

Digging into my rosette sausage.

 

[nycwalking]

Day 365 - - Oloron-Sainte-Marie

I am on the Piémont Way !!

But a qualitative change has come upon this Camino, and I think that it is time for me to recognise that my journey back home from the Camino has begun.

The weather today is absolutely fantastic, and what hiking I did was along those lovely French country lanes I love so much, through picturesque little villages, against a backdrop of magnificent snow-capped Pyrenees.

But with so many Albergues closed, the distance to speed ratio has just become too high for me, so I started, with regret towards the otherwise near perfect conditions, to put my thumb out for a lift ; and a young local on his way home from work kindly went out of his way to bring me to Oloron.

And it was clear from how long that drive took, it would have been too much to walk.

The walking isn't finished, not quite, but it's increasingly clear from all the signs that the end of my Camino is nigh.

Anyway, I got in early enough for lunchtime, roast pork and a dessert.

Hopefully I can find somewhere proper to sleep, I still want to attempt the walk from here to Lourdes. And it should be possible. I hope.

I hope so as well.

Keep walking.

Buen camino.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Late start this morning, certainly from sleeping late, but also because the morning rain was bad. It's calmed down a little, but there we go.

I had the second tin of pâté from the pâté place for breakfast, plus a bottle of wine, while waiting for the rain to diminish a little, and both were fine.

It seems that after those sad decades of wine mixing that made nearly all cheap French wines near undrinkable, the most basic French tipple has once again become better than the basic Spanish. Which had not been the case for decades, since I'd say the late 1980s.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 366 - - Liouret (Herrère)

Bad walking day, this really is becoming overly difficult.

There was a long stretch of pathway along the river, quite muddy and occasionally becoming a mud path through fields that was bad enough, including because of the rain and few places to sit for a rest.

It did broaden out a bit later, and I even got a lift for 1 to 1.5 K or so on that broader track.

But then I hit one of those really nasty deep mud patches of the Piémont, and it was very difficult. I did get round the worst of it in the woods next to the track, and when I slipped it was not right into the mud, but then a backpack shoulder strap snapped, so I was balancing the pack, trying to get a grip with my staff in mud, trying not to slip, and keep my own balance on the mud, and avoid getting my boots stuck in it !!

Horrid.

But I managed to push my way up into some more muddy fields and more rain.

Anyway I reached the hamlet, and after a short rest, realised going on even to the village was no go, and asked at a farmhouse if they could give me a place to sleep in a barn or something, so I ended up sleeping on the floor of their little boiler room which is in their barn out back.

Not completely freezing then, and the lady of the house also provided a bowl of hot soup and a ham sandwich with butter.

I'll walk to Arudy, but it is going to have to become tarmac and potential hitch-hiking to Lourdes now.

The Piémont is a bad Camino in Winter.

 

[JabbaPapa]

OK so I didn't walk, at least no more than about 2-3K.

Got a nice hitch to Arudy.

There was a morning chill, including frost in the fields, some damp has got into my right army boot, but mostly there's the kind of deep fatigue from over seven months of hiking since the end of May that can't be ended by some normal rest days. It's into my bones, so that only a longer rest at home will fix it.

Well, at least the pilgrimage to Lourdes itself is far less dependent on one's means of locomotion, unless of course one is walking through there to Santiago on the Way of Saint James, else on the Via Romea, both of which have been passing through Lourdes for centuries past.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 367 - - Arudy

Unfortunately, this is becoming increasingly pointless.

It's good that the Parish Albergue in Arudy is open, but with no cats, no Joan Baez, no genial warmth, and with two non-pilgrim/semi-pilgrim jobseekers sleeping here (good fellows, nothing at all against them), it's not the same, and doesn't feel like the Camino, despite the fact that I have slept in similar company and circumstance multiple times.

I had a menu, mainly because yesterday was so awful, and it is good that it was four courses rather than three.

But it just feels like going against a brick wall, and every signal I'm getting is telling me to stop ASAP.

I don't know what I'll do tomorrow, but hitching straight to Lourdes is a possibility.

 

[Corned Beef]

You've done enough. Take a rest.

Even Hercules had a rest after his twelve labours but don't follow his example

According to Euripides' play Herakles, it is at this point after his labours are completed and he is returning home to meet his wife and family that he is driven mad and kills them, after which he is exiled from Thebes and leaves to Athens.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The new priest here is brilliant.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I may have someone to drive me to Lourdes, but in any case I will try to get there today.

 

[Former member 104756]

The Alchemist is basically closed in Winter, and only opens when he feels like doing so. There's some confusion about where the current normal place to sleep might be, though my understanding is that the Parish Albergue is in the process of reopening after some renovation work.

He's letting us stay on a basis of Donativo.

And he is a very good gentleman.

Ah, that brings back happy memories. I stayed with/at l’alchimiste in Navarrenx in 2014 and it was memorable.

Bonne continuation @JabbaPapa et bon chemin

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am still in Arudy, and the driver in question may be able to get me to Lourdes this afternoon, else sleep here another night, and make my way tomorrow.

Strongly tempted towards another four course menu.

 

[J Willhaus]

What were the 4 courses? Sounds like something you could eat without too much inflammation so I would go for it!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Soup, mushrooms, veal stew bits, choccy cake.

 

[J Willhaus]

Soup, mushrooms, veal stew bits, choccy cake.

Yum!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 368 - - Arudy

So, no car this afternoon, and I'll go to Mass in the morning, and then Lourdes later.

Someone made an offer on behalf of someone else, which almost never works, so that was my day.

 

[chinacat]

Sleep well tonight, tomorrow might be your final day!

How will it feel to hang up your boots, your hat, your cloak and your staff and to look back on all you have achieved?

It’s been a long, long, long walk!!

 

[JabbaPapa]

The last major objective will be done, but there's still a journey home, so not quite finished yet.

 

[chinacat]

Won’t that be a swifter journey?

Though the homecoming journey can seem to take forever ….

 

[JabbaPapa]

Of course, but it's still more than just travel.

Otherwise ...

Day 369 - - Lourdes

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 370 - -

I am in the Hautes-Pyrénées !!

Well, the weather makes hitch-hiking impossible, so that basically forces me to consider a train.

And Lourdes is in the Occitanie region, so that actually makes it easier.

Anyway, I was thinking last night that I am putting up too much resistance to the reality that it's time for me to just get home.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Problem being it's Sunday rail service, and it's already a bit late.

 

[JabbaPapa]

It's odd - - this arrival in Lourdes seems to resemble many pilgrims' arrivals in Santiago, whereas as to myself I have never really "finished" in Santiago, but have always at the very least hitch-hiked back, even the 1993. But this, hic et nunc, is an end, and I think I'm just not used to it. There are positives to this kind of arrival that I was unaware of, despite observing them generally in others, from never having done anything of the sort myself.

I am tranquil in Lourdes as I never could be in Santiago, which always has been and always would be the starting point of my journey home back from Pilgrimage.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am in the newer of the two Albergues in Lourdes, the Lindo Carillon, which is closed in principle, as the lord of the house has suffered an injury. But he had one last bed already prepared, didn't want to leave me outside, and so I am here with donativo.

Better than where I slept last night, though I did get a good pilgrim price for that

I had a big steak for lunch, from needing one.

Lourdes is in off-season quiet, and so strange if you have been here before in other circumstances. Nearly everything is shut, Congregation at Mass this morning at the grotto was minuscule, and so on. Though I imagine that the rain kept some people away who would have been here otherwise.

I reached the grotto only in time for the consecration, and so could not receive the material Communion from not having heard the gospel, but I did partake of the spiritual Communion.

It's still touristy and expensive though, even off-season.

 

[mspath]

JabbaPapa,

This latest weather report for France starting Monday 16/01/2023 was just published in Liberation. Do take extreme care as you continue to travel.

 

[Bala]

@JabbaPapa , I've been following your pilgrimage since 2019 and it makes me very happy on your behalf to think of you now in Lourdes. Yes, always touristy and expensive but somehow, once on the grounds, that all fades into the background, doesn't it?

But miniscule crowds at the grotto? I guess I'll have to go back some cold, rainy January!

Peace be with you.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Didn't get to sleep until after 1AM, so missed the earliest trains, but I'm heading out soon.

 

[VNwalking]

Safe home, pilgrim.
Well done.

 

[mspath]

Bon voyage, JabbaPapa!
Godspeed.

 

[JabbaPapa]

JabbaPapa,

This latest weather report for France starting Monday 16/01/2023 was just published in Liberation. Do take extreme care as you continue to travel.

It pretty much just prevents the hitch-hiking, as previously said, and conditions for it would be worse this morning, it's colder, and there's snow on the way this week.

Just started out on the replacement bus service, and I'll be by the Mediterranean this afternoon.

 

[mspath]

It pretty much just prevents the hitch-hiking, as previously said, and conditions for it would be worse this morning, it's colder, and there's snow on the way this week.

Just started out on the replacement bus service, and I'll be by the Mediterranean this afternoon.

Thanks for the update! Will you go via Tarbes and/or Saint-Gaudens ? Hope you stay safe and warm.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I am in Tarbes right now.

 

[J Willhaus]

What a journey! A little rest in order. Does it feel strange to be moving along at bus/train speeds? After my much shorter Caminos, I always have to adjust to that.

 

[JabbaPapa]

What a journey! A little rest in order. Does it feel strange to be moving along at bus/train speeds? After my much shorter Caminos, I always have to adjust to that.

Strangely not, it's feeling natural ; I think because I really began my journey home about three months ago, and walking into France also did change things.

 

[Bradypus]

Ultreia! I was thinking about you this morning when I met a young man just outside Carrion de los Condes. He was walking home to the Czech Republic. You may have met him somewhere along the way: sallow complexion and moustache, large pack with an orange cover, small trolley with a guitar case, and a friendly grey shaggy dog

 

[JabbaPapa]

I've seen a bit of the Mediterranean, and it's so beautiful to be back in the South of France.

 

[Bradypus]

I've seen a bit of the Mediterranean, and it's so beautiful to be back in the South of France.

On my walk from Canterbury to Rome the emotional high point turned out to be reaching the Mediterranean coast after setting off from the North Sea. Probably because I had read John Hillaby's "Journey Through Europe" as a teenager and I never imagined at the time that I might one day do something similar.

 

[JabbaPapa]

It's very peaceful.

I came across a German fellow who wants to walk the Norte next summer.

 

[JabbaPapa]

No idea how far I'll get tonight.

I am in Avignon.

 

[Bradypus]

I am in Avignon.

Be very careful. An earlier bunch of Papas got stuck there for 67 years....

 

[JabbaPapa]

I think that I will sleep in my own bed tonight.

I will have to walk up the mountain, but blimey

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 372 -- HOME

More later, but 371 ended outside one last time in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

 

[J Willhaus]

Glad you are home, but I will miss following along on your travels. Sounds like you are there in time to miss the winter weather that @mspath posted about.

 

[VNwalking]

At last.
Welcome home pilgrim! In the nick of time as far a the weather is concerned. Good call.

What a journey. And now, a lot of rest, recovery, and reflection.

 

[henrythedog]

At last.
Welcome home pilgrim! In the nick of time as far a the weather is concerned. Good call.

What a journey. And now, a lot of rest, recovery, and reflection.

And write a book?

There are many less worthy already published…