Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

[BobM]

I plan to start walking from Vercelli (my stop last year) in mid June, and hope to reach Rome in late July - completing the VF from Canterbury.

I plan to fly into Rome first and take the train to Vercelli, but the problem will be to find a hotel willing to hold my unwanted baggage until I return a month later. I had problems in London when I started my VF, and also in Paris last year on phase 2.

Maybe Rome will be a bit more relaxed about holding luggage for extended periods, but I would welcome any ideas on any hotels that you think might be helpful to pilgrims in the matter.

Best wishes to every one for their own journeys in 2014.

Bob M

 

[newfydog]

We stayed in a wonderful guest house, near the Vatican, run by the nicest guy in Rome. He would do anything to help.

I'll dig it up. Send me a PM if I don't

 

[BobM]

Thx, newfydog. I will watch for it.

Bob M

 

[newfydog]

My wife found it!---------

B&B Bibi e Romeo's Home
info@bberomeo.com
Romeo +39.346.9656937


Romeo was a super nice guy who gave us lots of tour information and maps for Rome. We made our own breakfast every morning which included a really nice coffee and some sort of lovely home made cake from his wife, which was always huge and left for us to snack on all day. I can't really remember the room except that it was just fine and the location is just wonderful.
Also, as an added bonus, the cafeteria downstairs next door is run by the nicest ladies in Italy and has some of the best food. It's really cheap and totally local. When I told the ladies that in my hideously broken Italian, they just beamed and gave me an extra helping of their home made lasagne.
This is the information I received from Romeo in 2012:

"All rooms are with private ensuite bathroom , air condition, sat tv lcd, free internet adsl/wi-fi access and a great Italian breakfast self service.

.
The price for the Double room SUPERIOR is 100,00 euro per night
Italian Breakfast self service and touristic taxes included.

The B&B is very close to Vatican City, the heart of Rome.
A first nigh as a deposit will be requested by PayPal if you want to book with us.

We dont have a credit card and the balance remain will be cash at your arrival.
Our cancellation policy is 30 days before your arrival."

 

[BobM]

My wife found it!---------
B&B Bibi e Romeo's Home
info@bberomeo.com
Romeo +39.346.9656937
"

Excellent! My thanks to your wife.

I will email Romeo & see if he will hold my bag while I trudge down the leg of Italy.

BTW, a miracle happened to me after my walk from Besancon to Vercelli. My Dakota GPS had a total meltdown when I uploaded a GPX file to it at an internet café in Besancon. All maps, including the base map, and all my routes, WPs were wiped. Here's the miracle: Garmin replaced the whole unit and my Europe map. But only after a character-building struggle.

Regards

Bob M

 

[AJ]

I stayed in the spedale: they only allow 2 nights. It is donativo. Maybe they will allow you to leave your stuff there. Here is their email address:

pellegriniaroma@gmail.com

 

[BobM]

Thx to newfydog (+wife) and AJ for the helpful advice. Much obliged to you all.

Bibi e Romeo said they will keep my unwanted baggage while I walk to Rome, so I will book with them. They seem very nice people and had no problem with my email in English.

What a relief to have that problem solved. In phase 1 of the VF I had to take my excess baggage to Calais to find a hotel willing to keep it. That was quite a saga. Same thing in phase 2: I had to take my bag from Paris to Besancon. Then there was the added inconvenience of having to return to those towns to collect the bag.

Regards

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

I do not know if you are a fan of Alison Raju's guides - her guide to the Italian section of the Via Francigena has just been published.
Via Francigena – Pilgrim Trail Canterbury to Rome – 2: The Great St Bernard Pass to Rome, by Alison Raju, Cicerone Press, 2014, 342 pages, multiple photos and maps, £16.95, ISBN: 978-1-85284-607-7

 

[giorgio]

Hallo Bob, glad to hear about your plans for the VF next summer.
We live not far from Vercelli and ,depending upon what we'll be up to in the second half of june ,we might be able to meet. How do you plan to come back from Rome to Vercelli ? I remember having sent some links in the past about VF, do you need anything else ?
Have seen this which i think should be of help to you about pilgrim-style lodging on VF
http://www.viefrancigene.org/static/uploads/www.viefrancigene.org/elencoospitalitapellegrina.pdf
I know the friends of VF in Vercelli are a very active group of people ,will give'em a call to let them know about your walk.
Let me know of anything you might need
Giorgio

 

[BobM]

Hallo Bob, glad to hear about your plans for the VF next summer.
We live not far from Vercelli and ,depending upon what we'll be up to in the second half of june ,we might be able to meet. How do you plan to come back from Rome to Vercelli ? I remember having sent some links in the past about VF, do you need anything else ?
Have seen this which i think should be of help to you about pilgrim-style lodging on VF
http://www.viefrancigene.org/static/uploads/www.viefrancigene.org/elencoospitalitapellegrina.pdf
I know the friends of VF in Vercelli are a very active group of people ,will give'em a call to let them know about your walk.
Let me know of anything you might need
Giorgio

Thanks very much, Giorgio. I hope we get a chance to chat this year. I will send you my phone number.

I will travel by train from Rome to Milan on June 14 and get another train to Vercelli that same day, arriving probably mid-afternoon. I have not booked accommodation in Vercelli, but there are a couple of hotels near the station (eg il Giardinetto).

I start walking on June 15. I plan to go to Robbio on day 1, then to Mortara on day 2. Two short days at the start are good for getting into the daily routine again.

Some of the stages in Paul Chinn's guidebook are quite long for me (30+km), so I have broken them into shorter stages. That means accommodation might be an issue (I am not carrying a tent), so thanks for the weblink. I have not started to research accommodation yet. Paul's book and the CPR list are very comprehensive, but the Vercelli VF group might have more information. Thanks so much for contacting the Vercelli VF group. If I could get an email address I could contact them directly.

Regards

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I do not know if you are a fan of Alison Raju's guides - her guide to the Italian section of the Via Francigena has just been published.
Via Francigena – Pilgrim Trail Canterbury to Rome – 2: The Great St Bernard Pass to Rome, by Alison Raju, Cicerone Press, 2014, 342 pages, multiple photos and maps, £16.95, ISBN: 978-1-85284-607-7

I used Volume 1 of Alison's guide for planning in the past, but in the field I use Paul Chinn's guides, mainly because I can get GPS coordinates for the route and it simplifies navigation. Both guides are quite complementary, but I can't justify carrying both.

BTW, I sent Alison an article for the CPR newsletter after my walk last year, but never heard back. It's not a problem but I was wondering if it had gone astray. I wrote it because she needed material for the December issue.

Regards

Bob M

 

[shubertj]

Hallo Bob, glad to hear about your plans for the VF next summer.
We live not far from Vercelli and ,depending upon what we'll be up to in the second half of june ,we might be able to meet. How do you plan to come back from Rome to Vercelli ? I remember having sent some links in the past about VF, do you need anything else ?
Have seen this which i think should be of help to you about pilgrim-style lodging on VF
http://www.viefrancigene.org/static/uploads/www.viefrancigene.org/elencoospitalitapellegrina.pdf
I know the friends of VF in Vercelli are a very active group of people ,will give'em a call to let them know about your walk.
Let me know of anything you might need
Giorgio

Giorgio,
Thanks for posting the lodging listing it will be very useful. My wife and I are planning to do VF to Rome from either Aosta or Bourg S P starting in Sept. Any suggestions on the starting point and ideas of the best way to get there. We can easily fly to Rome or Geneva from the states. input would be much appreciated.

Jack

 

[BobM]

Aosta would be the easiest start point logistically, as there are trains from Rome. Aosta is quite a nice city, with lots to see and do if you need a day or so to prepare ahead of your walk.

To get to Bourg St Pierre (BSP) from Geneva you need to get to say Lausanne first (eg by ferry across Lake Geneva - a very nice trip, BTW) and take train(s) to Orsieres. Then it is either a walk or bus to BSP. There may be buses direct to Lausanne from Geneva.

Of course, the big plus of starting at BSP is crossing the Alps - but it is a strenuous climb for a first stage, especially the final slog for a km or so up to the Pass. There is not a lot to do in BSP if bad weather delays your start. You can buy food, but very little 'walking' gear/clothes. Orsieres would be a better start point from a practical point of view if your time schedule allows it. It is a bigger town with more facilities.

Hope that helps

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

You can also get a train from Geneva airport directly to Orsieres and a bus from there to Bourg St Pierre but why not add a day to your pilgrimage and walk that section. It will be a less strenuous first day than BSP to the pass as Bob says.

 

[NicoZ]

Maybe Rome will be a bit more relaxed about holding luggage for extended periods, but I would welcome any ideas on any hotels that you think might be helpful to pilgrims in the matter.

.

http://www.casalasalle.it/index.php...8:servizi&catid=8:italiano&Itemid=124&lang=it

Too late I guess for you but maybe of interest to others. They list a baggage room. An email or phone call might be a good idea.

The rooms are not exactly posh. But quiet and include everything you might need. It's about a 30 minute walk from the Vatican. Run by I think the La Salle order. Metro isn't that far but I'm guessing most here aren't against a walk. In which case a hour or so on foot will cover most of the sights.

The included breakfast is fairly normal Italian. Don't expect hot oatmeal .

 

[BobM]

I stayed at the Hotel Terminus, Route de la Gare, in Orsieres. It is about 100m from the station and close to shops, including a food store, boulangerie, Tourist Office. The hotel is quite simple, but comfortable and very convenient to get weather information on the route ahead, food for the day etc etc.

At BSP I stayed at Hotel du Cret on the main highway passing BSP. Great rooms, restaurant and very nice staff. It also has a small shop to buy snacks and toiletries. But it is a km or so out of town, and you have to back-track next day to continue your walk. There is a short-cut across fields back to the town that the staff can point out.

The total distance from BSP to the Pass is 28.4km, with 2337m of ascent and 750m of descent. There are various hiking formulae to correct times for ascents, but I allow one hour per 300m of net ascent. So, on this stage, you would need to allow 5.29 hours extra just for the net ascent. If you walk say 4.5km/hr on normal going, that adds 6.3 hours to the day, a total of 11.6 hours actual walking. Add in say another 40 minutes for breaks.

So, it would be a long day to complete in one go. I would not recommend it unless the walker is experienced and knows their capabilities.

BTW, I crossed the Pass in late June and there was still quite a bit of snow about. The lake at the Pass was still frozen. You have to respect mountains and be vigilant about changeable weather. That's where the BSP tourist office can be very helpful. The locals know the conditions.

You can see some of my notes and photos at http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-to-vercelli-remembrance-of-times-past.19560/ and trawling through my old topics.

Hope that helps.

Bob M

 

[shubertj]

Thanks Bob,
Great info and insight I guess we have a lot to think about.
Jack

 

[BobM]

The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome http://www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk/index.html is an excellent source of information, with many useful weblinks. They also maintain a good accommodation listing, but you have to be a member to get it. Well worth the money, by the way.

There are really only two good guidebooks in English for the Via Francigena: Alison Raju's Cicerone Guide to the Via Francigena and the Lightfoot Guides to the Via Francigena by Paul Chinn & Babette Gallard. You can find details of both at http://www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk/guides-via francigena.html. There seems to be a bigger choice in Italian and German, but I have not researched it.

I bought both, but now I use Paul Chinn's guides in the field because I prefer the detailed GPS data for navigation and also being able to download a GPX file for my Garmin GPS unit. Also, I email Paul Chinn my own recorded tracks to help him see how users fare using his guidebook. Parts of the VF are in a state of flux with signage changes, route changes, road works, so it must be quite a challenge keeping guidebooks up to date, not to mention the cost.

But many walkers don't like becoming a prisoner of a GPS unit and simply following its instructions. You can certainly lose sight of the bigger picture and I have found it frustrating at times. You are certainly more in tune with your surroundings if you choose to navigate the traditional way. It's a matter of personal preference.

Bob M

 

[giorgio]

Hallo Bob, as i told you the folks from Vercelli will be on walk just the Week end you plan to be there. Too bad, but they can book the Hostel in the outskirts of Vercelli ,right on the VF , for the evening of the 14th. the Hostel is here:
https://maps.google.it/maps?f=q&sou...+Salamano,+139,+13100+Vercelli,+Piemonte&z=16
On saturday evening you can have dinner there if you wish, i still don't know wether i'll be able to walk with you a couple of stages, will see how things develop.
When are you flying in from down under ?
Ciao Giorgio

 

[BobM]

Hallo Bob, as i told you the folks from Vercelli will be on walk just the Week end you plan to be there. Too bad, but they can book the Hostel in the outskirts of Vercelli ,right on the VF , for the evening of the 14th. the Hostel is here:
https://maps.google.it/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=it&geocode=&q=corso salmano 139 ,vercelli&aq=&sll=45.308767,8.42445&sspn=0.035675,0.055189&vpsrc=0&t=h&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Corso Alessandro Salamano, 139, 13100 Vercelli, Piemonte&z=16
On saturday evening you can have dinner there if you wish, i still don't know wether i'll be able to walk with you a couple of stages, will see how things develop.
When are you flying in from down under ?
Ciao Giorgio

Thanks for the weblink, Giorgio. Please book me into the hostel for one night, June 14. I will also have dinner there, if it is possible. I have not booked a train from Rome yet, but I will arrive in the afternoon. One train arrives Vercelli at 17:04, but I will try to get an earlier train.

I arrive in Rome on June 12 and have one free day to make preparations, like checking that my phone SIM card will work OK!

Let's keep in touch. At the moment I plan a short day to Robbio on June 15, but since the hostel at Vercelli is on the way that stage might be too short, so I may decide to press on to Mortara the 15th. Availability of accommodation (or weather!) might decide the matter.

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

Giorgio,
Thanks for posting the lodging listing it will be very useful. My wife and I are planning to do VF to Rome from either Aosta or Bourg S P starting in Sept. Any suggestions on the starting point and ideas of the best way to get there. We can easily fly to Rome or Geneva from the states. input would be much appreciated.

Jack

Ditto Giorgio ..Thankyou for the listing I will be walking that way late September also

 

[BobM]

On the previous sections of my VF I have heard much beautiful singing, sometimes small church choirs practicing, such as near Coldred, England or group singing in the nave of the great cathedral at Reims.

Music can uplift us in our dark hours, giving us strength to carry on. Two songs will be my strength as I tread the ancient road to Rome.

We all know "Amazing Grace" so I won't give weblinks to the music. But here are a few lyrics that could serve as an anthem for all long-distance pilgrims:

Through many dangers, toils and snares
I have already come;
'Tis Grace that brought me safe thus far
and Grace will lead me home.

Then there is the spine-tinglingly beautiful Welsh hymn, "Cwm Rhondda" (Guide me, O thou great Redeemer). You can find a video with lyrics at

There is another video with Harry Secombe & the Treorchy Male Choir singing the same hymn at:

The Welsh certainly have some beautiful songs & know how to sing them.

Regards

Bob M

 

[amblanz dave]

The http://www.viefrancigene.org/static/uploads/www.viefrancigene.org/elencoospitalitapellegrina.pdf document is a must. Used it last year along with Paul & Babette's book...started in vercelli too Don't know if you've heard, the italian's really prefer you call ahead and notify them or inquire about accomodations. Personally I thought this couldn't be....after a couple of days walking we kept getting asked the same question regarding "reservations". You won't get turned away but it sure made things go a lot easier if you call ahead. Happy walking Bob!

 

[BobM]

The http://www.viefrancigene.org/static/uploads/www.viefrancigene.org/elencoospitalitapellegrina.pdf document is a must. Used it last year along with Paul & Babette's book...started in vercelli too Don't know if you've heard, the italian's really prefer you call ahead and notify them or inquire about accomodations. Personally I thought this couldn't be....after a couple of days walking we kept getting asked the same question regarding "reservations". You won't get turned away but it sure made things go a lot easier if you call ahead. Happy walking Bob!

Thanks for the kind wishes! I use the accommodation list from the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (CPR). It seems to be the most comprehensive I can find, but you need to join the CPR to get it. The AIVF also have a good list that you can buy without being a member of the AIVF.

Anyway, June 15 will soon roll around and I will be on the way to Rome from Vercelli.

Bob M

 

[giorgio]

Hallo Bob, hope your plans are proceeding. I've booked you for the night of saturday 14th on the Biliemme Albergue in Vercelli , tel 0161250167.
No dinner is served during week ends , but the kitchen is available. breakfast is available in the morning from 7.30.
Unfortunately i von't be able to walk with you as i'll be away from june 7th to 17th, too bad ...
Don't know where you plan to stop , should this be Robbio please note the only thing available are 4 places in the town hall , right in center of town... go there and the local police will open for you...we were there two weeks ago...nothing fancy but acceptable.....also in Nicorvo the only bar in the village has accomodation for pilgrim (very friendly and nice people)
Wish you all the best
Buon Cammino !!!!!
Giorgio

 

[BobM]

Hallo Bob, hope your plans are proceeding. I've booked you for the night of saturday 14th on the Biliemme Albergue in Vercelli , tel 0161250167....Don't know where you plan to stop , should this be Robbio please note the only thing available are 4 places in the town hall , right in center of town... go there and the local police will open for you...nothing fancy but acceptable.....also in Nicorvo the only bar in the village has accomodation for pilgrim (very friendly and nice people)Giorgio

Sorry to be a nuisance, Giorgio, but could you cancel my booking at Biliemme, please. I have not fully recovered from a bad chest infection and I may decide to stay an extra day in Rome before travelling to Vercelli. I will make my own booking when I am in Rome.

My present plan is to stay in Robbio, so thanks for your information. It is possible (but not likely) that I may walk further to make up for lost time.

All the best.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Only a few days till I leave Australia for Rome, then Vercelli. Still trying to shake off a chest infection - not the best way to start the long walk to Rome.

The last few days are always the worst for me. Pre-performance nerves are at their worst just before 'going onstage'. It is always the same, no matter how many of these walks I have done, no matter how well prepared.

But as soon as I set out to find that first Way Point on the long route ahead, I feel a great sense of calmness and peace that is often quite euphoric. That's the drug that keeps me coming back for more.

All the best to everyone who will also be somewhere on the Via Francigena this summer.

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

Have a safe journey Bob.

 

[BobM]

Have a safe journey Bob.

Thanks very much, William.

All the best to you for your own plans over summer.

Regards

Bob M

 

[Sheffield James]

Bob,I don't know if you will check the forum while on your travels, but somewhat belatedly let me wish you well.
I've benefited enormously from the experiences you've shared on this site, so thanks for that.

 

[BobM]

Well, I reached Rome on Saturday, July 19 (35 days from Vercelli). I will start to post my usual day by day account shortly, but here are a few preliminary comments.

There were quite a few pilgrims walking the VF, several of whom I met at the end of most days over several weeks. The sector including Tuscany was busy, especially from Lucca to Siena. Lots of " normal" walkers and cyclists on vacation using religious accommodation. That surprised me a bit, but maybe it is a tradition in Italy. But I sensed there was some tension between walkers and those providing accommodation. Maybe the 'offerta' system is being abused?

Route marking is good in general, but I really wish the official routes would not make extensive detours into the countryside in several cases. The reason is probably to avoid busy and dangerous roads. I sometimes chose the road route to shorten stages.

There are plenty of places to get food and drinks, so there is no need to carry extra food. Bars often open at 6:30 or 7:00 - great for early starters like me.

The walkers I met usually started walking by 7:00 to avoid the heat of afternoon. I tried to get on the road by 6:30.

Unfortunately, at Radicofani I met a pilgrim who had not only walked to Jerusalem but had written a book on it. Talking to him encouraged me to investigate the feasibility of walking from Rome to Bari (roughly 20 days?), then taking ship to Akko in Israel and walking to Jerusalem (roughly 15 days?). Just when I think I am done with pilgrimages, I seem to meet someone who shows me a new journey. Anyway that's for next year.

More to come.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

Well, I reached Rome on Saturday, July 19 (35 days from Vercelli). I will start to post my usual day by day account shortly, but here are a few preliminary comments.

There were quite a few pilgrims walking the VF, several of whom I met at the end of most days over several weeks. The sector including Tuscany was busy, especially from Lucca to Siena. Lots of " normal" walkers and cyclists on vacation using religious accommodation. That surprised me a bit, but maybe it is a tradition in Italy. But I sensed there was some tension between walkers and those providing accommodation. Maybe the 'offerta' system is being abused?

Route marking is good in general, but I really wish the official routes would not make extensive detours into the countryside in several cases. The reason is probably to avoid busy and dangerous roads. I sometimes chose the road route to shorten stages.

There are plenty of places to get food and drinks, so there is no need to carry extra food. Bars often open at 6:30 or 7:00 - great for early starters like me.

The walkers I met usually started walking by 7:00 to avoid the heat of afternoon. I tried to get on the road by 6:30.

Unfortunately, at Radicofani I met a pilgrim who had not only walked to Jerusalem but had written a book on it. Talking to him encouraged me to investigate the feasibility of walking from Rome to Bari (roughly 20 days?), then taking ship to Akko in Israel and walking to Jerusalem (roughly 15 days?). Just when I think I am done with pilgrimages, I seem to meet someone who shows me a new journey. Anyway that's for next year.

More to come.

Bob M

Bob M I would love to hear more about your walk. Please post more.

 

[William Marques]

Congratulations on finishing the Long Walk.

 

[BobM]

I will post a day by day account in the same style (if I can call it a style!) as previous accounts for Canterbury-Besancon, Besancon-Vercelli. Those accounts are all a bit ad hoc, not nice professional blogs. I will try to find all the relevant links so readers with a masochistic streak can follow my entire VF.

For the CPR, I will have an accommodation update. I used mainly religious places, and eventually gave up trying to book ahead and just turned up on the doorstep. My Italian was not good enough to deal with phone calls with complicated instructions. When I walked with an Italian lady it all became so much easier.

Paul Chinn's Lightfoot guide and GPX files worked well. There seem to be continuous tweakings of the official VF route, so care is needed whatever guidebook one uses. Long forest legs with many turnings and forks require special vigilance.

The Italian leg of the VF has something of the social feel of the Camino Frances.

I met some people on remarkable journeys: The priest towing a cart who was on his way home from Jerusalem, after wanderings totalling 12,000km. The Japanese girl walking from Turkey to Santiago who plans to ride a bike across Asia to Turkey next year. The English man who had walked 52km on the day I met him, having started in Canterbury on May 7. The 71 yo French woman who had started in Paris, walking in a dress, coping somehow with the many bramble-strewn paths. The German policewoman just back from a year in Afghanistan on an international training mission who had survived a suicide attack on the base.

So many people wove themselves into the fabric of my days. We share the bonds of brotherhood of those who accomplish a difficult journey. I admire them all so much and miss them terribly.

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

I will post a

Bob M

Enjoy Roma Bob, thank you for sharing and looking forward to you VF trip notes . I will be walking that way in Sept.
Walkmag

 

[BobM]

Prologue

I completed the VF in three sections over the summers of 2012, 2013 and 2014.

Here are links to the earlier sections of the VF. They include comments by readers that I welcome and sometimes used to tweak my reports to provide more interesting/useful content. The result is an interactive, cooperative endeavour that seems very appropriate to pilgrimage. So, please feel free to jump in at any stage as I write my daily reports.

"Comments on the Canterbury - Besancon Section of the VF" (http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...besancon-section-of-the-vf.15178/#post-108639)

"The Via Francigena and WW1 Battlefields" (http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/the-via-francigena-and-ww1-battlefields.15662/). This is basically a side-bar to the previous topic, but I list it because the battlefield section was particularly evocative for me.

"Besancon to Vercelli - remembrance of times past" (http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-remembrance-of-times-past.19560/#post-170515)

Moving on .....

I left surplus clothing and luggage at my B&B in Rome, avoiding the baggage dramas of earlier years. Then trains to Milan and Vercelli. Then FEET to Rome. The photo shows the Keys of St Peter, the symbol of pilgrimage to Rome, above the door where you get your Testimonium in St Peter's Square.

Despite all our preparation and confidence in our equipment, there is always some trepidation on the eve of a long journey involving hardship and some degree of the unknown.

Tomorrow, Vercelli to Robbio!!

 

[efdoucette]

You are an inspiration Bob!
Wishing you all the best.

 

[BobM]

Sunday, June 15: Vercelli to Robbio (16.4km)
I set out at 7:30 in light rain that got steadily heavier as the morning progressed. Rain is good – you can test your poncho. But it was also good to find shelter for a snack under a road overpass.

The path was flat, through irrigated rice fields, often on wide, high embankments. No navigational issues today.

I reached Robbio by noon and had lunch chatting to some very interested locals. I decided to stay in Robbio instead of continuing to Mortara, then spent an hour finding my bed for the night. It was Sunday and the Municipal Office was closed, but the local carabinieri made a few phone calls and showed me my room.

Very tired despite the short walk. I need a week on the road to adjust and become fully conditioned. Short stages for the first couple of days seem to help.

The booming bell above my room was thankfully silent during the night. But in the distance I could hear a very musical church bell with a pure, clear, almost feminine sound.

Accommodation: Municipal Office complex, no charge. Basic, but OK.
Other Costs: Food, drink €13.

 

[BobM]

Monday, June 16: Robbio to Mortara (15km)

I set out at 8:30 in cool, cloudy weather, no rain, walking among irrigated fields.

VF signage is very good today. Hardly need to navigate, just follow the signs. VF signs come in great variety. Probably the most common are small red/white stickers wrapped around poles or stuck on walls. There are also large official “street signs” that come in three varieties: For walkers, cyclists and drivers. Look for the little pilgrim icons on such signs to make sure you stay on the walking route.

Occasionally there are more individualistic signs like the one pictured. Have you ever looked at clouds and seen animals and all sorts of imaginary scenes? Well, on the photo I can see two ghostly pilgrims (highlighted), heads bowed, leaning into the wind, following the figure in front. Reminds me of that metal sculpture on a windy hill somewhere on the way to Santiago

I am settling into the daily routine and feeling more relaxed. The pilgrimage drug is starting to work its magic.

Accommodation: Hotel della Torre, €25 room only. Nice room, comfortable bed. Above a busy restaurant, but no noise at night. Great central location close to the church.
Other Costs: Food, drink €18.

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, June 17: Mortara to Bozzolo (23.9km)

I slept very well last night and was on the road at 6:30 in cool cloudy weather that turned into very light rain as I arrived at Bozzolo.

There are quite a few birds on the rice fields: herons and egrets looking for frogs and fish. I often saw ripples at the edges of irrigation channels as I passed, presumably frogs thinking I was a giant heron and making a timely escape. A couple of rabbits hopped into the bushes ahead of me, kept in control by the beautiful, sleek ferrets I saw much later in the pilgrimage. Many small, very beautiful, iridescent green beetles lay dead on the shadier paths. Why?

A few plum trees grew beside the track in one spot, but they were not quite ripe yet. Edible, but very tart. In a couple of weeks I will be able to feast.

The Santuario Madonna della Bozzolo has a large church with a lavish interior, set in tranquil surroundings. A really nice place to stop for the night. I am glad I came here instead of taking the standard route to Garlasco. There is a history of the site at http://www.madonnadellabozzola.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60%3Ahistory&catid=24%3Astoria&Itemid=4

Accommodation: Albergo Margherita, €50 including good breakfast. Very nice room, comfortable bed. WiFi. Right next to the Santuario Madonna della Bozzolo. Friendly welcome from the staff.
Other Costs: Food, drink €18.50.

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, June 18: Bozzolo to Pavia (25.6km)

I started walking at 07:45 in cool, cloudy weather that gradually gave way to a warm, sunny day.

Flat irrigated rice fields are slowly giving way to slightly hillier terrain, but the gradients are still very gentle.

Blackberries are just starting to ripen and soon will be very edible. It is easy to recognise fruits like plums and blackberries, but it would be nice to be able to identify edible plants along the paths. Much of the vegetation is very lush and I am sure it includes salad greens that would have made a very welcome addition to my en route snacks and meals. I wonder if there is a smartphone app for identifying such plants? It would be great to be able to take a photo of a plant and have an app identify it.

The last 8km or so to Pavia were very enjoyable, on forest paths next to the wide Ticino River with glimpses of the city through the trees. It is a popular area among the locals and several joggers and walkers stopped me for a chat. There is a sandy ‘beach’ close to Pavia, complete with swimmers and sunbathers.

I met a pilgrim who sometimes used CouchSurfing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CouchSurfing) as an option for finding accommodation. It seemed to work well in larger towns like Pavia. It might be a useful to bear in mind if conventional accommodation is difficult to find.

Accommodation: Hotel Aurora, €80 room only + €6 for breakfast (optional) . Nice room, comfortable bed. Excellent breakfast available from 07:00, including yoghurt, juice, cheese, meats. WiFi. Good hotel, but too expensive to recommend.
Other Costs: Food (incl large dinner), drink €27.

 

[BobM]

Thursday, June 19: Pavia to Santa Cristina (29.6km)

I hit the road at 07:30 in clear, warm weather that grew hot as the day progressed. The early morning walk out of Pavia was lovely, along the Ticino River, past the covered bridge. Later in the day it was very hot and unpleasant walking on roads among cornfields into Santa Cristina.

There were two other pilgrims staying here, an older French woman who had walked from Paris and a German girl who had started in Lausanne. We had a good pilgrim dinner in the bar opposite the church. You get a discount if you show your credencial.

There was a very vibrant, but tranquil, atmosphere in the church hall, which seems to be the town meeting place: Older men noisily playing cards, wives watchfully second-guessing them from the sidelines . . . . teenage boys and girls pretending to ignore each other.

On my walk to Rome I occasionally I have vivid flashbacks to scenes from some other pilgrimage. There must be something about my location at the time that triggers these flashbacks, but I can never really pin them down. Memory can be very fluid.

Accommodation: Parrocchia di Sta Cristina e Bissone, €-donation. Dorm beds (7), but also a separate room with 2 beds, ensuite and hot water. No hot water in common bathroom downstairs that I used. Comfortable dorm bed. Disposable sheets, pillowcases provided. Very welcoming. Vibrant community meeting place. You can buy drinks and snacks.
Other Costs: Food, drink €17.5.

 

[BobM]

Friday, June 20: Santa Cristina Orio Litta (15.9km)

Today was a short stage before catching Danilo’s ferry across the Po next morning. You need to book the day before. Danilo is reluctant to make the trip for only one pilgrim at a time (fuel for his fast boat costs money), so the three of us agreed to cross together tomorrow. I am really looking forward to the crossing as one highlight of my journey. My companions are equally excited.

Readers familiar with Greek mythology will be aware of Charon ferrying the dead across the River Styx. Danilo is not like that. Quite the opposite!

The person in charge of the accommodation at Orio Litta dropped by in the afternoon to see how we were settling in and made ferry bookings with Danilo for next day. He also showed us a good pizzeria for dinner.

Notes on the photos: (1) Many small towns in Italy have churches with surprisingly lavish interiors like this one at Santa Cristina. (2) Most wayside shrines are either religious or a memorial to a person, but occasionally you see delightful secular subjects like the one pictured.

Accommodation: Cascina San Pietro. €-donation.The accommodation is excellent. New facilities. 3 cubicles each with 3 beds; 2 upstairs bedrooms each with 2 beds ( a better choice). Large sitting/eating area. Well equipped Kitchen.
Other Costs: Food, drink €12.5.

 

[BobM]

Saturday, June 21: Orio Litta - Crossing the Po River - Piacenza (25.6km)

Today is all about Danilo and crossing the Po River. We arrived about 09:00 and Danilo arrived in his fast boat shortly after as arranged. The crossing itself takes about 20 minutes. Sometimes the actual landing spot changes depending on the river level or if any flood damage has occurred.

Then we gathered round Danilo’s great book in his garden to pore over old entries and marvel at so much dedication over so many years. He also has a chart going back to 1998 showing the numbers and nationalities of pilgrims and where they are going to. There are 2340 people recorded on the chart, with 379 crossing in 2013.

It was quite moving to be a part of Danilo’s small signing ceremony and to be a link between those who have gone before us, far back to Sigeric’s day, and those who will follow us, who knows how far into the future. I hope future pilgrims will be able to see Danilo’s great book and its dedicated entries, long after we have all passed away.

To touch a name written by hand on real paper in the distant past is to make a connection with that person and to wonder who they were, what brought them to this tranquil spot on the great river and how their lives unfolded.

Danilo plays an important part in the cultural life of the Via Francigena in my opinion. It is all very well to spend money on signage and route improvement and nice brochures, but I hope that people who help to bring the Via Francigena alive are also recognised. Pilgrimage is a human endeavour for those who undertake it, aided by quiet and humble people who ease their journey.

Accommodation: €-donation.The accommodation is excellent. You collect the keys at No 71 Via Emilia Parmense and walk 1.5km down the road to the accommodation at No 189 on the way out of Piacenza. Large sitting/eating area. Well equipped Kitchen. Laundry with washing machine. Places to eat and buy food across the street.
Ferry: €10.
Other Costs: Food, drink €32.

 

[BobM]

Sunday, June 22: Piacenza – Fiorenzuola d’Arda (21.1km)

I was on the road at 07:00 in cool weather but the day warmed up quickly.

The main route has a long section winding through fields, adding maybe 8km to the stage. I bypassed that section by walking down the main road. The road has wide, safe verges and Sunday morning traffic was light. On other stages paths are being upgraded parallel to main roads so that walkers can save distance while walking in safety. It is an excellent initiative that I hope will be extended where road conditions allow.

Some of the smaller country roads can be more dangerous than main roads because you can be hidden by bends, and drivers may be chatting on their phones, not expecting to see people walking on the road. That has happened to me a few times on the Via Francigena. So, when facing oncoming traffic I try to see if the driver has a phone glued to his (or her) ear!

I had to ford two streams today, but the water level was low and a ferryman was not required.

Accommodation: Parrocchia di San Fiorenzo. €5 donation requested. The room (4 bunk beds) was uncomfortably small for even 3 people. About ¼ of the room was used for storage. Large common area. I moved my mattress downstairs and slept on the floor in the common area. Kitchen, but locked and a sign said not to use it.
Other Costs: Food, drink €15.6.

 

[walkmag]

Sunday, June 22: Piacenza – Fiorenzuola d’Arda (21.1km)

I was on the road at 07:00 in cool weather but the day warmed up quickly.

The main route has a long section winding through fields, adding maybe 8km to the stage. I bypassed that section by walking down the main road. The road has wide, safe verges and Sunday morning traffic was light. On other stages paths are being upgraded parallel to main roads so that walkers can save distance while walking in safety. It is an excellent initiative that I hope will be extended where road conditions allow.

Some of the smaller country roads can be more dangerous than main roads because you can be hidden by bends, and drivers may be chatting on their phones, not expecting to see people walking on the road. That has happened to me a few times on the Via Francigena. So, when facing oncoming traffic I try to see if the driver has a phone glued to his (or her) ear!

I had to ford two streams today, but the water level was low and a ferryman was not required.

Accommodation: Parrocchia di San Fiorenzo. €5 donation requested. The room (4 bunk beds) was uncomfortably small for even 3 people. About ¼ of the room was used for storage. Large common area. I moved my mattress downstairs and slept on the floor in the common area. Kitchen, but locked and a sign said not to use it.
Other Costs: Food, drink €15.6.

loving your trip notes Bob , and the information is going to be very useful. thankyou

 

[BobM]

loving your trip notes Bob , and the information is going to be very useful. thankyou

I am trying to balance useful information about the route, accommodation and costs with my own impressions of stuff that interested me along the way. Navigation has been easy so far, but later on there are problem spots that I will mention.

But if anyone wants to see more (or less) of anything, just let me know.

Bob M

 

[petro]

Love the notes and information, saving them for my future trip - still a dream but it does not hurt to start planning early, does it?

 

[BobM]

Love the notes and information, saving them for my future trip - still a dream but it does not hurt to start planning early, does it?

Planning is good.

I prepare a spreadsheet with all my stages, distances, costs, walking times adjusted for ascents, where there are train stations if I need to bail out of the walk.

It's so ridiculously obsessive I don't know why I am confessing it here. I don't colour code it, that would be over the top, but I did meet a pilgrim who also had a complex spreadsheet that was colour coded.

Of course, the whole thing becomes a work of fiction the moment I put a foot on the ground and have to improvise.

Bob M

 

[petro]

Haha Bob M! That sounds so familiar!

 

[efdoucette]

Keep them coming Bob, love your daily summaries, they are just right. I am looking forward to your entries from Sarzana on, that's where we pick up the trail end of Sept. But no pressure

 

[BobM]

Keep them coming Bob, love your daily summaries, they are just right. I am looking forward to your entries from Sarzana on, that's where we pick up the trail end of Sept. But no pressure

Sarzana is still a week or so away. I still have about 27 days to go, so at the rate of 1 update/day I should be done by the end of August.
The climb from Aulla to Sarzana is not easy, much of it is on steep, overgrown forest paths. One of the more challenging climbs on the Italian leg of the VF. Another is the last 8 km up to Radicofani on a hot main road.

Enjoy

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Monday, June 23: Fiorenzuola d’Arda - Fidenza (21.4km)

Rice fields have given way to lucerne, corn and other crops. Hay is being cut and raked into long lines to dry in the warm, sunny weather. I saw one giant machine slowly munching its way down a line of raked hay. Hay disappeared into the front end and emerged at the rear as big, plastic-wrapped cylinders that regularly plopped onto the ground as the monster advanced.

I had a break at the wonderful Abbey of Chiaravalle della Columba, founded after a visit by S Bernard of Clairvaux to Piacenza 1135. Clairvaux is on the Via Francigena and many pilgrims will have stayed there when they walked across France.

This weblink gives more information on the Abbey. http://www.paradoxplace.com/Perspectives/Venice%20&%20N%20Italy/Chiaravalle%20della%20Colomba/Chiaravalle_della_Colomba.htm

It is a quiet, beautiful spot, with a hotel on the site that would make a restful stop if you could arrange your walking stages to suit. There is a café just outside the Abbey, so you won’t starve.

The whole length of the nave was laid with a flower tapestry very much like the example shown on the website. It is breathtaking. The cloister has “knotted” corner columns (see website). Was the master mason just showing off his skills, or is it some Cistercian symbolism?

Accommodation: Convento di San Francesco, Fidenza. €-donation. Many rooms, all single on my floor. Very tranquil surroundings, but some distance out of town (as are all the San Francesco convents I stayed at). There is a café next door with WiFi and very friendly staff. Lots of young people coming and going, boys playing soccer across the street to impress the girls. I really liked this place. Restful, rejuvenating – as good as taking a day off from walking!
Other Costs: Food, drink €12.5.

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, June 24: Fidenza - Medesano (23km, total ascent 526m, total descent 459m)

Today was the first day of climbing since leaving the rice fields, with quite a long uphill slog shortly after leaving Fidenza and again after Costamezzana. The country is getting hillier as we approach the Cisa Pass which marks the division between the Ligurian and Tuscan Apennines.

I found a tree with ripe plums, small but sweet and juicy. I could have a balanced diet if only I knew which of the luxuriant roadside weeds I could safely eat with my prosciutto and formaggio.

I had a very relaxing stop for a late breakfast at Trattororia Lo Scoiattolo at Costamezzana: The pilgrim-friendly owner has a big visitor’s book to sign. Look for number 256. Classical music was playing, a Vivaldi violin concerto! Wonderful cake (two big wedges were hardly enough). Closed Mondays.

No one answered the phone when I tried to book church accommodation at Medesano. I went to the church a couple of times after I arrived, but no one was there and the accommodation was locked. So I opted for a hotel recommended by a local in the café where I had lunch.

I felt very tired and a little down after arriving today. Sitting alone in an empty hotel did not help. The streets were baking hot and empty. A few minor aches and pains developed on the climbs today.

Tomorrow I face the first long slog up to the Cisa Pass. Italy is all downhill if you see it on a map, the way a human leg points down. How can there be climbs and passes??

Accommodation: La Braceria Hotel Ristorante, Piazza Italia, Medesano. €30. WiFi available but not working. Comfortable room. No noise from restaurant.
Other Costs: Food, drink €19.

 

[walkmag]

Sarzana is still a week or so away. I still have about 27 days to go, so at the rate of 1 update/day I should be done by the end of August.
The climb from Aulla to Sarzana is not easy, much of it is on steep, overgrown forest paths. One of the more challenging climbs on the Italian leg of the VF. Another is the last 8 km up to Radicofani on a hot main road.

Enjoy

Bob M

Hi Bob
I agree Aulla to Sarzana is molto rugged..I was on that section last year, This question is resonably subject but.... in comparison is Orsieres to GSB any more difficult , the same or hopefully less challenging ?

I have decided to skip the 20km from Martigny to Orsieres

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob
I agree Aulla to Sarzana is molto rugged..I was on that section last year,... in comparison is Orsieres to GSB any more difficult , the same or hopefully less challenging ?

Aulla - Sarzana is steep in many places, as you know. Also narrow, rocky paths with lots of brambles in places. But it is the gradient and having to do some scrambly walking over rocks that really takes it out of you on that climb.

Orsieres to GSB is on good paths/roads and that makes a big difference. Although the ascent is greater and at higher altitude, the gradients are generally OK although steepish in places. It is just a relentless all day effort. I chose not to do it all in one go, but stopped at Bourg St Pierre. You are taking on quite a challenge doing it all in one day, but it depends on your pack load, age, experience and especially the weather. This year I met a young woman who did it all in one day with two friends, but they found it tough. But they did it and I guess that is the only thing that matters.

It's hard to rank the two in terms of difficulty. The difficulties are so different on both routes.

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

Aulla - Sarzana is steep in many places, as you know. Also narrow, rocky paths with lots of brambles in places. But it is the gradient and having to do some scrambly walking over rocks that really takes it out of you on that climb.

Orsieres to GSB is on good paths/roads and that makes a big difference. Although the ascent is greater and at higher altitude, the gradients are generally OK although steepish in places. It is just a relentless all day effort. I chose not to do it all in one go, but stopped at Bourg St Pierre. You are taking on quite a challenge doing it all in one day, but it depends on your pack load, age, experience and especially the weather. This year I met a young woman who did it all in one day with two friends, but they found it tough. But they did it and I guess that is the only thing that matters.

It's hard to rank the two in terms of difficulty. The difficulties are so different on both routes.

Bob M

Hi am planning to do it over 2 days
Orsieres to Bourg st Pierre
then Bourg st Prre to GSB ( hopefully )

1 month to go

then Bourg st Pierre to GSB

 

[BobM]

Hi am planning to do it over 2 days
Orsieres to Bourg st Pierre then Bourg st Prre to GSB

I am sure it will go well. If you dig around in
"Besancon to Vercelli - remembrance of times past" (http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-remembrance-of-times-past.19560/#post-170515)
you should find my account of the day, including a link to a Picassa/Google photo album if you want to see some photos.

Anyway, spending a night at the Hospice after you get to the GSB is one of the significant experiences of the VF.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, June 25: Medesano - Cassio (29.5km, total ascent 1085m, total descent 516m)

There was a stiff climb out of Medesano followed by a couple of brutal descents. After Fornovo di Taro it was a steady climb most of the way to Cassio.
The day was cool and became overcast, with thunder later and brief periods of light rain. At higher altitudes I passed into mist and poor visibility. But the mist rose eventually to reveal beautiful mountain vistas.

Oak trees and conifers became more common as the altitude increased. I saw lots of small wildflowers along the route: pink, yellow, blue, with an occasional fragrant smell wafted on the air.

Years ago on my way to Santiago I met a German pilgrim gazing wistfully at some small blue flowers by the roadside. He explained the significance to him of die Blaue Blume. I can’t remember his explanation exactly, but Wikipedia captures the essence of it: ‘in German literaturedie Blaue Blume can be a central symbol of inspiration, standing for desire, love, and the metaphysical striving for the infinite and unreachable. It symbolizes hope and the beauty of things’.

The flowers are not edible, alas. More plum trees! Also figs, but small and quite unripe. Vines are starting to appear, with roses planted at the ends of the rows. The grapes are still very tiny. A small deer (edible) bounded away from me into the trees. It knew I was not St Francis.

Today was wonderfully exhilarating and I felt strong and refreshed by the mountains. My spirits rose even further when I reached the Ostello at Cassio and a warm welcome - and another familiar pilgrim.

Accommodation: Ostello di Cassio. €16. Small, but very comfortable room. Kitchen. Very nice garden. Friendly welcome. The owner also owns the Ostello della Cisa and will book you in if you plan to stay there next day. Café and restaurant with WiFi across the road. Excellent meals. Cassio is a really nice, quiet place for a stop.
Other Costs: Food, drink €25.

 

[BobM]

Thursday, June 26: Cassio – Ostello della Cisa (16.4km, total ascent 721m, total descent 142m, max elevation 1111m)

The walk to Berceto was very beautiful, the nicest so far, on undulating paths through fields with scenic vistas across valleys to the mountains. Mountains! Yes! There are picturesque stone villages with narrow streets and bright flowers.

Poncho-strength rain started just before Berceto. I stopped for a welcome coffee with another pilgrim, but the rain did not ease up and I pressed on to the Ostello della Cisa.

The route after Berceto was relentlessly uphill for most of the day, sometimes on rough, stony paths.

The ostello was empty and locked when I arrived in cold, light rain – Scottish mist. 4 pm came and went. What if no one came to let me in? I found a shed for storing firewood and resolved to sleep there if necessary. The hospitalera arrived in the midst of these gloomy thoughts and all was well.

Accommodation: Ostello della Cisa. €16. Large, comfortable room. Large eating/reading area with books and maps. Friendly welcome. The hospitalera will cook you a dinner (€13) and provide breakfast (€3) if you ask. Dinner was excellent – a full Italian meal. There is only the ostello here, no bar or shops. Open at 4 pm, unless you arrange a different time when booking. There are contact phone numbers on the door, but I had no mobile phone reception to advise of my early arrival. So don’t assume you can just turn up and make a phone call. Very quiet, tranquil setting. Recommended.
Other Costs: Food, drink €21.

 

[BobM]

Friday, June 27: Ostello della Cisa - Pontremoli (22.7km, total ascent 169m, total descent 902m)

I decided to take the alternate route today to avoid having to retrace my steps and slog uphill to rejoin the main VF route. The only disadvantage of staying at Ostello della Cisa is that it is not on the main VF route and you have to descend quite a bit to the main road.

I crossed the “official” Ciso Pass on the main road before the souvenir shop had opened. You can get a pilgrim stamp there. There is also a substantial church at the pass that you can just see in the photo collage (far right, up the long steps beside the closed souvenir shop).

The walk today was mostly on quiet minor roads with picturesque views. There were long descents. It was another very enjoyable walk with a quiet, comfortable room at the end of the day.

Accommodation: Convento Cappuccini. €-donation. Separate rooms. Just across the river from the town on the VF route for next day. Very comfortable.
Other Costs: Food, drink €20.

 

[BobM]

Saturday, June 28: Pontremoli - Aulla (27.3km)

I took the alternate (VF cycle route) from Villafranca to Aulla to save some distance. The main route takes another meandering wander through fields to avoid busy roads, but adding at least 4km to the stage.

One of today’s photos shows the safety problems walkers face on many main roads and is probably why the official VF route often avoids them. There is no verge and dense vegetation comes right up to the tarmac. Walkers have no choice but to walk on the tarmac. And in this case a crash barrier (slightly dented from a previous collision!) prevents a walker from even pushing into the vegetation to avoid oncoming vehicles. It would take just one distracted driver blabbing or texting on his phone to wipe you out in poor visibility.

The Abbey was quite full when I arrived. There was a large group of US school students walking some of the highlights of the VF. A teacher was in charge of the group and they also had a Italian guide or ‘tour director’ to navigate and handle all the administrative details. All the students had to do was walk, but they must have had a tough time because the bathrooms were littered with bandaids, compeed, plastic skin etc!

I liked the accommodation. Pilgrims are greeted in a friendly, efficient way and it is very business-like. I was told that I could get an excellent pilgrim dinner in a restaurant just across the bridge.

Aulla, the Abbey and its museum are quite interesting. If time is not pressing Aulla would make a good rest stop. The website http://www.sancaprasio.it/ENG/ has a very good description of the Abbey and its religious and historical significance. Wikipedia also has a short article on Aulla at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aulla

Accommodation: Abbazia di San Caprasio. €-donation. Very central in the town. Friendly welcome, with coffee. Seems to be very professionally run. Computer with WiFi. At least 3 dorm rooms with bunks. Kitchen. Large room for eating, reading etc. Very comfortable.
Other Costs: Food, drink €22 (included extra food for tomorrow).

 

[BobM]

Sunday, June 29: Aulla - Sarzana (16.4km, total ascent 636m, total descent 656m)

There was a brutal climb out of Aulla on narrow, steep, rocky paths often overgrown with thorny brambles. Brambles can hurt. Occasionally brambles hang over paths at face level or higher, which is not pleasant if the thorns snag you. A few times on the VF I have had my hat snatched off by overhanging brambles.

The day began cool with misty tendrils of foggy cloud draping the hills and valleys Compact hilltop villages poked above the cloud, houses huddling together to ward off the chill.

After about an hour of climbing there is a rest area with sheltered seats and a table. Then there is a short, steep descent on uncomfortable paths to Old Vechietto, followed by another rugged ascent. But it was all over in several hours – apart from the final long, steep descent into Sarzana.
The stage was short and well way-marked, but the gradients and rocks made it difficult in places. The photos give some idea of the path, but don’t capture its steepness.

A friendly dog appeared out of nowhere in the forest and followed me silently and companionably for quite a while, then wandered off into the trees. It got me thinking. Wolves are making a tentative comeback in Europe and in Italy there are estimated to be 600 – 800 wolves (Ref: New Scientist). That’s something to think about as you pitch your tent in the forest for the night. But I suppose they were a more real threat in Sigeric’s time.

The climate and vegetation were also quite different in the 10th century. Extensive forests were cleared for farms and to provide charcoal and wood to fuel the beginnings of industrialisation. A few remnants do remain. In France I passed a protected remnant of ancient forest. Today, when you walk through a forest along the VF, all the trees are young = decades old at most. All the large, ancient trees have been cut down.

Nature Notes! - Quite a variety of crops: olives, grapes, peaches, lemons. Chestnut trees in the forest. Cicadas singing as the day warmed up.
I stayed the night in the B&B La Locanda dei Limone to avoid having to compete with the big student group for a bed. Very tranquil, with a central courtyard planted with lemons, peaches, grapes and small tart kumquats (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumquat)

Accommodation: La Locanda dei Limone, next to the train station. €40 including breakfast. Very friendly welcome. Closed when I arrived on Sunday afternoon, but there is a phone number to call. WiFi in the common area. Comfortable room and bed. The rooms are built round a grassy courtyard, planted with fruit trees. There is a wide veranda with table and chairs outside the rooms for relaxing, eating etc.
Other Costs: Food, drink €9.

 

[BobM]

Monday, June 30: Sarzana - Massa (31.8km)

I walked with two other pilgrims, occasional companions from previous days, until our ways parted. They took the main route to Massa through the hills and vineyards and I took the alternate route by the sea. It added about 4 km to the stage but I yearned to see the ocean and to have a symbolic foot washing in its waters.

It was a disappointment. It was not like the wonderful walk along the shore of Lake Geneva that I had hoped for. Most of the route to Marina di Massa is along a cycle path next to the main road some distance from the beach and you get only occasional glimpses of the ocean. There was no convenient way to walk down to the beach to dip a toe in the water. Then there is a long uphill walk along shady streets to Massa itself.

White scars on the mountains looked like snow from a distance, but they are marble quarries. A road sign points to Carrara, a very famous quarry that has been worked since Roman times. The famous statue of David was sculpted from a block of Carrara marble. Many of the street gutters in the Massa area are edged in marble – the opposite end of the aesthetic scale.

The serried ranks of mountains, with their soft shades of grey in early morning light, are behind me now. The route turns inland, away from the mountains and the whispering sea.

Rome seems so far away.

Accommodation: Convento Cappuccini. €-donation. Call ahead to make a booking. 2 rooms, one with two beds, the other with mattresses on the floor for extra pilgrims (on request). Beautiful location overlooking the town, but no food or shops in the vicinity. You have to walk down the hill to the town to eat and it is quite a climb back to the Convento.
Other Costs: Food, drink €19.

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, July 1: Massa - Camaiore (28.1km)

After a stiff climb out of Massa the walk was very enjoyable, on quiet roads, through vineyards, with occasional glimpses of the ocean. But it was not as spectacular as some of the vineyard walks overlooking Lake Geneva earlier on the VF. That walk will always stay with me.

My companions and I struck the mother lode of plum trees! Branches drooping with the weight of sweet, juicy, perfectly ripe plums. The low-hanging fruit were soon devoured, and a walking pole was usefully employed on the higher branches. Ripe plums are the fruit they eat in heaven.

The streets of Pietrasanta are full of attention-grabbing art works. According to one website “Staying in Pietrasanta is an interesting experience, where you may run into Colombian artist and sculptor Fernando Botero, who has made Pietrasanta his home for part of the year; one of his bronze sculptures graces the entrance to the town. Quirky restaurants, unusual shops, and art galleries abound, so there is always something to do”. (Ref: http://blog.italian-connection.com/walking-hiking-tours-italy/culture-sculpture-pietrasanta)

Pietrasanta grew to importance during the 15th century, mainly due to its connection with marble. Michelangelo was the first sculptor to recognize the beauty of the local stone. The VF passes several factories processing large blocks of marble.

The plan is to have a rest day in Lucca tomorrow, so I have booked a hotel.

Ristorante l’Angolo del Gusti, Piazza XXIX Maggio, Camaiore makes fantastic (gourmet!) panini. The staff are great – friendly, helpful. Another pilgrim and I had dinner there and it was a wonderfully restorative meal. Highly recommended.

Accommodation: Oratorio il Colosseo. €-donation. Conveniently located just outside the centre of town, with numerous cafes and shops. Plenty of beds. I slept on a folding bed in one of the large common rooms.
Other Costs: Food, drink €12.

 

[michryan]

Tuesday, July 1: Massa - Camaiore (28.1km)

After a stiff climb out of Massa the walk was very enjoyable, on quiet roads, through vineyards, with occasional glimpses of the ocean. But it was not as spectacular as some of the vineyard walks overlooking Lake Geneva earlier on the VF. That walk will always stay with me.

My companions and I struck the mother lode of plum trees! Branches drooping with the weight of sweet, juicy, perfectly ripe plums. The low-hanging fruit were soon devoured, and a walking pole was usefully employed on the higher branches. Ripe plums are the fruit they eat in heaven.

The streets of Pietrasanta are full of attention-grabbing art works. According to one website “Staying in Pietrasanta is an interesting experience, where you may run into Colombian artist and sculptor Fernando Botero, who has made Pietrasanta his home for part of the year; one of his bronze sculptures graces the entrance to the town. Quirky restaurants, unusual shops, and art galleries abound, so there is always something to do”. (Ref: http://blog.italian-connection.com/walking-hiking-tours-italy/culture-sculpture-pietrasanta)

Pietrasanta grew to importance during the 15th century, mainly due to its connection with marble. Michelangelo was the first sculptor to recognize the beauty of the local stone. The VF passes several factories processing large blocks of marble.

The plan is to have a rest day in Lucca tomorrow, so I have booked a hotel.

Ristorante l’Angolo del Gusti, Piazza XXIX Maggio, Camaiore makes fantastic (gourmet!) panini. The staff are great – friendly, helpful. Another pilgrim and I had dinner there and it was a wonderfully restorative meal. Highly recommended.

Accommodation: Oratorio il Colosseo. €-donation. Conveniently located just outside the centre of town, with numerous cafes and shops. Plenty of beds. I slept on a folding bed in one of the large common rooms.
Other Costs: Food, drink €12.

Really enjoying reading this BobM please keep it up. Let us know about your hotel in Lucca as this is one of the rest day places my hubby and I will be stopping at and a hotel will be a welcome luxury by then.
Michelle

 

[BobM]

Really enjoying reading this BobM. . . . . . Let us know about your hotel in Lucca

Here is an extract on the hotel from my next post. I have also attached two rather blurry photos that will give you an idea of the hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel Da Elisa. Located right on the VF on the way out of town, not far from the East wall. Plenty of cafes and shops close by, but perhaps slightly inconvenient for sightseeing. Comfortable room and bed. Shared bathrooms. Kitchen. Reception open from 15:00. €56.5 room only.

I decided to skip the rest day, so I had only one night in the hotel. I have been to Lucca before, so it was not as if I was ignoring one of Italy's gems. Being a gem is one of the problems in summer - everyone wants to visit. Crowds of tourists don't appeal to me on my pilgrimage walks.

If I was planning to stay only one night, I would probably have opted for the Convento dei Frati Cappuccini (outside the walls and across the river, but it is very inconvenient for sightseeing).

For a rest day, go for a hotel inside the wall, but they also tend to be the most expensive.

Anyway, I hope this is helpful.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

Here is an extract on the hotel from my next post. I have also attached two rather blurry photos that will give you an idea of the hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel Da Elisa. Located right on the VF on the way out of town, not far from the East wall. Plenty of cafes and shops close by, but perhaps slightly inconvenient for sightseeing. Comfortable room and bed. Shared bathrooms. Kitchen. Reception open from 15:00. €56.5 room only.

I decided to skip the rest day, so I had only one night in the hotel. I have been to Lucca before, so it was not as if I was ignoring one of Italy's gems. Being a gem is one of the problems in summer - everyone wants to visit. Crowds of tourists don't appeal to me on my pilgrimage walks.

If I was planning to stay only one night, I would probably have opted for the Convento dei Frati Cappuccini (outside the walls and across the river, but it is very inconvenient for sightseeing).

For a rest day, go for a hotel inside the wall, but they also tend to be the most expensive.

Anyway, I hope this is helpful.

Bob M

Thanks BobM. That's great. We will want to play happy tourist for a day. Im thinking budget willing inside the wall is the place to be. Hoping May won't be too busy.

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, July 2: Camaiore - Lucca (24.9km)

More ripe plums for foragers! Of course you can get the most wonderful fruit in shops without foraging in the wild. All so fresh and ready to eat – not like the rocky stone fruit inflicted on shoppers in my supermarket at home. It is not just in Italy; I also found exceptionally good fruit in France.

There are flat Saturn peaches that we don’t get at home. See Wikipedia for a photo. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturn_Peach. I have sat in the street and eaten three of them immediately after purchase, juice dripping down my fingers.

The walk was generally quite easy today. There was a very nice section of a few km along the river before entering Lucca that was very enjoyable with shade and seats. The last stretch into Lucca after that was on very hot streets. I had an excellent lunch - in fact, two back-to-back lunches - at the main piazza in front of the big church, among throngs of tourists.

The city and its well-preserved wall is wonderful and I am sure you could easily spend a second day here seeing all it has to offer. But crowds of tourists really put me off.

The hotel was Ok, but nothing special to keep me there, so I decided to skip the rest day tomorrow and continue to Altopascio.
Very tired and worn out. I walked alone today and my companions have scattered the winds (or at least to the parish accommodation).

Accommodation: Hotel Da Elisa. Located right on the VF on the way out of town, not far from the East wall. Plenty of cafes and shops close by, but perhaps slightly inconvenient for sightseeing. Comfortable room and bed. Shared bathrooms. Kitchen. Reception open from 15:00. €56.5 room only.
Other Costs: Food, drink €30.

 

[BobM]

Thursday, July 3: Lucca - Altopascio (19km)

I did not wake fully refreshed and the pack felt like a lead weight dragging me down. I became a little unwell as the day progressed and each slow step was something of a struggle.

The route was often along roads and was quite unpleasant at times. Heat rising from tarmac on hot days drives up through your feet and one becomes very footsore. I think it got to 35 degrees today, but probably considerably hotter on the baking road.

Some of the off-road paths have been greatly improved for pilgrims (photo) but it depends very much on the initiative of local pilgrim associations and the availability of funding. The VF is a European cultural project, so I hope those fat (euro)cats in Brussels toss a few crumbs occasionally to fund VF improvement projects.

I perked up a bit after a long rest in the Ostello and a meal in the cool of the evening. Hopefully I will recover enough overnight to continue to San Miniato tomorrow.

The famous pilgrim hospital at Altopascio was founded after Sigeric made his journey. It was run by the Knights of Tau who also founded daughter houses in other parts of Italy and Europe. The Knights chose the Greek letter tau for their symbol for various reasons, including its resemblance to the Christian Cross.

The hospital eventually fell into decline and some of the buildings became part of a large farm. Remnants of the original complex still survive, notably the dominating Romanesque bell tower (photo).

The tower houses ‘La Smarrita’ (‘the lost one’), a bell which was sounded at dusk to guide pilgrims to safety after crossing a difficult stretch of marshlands on the ancient VF. La Smarrita is still sounded every July 25 on the feast of St Jacob and a town procession evoking the past of the Knights of Tau.
Piazza Ospitalieri has other remnants of the earlier complex of buildings, including a hexagonal well (photo).

Accommodation: Ostello per Pellegrini, Piazza Ospitalieri (adjoins Piazza Garibaldi). You register and pay here (it is the Biblioteca), but the accommodation is in another building in a different part of town. Comfortable room and bed. No kitchen. Close to bars and shops. WiFi at the library when open. €10 room only.
Other Costs: Food, drink €18.

 

[BobM]

Friday, July 4: Altopascio – San Miniato (27.1km)

I set out at 6:30, a little tired, but mostly recovered. I walked on the main road on several occasions to avoid detours into the fields. The road was busy in both directions and quite dangerous in places (no verge, blind corners). It would be best avoided in poor visibility or rain.

About 6km out of Altopascio the route continues to Galleno along remnants of the ancient VF with traces of paving thought to date from medieval times. The large stones you can see in the photo may have originally been covered with smaller stones and pebbles to make the going easier. As the route fell into disuse the top covering would have washed away to expose the foundation. Cycles of wet and dry, freezing and thawing would then have created the very uneven surface that now exists.

Remnants of ancient roads, a boundary stone, a stream crossing and the old Greppi hostel make this one of the more evocative sections on the VF. There are a number of explanatory signs in Italian and English that further enhance the feeling of being connected with those long-ago days. It is quite simple and unassuming, but well done.

On arrival at the Convento San Francesco pilgrims are given a small wooden “Tau” pendant to hand around the neck. The accommodation is in separate rooms, both singles and doubles. One wall of the hall is decorated with astonishing, Picasso-esque murals (photo). I wish I knew the story behind that explosion of exuberant art.

Another pilgrim was staying here and we had a very enjoyable dinner with the Franciscan brothers after Mass: soup, pasta, salad, fish, fruit, drinks.

Staying in religious houses is a special highlight of the VF in Italy. The atmosphere is calm and reflective - and very restorative at day’s end.

Accommodation: Convento San Francesco. Single and double rooms with bathroom. Very comfortable. No kitchen. Nice courtyard garden. Meals taken with the brothers. €35 room, dinner, breakfast.
Other Costs: Food, drink €8.

 

[BobM]

Saturday, July 5: San Miniato – Gambassi Terme (21.3km)

I had the most wonderful, deep sleep and woke refreshed and ready to go after an excellent breakfast with the Brothers and my new walking companion.

The off-road paths are gradually changing to brown, dusty soil, along the ridges of rolling Tuscan hills with vineyards and olive groves, and the pencil pine trees so evocative of the region.

My companion is an Italian lady who will be walking with me to Siena. We met an elderly Italian couple, sitting in their garden in a small village, who offered us water when we stopped for a break. Having someone with me who was Italian dissolved the barriers that can separate foreign pilgrims from local people and we had a more comfortable and relaxed conversation as a result.

The most precious thing is to be able to erase barriers separating people. We are more than just stereotypes. We all share the same human longings and the same sufferings.

The parish at Gambasi (Parrochia Santi Jacopo) no longer offers pilgrim accommodation and the priest directed us to Ostello Sigerico. Ostello Sigerico is another highlight of the VF. It is in a very tranquil setting with panoramic views of the town and countryside. Sit in the garden in the golden summer light before sunset and admire the view. The ostello is part of the restored buildings, but you can still relate them to the ancient church complex (photo). The old church is very interesting and the ostello owner gave us a short tour.

Accommodation: Ostello Sigerico. Very comfortable. Nice courtyard and gardens next to the church. Friendly welcome. Excellent meals. €23 room, dinner, breakfast. Meals optional, but I don’t know the cost for a bed only. WiFi. The ostello is a little distance before the town and there is a stiff climb to the centre, where there are all the usual cafes and shops – and nice gardens to stroll in.
Other Costs: Food, drink €3.

 

[BobM]

Sunday, July 6: Gambassi Terme – San Gimignano (12.3km)

The number of walkers and cyclists has increased quite a bit now that we are in the heart of Tuscan tourist country. We met two Spanish pilgrims with guitars walking home to Santiago. A young Swiss man was walking home to Martigny after serving two years in the Vatican’s Swiss Guards. Cyclists with heavy panniers.

Today’s walk was very enjoyable. Rolling Tuscan hills, vineyards, olive groves. Beautiful Monastero di Bose. Then, the first glimpses of the towers of San Gimignano on a hilltop, hazy at first in the shimmering summer heat.

We arrived about 13:00. Lunch in the piazza - bruschetta e pomodoro and an excellent Tuscan soup, full of bread, a meal in itself. The rest of today was spent hanging out in the piazzas.

San Gimignano (Sigeric stop XIX) is another Italian jewel and you can find heaps of information by asking Professor Google.

Accommodation: Monasterio di San Girolamo. Very comfortable. Nice common sitting area. Friendly welcome. Closed 12:30 – 15:30. €25 room only.
Other Costs: Food, drink €37.

 

[michryan]

Sunday, July 6: Gambassi Terme – San Gimignano (12.3km)

The number of walkers and cyclists has increased quite a bit now that we are in the heart of Tuscan tourist country. We met two Spanish pilgrims with guitars walking home to Santiago. A young Swiss man was walking home to Martigny after serving two years in the Vatican’s Swiss Guards. Cyclists with heavy panniers.

Today’s walk was very enjoyable. Rolling Tuscan hills, vineyards, olive groves. Beautiful Monastero di Bose. Then, the first glimpses of the towers of San Gimignano on a hilltop, hazy at first in the shimmering summer heat.

We arrived about 13:00. Lunch in the piazza - bruschetta e pomodoro and an excellent Tuscan soup, full of bread, a meal in itself. The rest of today was spent hanging out in the piazzas.

San Gimignano (Sigeric stop XIX) is another Italian jewel and you can find heaps of information by asking Professor Google.

Accommodation: Monasterio di San Girolamo. Very comfortable. Nice common sitting area. Friendly welcome. Closed 12:30 – 15:30. €25 room only.
Other Costs: Food, drink €37.

Oh BobM the more I read your post the more I want May to hurry up. So very wonderful. Again like Lucca, San Gimignano was a place that I feel might be worth a lay day. Is it? Would like your opinion. Again thankyou for your posts. I look forward to reading them each day over breakfast.

 

[BobM]

Monday, July 7: San Gimignano - Monteriggione (27km)

We took the alternate route via Colle di Val d’Elsa. The village is somewhat reminiscent of San Gimignano without tourists. The lack of distractions and the quietness made it so attractive for me. Colle di Val d’Elsa is renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art. See www.collevaldelsa.net for more information.

The approach to Monteriggione along the VF is very impressive, with the castle walls and its towers dominating the hilltop and looming ever closer. It is one of the most important walled castles in the province according to the blurb at www.discovertuscany.com/monteriggioni.

The area inside the walls has become the central square with cafes, bars and shops. You can climb up and walk along part of the walls (free entrance if you show your credencial), with good views over the town and countryside.

Monteriggione is a great place to spend a night.

Accommodation: Casa per Ferie Santa Maria Assunta Ospitalita Pellegrini. Right on the main square. Very comfortable. Nice common sitting area. Kitchen.Friendly welcome. Closed 12:30 – 15:30. €29 room only.
Other Costs: Food, drink €29.

 

[BobM]

San Gimignano was a place that I feel might be worth a lay day. Is it? Would like your opinion. Again thankyou for your posts. I look forward to reading them each day over breakfast.

San Gimignano is certainly worth a day. One of the many Tuscan gems among hilltop towns. It is more compact than Lucca and in some ways is better. If you want a great place to stay, have a look at Albergo Cisterna, right on Piazza Cisterna. You can't get more central than that. I have not checked out the price. Probably expensive, alas. I stayed there many years ago on my first visit to Italy as a normal tourist.

Don't forget Colle di Val d'Elsa either (see today's post). Not necessarily as a place to stay, but interesting.

Glad you like these posts. One a day is all I can manage, so there are still about 2 weeks to go.

 

[BobM]

Here are a few more photos of Monteriggione that I took next morning in the beautiful early light.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

San Gimignano is certainly worth a day. One of the many Tuscan gems among hilltop towns. It is more compact than Lucca and in some ways is better. If you want a great place to stay, have a look at Albergo Cisterna, right on Piazza Cisterna. You can't get more central than that. I have not checked out the price. Probably expensive, alas. I stayed there many years ago on my first visit to Italy as a normal tourist.

Don't forget Colle di Val d'Elsa either (see today's post). Not necessarily as a place to stay, but interesting.

Glad you like these posts. One a day is all I can manage, so there are still about 2 weeks to go.

Thankyou. I will check out Albergo Cisterna. It might be one of those spoil stays where you treat yourself alittle. I love that you only post one a day. It makes me feel like I'm on the journey as well. It would be too much if you did it all at once.

 

[BobM]

Thankyou. I will check out Albergo Cisterna . .. . I love that you only post one a day. It makes me feel like I'm on the journey as well. It would be too much if you did it all at once.

Google either Albergo Cisterna or Hotel Cisterna and you will find their webpage.

I agree about the daily posts. It works for me too.

Each daily update is a little creative exercise in choosing a focus for the day, finding just a few pics (of the many I take) that add to the experience, trying to balance utility/philosophy/opinion.

Anyway, I am happy that it is of use.

BTW, there

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, July 8: Monteriggione - Siena (12km)

The first part of the short walk to Siena was on pleasant forest tracks and paths. Forest tracks can present navigational challenges. As the designated navigator I felt a particular responsibility to take care of my companion and not get lost. Quite a few ups and downs today, including the final uphill slog to Siena.

Of the three major tourist attractions on this section of the VF – Lucca, San Gimignano and Siena – Siena is the most spectacular in terms of its buildings and cultural heritage. Professor Google or Professor Wikipedia can give you a rundown. Siena is a special city.

We had lunch with the ‘staff’' at the Accoglienza Santa Luisa. Some were religious, but others were lay people. All very friendly, laughing and having a good time during our communal meal. There was a relaxed family atmosphere and the strong bonds between them were obvious.

We wandered about for the afternoon admiring the sights, especially the breathtaking Duomo. But everyone gravitates back to the Campo. The Campo seems too small for a horse race (the turns would be very tight) and it is on a slight slope. The Palio must be quite dangerous for horses and riders, even though the paving is covered with sand for the event.

According to one shopkeeper Sienese are always talking about the Palio: the one just finished, and when that topic has been done to death, the next Palio. “It is so boring!” she exclaimed, then confessed that she was born in a different city and only moved to Siena recently.

Tomorrow my companion of the last few days will set off for home and I will trudge on towards Rome.

To say goodbye is to die a little (“The Long Goodbye” by Raymond Chandler).

Accommodation: Accoglienza Santa Luisa, Via dei Servi. Very comfortable.Friendly welcome. Not sure of opening times. €-donation. You can have breakfast, lunch and dinner with the staff.
Other Costs: Food, drink €17.

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, July 9: Siena – Ponte d’Arbia (25.3km)

It was an easy walk today, with a big descent out of Siena then rather flat and open all the way to Ponte d’Arbia. I missed the company of my companion and felt a little down.

The accommodation (Centro Cresti) was quite good, but the town itself has little to offer. Even the usually garrulous Prof. Wikippedia has little to say about it.

The pizzeria across the road was closed for summer. The supermarket is also closed on Wednesdays. But there is a good bar that sells snacks and some basic foods for a meal.

A better choice would have been to press on another 5 km to Buonconvento, which is larger and has more facilities for an overnight stop.

There were a few mosquitoes here. In fact they are present at quite a few places along the VF, so take some repellent if you don’t like their bites.

Accommodation: Centro Cresti. Very comfortable. Book in advance. Large common area for sitting, eating etc. Kitchen. €-donation.
Other Costs: Food, drink €13.

 

[BobM]

Here is a VF sign showing two variants of the common "street sign" type. The top one with the car icon is for drivers and the bottom one has a walking icon to denote the walking route.

A third common variant has a cycle icon. I have even seen one with a horse icon.

The point being that the signs look exactly the same to a casual glance, so take care if you are navigating by the signs only and don’t want to get trodden on by a horse or run down by a cyclist.

BTW, my captions are just the file names in my computer and are often simply utilitarian (like this one) rather than being interesting.

 

[BobM]

Thursday, July 10: Ponte d’Arbia – San Quirico d’Orcia (22.8km)

There was a thunderstorm with torrential rain shortly before dawn. How wonderful it is to snuggle in a warm bed, sheltered from the raging elements, lulled by the sound of rain on the roof!

The storm soon passed and I set out after breakfast in cool weather with beautiful, soft light defining the trees and fields. Alas, the pleasant stroll soon became a muddy, slippery slog on uneven, rutted farm tracks soaked by the rain. Clods of heavy clay built up on my boots and the going was slow.

Black clouds gathered ahead of me in the afternoon, with rumbles of distant thunder, getting ever closer. No danger yet, but if there is less than 45 seconds from the lightning flash to the thunder the storm is only 15km away and you should be under cover – but not with your walking pole pointed to the sky like a personal lightning rod!

The skies opened with a torrent of rain just as I reached shelter in San Quirico. There was a brief scattering of small hail stones towards the end of the storm, bouncing on the paving in the piazza. Then the rain died away, the sky cleared, the sun appeared and it became quite cool.

How exciting it is to experience raw displays of nature from the comfort of shelter.

I met another pilgrim from a couple of days ago and we wandered about the town – it is quite pretty and interesting - and had coffee until the rooms opened at 16:30.

Accommodation: Collegiata dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta. Close to the church and main shopping area. Sign on door shows opening times. Call to book. Comfortable dorm rooms on two levels. Two small bathrooms. Small kitchen.€-donation.
Other Costs: Food, drink €41. Included €9 for a laundromat & €13 for extra food.

 

[michryan]

Ooh I do like a good storm. Not cool while walking but like you said to watch and experience it from a shelter. Thanks for putting the costs of everything it is great to see what I would be expecting.

 

[BobM]

.......... Thanks for putting the costs of everything it is great to see what I would be expecting.

My costs don't include wine, so you would need to allow for that if you enjoy wine with meals. My meals were generally quite simple, rarely the full-on Italian menu with all courses.

I hope it is useful.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

My costs don't include wine, so you would need to allow for that if you enjoy wine with meals. My meals were generally quite simple, rarely the full-on Italian menu with all courses.

I hope it is useful.

Bob M

Yeah that's ok. I am not a drinker as such. I do enjoy a coldy after a good days walk but one is about it for me. I have however been in training trying to appreciate a glass of vino as it would be nice to experience the culture as well. Not biggest of eaters and quite often when possible I always try to make my own and simple. I love the food in Italy but I can't eat big when walking. (Think it is an age thing ). Quite often I carry a vegemite tube for my lunch and buy fresh bread along the way. Did you need to prebook any of this accommodation? I always like to wing my walks as you never know what the day may bring. We had to prebook when walking across the UK. It worked just frustrating if you wish to walk more or even less.

 

[BobM]

. . . . Did you need to prebook any of this accommodation? I always like to wing my walks as you never know what the day may bring. . . .

At first I tried to book one day in advance, but eventually gave up because my Italian was not good enough to handle complicated phone conversations about opening times, where exactly to go etc. It rarely ever seemed uncomplicated.

So in the end I just turned up and figured it all out on the spot - except for a few days when I walked with an Italian lady who made all the phone calls for us both. You need to be careful if you plan a stop in a small town with only one place to stay. See my notes on my stop at Albergo della Cisa.

Hotels, commercial albergos etc are quite straightforward re language. It is only for the religious places that good Italian is a big help.

Hope that is useful.

Bob

 

[BobM]

Friday, July 11: San Quirico d’Orcia - Radicofani (34.1km, total ascent 1081m, total descent 702m)

The day started cold and clear but became hot later on. Much of the route was over bare, rolling hills, along ridges, with great views. The last 8km section before Radicofani was relentlessly uphill with a steepish gradient that was quite tiring at the end of a long, hot day. It was made easier by being on a road where you could establish a regular rhythm.

I received a wonderful welcome at the accommodation run by two members of the Confraternita di San Jacopo di Compostella. Cold drinks. Slices of fruit. There were 5 of us staying here, including my new companion from yesterday - and a friend of the hospitalero and his wife who had walked with them to Jerusalem and written a book about it.

Radicofani is very attractive, as are all the small hilltop towns in this part of Italy. It is dominated by the Castle dating from 978 AD. There is a nice park with great views over the countryside. Lots of shops and several tiny piazzas.

Before dinner we sat down on a bench in our bare feet. The hosptialera, dressed in a special costume, knelt before us and, one by one, gently washed our feet, dried them and ended with a brief kiss. The hospitalero, in a similar costume, said a short prayer with each of us joining in the Responses as our own feet were washed.

It was a memorable experience that bonded us together in a way that is difficult to describe: Two young Italian sisters, so close it seemed they could read each other’s thoughts; a German policewoman just back from the dangers of a year in Afghanistan and readjusting to an ordinary life in Europe; the Pilgrim who had walked to Jerusalem and who spoke of the emotional power of walking through the Holy Land; me, a restless seeker from Australia who finds support and inspiration in such company.

We then moved to the long dining table to enjoy a very pleasant and filling dinner in each other’s company, the hospitalero and hospitalera caring for us all. A dinner that was mentally as well as physically restorative.

As I think back over my time walking the VF, from the first day I set out from Canterbury with a blessing at the Cathedral, I have been privileged to have met and stayed with some special people – such as those here at Radicofani.

Accommodation: Casa d’Accoglienza San Jacopo de Compostela.€-donation (including dinner and breakfast). http://www.confraternitadisanjacopo.it/Hospital/SpedaleRadicofani.htm
Other Costs: Food, drink €16.

 

[Magnara]

Yeah that's ok. I am not a drinker as such. I do enjoy a coldy after a good days walk but one is about it for me. I have however been in training trying to appreciate a glass of vino as it would be nice to experience the culture as well. Not biggest of eaters and quite often when possible I always try to make my own and simple. I love the food in Italy but I can't eat big when walking. (Think it is an age thing ). Quite often I carry a vegemite tube for my lunch and buy fresh bread along the way. Did you need to prebook any of this accommodation? I always like to wing my walks as you never know what the day may bring. We had to prebook when walking across the UK. It worked just frustrating if you wish to walk more or even less.

We didn't book very much on our Via F. Mostly we just started asking at a cafe or bar when we got to a village and we decided to stop. ?We also like to wing it. There is always somewhere to stay. It helps if you can at least say enough in Italian to explain your basic need and who you are ("Pellegrini Australiani dalla Francia a aRoma a piedi" = "Australian pilgrims walking from France to Rome" worked for us, plus we learned "is there somewhere to stay here" etc and added the rest in sign language). Have fun, it's a great walk.
Maggie Ramsay
(The Italian Camino - Amazon)

 

[BobM]

Here is a pic of the VF sign for the "horse" route that I mentioned a couple of days ago.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

We didn't book very much on our Via F. Mostly we just started asking at a cafe or bar when we got to a village and we decided to stop. ?We also like to wing it. There is always somewhere to stay. It helps if you can at least say enough in Italian to explain your basic need and who you are ("Pellegrini Australiani dalla Francia a aRoma a piedi" = "Australian pilgrims walking from France to Rome" worked for us, plus we learned "is there somewhere to stay here" etc and added the rest in sign language). Have fun, it's a great walk.
Maggie Ramsay
(The Italian Camino - Amazon)

Hi Maggie I got your book! Have finished reading it yet. I am enjoying it and when finished I will pass it over to my hubby. I will remember that quote "Australian Pilgrims walking from France to Rome." Always handy to know a bit of the basic language. I'm terrible at learning languages. I have even done classes but have to say if you try and know the basics you get by and the people appreciate the effort. Thanks for the advice.

 

[BobM]

Saturday, July 12: Radicofani - Aquapendente (21.6km)

All of us were early starters and we had an excellent breakfast together before parting company for the day. We preferred to walk alone, but would meet each other again at the end of the day. The hospitalera waited at the door of the Casa and gave each of us a blessing, and a prayer for our journey.

I followed the official route to Ponte a Rigo, then diverted to the “new” official route beside the main road. It was generally on safe tracks parallel to the road, but there were stretches on the road itself. The verges were good so the road was reasonably safe. The route in my guidebook took a big detour into the fields, so I saved about 10km today.

The walking was easy. First a long descent in fog, then flat all the way to Aquapendente, finishing with a short uphill slog into the town centre.
The early part of the walk was on the old Via Cassia (http://www.lifeinitaly.com/cassia-part-i) , with long stretches of ancient cobbles still visible.

The Convento was full of American and Italian high school students on summer camp helping at an archaeological dig in the area. They had the day off and were enjoying a huge communal lunch in the garden, under shady trees and a trellis of vines when I arrived.

As I had my lunch in the kitchen several of the Americans dropped in to offer me food or any help I might need. Obviously well-nagged by parents and teachers at home to be polite to other guests while they were in Italy.

Then I sat under shady trees in the garden, writing, admiring the well-tended vegetable patch and wondering if foraging would be OK, but decided against it.

The students had finished their lunch and were having a great time tossing a ball around and teasing each other. Not a computer or smartphone to be seen! Yes, it’s true!! They were bursting with energy and the carefree innocence of youth that life will eventually beat out of them. Thankfully it won’t work in all cases. A few mavericks and adventurers will survive unbeaten to explore and discover.

Suddenly it dawned on me that in another week I would be in Rome. What a shock! I immediately dismissed the thought. “It ain’t over till it’s over” as someone wisely said.

Tomorrow I walk to Bolsena. There will be a beautiful lake! How I long to see it after the disappointment of the sea near Massa.

Accommodation: Convento Cappuccini, Casa San Lazzaro. Very nice, quiet location at the top of a stiff climb. Courtyard with a well. My 2-person room was small, with a bunk bed. Large shady garden. Large kitchen. No shops or cafes close by, so you have to walk downhill into the town.€-donation.
Other Costs: Food, drink €8.

 

[BobM]

Sunday, July 13: Aquapendente - Bolsena (21.1km)

It rained in the night, but I set out under clearing skies and cool conditions excited by the prospect of seeing Lake Bolsena.

Strange crops: A field of solar panels amid crops, buzzing in the early light as they woke up and started to track the sun. Then a field of real sunflowers quietly soaking up the goodness of soil and sun. Corn, not yet “as high as an elephant’s eye”.

Coffee at San Lorenzo, in a bustling café, people coming and going, calling out Sunday greetings, kissing each other. One of the great things about walking in Italy is being able to merge into the crowd at bars and cafes.

San Lorenzo is a very nice, busy town with a holiday atmosphere, probably because it was near the Lake and full of weekend holiday makers. One of my companions stayed here last night rather than at the Convento in Aquapendente. She said it was an excellent place for a night and I tend to agree. Aquapendente was not particularly interesting – unless you have the time and inclination to explore its cultural and historical places of interest.

Then . . . wait for it . . . my first view of the Lake, a vast expanse of silver shimmering water. One’s heart bursts with pleasure at the sight of noble lakes nestling in the embrace of soft hills.

The rest of the walk to Bolsena was on quiet roads among farms (with sheep!) and trees with tantalising glimpses of the Lake. Extremely pretty, one of the memorable walks along the VF.

This is a volcanic region. Lakes Bolsena and Vico are essentially the collapsed craters of extinct volcanos. The last major eruptions were in Roman times. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Bolsena. I passed a quarry of red volcanic gravel. The dirt paths were mostly red.

Bolsena (Sigeric VIII) itself is a very attractive town, with much to see and do. It is a place of saints and miracles that are explained in the Church of Santa Cristina on the main piazza. The Church became a place of pilgrimage. The old town and Castle overlooking the area very atmospheric with narrow stone streets, lots of bars and shops, and great views. Busy with weekend holiday makers.

The Lake shore is some distance from the town centre, perhaps a kilometre. Tree lined streets full of cafes and souvenir shops. Pebbly beaches with people having fun. There are places to stay in this area that would be great for anyone planning a rest day. It reminded me a little of the wonderful, unforgettable walk along Lake Geneva.

Accommodation: Instituto Suore Ss Sacramento €15. Centrally located on the piazza. My bed was one of two in the hall leading to a large room that had several beds. A cyclist and I chose those beds so as to leave the room to the ladies. Quite comfortable. Welcoming Sisters. Plenty of fruit shops, pizzerias, cafes etc close by.
Other Costs: Food, drink €27.

 

[Magnara]

Hi Maggie I got your book! Have finished reading it yet. I am enjoying it and when finished I will pass it over to my hubby. I will remember that quote "Australian Pilgrims walking from France to Rome." Always handy to know a bit of the basic language. I'm terrible at learning languages. I have even done classes but have to say if you try and know the basics you get by and the people appreciate the effort. Thanks for the advice.

Good luck, you're in for a treat walking that lovely camino.

 

[BobM]

Monday, July 14: Bolsena - Montefiascone (16.7km)

Much of the first part of the walk was through attractive forest with an unseen stream tinkling over rocks somewhere among the trees. Elsewhere the grapes were getting bigger in neat vineyards as summer advanced.

I arrived early at the attractive town of Montefiascone and had coffee while trying to decide my route for the next few days. One of my companions turned up and spoke so glowingly of the Monastero that I decided to stay here with her and call it a rest day. It was also raining lightly!

Montefiascone (Sigric VII) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montefiascone) has some interesting places to see, notably the Cathedral and its impressive dome. I read somewhere that the dome is the largest in Italy after St Peter’s in Rome, but I can’t find the reference.

We received a very welcoming reception at the Monastero. The Sister who looked after us was in a very jovial mood and made light-hearted comments that stretched my Italian to its limits.

We dined that night in the Monastero on soup, pasta, vegetables, potato omelette, cherries and wine if desired. Definitely one of the better meals for the last few weeks. Of course the surroundings and people add to the enjoyment of any meal – not to mention ravenous hunger.

Accommodation: Monastero di San Pietro. €25 for a single room. Very comfortable. Wonderful people. Dinner, breakfast available for €10. Meals excellent value. Kitchen. Washing machine. Very nice, spacious building with indoor plants. Small garden.
Other Costs: Food, drink €12.

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, July 15: Montefiascone – San Martino al Cimino (27.1km, total ascent 534m)

There is a choice of two quite different routes for the next few days. The official route is via Viterbo, Vetralla (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vetralla), Campranica and Sutri. Total 59km, 3 days. The stages are short but you could combine two into a long 35km stage. Essentially flat terrain.

Or you could take the main route to Viterbo as above, then the alternate route via San Martino al Cimino to Querce d’Orlando and then re-join the main route to Sutri. Total 48km, 2 days. This route has a total ascent of roughly 1000m with some steep gradients after Viterbo. It is mostly through forest, with the possibility seeing Lake Vico.

So, let’s hit the road . . . . .

There was a nice descent to Viterbo through open farmland. Some of the route includes sections of the ancient paved road.

In Medieval times gallows were sometimes erected on Mt Iugo in view of passing travellers as a warning to thieves preying on pilgrims. This custom should be revived on St Peter’s Square in Rome as a warning to street stalls selling over-priced drinks and ice cream.

Viterbo's historic centre is one of the best preserved medieval towns of central Italy. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viterbo).

Leaving Viterbo I took the alternate route to San Martino, mostly in forest and often on narrow, steep tracks. But it is well-walked and fairly clear. There are some small waymarks at junctions but not all of them are obvious. In fact a well-walked path that I took differed from my guidebook and I came to the main road about 3 km before San Martino.

There is a very helpful café (Pizzamania) just opposite the arched entry to the Abbey complex. I had a meal and asked about accommodation. The staff checked out a couple of places and showed me the way on Google Earth, even offering to drive me. It was just one example of numerous acts of kindness I have experienced on the VF.

There are several places to stay: B&B dell’Abate (no one answered either the bell or the phone), Albergo Doria (full when I arrived) but the hospitalero recommended B&B Widman.

The town itself was not particularly interesting to me, apart from the Abbey of San Martino. It is a large monastery that serves as the mother house of the Cistercian Order in Italy.

There are several places to eat, including a good restaurant close to B&B Widman. There is a supermarket.

Tomorrow, the final climb through forests to Lake Vico.

Accommodation: B&B Widman. On the main square, not far from the old Abbey. €30 for a single room including breakfast. Very comfortable, with the facilities expected in a good B&B. I don’t think there is WiFi, but I am not sure because I had no need for it. Nice, spacious building with rather an elaborate interior and furnishings.
Other Costs: Food, drink €23.

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, July 16: San Martino al Cimino - Sutri (21km, total ascent 573m)

The day was already warm when I started the long, slow climb through forests to Lake Vico. It is difficult to believe that this was once a volcano.

The VF path follows the Lake for perhaps 1km, but no closer than about 500m. I caught only occasional, tantalising glimpses of the water through the trees, shining brightly in the reflected light of early morning. There was no wind to ruffle the surface.

One or two paths branch off the VF route and seem to lead to the road circling the Lake, but I did not explore the possibility. I was advised that busy traffic makes the narrow road dangerous for walkers. Anyway, I did not have the time.

The website http://www.parchilazio.it/vico has a map and information about Lake Vico, points of interest and things to do in the Nature Reserve.

The route from Campranica to Sutri (Sigric IV) is mainly in forest, with rustic bridges crossing a small stream. There is a picnic table and seats near one bridge that would make a tranquil place for a break. Sections of the path are overgrown and not always clearly waymarked.

The Monastero Santissima Concezione in Sutri was full when a Japanese pilgrim and I tried to get a room, but they gave us a list of other places to stay and we went to the Hotel Sutrium.

The Japanese pilgrim had started in Turkey and was heading for Santiago. She has walked many pilgrimage routes, including the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, Japan's most famous pilgrimage route, a 1200 km loop around the island of Shikoku. See http://wikitravel.org/en/88_Temple_Pilgrimage.
She wants to cycle from Japan across Asia to Turkey, “to link my home to Santiago”. Why not?

People may pour cold water on her dream and tell her it is too difficult, or unsafe, or unfitting for a Japanese woman. Cold water and dreams go together. Life beats the dreams out of so many people, their yearnings unfulfilled and hidden in their hearts with all the other “might-have-beens” of their lives.
But a seed can sprout after many years lying dormant, waiting for the right conditions to burst forth into a plant that may bear a beautiful flower. Die Blaue Blume. Dreams can too – when our lives are, once more, ready for them.

So, in a quiet receptive moment, by the shores of a dreaming lake with soft water lapping on the sand, or among flowery uplands where the sky seems within our reach, when our hearts are open and we are free, let us peer deep inside ourselves. Perhaps a long-forgotten seed is stirring into life.

Three more days to go! Thanks to everyone who has stuck with me over the last month as I have relived the VF.

Accommodation: Hotel Sutrium. €40, including breakfast. But staff don’t arrive until 07:00, so if you want to leave earlier you get no breakfast unless you can persuade them to leave out a basic breakfast the night before. Close to the main square. Probably reasonable value for the double rooms, but my single room was small, dark and hot.
Other Costs: Food, drink €30.

 

[efdoucette]

I follow your daily journal Bob, thanks for sharing. It's a joy to read, can't wait to get going on Sept 25. Your pictures have surprised me, I didn't think there were so many beautiful little towns. Looks like regular coffee / drink breaks are possible.

 

[BobM]

I follow your daily journal Bob, thanks for sharing. It's a joy to read, can't wait to get going on Sept 25. Your pictures have surprised me, I didn't think there were so many beautiful little towns. Looks like regular coffee / drink breaks are possible.

The towns are so attractive, not only the famous places like Lucca, Siena, San Gimignano etc. The only problem is that the original inhabitants insisted on putting them on hilltops. Very defensible, and, of course, very pretty today, but hell for weary pilgrims trudging up to them.

I have tried to limit my pics to only 4 per day, so I have not been able to show details of many of the towns.

Italy is wonderful for bars, cafes etc. Many, if not most, open early, often at 6:30. There are only a few stages where bars are infrequent. I got caught out once or twice expecting to find a bar for breakfast en route, but not finding any.

The VF atmosphere in Italy is completely different to the rather sterile atmosphere in France and Switzerland. More like the Camino Frances spirit.

Walking in autumn will probably be different to walking in summer. The crowds of tourists will have gone. The paths in forests etc will be well-walked, making navigation easier.

Anyway, if you have any specific questions, I am only a few mouse clicks away.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Thursday, July 17: Sutri – Compagnano di Roma (26km)

The route passes an Etruscan necropolis on the outskirts of Sutri. You can see numerous tombs cut into the rock. I vaguely remember there are signs explaining it all.

I took the alternate road route that cuts out a 4km detour into the fields. The day was very hot and I longed for cool drinks, but Monterosi was the only town with bars.

After Monterosi much of the route was without shelter until the last few km into Compagnano where it was under trees. I met a cyclist who gave me a shot of very strong coffee from his thermos flask just before the steep climb up to the town.

I had a snack in an excellent café on the square in Compagnano and decided to find a place to stay. I composed an enquiry in my mind and turned to the man at the next table.

“Mi scusi. Dove si trova l'Oratorio San Giovanni per favore? “

“Pardon? I am American. On vacation,” he replied.

An efficient young Italian woman nearby overheard the exchange and immediately took charge, firing up Google Maps on her laptop. A couple of young men from other tables joined in, rather unnecessarily I thought, (but she was very pretty) and I was soon on my way, instructions ringing in my ears.

The accommodation was very basic and in need of sweeping (which I did), but it was okay for one night. The photo will give you a general idea.
Pillowcases were provided, but that was not always so in other places. Here’s a tip: Take a pillowcase with you to block out the sour smell of stale sweat from all those thousands of heads that have slept on the pillow before you. The pillowcase can also double as a bag to wrap changes of clothes in.

A cool change arrived late in the afternoon bringing cloud and distant thunder, an invigorating end to a hot day.

A filling pilgrim dinner at the bar with two other pilgrims – pasta, steak with salad, water – made all well with the world.

Accommodation: Oratorio San Giovanni Battista. €-donation. The bar near the accommodation will call the priest if you stop at the bar for a drink when you arrive. Mattresses on the floor in several big rooms. Rather dirty, unswept rooms. Fridge. Can’t recall if there were other kitchen facilities. Few if any shops close by. There is one bar that offers pilgrim dinners and breakfast.
Other Costs: Food, drink €20. The pilgrim dinner (€10) is included.