Rajy62
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances 2013, Norte/primitivo 2014, vdlp (2015)
I did the CF last October and wanted a bit more challenge on my 2nd Camino. I was a bit hesitant based on all the reviews of Norte and primitivo. But, overall what a stunning walk. Unlike some parts of the CF, where the scenery was predictable and the trails were relatively flat, the Norte/Primitivo was entirely unpredictable with stunning views. Only predictable thing was that the ocean will be to your right and the mountains to the left.
Yes, lot fewer people. On the Norte (in June), i counted about 30 of us in one Alberque at the begining. Once split towards Primitivo, that number reduced to about 15 on any given stage. Of those, 10 of us really bonded well and would stay together for most of that walk.
Lot has been written about the difficulty of the Norte/Primitivo. I think it is a bit exaggerated. I am 50+, overweight and not in great shape. Up and down slows be down considerably. Mental preparation to climb 500-800 Meters with several ups/downs every day helped me immensely. Of course after Bilbao, the trail difficulty level reduces, but continues with the rolling-hill type until Primitivo.
The weather plays a major part in how well one enjoys this walk. I faced about 4-5 days of light rain from Irun to Bilbao and faced no rain at all for the rest of June. So the toughest part is walking through some of the muddy dirt roads and couple of steep rocky/muddy descends before Bilbao. Several people walking without proper boots were falling left and right. Some parts of the Primitivo would have been a lot tougher also had there been more rain.
After some 20 days of along the coast, i turned towards the Primitivo. Although the highest elevation gain was in Primitivo (about 900m), I found that Irun to Bilbao was tougher than the Primitivo; perhaps it was due to the weather or it was at the beginning of my walk). Nevertheless, be prepared for a daily grind of about 500-600m through the Primitivo. Most ascents/descents are on relatively good trails. Challenge posed only by one steep descent into Grandas de salime and a very steep ascent before Cadavo. Otherwise, Primitivo is a beautiful walk.
In terms of accommodation, compared to the CF, i was not impressed with municipal ones, specially on the primitivo. Most of them are not administered properly. Whenever the key is to be picked up at a bar or restaurant be warned. But, some municipals cannot be avoided as there may be only one alberque at a particular stop. So, be prepared.
I booked my accommodation 1-2 day in advance, i could not have done it without some Spanish. Most alberques and hostels/hotels only spoke Spanish except in big towns.
I did the CF with one of those Michelin maps. I don't think you can do the Norte/Primitivo without a good guidebook. Mainly because most hostels/pensions you stay in are not helpful when it comes to camino or accommodation options. I relied on Dave Whitson/Laura Perazzoli guide (The Northern Caminos) for most of the walk and consulted the Spanish guide "Northern way to santiago" for the Primitivo because it provides elevation profile and better staging for the Primitivo.
Here are my stages and accommodations:
Note: All accommodation references are in Dave's guidebook, except some private ones i named.
Whenever a stage is more than 25k, notice that i shortened the walk by taking a bus/taxi.
0.Start Irun - Alberque de peregrinos (Near renfe station)
1.[26.5k], San Sebastian (Hostel La Sirena,, 15eu)
2. [18.5k], Zarautz (Hostel Igarain, 12eu)
3. [24k] Deba (Alberque de peregrinos, 5eu)
4. [23k] Markina-Xemein (Casa Intxauspe 12eu)
5. [25k] Gernika (Hostel Gernika, 18eu)
6. [35.5k], Bilbao, walked to Lezama and took the bus into Bilbao (Hostel Akalarre, 16eu)
7. [22k] Pobena, mostly boring road walk, took the train
8. [17.5k] Castro Urdales (Alb Municipal, 5eu, 3km from town, avoid it if you want town action)
9. [30.1k] Laredo, walked to Liendo 24k and then bus to Laredo(casa trinidad, 10eu, private, run by the nuns)
10.[30.6k]Guemes (bus to Santona & walk 25.xk to Guemes (motel style alb Guemes, donativo)
11.[17.1k]Santander (hostel b&b&b, 15eu, Dinner at La Barboletta)
12.[33k]Santilla del mar, bus out of Santander and then walked 25k (pension Posada Revolgo, 20eu)
13.[27.5k]San vicente, walked to camillas 23k, bus to san vicente(Alb basic, 10eu)
14.[26.5k]Perubeles (Alb aves de paso, Donativo, private, communal meals)
15.[19k]Playa de poo (Private alberque, food not the best)
16.[20k]Cuerres, 6km before Ribadesella (Private alb run by a German couple, excellent)
17.[6k]Ribadasella, my break day (hostel Juvenile,on the beach, 15eu)
18.[20.5k]Colunga (Confeteria las palmeras, 20eu)
19.[14k]Villaviciosa, 3km before town centre (La llarmarga, private house, donativo, bf/dinner)
20.[20.3k]Le vega (alb municipal, 5eu)
21.[27k] Oviedo ,bus from colloto(Alb Villa ceceila, private room 20eu, don't eat here)
22.[29.5]Grado , bus to san lazaro(Hotel autobar, 15 eu for double)
23.[24.5k]Salas (Alb la campa, 10eu, private)
24.[19k]Tineo Hotel don miguel, 10eu double)
25.[15k]Borreas,(Alb de peregrinos 5eu, key at bar tfn 663785266)
Staying at Borreas helps take the high level route early next day.
26.[24k]Berducedo , taxied the last 4k(Alb Antigua, 30eu private room)
I took the high level Hospitales route. It was not as tough as the guide describes.
No bars/cafes for break for sure, but easy and steady ascent. Some loose scree on decent.
Very hot afternoon, exhausted by Largo and took a taxi.
27.[20k]Grandas de salime (Alb Municipal, 5eu)
28.[25k]Fonsagrada (Pension monola, 30eu dbl)
29.[24k]Cadavo (Hotel Moneda 40eu dbl)
30.[30.5k]Lugo , last 7km by bus into town(Alb roots and boots, 1oeu)
31.[24.5k]Ferreira (Ponte ferreira, private 10eu)
32.[25.8k]Boente (Private alb 10eu)
33.[24.5k]Santa Irene (Alb Private 10eu)
34.[20.5]Santiago de compostelo(Hostel Mapoula, 18eu quad)
Yes, lot fewer people. On the Norte (in June), i counted about 30 of us in one Alberque at the begining. Once split towards Primitivo, that number reduced to about 15 on any given stage. Of those, 10 of us really bonded well and would stay together for most of that walk.
Lot has been written about the difficulty of the Norte/Primitivo. I think it is a bit exaggerated. I am 50+, overweight and not in great shape. Up and down slows be down considerably. Mental preparation to climb 500-800 Meters with several ups/downs every day helped me immensely. Of course after Bilbao, the trail difficulty level reduces, but continues with the rolling-hill type until Primitivo.
The weather plays a major part in how well one enjoys this walk. I faced about 4-5 days of light rain from Irun to Bilbao and faced no rain at all for the rest of June. So the toughest part is walking through some of the muddy dirt roads and couple of steep rocky/muddy descends before Bilbao. Several people walking without proper boots were falling left and right. Some parts of the Primitivo would have been a lot tougher also had there been more rain.
After some 20 days of along the coast, i turned towards the Primitivo. Although the highest elevation gain was in Primitivo (about 900m), I found that Irun to Bilbao was tougher than the Primitivo; perhaps it was due to the weather or it was at the beginning of my walk). Nevertheless, be prepared for a daily grind of about 500-600m through the Primitivo. Most ascents/descents are on relatively good trails. Challenge posed only by one steep descent into Grandas de salime and a very steep ascent before Cadavo. Otherwise, Primitivo is a beautiful walk.
In terms of accommodation, compared to the CF, i was not impressed with municipal ones, specially on the primitivo. Most of them are not administered properly. Whenever the key is to be picked up at a bar or restaurant be warned. But, some municipals cannot be avoided as there may be only one alberque at a particular stop. So, be prepared.
I booked my accommodation 1-2 day in advance, i could not have done it without some Spanish. Most alberques and hostels/hotels only spoke Spanish except in big towns.
I did the CF with one of those Michelin maps. I don't think you can do the Norte/Primitivo without a good guidebook. Mainly because most hostels/pensions you stay in are not helpful when it comes to camino or accommodation options. I relied on Dave Whitson/Laura Perazzoli guide (The Northern Caminos) for most of the walk and consulted the Spanish guide "Northern way to santiago" for the Primitivo because it provides elevation profile and better staging for the Primitivo.
Here are my stages and accommodations:
Note: All accommodation references are in Dave's guidebook, except some private ones i named.
Whenever a stage is more than 25k, notice that i shortened the walk by taking a bus/taxi.
0.Start Irun - Alberque de peregrinos (Near renfe station)
1.[26.5k], San Sebastian (Hostel La Sirena,, 15eu)
2. [18.5k], Zarautz (Hostel Igarain, 12eu)
3. [24k] Deba (Alberque de peregrinos, 5eu)
4. [23k] Markina-Xemein (Casa Intxauspe 12eu)
5. [25k] Gernika (Hostel Gernika, 18eu)
6. [35.5k], Bilbao, walked to Lezama and took the bus into Bilbao (Hostel Akalarre, 16eu)
7. [22k] Pobena, mostly boring road walk, took the train
8. [17.5k] Castro Urdales (Alb Municipal, 5eu, 3km from town, avoid it if you want town action)
9. [30.1k] Laredo, walked to Liendo 24k and then bus to Laredo(casa trinidad, 10eu, private, run by the nuns)
10.[30.6k]Guemes (bus to Santona & walk 25.xk to Guemes (motel style alb Guemes, donativo)
11.[17.1k]Santander (hostel b&b&b, 15eu, Dinner at La Barboletta)
12.[33k]Santilla del mar, bus out of Santander and then walked 25k (pension Posada Revolgo, 20eu)
13.[27.5k]San vicente, walked to camillas 23k, bus to san vicente(Alb basic, 10eu)
14.[26.5k]Perubeles (Alb aves de paso, Donativo, private, communal meals)
15.[19k]Playa de poo (Private alberque, food not the best)
16.[20k]Cuerres, 6km before Ribadesella (Private alb run by a German couple, excellent)
17.[6k]Ribadasella, my break day (hostel Juvenile,on the beach, 15eu)
18.[20.5k]Colunga (Confeteria las palmeras, 20eu)
19.[14k]Villaviciosa, 3km before town centre (La llarmarga, private house, donativo, bf/dinner)
20.[20.3k]Le vega (alb municipal, 5eu)
21.[27k] Oviedo ,bus from colloto(Alb Villa ceceila, private room 20eu, don't eat here)
22.[29.5]Grado , bus to san lazaro(Hotel autobar, 15 eu for double)
23.[24.5k]Salas (Alb la campa, 10eu, private)
24.[19k]Tineo Hotel don miguel, 10eu double)
25.[15k]Borreas,(Alb de peregrinos 5eu, key at bar tfn 663785266)
Staying at Borreas helps take the high level route early next day.
26.[24k]Berducedo , taxied the last 4k(Alb Antigua, 30eu private room)
I took the high level Hospitales route. It was not as tough as the guide describes.
No bars/cafes for break for sure, but easy and steady ascent. Some loose scree on decent.
Very hot afternoon, exhausted by Largo and took a taxi.
27.[20k]Grandas de salime (Alb Municipal, 5eu)
28.[25k]Fonsagrada (Pension monola, 30eu dbl)
29.[24k]Cadavo (Hotel Moneda 40eu dbl)
30.[30.5k]Lugo , last 7km by bus into town(Alb roots and boots, 1oeu)
31.[24.5k]Ferreira (Ponte ferreira, private 10eu)
32.[25.8k]Boente (Private alb 10eu)
33.[24.5k]Santa Irene (Alb Private 10eu)
34.[20.5]Santiago de compostelo(Hostel Mapoula, 18eu quad)
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