Meals in Roncesvalles, worth it?

camster

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
 
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Bradypus

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There are very few alternatives for dinner in Roncesvalles. I think it is worth booking dinner which is adequate and reasonably priced but nothing special. On my last two visits I've eaten in Casa Sabina. Tables for 4 which I shared with others. I chose the earlier time slot so I could be at the pilgrim mass. I didn't order breakfast or lunch as I preferred to walk to Burguete for breakfast.
 
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camster

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There are very few alternatives for dinner in Roncesvalles. I think it is worth booking dinner which is adequate and reasonably priced but nothing special. On my last two visits I've eaten in Casa Sabina. Tables for 4 which I shared with others. I chose the earlier time slot so I could be at the pilgrim mass. I didn't order breakfast or lunch as I preferred to walk to Burguete for breakfast.
So if choose the diner, it is offered at a time which doesn't interfere with mass, right?
 
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trecile

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Dinner - yes, breakfast or picnic - no.
As others have said, the dining options in Roncesvalles are limited, and while the food may not be great I enjoyed the communal nature of the dinner. I opted for the breakfast my first time there, and then had to wait to get it, and it wasn't really worth the price. On subsequent trips I preferred walking to Burguete or Espinal for breakfast.
 
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Bradypus

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Too many and too often!
So if choose the diner, it is offered at a time which doesn't interfere with mass, right?
In January there were two time slots. If the summer pattern is the same then the later one is at the same time as the pilgrim mass. Someone with recent summer experience might be able to say if the same is true then.
 

camster

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Dinner - yes, breakfast or picnic - no.
As others have said, the dining options in Roncesvalles are limited, and while the food may not be great I enjoyed the communal nature of the dinner. I opted for the breakfast my first time there, and then had to wait to get it, and it wasn't really worth the price. On subsequent trips I preferred walking to Burguete or Espinal for breakfast.
Great, thank you for the information. Waiting for breakfast is something I wish to avoid, especially if there are places close-ish to eat. I might only take the diner then.
 
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David Tallan

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I will join the chorus in saying, pre-booking dinner is probably worth it, just to ensure you have one, because there isn't much in the way of alternatives and the dining with other pilgrims was nice. Breakfast and picnic lunch probably not. Just walk on and find something in the towns and villages along the way. They are not spread so far apart to make that unreasonable.
 
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markie6

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Yes to Evening meal. People may be subjective about the food but most enjoy the chatting and getting to know the other pilgrims.

Breakfast no ... need to get going. Some need coffee and food before they set off though


link from a previous thread for mass times
 
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thejoker

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I love the evening meals in Roncesvalles. I actually look forward to the trout experience in the Posada first, as it hits me with confirmation that I am in Spain again.

I usually stay 2 nights in Roncesvalles and night 1 I eat in the Posada while night 2 I eat at Casa Sabina. Lunch is taken in the hotel restaurant.

As for breakfast, a definite skip. I walk into Burguete and back to Roncesvalles for breakfast (well, brunch) on my rest day. The morning I finally leave Roncesvalles, I usually have breakfast in Espinal.
 

shefollowsshells

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
Yes! If not for the food for bonding!
 
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Scott Fraser

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
Breakfast in Burguete (cafe just as you enter town) is very good. After the 3 km walk from Roncesvalles your ready for coffee.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Wanderingfriend

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
I’d take breakfast for sure because there is little food to Zuburi. I remember being so hungry and needing food. There are other restaurants for dinner in Roncesvalles.
 

shefollowsshells

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If breakfast is insufficient or looking to find some food for snacks and lunch, there is a supermercado before the next town, right on the path. Cannot miss it.
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My son as a toddler use to sing this and his lyrics were “ The Big Archee”.
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Wanderingfriend

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I’d take breakfast for sure because there is little food to Zuburi. I remember being so hungry and needing food. There are other restaurants for dinner in Roncesvalles.
Maybe there are other places open for breakfast can’t remember, but for me, I wish I’d had more and had snacks with me as there was little on the trail that day.
 
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Ianinam

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Dinner is possible at 7 pm or 8.30 pm. Three course meal including wine, bread and water, € 12,--.
Choice of fish, meat and vegetarian. If vegetarian, tell it immediately when you enter the restaurant.

If you want to go to the pilgrims' Mass, you'd better choose the 7 pm dinner. The Mass is at 8 pm (on weekdays, on Saturday and Sunday it is at 6 pm) and if you choose the 8.30 pm dinner, you would have to leave the church before the end of the Mass, and it is just at the end of the Mass when the pilgrims are called to come forward to the altar to receive their blessing for their Camino, always a very impressive moment.

Breakfast STARTS at 7 am; I always advise pilgrims to just take a coffee and a little snack from our vending machines (ask the hospitaleros, they are in the corridor but they are a bit hidden) and then start walking. Do not wait until the restaurants are open, especially not when it is hot during the summer when you want to start early. In half an hour you are in Burguete, where there are a supermarket and two bars where you can have a good breakfast.
Skip the pic-nic possibility you have while you make your reservation; you walk between Roncesvalles and Zubiri through several little villages with bars where you can enjoy a fresh made lunch, instead of dragging your lunch around.
 
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DeansFamily

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Ate there in early March. Dinner was disappointing compared to what we got in late 2017, and the service very lacking. We wish we'd eaten at the bar earlier instead. As it was early in the season nothing obvious was open before Zubiri. High season will have plenty of choices for breakfast and lunch.
 

motero99

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When I was there in esrly May 2019, Roncessvalles had booked every seat at every place in town. Later some people asked about dinner and were told to walk to the next town or go to the vending machines. I thought dinner was very good and the atmosphere at the small tables was great. Breakfast was convenient. The excitement around the room for the new day was a positive motivator. You will have 30+ days after that to search out your tortillas or napolitanas for breakfast and the best cafe con leche
 

Ianinam

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When you arrive late, it can be possible the dinner tickets are sold out. The albergue has 245 beds, the two restaurants each can cater for 80 pilgrims every evening (both two sessions of 40 people); and that's it. Every now and then the restaurant of the hotel can cater for another 20 pilgrims, but not always. That makes a total of 180 dinners, on 245 beds ... so buy your dinner ticket early, or book it in advance!
 
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camster

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When you arrive late, it can be possible the dinner tickets are sold out. The albergue has 245 beds, the two restaurants each can cater for 80 pilgrims every evening (both two sessions of 40 people); and that's it. Every now and then the restaurant of the hotel can cater for another 20 pilgrims, but not always. That makes a total of 180 dinners, on 245 beds ... so buy your dinner ticket early, or book it in advance!
If I reserved a bed and diner, does that automatically give me a ticket for diner?
 

Ianinam

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If I reserved a bed and diner, does that automatically give me a ticket for diner?
Yes, it does. And I read you choose the 7pm dinner, that's the best choice. Enjoy your stay at Roncesvalles! When will you be there? I was there the last two weeks and will return in July.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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So if choose the diner, it is offered at a time which doesn't interfere with mass, right?
If you choose the early dinner time slot you can make the Pilgrim Mass and blessing. After the service, the priest will give a tour of the church (talk about the building) in Spanish with someone to read the same off a card in English, and also take you down to see the crypt. When I was there he also sang down in the crypt.
 

Ianinam

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If you choose the early dinner time slot you can make the Pilgrim Mass and blessing. After the service, the priest will give a tour of the church (talk about the building) in Spanish with someone to read the same off a card in English, and also take you down to see the crypt. When I was there he also sang down in the crypt.

Yes, Don Valentin does these tours on weekdays and it is very interesting. Unfortunately not on Saturdays and Sundays.
 
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camster

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If you choose the early dinner time slot you can make the Pilgrim Mass and blessing. After the service, the priest will give a tour of the church (talk about the building) in Spanish with someone to read the same off a card in English, and also take you down to see the crypt. When I was there he also sang down in the crypt.
Wow, that's more than exciting. I didn't expect a visit after. Very fun to know, thank you!
 
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Ianinam

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The albergue has been full every day during the last weeks. So we had to send pilgrims to the more expensive hotels, or with a taxi to other places.
I read in another thread that you will start your camino this coming weekend. Be aware that this coming weekend will be the busiest period of the year, as Monday will be a holiday in France and Spain, and the first two weeks of May are always very, very busy. So try to reservate a bed and dinner in Roncesvalles (and make reservations in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, and Zubiri, and Pamplona) or walk fast and start early. If you arrive at 1 or 2 pm in Roncesvalles we will probably have a bed. Probably not a bed in the new renovated albergue, but in the sótano (basement) or Dependencia (overflow/winter-albergue). But a bed is a bed ...
Last week pilgrims had to sleep in the gymnasium in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port as all the accomodations were full.
 
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@Ianinam, just out of curiosity, when I want to make a booking for the Roncesvalles albergue for tomorrow Saturday 29 April, I get a message that there are zero beds left. Would you happen to know whether this refers to 60 beds only or to all the beds of the albergue?

1682677449933.png
 
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Thank you, @Ianinam, for your always clear and knowledgeable answers as a frequent hospitalera at Roncesvalles.

I certainly don’t want to create worries but I think it is good for new pilgrims to have clarity. I know that one can walk on and go further to the next village(s) or take a taxi and one will find a bed for the night, and that is fine for many.

I personally would not want to miss such an iconic and historic place as Roncesvalles. Not the first time, not the second time, and if there ever is a third time for me, also not on my third time. 🥹
 
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Ianinam

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Oh dear - looks like I'm out of luck then! It seems like pretty much everywhere nearby is full up as well. In such circumstances, is it consiered acceptable to sleep outside the building?
If you bring a tent you can sleep behind the albergue, we have plenty of place for tents and for € 3,00 you can use our toilets, shower, kitchen etc. The nights still are very, very cold at the moment so bring a good sleepmattress and sleepingbag if you sleep in a tent!
 
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Doingit

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So if choose the diner, it is offered at a time which doesn't interfere with mass, right?
The last dinner is at 8:30. Mass is at 8:00. Many Pilgrims went to mass then to dinner. I believe there was a 7:30 dinner that was already booked when I arrived at 3pm. It was so crowded on Wednesday night ! Very rigid management. Met people who were like me quite surprised. Buen camino!
 
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trecile

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Very rigid management. Met people who were like me quite surprised.
When you are dealing with 245 pilgrims a day, not to mention a rotating group of volunteers who are working, you need to have a set routine and rules, - it makes the operation run smoother.
 

camster

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The albergue has been full every day during the last weeks. So we had to send pilgrims to the more expensive hotels, or with a taxi to other places.
I read in another thread that you will start your camino this coming weekend. Be aware that this coming weekend will be the busiest period of the year, as Monday will be a holiday in France and Spain, and the first two weeks of May are always very, very busy. So try to reservate a bed and dinner in Roncesvalles (and make reservations in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, and Zubiri, and Pamplona) or walk fast and start early. If you arrive at 1 or 2 pm in Roncesvalles we will probably have a bed. Probably not a bed in the new renovated albergue, but in the sótano (basement) or Dependencia (overflow/winter-albergue). But a bed is a bed ...
Last week pilgrims had to sleep in the gymnasium in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port as all the accomodations were full.
So, as I understand, May is the busiest on the camino, or not? I start first week of July, should I expect albergues to be as full as in May?
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Ianinam

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So, as I understand, May is the busiest on the camino, or not? I start first week of July, should I expect albergues to be as full as in May?
Normally July is by far not as busy as May (and the first two weeks in September), but this year .... I really don't know. April has been busier than ever before; this year is really different from other years. I assume this must be the after Covid effect. Much more American, Canadian, Australian and especially Korean people walking the Camino after all the lockdowns.

And if you start first week of July: avoid sleeping in Pamplona from 6th till 14th of July because of the San Fermin festivities (running of the bulls). The municipal albergue is closed, probably most of the private albergues also and hotelprices go up to € 700,00 a night.
 
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Håkan Wiik

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
Hello,
When I did my Camino 2017 the meals at Roncevalles was the worst during my whole Caminor. If I come back I wouldn't eat there
 

RuiCarneiro

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My first Caminho (Frances) will start at 29/06
So if choose the diner, it is offered at a time which doesn't interfere with mass, right?
Hi. Pilgrim mass is at 20.00 from Monday to Friday and at 18.00 on weekends and holidays. You have two timeslots to dinner: 19.00 and 20.30.
So both allow you to attend pilgrim's mass.
And i totally agree with Bradypus. I only choose dinner, because you can have a way better breakfast in Burguete next morning.
Ultreya!
 
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NebraskaKate

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yes- they'll bring you a double portion of the meatless feature- i think i had spaghetti.
I am vegetarian- Last summer '22, they had a meal with choice of pasta or soup and then choices of a meat entree. Instead of the meat entree' they gave me the soup then the pasta when the "meat" came out. It was one of my better vegetarian meals on the Camino!
 
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trecile

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I am vegetarian- Last summer '22, they had a meal with choice of pasta or soup and then choices of a meat entree. Instead of the meat entree' they gave me the soup then the pasta when the "meat" came out. It was one of my better vegetarian meals on the Camino!
I'm not a vegetarian, but I often order two first plates, for example salad and pasta instead of a first and second plate - one can only eat so many French fries!
 
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thejoker

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So, as I understand, May is the busiest on the camino, or not? I start first week of July, should I expect albergues to be as full as in May?
I've walked the camino in the summer and in Spring. Summer is MUCH quieter until around Ponferrada, and when walking outside the popular guide book stages, some of the places have been almost empty. Koldo, former hospitalero in Maneru once stated he couldn't believe the difference in numbers, with May pilgrims sleeping on the floor and in the small courtyard of his former albergue, while Summer pilgrims had the choice of any bed they liked.
In spite of the perceived extra challenges with the weather (though I think it's exaggerated), a Summer Camino is far more relaxed affair, with beautiful walking especially between 5 and 11am. Summer walking also gives you the excuse to enjoy very long, lingering lunches , finishing all that wine over 3 lazy hours.
 
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Ianinam

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At the moment it is a madhouse in Roncesvalles. People slept outside, 80 people slept on the floor in the old albergue Itzandeguia, without toilets nor shower....
No beds available until Pamplona. Don't start your Camino Francés now! Make other plans, walk another Camino, but don't start now at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This year is totally crazy.
 
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At the moment it is a madhouse in Roncesvalles. People slept outside, 80 people slept on the floor in the old albergue Itzandeguia, without toilets nor shower....
No beds available until Pamplona. Don't start your Camino Francés now! Make other plans, walk another Camino, but don't start now at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This year is totally crazy.
That is particular good advice for pilgrims who will start walking in 2028 when the 1st of May falls on a Monday again. :)

1st of May on a Monday - the ideal conditions for a perfect storm. Spanish and European pilgrims will start not only from SJPP but also from Roncesvalles (to a lesser extent) and from Pamplona on the Friday and Saturday and also Sunday … and a few of them will return home, as planned, after only a few days or a week.

And I don’t know what it is this year … even I went for a little 1st of May trip this year (not in Spain though) which I’ve rarely done previously. 😇

PS: @Ianinam, speaking of meals, I had appelgebak met slagroom yesterday. I will walk miles for that. :cool:
 
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camster

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I've walked the camino in the summer and in Spring. Summer is MUCH quieter until around Ponferrada, and when walking outside the popular guide book stages, some of the places have been almost empty. Koldo, former hospitalero in Maneru once stated he couldn't believe the difference in numbers, with May pilgrims sleeping on the floor and in the small courtyard of his former albergue, while Summer pilgrims had the choice of any bed they liked.
In spite of the perceived extra challenges with the weather (though I think it's exaggerated), a Summer Camino is far more relaxed affair, with beautiful walking especially between 5 and 11am. Summer walking also gives you the excuse to enjoy very long, lingering lunches , finishing all that wine over 3 lazy hours.
Very exciting to know. I was worried about finding a bed, but now, after reading your comment, a little bit of stress and apprehension have faded.
 
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NebraskaKate

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Last summer ('22) I scheduled dinner for 19:00 hr and finished eating just as Mass across the street was about to begin. I also had the paid breakfast. I was glad I did both dinner and breakfast as the food was good, the price was good , the timing and location was great and most of all the companionship of the pilgrims at each meal was so enjoyable. Over half of the people dining with me shared my journey all the way to Santiago so I was so glad to have met them so early. I do not recall many other places to eat there.
It was a beautiful church and Mass- The priest who said Mass also invited us after Mass for a short tour which included an English brochure to follow along and a quick trip under the altar to the crypt where no one was entombed, but the acoustics were good for singing! Great Camino memories- Buen Camino
 
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btw one of the best, most enjoyable vegan/vegetarian dishes i had was the Agora in Ponferrada. not far off the camino- it’s delicious and most pleasant little place. i don’t believe it’s strictly vegetarian but all is fresh organic ingredients and they have a little artisan bakery appended to it too. 5 stars! their web address is agoraponferrada.es.
 
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Just wondering about how long the church service is in Roncesvalles. Seems that you are unlikely to get to make it to an 8:30 pm dinner if you attend the service at 8pm. I'm afraid we will be slow coming over the Pyrenees and not make it in time for the 7pm dinner though.
 

Ianinam

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The 8.30 pm dinner will be a bit of a problem. The church service takes approx. half an hour or a few minutes more, but then you probably will miss the most important and emotionele part of it: the blessing of the pilgrims who are called to come forward and get their blessing from the priest. And I know the priests do not like it when people leave the church during the mass ...
If you have made your reservation already, and if you arrive before 7 pm you can ask at the check-in desk whether there are still tickets for the 7 pm dinner and you can swap them then if still available.
 
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The 8.30 pm dinner will be a bit of a problem. The church service takes approx. half an hour or a few minutes more, but then you probably will miss the most important and emotionele part of it: the blessing of the pilgrims who are called to come forward and get their blessing from the priest. And I know the priests do not like it when people leave the church during the mass ...
If you have made your reservation already, and if you arrive before 7 pm you can ask at the check-in desk whether there are still tickets for the 7 pm dinner and you can swap them then if still available.
Thank you for the information. I definitely would not want to leave the service early....it bothers me when people do that! I am probably just getting pre-camino jitters and we will be in Roncesvalles in plenty of time for both dinner and church! I will book the 7pm dinner as soon as I can! Thanks again for the help!
 
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Mar 17, 2018
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You will be there in July? I am a hospitalera there from July 14th till 28th. Maybe we meet?
We will be leaving St Jean Pied de Port on July 11 and stay the night in Roncesvalles. We will just miss you! Thank you for volunteering as a hospitalera!
 
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CaminoPhotos

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I'm about to book Roncesvalles and I have a choice of breakfasts, picnic and diner.
Are they worth it?
Are they served at fixed times? I ask because I intend to go to the pilgrims mass at night too. Is the diner a sort of communal meal at a big table?
Also, is the breakfast served at a certain time and I would have to wait to get walking?
Thank you!
If you have dinner in Hotel Roncesvalles it is fabulous. They also do an impressive buffet breakfast too. Very high quality.
 
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davejsy

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Dinner - yes, breakfast or picnic - no.
As others have said, the dining options in Roncesvalles are limited, and while the food may not be great I enjoyed the communal nature of the dinner. I opted for the breakfast my first time there, and then had to wait to get it, and it wasn't really worth the price. On subsequent trips I preferred walking to Burguete or Espinal for breakfast.
Depending when you walk there may be nowhere open in Burguete which was the case late last September. Espinal had a wonderful place for breakfast though.
 

Scott Fraser

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Dinner. Yes. (There really is no other choice unless you want to eat off the bar menu at the hotel).

Picnic. Lots of places to eat along the way the next day - and small shops where you can buy a picnic a la cart

Breakfast - IMO, No. I would walk to Burgette and stop at the cafe at the beginning of the town (you can’t miss it). The pastries are fresh and there are tortillas, etc if you want a hot breakfast. You can choose what you’d like and what fits your budget. (Although, I have to admit I’ve never tried the Alberque breakfast - others might recommend it)??
 
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