Besancon to Vercelli - remembrance of times past

[BobM]

Monday, June 17

On my return to Besancon in June 2013 after walking there from Canterbury in 2012 I found the city to be still a work in progress.

The streets are still in a chaos of construction as the new tram line is installed and residents complain in the paper about noise and disruption.

The kebab café near the train station where I ate and chatted to the owner last year, a respectable Turkish man, has now closed down with no trace whatever left of its former life – just cold, anonymous metal shutters.

I understand the tram project, but what became of the Turkish man? Why did his life change? People always have to eat, especially all those young travellers pouring through the busy train station – and kebabs are quick and cheap. All things change, but some changes make me feel sad.

Tomorrow I start on the journey to Vercelli, the next section of my three-year Via Francigena. Four years if I count the year I wimped out because I thought it would be too hard. Another leap into the unknown, the looming Pass through snaggle-tooth mountains always in the back of my mind.

The Pass is also a big psychological divide. Once over it, the way is downhill, the challenge met, all will be easy after the Pass. How often do we say to ourselves, I will be happy if I win the lottery or some other dream comes true? But success always seems to sow the seeds of a vague discontent, a yearning for something more that can’t quite be grasped.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Tuesday, June 18 (Besancon to Trepot, 19.4km)

Today was Deborah’s day. After taking a picture not long after leaving Besancon I turned around to walk on, and there she was, smiling, with her heavy pack - “I can get more in my new one”.

Day One for me, but Day “Many” for Deborah, who had started in Canterbury weeks ago.

We walked together until our paths diverged and I gradually learned how remarkable she is. Deborah is on a mission, committed in ways that many aspiring pilgrims seem not to be.

In pursuing her mission, Deborah has done many long walks, including Israel from south to north - much of it through desert. “I carried 6 litres of water sometimes.”

See http://www.walktheworldforlove.wordpress.com

Commitment. Bridges burnt so that stronger ones can be built to a better world. The big thing is to try, to have faith - to hope that even one of us can make a difference.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Wednesday, June 19 (Trepot to Aubonne, 28.5km)

Today was a hot day, but the heat has not yet burnt away the lush growth of late spring, drying everything out. Hay has been cut and left dotted about fields in giant rolls.

But where are the birds? The countryside seems so quiet without the frantic birdsong of spring.

Pushing through a field of tall grass sent pollen flying in clouds of wispy smoke, covering everything. My water bottles looked as if they had been dusted with talcum powder. Enough pollen on my clothes and pack to ensure days of red-eyed sneezing to come.

Farm dogs of indeterminate savagery ran barking at me, bereft of even a walking pole for defence, until an old lady called them off – then offered me fresh water, hurrying indoors to fetch it.

 

[BobM]

Aubonne to Pontarlier (Thurs 20 June, 20km)

Today started with ominous dark clouds and rumbles of thunder and not long after I started walking the skies opened with cracks of thunder and deluging rain. Fortunately I was passing through a small village that gave me some shelter from the torrent. The storm passed quickly and in an hour I was walking through country that was quite dry.

Later I came to confusing forest paths caused by fresh logging and machinery. In Sigeric’s day travellers had other fears in the dark primeval forests of Europe: there might be robbers and perhaps also malign spirits from pre-Christian times.

I decided to follow the larger and older track, even though my GPS unit showed it was taking me steadily away from the next waypoint. I pressed on, hoping that the path would eventually loop back towards the waypoint, which it did.

GPS units are a great aid to navigation, but what they tell you requires interpretation. A GPS compass shows the direction to the next waypoint in a straight line, regardless of how the path might twist and turn as you walk to the waypoint. On a very loopy path the compass might sometimes show you to be walking away from the waypoint. Very disconcerting until you realise what is happening. With an accurate map you can see the big picture and all is obvious.

A GPS unit can also lead to unwise over-confidence, but that is a story for later.

Bob M

 

[Magnara]

Your words brought back wonderful memories or our "Via". I hope you keep posting, it will be great to walk along those paths in my mind's eye as you go. I am sure when you walk into St Peter's square you will have the same rush of emotion as we did - the long walk, the wonderful people, the sensational landscape, achieving the goal - and on the VF, with hardly any other pilgrims. Walk safely and keep posting.
Maggie Ramsay
"The Italian Camino" (Amazon)

 

[BobM]

Pontarlier to Jougne (Fri 21June, 20km)

The mountains are getting closer. I will be in Switzerland tomorrow!

Sitting on a wayside seat, perfectly placed to capture wonderful views, jagged hills rose before me with golden sunlight painting the tips of rocky ridges. Behind was the rounded valley I had already walked that morning.

Later on I would tread softly on dappled forest paths beside a rushing stream of clear, cold water.

Today’s photo is a composite of two images that tries to capture the mutability of memory. Memories overlap over time, some becoming stronger, others fading – but all of them changing.
Each recalled memory is a subjective reconstruction of an imagined past, coloured by all the emotions of that time as well as the emotions of later times.

“Yesterday is but a dream and tomorrow is only a vision, but today well-lived makes every yesterday a dream of happiness and every tomorrow a vision of hope.” – Sanskrit verse.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Jougne to Orbe (Sat 22 June, 19.3km)

I crossed into Switzerland via a small country track with only a few cows and tinkling bells to check my passport and to welcome me.

Today was a very pleasant walk, with lots of country paths; forests - with a tangle of route signs at one fork; an autoroute arcing across a valley; the remains of a Roman road. Even a very good model of a Spanish galleon in a small roadside garden.

Readers will see that some of my stages are 20km or less. The availability of accommodation often means I have to choose short stages because I prefer not to walk more than 30km a day.

On some stages one could simply follow main roads instead of the VF route to save distance. In a few cases the roads probably reflect Sigeric’s actual route more accurately than the local VF route. But the main roads can be dangerous, so care is needed.

 

[BobM]

Orbe to Echallens (Sun 23June, 18.4km)

Today I had to detour to Echallens to get accommodation and to optimise subsequent stage distances.

The receptionist and a patron at my hotel yesterday (Hotel/motel des Mosaiques, Orbe) were very helpful in finding me a motel at Echallens (Motel Beauregard, Villars le Terroir, on the main road out of Echallens to Yverdon).

There was a cold wind at times today. Lots of weekend cyclists and runners. A busy golf course! Strawberry pickers filling their little buckets, children calling excitedly to one another. Ripening fields of grain.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Echallens to Cully (Mon 24 June, 29.6km)

There are two routes from Echallens back to the VF - a direct route along the main road, and a longer one on smaller country roads. I chose the shorter main road, despite its heavy traffic, because I wanted to reach Cully today and make up time lost on earlier stages.

Large mowers were cutting grass on both sides of the road, causing traffic to back up in both directions with frequent overtaking. So I had to be aware constantly of dangers from behind. Steady rain was falling and visibility was not good. It was a very unpleasant experience until I got back to the VF route and onto small roads and paths.

I reached Lausanne as the rain stopped and the sky cleared. Lausanne would be a wonderful place to explore, but I had no interest in visiting the sights. But I was interested in having a large bowl of spaghetti, salad and endless amounts of bread at a café near the cathedral. The lovely ladies who served me made sure I was well fed.

The remainder of the walk through endless suburbia was horrible until a brief (steep!) excursion up into the vineyards just before Cully; with wonderful views down to the lake and across to the mountains. More vineyards tomorrow.

Lausanne would make a good starting point for those who want to walk part of the VF but have limited time. The first two days along the lake are quite flat and allow the body to adjust easily to walking. There are wonderful lake and mountain views. There are ample facilities for eating, accommodation and shopping. You could even add variety and interest by taking one of the frequent ferries that connect towns on the lake.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Cully to Villeneuve (Tues 25 June, 23.9km)

Neat vineyards sweep down to the lake, carrying the eye across rippling water to snowy mountain tops. The grapes were just out of flower, with tiny bunches of pinhead-sized fruit. Workers were busy pruning back vigorous foliage to expose the grapes to sunlight.

It was an incredibly lovely, timeless scene – well worth the climb from the lakeside road.

Today was probably the loveliest walk I have done so far on the VF; with lake views, shady paths and glimpses across the lake to mountains at every step. There are many seats so you can relax for a moment to savour everything – and perhaps to recall other lakes and other peaceful moments. . . .

“The Lake Isle of Innisfree”

I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;
Nine bean rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee,
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.

And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,
Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;
There midnight's all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,
And evening full of the linnet's wings.

I will arise and go now, for always night and day
I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;
While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements gray,
I hear it in the deep heart's core.
-- William Butler Yeats

 

[lovingkindness]

lovely photos.
Cheers

 

[BobM]

Villeneuve to St Maurice (Wed 26 June, 26.4km)

The VF finally leaves the Lake at Villeneuve and heads up the Rhone valley into mountains that loom ever closer. I walked on very quiet roads beside a canal and the fast-flowing river, milky-grey with silt washed down by snow melt. Wonderful views made for very enjoyable walking.

I am a little tired today and would like to take a break, but “The Pass” draws me ineluctably on.

Therefore am I still
A lover of the meadows and the woods
And mountains; and of all that we behold
From this green earth; of all the mighty world
Of eye, and ear,—both what they half create,
And what perceive; well pleased to recognise
In nature and the language of the sense
The anchor of my purest thoughts, the nurse,
The guide, the guardian of my heart, and soul
Of all my moral being.

--- extract from "Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey" - Wordsworth

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Great account Bob. Look forward to reading more- a real adventure on the less-travelled road.
Margaret

 

[BobM]

Great account Bob. Look forward to reading more- a real adventure on the less-travelled road.
Margaret

Thanks, Margaret. I will plug on with a new post every day. The challenge is to say something interesting each day apart from the bare bones of the walk.

BTW, I make few comments on acommodation unless there is something special to say or a place stands out so much that it deserves comment (eg Villa Emilia at Roppolo and its wonderful owner Loretta). But I have given a full list of all the places I stayed at, plus costs and comments, to Alison Raju (CPR, Cicerone guidebook) and Paul Chinn (Lightfoot guidebook).

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

St Maurice to Martigny (Thurs 27 June, 18.5km)

It was cloudy all day today, with a cold wind. There are a few wind turbines where the valley narrows, funnelling and strengthening the wind.

Tomorrow the VF leaves the Rhone River valley and starts to ascend through narrower valleys to Orsieres and eventually to THE PASS.

There is a train line running all the way from Lausanne to Orsieres that pretty much follows the VF route. See http://www.tmrsa.ch/lignes_et_horaires.htm for the detailed train (and bus) routes and timetables.

The train provides flexibility in case of accommodation difficulties or if you don’t want to walk a particular stage. There is a potentially tricky section on tomorrow’s stage where the train might be an option in bad weather.

Bob M

 

[Magnara]

Great posts - I envy you the exhilaration of reaching the Hospice at the Grand St Bernard Pass just ahead of you. Loving the photos too - nice one of Chillon Castle and the lake.
Maggie Ramsay

 

[BobM]

Martigny to Orsieres (Fri 28June, 19.6km)

There are a few stiff climbs and switchback trails as you traverse the left side of the valley after leaving Martigny, with a couple of steep, scrambling descents requiring care. It is rocky in many places with small boulders to clamber over. The path was often quite narrow but not alarmingly so. A few places have chains to hold onto. The difficult section takes about 80 minutes to cross.

Walkers with heavy loads in wet, slippery conditions could find this section tricky to negotiate. Both the Cicerone and Lightfoot guidebooks have warnings about it, so to help others who have not yet walked the route, I have uploaded over 20 geotagged photos to Picasa: https://picasaweb.google.com/bob.m.melb ... rMartigny# . You will also be able to see exact locations in Google Maps.

After Bouvernier the path seemed to continue into the forest beyond a large land slip but it soon dwindled to faint (probably imaginary) traces as I made my way deeper into the forest. One sometimes sees what one wants to see! My GPS showed the next waypoint was only about 700m away and I was heading to it, albeit slowly.

So I pressed on through increasingly steep and difficult country with thick vegetation pulling at my clothes and pack; and steep, crumbly slopes requiring me to haul myself up the sides of loose scree falls using trees. The ground was very broken underfoot with large rocks and fallen branches hidden in undergrowth. At the bottom of the boulder-strewn slope a small river slipped peacefully among mossy stones, dappled with sunlight, unaware of the struggle unfolding in the grim forest above.

After about 45 minutes of strenuous bush-bashing – it seemed like hours - I eventually reached the way point, there to have a snack and tend to assorted nicks from bramble thorns.

A GPS compass may show the way but it does not show the actual walking conditions en route – a very important point to remember before one becomes too psychologically committed to pressing on, seduced by the accuracy of a GPS unit.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Orsieres to Bourg St Pierre (Sat 29 June, 16.4km)

It was a steady, relentless climb of 600m on a good roads and forested tracks up the side of the valley all the way to Bourg St Pierre. It rained all day, getting heavier and colder with increasing altitude.

A final slog from the valley bottom up to Bourg St Pierre, in rain and sometimes foggy cloud . . . bleating sheep looming out of the fog . . . cold rain dripping steadily down my numb hands and legs . . . where is that village?

I turned a bend and there it was at last. Seven degrees C.

Having arrived early (Hotel du Cret) I was able to enjoy both lunch and dinner in the excellent restaurant, served by very friendly staff.

Tomorrow I have to climb another 900m to THE PASS at 2400m. The weather looks bad and the hotel is often fogged in.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Bourg St Pierre to Col Grand St Bernard (Sun 30June, 14.4km – ascent 900m)

I woke to bright sunshine and a crisp 6 degrees C. There is majestic beauty in elevated places, well worth the struggle to get there. I want to leap and sing!

I walk with mindful steps
Embraced by sunlit snowy peaks.
Flowers smile among rocks.

. . . crossed the snow line in mid-morning in bright sunshine surrounded by the most exhilarating views . . . relentless ascents across treeless hillsides . . . patches of melting snow grew more frequent as the altitude increased.

There are yellow lozenge waymarks painted on rocks (in both directions) all the way across exposed slopes. They would be very welcome if crossing the bleak, treeless hillside in foggy weather.

I took the switchback road for the last few km to the pass to avoid snow on the path. It was a relentless slog in weekend traffic. Noisy, pestilential motorcycles and their anarchic riders.

The Hospice welcomed me as it has done for countless others over many centuries. I sank into its spiritual embrace, thankful for so many undeserved blessings, my trials over.

Today was such a wonderful day that I have uploaded some geotagged photos to Picasa for anyone who would like to see the route in more detail. https://picasaweb.google.com/bob.m.melb ... rnardPass#

Bob M

 

[KiwiNomad06]

What a magnificent day you had for The Climb Bob. And such a welcome resting place at the end. Beautiful photos. Margaret

 

[BobM]

Col Grand St Bernard to Etroubles (Mon 1July, 14.7km)

The weather was good so I skipped my rest day and continued to Etroubles, after a late breakfast with a few other walkers (one pilgrim).

The lake at the pass was still frozen and there was a lot of snow on the Italian side of the mountains, so I took the road for a while. Nevertheless, I had to cross hard packed snow later on the VF path. There was even one dedicated cross-country skier making the most of the disappearing snow.

The route was very picturesque below the snow line. But parts of the path after St Rhemy were quite unpleasant, very narrow in places, with steepish descents and crumbly edges hidden in grass.

The 1100m descent to Etroubles was not as easy as I had expected. Different muscles are stressed during long descents.

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

Fascinating picture of the lake at the pass on the 1st July. Do you mind if I add it to my log of the same pictures taken by different people at different times of the year. It certainly shows how the snow can last well into the summer on the pass.

 

[BobM]

Fascinating picture of the lake at the pass on the 1st July. Do you mind if I add it to my log of the same pictures taken by different people at different times of the year. It certainly shows how the snow can last well into the summer on the pass.

No problem, William.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Etroubles to Aosta (Tue 2July, 17.7km)

Much of the day was a muscle busting descent of 700m on good, but steep, paths – especially after Gignod. It started with a climb out of Etroubles, then a very nice walk beside a water channel in forest before the long descent into Aosta.

The day got steadily warmer with lower altitude. Small orchards started to appear in the warmer climate.

I plan to have a rest day in Aosta. After crossing the pass the walk seemed to become more of a chore. Not particularly motivated at the moment.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Aosta to Chatillon (Thu 4 July, 30km)

Today was a difficult day, quite hot, with many short but steep ascents and descents on minor roads and tracks shadowing the two main roads to Aosta – the autostrada and the older SS26. Pilgrims who want to avoid the strenuous hillside paths could follow the easier and shorter SS26 all the way to Chatillon.

The VF route is generally well waymarked, but care is needed just before the waterfall of Rus Chandianaz(?), which was dry. Then there was an interminable but shady walk along a good path across a hillside, with a water channel on one side of the path.

About 5km before Chatillon there is derelict hamlet that the VF bypasses. The bypass was hidden in thick grass (not much foot traffic evident) and I entered the hamlet by mistake, having to clamber over large rocks and fallen building debris to get back to the VF route. But it was interesting. Why were all those stone houses just abandoned?

It seemed like I would never get to Chatillon, but eventually I arrived drenched in sweat, extremely tired, and found a room at Albergo Dufour.

There was no accommodation available for tomorrow at Issogne. The owner of Albergo Dufour was very helpful in finding me a place to stay at Verres, including printing maps and showing me the route in Google Street View.

Bob M

PS: Only another 6 days to Vercelli, so stick with me.

 

[BobM]

Chatillon to Verres (Fri 5 July, 23.2km)

There were good “route 103” waymarks today, so I decided to follow them, not the guidebook, to Montjovet, hoping I was not embarking on a long grand tour of the district. It turned out to be an enjoyable walk.

Then there was a long, boring walk along the road beside the river Dora Baltea to Verres.

I stayed at the Ostello Il Casello next to the train station. There are no shops or places to eat close by – you have to walk possibly 1km into the centre of Verres. The Ostello staff cooked dinner for me – the solitary guest. I have seen only two other pilgrims so far - Deborah on day 1 and one other at the Hospice.

There are a number of places to stay in Verres, so it a good alternative stop if accommodation is not available at Issogne.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Verres to Pont Saint Martin (Sat 6 July, 15km)

Sometimes I look back and see, far away, almost out of sight, the snowy tips of mountains through which I walked a few days ago.

There is a sense of wistfulness in looking back, of something precious that has been lost in the fading past and a longing to be once more among flowery mountain meadows and placid lakes, where the spirit can soar again and be at peace: another chance to seek forgiveness and perhaps to find the path that might have been taken all those years ago . . . .

The Moving Finger writes; and, having writ,
Moves on: nor all thy Piety nor Wit
Shall lure it back to cancel half a Line,
Nor all thy Tears wash out a Word of it. * . . . . . .

I turn away from such reveries and lift my eyes to the hills before me, resuming a journey still to be completed. The hills are losing their sharp edginess and the valleys are opening up into the flat farmland ahead.

Vineyards appeared today for the first time since leaving Lausanne on the far side of the Alps. The grapes are about the size of small peas and will soon swell into luscious fruit in the summer sun. The harvest will be at hand for another year as summer wanes and autumn approaches.

A dominant feature of today’s walk was the huge fortress of Bard overlooking the busy tourist town of Hone.
Pont St Martin is very picturesque with its Roman Bridge. Actually, the restored “Roman Bridge” is a bit like grandpa’s axe that has had five new handles and three new heads.

I stayed at B&B il Castel. Very central, close to the Roman Bridge. An inviting flower-covered building. The owner was very helpful. Excellent breakfast. One of my two favourite stays on this year’s VF.

* Edward Fitzgerald's translation of The Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyam, 1859

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Pont Saint Martin to Ivrea (Sun 7 July, 25.4km)

There are very good VF signs in a large “street sign” format on this stage. I followed them instead of paying too much attention to my guidebook.

I took a diversion to see a small lake (Lago Pistono) near Montalto Dora that was crowded with walkers and families having Sunday picnics.

Ivrea was busy with people attending the annual Festival of St. Savino (Sabinus of Spoleto) that starts on July 7. During the festival a horse fair takes place with a carriage exhibition and horse shows on the main square. The website below has more information: http://www.visitfai.it/dimore/castellodimasino/your-visit-193-Fairs-and-Events?lang=eng

The Carnival Festival in February with its famous Battle of the Oranges would also be interesting – if you care to walk the VF in winter. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_the_Oranges

Local festivals are worth researching in advance because they can add so much extra enjoyment to long walks, especially if they coincide with rest days.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Formatting is a bit crazy due to the new website. Maybe there is a "Preview" function somewhere to fix formatting, but I can't find it.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Formatting is a bit crazy due to the new website. Maybe there is a "Preview" function somewhere to fix formatting, but I can't find it.

Bob M

Now I have a better grip of the new website I was able to fix up the formatting of my post. Still can't find out how to move photo thumbnails to the bottom of the text, but maybe they look better at the top.

I like the new photo viewer. I resize my photos to 450x 350 pixels for the website, but on the old website they were still just a bit too big (at least with my computer screen resolution/size combo). On the new website you can see the pics full size without having to scroll the image - and the framing is more elegant.

Well done, Ivar!! It's often a real nightmare to rejig a website, but you have done well. Thx for the section for comments/help etc.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Ivrea to Roppolo (Mon 8 July, 23.9km)

Much of the route today was through forest (on excellent tracks) and fields of wheat and corn; with a final lovely walk to Roppolo beside trellised Kiwi fruit vines at Lago di Viverone. Yes! Kiwi fruit!

I stayed at Villa Emilia, the warmest and most enjoyable place of the whole journey from Besançon to Vercelli. One other pilgrim was staying there and we had a very pleasant time. I felt very much at home. Comfortable room. Garden and a separate open building for meals and relaxation in good weather.

Loretta (the owner) has lived in Pakistan and Egypt and the whole place is decorated with things she has brought back. It turned out that we have both been to the same remote places in both countries.

Good people like Loretta deserve support. The local VF association keeps trying to drive down accommodation prices. That’s fine for a really basic B&B or albergo, but not for people who offer something special for pilgrims. In fact, why not arrange your stages to pass through Roppolo just to stay at Villa Emilia?

 

[BobM]

That upload worked OK on th enew website. My photos have all been resized to 450 x 360 (approx) pixels. Perhaps a little larger might be better. My screen resolution is 1920 x 1080 pixels. How photos look depends on the screen resolution of individual computers.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Roppolo to San Germano (Tue 9 July, 24.7km)

Today both of us from Villa Emilia walked together to San Germano. The weather started cloudy with thunder and light rain for a couple of hours.

After Santhia the route was through very flat farmland, nearly all rice fields. The VF wound its way among fields on small roads separating the water-filled fields. Although one could simply walk down the busy main road from Santhia to San Germano to save distance and time.

One day to go for me, but my companion will continue to Rome, hoping to arrive on August 14. I feel very strong and wish I could continue to Rome, step by step, one day at a time.

 

[BobM]

San Germano to Vercelli (Wed 10 July,17.2km, 495km from Besancon).

We followed the busy main road until we were able to take a track into the rice fields, where it was very pleasant walking in excellent weather without the noise of traffic.

Not all the rice field paths were straightforward. In one place we threw our packs over a small irrigation channel and jumped across rather than looking for a longer way round among the fields. Later near Vercelli the path was blocked by a fence and we had to backtrack a few hundred metres and walk on the main road for the final stretch into Vercelli.

My journey to Vercelli ended as it had begun with Deborah at Besancon; in the company of a pilgrim whose journey to Rome would take many more days.

Deborah was ahead of me, spreading her message of love as a transforming power in our troubled world. At the Hospice on the Col Grand St Bernard I met another pilgrim who had also been touched by that message.

I will return to Vercelli next year when winter has passed and spring bursts forth, and set out anew on the ancient road to Rome.

Thanks to everyone who has stuck with me over the past 3 weeks. You have been in my thoughts each day as I wrote my stories, hoping to rekindle your own memories and perhaps even the emotions of your own journeys - remembrance of times past.

My posts have been light on practical matters, so if you want any more information please post a reply or leave a Private Message in this forum.

Afterword

Herman, my companion of the last two days, arrived safely in Rome on August 13 and will soon return to his family in The Netherlands.
Deborah is still on her mission, walking the world for love.

“To say goodbye is to die a little” - Raymond Chandler, The Long Goodbye.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Thanks Bob, that's been a great account. I wish you well for your months at home, and hope that your plans all fall into place for next spring. I look forward to reading of your next adventure.
Margaret

 

[William Marques]

Thanks for the memories.

 

[mspath]

Thanks for sharing your memories Bob! May you have another safe journey next spring when you "set out anew on the ancient road to Rome".

Margaret Meredith

 

[BobM]

Thanks for your kind thoughts. I have already looked through my guidebook for next year and there are some long stages to deal with. To take a tent or not, that is the question.

BTW, there is a famous pilgrimage route in Japan that might be interesting if we ever want a change from Europe!

http://wikitravel.org/en/88_Temple_Pilgrimage

Here are 20 walks chosen by National Geographic

http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/best-trails/worlds-best-grail-trails/

Regards

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

San Germano to Vercelli (Wed 10 July,17.2km, 495km from Besancon).

We followed the busy main road until we were able to take a track into the rice fields, where it was very pleasant walking in excellent weather without the noise of traffic.

Not all the rice field paths were straightforward. In one place we threw our packs over a small irrigation channel and jumped across rather than looking for a longer way round among the fields. Later near Vercelli the path was blocked by a fence and we had to backtrack a few hundred metres and walk on the main road for the final stretch into Vercelli.

My journey to Vercelli ended as it had begun with Deborah at Besancon; in the company of a pilgrim whose journey to Rome would take many more days.

Deborah was ahead of me, spreading her message of love as a transforming power in our troubled world. At the Hospice on the Col Grand St Bernard I met another pilgrim who had also been touched by that message.

I will return to Vercelli next year when winter has passed and spring bursts forth, and set out anew on the ancient road to Rome.

Thanks to everyone who has stuck with me over the past 3 weeks. You have been in my thoughts each day as I wrote my stories, hoping to rekindle your own memories and perhaps even the emotions of your own journeys - remembrance of times past.

My posts have been light on practical matters, so if you want any more information please post a reply or leave a Private Message in this forum.

Afterword

Herman, my companion of the last two days, arrived safely in Rome on August 13 and will soon return to his family in The Netherlands.
Deborah is still on her mission, walking the world for love.

“To say goodbye is to die a little” - Raymond Chandler, The Long Goodbye.

Thanks for you posts Bob , in last two years I walked fidenza to Siena ., and siena to rome
...and next year want to do Aosta to Fidenza ..
so shall bookmark this for next year and my daydreaming
from walkmag Melbourne

 

[Sheffield James]

I've thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread, BobM, so thank-you very much for sharing it with all of us. I am tempted to walk the VF from Canterbury to Rome all in one go, but I realise it is going to be quite a challenge. Which guides/references would make the ideal starter resource to help someone to start the planning/decision-making process (apart from your excellent account, that is!)? I am particularly interested in information about accommodation costs, stage durations, issues for vertigo sufferers, and personal safety.
Thank-you again, and every good wish for next year.

 

[AJ]

To take a tent or not, that is the question.

I carried a tent all the way from Canterbury to Rome and never used it!

 

[walkmag]

Monday, June 17

On my return to Besancon in June 2013 after walking there from Canterbury in 2012 I found the city to be still a work in progress.

The streets are still in a chaos of construction as the new tram line is installed and residents complain in the paper about noise and disruption.

The kebab café near the train station where I ate and chatted to the owner last year, a respectable Turkish man, has now closed down with no trace whatever left of its former life – just cold, anonymous metal shutters.

I understand the tram project, but what became of the Turkish man? Why did his life change? People always have to eat, especially all those young travellers pouring through the busy train station – and kebabs are quick and cheap. All things change, but some changes make me feel sad.

Tomorrow I start on the journey to Vercelli, the next section of my three-year Via Francigena. Four years if I count the year I wimped out because I thought it would be too hard. Another leap into the unknown, the looming Pass through snaggle-tooth mountains always in the back of my mind.

The Pass is also a big psychological divide. Once over it, the way is downhill, the challenge met, all will be easy after the Pass. How often do we say to ourselves, I will be happy if I win the lottery or some other dream comes true? But success always seems to sow the seeds of a vague discontent, a yearning for something more that can’t quite be grasped.

Bob M

Hi Bob do you have a blog from your 2102 walk toBesancon

cheers walkmag

 

[William Marques]

Check out this post
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-canterbury-besancon-section-of-the-vf.15178/

 

[BobM]

I've thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread, BobM, so thank-you very much for sharing it with all of us. I am tempted to walk the VF from Canterbury to Rome all in one go, but I realise it is going to be quite a challenge. Which guides/references would make the ideal starter resource to help someone to start the planning/decision-making process (apart from your excellent account, that is!)? I am particularly interested in information about accommodation costs, stage durations, issues for vertigo sufferers, and personal safety.
Thank-you again, and every good wish for next year.

Sorry for the delayed response> I have been away for over a month and just got round to visiting this forum again.

Re info sources, there are two very good guides: Alison Raju's guide published in conjunction with the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (CPR). The other is the Paul Chinn & Babette Gallard guide (Lightfoot publications) to the Via Francigena. If you use that info to Google you can track down more exact details.

I prefer Paul Chinn's guide for its detailed GPX data and Paul Chinn's generous online support, but it is a very personal thing. Each guide has its dedicated users.

Apart from many blogs (like my EXCELLENT accounts in this forum I know, I know. I am completely shameless) you can get very useful information on stage distances, accomodation etc from sites that offer "tours" along the VF, such as this site:
http://www.francigenaways.com/desti...iginal-pilgrimage-to-rome/via-francigena.html

Re accomodation, I think the CPR accommodation list is the best and most up to date. But you have to join the CPR to get it. The two guidebooks I mentioned also have very good accomodation details. These references also list costs, but the data is only useful in a very general sense.

The CPR website also has links to a lot of other useful sites and would be a good place to start researching.

Re safety and vertigo, I don't have a specific reference. However both guidebooks mention a "tricky" section in Swizerland. I did not find any part of the VF (so far!) to be a problem, but each of us has our own tolerance levels. Re safety, the biggest issue with the VF is that quite a bit of the route is along busy roads that can certainly require great care. I had a couple of scares in France in 2012.

Hope this delayed response is still helpful.

Thanks for the best wishes for 2014. I am starting to think about it.

Through many dangers, toils and snares
I have already come;
'Tis Grace that brought me safe thus far
and Grace will lead me home.
- "Amazing Grace"

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob do you have a blog from your 2102 walk toBesancon

cheers walkmag

Sorry for the delayed response. I have been away for over a month and just got round to visiting this forum again. Here is a weblink to my 2012 walk in tihs forum:
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...besancon-section-of-the-vf.15178/#post-108639

If it does not work, go to the Search box at the top RHS of this webpage and search for "bobm" using the "Posted by member" box. You will find a lot of stuff, but just scroll through the pages to find what you want.

Hope that helps.

Regards

Bob M

 

[Sheffield James]

BobM,
the 'delayed' response is very helpful, so thanks again.As it happens, I joined the CPR as recently as last night, so I should be able to get hold of the accommodation list quite soon.
In case you're not aware, I opened a thread a few weeks ago to explore the feasibility of doing the first half of the VF by bicycle and the second half on foot. As you might expect, I've had a lot of really construcutive advice from the forum community on this way of doing it. There's so much to think about, and so I may well be looking for more advice as my thinking develops.

Best Wishes for your future plans,
Sheffield James

 

[BobM]

... I opened a thread a few weeks ago to explore the feasibility of doing the first half of the VF by bicycle and the second half on foot. As you might expect, I've had a lot of really construcutive advice from the forum community on this way of doing it. There's so much to think about, and so I may well be looking for more advice as my thinking develops.Sheffield James

Your "bike/walk" plan is very doable. The VF up to Besancon is very flat, especially if you choose bikeable routes. Paul Chinn's guide (Lightfoot Publications) is especially useful for cyclists as he describes alternative routes for cyclists where the walking path is unsuitable. I think Paul is more of a cyclist and horse rider than a walker. He and Babette Gallard have done some pretty amazing journeys.

Another big advantage for cyclists is that you have much more flexibility in choosing stage distances and hence the availability of accommodation is much greater. Getting accommodation was a constant preoccupation of mine from Calais to Besancon.

There are plenty of very convenient train stations along the route to Besancon, and even up to Orsieres in Switzerland, so it is very convenient for cyclists with all their equipment to exit the VF to go home,

You need to be very safety conscious, especially cycling on busy roads in poor visibility. But other cyclists can probably give better advice on that.

Anyway, good luck with your planning.

Regards

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

Bourg St Pierre to Col Grand St Bernard (Sun 30June, 14.4km – ascent 900m)

I woke to bright sunshine and a crisp 6 degrees C. There is majestic beauty in elevated places, well worth the struggle to get there. I want to leap and sing!

I walk with mindful steps
Embraced by sunlit snowy peaks.
Flowers smile among rocks.

. . . crossed the snow line in mid-morning in bright sunshine surrounded by the most exhilarating views . . . relentless ascents across treeless hillsides . . . patches of melting snow grew more frequent as the altitude increased.

There are yellow lozenge waymarks painted on rocks (in both directions) all the way across exposed slopes. They would be very welcome if crossing the bleak, treeless hillside in foggy weather.

I took the switchback road for the last few km to the pass to avoid snow on the path. It was a relentless slog in weekend traffic. Noisy, pestilential motorcycles and their anarchic riders.

The Hospice welcomed me as it has done for countless others over many centuries. I sank into its spiritual embrace, thankful for so many undeserved blessings, my trials over.

Today was such a wonderful day that I have uploaded some geotagged photos to Picasa for anyone who would like to see the route in more detail. https://picasaweb.google.com/bob.m.melb ... rnardPass#

Bob M

Hi Just re read your blog " Bourg to GSB , you are my hero for the day excited already

 

[BobM]

Hi Just re read your blog " Bourg to GSB , you are my hero for the day excited already

I just love mountains. If you look at my photo, the tallest peak on the left is Mt Everest seen from the summit of Gokyo Ri, 5400m. The Alps have the same majesty without the lung-busting altitude.

You will love the walk from BSP to GSB. I hope the weather gods will be kind to you.

Bob M

 

[Paul G]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for telling your story. I am particularly interested in your geotagged photos to Picasa on that tricky part of the trail, but the link is dead. Is there a way to correct or re-post these photos?
I am in the early stages of planning a VF pilgrimage to Rome starting near Lausanne as I am drawn to The Pass.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[Paul G]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for posting your experiences on the VF. I am in early stages of planning a pilgrimage to Rome from near Lausanne. I am particularly interested in your experiences in the tricky bit near Martigny and your 20 geotagged photos to Picasa. The link to your geotag photos is dead. Can you re-post them?
Thanks,
Paul

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for posting your experiences on the VF. I am in early stages of planning a pilgrimage to Rome from near Lausanne. I am particularly interested in your experiences in the tricky bit near Martigny and your 20 geotagged photos to Picasa. The link to your geotag photos is dead. Can you re-post them?
Thanks,
Paul

Hi Paul
I am off to Austria in a few days to walk part of Jacobsweg, so I don't have much time to fix the link before I go. I will be back on August 12. In the meantime, if I can fix the link, I will post a msg here.

Bob M

 

[domigee]

Hi Paul
I am off to Austria in a few days to walk part of Jacobsweg, so I don't have much time to fix the link before I go. I will be back on August 12. In the meantime, if I can fix the link, I will post a msg here.

Bob M

Buen camino @BobM , enjoy Austria!
Dominique

 

[BobM]

Just tried to fix the link, but no luck.

What I can do is email you the pics if you are willing to give me an email address that you don't mind being public in this forum. (Or send it in a Private Message in this forum).

The Zipped (ie compressed) folder is 7.87MB and contains 24 JPG images. You would need to be sure that your email settings allow an attachment of that size, and you know how to un-zip the attachment (right click on the folder, choose Open, double-click on the file name and you will see all the images. Double click on any image to see it. Or, better, click on "Extract All" in the bar at the top of the folder. )

I am using Windows 7, so the procedure might be slightly different on your PC.

Hope that helps.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Buen camino @BobM , enjoy Austria!
Dominique

Thanks, Dominique. Just finished a 22km training walk this afternoon, and I am a wreck already!!

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I forgot to mention that the 24 pics I recovered for the section after Martigny have lost their geotags. But it is obvious from the text in this thread where the general location is.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I had another look at Picasa, and was able to create a new live link to the pics for the tricky section after Martigny that Paul G asked about. Unfortunately, I could not recover the geotags. Here is the new link:

https://goo.gl/photos/reKrr6DUnA4rgVC68

So, Paul, I hope it works for you. Sometimes pics don't accurately reflect reality, so ask any further questions if you need more help. All the best for the walk - and crossing the Pass. Bravo!

Bob M

 

[Paul G]

I had another look at Picasa, and was able to create a new live link to the pics for the tricky section after Martigny that Paul G asked about. Unfortunately, I could not recover the geotags. Here is the new link:

https://goo.gl/photos/reKrr6DUnA4rgVC68

So, Paul, I hope it works for you. Sometimes pics don't accurately reflect reality, so ask any further questions if you need more help. All the best for the walk - and crossing the Pass. Bravo!

Bob M

Many thanks, Bob! This helps tremendously since I now see these trail conditions relative to what I have done before. While I see the challenges they are not quite as bad as I had imagined given the guide book descriptions.

 

[domigee]

Thanks, Dominique. Just finished a 22km training walk this afternoon, and I am a wreck already!!

Bob M

Hi Bob! I can sympathise.... Not done half as much training walks as I should have done and when I did, I too was a wreck!
Leaving UK 10th July and planning to walk from Grand Saint Bernard pass to Rome, hopefully.... Mmm...
Can't wait to read about your Austrian adventure.
Take care,
Dominique

 

[BobM]

Many thanks, Bob! This helps tremendously since I now see these trail conditions relative to what I have done before. While I see the challenges they are not quite as bad as I had imagined given the guide book descriptions.

I agree, Paul. But everyone differs in how they feel about tackling routes that are out of the ordinary, so Paul Chinn and Alison Raju have to emphasize difficult sections in their excellent guidebooks.

Here are a few more comments: Pics 15, 16 and 19 were taken pointing the camera down the path, so they may appear less steep than in reality. Pic 18 with the chain strung along the cliff on the left of a narrow path seems to suggest that you are on the edge of an abyss. It's not quite that bad - anyway, the trees will break your fall.

Also, bear in mind that my pics were taken a few years ago, and route conditions might have changed - hopefully for the better. If you are walking after wet weather, you will need to pay attention to slip hazards on rocks etc. I walked in dry conditions.

Good luck!

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob! I can sympathise.... Not done half as much training walks as I should have done and when I did, I too was a wreck!
Leaving UK 10th July and planning to walk from Grand Saint Bernard pass to Rome, hopefully.... Mmm...
Can't wait to read about your Austrian adventure.
Take care,
Dominique

All the best, Dominique. You will have an enjoyable, but long, descent from the Pass that can be tough on thigh muscles. Beautiful views. Aosta is a great city for a rest if needed. Plus heaps of other great places. Rice fields. But all those beautiful Tuscan villages later on the walk (eg San Gimignano) are all on hilltops - not so great for walkers!

My first actual walking day will be July 11. I will try to post updates each day in a separate thread. This walk is experimental in that I will have luggage transfers to lessen my load. I think I carried far too much last year on the VF del Sud, which made it difficult.

Ciao!

Bob M

 

[domigee]

Ciao! Same first day of walking!!!
Will look out for your posts.
All the best to you too,
Dominique