I have often thought that if I were to write a book about my walks in Spain, it would be called 'Bar Hopping Across Northern Spain.' Alas, it remains unwritten. But here are some of my favorites (sorry no photos, just links to google maps):
Vizkarret:
Bar Juan, you won’t necessarily pick this place for the friendly service; instead go because they have been serving pilgrims for decades, long before the new first-bar-you-come-to opened a few years ago, and they have the most fantastic egg
bocadillos that hit the spot after the early morning walk from Roncesvalles. And there’s a playground at the end of the plaza where you can swing on the swings and tap the town
fuente.
Zubiri:
Bar Valentín, also the town butcher, so you can get a hearty, meaty breakfast there, too, if that’s your thing. As local as local comes. Please tell Michel Nancy from San Francisco says hey.
Pamplona:
Herriko Taberna, for a loud Basque buzz and a solid vegetarian (and non-veg too) menu, located just inside the historic city walls; also vegetarian bocatos at the bar, yum.
Mesón de la Tortilla, for the largest daily variety of our favorite second breakfast treat, including veg options.
Café Peregrino, more of a tea house feel, sweet as can be, in a lovely plaza you might find by accident.
El Mentidero, for tapas in the evenings, great prices and selection, local buzz, cheaper than El Gaucho and not as fancy.
Estella:
Bar Pigor, in case you need a dose of ‘American Pie’ (the song, not the dessert), located just off the main plaza.
Hospital de Órbigo:
Don Suero de Quiñones, the bar is full of comfortable couches, some of which overlook the beautiful bridge. It’s the perfect spot to wait for your friends and enjoy the stream of pilgrims coming into town.
Trabadelo:
El Puente Peregrino, run by Dutch Elly who speaks at least five languages and serves up organic fair trade coffee in the gastropub below her pension. Warm and cozy and friendly.
Santiago:
Café Tertulia, run by a man who lived in New York and came back to Spain with a top-secret recipe for American pancakes. Located directly on the way out of Santiago headed towards Fisterra. Just saying.
Colmado Delicious, seriously, the best place for dessert in the city.
A Taberna O Bispo, favorite place for tapas in Santiago, heavy on the seafood.
These places were open as of October 2019; I hope they all have survived the pandemic. ¡Buen provecho!