Would love feedback on my planned route - Ponferrada to Santiago

[MariaE]

Hello everyone,
I am a 71 year old women planning my first Camino. I am thinking of starting at Ponferrada and walk a couple of weeks, starting on August 30, 2022. I would have preferred walking later in the year when it is not as hot, but timing doesn't work.

Here is what I have tentatively planned:
Ponferrada to Villafranca - already have reservation
Villafranca to Las Herrerias - have reservation
Las Herrerias to Fonfria - I would have liked to stay at O Cebreiro but everything is booked, so have reservation at Fonfria
Fonfria to Samos - have reservation at Samos
Samos to Sarria
Sarria to Portomarin
Portomarin to Ventas de Naron
Ventas de Naron to Palais de Rei
Palais the Rei to Melide
Melide to Arzua
Arzua to O Pedrouzo
O Pedrouzo to Santiage de Copostela

I don't have reservations after Samos.
Is it worth to make a stop between Portomarin and Palais de Rei? I am already planning a stop between Palais de Rei and Arzua.

I am comfortable walking 10 -12 miles on local trails, but should be fine walking longer, starting early in the day. I also don't walk that far every day

Thank you so much for any recommendations.
Maria

 

[SabsP]

Hi and welcome here on this forum ! Your plan looks feasible to me. And again there is no shame if you take a form of transport until Sarria ( when you want to receive the Compostela then from Sarria on you have to prove you walked the last hundred k ).

Let us hope that by that time weather has cooled down a bit.

Happy preparations!

 

[MariaE]

Hi and welcome here on this forum ! Your plan looks feasible to me. And again there is no shame if you take a form of transport until Sarria ( when you want to receive the Compostela then from Sarria on you have to prove you walked the last hundred k ).

Let us hope that by that time weather has cooled down a bit.

Happy preparations!

Thank you so much for your quick reply.

 

[VNwalking]

Once you get to Sarria you may decide to stay a bit before or a bit after the popular stage-ending points, in order to be out of sync with the crowd.
For example:
• Albergue Paloma y Lena or
Barbadelo (before and after Sarria)
• Villacha or Castromeijor/Gonzar (instead of Portomarin)
• Lestedo or San Xulian (instead of Palas de Rei)
• O Leboreiro or Boente (instead of Melide)
• Ribadiso or Castaneda (instead of Arzua)
• A Rua or Amenal (instead of O Pedrouzo)

 

[MariaE]

Once you get to Sarria you may decide to stay a bit before or a bit after the popular stage-ending points, in order to be out of sync with the crowd.
For example:
• Albergue Paloma y Lena or
Barbadelo (before and after Sarria)
• Villacha or Castromeijor/Gonzar (instead of Portomarin)
• Lestedo or San Xulian (instead of Palas de Rei)
• O Leboreiro or Boente (instead of Melide)
• Ribadiso or Castaneda (instead of Arzua)
• A Rua or Amenal (instead of O Pedrouzo)

Thank you VNwalking, this is awesome, exactly the kind of recommendations that I was looking for. I will start planning again

 

[Marbe2]

Are you giving yourself any rest time before you start walking?
Most of the way walking from Ponferrada to Villafranca you will be on is pavement. The way from Villafranca to Las Herrerias is the same. Neither day provides much cover from the sun.

Las Herrerias to Fonfria is doable but when you get to Las Herrerias, if you want to shorten that next day, arrange, the night before for a taxi otherwise you might have a long wait for a taxi when you arrive the next day in OCebreiro. You can set a time to be picked up and then ask for assistance with securing a taxi at wherever you are staying in Las Herrerias. Another option might be staying Pedrafita do Cebriero. Some establishments will pick you up and drop you back off in OCebreiro. You can pick up a bus from OCebreiro weekdays but the buses that run along the route run in the morning stop along the road L633 to Samos and then on to Sarria.

 

[VNwalking]

I will start planning again

Planning is fun, so by a means indulge. But don't feel you need anything set in stone. Being able to be spontaneous and respond to whatever moves the heart is one of the joys of the camino. After Sarria this is possible, but not as easily in bigger places.

 

[MariaE]

Are you giving yourself any rest time before you start walking?
Most of the way walking from Ponferrada to Villafranca you will be on is pavement. The way from Villafranca to Las Herrerias is the same. Neither day provides much cover from the sun.

Las Herrerias to Fonfria is doable but when you get to Las Herrerias, if you want to !shorten that next day, arrange, the night before for a taxi otherwise you might have a long wait for a taxi when you arrive the next day in OCebreiro. You can set a time to be picked up and then ask for assistance with securing a taxi at wherever you are staying in Las Herrerias. Another option might be staying Pedrafita do Cebriero. Some establishments will pick you up and drop you back off in OCebreiro. You can pick up a bus from OCebreiro weekdays but the buses that run along the route run in the morning stop along the road L633 to Samos and then on to Sarria.

Thank you Marbe2! I am planning to stay in Ponferrada for 2 nights before the walk. I was looking at Pedrafita, but I am doing luggage transfer, so I wasn't sure if they would deliver there. I will check that out, it looks like a really nice place to spend a night.

 

[MariaE]

Planning is fun, so by a means indulge. But don't feel you need anything set in stone. Being able to be spontaneous and respond to whatever moves the heart is one of the joys of the camino. After Sarria this is possible, but not as easily in bigger places.

This is my first Camino and I am walking alone, so I wanted to make sure I have a comfy bed/bathroom at the end of the day, and some places seem to already book out. I'm too old for the dorms - lol
But it sounds like it would be easy to find accommodations once I reach Sarria, so perhaps I should leave the rest of the walk to spontaneity.

 

[auburnfive]

Thank you Marbe2! I am planning to stay in Ponferrada for 2 nights before the walk. I was looking at Pedrafita, but I am doing luggage transfer, so I wasn't sure if they would deliver there. I will check that out, it looks like a really nice place to spend a night.

You will be able to get luggage transferred to Pedrafita

 

[Cayou]

Maria: Sarria is OK, it will be crowded and a huge surge of 100k pilgrims in the morning. If from Samos you go a few extra K's to Barbadelo there is a farmhouse Casa Nova run by a very nice family. Right on the Camino. There are animals, too if you like that. Dinner homemade, etc. EnSuite bath and a couple of rooms that share a bath in the hall. Been there 2x's and we love it. Phone is 34 98 218 7854. Enjoy your journey!
CASA NOVA DE RENTE ... On Trip Advisor for pics and reviews

 

[trecile]

Maria: Sarria is OK, it will be crowded and a huge surge of 100k pilgrims in the morning. If from Samos you go a few extra K's to Barbadelo there is a farmhouse Casa Nova run by a very nice family. Right on the Camino. There are animals, too if you like that. Dinner homemade, etc. EnSuite bath and a couple of rooms that share a bath in the hall. Been there 2x's and we love it. Phone is 34 98 218 7854. Enjoy your journey!

In Barbadelo there is the also the fantastic Casa Barbadelo. Definitely a 5 star albergue.

Camino de Santiago | Casa Barbadelo | Vilei

Pensión y albergue a pié del Camino de Santiago, justo a 3kms de Sarria por el Camino. Casa Barbadelo es el lugar perfecto para empezar tu Camino o descansar de una etapa anterior.

info647301.wixsite.com

 

[Walkerooni]

First of all, this is one of the loveliest sections of the CF, so enjoy! I started from SJPdP, but in this section I walked the first 3 stages you describe. Ponferrada would be a lot very place to spend a few days before you start. Alb. Roboleira in Fonfria was hands down my favourite stop! Upon leaving Samos, I too would give Sarria a miss and go a bit further. Then see how you feel. If you want to split up a few days into 2 shorter days as you have described do so, but if you feel strong and want to carry on, do that. It might give you an extra day to enjoy Santiago at the end. That is the only disadvantage to transporting pack—you lose that flexibility.

 

[wisepilgrim]

Once you get to Sarria you may decide to stay a bit before or a bit after the popular stage-ending points, in order to be out of sync with the crowd.
For example:
• Albergue Paloma y Lena or
Barbadelo (before and after Sarria)
• Villacha or Castromeijor/Gonzar (instead of Portomarin)
• Lestedo or San Xulian (instead of Palas de Rei)
• O Leboreiro or Boente (instead of Melide)
• Ribadiso or Castaneda (instead of Arzua)
• A Rua or Amenal (instead of O Pedrouzo)

FYI, Paloma y Leña is closed permanently as the owners have retired.

 

[Marbe2]

Thank you Marbe2! I am planning to stay in Ponferrada for 2 nights before the walk. I was looking at Pedrafita, but I am doing luggage transfer, so I wasn't sure if they would deliver there. I will check that out, it looks like a really nice place to spend a night.

Maria, YES, both Correos and Caminofacil will deliver luggage to Pedrafita do Cebriero.

If you want to walk to Fonfria, Albergue Roboleira is the place to stay! Great Pilgrim get together dinner. Has both private rooms and bunks.

Casa Barbadelo is a great place to stay others have already stated. It has good food and an outdoor pool. The bedrooms (private) are bare bones, large, but in need of a facelift.

During the pandemic Casa Nova de Rente was closed. i have stayed there as well. It has private rooms/ shared bath and supplies meals but if you are alone and desire to interact with people Casa barbadelo is a better choice.

We have walked from Portomarin to Palas de Rei. The last 15km is mostly pavement. My least favorite town from Ponferrada to SdC is Palas de Rei.
Lots of pilgrims split this day. I have not stayed at Hostel pension A Paso de Formiga but it is popular among many pilgrims. I have stayed at Rectory house Lestedo and Hosteria Calixtino. Both have nice rooms and decent food, but no shared accommodations. If you stayed at one of these three places, you could then, move on to Melide which is about 15km past Palas de Rei.

​

 

[JerryStroebele]

Maria, no one is ever too old to sleep in the dorms. Just be sure to ask for a lower bunk (cama baja) when you book. Buen Camino

 

[lt56ny]

would have liked to stay at O Cebreiro but everything is booked

Since you cannot find a place to sleep in O'Ceibreiro you may want to stay here:

Albergue La Escuela | Albergue de Peregrinos en Laguna de Castilla | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue La Escuela, en Laguna de Castilla: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

It is about 2.5k before O' Cebreiro. I stayed there last year in late November. I slept in the Albergue. It is a peaceful and lovely spot. The owners are great. They have a restaurant and the food was good. I doubt it would be any more difficult to get to than Fonfria. You could stay in Fonfria the next night. It is about 15K. If you don't want to travel that far on your first day you could stay in Hospital de Condesa. There is a pilgrim hostel there that has good reviews on Gronze. There is also Habitciones O Tear which of course is more expensive. It is very small but the two reviews were excellent. It would make for about a 10K day. Buen Camino

 

[bergmannfamily]

Thank you Marbe2! I am planning to stay in Ponferrada for 2 nights before the walk. I was looking at Pedrafita, but I am doing luggage transfer, so I wasn't sure if they would deliver there. I will check that out, it looks like a really nice place to spend a night.

We did luggage transfer using Correos. They delivered to all of our places even if they were 5-6 k off the route. When you put the destination for the day into their web-app it tells you which places they deliver to, but again they always delivered to all of our choices.

 

[Eddiebee]

I worked in an albergue in Ponferrada the first half of June this year and walked several stages the last half of June. The first day that you have planned is an easy level walk. You should enjoy it. The second day is more hilly but still not bad. Your third day starts with a long steep climb to O'Cebreiro (maybe the steepest climb on CF). it is followed by a fairly steep downhill climb to Fonfria. You might consider a horseback ride with Victor to get you to O'Cebreiro. The only negative is that the horse ride is from 9am to around 11am. That could leave you walking in some early afternoon heat. It was 90 degrees when I got to Fonfria. On the 4th day you should get something to eat in Triscastela. I did not find anything open between there and Samos. Likewise, I did not find anything open from Samos to Sarria. After Sarria it is crowded. booking ahead is not a bad thing.

Be careful of the heat and take enough water with you. I used a 2 liter bladder in a day pack and used the post office to transport my backpack. I am 75 and the last time that I walked CF I was only 70. I could tell a difference.

Buen Camino

 

[Tony Lenton]

Hello everyone,
I am a 71 year old women planning my first Camino. I am thinking of starting at Ponferrada and walk a couple of weeks, starting on August 30, 2022. I would have preferred walking later in the year when it is not as hot, but timing doesn't work.

Here is what I have tentatively planned:
Ponferrada to Villafranca - already have reservation
Villafranca to Las Herrerias - have reservation
Las Herrerias to Fonfria - I would have liked to stay at O Cebreiro but everything is booked, so have reservation at Fonfria
Fonfria to Samos - have reservation at Samos
Samos to Sarria
Sarria to Portomarin
Portomarin to Ventas de Naron
Ventas de Naron to Palais de Rei
Palais the Rei to Melide
Melide to Arzua
Arzua to O Pedrouzo
O Pedrouzo to Santiage de Copostela

I don't have reservations after Samos.
Is it worth to make a stop between Portomarin and Palais de Rei? I am already planning a stop between Palais de Rei and Arzua.

I am comfortable walking 10 -12 miles on local trails, but should be fine walking longer, starting early in the day. I also don't walk that far every day

Thank you so much for any recommendations.
Maria

I did that same route in March 2019 when I was 68! I followed your exact itinerary to Fonfria but then stopped at Sarria, Portomarin, Palas de Rei, Arzua, Lavacolla and then SdC. It was baking hot all the way but the the route was easily manageable. I booked accommodation ahead and met some great people. I also started early each morning and managed to arrive at most destinations in time for a late lunch. I was due to walk the whole Camino from SJPP the following year but COVID intervened.
I am sure you’ll have a great time however you break the journey down.
Ultreia!

 

[MariaE]

Maria: Sarria is OK, it will be crowded and a huge surge of 100k pilgrims in the morning. If from Samos you go a few extra K's to Barbadelo there is a farmhouse Casa Nova run by a very nice family. Right on the Camino. There are animals, too if you like that. Dinner homemade, etc. EnSuite bath and a couple of rooms that share a bath in the hall. Been there 2x's and we love it. Phone is 34 98 218 7854. Enjoy your journey!
CASA NOVA DE RENTE ... On Trip Advisor for pics and reviews

Thank you for the recommendation Cayou! I will definitely work around Sarria after all the recommendations here.

 

[MariaE]

FYI, Paloma y Leña is closed permanently as the owners have retired.

Thank you!

 

[MariaE]

First of all, this is one of the loveliest sections of the CF, so enjoy! I started from SJPdP, but in this section I walked the first 3 stages you describe. Ponferrada would be a lot very place to spend a few days before you start. Alb. Roboleira in Fonfria was hands down my favourite stop! Upon leaving Samos, I too would give Sarria a miss and go a bit further. Then see how you feel. If you want to split up a few days into 2 shorter days as you have described do so, but if you feel strong and want to carry on, do that. It might give you an extra day to enjoy Santiago at the end. That is the only disadvantage to transporting pack—you lose that flexibility.

Thank you Walkerooni! Actually, I just signed up with Correos and I will have some flexibility. Sure, I have to decide how I'll feel the next day , but it will be nice to travel with a day pack.

 

[MariaE]

Since you cannot find a place to sleep in O'Ceibreiro you may want to stay here:

Albergue La Escuela | Albergue de Peregrinos en Laguna de Castilla | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue La Escuela, en Laguna de Castilla: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

It is about 2.5k before O' Cebreiro. I stayed there last year in late November. I slept in the Albergue. It is a peaceful and lovely spot. The owners are great. They have a restaurant and the food was good. I doubt it would be any more difficult to get to than Fonfria. You could stay in Fonfria the next night. It is about 15K. If you don't want to travel that far on your first day you could stay in Hospital de Condesa. There is a pilgrim hostel there that has good reviews on Gronze. There is also Habitciones O Tear which of course is more expensive. It is very small but the two reviews were excellent. It would make for about a 10K day. Buen Camino

Thank you It45ny: great information!

 

[MariaE]

I worked in an albergue in Ponferrada the first half of June this year and walked several stages the last half of June. The first day that you have planned is an easy level walk. You should enjoy it. The second day is more hilly but still not bad. Your third day starts with a long steep climb to O'Cebreiro (maybe the steepest climb on CF). it is followed by a fairly steep downhill climb to Fonfria. You might consider a horseback ride with Victor to get you to O'Cebreiro. The only negative is that the horse ride is from 9am to around 11am. That could leave you walking in some early afternoon heat. It was 90 degrees when I got to Fonfria. On the 4th day you should get something to eat in Triscastela. I did not find anything open between there and Samos. Likewise, I did not find anything open from Samos to Sarria. After Sarria it is crowded. booking ahead is not a bad thing.

Be careful of the heat and take enough water with you. I used a 2 liter bladder in a day pack and used the post office to transport my backpack. I am 75 and the last time that I walked CF I was only 70. I could tell a difference.

Buen Camino

Thank you Eddiebee! I'm definitely concerned about the heat. I live close to the coast in Northern California and it very rarely gets to 90 degrees, and if it does, we all escape to the cold Pacific Ocean and pray for the fog to roll in. But yes, I will make sure and have lots of water with me, and food for the Samos walk. I am looking forward to the adventure, and hope I can still do it at 75 which is right around the corner.

 

[MariaE]

I did that same route in March 2019 when I was 68! I followed your exact itinerary to Fonfria but then stopped at Sarria, Portomarin, Palas de Rei, Arzua, Lavacolla and then SdC. It was baking hot all the way but the the route was easily manageable. I booked accommodation ahead and met some great people. I also started early each morning and managed to arrive at most destinations in time for a late lunch. I was due to walk the whole Camino from SJPP the following year but COVID intervened.
I am sure you’ll have a great time however you break the journey down.
Ultreia!

Thank you Tony, that's great to know. It sounds like the key is really to leave early in the morning.

 

[Tony Lenton]

Thank you Tony, that's great to know. It sounds like the key is really to leave early in the morning.

I walked with a friend from Canada and we are both early birds. We also love a long, late lunch like they favour in Spain so left early enough each morning to achieve that. The heat surprised us as it was early March. I walked the Ingles the previous year at the same time of year and it lashed with rain every day, apart from the day we had thick fog.

 

[CPURKS]

In Barbadelo there is the also the fantastic Casa Barbadelo. Definitely a 5 star albergue.

Camino de Santiago | Casa Barbadelo | Vilei

Pensión y albergue a pié del Camino de Santiago, justo a 3kms de Sarria por el Camino. Casa Barbadelo es el lugar perfecto para empezar tu Camino o descansar de una etapa anterior.

info647301.wixsite.com

Have to agree we stayed at Casa Barbadelo and they had a pool and excellent food, it was a lovely way to end the day.

 

[Dick & Kitty]

Hello everyone,
I am a 71 year old women planning my first Camino. I am thinking of starting at Ponferrada and walk a couple of weeks, starting on August 30, 2022. I would have preferred walking later in the year when it is not as hot, but timing doesn't work.

Here is what I have tentatively planned:
Ponferrada to Villafranca - already have reservation
Villafranca to Las Herrerias - have reservation
Las Herrerias to Fonfria - I would have liked to stay at O Cebreiro but everything is booked, so have reservation at Fonfria
Fonfria to Samos - have reservation at Samos
Samos to Sarria
Sarria to Portomarin
Portomarin to Ventas de Naron
Ventas de Naron to Palais de Rei
Palais the Rei to Melide
Melide to Arzua
Arzua to O Pedrouzo
O Pedrouzo to Santiage de Copostela

I don't have reservations after Samos.
Is it worth to make a stop between Portomarin and Palais de Rei? I am already planning a stop between Palais de Rei and Arzua.

I am comfortable walking 10 -12 miles on local trails, but should be fine walking longer, starting early in the day. I also don't walk that far every day

Thank you so much for any recommendations.
Maria

My husband and I walked from Astorga to Sarria in mid-August of last year (2021). (This was actually our last section of the Camino Frances since we began by walking from Sarria to Santiago in September 2015 and later decided to begin at the beginning.) My husband is 75, and I am 73. We are both fairly fit, but had never done any hiking before beginning the Camino. So, with that background, here are my thoughts about your planned camino. First, about walking from Portomarin to Palais de Rei--unless the weather is bad, I don't think you should have any problem walking the entire distance without making an interim stop. It was only our second day of walking ever, and we didn't have any problem with it. And once you get into Galicia, it should be much cooler. Spaniards told us that they go there on vacation in August to get away from the heat of the big cities. We really liked the place we stayed in Palais de Rei--Casa Curro--a pension run by a husband and wife team. They were truly lovely people, and the breakfast was very good. They even gave us a brown bag of snacks to take with us! Of course, that was 2015. Things could have changed. I would be more worried about the walk from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. That is a long stretch that could be hot and ends with an extended climb. In fact, we planned to take a bus for the last portion of that walk, but got a ride with a Spanish couple who were driving to Sarria (a long, but nice story). Finally, enjoy your camino! It's the adventure of a lifetime!

Buen Camino!
Kitty & Dick

 

[trecile]

Have to agree we stayed at Casa Barbadelo and they had a pool and excellent food, it was a lovely way to end the day.

I had Galician style pulpo for the first time at Casa Barbadelo, and it remains the best pulpo that I've had on the Camino.

Plus in one of their back rooms they have an incredible display of vintage sewing machines, typewriters and cameras.

 

[MariaE]

My husband and I walked from Astorga to Sarria in mid-August of last year (2021). (This was actually our last section of the Camino Frances since we began by walking from Sarria to Santiago in September 2015 and later decided to begin at the beginning.) My husband is 75, and I am 73. We are both fairly fit, but had never done any hiking before beginning the Camino. So, with that background, here are my thoughts about your planned camino. First, about walking from Portomarin to Palais de Rei--unless the weather is bad, I don't think you should have any problem walking the entire distance without making an interim stop. It was only our second day of walking ever, and we didn't have any problem with it. And once you get into Galicia, it should be much cooler. Spaniards told us that they go there on vacation in August to get away from the heat of the big cities. We really liked the place we stayed in Palais de Rei--Casa Curro--a pension run by a husband and wife team. They were truly lovely people, and the breakfast was very good. They even gave us a brown bag of snacks to take with us! Of course, that was 2015. Things could have changed. I would be more worried about the walk from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. That is a long stretch that could be hot and ends with an extended climb. In fact, we planned to take a bus for the last portion of that walk, but got a ride with a Spanish couple who were driving to Sarria (a long, but nice story). Finally, enjoy your camino! It's the adventure of a lifetime!

Buen Camino!
Kitty & Dick

Thank you Dick & Kitty! Wow, that's a long way from Astorga to Sarria, very impressive. Thank you for your comments on the Portomarin to Palais de Rei stretch, I would rather not make an extra stop and instead have more time in Santiago at the end. I also got some other great recommendations for places to stay along the way, so this is very helpful.
Good for you to complete the entire Camino Frances. And Buen Camino to you too - maybe you're already thinking about another route

 

[MariaE]

I had Galician style pulpo for the first time at Casa Barbadelo, and it remains the best pulpo that I've had on the Camino.

Plus in one of their back rooms they have an incredible display of vintage sewing machines, typewriters and cameras.
View attachment 129440

I am looking forward to that pulpo, for sure. Don't know what the Galician style will taste like, but I'm sure I'll love it.
Love the vintage collection.

 

[RJ in CA]

When we walked in 2019 we walked from Portomarin to Lestedo it is about 2 or 3km before Palais de Rei. The area has a variety of accommodations in a country setting. We stayed at Rectoral De Lestedo. At the time is was really inexpensive; today it is more then double, but it was one of our favorite places on the Camino.

We were happy that we stopped in Lestedo because the hills out of Portomarin were strenuous so we decided not to walk as far that stage. The walk from Lestedo to Melide was a bit longer but not as strenuous.

 

[MariaE]

It looks like so many of the places are already booked. The Casa Barbadelo has 1 bunk in a mixed dormitory left, that's it. Almost every place in Sarria is booked. I guess it will be a very very busy September, and I may need to plan more ahead than I had planned to do.

 

[trecile]

It looks like so many of the places are already booked. The Casa Barbadelo has 1 bunk in a mixed dormitory left, that's it. Almost every place in Sarria is booked. I guess it will be a very very busy September, and I may need to plan more ahead than I had planned to do.

Did you contact Casa Barbadelo directly, or are you looking on booking.com? When I stayed there in 2017 they had no availability on booking.com, but by calling them directly three of us were able to get beds.

 

[Marbe2]

Did you contact Casa Barbadelo directly, or are you looking on booking.com? When I stayed there in 2017 they had no availability on booking.com, but by calling them directly three of us were able to get beds.

If you are looking for private rooms in September I would encourage you to book ahead as from Sarria on private accommodations will be tight.

 

[ScorpioGirl22]

Hello everyone,
I am a 71 year old women planning my first Camino. I am thinking of starting at Ponferrada and walk a couple of weeks, starting on August 30, 2022. I would have preferred walking later in the year when it is not as hot, but timing doesn't work.

Here is what I have tentatively planned:
Ponferrada to Villafranca - already have reservation
Villafranca to Las Herrerias - have reservation
Las Herrerias to Fonfria - I would have liked to stay at O Cebreiro but everything is booked, so have reservation at Fonfria
Fonfria to Samos - have reservation at Samos
Samos to Sarria
Sarria to Portomarin
Portomarin to Ventas de Naron
Ventas de Naron to Palais de Rei
Palais the Rei to Melide
Melide to Arzua
Arzua to O Pedrouzo
O Pedrouzo to Santiage de Copostela

I don't have reservations after Samos.
Is it worth to make a stop between Portomarin and Palais de Rei? I am already planning a stop between Palais de Rei and Arzua.

I am comfortable walking 10 -12 miles on local trails, but should be fine walking longer, starting early in the day. I also don't walk that far every day

Thank you so much for any recommendations.
Maria

Following as I am planning to walk this portion next spring.

 

[MargotM]

MariaE, I'm sorry it's taken me so long to post. My friend and I, both in our 50s, did this same route in late April/early May. Cold enough in the beginning that there was snow on the ground in O Cebreiro. We did the route in 10 days and definitely slowed down after Sarria to avoid the crowds as best we could. (Evidently that time of year is when a LOT of high school students hike to Santiago from Sarria with chaperones. At least 150 total.) While I can't say how long it will take you, I'd like to make some lodging suggestions.....

La Faba (if you want to go past Las Herreirias) : Albergue de la Faba (dormitorio- 8 Euros). Cleanest place we stayed in and had hot water. No meals but there's a kitchen, so just eat at Tito's. I know you're not keen on these kind of set ups but it was a delight. Church on property, idyllic, right before entry to Galicia.

Tricastela -- private room at Centro Xacobeo. Wonderful! Restaurant/beer garden run by the same people was delicious.

Portomarin -- Casa San Nicolas. Best shower we saw on the Camino! Beautiful rooms and terrace outside.

Arzua -- Hotel 1930. You're worth it. Eat at the pizzeria in town that only serves pizza, no salads, etc. Trust us! Great food, ambience, artwork, and easily one of the best pizzas I've ever had.

As you might have figured out, one of us pilgrims wanted only private rooms. Yet my friend was over the moon about the dormitorio. The slog from Villafranca to our intended destination of O Cebreiro was simply too much because of the rain and endless, ankle-deep mud. There were no beds at Tito's in La Faba, so the dormitorio it was for us. That's when we started booking one day ahead or time, usually the night before when we were back from dinner. We used booking.com a bit, but only booked through them when absolutely necessary; we would contact the hotel directly. WhatsApp was helpful doing that, too, so consider downloading that. (Basically European texting, free and easy to use.)

We only sent our bags ahead twice (my friend was in pain and needed a break; I only did it for solidarity purposes) so I can't speak to that. Palais de Rei was my least favorite stop but OK. Ponferrada not a spectacular town (sorry to all) but a very good starting point. We were also just getting our bearings so that may have colored our take on it. I hope this helps and wish you the very best. You can do it!!!

 

[Dick & Kitty]

MariaE, I'm sorry it's taken me so long to post. My friend and I, both in our 50s, did this same route in late April/early May. Cold enough in the beginning that there was snow on the ground in O Cebreiro. We did the route in 10 days and definitely slowed down after Sarria to avoid the crowds as best we could. (Evidently that time of year is when a LOT of high school students hike to Santiago from Sarria with chaperones. At least 150 total.) While I can't say how long it will take you, I'd like to make some lodging suggestions.....

La Faba (if you want to go past Las Herreirias) : Albergue de la Faba (dormitorio- 8 Euros). Cleanest place we stayed in and had hot water. No meals but there's a kitchen, so just eat at Tito's. I know you're not keen on these kind of set ups but it was a delight. Church on property, idyllic, right before entry to Galicia.

Tricastela -- private room at Centro Xacobeo. Wonderful! Restaurant/beer garden run by the same people was delicious.

Portomarin -- Casa San Nicolas. Best shower we saw on the Camino! Beautiful rooms and terrace outside.

Arzua -- Hotel 1930. You're worth it. Eat at the pizzeria in town that only serves pizza, no salads, etc. Trust us! Great food, ambience, artwork, and easily one of the best pizzas I've ever had.

As you might have figured out, one of us pilgrims wanted only private rooms. Yet my friend was over the moon about the dormitorio. The slog from Villafranca to our intended destination of O Cebreiro was simply too much because of the rain and endless, ankle-deep mud. There were no beds at Tito's in La Faba, so the dormitorio it was for us. That's when we started booking one day ahead or time, usually the night before when we were back from dinner. We used booking.com a bit, but only booked through them when absolutely necessary; we would contact the hotel directly. WhatsApp was helpful doing that, too, so consider downloading that. (Basically European texting, free and easy to use.)

We only sent our bags ahead twice (my friend was in pain and needed a break; I only did it for solidarity purposes) so I can't speak to that. Palais de Rei was my least favorite stop but OK. Ponferrada not a spectacular town (sorry to all) but a very good starting point. We were also just getting our bearings so that may have colored our take on it. I hope this helps and wish you the very best. You can do it!!!

Yes, indeed, the pizza in Arzua was great!

 

[SeñorJacques]

Since you cannot find a place to sleep in O'Ceibreiro you may want to stay here:

Albergue La Escuela | Albergue de Peregrinos en Laguna de Castilla | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue La Escuela, en Laguna de Castilla: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

It is about 2.5k before O' Cebreiro. I stayed there last year in late November. I slept in the Albergue. It is a peaceful and lovely spot. The owners are great. They have a restaurant and the food was good. I doubt it would be any more difficult to get to than Fonfria. You could stay in Fonfria the next night. It is about 15K. If you don't want to travel that far on your first day you could stay in Hospital de Condesa. There is a pilgrim hostel there that has good reviews on Gronze. There is also Habitciones O Tear which of course is more expensive. It is very small but the two reviews were excellent. It would make for about a 10K day. Buen Camino

Another thumbs up for La Escuela. One of the few albergues on my recent CF (of which more later) that I actually enjoyed staying in. Peaceful and clean, and the (short) walk to O Cebreiro the next morning as the sun was rising was one of the most magical times of my Camino.

And on the same lines of subjective experiences: are you really set on spending two nights in Ponferrada? I found it to be one of the least appealing towns I spent an overnight in and I couldn't wait to leave in the morning. Instead I'd consider starting in and spending an extra night in Villafranca, which I thought was incredibly charming and beautiful.

 

[MariaE]

MariaE, I'm sorry it's taken me so long to post. My friend and I, both in our 50s, did this same route in late April/early May. Cold enough in the beginning that there was snow on the ground in O Cebreiro. We did the route in 10 days and definitely slowed down after Sarria to avoid the crowds as best we could. (Evidently that time of year is when a LOT of high school students hike to Santiago from Sarria with chaperones. At least 150 total.) While I can't say how long it will take you, I'd like to make some lodging suggestions.....

La Faba (if you want to go past Las Herreirias) : Albergue de la Faba (dormitorio- 8 Euros). Cleanest place we stayed in and had hot water. No meals but there's a kitchen, so just eat at Tito's. I know you're not keen on these kind of set ups but it was a delight. Church on property, idyllic, right before entry to Galicia.

Tricastela -- private room at Centro Xacobeo. Wonderful! Restaurant/beer garden run by the same people was delicious.

Portomarin -- Casa San Nicolas. Best shower we saw on the Camino! Beautiful rooms and terrace outside.

Arzua -- Hotel 1930. You're worth it. Eat at the pizzeria in town that only serves pizza, no salads, etc. Trust us! Great food, ambience, artwork, and easily one of the best pizzas I've ever had.

As you might have figured out, one of us pilgrims wanted only private rooms. Yet my friend was over the moon about the dormitorio. The slog from Villafranca to our intended destination of O Cebreiro was simply too much because of the rain and endless, ankle-deep mud. There were no beds at Tito's in La Faba, so the dormitorio it was for us. That's when we started booking one day ahead or time, usually the night before when we were back from dinner. We used booking.com a bit, but only booked through them when absolutely necessary; we would contact the hotel directly. WhatsApp was helpful doing that, too, so consider downloading that. (Basically European texting, free and easy to use.)

We only sent our bags ahead twice (my friend was in pain and needed a break; I only did it for solidarity purposes) so I can't speak to that. Palais de Rei was my least favorite stop but OK. Ponferrada not a spectacular town (sorry to all) but a very good starting point. We were also just getting our bearings so that may have colored our take on it. I hope this helps and wish you the very best. You can do it!!!

Hello MargotM, and thank you for your response. I thought that I had responded but must have missed the hit post reply button, because I don't see it anywhere.
I am getting a little more comfortable to possibly trying out a dormitory, but in the meantime I did actually book the Hotel 1930, it's too nice not to splurge a little. I will look into your other suggestions as well, and it sounds like the pizza is not to be missed, so that's on my list
I am really looking forward to this trip. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my thread.
Everyone has been so nice and generous with their advise.
Maria