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Which route to take after Figeac?

M&M from OZ

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Francés in May 2023 - SJPP to CdS
Hi fellow pilgrims.

We will be walking the Via Podiensis from Le Puy-en-Velay in Sep/Oct this year and are in the process of planning our route and stages. We see there are three route variants following Figeac (our reference book is Camino de Santiago - Via Podiensis by Dave Whitson published by Cicerone):

- The GR65
- Célé Valley
- Rocamdour

We seek your wise guidance on which of these to take. We are quite fit and completed the CF last year from SJPP to CdS. Our question we ask of you is: If you only had one chance to do the Via Podiensis "Which of the three choices is the one you consider to provide the best experience?" Any other pointers or observations would also be welcome.

Many thanks,
M&M from OZ
 
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sunflowers said:
Hello MnM, alas I am not here to offer some gems or pointers; Just that I am pondering the very same thing! I think it is a tough choice as possibly all routes have highlights and wonders....
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Keep an eye out for responses, hopefully we get some good advice.
 
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Hey there. I’ve walked both the usual path and the Cele Valley Variant. Enjoyed both very much. Re Rocamadour, I have visited the town but I haven't walked the variant, so I can’t comment on that.

On the basis of ‘if you only had one chance’, of the two I’ve walked, I’d choose the Cele Valley variant for its spectacular scenery, the opportunity to visit Grotte de Pêch Merle, the walk along the Chemin de Halage (towpath) en route to an overnight stay in St Cirq Lapopie, walking back along the towpath the next day.

Others may come along who’ve walked the Rocamadour as well, including @BlackRocker57 who has walked the Le Puy Way many times and both variants, more than once from memory.

Bon chemin.

PS. If you’d like to see my Find Penguins blog of the Cele Variant, I can send to you by private message.
 
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I took the Célé variant 3 years ago, and I have discussed with others:
- Rocamadour should be your choice if you like shrines. Notice that the "true" Rocamadour variant does not end at Cahors, but at La Romieu. I heard that it is peaceful there.
- Célé variant is a bit demanding (the way goes down, cross the river, then go up several times) but very nice: quiet, wild, beautiful sceneries. You even can rent a canoe to go down a part of the river. The municipal gite in Espagnac-Ste Eulalie is very nice (book the dinner !). After reaching the Lot, you can cross it on a railway bridge (without trains !). At Cabrerets, you have the option to make a detour to St Cirq Lapopie, a marvellous village, via the Chemin de Halage, very nice also. Notice that from there following the Lot until Cahors could be considered as a little boring...
- Usual path have good reputation too. You will cross the village of Cajarc, which seems asleep for years... then Limogne which is also quite nice, then the Causse du Quercy.
In Cahors, Le Relais des Jacobins used to be a good choice to spend a night.

PS: @Pelerina is right about Pech Merle cave, but I do not mention it because it is the real cave (not a replica like Lascaux or Chauvet): the more visitors, the more damage...
 

I agree. The gite municipale in Espagnac is a wonderful place - great location and excellent dinner. We had a room in the tower.

As per post #4, we took the detour. After an afternoon and overnight in Saint Cirq we retraced our steps along the Chemin de Halage - walking about 18 kms to St Gery (about 1.5 kms off the path) where we had lunch and took the bus into Cahors. We walked the Cele in early July - and I was not keen on a long hot walk into Cahors.
 
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Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Thanks, that’s great info. Yep, it would be good to have your blog on the Cèlè Variant. Thanks again, M&M
 
M&M from OZ said:
Thanks, that’s great info. Yep, it would be good to have your blog on the Cèlè Variant. Thanks again, M&M
Click to expand...
No problem, I will send it to you via private message - if you're not familiar - you will see a red notification in the envelope symbol top right of tool bar.

PS I've just sent it.
 
Perhaps the best option is to take the Célé variant, got to visit St Cirq-Lapopie, and then join the usual path via Concots and Varaire.
I do not know about the markup there, but if you download a smartphone app like mapy.cz, the path is shown.
 
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The célé route typically takes a day longer than the gr65, but is much more scenic.
Also more up and down, but worth it.
I’ve walked it 3 times.
I’ll post some thoughts on it later when i have time.
 
Do you mind staying in some slightly more expensive accommodation or only budget?
 
I’m sure that whichever route you choose, you’ll have a fabulous Camino. I was in your position last year and settled on the Cele Valley varient with a rest day where I took a train to Rocammadour. I can’t recommend this approach enough! The Cele is spectacular, and the rest day spent at Roccamadour was more than ample to experience the shrines.

If you choose to combine the Cele and Roccamadour, consider catching the first train of the day from Figeac to Roccamadour . You will miss the crowds and have the site almost entirely to yourself. All the chapels were open so I was able to see everything before the tourist busses rolled in. I caught an early afternoon train to Figeac that afternoon and continued my Camino the next next day. It was a rest day well spent!
 
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kayagee66 said:
The célé route typically takes a day longer than the gr65, but is much more scenic.
Also more up and down, but worth it.
I’ve walked it 3 times.
I’ll post some thoughts on it later when i have time.
Click to expand...
We met a few (though not many) along the path. As I recall they were taking from 4 and up to 7 days. With a bit of planning it's possible to break things up according to your needs / preferences. We had plenty of time as it was a stand alone walk for us. Our stages were:

1. Figeac to Espagnac, 27 kms
2. Espagnac to Le Picarel, Chambre d'hote - just after Marcilhac-Sur-Cele
3. Le Picarel to Cabrerets - 17 kms
4. Cabrerets to Saint Cirq Lapopie - 10. 5 kms (with a visit and guided tour of Grotte du Pech-Merle in the morning, arriving in St Cirq in time for a late lunch)
5. Saint Cirq la Popie (retracing our steps along the fabulous Chemin de Halage for first few kms, then rejoined the main path and walked to St Gery - 18 kms, then bus to Cahors.

We were very happy with this itinerary. Though the distances were shorter than our usual, other than Day 1, it was challenging in parts.

We had an e-copy of the English Cicerone Guide for the Chemin du Puy (which includes Cele Valley and Rocamadour variants) by Dave Whitson (thank you @Dave) We didn't need the book for navigation but it was useful for history, geography, elevation profiles, accommodation and other services. And for notes on fun diversions such as scrambling up to the old railway bridge near Bouziès, en route to the Chemin de Halage and Saint Cirq. Bon chemin.
 
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For more detailed discussion on each variant, I recommend listening to Dave Whitson's podcast "The Camino Podcast," if you haven't already. Episodes 66 and 68 hone in on the options, but his 10-part series on the Le Puy covers it section by section and is worth listening to. His podcast has been my go-to entertainment on my training walks for the past few months and I'm just finishing up his series on the Le Puy -- very informative and entertaining.
 
I know others who've done the same and very happy with that. Sounds like a great approach to me.
 
Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
We walked from Le Puy last September. We knew we would not walk this way again, so we did a lot of research. We spent two nights in Figeac, enjoying the old city there and taking the bus to and from Roccamadeur the next day. It was picture perfect weather and we had plenty of up and down walking at this amazing site. We then walked the Cele Variant. Saint-Circ-Lapopie was also a place we knew we had to see.

We did not want to miss anything...and we didn't. Beauty and history everywhere. And great cuisine!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Cirq-Lapopie​

 
When I was at Figeac in 2017, I decided to walk three days to Rocamadur
Figeac - Lacapelle Marival 26km 600m up 440m down
Lacapelle Marival - Gramat 25km 245m up 330m down
Gramat - Rocamadour 14km 215m up 350m down.
did spend one night in Rocamadour and toke the train back to Figeac the next morning. There I started the
GR651->Vallée du le Célé variant and did it in five days to Cahors.
I did miss the Grotte de Pêch Merle (Timeframe didn't match) but I did the detour to St Cirq Lapopie and it was worth it.
You will find detailed routing informations on my Website also some pictures to give you an idea what you will see.
 
I’m interviewed on episode 71.
It’s the only episode i haven’t listened to.
 
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G'day,
Like others I will strongly recommend the Célé Valley route. The entire walk is great but the thing that is not to be missed is the caves at Peche Merl, a 1 km or so north of Cabrerets. It is a remarkable experience to come face-to-face with 30,000 year old art. I've been told it is one of the very few cave art sites in the world still open to the public. If you're interested, here are some considerations:

1. Peche Merl limits the number of people who can enter the caves each day to mitigate any big changes in temperature or air quality (CO2 concentrations) which might affect the paintings. This means you must book tickets months in advance. You can to this on their website (https://en.pechmerle.com/) -- price is about Eu 15 / person and the booking is for a specific tour on a specific day. This then means you need to be in Cabrerets the night before the tour. (There are good accommodations available at the Hotel des Grottes, which you also should book in advance as it is one of the few places in the area that has very easy walking access to the caves. The restaurant at the hotel is very good, as well.

2. If you're going visit the caves, I'll offer another suggestion. Spend the night before Cabrertes in Marcilhac-sur-Célé at the Gite de Galance -- also a nice accommodation with a good communal dinner on offer. The owners of the gite can arrange for you to rent kayaks the next day and you can proceed from Marcilhac to Cabrerets on the river. It takes about 4-5 hours. The kayak rental outfit will transport your pack to Cabrerets and will pick up the kayaks when you arrive there. The cost was about Eu 25 per person in 2019. It is a nice break from walking and a very pleasant way to spend the day. If you book the Gite de Galance in advance you should inquire about the whether the kayak rentals are still in business.

I'll leave it to others to describe the other wonderful spots along the Célé Valley route. There are good maps available of the Variante at:


A closing note: if you can get an early time to tour the caves at Peche Merl (first tour is at 10:00), it is still possible to make progress along the Camino that day. We finished at Peche Merl just before noon and walked on to Pasturat. (If you get an afternoon tour it's probably best to spend the night again at Cabrerets or some other village nearby, say Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.

With a good map, like the ones on the Alltrails website or the electronic maps you can download to your phone, you can "bushwhack" your way from Cabrerets to Pasturat without back tracking to Cabrerets and walking along the river. You can radically shorted the route by heading east out of Peche Merl along a dirt road toward Prat d'Alban. There you strike out to the SW on small pathways through the woods and eventually find your way down to the Lot River to cross at the bridge just upstream of Saint-Géry. I would strongly recommend a good map and phone GPS if you're going to do this walkabout.

In Pasturat, Le Relais du Pasturat is a nice place to stay. (Email: gitescharazac@hotmail.com €35 demi-pension (2019), Anne Marie Charazac, owner). The dinner was great.
 
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John Gilliland said:
Can you leave your backpacks there at Pech Merle to tour the caves?
Click to expand...
When we were there last year, we asked the staff and were able to leave our backpacks. From memory, it was not in a secure area, just to the side of the ‘gift shop’ counter. Others had left bags too. We were not concerned.

We stayed the previous night in Cabrerets, had a leisurely breakfast and were at Pech Merle for the first tour - the centre opened at 9.30am, an introductory talk at 9.45 and then the tour from 10-11. Most of the tours are in French but, as mentioned above, there are some English speaking tours. When you book tickets you can see which tours are in English. We wanted to go on the first tour of the day, and then keep walking. On that day, the first tour was in French. My French wasn't up to the task in terms of the commentary but it didn't matter. They gave me an English language booklet to read and I could take with me into the caves. So if the dates/times of the English language tours don’t suit all is not lost. The tour was finished by about 11am and then we continued on to Saint Cirq Lapopie along the fabulous Chemin de Halage. A memorable day.
 
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kayagee66 said:
The célé route typically takes a day longer than the gr65, but is much more scenic.
Also more up and down, but worth it.
I’ve walked it 3 times.
I’ll post some thoughts on it later when i have time.
Click to expand...
Hi, that's good info, thanks and would appreciate any additional info if you have time.
 
That's really good info. We are very interested in pre-history and will definitely make a point t of seeing the cave art. Many thanks for putting this together, it will be very useful in our planning.
 
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Probably my favourite way of walking the Célé route is this. It does take more days, but is more relaxed.
However you walk it, it is a great route.
Figeac to Beduer.
Beduer to Brengues.
Brengues to Marcilhac ( accommodation Le Picarel, past Marcilhac )
Marcilhac to Cabrerets (Hotel des Grottes de Peche Merle, is very nice, has a pool, a good public restaurant above and alongside the river. There is other good accommodation in town)

Visit Peche Merle in the late morning, you can buy a ticket for an English tour online if you want, it can and does sell out, go for a French tour if that’s all they have, it’s well worth a visit. Then after a shortish walk.

Cabrerets to Bouzies 2 nights (Hotel Les Falaises, has a pool and nice restaurant)
On 2nd day at Bouzies, rent a kayak in the morning, get driven upriver and paddle downstream back to Bouzies, maybe take a picnic with you and stop on the way, in the afternoon walk to St Cirq and back. Very nice walk.
Bouzies to Bears (stay at Rives D’Olt, or at the hotel in Vers, Vers is a short walk across the bridge from Bears, on the other side of the river, the hotel there has a pool.
Bears/Vers to Cahors, after a short while there is a fairly flat way to Cahors pretty much following the river.
If you want to kayak at Bouzies you can book it on your way into Bouzies for the next morning, the rental place is along the road into town, but turn left away from town to get to it.
It can get very hot in summer and September. Having a pool feels like a real luxury. There are various places to swim in the river along the way, some small river beaches. Ones i know of are at the campsite at Brengues, and at Cabrerets.
 
A very good quicker route i’ve done before is
Figeac
Espagnac
Marcilhac
Cabrerets
St Cirq
Pasturat (or Bears/Vers if you want to get a bit further ahead)
Cahors.
I book ahead on the Célé, there isn’t a great deal of accommodation, and i have missed out on places even booking early.
 
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I walked the Via Podiensis to Auvillar, just past Moissac, and only booked one day in advance the whole way in 2018. I loved walking the Cele variant, and also chose to spend two nights in Figeac so my two friends and I could take a train to Rocamadour for the day, which I highly recommend if you have no extra time to walk there.
 
Yes i have plans to go to Rocamadour next time i’m in Figeac.
I also booked 1 (or 2) days ahead on the Podiensis. But it does seem busier in the last couple of years. I’m sure it can still be done though. Depends on the time of year, and if you are walking solo.
On the Célé route i would book ahead.
 
Thanks, it’s good to know suggested stops rather than making mistakes. We are going to book ahead too. Already finding some places are closed in October so booking takes away the risk.
 
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I walked with two friends in the month of May 2018. I did wonder from your post if things have gotten busier; apparently so. I only had "The Lightfoot1 Guide to the Via Podiensis" for my planning and gite options "back then". I'm sure more options are available now.
 
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As someone else mentioned - take a day trip from Figeac to Rocamadour and return. We asked about this in the Tourist Office in Figeac (in 2009). They made a phone call for us to 'Taxi Pat' to meet us at the train station in Rocamadour (I think). We took an early train from Figeac to Rocamadour and were met and driven to Rocamadour (at the top). We then walked down to the middle and lower levels of Rocamadour to meet Taxi Pat at he bottom exit (as prearranged). She then drove us back to the train station for a return trip to Figeac. Highly recommended. Buen camino.
 
I don't recall a very long walk to Rocamadour after getting off the train from Figeac, and back to the station later in the day.
We also enjoyed the middle and lower levels and had a nice lunch on an outdoor terrace overlooking the valley.
 
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Sounds a good plan.
 
I have walked all of the variantes, including the GR651 Voie du Célé and the GR6/46 Voie de Rocamadour ... GR651 Voie du Célé is magnificent with dramatic scenery and a good number of ups and downs; GR6 Voie de Rocamadour is more gentle but also dramatically beautiful in its own way [lots of variety] and the entry into Rocamadour from Gramat and the Moulin de Saut is unforgettable ... a toss-up for me but if you’re walking for the first time I would probably opt for the Célé variante
 
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Camino Preparation Guide
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I am very interested on your Penguins would be very happy, if you could send it to me too! I will Start the Le Puy in May….thank you! Greetings, Monja
 
monja said:
I am very interested on your Penguins would be very happy, if you could send it to me too! I will Start the Le Puy in May….thank you! Greetings, Monja
Click to expand...
Hi Monja -- I've just sent you the link via a PM. It's just the Cele Valley Variant, which we walked in July 2023 as a stand alone walk. I didn't send you my blog from Le Puy - as it's almost 10 years old now.

Bon chemin.
 
Pelerina said:
No problem, I will send it to you via private message - if you're not familiar - you will see a red notification in the envelope symbol top right of tool bar.

PS I've just sent it.
Click to expand...
Hi Pelerina,
Do you mind sending me your blog re Célé Valley variant.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Pelerina said:
Hi Monja -- I've just sent you the link via a PM. It's just the Cele Valley Variant, which we walked in July 2023 as a stand alone walk. I didn't send you my blog from Le Puy - as it's almost 10 years old now.

Bon chemin.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much!
I enjoyed your Blog!
It looks beautiful. I think i will walk this Route too!
 
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