G'day,
Like others I will strongly recommend the Célé Valley route. The entire walk is great but the thing that is
not to be missed is the caves at Peche Merl, a 1 km or so north of Cabrerets. It is a remarkable experience to come face-to-face with 30,000 year old art. I've been told it is one of the very few cave art sites in the world still open to the public. If you're interested, here are some considerations:
1. Peche Merl limits the number of people who can enter the caves each day to mitigate any big changes in temperature or air quality (CO2 concentrations) which might affect the paintings. This means you must book tickets months in advance. You can to this on their website (
https://en.pechmerle.com/) -- price is about Eu 15 / person and the booking is for a specific tour on a specific day. This then means you need to be in Cabrerets the night before the tour. (There are good accommodations available at the Hotel des Grottes, which you also should book in advance as it is one of the few places in the area that has very easy walking access to the caves. The restaurant at the hotel is very good, as well.
2. If you're going visit the caves, I'll offer another suggestion. Spend the night before Cabrertes in Marcilhac-sur-Célé at the Gite de Galance -- also a nice accommodation with a good communal dinner on offer. The owners of the gite can arrange for you to rent kayaks the next day and you can proceed from Marcilhac to Cabrerets on the river. It takes about 4-5 hours. The kayak rental outfit will transport your pack to Cabrerets and will pick up the kayaks when you arrive there. The cost was about Eu 25 per person in 2019. It is a nice break from walking and a very pleasant way to spend the day. If you book the Gite de Galance in advance you should inquire about the whether the kayak rentals are still in business.
I'll leave it to others to describe the other wonderful spots along the Célé Valley route. There are good maps available of the Variante at:
A closing note: if you can get an early time to tour the caves at Peche Merl (first tour is at 10:00), it is still possible to make progress along the Camino that day. We finished at Peche Merl just before noon and walked on to Pasturat. (If you get an afternoon tour it's probably best to spend the night again at Cabrerets or some other village nearby, say Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
With a good map, like the ones on the Alltrails website or the electronic maps you can download to your phone, you can "bushwhack" your way from Cabrerets to Pasturat without back tracking to Cabrerets and walking along the river. You can radically shorted the route by heading east out of Peche Merl along a dirt road toward Prat d'Alban. There you strike out to the SW on small pathways through the woods and eventually find your way down to the Lot River to cross at the bridge just upstream of Saint-Géry. I would strongly recommend a good map and phone GPS if you're going to do this walkabout.
In Pasturat, Le Relais du Pasturat is a nice place to stay. (Email:
gitescharazac@hotmail.com €35 demi-pension (2019), Anne Marie Charazac, owner). The dinner was great.