West Highland Way compared to Camino Frances/Portuguese

[TonyC]

My wife and I are from the UK and have walked the Camino Frances from St Jean twice and the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon once. We carried all our stuff for the whole distance on each occasion. We did not find any part of the trails too arduous at any point.

We are currently planning to walk the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland in a few months time. Having read several rather conflicting reports on the difficulties of this route we are confused.

Having met several fellow pilgrims on the Camino who had previously walked the WHW I'm seeking advice, if possible, from fellow pilgrims on the relative difficulties of the Camino versus the WHW.

Our background:- We are both seniors, I'm 80 and my wife is a few years younger, but consider ourselves quite fit having easily completed a 150 mile (240kms) backpacking hike last summer.

 

[Tincatinker]

The terrain will occasionally be more of a challenge than on the Camino routes but the biggest challenge will be accommodation. If you’re prepared to carry tentage and wild camp, subject to some seasonal restrictions, you’ll be fine. Otherwise start booking now.

 

[Bradypus]

If you can handle the descent to Molinaseca on the paths on the Camino Frances then there shouldn't be anything too daunting on the WHW by way of walking surfaces. As @Tincatinker says accommodation is the biggest difference. Wild camping is legal and if you can take the weight and bulk of camping gear it is a good option. My own big hesitation about a summer on the WHW is midges - absolutely appalling in summer months. And I grew up not that far from the path!

 

[TonyC]

Thanks for the advice.

I realise now that I forgot to mention that we were planning on using an agency to arrange accommodation and bag transfer along the route. Our days camping days are over. We've been there and done that stuff.

 

[Tincatinker]

In which case all you need is a midge net and a bottle of Bunnahabhain

 

[Bradypus]

In which case all you need is a midge net and a bottle of Bunnahabhain

Which is a big improvement on orujo...

 

[TonyC]

In which case all you need is a midge net and a bottle of Bunnahabhain

The best advice I've had in a long while.

 

[Kirkie]

There are other forum members who have experience of walking the WHW, I just have lived in the wings of it. Midges? Look them up. I would love to do it, to be honest, but it wIll not be this year.

 

[Bradypus]

Midges? Look them up. I would love to do it, to be honest, but it wIll not be this year.

Sound quality is very dodgy - an old low-res recording - but a fun song about 'Scotland's Curse' from Alistair Reid

Wayback Machine

 

[Arctic_Alex]

My wife and I are from the UK and have walked the Camino Frances from St Jean twice and the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon once. We carried all our stuff for the whole distance on each occasion. We did not find any part of the trails too arduous at any point.

We are currently planning to walk the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland in a few months time. Having read several rather conflicting reports on the difficulties of this route we are confused.

Having met several fellow pilgrims on the Camino who had previously walked the WHW I'm seeking advice, if possible, from fellow pilgrims on the relative difficulties of the Camino versus the WHW.

Our background:- We are both seniors, I'm 80 and my wife is a few years younger, but consider ourselves quite fit having easily completed a 150 mile (240kms) backpacking hike last summer.

I walked both the Francés and the WHW, even at the same time of the year (April/May, no midges on either of them) ... but 22 years apart!

So my judgement might be impaired a bit by me being much fitter at 25 than at 47 On the other hand I walked the WHW that time with heavy expedition camping gear and on the Francés I only had my tiny backpack. That might compensate a bit ...

I only remember one part of the WHW actually harder than any part of the Francés, and that was the ascent via the devils staircase. But this was mostly due to horrible weather with sleet and slippery ground.
Overall I would say the WHW (at that time) was easy ground for walking. Only the Loch Lomond part was a bit rocky with lots of up and down and the occasional tree fallen across the path. The remaining parts were well trodden but without too much erosion.
While sometimes on the WHW exhaustion per mile was higher, the daily stages can be rather short, which compensates a bit. However, weather wise, parts are rather exposed.
The main difference to me besides climate was that on most days there were long stretches without facilities, bars, restaurants etc. . Not a problem, but a difference in what you experience and how you prepare for a day'S walking.

Just for your entertainment, my old travelblog, long time abandoned, but the posts of my WHW experience are still there. Enjoy some analogue slide-photography:
http://www.photoscapes.eu/travel/whw97/

 

[auburnfive]

in my experience the WHW was more difficult, the ground was more uneven with lots of roots and more ups and downs. It was beautiful and quite desolate, few cafes to stop at along the way. I was in a group, the midges really bothered some folks and ignored others, I was glad to be one of the lucky ones.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

in my experience the WHW was more difficult, the ground was more uneven with lots of roots and more ups and downs. It was beautiful and quite desolate, few cafes to stop at along the way. I was in a group, the midges really bothered some folks and ignored others, I was glad to be one of the lucky ones.

As stated in my earlier reply, I only seem to remember pronounced unevenness along Loch Lomond. Maybe the walkers of the last 2 decades have contributed to more erosion? When did you walk?

I always wanted to walk the WHW again to see how it has changed.

 

[Mary Doll]

I’ve done the West Highland Way several times. I think if you can cope with the Camino Frances then you’ll be just fine. It may seem harder because it’s compressed into a shorter time. The roughest part is along Loch Lomond just after the Inversnaid Hotel which is quite rocky and you have no option but to take it slowly. There is a fair bit of up and down but nothing too difficult. The Devil’s Staircase is not nearly as bad as it sounds. The path zigzags up the hill and it doesn’t take long to reach the summit. There are only 2 long stretches without facilities, Rannoch Moor and on the last day from Kinlochleven to Fort William. I would say take it slow and steady and you’ll be just fine. You shouldn’t miss a visit to the Drovers Inn at Inverarnan. Just watch out for the bear!

 

[Vacajoe]

Mary Doll’s comments match my memories from walking it in Fall of 2022. The second half of the Loch Lomond trail was very difficult as erosion had made for very uneven terrain and several spots requiring scrambling down rocky drop offs.

Travel slowly, plan shorter days than you would walk on the Camino Frances, and carry lunch and snacks just in case the usual resources are closed for the day (which happened more than once to us).

 

[malingerer]

In which case all you need is a midge net and a bottle of Bunnahabhain

I prefer LAPHRAIG meself or the Mc Allen

Samarkand

 

[Glenshiro]

I agree that if you've walked the CF (and even more if you have walked the Via Podiensis) that the WHW will be well within your abilities. There were several 80+ walkers the year I walked it.

The northern section along the eastern side of Loch Lomond is very slow going as it twists and turns over rocks and tree roots (at one point you have to climb a ladder over an enormous boulder) but I second the advice to take it slowly and you'll be fine. The weather, of course, is unpredictable, and you should be prepared for everything between brilliant sunshine and heavy downpours. Midges won't bother you if you keep moving. And you'll definitely need to carry a packed lunch. Accommodation is generally good, and I see that the Kingshouse in Glencoe, which was a notorious bottleneck, has been completely refurbished and enlarged.

When I walked the route in 2009 I was startled to discover that I was in the middle of a race. This is run every year in June, setting off from Milngavie (pronounced Mull-guy) in the early hours of the morning and consists of 95 miles of fairly hard going with an accumulated ascent of just under 15,000 feet. Competitors are disqualified if they take more than 36 hours and the winner that year completed the race in 16 hours, although the current record is 14 hours 14 minutes. I have to lie down just thinking about it.

 

[jkk]

I have done numerous Caminos and did the WHW folllowed by the GGW last fall at the age of 71. The one thing I found most difficult was the lack of places to stop to have a second cup of coffee. Once you start walking for the day you are pretty much on your own. I went in October with a friend. She had her bag transferred and I carried mine and we prebooked all accommodations using recommendations from the WHW Facebook group. There were no midges but we had plenty of rain. The Scotish people were wonderful and the terrain is beautiful . It is a path I would like to do again.
.
.

 

[Phil&Barb]

Thanks for the advice.

I realise now that I forgot to mention that we were planning on using an agency to arrange accommodation and bag transfer along the route. Our days camping days are over. We've been there and done that stuff.

You've got the right idea for the WHW by having arranging accommodations and baggage transfer along the route. Having walked both the Camino Portuguese and WHW the WHW is much tougher and services are fewer and farther between accommodations. Having said that they are both wonderful paths in their own right and we encountered many seniors on the WHW doing just fine.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

The terrain will occasionally be more of a challenge than on the Camino routes but the biggest challenge will be accommodation. If you’re prepared to carry tentage and wild camp, subject to some seasonal restrictions, you’ll be fine. Otherwise start booking now.

Tentage?

 

[Hans-Georg Goebel]

My wife and I are from the UK and have walked the Camino Frances from St Jean twice and the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon once. We carried all our stuff for the whole distance on each occasion. We did not find any part of the trails too arduous at any point.

We are currently planning to walk the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland in a few months time. Having read several rather conflicting reports on the difficulties of this route we are confused.

Having met several fellow pilgrims on the Camino who had previously walked the WHW I'm seeking advice, if possible, from fellow pilgrims on the relative difficulties of the Camino versus the WHW.

Our background:- We are both seniors, I'm 80 and my wife is a few years younger, but consider ourselves quite fit having easily completed a 150 mile (240kms) backpacking hike last summer.

I walked the WHW long before my Caminos a good 20 years ago and of course do not know how the infrastructure has changed. i remember very well that at that time the number of overnight accommodations were very limited, had to be mandatory pre-booked and the daily stages were often relatively long. It took a long time until I had reservations together throughout to then start running. The path was wonderful, then quite well marked, but due to the terrain also often strenuous

Translated with DeepL

 

[Tincatinker]

Tentage?

Some form of fabric based weather proof shelter. Doesn’t have to be a ️ can be a tarpaulin, a bivouac bag, even just a well waxed sleeping bag (not recommended)

 

[henrythedog]

Tentage?

Like a tent, but older?

 

[WayWalker]

Tentage?

All things to do with tent camping.

 

[Sherpa47]

My wife and I are from the UK and have walked the Camino Frances from St Jean twice and the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon once. We carried all our stuff for the whole distance on each occasion. We did not find any part of the trails too arduous at any point.

We are currently planning to walk the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland in a few months time. Having read several rather conflicting reports on the difficulties of this route we are confused.

Having met several fellow pilgrims on the Camino who had previously walked the WHW I'm seeking advice, if possible, from fellow pilgrims on the relative difficulties of the Camino versus the WHW.

Our background:- We are both seniors, I'm 80 and my wife is a few years younger, but consider ourselves quite fit having easily completed a 150 mile (240kms) backpacking hike last summer.

Hi, most of the WWW terrain is fine except for a steep uphill out of Glencoe and also out of Kinlochleven.
Will DEFINITELY need to book accommodation ahead.
Try to go in May before the midges try to eat you.
Consider bag transfer so you only need to carry a day sack.
It is a beautiful walk with some stunning scenery, and mak sure you visit the Glengoyne distillery on day one!
Good luck.

 

[Vacajoe]

Some form of fabric based weather proof shelter. Doesn’t have to be a ️ can be a tarpaulin, a bivouac bag, even just a well waxed sleeping bag (not recommended)

If you bring more than one of those, do you call them tentagecles?

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I attempt to parse tentage
and am tempted to tamper
with tenti, or even a fine Spanish tenterilla
but I resist the tentation.
Tarnation!

You guys are in fine form today.

 

[Bradypus]

I attempt to parse tentage
and am tempted to tamper
with tenti, or even a fine Spanish tenterilla
but I resist the tentation.
Tarnation!

You guys are in fine form today.

You're not doing badly yourself!

 

[Mr_Ross_Duncan]

Hi Tony, my wife and I did both the Via Podiensis and the WHW last year. We carried our packs on both occasion. As others have said, there's nothing really too strenuous to worry about, our only difficult stretch was along Loch Lomond. We would have liked to stay half-way in the hotel there, however it was closed for renovations when we walked, that meant a very long day along the loch. My only advice would be to make sure your booking company has that section divided into two days. Perhaps another tip would be to splash some cash at Kingshouse and stay in the hotel rather than the bunkhouse. We found the bunkhouse to be uncomfortably hot and stuffy, not great sleeping conditions. Enjoy the walk, it's spectacular.

 

[brian560]

The terrain will occasionally be more of a challenge than on the Camino routes but the biggest challenge will be accommodation. If you’re prepared to carry tentage and wild camp, subject to some seasonal restrictions, you’ll be fine. Otherwise start booking now.

You can stay at camping sites at most stages and pay between 5 to 7 pounds. The campsites have drying rooms except for Tyndrum where the skinflint manager turns theirs off at 10 pm. The bag transfer services are reasonably priced and work well.

 

[TonyC]

You're not doing badly yourself!

Isn't it great when someone really extents the topic?

 

[Ali@59]

You can stay at camping sites at most stages and pay between 5 to 7 pounds. The campsites have drying rooms except for Tyndrum where the skinflint manager turns theirs off at 10 pm. The bag transfer services are reasonably priced and work well.

The camping sites in Scotland are not so cheap nowadays, they mostly now charge for the tent and each occupant but obviously still much cheaper than the hotels and B&Bs

 

[Val&Tom]

My wife and I are from the UK and have walked the Camino Frances from St Jean twice and the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon once. We carried all our stuff for the whole distance on each occasion. We did not find any part of the trails too arduous at any point.

We are currently planning to walk the West Highland Way (WHW) in Scotland in a few months time. Having read several rather conflicting reports on the difficulties of this route we are confused.

Having met several fellow pilgrims on the Camino who had previously walked the WHW I'm seeking advice, if possible, from fellow pilgrims on the relative difficulties of the Camino versus the WHW.

Our background:- We are both seniors, I'm 80 and my wife is a few years younger, but consider ourselves quite fit having easily completed a 150 mile (240kms) backpacking hike last summer.

One big difference between the two walks is that they have distilleries in Scotland and wineries in Spain!
The route is, when I walked it, a number of years ago, a condensed version of the Camino Frances. Plan your route and book your accommodation well in advance. We had no problem finding b&b’s and pubs to eat in. If you haven’t heard of the Drovers Arms, you MUST stay there. Owned by a succession of eccentric landlords who used to lock the residents in at night and sometimes not turn up in the morning to let them out. You can see the mark’s on the main door where people have tried to gouge their way out. It’s an education.

 

[Mary Doll]

One big difference between the two walks is that they have distilleries in Scotland and wineries in Spain!
The route is, when I walked it, a number of years ago, a condensed version of the Camino Frances. Plan your route and book your accommodation well in advance. We had no problem finding b&b’s and pubs to eat in. If you haven’t heard of the Drovers Arms, you MUST stay there. Owned by a succession of eccentric landlords who used to lock the residents in at night and sometimes not turn up in the morning to let them out. You can see the mark’s on the main door where people have tried to gouge their way out. It’s an education.

The Drovers is a must. If you can’t get a room there it’s well worth a visit for food and drink. Really quirky place which is reputedly haunted by several ghosts. I stayed in 2018 and the only spirits I saw were the alcoholic ones.

 

[AlwynWellington]

The main difference to me besides climate was that on most days there were long stretches without facilities, bars, restaurants etc.

@Arctic_Alex, thank you and just the information I was hoping not to receive.

Maybe I'll just have to put the single malt in the pack.

Now, where to find a tarn to add a dash of the other water of life?

 

[AlwynWellington]

GGW

? GGW

 

[Bradypus]

? GGW

Great Glen Way. A signposted extension north from Fort William to Inverness.

 

[Glenshiro]

The Drovers is a must. If you can’t get a room there it’s well worth a visit for food and drink. Really quirky place which is reputedly haunted by several ghosts. I stayed in 2018 and the only spirits I saw were the alcoholic ones.

I spent an evening in the Drovers when I walked the WHW. Within 20 minutes I overheard two other walkers, hitherto complete strangers, exchanging accounts of their hikes to Everest Base Camp. I decided not to contribute my reminisces of the South Downs Way.

 

[AlwynWellington]

@Bradypus, thank you.

I hope to return to GB next year and begin a project I have on paper: Lands End to John O'Groats.

Using a variety of tools I have mapped a way to Carlisle that I am comfortable with at present.

North from Carlisle looks to be impassable on foot.

So wave a magic wand and transport to the landing beach near Whithorn. From there there is a (reverse) pilgrimage path around to Ayr and on to Glasgow and Fort William (Whithorn and West Highland ways).

My earlier research showed a path along the south/east side of Loch Ness.

I can now clearly see the Great Glen Way and am happy as a sand boy that I will be able to maintain a physical (and namesake) connection with Scotland's third castle when passing by.

Now to focus on a way north from Inverness.

Kia kaha

 

[TonyC]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to my original question.

Having considered these comments, and quite a lot of other research elsewhere, we have taken the plunge and decided to walk the WHW in early July.

As it's a few years since we last backpacked in summer, and the terrain being largely unknown to us, we decided to book an 8 day package with Macs Adventures. This gives us the security of knowing exactly where we will be sleeping each night and also allows us to carry somewhat lighter backpacks.

We're claiming that "With Age comes Wisdom". Perhaps we are just becoming lazy.

Thanks again for all contributions.

Buen Camino

 

[Glenshiro]

Good move booking your accommodation - the WHW is the most popular long distance path in the UK. That said, it never seemed crowded. Have a great time!