Weather during July-August from Besançon into Rome

[camster]

I walked the Frances 2 summers ago and I remember being cold in the morning and evening. I had never known a dry climate, as where I live near Montreal, summers and stuffy and humid and the warm weather doesn't dissipate during. It stays warm and humid during the night too. I was wondering what I can expect weather-wise on the Francigena, to pack accordingly (merino, quick-dry, heavy layers). I know it will be cold at St. Bernard's Pass, but if it's the only spot, I'll adjust.
Thanks!

 

[JabbaPapa]

This is frankly an imponderable -- though Summer in Italy is anyway hot, especially as you get into Latium/Lazio.

I know it will be cold at St. Bernard's Pass

I have never walked that route, but I have been up on such Alpine Passes in Summer more than once -- maybe it will be cold, but maybe it will be super hot, or maybe it will be comfortably warm or cool.

Alpine weather is even more unpredictable than the Pyrenees.

 

[Bradypus]

I walked from Canterbury to Rome in summer 2015. I passed through Besançon in mid-August on a day of thunderstorms and heavy rain. The end of a heatwave several days long. Between there and Rome I met lots of different weather conditions. 5C at the Grand Saint Bernard pass and frost on the ground in the morning. 35+C on some days in Tuscany. Brilliant sunshine much of the time. A couple of days of constant drizzle in the Po valley and one with a torrential downpour of rain for hours in Switzerland. Given the duration of the walk you probably have to prepare for all of those.

 

[SYates]

As I always say: Climate is what you can expect, weather is what you will get!". So, prepare for coldish to blistering hot and take good rain gear. Once walking a similar Camino in France/Italy I had 6 weeks of non-stop rain followed then by several weeks of blistering heat.
BC SY

 

[domigee]

I walked the Frances 2 summers ago and I remember being cold in the morning and evening. I had never known a dry climate, as where I live near Montreal, summers and stuffy and humid and the warm weather doesn't dissipate during. It stays warm and humid during the night too. I was wondering what I can expect weather-wise on the Francigena, to pack accordingly (merino, quick-dry, heavy layers). I know it will be cold at St. Bernard's Pass, but if it's the only spot, I'll adjust.
Thanks!

St Bernard pass in July 2017 still had some snow but as you walk, you get warm! The Cisa pass was also chilly but all that was needed in both places was an extra layer.
The rest of the way, to Rome, we had the Lucifer heatwave, mostly 40 deg + !
An umbrella gave me some shade!
But hopefully it was a one-off? Who knows? I don't think we had one single day of rain...
Should you have the same high temperatures, try and find accommodation that have a/c, it is hard to sleep at night when it is so hot. During the day, start early and carry plenty of water.
Ah, crossing the rice fields, carry some insect repellentI Plenty of mosquitoes in Summer!!!

 

[Paul-CH]

When you start at July 1st you will probably be 14 days later at the St. Bernard's Pass.
I was there this year July 11th. At the Hospice Gd-St-Bernard I have been told, that just a week ago it was possible to start ski touring right in front of the Hotel as it had enough snow.
Temperatur when I went up from Bourg Saint Pierre 15°C.
The next morning from GSP 7°C to 25°C at Aosta. The following days between 16°C-30°C then it was to HOT for my and I stopped at Vercelli and will restart next spring (March) there.
More details on my german blog.

 

[lovingkindness]

Hello @camster
I walked through Italy on my way from France to Jerusalem in 2013. I crossed into Italy during the first week of July via the Montgenèvre Pass. I followed the VF as far as San Quiroco D'Orcia then switched to more pleasant trails eventually arriving in Assisi, Rome then Bari.

For me, the VF in July-August was a foretaste of purgatory : Walking in the searing heat beside roads and on flat surfaces; airless nights; Mosquitoes attacking day and night; steam billowing from rice fields into my face. I coped by setting off very very early.

Here's a pdf which I put together about the VF portion of my pilgrimage not long after I'd walked it...

Cheers
Lovingkindness

 

[domigee]

Hello @camster
I walked through Italy on my way from France to Jerusalem in 2013. I crossed into Italy during the first week of July via the Montgenèvre Pass. I followed the VF as far as San Quiroco D'Orcia then switched to more pleasant trails eventually arriving in Assisi, Rome then Bari.

For me, the VF in July-August was a foretaste of purgatory : Walking in the searing heat beside roads and on flat surfaces; airless nights; Mosquitoes attacking day and night; steam billowing from rice fields into one's face. I coped by setting off very very early.

Here's a pdf which I put together about the VF portion of my pilgrimage not long after I'd walked it...

Cheers
Lovingkindness

I had no idea you'd walked to Jerusalem too, I did it a year after you. . Bravo.
I'd love to do it again and walking through Italy opens new 'ways' for me, definitely time for thinking!

 

[camster]

Hello @camster
I walked through Italy on my way from France to Jerusalem in 2013. I crossed into Italy during the first week of July via the Montgenèvre Pass. I followed the VF as far as San Quiroco D'Orcia then switched to more pleasant trails eventually arriving in Assisi, Rome then Bari.

For me, the VF in July-August was a foretaste of purgatory : Walking in the searing heat beside roads and on flat surfaces; airless nights; Mosquitoes attacking day and night; steam billowing from rice fields into one's face. I coped by setting off very very early.

Here's a pdf which I put together about the VF portion of my pilgrimage not long after I'd walked it...

Cheers
Lovingkindness

Thank you. I'm grateful for your information, as well as others' before you.
As much as mosquitoes were totally absent on the Frances, it looks like there are a lot in Italy. I'll take heed.
Heading to look at your document. Thanks again!

 

[lovingkindness]

Thank you. I'm grateful for your information, as well as others' before you.
As much as mosquitoes were totally absent on the Frances, it looks like there are a lot in Italy. I'll take heed.
Heading to look at your document. Thanks again!

You are welcome!
Happy planning

 

[lovingkindness]

I had no idea you'd walked to Jerusalem too, I did it a year after you. . Bravo.
I'd love to do it again and walking through Italy opens new 'ways' for me, definitely time for thinking!

Hi there @domigee , @camster and others...
Yes! What an adventure. The urge to walk to the Holy Land was strong. It had been growing in me for years before I finally set off, flute in hand and not much else.

Here's a link to my route finding, guide books and maps:

L

Thread 'Italy: Cessana-Turinese via Assisi & Rome to Bari'

Mar 16, 2015

Buon Giorno.

Here are some of the resources used on my journey through Italy [July - Nov, 2013]. I walked without GPS or internet connection relying on signs and conversation. The maps and guides used were those found along the way. I set off from Castella, France in the cool of spring reaching Italy in high summer. Days and nights were a scorching fire and the mosquitos savage... and as I walked I made music. I dined on home-made pastas, pizzas and risottos and the scatterings of nature -grazie mille!

Route in Italy:

GR 653 D : Arles - Montgenèvre...

• lovingkindness
• Replies: 0
• Camino de Santiago Forum: Other walks around the world

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...and here is an accommodation resource which I put together afterwards (login to download). Many of the places where I sheltered had been welcoming pilgrims for centuries:

Resource icon L

Italy: Shelter 2013

Mar 16, 2015

Shelter along the Via Francigena & Il Cammino di San Francesco (2013): Cessana-Torinese to Bari

• lovingkindness
• Other Routes

Happy dreaming!

 

[domigee]

@lovingkindness Thank you!

 

[lovingkindness]

@lovingkindness Thank you!

..it's a pleasure!

 

[mick53]

I walked the Frances 2 summers ago and I remember being cold in the morning and evening. I had never known a dry climate, as where I live near Montreal, summers and stuffy and humid and the warm weather doesn't dissipate during. It stays warm and humid during the night too. I was wondering what I can expect weather-wise on the Francigena, to pack accordingly (merino, quick-dry, heavy layers). I know it will be cold at St. Bernard's Pass, but if it's the only spot, I'll adjust.
Thanks!

We walked the Via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome in 2017.Weather with natural and variability and climate change is unpredictable, can only look at averages BUT ...


1. you need to get to St Bernards Pass after it's opened, can check when it normally opens each year and allow a safety margin.
2. as you near Rome July will probably be too hot and in August it is getting unwalkable anywhere in Europe near the Mediterranean. We had the St Lucifer heat wave in Tuscany, 42°C is not fun, if it's that hot take a portable shelter i.e. an umbrella, lots of water, or don't walk!
May the weather gods smile on you and have fun, it's a fantastic walk!!!

 

[mspath]

Phoebe Smith in this article published December 31, 2024, in
The Guardian. describes the continuing lore of rescuing monks and visitors where a ceramic sign attached to the stone walls reads: “St Bernard guide nos pas”. Bernard died in 1081, and in 1681 was canonised, becoming the patron saint of mountaineers.

Read this if you love the mountains and life.!!

 

[Bradypus]

Phoebe Smith in this article

That link takes me to another post on the forum - well worth reading in its own right. I think this is the Phoebe Smith article: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/...ue-monks-a-monastery-escape-in-the-swiss-alps.
An interesting read. @timr wrote about options for renting snowshoes to walk up to the pass during the long period when the road is closed. I'm not that ambitious and enjoyed my summer visit instead!

Thread 'GSB: A guide to crossing the Great St Bernard Pass'

Jan 18, 2019

A Guide to crossing the Great St Bernard Pass (this is a long post: you might want to grab a coffee before you start!)

I crossed the pass twice last year and did not find a single site or book which gathered together all the information I wanted, so I thought I would put something on record myself. I was somewhat confused, not knowing quite where the road and the tunnel began and ended, nor what the different options were. Many people did help me with information at that time, both on this forum and elsewhere and I renew my thanks to them. I hope others will be able to add to this...

• timr
• Replies: 40
• Camino de Santiago Forum: 🇮🇹 Via Francigena (Canterbury to Rome)

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[Stephan the Painter]

I was wondering what I can expect weather-wise on the Francigena, to pack accordingly (merino, quick-dry, heavy layers). I know it will be cold at St. Bernard's Pass, but if it's the only spot, I'll adjust.
Thanks!

I think there will be at least a couple of weeks when it's dangerously hot to walk. I admit I haven't walked anywhere in the Mediterranean in the high summer, but I have friends who live in Central Italy and talk about it being so hot and humid that they have trouble sleeping and can't get anything done.

My sense is that Italy has a humid summer, not a dry summer. It's much greener than Spain.

 

[Bradypus]

My sense is that Italy has a humid summer, not a dry summer. It's much greener than Spain.

Not so easy to generalise. The Italian part of the VF passes over many different types of terrain and vegetation. Some parts like the Po valley can be oppressively damp and humid. Others may be very dry in summer. The mountain and forest sections near Aosta or the Passo della Cisa may be a welcome relief from the more intense heat of the plains. Discovering quite how green northern Spain can be was one of my major discoveries on my first Camino. I had been expecting something more like stereotypical Andalusia all the way. I found an even richer variety along the VF.

 

[Paul-CH]

Summer, Italy and Via Francigena, is only for people who like it hot. That's not my season. But if you enjoy hiking on temperatures over 30°C go on.
This is a reason to start VF in Spring and split VF before or after the GSB-Pass and restart in Autumn for the rest.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Not so easy to generalise. I. over many different types of terrain and vegetation. Some parts like the Po valley can be oppressively damp and humid. Others may be very dry in summer. The mountain and forest sections near Aosta or the Passo della Cisa may be a welcome relief from the more intense heat of the plains. Discovering quite how green northern Spain can be was one of my major discoveries on my first Camino. I had been expecting something more like stereotypical Andalusia all the way. I found an even richer variety along the VF.

Good point. A lot more variety.
But somewhere along that route in the summer, you'll run into a few weeks where it's going to be incredibly hot and uncomfortable. @camster was worried about cold, and I don't think that will be her problem.

 

[Paul-CH]

worried about cold,

It was quite fresh on July 16th when I started my descent to Aosta. But a week before they had snow on the GSB-pass and they could wear the ski in front of the Hotel

 

[Bradypus]

@camster was worried about cold, and I don't think that will be her problem.

I found myself shivering with cold in the Po valley on a day when persistent rain for hours had left me soaked to the skin. Inadequate rainwear. And that was in August!

 

[Stephan the Painter]

One can always find the exception to the rule. But you won’t convince me that in general, along the entirety of VF in Italy in July and August mostly the weather problems will be heat.

Of course you will have to be prepared for everything.

 

[Bradypus]

Of course you will have to be prepared for everything.

That's the rub. A couple of days of something exceptional which you are unprepared for can be quite unpleasant.

 

[Paul-CH]

I admit I haven't walked anywhere in the Mediterranean in the high summer, but I have friends who live in Central Italy and talk about it being so hot and humid that they have trouble sleeping and can't get anything done.

I mit July I had four days up to 30°C on my way to Vercelli. Where I finished walking because of the heat.

@camster was worried about cold, and I don't think that will be her problem.

Well when I read your two comments I am not sure what will be her problem. Against cold you can wear clothes but against 40°C I don't know what to do otherwise the stop walking.
Depending on the season you cross the GSB. In a normal summer there won't be more then four days of cold. Two up and two down to Aosta.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Depending on the season you cross the GSB. In a normal summer there won't be more then four days of cold. Two up and two down to Aosta.

The original poster knows that it will be cold in the mountains. She was asking what the temperature would be farther along the walk.

My suggestion is that she's much more likely to experience too much heat, instead of too much cold. I think in one of your earlier comments, you said the same thing, so we agree.

Anyway, weather prediction is a foolish game. It could very well be a frigid summer. Who knows?

 

[camster]

Good point. A lot more variety.
But somewhere along that route in the summer, you'll run into a few weeks where it's going to be incredibly hot and uncomfortable. @camster was worried about cold, and I don't think that will be her problem.

I'm used to humid temperatures. In Spain, on the Frances, I found the dry climate difficult and sometimes cold "under" the heat if I can lay it like that. So it's reassuring to me to understand the type of humidity I can expect on the Francigena, indeed. I'm very glad for everyone's input today.

 

[camster]

I mit July I had four days up to 30°C on my way to Vercelli. Where I finished walking because of the heat.

Well when I read your two comments I am not sure what will be her problem. Against cold you can wear clothes but against 40°C I don't know what to do otherwise the stop walking.
Depending on the season you cross the GSB. In a normal summer there won't be more then four days of cold. Two up and two down to Aosta.

Actually, the problem for me on the Frances, is that I was missing a warm layer, even though I had a long sleeve button shirt, a puffy North Face jacket and a windbreaker and a merino buff. I faced mornings that were crazy cold on the meseta with smoke forming with my breath in July-august. I was worried about not being prepared enough layer-wise on the VF, or if the temperatures being humid and warmer, I would be okay there with the same layers.