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LIVE from the Camino Walking the Dream Part 2 - Kumano Kodo in Japan sister pilgrimage of Camino de Santiago

Time of past OR future Camino
Oct 4 to Nov 5 2023 Camino Frances
Day 0 – Hong Kong to Osaka to Kii-Tanabe

Sept 29 – 30, 2024
It was almost exactly one year ago today when we started our pilgrimage to the Camino de Santiago last year.

This time we’re doing the Kumano Kodo, the sister pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago in Japan.

But first, we must get to the starting point, a city called Kii-Tanabe in Wakayama, about 3 hours by rapid train south of Osaka.

Our flight was at 0705 HKT to 1155 OST (Japan is one hour ahead of Hong Kong). This means we must be at the airport very early (0500). Since getting to the airport at those hours was stressful (buses were few and far between, and a taxi would be too pricy) we decided to spend the night at the airport.

This is the first time we ever did this in our years of traveling, and it wasn’t as bad as we expected. At the airport, we still managed to get some food, although the restaurants were already closing because it was almost midnight. Only McDonald’s offers 24-hour service.

It turns out, many people spend the night at the airport to catch their early morning flights. We saw people with sleeping bags, mats, etc., really prepared to spend the night. We found a spot in the arrival hall where the seats are wide comfortable enough to lie down if you wanted to. It took a while, but Tess (my wife) and I managed to get some sleep. I sort of catnapped for 30-minute stretches.

We got up about 3 hours before our flight and proceeded to the counter only to find a long queue of passengers already there even though the counters were still closed. Anyway, check-in was efficient and quick considering the huge crowd of passengers. We still had time to grab breakfast at McDonald’s before proceeding to our gate.

The flight departed as scheduled and was uneventful. We took HK Express which is relatively comfortable and efficient for a budget airline. My only complaint is that the aircraft had only three toilets for about 200 passengers on a four-and-a-half-hour flight. Almost everyone spent to whole flight sleeping despite some stretches of turbulence.

Arriving at Kansai International Airport was uneventful although many things have changed in terms of airport procedures since the last time we were here in Feb 2018 before covid.

Foreigners (non-Japanese) must fill in an arrival card (you can do this during the flight), go through immigration, claim their luggage, fill in a declaration form even if you have nothing to declare, and get a QR Code from one of the airport terminals. This took time because of the huge volume of arriving passengers.

We had to catch the 13:32 rapid train to Kii-Tanabe and I was worried we wouldn’t make it on time. Fortunately, we found the Tourist Information Centre quickly after exiting the arrival hall and here a very efficient young man who spoke perfect English assisted us in getting the tickets.

Just a tip: it’s better to know the schedule of the train you want to take beforehand to save time and stick to your travel schedule.

We found the train terminal and our platform quickly and boarded just five minutes before departure. Whew! That was close.

From KIX, we had to transfer to another station (Hineno) to take the 13:57 train that would take us to Kii-Tanabe. Finding the station was easy (it was only 2 stops after KIX). We got to Hineno about 10 minutes before departure.

But we had some anxious moments at Hineno finding the right platform for Kii-Tanabe. Fortunately, we had some help from a local girl (a commuter) who spoke good English (she said she wasn’t Japanese).

The train ride to Kii-Tanabe was uneventful. Since we didn’t have time to get lunch at the airport, we had some of the light snacks we brought with us for such an occasion.

After 2 hours, we disembarked at Kii-Tanabe and went straight to the Tourist Office which was just next door to the train station. The staff was very helpful. They gave us maps, our credentials, the bus schedules, and directions.

We then went to the 7-11 next door (here they have an ATM that takes foreign cards), bought some food to go, and walked to our hotel which was just 5 minutes away. We arrived at about 1600 and fell asleep quickly since we were tired.

It’s 22:40 local time as I typed this. After a few hours’ sleep, I’m feeling recovered and ready to start tomorrow’s walk on the Kumano Kodo.

My takeaway for today is: Getting to the starting point isn’t always easy but it’s worth it.

Thanks for reading this far, going back to sleep.

Bani
 
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
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Kii-Tanabe
You are bringing back memories of our own. My wife and I did the KK last year in mid-October. When we arrived at the train station in Kii-Tanabe found a great little fruit stand across from the station where the kind gentlemen running the stand turned us on to their excellent oranges and other fruit to take along on our trek. You will have a wonderful time.
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Day 1 Takijiri to Michi-no-Eki, 10km, Oct 1 2024

Very tough day on the Kumano Kodo

The first two kilometers is the toughest of any hike we’ve ever done. We’ve seen videos of this before and we knew it was difficult, but the videos do not really indicate how difficult it is in real life.

It goes uphill from Step 1 and shoots up and down in elevation from 1,400 to 600 feet. Unlike St. Jean Pied de Port, which starts mostly on paved roads and trails, what makes this part of the Kumano Kodo much more difficult is the very rough conditions of the trail, which is completely covered by rocks and tree roots. The path is very uneven, it’s so easy to break an ankle, and is a killer on the knees, quads, and legs in general.

We must constantly use our hiking poles to keep our balance and watch where we put our feet with every step. Also, from the beginning, the trail keeps going up continuously (no switchbacks) and is very steep. In many places, it was so narrow there was barely any place to secure a firm footing. There was always the risk of slipping and falling off the steep mountainside.

In my mind it felt like climbing up the tallest building in the world on a stairwell that is so uneven (one step maybe 6-inches, the next 18-inches, then 24-inches, then 6-inches again, etc), it’s taxing not only on the legs and body but also on the mind. You constantly have to keep your mind focused on every step in such a way that you can’t think of anything else. After a while, you no longer feel the pain and tiredness, you just take it one step at a time.

Needless to say we went very, very slowly, it took us one hour to finish the first kilometer (as a benchmark it takes a reasonably fit adult about one hour to finish 5 kilometers walking on a flat surface). It’s good that we only have to finish 10 kilometers today.

We were playing catch-up and pass with a group of young Chinese (male and female) who all looked very fit. I wouldn’t be surprised if they all belong to the same gym back home 😁

On the bright side, the forest was so beautiful with the bright sun piercing strongly through the trees lighting up the trail in many places. It was a hot day (30C) but it was cooler under the trees making walking comfortable weather-wise. (I can imagine how much more difficult and dangerous the trail would be when its raining and wet.)

It could be just my imagination but after a while, it felt like the peace, quiet, and overall serenity, was so soothing to the mind and soul. The whole place had a sense of tranquility and positivity that overcomes any challenges one may feel about hiking through these mountains. (Perhaps that is why this has been a pilgrimage place for the Japanese since ancient times.)

We actually started late because we were thinking it was only a 10-km hike. We took the 09:10 bus from Kii-Tanabe to Takijiri. The bus was filled with hikers, including the Chinese group I mentioned earlier. I remember them because one of the girls wore yellow hiking pants (Tess and I called her Miss Yellow Pants ) The bus ride was supposed to be 40 minutes, but it took almost an hour this morning.

For those who are asking, booking a place to stay at Kumano Kodo is a bit tricky. Unlike the Camino, this is not a place where there are lots of albergues or other accommodations available close to the trail.

When I was planning this hike, I tried using the official Kumano Travel website but there was no guarantee of getting a booking on time. The places available were booked months ahead. I tried searching other channels but many of the places available on Booking.com or Airbnb, for example, were either too far, inconvenient, or too pricey.

I lucked out when someone on the Facebook Camino page sent a message referring me to a host who offers her house (that’s relatively close to the trail and where she stayed recently) for Kumado Kodo hikers. Fortunately, it was available on the dates we needed.

In addition to the accommodation, the host offers a package which includes breakfast and dinner, transfers (she will pick you up on a designated location at the end of your hike for the day and bring you back to the same location the next day to resume your hike), and a bento box for lunch (there are few places to stop for lunch along the Kumano Kodo, most hikers bring their own food). The package was relatively pricey but I felt it was value for money considering what she offered.

Anyway, when the bus got to Takijiri, our host (Miko-san was charming, friendly, and spoke very good English) was waiting for us to take our luggage so we can start our hike immediately. She will pick us at the Michi-no-Eki rest area at the end of our hike. We just need to send her a Whatsapp when we got there.

Going back to the hike, we finally reached Takahara at 1230 (we started walking at 1015) where I had booked (also months before) lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, the only one that serves lunch in the village. The place was owned by a local who has done the Camino and spoke to us in Spanish (after he learned we had done the Camino too). When we were there, he was telling stories to a group of guests (middle-aged Japanese who traveled by car) who seem enthralled by his tales about the Kumano Kodo. (I speak very limited Japanese and only understood a few words but they were ohhing, ahhing, and clapping as he told his stories)

Lunch was Italian (the pasta was delicious and the food was all organic) instead of Japanese. For us it felt strange, in a good way, to be having an Italian lunch in the middle of the mountains in Southern Japan 🥰

We resumed our hike after lunch. By this time the sun was hot while we were on the road but it was cooler again once we were back in the forest.

The trail after Takahara was relatively gentler compared to earlier although it was still challenging and required focus.

We caught up with the young Chinese group again (not sure where they had lunch) and passed a middle-age European couple who looked like they may be Camino veterans. The wife jokingly asked us for the “password” since the trail was so narrow they had to step aside to let us pass 🤣 (By this time, we didn’t have time to stop and chat because the shadows created by the sun through the trees was getting longer and we anticipate the forest will be dark soon, so we were sort of rushing but still being very careful where we step.)

On the last leg, we passed several hikers who I’m assuming were also rushing to finish soon. But we still had to stop for short breaks and water stops as the trail does not really allow you to rush. (We can feel our hearts beating strongly whenever we were going too fast on the uphills, while our legs were also protesting when we were going too fast on the steep downhills)

We reached Michi-No-Eki at 16:30 and sent Miko-san a message. She responded quickly saying she will be there in 20 minutes. There was a shop where we bought some cold drinks while waiting.

Miko-san’s place was located in one of the backroads and quite remote but it was a beautiful, modern Japanese house. The location reminded me of Miyazaki’s Totoro, there was even a stream rushing through the back of the house who’s sound offer another soothing rhythmn to the already zen-like surroundings.

It was a very nice place to rest and relax after a very tough day on the Kumano Kodo.

My takeaway for today is: Tough days can be beautiful too.

Thanks for reading this far,

Bani
 
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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Day 0 – Hong Kong to Osaka to Kii-Tanabe

Sept 29 – 30, 2024
It was almost exactly one year ago today when we started our pilgrimage to the Camino de Santiago last year.

This time we’re doing the Kumano Kodo, the sister pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago in Japan.

But first, we must get to the starting point, a city called Kii-Tanabe in Wakayama, about 3 hours by rapid train south of Osaka.

Our flight was at 0705 HKT to 1155 OST (Japan is one hour ahead of Hong Kong). This means we must be at the airport very early (0500). Since getting to the airport at those hours was stressful (buses were few and far between, and a taxi would be too pricy) we decided to spend the night at the airport.

This is the first time we ever did this in our years of traveling, and it wasn’t as bad as we expected. At the airport, we still managed to get some food, although the restaurants were already closing because it was almost midnight. Only McDonald’s offers 24-hour service.

It turns out, many people spend the night at the airport to catch their early morning flights. We saw people with sleeping bags, mats, etc., really prepared to spend the night. We found a spot in the arrival hall where the seats are wide comfortable enough to lie down if you wanted to. It took a while, but Tess (my wife) and I managed to get some sleep. I sort of catnapped for 30-minute stretches.

We got up about 3 hours before our flight and proceeded to the counter only to find a long queue of passengers already there even though the counters were still closed. Anyway, check-in was efficient and quick considering the huge crowd of passengers. We still had time to grab breakfast at McDonald’s before proceeding to our gate.

The flight departed as scheduled and was uneventful. We took HK Express which is relatively comfortable and efficient for a budget airline. My only complaint is that the aircraft had only three toilets for about 200 passengers on a four-and-a-half-hour flight. Almost everyone spent to whole flight sleeping despite some stretches of turbulence.

Arriving at Kansai International Airport was uneventful although many things have changed in terms of airport procedures since the last time we were here in Feb 2018 before covid.

Foreigners (non-Japanese) must fill in an arrival card (you can do this during the flight), go through immigration, claim their luggage, fill in a declaration form even if you have nothing to declare, and get a QR Code from one of the airport terminals. This took time because of the huge volume of arriving passengers.

We had to catch the 13:32 rapid train to Kii-Tanabe and I was worried we wouldn’t make it on time. Fortunately, we found the Tourist Information Centre quickly after exiting the arrival hall and here a very efficient young man who spoke perfect English assisted us in getting the tickets.

Just a tip: it’s better to know the schedule of the train you want to take beforehand to save time and stick to your travel schedule.

We found the train terminal and our platform quickly and boarded just five minutes before departure. Whew! That was close.

From KIX, we had to transfer to another station (Hineno) to take the 13:57 train that would take us to Kii-Tanabe. Finding the station was easy (it was only 2 stops after KIX). We got to Hineno about 10 minutes before departure.

But we had some anxious moments at Hineno finding the right platform for Kii-Tanabe. Fortunately, we had some help from a local girl (a commuter) who spoke good English (she said she wasn’t Japanese).

The train ride to Kii-Tanabe was uneventful. Since we didn’t have time to get lunch at the airport, we had some of the light snacks we brought with us for such an occasion.

After 2 hours, we disembarked at Kii-Tanabe and went straight to the Tourist Office which was just next door to the train station. The staff was very helpful. They gave us maps, our credentials, the bus schedules, and directions.

We then went to the 7-11 next door (here they have an ATM that takes foreign cards), bought some food to go, and walked to our hotel which was just 5 minutes away. We arrived at about 1600 and fell asleep quickly since we were tired.

It’s 22:40 local time as I typed this. After a few hours’ sleep, I’m feeling recovered and ready to start tomorrow’s walk on the Kumano Kodo.

My takeaway for today is: Getting to the starting point isn’t always easy but it’s worth it.

Thanks for reading this far, going back to sleep.

Bani
If you like walking in Japan then add the 88 Temples Buddist Pilgrimage to your list ... 1100km around Shikoku Island.

We did it in2016
.
 

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