- Time of past OR future Camino
- First: Camino Francés 2002; most recent: Norte/Primitivo 2019
Hi all,
I'm halfway through another summer of pilgrimage. Just finished walking the Via Francigena with one group of students and am now getting ready to return to the hordes and the Camino Frances with a second student group. In between, I had a few days in SW France, so I decided to try the Voie de la Cote. I had a day to go from Bayonne to Irun (around 40km), so this was speed-dating--not a long-term relationship by any means. I decided to stick exclusively with the waymarks, instead of pursuing route alternatives along the coast.
I confess that my views on the route are not especially positive. Probably 90% of the route is on asphalt, and that may be a generous estimate. As others have mentioned in this forum, views of the actual coast are preciously rare--perhaps you see it around 1-2% of the time. The only time you actually walk along the coast is in Bidart. There are some nice panoramas of the Pyrenees, so the route is not without scenery, but it might not be what you anticipate.
Bidart and St Jean de Luz are both pretty towns, and I thought the church in Urrugne was quite nice, so I'm glad to have passed through. But the route wasn't especially fun walking--indeed, you're often on roads with little if any shoulder and sufficient car traffic to make you uncomfortable.
For those worried about the first, stiff day out of Irun, you might consider starting in St Jean de Luz as a warm-up, as the walking is easy. Otherwise, though, if you want coastal beauty, I'd just start in Spain--or explore the coastal alternatives that would pull you from the Voie Littorale proper.
Dave
I'm halfway through another summer of pilgrimage. Just finished walking the Via Francigena with one group of students and am now getting ready to return to the hordes and the Camino Frances with a second student group. In between, I had a few days in SW France, so I decided to try the Voie de la Cote. I had a day to go from Bayonne to Irun (around 40km), so this was speed-dating--not a long-term relationship by any means. I decided to stick exclusively with the waymarks, instead of pursuing route alternatives along the coast.
I confess that my views on the route are not especially positive. Probably 90% of the route is on asphalt, and that may be a generous estimate. As others have mentioned in this forum, views of the actual coast are preciously rare--perhaps you see it around 1-2% of the time. The only time you actually walk along the coast is in Bidart. There are some nice panoramas of the Pyrenees, so the route is not without scenery, but it might not be what you anticipate.
Bidart and St Jean de Luz are both pretty towns, and I thought the church in Urrugne was quite nice, so I'm glad to have passed through. But the route wasn't especially fun walking--indeed, you're often on roads with little if any shoulder and sufficient car traffic to make you uncomfortable.
For those worried about the first, stiff day out of Irun, you might consider starting in St Jean de Luz as a warm-up, as the walking is easy. Otherwise, though, if you want coastal beauty, I'd just start in Spain--or explore the coastal alternatives that would pull you from the Voie Littorale proper.
Dave