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Via Regia in Germany

seanmcauley

Camino Frances
Time of past OR future Camino
del Norte 15,16, 17
Portuguese 14 Lisbon to Coimbra
13 Lourdes over somport
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Pilgerweg. Walking from Gorlitz to leipzig- 10 days. Very quiet. Signage is good. Different sign - see photo. Stay in equivalent to albergues. Some attached to parishes. Some donation. On day 3. Language not a big problem. I've no German! - from Ireland.
 

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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Pilgerweg. Walking from Gorlitz to leipzig- 10 days. Very quiet. Signage is good. Different sign - see photo. Stay in equivalent to albergues. Some attached to parishes. Some donation. On day 3. Language not a big problem. I've no German! - from Ireland.
thanks for posting! I am thinking of doing this. :) Are some of these buildings pilgerherberge (albergues)?
 
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Thank you for posting this. I’ve wanted to walk a pilgrimage in Germany for years! How did you find your accommodations? Is there a guidebook somewhere?
 
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Thank you for posting this. I’ve wanted to walk a pilgrimage in Germany for years! How did you find your accommodations? Is there a guidebook somewhere?
Yes, you can order it from this link. There are also supplementals on the side of the same page. Afaik it's all in German.
 
Hello. I am looking into walking a stretch of Via Regia. This September. If anyone has walked most of it, is there a part which would work for me, with the following preferences? Pretty views, and I realize pretty is relative, well marked sections, hostels/albergues/pilgrim places every 25 km or so. I'm happier with paths and trails, rather than roads. Which I feel most of us would agree. I suspect I'll walk two to three weeks.

From this post, it may not seem I've done much searching on the web, and I actually have. Some of the links and sites I've found, (and happy to share), have been in German. A drawback, given I'm an english speaker. And I don't know what areas or regions to look at - that go along Via Regia. And my final ask for help...I travel very light. I have a very lightweight sleeping bag or just a sleep liner. For most hostels along the way, which would you bring, since I likely won't bring both? Leipzig, random town chosen, temperature for September seems to average 10-21 C, or 50-70 F, for those of us not in the metric world :) Danke!
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hello @NickyWalking.

another forum member, @SYates is writing a guide in English for the Via Regia with lots of detail. She has posted a draft of it here:


Happy planning!
Hello LovingKindness, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I did read that link before posting here. I saw it was dated 2016, so was looking for something more current. Am I understanding your post incorrectly? I interpreted it to mean that she was currently writing about a recent experience about Via Regia.
 
Hello @NickyWalking The excellent post by SYates from 2016 is still very usefull today, there have only been some changes in the accomodation (some Herbergen do not exist anymore, and there are some new ones) but the route description is still more or less valid (no major changes).

I walked from Gorlitz to Eisenach last June. I can not really advice what part is the prettiest, as I liked all of it. I can not remember whether there were sections which had more or less road walking than other sections. (Btw when I say road walking I mean walking on hard surface, but definitely not on busy roads).

I stayed in pilgrim accomodation (Herbergen) most nights, walking 20-25 km. stages. The pilgrim infrastructure is really good all along the way, with the exception of Leipzig (Sommerfeld Herberg has been closed) and Erfurt (both were closed last June but I am not sure whether this was permanent). I think you know the website by Oekumenischer Pilgerweg which keeps an update about changes in pilgrim accomodation ?

I would take a sleeping bag. Well I always do actually. But even in June (when the weather was very warm) it was actually a bit chilly in some of the Herbergen (old buildings).

If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.
 
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Hello LovingKindness, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I did read that link before posting here. I saw it was dated 2016, so was looking for something more current. Am I understanding your post incorrectly? I interpreted it to mean that she was currently writing about a recent experience about Via Regia.
Hi there @NickyWalking

...When it comes to mapping, trail signs and the actual path underfoot little will have changed since @SYates posted her descriptions here on the forum. Accommodation for pilgrims alters from year to year though...

Cheers
 
Hello @NickyWalking The excellent post by SYates from 2016 is still very usefull today, there have only been some changes in the accomodation (some Herbergen do not exist anymore, and there are some new ones) but the route description is still more or less valid (no major changes).

I walked from Gorlitz to Eisenach last June. I can not really advice what part is the prettiest, as I liked all of it. I can not remember whether there were sections which had more or less road walking than other sections. (Btw when I say road walking I mean walking on hard surface, but definitely not on busy roads).

I stayed in pilgrim accomodation (Herbergen) most nights, walking 20-25 km. stages. The pilgrim infrastructure is really good all along the way, with the exception of Leipzig (Sommerfeld Herberg has been closed) and Erfurt (both were closed last June but I am not sure whether this was permanent). I think you know the website by Oekumenischer Pilgerweg which keeps an update about changes in pilgrim accomodation ?

I would take a sleeping bag. Well I always do actually. But even in June (when the weather was very warm) it was actually a bit chilly in some of the Herbergen (old buildings).

If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.
Hello Marc, and to LovingKindness and to SYates. Thanks to all of you for the helpful information, and specifically addressing my concerns. I do have a few more questions, for now. I did bring a book along, while walking some of Camino Norte. I would prefer not to, for this walk, as weight and space is important to me, because I like to travel very light. I have become better at seeing signs. Somewhat. But still found the ability, occasionally, to become lost. :) Did you use a mobile navigational aide? I'm wondering if AllTrails, which lists Via Regia, will be sufficient? And I would prefer not to carry the book because of space and weight, and wonder if I can do without it, to stay on the path and find Herbergen. @Marc S Did you find many pilgrims walking or you were often more alone? I realize you walked in June, and I will in September. And if not many pilgrims, I have read it's best to message ahead or the Herbergen may be closed, since few pilgrims. And I am familiar with the website you wrote of, Oekumenischer Pilgerweg, yet find to get an actual listing of Herbergen on this site, I believe, does not exist. I have followed all the links and did find a 5 page PDF, in German, which I sensed listed some Herbergen, but not most, or close to the 100+ which exist on this path. Danke.
 
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Hello @NickyWalking

* I carried a copy of the guide book
* I did'nt carry a navigating device, mobile phone or camera
* I did'nt make reservations.
*I carried a paper copy of the accommodation pdf provided by the website mentioned. It was very useful.
* I improvised also, talking with people I met along the way, asking for their advice and help in finding a place to sleep.
* I rarely met another pilgrim.

Here is a link to the accommodation pdf (2024) which you mention. At the bottom of the page click, ERGÄNZUNG 11. AUFLUNG

Guten Weg!
 
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@NickyWalking , whilst I'm walking the Via Imperii, not the Via Regi, personally I found mapy.cz useful. It doesn't always specifically list the paths by name, but by finding the appropriate blue line you quickly see that it has Jakobsweg beside it; once you're on the trail it works really well. You can take a few photos of a physical map in order to have that for the general directions, without then having to carry the weight of the map itself.
 
As far as I know there is no listing of all accomodation on the internet. The PDF mentioned contains updates to the guidebook, but it is not a full list of all accomodation.

I walked with a guidebook and without a smartphone (just a simple mobile phone). The jakobswege-deutschland website has a link to download GPS tracks, but I did not use these.

I usually phoned a day in advance (or in the morning of the day of arrival) to announce my arrival and agree on a time of arrival. Or I phoned again when I was almost there. And in a few cases I just turned up.
It is not so much about Herbergen being closed, but they are run by volunteers who need to take some time off work or other daily duties to give you the key, so they often appreciate it when they know in advance that a pilgrim is coming. It all worked fine for me. But I have to add I speak German. (Of course many Germans speak perfect English but I think you can not take it for the granted, particularly in the former East & with people over 50.)

In three weeks I met 6 other pilgrims. When I first walked in September 2017 it was similar. So you need to be prepared to be on your own.
 
I did think of another question. Of the Via Regis that you walked, how much was road, versus how much was trails in forests, or not road? I did a web search on this and came up empty. Any guesses? At all? And thanks. Again.
 
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Hello @NickyWalking

* I carried a copy of the guide book
* I did'nt carry a navigating device, mobile phone or camera
* I did'nt make reservations.
*I carried a paper copy of the accommodation pdf provided by the website mentioned. It was very useful.
* I improvised also, talking with people I met along the way, asking for their advice and help in finding a place to sleep.
* I rarely met another pilgrim.

Here is a link to the accommodation pdf (2024) which you mention. At the bottom of the page click, ERGÄNZUNG 11. AUFLUNG

Guten Weg!
Hello LovingKindness. Your reply is very helpful to me. Full of excellent advice. Danke!
 
@NickyWalking , whilst I'm walking the Via Imperii, not the Via Regi, personally I found mapy.cz useful. It doesn't always specifically list the paths by name, but by finding the appropriate blue line you quickly see that it has Jakobsweg beside it; once you're on the trail it works really well. You can take a few photos of a physical map in order to have that for the general directions, without then having to carry the weight of the map itself.
Hi Peter, I'll give that site or application a go. mapy.cz Thanks for sharing with me. I have used map.me in the past and found that helpful. Particularly since I will be on more limited data, since the US plans are fairly pricey, and I put those on hold, while I'm in Europe.
 
As far as I know there is no listing of all accomodation on the internet. The PDF mentioned contains updates to the guidebook, but it is not a full list of all accomodation.

I walked with a guidebook and without a smartphone (just a simple mobile phone). The jakobswege-deutschland website has a link to download GPS tracks, but I did not use these.

I usually phoned a day in advance (or in the morning of the day of arrival) to announce my arrival and agree on a time of arrival. Or I phoned again when I was almost there. And in a few cases I just turned up.
It is not so much about Herbergen being closed, but they are run by volunteers who need to take some time off work or other daily duties to give you the key, so they often appreciate it when they know in advance that a pilgrim is coming. It all worked fine for me. But I have to add I speak German. (Of course many Germans speak perfect English but I think you can not take it for the granted, particularly in the former East & with people over 50.)

In three weeks I met 6 other pilgrims. When I first walked in September 2017 it was similar. So you need to be prepared to be on your own.
Hi Marc, Thanks again, for taking the time to give very practical advice. To me, and I feel your advice will help others considering the Via Regia. You covered many of my concerns. Language, number of people on the trail, accomodation listings (I pretty much decided I'll have to carry that guidebook), and figure out a way to stay light. Danke!
 
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Hi Peter, I'll give that site or application a go. mapy.cz Thanks for sharing with me. I have used map.me in the past and found that helpful. Particularly since I will be on more limited data, since the US plans are fairly pricey, and I put those on hold, while I'm in Europe.
You can download the maps and use them offline which will save you serious data. Give it a try at home perhaps?
 
I am on Day Four of walking Via Regia, also known as Der Okumenische Pilgerweg. I didn’t find lots of information, in English langauge on web, so I am writing this entry to help future pilgrims. I started from Gorlitz, on Polish border. Heading west. So only four days of impressions, so this information is alright, not perfect, for this reason and others. A good book to have, though in German, is:
Pilgerweg. Walking from Gorlitz to leipzig- 10 days. Very quiet. Signage is good. Different sign - see photo. Stay in equivalent to albergues. Some attached to parishes. Some donation. On day 3. Language not a big problem. I've no German! - from Ireland.
on Day four. From Gorlitz west. Vía Regia, also known as
Outdoor Handbuch via Regia. Pilgerweg von Gorlitz nach Vacha. Maps. Distances between towns. Keys for sleeping, eating, banks, buses, trains, more. Has a QR code for downloading a map, which may then be able to interface with another platform.

At least the Komoot app one. Another pilgrim using. I use Map.me and couldn’t get that to interface. Maybe it’s me.
Pilgerweg. Walking from Gorlitz to leipzig- 10 days. Very quiet. Signage is good. Different sign - see photo. Stay in equivalent to albergues. Some attached to parishes. Some donation. On day 3. Language not a big problem. I've no German! - from Ireland.
Walking Day Four of Via Regia, or Der Ökumenische Pilgerweg. Signs good 80-90% of time. Fair amount of road. Some luck with paths. Difficult to find English language information. There is a German language book. It is quite complete. 2023. Recent. Has distances, accommodations, keys for buses, trains, banks. Water in fountains in squares is not drinkable. I had written a me of book, which can be purchased at Gorlitz Tourist information, and another book, but I keep getting logged out of this forum and don’t see my draft being saved. And copy and pasted the information in it. This book, also has a QR code to download the map app. It didn’t work for me in Hiiker app or Map.me. Maybe it’s just me.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I am on Day Four of walking Via Regia, also known as Der Okumenische Pilgerweg. I didn’t find lots of information, in English langauge on web, so I am writing this entry to help future pilgrims. I started from Gorlitz, on Polish border. Heading west. So only four days of impressions, so this information is alright, not perfect, for this reason and others. A good book to have, though in German, is:

on Day four. From Gorlitz west. Vía Regia, also known as
Outdoor Handbuch via Regia. Pilgerweg von Gorlitz nach Vacha. Maps. Distances between towns. Keys for sleeping, eating, banks, buses, trains, more. Has a QR code for downloading a map, which may then be able to interface with another platform.

At least the Komoot app one. Another pilgrim using. I use Map.me and couldn’t get that to interface. Maybe it’s me.

Walking Day Four of Via Regia, or Der Ökumenische Pilgerweg. Signs good 80-90% of time. Fair amount of road. Some luck with paths. Difficult to find English language information. There is a German language book. It is quite complete. 2023. Recent. Has distances, accommodations, keys for buses, trains, banks. Water in fountains in squares is not drinkable. I had written a me of book, which can be purchased at Gorlitz Tourist information, and another book, but I keep getting logged out of this forum and don’t see my draft being saved. And copy and pasted the information in it. This book, also has a QR code to download the map app. It didn’t work for me in Hiiker app or Map.me. Maybe it’s just me.
It looks like my entries did take from earlier efforts! Sorry about that. It is best to call ahead of time for a place to sleep. Because not many pilgrims. So one day ahead usually works. And it feels like not everyone is on WhatsApp, so may need to have a way to call German numbers. Most didn’t seem to understand English. I am lucky that I am walking with a German.
 
It looks like my entries did take from earlier efforts! Sorry about that. It is best to call ahead of time for a place to sleep. Because not many pilgrims. So one day ahead usually works. And it feels like not everyone is on WhatsApp, so may need to have a way to call German numbers. Most didn’t seem to understand English. I am lucky that I am walking with a German.
In early September, I have met a total of 7 Germans in four days of travel. Certainly not many. As has been written before, a person could easily walk this and not see another pilgrim. For days. Four of the seven were met in a hostel for one night.
 
In early September, I have met a total of 7 Germans in four days of travel. Certainly not many. As has been written before, a person could easily walk this and not see another pilgrim. For days. Four of the seven were met in a hostel for one night.
I definitely think there is not a “competition” to get a bed. But there is a need to phone ahead, given so few walk.
 
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I see you've got similar weather to me at present, fairly warm to be walking.
Good you've got half decent signage I found it fairly hit and miss on the Via Imperii. ( Some areas great, some areas non-existent).
How are you doing accommodation wise, and have you come across anybody else walking?

Edited to add: you answered my questions as I was posting!
 
Yes you're right, whatsapp is a bit hit and miss here in Germany. You certainly can't expect accommodation providers to utilise it, although about 70% of my friends do.
7 pilgrims is heaps! 370km on the Via Imperii and I didn't meet a single one. Mind you I was walking in either autumn or spring.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Nicky, good to read you are on your way.
I have very fond memories of the Via Regia, hope it will be the same for you

Guten Weg !
Marc
 
What a wonderful community. First off, where I gave incorrect information in past few posts. I was fiddling with my phone and from the book, purchased in the Tourist Office in Gorlitz, which does have a QR code, I was able to get the downloaded files to interface with map.me. I searched the web on how to do this. That gave me a start. Held my finger on one of the files, which listed from one town to another, and then sent or forwarded it (the square with the arrow in the corner) and sent it to map.me. Done! It lists the route.

I don’t think it lists the accommodations. And other bits of information. I feel the book is almost essential if you want any planning. Unless you want to chance it , and come across a sign for a pilgrim stay , but then there is the issue of how to contact the people hosting the location. All of this is in that book.

The weather is warm. Shade is treasured. I think it better to start in mid September, rather than very late August. Adjustment can be done by leaving very early in the morning.

Accommodations are working out. Staying at parishes, youth hostels, pensions. I am currently in Skassa and hope to arrive in Strehla tomorrow night. I am walking with a German pilgrim. Kind person who navigates. And speaks English. All of that - Fortunately. I stand there, while the conversation occurs in German, and then the jist is explained to me in English.

As with other walks in Europe, somehow it all works out and I feel fortunate. Buen camino, everyone!

Thanks everyone for your messages and encouragement.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Here is a link to the accommodation pdf (2024). At the bottom of the page click, ERGÄNZUNG 11. AUFLUNG


Guten Weg!
I seem to be on a roll messaging at the moment. Two mentions:

There were two hostels attached to parishes which did not offer WiFi.

And, when walking from Skassa to Strehla, I suggest taking a different route than what is marked and suggested. Take bike path. Then right to follow Elbe River to the bridge. Cross into the town of Riesa. In the shade of walked early in the morning start, and pretty walk.
 
I suspect a spot where some pilgrims walk the wrong way: West from Strehla. Past Leckwitz. Past 500 meters. Veer right. Many go left. Do not head to street towards Clanzschwitz. A person outside their home, who was gardening, said many pilgrim go this wrong way! Which I did.

Also, just past Borin. I went the “wrong way.” One more tricky spot or intersection. Just outside Borin. Maybe 1 km past. There is a left turn off dirt road. At a 90 degree angle. But the marking of an OT obvious. It’s only when turning left for a one minute walk, that the clamshell is displayed.

Maybe next time, I will note the GPS.

And a good app for the weather in Germany is Warn Wetter. It gives weather based on your location, projects in detail when rain begins and ends. And how much. I believe it costs a few euros. If you want or need that much detail.
 
I think
I am on Day Four of walking Via Regia, also known as Der Okumenische Pilgerweg. I didn’t find lots of information, in English langauge on web, so I am writing this entry to help future pilgrims. I started from Gorlitz, on Polish border. Heading west. So only four days of impressions, so this information is alright, not perfect, for this reason and others. A good book to have, though in German, is:

on Day four. From Gorlitz west. Vía Regia, also known as
Outdoor Handbuch via Regia. Pilgerweg von Gorlitz nach Vacha. Maps. Distances between towns. Keys for sleeping, eating, banks, buses, trains, more. Has a QR code for downloading a map, which may then be able to interface with another platform.

At least the Komoot app one. Another pilgrim using. I use Map.me and couldn’t get that to interface. Maybe it’s me.

Walking Day Four of Via Regia, or Der Ökumenische Pilgerweg. Signs good 80-90% of time. Fair amount of road. Some luck with paths. Difficult to find English language information. There is a German language book. It is quite complete. 2023. Recent. Has distances, accommodations, keys for buses, trains, banks. Water in fountains in squares is not drinkable. I had written a me of book, which can be purchased at Gorlitz Tourist information, and another book, but I keep getting logged out of this forum and don’t see my draft being saved. And copy and pasted the information in it. This book, also has a QR code to download the map app. It didn’t work for me in Hiiker app or Map.me. Maybe it’s just me.
i was wrong. I wrote that the water in the village squares is not potable. Not drinkable. This is incorrect. Some German pilgrims and I were talking last night and it **is okay** to drink this water. I am sorry for the wrong information. And yesterday, the weather dropped 10 C and is expected to stay that way for a week. From a high of 29 or 31 C last week to this week of mostly 15 to 19 C. I will post again. With hopefully some reliable information!
 
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I wrote that the water in the village squares is not potable. Not drinkable. This is incorrect. Some German pilgrims and I were talking last night and it **is okay** to drink this water.
Thank you for the correction and clarification.

This topic comes up from time to time and I got curious about it. German law actually says that anyone who provides water in public places (this includes village squares and cemeteries and those who are responsible for it) must ensure that the points at which water is drawn from a non-drinking water system are permanently labelled to indicate that it is not drinking water. I would rely on it and would get water from a water tap in a village square or a cemetery in Germany when there is no sign saying explicitly that it is not drinkable.
 
Thanks @Kathar1na, I didn't know that about the water taps in cemeteries.

Would this also apply to church cemeteries ? (as opposed to the town cemeteries)
As they are owned buy an entity other than the state, does that not mean that technically they're not classified as a public place ?

Just wondering because I recall coming across at least one during my walk on the Via Imperii that I was told was bore water - which I've always considered to be a little suspect. Doubly so when you consider the location!
 
Would this also apply to church cemeteries ? (as opposed to the town cemeteries)
As they are owned buy an entity other than the state, does that not mean that technically they're not classified as a public place ?
I recommend googling for Trinkwasserverordnung ☺️. I used the word public just to indicate that the general public has access to the provision of water and not that it is owned or managed by a public (government) administration.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
There are indeed cemeteries in Germany where the water for watering the many flowers and other plants on the graves comes from a natural source a few meters under the ground. Others use tanks with rainwater for this purpose. Given the periods of draught in recent years this may well increase in future. Below is one example - however, in this case, they actually had to switch from water from a well and marked as "not drinking water" to tap water provided by a water company because the well has dried up:

Water in cemeteries.jpg
 
I think
I am on Day Four of walking Via Regia, also known as Der Okumenische Pilgerweg. I didn’t find lots of information, in English langauge on web, so I am writing this entry to help future pilgrims. I started from Gorlitz, on Polish border. Heading west. So only four days of impressions, so this information is alright, not perfect, for this reason and others. A good book to have, though in German, is:

on Day four. From Gorlitz west. Vía Regia, also known as
Outdoor Handbuch via Regia. Pilgerweg von Gorlitz nach Vacha. Maps. Distances between towns. Keys for sleeping, eating, banks, buses, trains, more. Has a QR code for downloading a map, which may then be able to interface with another platform.

At least the Komoot app one. Another pilgrim using. I use Map.me and couldn’t get that to interface. Maybe it’s me.

Walking Day Four of Via Regia, or Der Ökumenische Pilgerweg. Signs good 80-90% of time. Fair amount of road. Some luck with paths. Difficult to find English language information. There is a German language book. It is quite complete. 2023. Recent. Has distances, accommodations, keys for buses, trains, banks. Water in fountains in squares is not drinkable. I had written a me of book, which can be purchased at Gorlitz Tourist information, and another book, but I keep getting logged out of this forum and don’t see my draft being saved. And copy and pasted the information in it. This book, also has a QR code to download the map app. It didn’t work for me in Hiiker app or Map.me. Maybe it’s just me.
i was wrong. I wrote that the water in the village squares is not potable. Not drinkable. This is incorrect. Some German pilgrims and I were talking last night and it **is okay** to drink this water. I am sorry for the wrong information. And yesterday, the weather dropped 10 C and is expected to stay that way for a week. From a high of 29 or 31 C last week to this week of mostly
I suspect a spot where some pilgrims walk the wrong way: West from Strehla. Past Leckwitz. Past 500 meters. Veer right. Many go left. Do not head to street towards Clanzschwitz. A person outside their home, who was gardening, said many pilgrim go this wrong way! Which I did.

Also, just past Borin. I went the “wrong way.” One more tricky spot or intersection. Just outside Borin. Maybe 1 km past. There is a left turn off dirt road. At a 90 degree angle. But the marking of an OT obvious. It’s only when turning left for a one minute walk, that the clamshell is displayed.

Maybe next time, I will note the GPS.

And a good app for the weather in Germany is Warn Wetter. It gives weather based on your location, projects in detail when rain begins and ends. And how much. I believe it costs a few euros. If you want or need that much detail.
There are two places, where I felt there was a possibility to go the wrong way. Turn left here at this intersection. I tried several times to copy and paste the gps in the attached photo. It didn’t work for me. The clamshell is further on the road and not present at the intersection.
 

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