Via Francigena review

[Richard Schwartz]

I just hiked the beautiful Via Francigena in Italy, from San Miniato, near Florence, to Rome, encompassing 18 hiking days. Some perspective, I'm a Camino addict and a veteran of routes in Spain, France and Portugal.
I have mostly good things to say about the trip: the scenery, especially the hills of Tuscany, was outstanding and I can easily say it was consistently prettier than the other lovely Caminos I've walked. Similarly, there are beautiful ancient churches and medieval towns throughout the trek.
Also important, the signposting is excellent and frequent, just as good as the Camino Frances. The level of difficulty was about the same.
You've probably read elsewhere that there are very few fellow hikers on the Via Francigena, and that held true for me. At peak, I was with about 6 other walkers during a given day, yet I also went more than a week without seeing any.
I went with MacsAdventure, a UK outfit that reserves hotel rooms for you in advance (as opposed to hostels), and transports your big baggage inn to inn, allowing you to walk with just a daypack. I mention this because I can't speak firsthand on the availability of dormitory-type facilities.
However, I asked fellow walkers along the way about this and they said they were always able to find a bed but that the quality varied greatly. Several of these people began in Lausanne and one from Canterbury, England, which is the official start of the pilgrimage.
I was also told that the whole route in Italy was as gorgeous as in Tuscany.
All in all, a great experience, so much so that I'm planning to do a long northern leg in the next year or two.
I predict the Via Francigena, which has as much, if not more, to offer than the Camino de Santiago, will be a very well-traveled route as people become veterans of the other routes and seek further adventures. The Francigena, which started as early as the 7th century is actually several hundred years older than the Camino de Santiago...

 

[VSB]

I've walked the first portion, from Canterbury to Reims, en route to Santiago a couple of years ago (never being one to shy away from a detour...). That portion is not particularly lovely (though there are some bright spots) and very hard on the feet. It is, however, rich in history and culture and holds some of the best memories of my whole camino

 

[elizason]

I just hiked the beautiful Via Francigena in Italy, from San Miniato, near Florence, to Rome, encompassing 18 hiking days. Some perspective, I'm a Camino addict and a veteran of routes in Spain, France and Portugal.
I have mostly good things to say about the trip: the scenery, especially the hills of Tuscany, was outstanding and I can easily say it was consistently prettier than the other lovely Caminos I've walked. Similarly, there are beautiful ancient churches and medieval towns throughout the trek.
Also important, the signposting is excellent and frequent, just as good as the Camino Frances. The level of difficulty was about the same.
You've probably read elsewhere that there are very few fellow hikers on the Via Francigena, and that held true for me. At peak, I was with about 6 other walkers during a given day, yet I also went more than a week without seeing any.
I went with MacsAdventure, a UK outfit that reserves hotel rooms for you in advance (as opposed to hostels), and transports your big baggage inn to inn, allowing you to walk with just a daypack. I mention this because I can't speak firsthand on the availability of dormitory-type facilities.
However, I asked fellow walkers along the way about this and they said they were always able to find a bed but that the quality varied greatly. Several of these people began in Lausanne and one from Canterbury, England, which is the official start of the pilgrimage.
I was also told that the whole route in Italy was as gorgeous as in Tuscany.
All in all, a great experience, so much so that I'm planning to do a long northern leg in the next year or two.
I predict the Via Francigena, which has as much, if not more, to offer than the Camino de Santiago, will be a very well-traveled route as people become veterans of the other routes and seek further adventures. The Francigena, which started as early as the 7th century is actually several hundred years older than the Camino de Santiago...

Hello Richard,
I just finished Lisbon-Santiago and am ready for spring plans. Am very interested in Italy.
Do you know the best info guide out there ?
Thanks for any info,
Eliza

 

[William Marques]

Currently these are the best guides in English, they are very different but both good:
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/search/?keyword=via+francigena
http://pilgrimagepublications.com/pp_2014/via-francigena/

There are 2 books in the Cicerone series by Alison Raju - walking guides in Cicerone format.
Canterbury to St Bernard Pass, St Bernard Pass to Rome.

There are 3 books in the Pilgrim Publication series by Paul Chin and Babette Gallard - more pictures and GPS information available
Canterbury to Besancon, Besancon to Vercelli, Vercelli to Rome.

 

[NavyBlue]

Hello,

I have been happy in Italy with the Pilgrim publication guide ("Lightfoot guide"). It's available as e-book or paperback. You might also need some cultural information about the region, places to visit etc., not included in this guide.

The guide describes the way in a clever tabular form with GPS waypoints and comments. It gives also a clear description of the various alternative routes for a given stage.

Although you could do without a GPS, I recommend bringing one (dedicated unit or tablet) as the signs are sometimes missing or ambiguous (e.g. non directional signs posted between two roads).

A fair chunk of preliminary information can be found in the official VF site http://www.viefrancigene.org

Buon cammino !

 

[Magnara]

We walked from Besancon in France to Rome in 2010. It was fantastic, although we walked in October and November which meant a fair bit of rain. The upside is we had beautiful autumn colours the whole way. Across the mountains in southern Switzerland, down through Italy. Aah, bliss! We loved it and because so few people had done it then, and probably still compared to Spain, we were a novelty and an interest everywhere. When you get to Rome you are taken into the backrooms of the Vatican as an honoured pilgrim and get to sign the pilgrim book, while chatting to an elderly priest detailed to welcome you. It is a special feeling when the Swiss guards stand aside to let you through. So many people along the way had asked us to "say a prayer for us in St Peter's" that I really felt I had to honour it when I got there. We chopped a bit out - the flat rice plains sounded pretty dreary and we wanted to take a side trip to Venice, so we lopped off 200 km and rejoined it further along the way. We walked about 800 km in total. It is very different to the camino, not better or worse, different. We loved it.

 

[NavyBlue]

Hello,

When you get to Rome you are taken into the backrooms of the Vatican as an honoured pilgrim and get to sign the pilgrim book, while chatting to an elderly priest detailed to welcome you. It is a special feeling when the Swiss guards stand aside to let you through.

Looks like the procedure now (2015) has been much "simplified" : you pass an x-ray control, get a badge and proceed to a concierge booth, where you hand over your credential and get your testimonium five minutes later. That's all, probably because Don Bruno (the "elderly priest") is no longer around.

 

[Sailor]

Good information. Thanks everyone for the good information on La Via Francigena (oh by the way, I like the Via Francigena forum). Que la luz de Dios alumbre su camino.

 

[newfydog]

. When you get to Rome you are taken into the backrooms of the Vatican as an honoured pilgrim and get to sign the pilgrim book, while chatting to an elderly priest detailed to welcome you. It is a special feeling when the Swiss guards stand aside to let you through.

We just wanted a stamp in the credential, and they treated us like a real nuisance. My wife would not give up and finally found one person who would get us back there for a quick stamp before being thrown out.

 

[William Marques]

Like Magnara we had the full treatment from Don Bruno with a short tour of St Peters and prayers in the Clementine Chapel. I think things have quite a bit changed since then.

 

[NavyBlue]

Hello,

Submitting another review, globally consistent with Magnara's and Richard's ones.

Facts
Italian part, from Great-St-Bernard to Rome, in August and September 2015, with my dear wife.
46 walking days, no rest day or side trip. As a rule, we followed the official way and stages (with two additional stops to avoid walking 35 km or more), sometimes the "lazy" (but official) alternatives. We used various accommodation types, from pilgrim ostellos, either religious or not, to B&B and small hotels.

General impression
A great way, with really diverse landscapes, stunning monuments, nice people, fair weather, great cooking... And the unique city of Rome at the end.
More strenuous than the camino de Santiago either in France or in Spain, with several stages in the Roncesvalles or Cebreiro class, along with rough terrain.
Limited spirituality, few contacts with the local Church even in religious accommodation.

Better than expected (or unnecessary fears...) - certainly season related for some items
Contacts with other pilgrims, almost every day (noted 40 names).
Signalisation on 90% of the way. We gave priority to the brown sign posts and "fresh" official white/red/pilgrim adhesive tapes.
Natural risks such as fords (all nearly dry except one), snakes (seen three on roadsides, all dead).
Contacts with the locals, part of them still amazed by the long distance pilgrims ("Bravi! Complimenti!") and eager to help (route, water, fruit etc.).
Car drivers, generally careful. Some might even stop at pedestrian crossings...
Recent improvements on the way, as compared to documentation, with safe passage on side tracks in some previously dangerous areas.

So-so
Walking on the road in the traffic, for exiting Vercelli [or was it Piacenza?](5 km on the SS9 among cars and trucks) and entering Rome on the Via Trionfale. The rest of it was acceptable (in fair weather).
Fews signs in the Mortara area. You will have to use a compass or GPS tracks to find a way along the rice fields.
Dogs. As a rule, contained behind fences or on leash, with inconvenience limited to barking. But we bumped also into some aggressive ones (specially a team of three shepherd dogs in Lazio : a fellow pilgrim had to require a safe passage by car).
Trash ever present along roads. Italian, change your behaviour !
Lack of pedestrian-only areas in historic towns, too many cars to feel safe and relaxed.
Breakfasts, often limited or too late for an early start among heat waves. Got used to the "cappucino e due brioche" diet in bars...

Glad we had...
An (android) tablet with GPS, Locus Free app, OpenStreet maps, official GPS tracks (even if not 100% up to date) for doubt clearing in case of non-directional or missing signs.
The Lightfoot (e-)guide (3rd section). We got lost in a limited number of occasions, not for long, just because I did not walk "with the head in the book".
A high visibility vest for the above mentioned sections among traffic, or in the fog around Cisa pass.
Hiking sticks for rough terrain, descents on scree, reassurance among dogs...
A sheet bag (needed in most pilgrim accommodation) but no sleeping bag (useless in this season).
Learnt some transactional Italian for practical purposes, and exchange with the locals (your efforts will be highly appreciated. Just try to forget your Spanish if you know some, mixing both languages doesn't help!)

And if we did it again ?
We would add a stop in Nus to the Aoste-Chatillon stage : "only" 30 km, but with too many strenuous ups and downs for a third day.
Preparing better our stages (specially accommodation) in advance, for less "research" and more rest in the afternoons...

Great thanks
To all those who helped us before or on the way !

 

[Magnara]

Great info NavyBlue. I would add: those *** dogs!!! They welcome you from afar as you approach the village, fling themselves at the fences and continue barking madly as you leave. Long afterward we kicked ourselves not to have thought to have a pocketful of dog treats to fling over the fences, we think it would have given us a much quieter progress through the villages. And we had one attack on a road , with the owner just looking on amused. Another use for a trekking pole.
As to the route, then (2010) we would have walked a lot of roads without a gps which was invaluable. Sounds as if that has improved quite a bit since then, but we hardly walked any tarmac the whole way navigating with a gps.