Via de la Plata/Sanabres to Ourense or to Astorga? So confused!

MaxHelado · May 22, 2023

Can anyone give me some simple clarification on the Via de la Plata option?

It looks like after Granja de Moreruela I can swing left towards Oursense (and onto SdC) or head north to join the Frances at Astorga.
Are these both considered to be parts of the Via de la Plata? Or do they have different names?
Godesalco.com only seems to cover the Oursense option which makes me think that is the "real" VdlP.
Gronze seems to offer both as parts of the Via de la Plata.

Does one have better infrastructure than the other? More beautiful? Easier to walk?

I am getting so confused!

Bradypus · May 22, 2023

Not surprised you are confused. There are conflicting opinions all over the internet. My own understanding is that strictly speaking the Via de la Plata continues from Granja de Moruela to Astorga. But in practice the majority of those who have walked from Seville and other southern towns prefer to turn westward on to the Camino Sanabres and so reach Santiago via Ourense. The pilgrim office does not record arrivals from the Camino Sanabres separately and I think that walking either option will be recorded as "Via de la Plata".

Infrastructure? - much more infrastructure on the Camino Frances after Astorga. But also vastly greater numbers competing for it. On the Sanabres accommodation and food/drink are much more widely spaced and scarcer overall. If you want shorter stages and more options then go via Astorga.

Beautiful? - again hard to say. On the Frances after Astorga you have two magnificent mountainous sections to walk (Rabanal to Molinaseca and the O Cebreiro ascent/descent). But on the Sanabres you have comparable walking over a couple of passes as you enter Galicia and along a mountain ridge after A Gudiña. Personally I prefer the Sanabres but that might be because the times I have walked the route I have had it to myself.

MaxHelado · May 22, 2023

Bradypus said:
Not surprised you are confused. There are conflicting opinions all over the internet. My own understanding is that strictly speaking the Via de la Plata continues from Granja de Moruela to Astorga. But in practice the majority of those who have walked from Seville and other southern towns prefer to turn westward on to the Camino Sanabres and so reach Santiago via Ourense. The pilgrim office does not record arrivals from the Camino Sanabres separately and I think that walking either option will be recorded as "Via de la Plata".

Infrastructure? - much more infrastructure on the Camino Frances after Astorga. But also vastly greater numbers competing for it. On the Sanabres accommodation and food/drink are much more widely spaced and scarcer overall. If you want shorter stages and more options then go via Astorga.

Beautiful? - again hard to say. On the Frances after Astorga you have two magnificent mountainous sections to walk (Rabanal to Molinaseca and the O Cebreiro ascent/descent). But on the Sanabres you have comparable walking over a couple of passes as you enter Galicia and along a mountain ridge after A Gudiña. Personally I prefer the Sanabres but that might be because the times I have walked the route I have had it to myself.

Thank you, Bradypus, that helps me understand.
The comparison I really wanted was between the Sanabres to (say) Ourense or striking North to Astorga. Are they similar for infrastructure? Or is the northern route to the CF considered the Wild West of Caminos?

Bradypus · May 22, 2023

MaxHelado said:
Or is the northern route to the CF considered the Wild West of Caminos?

The section from Granja up through Benavente and La Bañeza is relatively little walked. I do most of my walking in winter and the albergues on that section have been closed so I have gone via Ourense both times I walked the VdlP. Granja to Astorga is far shorter than Granja to Ourense and from what I can see from Gronze and Google Maps it should be straightforward enough in the main season if you are willing to use hostals occasionally. I wouldn't expect much company though.

Flog · May 22, 2023

Walking north to Astorga is very quiet and you might have to make calls to arrange for keys or codes for the albergues. Private accomodation I don't know about, I didn't use. There isn't much infrastructure to Astorga but there is enough, it's strangely atmospheric and interesting, easy walking. I liked the disused victorian railway line towards Benavente

The Sanabres is the Sanabres, up into the mountains of Galicia. You can have the Sanabres recorded in writing on your distance cert if you wish.

MaxHelado · May 22, 2023

Thank you for your replies. Very clear and very helpful.

Robo · May 22, 2023

I walked that section North to Astorga.
It was nice. Particularly the sections on old railway lines.
I used mainly private accomodation i think.
There were a handful of Pilgrims.

If you head that way, i can highly recommend the Invierno.

If you don't mind being alone much of the time.

I had my own Albergue one night!

pelerine · May 23, 2023

I did VdlP/Sanabres one year and another year VdlP from Granja de Moreruela to Astorga followed by counterflow on the CF (my only ever CF experience, quite amusing) to Leon and from there continued on the Savador to Oviedo. Very enjoyable…

GraemeHall · May 23, 2023

I just completed the Via de la Plata/Sanabres last week. Mostly the scenery was lovely; there are some steep pinches; I generally stayed in municipal/Xunta albergues and it wasn't a problem.
Some towns/villages with albergues don't have dining options, so do some research and be prepared with your own food where necessary.

Blister Bill · May 23, 2023

Hi, the vdp ends in Astorga. I walked it this time last year and no alberques were open from Granja. Plenty of accommodation options though. We then came back and walked the Sanabres from Granja. You can also join the Sanabres from Benavente. I certainly would endorse walking to Leon and onto the San Salvador and down the primitivo and didn't think of it till I'd already committed to the Sanabres. One night in Astorga was enough to confirm the decision not to finish on the CF ! The Sanabres is lovely. Good luck with your planning !!

Guy Strachan · May 24, 2023

MaxHelado said:
Can anyone give me some simple clarification on the Via de la Plata option?

It looks like after Granja de Moreruela I can swing left towards Oursense (and onto SdC) or head north to join the Frances at Astorga.
Are these both considered to be parts of the Via de la Plata? Or do they have different names?
Godesalco.com only seems to cover the Oursense option which makes me think that is the "real" VdlP.
Gronze seems to offer both as parts of the Via de la Plata.

Does one have better infrastructure than the other? More beautiful? Easier to walk?

I am getting so confused!

Hi there - I walked the Sanabres from Ourense in 2018 and can highly recommend.
Lovely walking through beautiful countryside and not too much asphalt.
To suit my Octogenarian father we did 6 circa 20k days with stops in Cea; Castro Dozon;
Lalin; Silleda; and Ponte Ulla - with a lovely approach into Santiago on the final day.
If it was a choice between Sanabres or Frances I would always opt for the Sanabres.
My understanding is that this is the final section of the Via de la Plata.
Hope this helps & Buen Camino

MARSKA · Jan 28, 2024

Guy Strachan said:
Hi there - I walked the Sanabres from Ourense in 2018 and can highly recommend.
Lovely walking through beautiful countryside and not too much asphalt.
To suit my Octogenarian father we did 6 circa 20k days with stops in Cea; Castro Dozon;
Lalin; Silleda; and Ponte Ulla - with a lovely approach into Santiago on the final day.
If it was a choice between Sanabres or Frances I would always opt for the Sanabres.
My understanding is that this is the final section of the Via de la Plata.
Hope this helps & Buen Camino

Hello Guy! So if I understand correctly, Day 1(night 1) you stayed in Cea, Day 2 Castro Dozon, Day 3 Lain, Day 4 Silleda, Day 5 Ponte Ulla and Day 6 SDC?

May I ask where you started before Cea?

Thanks!

MileHighPair · Jan 28, 2024

MARSKA said:
Hello Guy! So if I understand correctly, Day 1(night 1) you stayed in Cea, Day 2 Castro Dozon, Day 3 Lain, Day 4 Silleda, Day 5 Ponte Ulla and Day 6 SDC?

May I ask where you started before Cea?

Thanks!

It looks like Guy walked from Ourense, only the last 100 km (or so) of the Sanabres/Vdlp. Also, if anyone is planning this route in 2024, the Castro Dozon albergue is closed, seemingly permanently.

camino07 · Jan 29, 2024

Castro Dozen could certainly do with some accommodation. It's either walk on to A laxe or taxi or bus.
In 2022 the husband at the first cafe was the taxi driver.

Blister Bill · Jan 29, 2024

camino07 said:
Castro Dozen could certainly do with some accommodation. It's either walk on to A laxe or taxi or bus.
In 2022 the husband at the first cafe was the taxi driver.

Or split the difference with a slight deviation to Lalin for the night and follow the marked route out in the morning

Lindsay53 · Jan 29, 2024

camino07 said:
Castro Dozen could certainly do with some accommodation. It's either walk on to A laxe or taxi or bus.
In 2022 the husband at the first cafe was the taxi driver.

Or head to the monastery in Osiera. A 32k walk from Ourense but well worth it. 30k the next day from Osiera to A Laxe.

Guy Strachan · Feb 9, 2024

MARSKA said:
Hello Guy! So if I understand correctly, Day 1(night 1) you stayed in Cea, Day 2 Castro Dozon, Day 3 Lain, Day 4 Silleda, Day 5 Ponte Ulla and Day 6 SDC?

May I ask where you started before Cea?

Thanks!

Hi Marska,
That’s correct - for the Castro Dozon night we actually stayed at Casa Casarellos nearby (they do a pick up & drop off service)
We started our walk in Ourense
Hope this helps
Buen Camino!
Guy

Camino Chrissy · Feb 9, 2024

Guy Strachan said:
for the Castro Dozon night we actually stayed at Casa Casarellos nearby (they do a pick up & drop off service)

In planning for our spring Sanabres Camino, I have also made a reservation at Casa Casarellos due to Castro Dozen being closed.
My son and I are actually starting from Rionegro del Puente after several tourist days first in Salamanca and Zamora.

JillGat · Feb 23, 2024

Blister Bill said:
Or split the difference with a slight deviation to Lalin for the night and follow the marked route out in the morning

What is the walking distance Oseira to Lalin? I've looked at all my resources and can't figure it out.

VNwalking · Feb 23, 2024

JillGat said:
What is the walking distance Oseira to Lalin? I've looked at all my resources and can't figure it out.

OSMand says this:

ginniek · Feb 23, 2024

I'm a major fan of soaking in hot springs, and any route/trail/path/whatever that will take me to soak in some is the correct one. Seriously, Ourense has been a hot mineral water bathing destination for thousands of years. I've been several times (it's also a quick train ride from SdC). No matter what you may hear here or read on Ourense's never-updated website, they are open and the best ones are free.

JillGat · Feb 23, 2024

I wonder why Gerald Kelly and Gronze don't have this route mentioned? Here is my two week plan for my daughter and me (and can add extra days for layovers. Any corrections or feedback?

	Sanabres Stages
Day	Start	Destination	Kilometers

1	Puebla Sanabria	Requejo	12

2	Requejo	Lubian	18

3	Lubian	La Gudina	23

4	La Gudina	Campobecerros	20

5	Campobecerros	Laza	14.6

6	Laza	Vilar do Barrio	19

7	Vilar do Barrio	Xunqueira de Ambia	14.2

8	Xunqueira de Ambia	Ourense	22.1

9	Ourense	Cea	21.6

10	Cea	Oseira	8.6

11	0seira	Estacion de Lalin	22

12	Estacion de Lalin	Bandeira	22

13	Bandeira	Outeiro	17.5

14	Outeiro	Santiago	17

JillGat · Feb 23, 2024

VNwalking said:
OSMand says this:
View attachment 164781

Is that blue line improvised, or is it a marked camino?

Camino Chrissy · Feb 23, 2024

Jill, your stages look good to me, although my plans after Botos are to stay in Silleda 15.9k, then Eiravedra 21.7k, finishing up in Santiago another 20k.

peregrina2000 · Feb 23, 2024

I may have already said this to you in another thread, @JillGat, sorry if that’s the case, because I’m not trying to beat you over the head with it. But I very highly recommend the alternative river path into Ourense rather than staying on the camino and its industrial entrance to the city. With help from @Ribeirasacra, who lives nearby, we plotted it out. It’s easy to find — just turn left at the Peugeot building! And you will wind up in As Burgas, another spot in town with thermal baths. From there it’s all in the city and is a very nice entrance.

Camino Chrissy · Feb 23, 2024

peregrina2000 said:
But I very highly recommend the alternative river path into Ourense rather than staying on the camino and its industrial entrance to the city

Laurie, I recall you mentioning this, too, and we will plan to do exactly that! Thank you for some great tips for the Sanabres. I am taking a 1.5 hour bus ride from Zamora to Mombuey before starting the Sanabres, but now hope to get off the bus in or near Rionegro del Puente to stay in the nice albergue, BUT the big draw is having a meal or two at "Me Gusto Comer"; absolutely every tip and everything I read says it is fabulous and a "must do". I had no reservation in Mombuey anyway as only an albergue was listed. The drawback is walking farther after leaving Rionegro the following morning.

Blister Bill · Feb 25, 2024

JillGat said:
What is the walking distance Oseira to Lalin? I've looked at all my resources and can't figure it out.

JillGat said:
Is that blue line improvised, or is it a marked camino?

Hi Jill, because of the pressure on accommodation we walked to A Xesta on the camino then just followed some minor roads. They are not marked by arrows. At A Xesta followed the PO 902 then Rua da Penela to the roundabout and then into town and the Albergue. Just a bit over 5km by my record and was a really nice walk. One of our group taxied form Estacion and back again the next morning but hopefully gives you some accommodation (and food) options and only deviates slightly from the marked route. Lovely walk out the next morning following the marked route and the river as it is the tail end of the Invierno.

Via de la Plata/Sanabres to Ourense or to Astorga? So confused!

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