LIVE from the Camino Via de la Plata -March 30-April 22, 2017

[Anemone del Camino]

Camino number 7 begins. This time not for 3 weeks, but for 6, a one in a working-lifetime opportunity in between jobs. So it will be Via de la Plata for three weeks, then the Invierno to Santiago, and then ... drumroll ... the San Salvador. Of course, all this, if joints, tendons and muscules cooperate.

I left Montreal on the 9pm flight, arriving Malaga just before 10am. At 550$ for the dirwct flight, surely it was a sign. Or maybe the fact that I showed up at the Montreal airport with a Canadian passport that will expire in less than three months is also,a,sign, and time will tell. It never occured to me to check the expiration date of that passport, but I had checked the Spanish one, and knew that one was good to go. Never have I been so happy to,have dual citizenship!

Got to watch La La Land and Manchester by the Sea, arrived in Malaga and found a Lebara cell phone kiosk in the airport's main hall. Having learned about Lebara on the Forum, I did not hesitate, and left the aiport 20€ lighter, with 1G and 100 local minutes to my name, ready to book a bed when needed (Easter is around the corner) but more importantly give those left back home some peace of mind knowing they can contact me in case of emergency, and also for renovation questions as i have left my house in the capable hands of contractor and interior designer, at about 3/4 of a complete redo of the basement, electric, plumbing, new bathroom, the works... Yes, I needed this walk.

So, less about my life left behind, more about what may useful to others. Mind you, if I can leave for 6 weeks in the middle of such a reno, perhaps others who think they simply cannot abandon their home life to,walk the Caminos will be inspired. "Let it go, let it go" ... can't you just hear the Frozen theme song?

Walked out of Malaga airport, Sim card activated, walked around the Alsa and other tourist service kiosks facing the main entrance and found the bus stop for the Urbano A bus that goes into the city, and in particular to the main bus station, all for 3€ and in 30 minutes or so.Mid-morning an A bus runs every 20 minutes.

Arrived at the main bus depot at 11:30 or so, walked into the terminal to,see from which "alden" thenbus to Sevilla left from, and went back out to wait for it. Imhad bought my ticket at home, in line, 3 weeks ago or so for 23€ (the noon bus is a Supra, so a bit more expensive than regular Alsa buses). Punctual as ever, we left the bus station, with the included magadalena sponge cake and bottle of water.

As it was around 2pm, or lunch time, as we neared Sevilla, there was a hitmof traffic coming into the city. But the bus found the bus station, I went upstairs to the main hall and asked the name of the bridge next to the station. Not the one I needed to cross, I needed to the cross the Isabel II bridge, some 500 meters later. And so I did.
On my way to the bridge I passes by a number of tattoo shops, but also by a mountain equipment type shop, with a large yellow shell on blue background, aka Camino logo in this era of consumerism, so, if you have left a pair os socks at home, they may be able to help you. I do not advise on a freshly inked tattoo the day before heading out on a Camino...

The Isabel II bridge is the city's fist steel bridge. It takes you into the lovely, old, artsy neighbourhood of Triana. Lots of restaurants, a market, flamenco dancing schools, and the Triana Backpackers Hostel, where my bed awaits. I find it after a 10 minute walk from the bus station. Very convinient.

15€ including breakfast gives me a bed in a room with 5 girls, access to a number of full bathrooms (1 of everything behind a locked door), access to a kitchen, computers and a terrace. The building is a traditional house, built around an atrium. This is the south of Spain after all: we welcome the elements, the sun!

A credencial can be purchased at the albergue for 2€, and it comes prestamoed by the VDLP Camino Association. One less thing for me to do in the afternoon /evening.

The receptionish suggested a restaurant a few blocks away for the menu del dia: Meso los Arcores and its 8€ fixed price. Imhad the freshly made salpicon de camarones, the mero a la plancha (came with lettuce and tomato) and while I could have chozen a brownie, flan, puding de fruta and other delicioush desert options, I had two mandarinas, and a glass of rioja.

On my way to the Meson I stopped at Dia to buy a liquid in a large plastic bottle to fill with water tomorrow. Dia now sells its private lable version of Aquarius for a third of the price, but also prepackaged quality meals for under 3€, such as Pistou, spinach and cickpea stew or all,the ingredients needed to make a veggie and quinoa soup. Yeah! Yummy, healthy and inexpensive alternatives to the pilgrim menu.

Oddly enough, it was quite a chore ordering a straight glass of wine. The waitress kept asking if I wanted my wine with lemon, gaseosa, etc. Ah, but the south of Spain is where you do not out yourself as a silly tourist when asking for a sangria, but I stuck with the pure Rioja.

Well fed, I made my way to the cathedral for a visit, amd a stamp. I always like yo start with a stamp from the local church where I leave from. But as I asked where to get a stamp I am informed the cathedral closes at 5pm.What?! We eat from 3-4:30 and you close at 5? How can we do both at the same time? I guess they have adapted to the tourists' meal schedule... I am disappointed because while I am not in awe of cathedrals just because they are cathedrals, this one's history and architecture are well worth getting to learn about.

Finally, a security person in the chapel whose door gives out on the main drag,stamped my credencial, and as I started making my way back to my bunk I found my first VDLP shell,at the corner of the street.

Walked back passing the beautiful bull fighting ring, across the Isabella II bridge again, for a nap. Put ky head down at 5:30, woke up,just now around 11pm. It wilsoon be time to sleep again as I remember CClarely's blog and how much she struggled in her first few VDLP days trying to get over jet lag.

Plus, my feet already hurt. Could not wait to take off trail runners after the long flight and walk in my EVA Arizona Birkenstocks. Tomorrw, I will do as Clare suggested, and bus to Santiponce, by passing Camas, visiting the monastery there, and walk from there to Guinella.

Oh, did I say that my pack weighed in at 7.7kg at the airport! I am so proud of myself, especially because this includes umbrella, Altus, rain pants, and all sorts of,stuff to keep platar fasciitis at bay.

Finally, to,those wondering if a small lock is useful: I already used mine at the Triana Albergue where there are small lockers in the bedrooms.

 

[mspath]

Anemone,

Now at last you are truly on your way! Looking forward to reading your new posts as your journey progresses.
Stay safe and Buen camino!

 

[Deleted member 43985]

Thank you for sharing with such detail. I especially loved to hear that Diá is making it much, much easier to eat a healthy meal at the Albergue. I will keep that tip in my memory bank for sure and look forward to reading of your adventures.
Buen Camino!

 

[VNwalking]

Buen Camino, Anemone. I'm happy for you!
And hope you managed to find all your Camino stuff in the end.
Take care of those feet and legs and may you have a grand walk.

 

[IngridF]

Buen Camino...love your post

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Anemone, really looking forward to hearing from you. Sounds like you had a very painless transition from life to camino -- no delays, no missed connections, all just flowing like Santiago is watching out for you! Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Another healthy alternative from the grocery store, especially as the weather gets warmer, is gazpacho in a box. Much better quality than "wine in a box" and much more refreshing and nutritious.

 

[SYates]

Looking forward to reading more! Buen Camino, SY

 

[NualaOC]

6 weeks and three Caminos - wow, lucky you. Wishing you well and looking forward to your posts.

Buen Camino!

 

[Ko.Z]

Camino number 7 begins. This time not for 3 weeks, but for 6, a one in a working-lifetime opportunity in between jobs. So it will be Via de la Plata for three weeks, then the Invierno to Santiago, and then ... drumroll ... the San Salvador. Of course, all this, if joints, tendons and muscules cooperate.

I left Montreal on the 9pm flight, arriving Malaga just before 10am. At 550$ for the dirwct flight, surely it was a sign. Or maybe the fact that I showed up at the Montreal airport with a Canadian passport that will expire in less than three months is also,a,sign, and time will tell. It never occured to me to check the expiration date of that passport, but I had checked the Spanish one, and knew that one was good to go. Never have I been so happy to,have dual citizenship!

Got to watch La La Land and Manchester by the Sea, arrived in Malaga and found a Lebara cell phone kiosk in the airport's main hall. Having learned about Lebara on the Forum, I did not hesitate, and left the aiport 20€ lighter, with 1G and 100 local minutes to my name, ready to book a bed when needed (Easter is around the corner) but more importantly give those left back home some peace of mind knowing they can contact me in case of emergency, and also for renovation questions as i have left my house in the capable hands of contractor and interior designer, at about 3/4 of a complete redo of the basement, electric, plumbing, new bathroom, the works... Yes, I needed this walk.

So, less about my life left behind, more about what may useful to others. Mind you, if I can leave for 6 weeks in the middle of such a reno, perhaps others who think they simply cannot abandon their home life to,walk the Caminos will be inspired. "Let it go, let it go" ... can't you just hear the Frozen theme song?

Walked out of Malaga airport, Sim card activated, walked around the Alsa and other tourist service kiosks facing the main entrance and found the bus stop for the Urbano A bus that goes into the city, and in particular to the main bus station, all for 3€ and in 30 minutes or so.Mid-morning an A bus runs every 20 minutes.

Arrived at the main bus depot at 11:30 or so, walked into the terminal to,see from which "alden" thenbus to Sevilla left from, and went back out to wait for it. Imhad bought my ticket at home, in line, 3 weeks ago or so for 23€ (the noon bus is a Supra, so a bit more expensive than regular Alsa buses). Punctual as ever, we left the bus station, with the included magadalena sponge cake and bottle of water.

As it was around 2pm, or lunch time, as we neared Sevilla, there was a hitmof traffic coming into the city. But the bus found the bus station, I went upstairs to the main hall and asked the name of the bridge next to the station. Not the one I needed to cross, I needed to the cross the Isabel II bridge, some 500 meters later. And so I did.
On my way to the bridge I passes by a number of tattoo shops, but also by a mountain equipment type shop, with a large yellow shell on blue background, aka Camino logo in this era of consumerism, so, if you have left a pair os socks at home, they may be able to help you. I do not advise on a freshly inked tattoo the day before heading out on a Camino...

The Isabel II bridge is the city's fist steel bridge. It takes you into the lovely, old, artsy neighbourhood of Triana. Lots of restaurants, a market, flamenco dancing schools, and the Triana Backpackers Hostel, where my bed awaits. I find it after a 10 minute walk from the bus station. Very convinient.

15€ including breakfast gives me a bed in a room with 5 girls, access to a number of full bathrooms (1 of everything behind a locked door), access to a kitchen, computers and a terrace. The building is a traditional house, built around an atrium. This is the south of Spain after all: we welcome the elements, the sun!

A credencial can be purchased at the albergue for 2€, and it comes prestamoed by the VDLP Camino Association. One less thing for me to do in the afternoon /evening.

The receptionish suggested a restaurant a few blocks away for the menu del dia: Meso los Arcores and its 8€ fixed price. Imhad the freshly made salpicon de camarones, the mero a la plancha (came with lettuce and tomato) and while I could have chozen a brownie, flan, puding de fruta and other delicioush desert options, I had two mandarinas, and a glass of rioja.

On my way to the Meson I stopped at Dia to buy a liquid in a large plastic bottle to fill with water tomorrow. Dia now sells its private lable version of Aquarius for a third of the price, but also prepackaged quality meals for under 3€, such as Pistou, spinach and cickpea stew or all,the ingredients needed to make a veggie and quinoa soup. Yeah! Yummy, healthy and inexpensive alternatives to the pilgrim menu.

Oddly enough, it was quite a chore ordering a straight glass of wine. The waitress kept asking if I wanted my wine with lemon, gaseosa, etc. Ah, but the south of Spain is where you do not out yourself as a silly tourist when asking for a sangria, but I stuck with the pure Rioja.

Well fed, I made my way to the cathedral for a visit, amd a stamp. I always like yo start with a stamp from the local church where I leave from. But as I asked where to get a stamp I am informed the cathedral closes at 5pm.What?! We eat from 3-4:30 and you close at 5? How can we do both at the same time? I guess they have adapted to the tourists' meal schedule... I am disappointed because while I am not in awe of cathedrals just because they are cathedrals, this one's history and architecture are well worth getting to learn about.

Finally, a security person in the chapel whose door gives out on the main drag,stamped my credencial, and as I started making my way back to my bunk I found my first VDLP shell,at the corner of the street.

Walked back passing the beautiful bull fighting ring, across the Isabella II bridge again, for a nap. Put ky head down at 5:30, woke up,just now around 11pm. It wilsoon be time to sleep again as I remember CClarely's blog and how much she struggled in her first few VDLP days trying to get over jet lag.

Plus, my feet already hurt. Could not wait to take off trail runners after the long flight and walk in my EVA Arizona Birkenstocks. Tomorrw, I will do as Clare suggested, and bus to Santiponce, by passing Camas, visiting the monastery there, and walk from there to Guinella.

Oh, did I say that my pack weighed in at 7.7kg at the airport! I am so proud of myself, especially because this includes umbrella, Altus, rain pants, and all sorts of,stuff to keep platar fasciitis at bay.

Finally, to,those wondering if a small lock is useful: I already used mine at the Triana Albergue where there are small lockers in the bedrooms.

Hi Anemone
You are very well on your way!!! Will be following your Camino experience everyday. Buen Camino. Ko.Z

 

[drvnsmiln]

One day behind you; I head out tomorrow morning early. I was able to attend Mass this morning at 8 o'clock in the main part of the cathedral (side altar. ) It was so cool to be able to be in this huge Cathedral and there was almost nobody there. I have spent the last two days playing tourist here there is a lot to see!
Buen Camino. Maybe we will meet on the trail!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

One day behind you; I head out tomorrow morning early. I was able to attend Mass this morning at 8 o'clock in the main part of the cathedral (side altar. ) It was so cool to be able to be in this huge Cathedral and there was almost nobody there. I have spent the last two days playing tourist here there is a lot to see!
Buen Camino. Maybe we will meet on the trail!

I will have to come back to visit the Cathedral. And I'm sure we'll cross paths as I plan on some short days in order to never have any over 25km.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Day 2 - Sevilla to Guillena.

I followed CClarely's advice and took the bus from Sevilla to Santiponce, a Sevilla suburb.

For those who don't and may be staying in the albergue in Triana. Realise that you don't have to go to the cathedral and "start" from there as the arrows will take you back to the albergue. Just head out to the Isabella II bridge and take a left along the river, not crossing the river.

You want an easier first day? (I woke up all puffy and tired from jet lag) Then take the M170A bus at the main bus station, the one where the bus from Sevilla arrives. Directions gave me the impression it was a regular city bus that would have a stop on a street, but while,it's a regular city bus, its starting point is at the main bus depot. 1.55€ .

Drove through Camas, a working / semi industrial neighbourhood, then arrived in Santiponce and detoured to visit the monastery, but it only opens at 10am on weekdays. Having taken the 9am bus I got there ar 9:30 and decided not to wait.

Took the main road into the center of town and all of a sudden I was on the Camino, with bars and small fruit shops everywhere. Bought a bottle of water with the right size lid for my Smartube and had a gorgeous egg and serrano omlet and a veru strong cafe con leche for 4€, shared with a couple from Switzerland.

From there the arrows are very easy to find until Guillena. After leaving town, at a large and busy round about that connects with highways you end up,walking on one of those pre-pavement roads build for tractors. Super flat, a nice comfy walk for the feet, with rolloung minihills here and there, just enough to distract you while not increasing cardiac rate.

Finally got to the infamous arroyo. I had imagined a wide ditch, down a steep embankment, but it's basically an area where said prepavement path gets covered with water after it rains. Keep your eyes to the right as that is where the Association has laid down a few planks of wood to get tou around, and out of the mud. Not all who came behind me saw it and they got into some 6 inches of mud. Hospy said that a few days ago pilgrims had water up to their chest!

When you pass the arroyo you have another 4 km or so to go. Having heard that the muni is closed (it is) and knowing the private has only 18 beds, I called to confirm the booking I had tried to do online a few weeks ago. They asked when I would arrive, told them I was just past the arroyo resting my feet and would be there in 2 hours. "Oh, it only takes 1 hour from there" they said. "Not for me, I'm slow and taking it easy, 2 hours". And two hours later, in plastic Birkenstocks and not in Salomons, I arrived in Guillena, having opted to walk along the highway for the last 2 km or so.

Private albergue is perfect. Lovely German hospy at the moment, individual bathrooms, room I'm in has 6 beds, laundry by hand on the roof top terrace, free wife and a lounge. 10€. 2€ more if you want breakfast. I never have albergue breakfasts. Bedding with synthetic duvet is included, as kt was last night in Triana.

Albergue is full, but apparently they add mattresses and even put people in a separate house when there is overflow.

Asked where to bave a menu del dia post shower and laundry at 3 pm. Was sent to the Pensionneers Residence and the food is excellent. The restaurant is located in part of the old folks home but is ran separately, and apparently belongs to the town. Husband and wife team run it and they are lovely. Wife is actually very funny.

For 6€ I had a large (don't use huge anymore... ) red cabbage salad followed by grilled boquerones ( anchovies) served with either fries or salad; I had salad. They will soon start offering gazpacho as well as a first dish. Desert was flan, areoz con leche, ice cream or coffee. And the price also included a drink: I ordered a glass of cold beer.

Feet hurt. I regret not bringing my Hoka One Ones but I didn't think they would last all the walking I am planning on this time. I am considering javing them UPSed to somewhere, but by then the Invierno and Salvador will be ahead of me. Should have brought Hokas for now, amd shipped Salomons to Ponferrada for the other two routes.

Oh, @peregrina2000 , I had lunch with a Spaniard who started to walk the Invierno last August and did not like it. He acknowledges the heat may have affected his assesment of that route, but ...

Oh well... one day at a time. Tomorrow 18 km to Castilblanco de los Arrojos.

Any questions?

 

[movinmaggie]

I do have some concerns when you re-enter Canada without the required expiration date on your passport....But best of luck and Buen Camino(s).

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I do have some concerns when you re-enter Canada without the required expiration date on your passport....But best of luck and Buen Camino(s).

Will deal with that when I try to come home. What can they do? Send me back to Spain for free?

 

[peregrina2000]

Will deal with that when I try to come home. What can they do? Send me back to Spain for free?

IF (and maybe that's a big if, I suppose) Canadian immigration is anything like American immigation, you won't have a problem. I had the same problem a few years ago, only a few more months on my US passport when I left. I decided not to try to enter Spain with the US passport because I had a vague memory of this, so luckily I was able to pull out my Irish passport.

Coming home to the US, I asked the immigration guy about the issue and he told me that I could get into the country even if my US passport were expired since it still proves I'm a US citizen. But I wouldn't want to test the veracity of that statement.

Day 2 - Sevilla to Guillena.

Oh, @peregrina2000 , I had lunch with a Spaniard who started to walk the Invierno last August and did not like it. He acknowledges the heat may have affected his assesment of that route, but ...

Oh well... one day at a time. Tomorrow 18 km to Castilblanco de los Arrojos.

Any questions?

I am actually glad to hear that there is SOMEONE out there who does not like the Invierno, otherwise it seems like all of us on the forum have been hypnotized or drank the coolaid given to us by Invierno aliens. Did this guy say why?

Great to be following you, Anemone, hope the weather stays good for you, Laurie

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for the great reminder of where I was just a week ago. Otherwise I cannot remember anything, as I am on CST (Camino Slow Time). I am in Valdesalor having a wonderful time. Buen Camino!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thanks for the great reminder of where I was just a week ago. Otherwise I cannot remember anything, as I am on CST (Camino Slow Time). I am in Valdesalor having a wonderful time. Buen Camino!

Clare, which route did you take leaving Guinella? Hospy says the officiL way staets by going through an iffy neighbourhood, not a good idea for a woman walking alone. He suggests I go up the road by where the hopsice and Dia are and eventially connect with the Camino later on.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Do tell us if th

Oh well... one day at a time. Tomorrow 18 km to Castilblanco de los Arrojos.
Any questions?

Yes. Is the water pump still there on the track to Castilblanco? I might need it in a couple of months time.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Do tell us if th


Yes. Is the water pump still there on the track to Castilblanco? I might need it in a couple of months time.

It's there and very well marked bit not working today... I brought 3 liters with me and used it very carefully and ran out 500 meters from town.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Guinella-Castilblanco: 18km

Sitting on the terrace of Casa Macarena enjoying a delicious, amd original, menue del dia (8€): salmorejo (cold tomato cream soup, a typical andalucian dish) followed by a home made dish that resembles moussaka. For desert, torrejas, as Easter is fast approaching. One of my best meals in Spain ever. Casa Macarena is on the plaza of Castilblanco, about 300 meter down the main street down from the municipal albergue. It also opens at 4am on weekdays, 6 tomorrow Sunday.

I am pooped! While the bulk of the walk was beautiful, there is no water available after the 3rd or 4th km. I drank my 3 liters very carefully, and despite today being a sunny days with about 23 C and a breeze, I could have used more water. The hand pump in a field at the midway point is well marked, but was not working today.

How to leave Guillena. I don't get it: guides give confusing info, as did the hospy. It really is simple. When you leave the private albergue La Luz, with your back to the albergue, take a left and walk up the street exactly like you would have done the evening before to eat at the pensionners' place or to shop at Dia.

As you reach the first split in the road (Dia to the left, pensionners' place to the right) go left and pass the Dia.

You walk through town and pass shops until you find yourself at a large intersection and another split. This time keep your righ. This will take you to a large bridgeand onto the National road.

While the arrows have disappeared, keep walking along the National, with traffic facing you. Keep walking. In the distance, you may see a lit green sign resembling a BP sign. That is where you are headed.

At one point ypu will have the optionto leave the National but walking across a chainlinked fence and find yourself in the parking area of a cluster of warehouses. You will notice a Coca Cola sign: this is your last chance to get food and water. Freshly squeezed oranje juice was delicious.

Keep walking straigh for another 150 meters or so, and turn left on what I think is Artesanias street, before passing. Said green sign. You will pass more warehouses and eventually walk through a chain link fence: you did it! From that point on arrows are plentiful.

Fist 4 km after that are typical Camino Frances tractor paths, rocks, and deep ditches where one can imagine the torrential rainsthat caused them.

And then heaven. A manicured lawn and fields for a heard of cows. When you corss into this section, you do so walking over a metal grid. A sign to your right says you are 11km from Castilnlanco. The grounds are beautiful, the cows zen.

Ok, so the ground because difficult again, uneven and with rocks, but the views are splendid. All sort of flowers to be seen as well. And you keep going, and going, you see the signs for the fountain, but today ot was not working.

You keep going, and at last, after passing a different breed cows, therés the entrace to a property where you have shade, a semi-decent rock to sit on, and ground to have a nap on, but be careful, last year's dry thistle is prickly.

You are about 1 km from a road crossing, and a sign that says ypu have another 6.9kmto go. So you go. For 3 km. Then you find the main road into Castilblanco, and maniac drivers. Good thing the path is a few feet to the side of the road. 4 km to go along that road. Of course the last km is uphill.

Albergue is easy to find. Current hopies are very nice volunteers. Albergue is full, despite many people opting to stay at the laege hotel at the entrance of town.

Guidebook says tomorrow is 30km. It's wrong: taxi pick up os reserved for 4 of us at 8 am to skip the 16 km of highway walking to the entrance of another park/dehesa. With some luck we get to see Pata Negra pigs!

4:30: time to head back up the road to the albergue to do laundry. I just did not have the strength to do it before eating, a first in all my walks. Bring lots of water and food for this stretch, your body will thank you.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

It's there and very well marked bit not working today... I brought 3 liters with me and used it very carefully and ran out 500 meters from town.

Anemone, I don't know how to direct you to an old thread, so search "Did you prime the pump". I think I should have mentioned this yesterday.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Guinella-Castilblanco: 18km

I just did not have the strength to do it before eating, a first in all my walks. Bring lots of water and food for this stretch, your body will thank you.

...and on that, save some water for El Calvario tomorrow. Buen Camino!

 

[Paddy Brock]

Day 2 - Sevilla to Guillena.

I followed CClarely's advice and took the bus from Sevilla to Santiponce, a Sevilla suburb.

For those who don't and may be staying in the albergue in Triana. Realise that you don't have to go to the cathedral and "start" from there as the arrows will take you back to the albergue. Just head out to the Isabella II bridge and take a left along the river, not crossing the river.

You want an easier first day? (I woke up all puffy and tired from jet lag) Then take the M170A bus at the main bus station, the one where the bus from Sevilla arrives. Directions gave me the impression it was a regular city bus that would have a stop on a street, but while,it's a regular city bus, its starting point is at the main bus depot. 1.55€ .

Drove through Camas, a working / semi industrial neighbourhood, then arrived in Santiponce and detoured to visit the monastery, but it only opens at 10am on weekdays. Having taken the 9am bus I got there ar 9:30 and decided not to wait.

Took the main road into the center of town and all of a sudden I was on the Camino, with bars and small fruit shops everywhere. Bought a bottle of water with the right size lid for my Smartube and had a gorgeous egg and serrano omlet and a veru strong cafe con leche for 4€, shared with a couple from Switzerland.

From there the arrows are very easy to find until Guillena. After leaving town, at a large and busy round about that connects with highways you end up,walking on one of those pre-pavement roads build for tractors. Super flat, a nice comfy walk for the feet, with rolloung minihills here and there, just enough to distract you while not increasing cardiac rate.

Finally got to the infamous arroyo. I had imagined a wide ditch, down a steep embankment, but it's basically an area where said prepavement path gets covered with water after it rains. Keep your eyes to the right as that is where the Association has laid down a few planks of wood to get tou around, and out of the mud. Not all who came behind me saw it and they got into some 6 inches of mud. Hospy said that a few days ago pilgrims had water up to their chest!

When you pass the arroyo you have another 4 km or so to go. Having heard that the muni is closed (it is) and knowing the private has only 18 beds, I called to confirm the booking I had tried to do online a few weeks ago. They asked when I would arrive, told them I was just past the arroyo resting my feet and would be there in 2 hours. "Oh, it only takes 1 hour from there" they said. "Not for me, I'm slow and taking it easy, 2 hours". And two hours later, in plastic Birkenstocks and not in Salomons, I arrived in Guillena, having opted to walk along the highway for the last 2 km or so.

Private albergue is perfect. Lovely German hospy at the moment, individual bathrooms, room I'm in has 6 beds, laundry by hand on the roof top terrace, free wife and a lounge. 10€. 2€ more if you want breakfast. I never have albergue breakfasts. Bedding with synthetic duvet is included, as kt was last night in Triana.

Albergue is full, but apparently they add mattresses and even put people in a separate house when there is overflow.

Asked where to bave a menu del dia post shower and laundry at 3 pm. Was sent to the Pensionneers Residence and the food is excellent. The restaurant is located in part of the old folks home but is ran separately, and apparently belongs to the town. Husband and wife team run it and they are lovely. Wife is actually very funny.

For 6€ I had a large (don't use huge anymore... ) red cabbage salad followed by grilled boquerones ( anchovies) served with either fries or salad; I had salad. They will soon start offering gazpacho as well as a first dish. Desert was flan, areoz con leche, ice cream or coffee. And the price also included a drink: I ordered a glass of cold beer.

Feet hurt. I regret not bringing my Hoka One Ones but I didn't think they would last all the walking I am planning on this time. I am considering javing them UPSed to somewhere, but by then the Invierno and Salvador will be ahead of me. Should have brought Hokas for now, amd shipped Salomons to Ponferrada for the other two routes.

Oh, @peregrina2000 , I had lunch with a Spaniard who started to walk the Invierno last August and did not like it. He acknowledges the heat may have affected his assesment of that route, but ...

Oh well... one day at a time. Tomorrow 18 km to Castilblanco de los Arrojos.

Any questions?

 

[Paddy Brock]

Love your post , have a great Camino , cant wait to follow you on 26th April, will take advice re bus to Santiponce

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, I don't know how to direct you to an old thread, so search "Did you prime the pump". I think I should have mentioned this yesterday.

I will have to look it up, for next time .

 

[Anemone del Camino]

...and on that, save some water for El Calvario tomorrow. Buen Camino!

3 liters packed, and a bocadillo from the local bar which does not close at all on weekend. 7:45 and clients are still orderinf Cutty Sark!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Taxi to the entrance of the park with three others. Arranged the afternoon before, and 25€. This morning others were trying to get a taxi, and because the driver had to take a pilgrim to the hospital, the girl at the bar found another willing driver, but non official taxi, for...40€. They found out upon arrival ag the park, so they were not happy campers. In fact the taxi driver and the second driver got into an argument over this. Another "non official driver" took two other people, and charged them 5€ each. Lesson of the day: ask about prices before booking.

For those who have heard of the 16km walking along a highway to get to the park, it's not a highway but a country road, and certainly not drab and industrial as I had imagined.

The walk through the park is ideal. Rolling hills, beautiful landscape, a few cows, and one bull. Some shade, lots of spring flowers blooming, and frogs signing. And then... there's the hillat the end. In allmy Caminos this is the steepest I have encountered. Thankfully it is short. So up I went, 20. Steps or so at a time, stopping to catch my breath when I found a flat surface.

At about 75% of the way, I heard noises comming down. It was the young boy on his "transition programme" comming to give me a hand. Hand on my backpack he started pushing "the granny" up the hill. Granny he calls me!

Beautiful views from the top, and then the urbanised path into town, all with beautiful views of the village as well, and my first black pigs, but in a pen.

I started the day with a 77 year old German man who had a heart attack 3 years ago. After one hour walking we took a break, he had an apple and took off like a bullet. I caught up in the last sgretch and we walked in the albergue together. He is more than 30 years my senior! We should all be so lucky to be able to walk like him at that age.

It's Sunday but a shop is open until 13:30. The muni is fantastic, with massive kitchen,6 dinning tables, couches (where I' now resting lying down with feet up) and a lovely hospitalera. No stress about crendeciales: go rest first, we'll do paper work later.

Hospy sent us to La Morena for a drink and a bite to eat. Since it's Sunday the dishes are limited but the chicken livers and pork in tomato sauce were excellent. The mayo with potato, yes, in that order, well...

These first few days have been just perfect, scenary wise, km wise, public transport wise ans socially. I am very happy, especially after the Portuguese last May which was a real disappointment.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

As I was heading into town this evening a man, his dog and his horse were arriving at the albergue. This is the 7th this man has walked VDLP with his dog and horse (nirmally he walks with 2 horses bit one got injurred before leaving home) and this time he will walk to Rome.

So to those who say it cannot and should not be done ...

Also in line with what is done or what should not be done, when it came time to pay for oir drinks and afternoon raciones, the Spaniard in the group asked if we were ok leaving the 2€ off a 20€ bill for the 18€ we had to pay. Yes, tipping in Spain is done, and is nkt offensive.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Almaden to El Real de la Jara.

Today was a very special day, and not jsut because the weather was spectacular and the scenary one of the most beautiful of any of my Caminos, though not flat at all. It was very special because the Muslim teenager I have been walking with met a very important person for him.

But first the way. Very well marked, lots of farm animals, lots of rolling hills, trees and small lakes. The private albergue 200 m from the entrance in town is lovely, with rooms of 3 or 4 a large patio with a view on the castle. Hospitalero Antonio recomended eating at Mason La Cochera and I strayed from the menu del dia to have pesto and a fried egg as a first ( could be a full meal on its own) and then ox tail. Yum.

So, back to the Muslim boy. He has not wanted to eat much other than sweats because "it's not Hallal". So he is walking eating Nutella and other foods, if you can call them that, that will not sustain him for the 1600km he has ahead of him. Mind you, he will not do Ramandan, because of the exceptional circumstances of the Camino.

So, as we are walking around town looking for the Dia we end up in front of a "Chino" called "El Mohamed". So in we went, met the shop owner, Mohamed. He explained where the Dia was, and off we went.

And then the boy and the man who is shadowing him on this walk got i to it again about having the eat properly. And it dawned on me: we could ask Mohamed how he manages eating in Spain being Muslim! Off we went.

First we asked him what the Coran says about food, and he told the boy that the Coran says that he must eat, and eat anything that is available to eat if that is all there is to eat. That he cannot put his health at risk because of the diet the Coran dictates. He told him that if he had a Coran at the shop he would show him the scriptures, which he had apparently just read yesterday.

We then ask Mohamed what he eats. He shops for Hallal food in Sevilla and offered to brimg him some tomorrow. But since the boy must stay on schedule, based on his deal with the association, that would not be possible. Mohamed then offered to have one of his children go to his house and bring him meat for his dinner.

I asked what we owed, Mohamed refused payment, saying Allah would repay him. So I got the boy to buy a set of four spoons to replace the one he managed to burn at the albergue making tea in a pan, by boiling a bit of water with a lot of sugar in it.

So this child experienced something I like to call Camino Magic. A moment that could only have been made for him. I am teary eyed thinking of this experience, this chance encounter meeting. Let's hope he remembers it and learns from it.

He is now asking how to thaw his Hallal meat!

 

[Paddy Brock]

Almaden to El Real de la Jara.

Today was a very special day, and not jsut because the weather was spectacular and the scenary one of the most beautiful of any of my Caminos, though not flat at all. It was very special because the Muslim teenager I have been walking with met a very important person for him.

But first the way. Very well marked, lots of farm animals, lots of rolling hills, trees and small lakes. The private albergue 200 m from the entrance in town is lovely, with rooms of 3 or 4 a large patio with a view on the castle. Hospitalero Antonio recomended eating at Mason La Cochera and I strayed from the menu del dia to have pesto and a fried egg as a first ( could be a full meal on its own) and then ox tail. Yum.

So, back to the Muslim boy. He has not wanted to eat much other than sweats because "it's not Hallal". So he is walking eating Nutella and other foods, if you can call them that, that will not sustain him for the 1600km he has ahead of him. Mind you, he will not do Ramandan, because of the exceptional circumstances of the Camino.

So, as we are walking around town looking for the Dia we end up in front of a "Chino" called "El Mohamed". So in we went, met the shop owner, Mohamed. He explained where the Dia was, and off we went.

And then the boy and the man who is shadowing him on this walk got i to it again about having the eat properly. And it dawned on me: we could ask Mohamed how he manages eating in Spain being Muslim! Off we went.

First we asked him what the Coran says about food, and he told the boy that the Coran says that he must eat, and eat anything that is available to eat if that is all there is to eat. That he cannot put his health at risk because of the diet the Coran dictates. He told him that if he had a Coran at the shop he would show him the scriptures, which he had apparently just read yesterday.

We then ask Mohamed what he eats. He shops for Hallal food in Sevilla and offered to brimg him some tomorrow. But since the boy must stay on schedule, based on his deal with the association, that would not be possible. Mohamed then offered to have one of his children go to his house and bring him meat for his dinner.

I asked what we owed, Mohamed refused payment, saying Allah would repay him. So I got the boy to buy a set of four spoons to replace the one he managed to burn at the albergue making tea in a pan, by boiling a bit of water with a lot of sugar in it.

So this child experienced something I like to call Camino Magic. A moment that could only have been made for him. I am teary eyed thinking of this experience, this chance encounter meeting. Let's hope he remembers it and learns from it.

He is now asking how to thaw his Hallal meat!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

Another beautiful day, a hot day. Feet hurting, so I jumped ahead with a Dutch couple to Monesterio and took two other backpacks with us.

Taxi was 30€, as the road is much longer via the National than via the Camino. Taxi driver was 45 minutes late because he was supposed to pick up "pilgrims" working with a tour agency at 9 am and they were only ready at 9:30. Lovely people I'm sure.

Up siade was witnessing the town's morning activity. At 8:00 the fruit and veg vendor with his blaring megaphone. Then rolls in the "rolling chino", the van that sells candy, toillet paper, you name it. Then it's the fish monger's turn, soon to be followed by the baker.

And this is what allows retirees to stay in their homes. And what also explains why village shops are so poorly stocked. A word of caution to those who like to say "the Camino provides" and "Spain has shops". No, it has delievery on wheel well past the time we head out for the day.

So yes, the muni is closed in Monesteros, and has been since October. Something to do with the albergue management contract being up and not having been renewed. But it turns out there are lots of options in town, including the beautiful Paroquial where I'm staying. One of these places where ypu have access to pasta and veggies for free, and are trusted to pay for the soda and beers you drink. Hostal Extremadura on the plaza apparently has singles with a big bath for 10€.

Museo del jamon is very well organised, and will help you in posh converstations upon returning back home as you will be able to discuss the diet of proper pigs used for quality ham.


Now, if you think the Norte has good food, welcome to Andaluzia and Extremadura. Sitting at the Rinconcillo, a restaurant that uses local ingredients to make delicate and innovative dishes. I had the crujiente de morcilla as a first, and a burger made with local beef. Extremadura reds have a very rounded body.

Just love this Camino.

 

[Paddy Brock]

El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

Another beautiful day, a hot day. Feet hurting, so I jumped ahead with a Dutch couple to Monesterio and took two other backpacks with us.

Taxi was 30€, as the road is much longer via the National than via the Camino. Taxi driver was 45 minutes late because he was supposed to pick up "pilgrims" working with a tour agency at 9 am and they were only ready at 9:30. Lovely people I'm sure.

Up siade was witnessing the town's morning activity. At 8:00 the fruit and veg vendor with his blaring megaphone. Then rolls in the "rolling chino", the van that sells candy, toillet paper, you name it. Then it's the fish monger's turn, soon to be followed by the baker.

And this is what allows retirees to stay in their homes. And what also explains why village shops are so poorly stocked. A word of caution to those who like to say "the Camino provides" and "Spain has shops". No, it has delievery on wheel well past the time we head out for the day.

So yes, the muni is closed in Monesteros, and has been since October. Something to do with the albergue management contract being up and not having been renewed. But it turns out there are lots of options in town, including the beautiful Paroquial where I'm staying. One of these places where ypu have access to pasta and veggies for free, and are trusted to pay for the soda and beers you drink. Hostal Extremadura on the plaza apparently has singles with a big bath for 10€.

Museo del jamon is very well organised, and will help you in posh converstations upon returning back home as you will be able to discuss the diet of proper pigs used for quality ham.


Now, if you think the Norte has good food, welcome to Andaluzia and Extremadura. Sitting at the Rinconcillo, a restaurant that uses local ingredients to make delicate and innovative dishes. I had the crujiente de morcilla as a first, and a burger made with local beef. Extremadura reds have a very rounded body.

Just love this Camino.

Just wish i was walking with you reading these posts. 3 weeks time i will be hot on your trail and hopefully enjoying it as much .I am envious. Paddy

 

[peregrina2000]

Great post, Anemone! I too frequently marvel at how the handful of retired people manage to stay in these small towns. The traveling food vendors are essential (I saw probably the best fruit/veggie offerings in the back of a truck in Castromonte on the Madrid, truly exceptional). So too is the accessibility of health care and social activity. Last year on the Camino Castellano-Aragonés in a town of 30 people, I slept in the medical office (doctor comes three times a week) and ate in the municipally licensed (and subsidized) "club social." Everyone in the town came into that club social at some point. I'm not sure what will happen to these places as the old people die, because there is very little population in the working age or children. At least the little places near big cities can hope to stay afloat by offering affordable housing to people who work 30 km away or so, but not so places like Real de la Jara!

When I was there, I heard that Monesterio claimed to be the "ham capital" of Spain. I once spent a few days in the Sierra de ARacena north of Sevilla, and the people there scoffed when I asked them about that. But I also got the lesson that taught me that jamón ibérico pigs eat only acorns (?) and as a result the fat on the ham is a great source of omega 3 fatty acids, and definitely should be eaten. One easy way to insult the locals is to take some good jamón ibérico and carefully cut away the fat to leave it on the plate. Not sure if the factoid about the fat being good for you is true, but it is certainly delicious when consumed along with some of the cured meat part. Carry on, girl!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

The walk through the park is ideal. Rolling hills, beautiful landscape, a few cows, and one bull. Some shade, lots of spring flowers blooming, and frogs signing. And then... there's the hillat the end. In allmy Caminos this is the steepest I have encountered. Thankfully it is short. So up I went, 20. Steps or so at a time, stopping to catch my breath when I found a flat surface.
At about 75% of the way, I heard noises comming down. It was the young boy on his "transition programme" comming to give me a hand. Hand on my backpack he started pushing "the granny" up the hill. Granny he calls me!

Hi Anemone
I think you just solved a mystery for me.
Please read what I wrote of my encounter with El Calvario.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-of-the-camino-de-santiago.44274/#post-462093

Your enthusiasm for the VdlP is infectious! Thanks for the posts. I'm counting the days now.
Paul

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Anemone
I think you just solved a mystery for me.
Please read what I wrote of my encounter with El Calvario.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-of-the-camino-de-santiago.44274/#post-462093

Your enthusiasm for the VdlP is infectious! Thanks for the posts. I'm counting the days now.
Paul

You are making me feel,much better about my awckward huffing and puffing technique! Boy is that hill ever steep. Napoleon route? Bring it!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

But I also got the lesson that taught me that jamón ibérico pigs eat only acorns (?) and as a result the fat on the ham is a great source of omega 3 fatty acids, and definitely should be eaten. One easy way to insult the locals is to take some good jamón ibérico and carefully cut away the fat to leave it on the plate. Not sure if the factoid about the fat being good for you is true, but it is certainly delicious when consumed along with some of the cured meat part. Carry on, girl!

Laurie, I have to go back and look at the pics I took at the ham museum if the boards explaining the feed, but I believe they get a mix of regular feed and acorn, and then the quality also has to do with the type of acorn (2 dehesa trees priduce them). Walked by some pigs that were going to the slaughter in 2 minths, but there are no acorns at the moment for them to eat.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos.

Today was a nice walk, through fields and fields. Very interesting is the change, passing from the dehesa to fields quite similar to,thise on the meseta. Dehesa to the left, regular wheat fields to the right.

Ok, so there is a lot of talk about arrows, mojones, cuboids, etc. There have apparerently been two spots where people get lost. I found another.

1. Leaving town is easy: walk down the hill on the same sidewalk the parochial albergue is, walk past the futbol field/stadium, turn left following one of its walls. You cannot go wrong, and it is very well marked.

2. At a fork on the path, just after having passed the futbol field, after crossing a small bridge, keep to your right, towards the water treatment plant.

3. The other part, the one about arrows vs cuboids. You face two fences. Cross the one on the left. Easily marked. After you close the fence, keep walking along the fence, and head down a small hill. Do not walk to the left and up the hill. There are lots and lots of yellow arrows on the fence. And honnestly, you have to look real hard to find the cuboid.

Some did go towards the cuboid and ended up on a road. It does not add much, if any distance into town. In fact, you may be lucky enough to bump into the gentleman who picked up the backpacks belonging to the lost walkers and took them into town for them!

Well, I can't complain. I got to use "mula-trans", meaning that for about 5 km my back'ack was carried by the mule belonging to the pilgrim I was walking with. What a pleasure it was to walk with him, his dog Linda (she rides the mule!) and Chata the mule.

Today I started seeing garbage out on the trail. So I grabbed the plastic bag I had my gazpacho tetrapack in and used it to collect garbage. People! Really! . Empty bottle of sun screen, with a walkijg stick hole theough it, plastic bottles, yogourt containers. On private property!

The heat is getting to me. Feet super swollen last night: had to take diuretics to fit in my shoes this morning. Also, after noon, I really need to walk with my silver dome Euroschimm umbrella. Discovered that 1l. of boxed gazpacho makes for an excellent mid-morning snack.

Town is lovely, a bit bourgeois. Albergue Zaguan (the name of tbe entrance hall of houses in this area) is a gem. A grand old house, with a beautiful patio and swiming pool. Bathrooms of beautiful traditional tile and high end sinks and toilets. Water preasure like nowhere before. Grocery stores in town leave so,wthing to be desired, and the Venta del Gato Negro, the recommended restaurant is really blah.

Visited the church. All the Easter floats are ready. Went in with the Muslim boy who,had never been in a church before. We were there with the second Spanish pilgrim I've come across so far, and he explained many things to him. Another touching experience. Will google to see where there might be a Mosque for him to visit.

Ah, this morning, leaving Monesterio, I did stop for cafe con leche and churros at cafe Melli. Asked to go to the loo and was let in the space where the market takes places daily. Super super clean, and stange to walk that empty corridor.

Tomorrow is 25 km to Zafra, with a first stop after 6.5. Can't count on Chata the mule to carry my bag when the sun will be high in the sky, so perhaps I can take a taxi out for a few km in the morningso I get to Zafra before collapsing from sun stroke. Will have to look at map.

 

[Paddy Brock]

Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos.

Today was a nice walk, through fields and fields. Very interesting is the change, passing from the dehesa to fields quite similar to,thise on the meseta. Dehesa to the left, regular wheat fields to the right.

Ok, so there is a lot of talk about arrows, mojones, cuboids, etc. There have apparerently been two spots where people get lost. I found another.

1. Leaving town is easy: walk down the hill on the same sidewalk the parochial albergue is, walk past the futbol field/stadium, turn left following one of its walls. You cannot go wrong, and it is very well marked.

2. At a fork on the path, just after having passed the futbol field, after crossing a small bridge, keep to your right, towards the water treatment plant.

3. The other part, the one about arrows vs cuboids. You face two fences. Cross the one on the left. Easily marked. After you close the fence, keep walking along the fence, and head down a small hill. Do not walk to the left and up the hill. There are lots and lots of yellow arrows on the fence. And honnestly, you have to look real hard to find the cuboid.

Some did go towards the cuboid and ended up on a road. It does not add much, if any distance into town. In fact, you may be lucky enough to bump into the gentleman who picked up the backpacks belonging to the lost walkers and took them into town for them!

Well, I can't complain. I got to use "mula-trans", meaning that for about 5 km my back'ack was carried by the mule belonging to the pilgrim I was walking with. What a pleasure it was to walk with him, his dog Linda (she rides the mule!) and Chata the mule.

Today I started seeing garbage out on the trail. So I grabbed the plastic bag I had my gazpacho tetrapack in and used it to collect garbage. People! Really! . Empty bottle of sun screen, with a walkijg stick hole theough it, plastic bottles, yogourt containers. On private property!

The heat is getting to me. Feet super swollen last night: had to take diuretics to fit in my shoes this morning. Also, after noon, I really need to walk with my silver dome Euroschimm umbrella. Discovered that 1l. of boxed gazpacho makes for an excellent mid-morning snack.

Town is lovely, a bit bourgeois. Albergue Zaguan (the name of tbe entrance hall of houses in this area) is a gem. A grand old house, with a beautiful patio and swiming pool. Bathrooms of beautiful traditional tile and high end sinks and toilets. Water preasure like nowhere before. Grocery stores in town leave so,wthing to be desired, and the Venta del Gato Negro, the recommended restaurant is really blah.

Visited the church. All the Easter floats are ready. Went in with the Muslim boy who,had never been in a church before. We were there with the second Spanish pilgrim I've come across so far, and he explained many things to him. Another touching experience. Will google to see where there might be a Mosque for him to visit.

Ah, this morning, leaving Monesterio, I did stop for cafe con leche and churros at cafe Melli. Asked to go to the loo and was let in the space where the market takes places daily. Super super clean, and stange to walk that empty corridor.

Tomorrow is 25 km to Zafra, with a first stop after 20. Can't count on Chata the mule to carry my bag when the sun will be high in the sky, so perhaps I can take a taxi out for a few km in the morningso I get to Zafra before collapsing from sun stroke. Will have to look at map.

 

[Paddy Brock]

Anemone , loving your daily posts and wanting my start to hurry along . Commencing 26th of April. Hope the heat you describe does not continue to rise . Us Celts are not seeing to much of it , Spring or Summer. Enjoy enjoy

 

[C clearly]

Glad to hear it is going well, and I admire these detailed and interesting posts! Albergue Zaguan was nice, for sure. Have a look at my blog for some tips on the walk after Galisteo. When do you think you'll be in Salamanca?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Glad to hear it is going well, and I admire these detailed and interesting posts! Albergue Zaguan was nice, for sure. Have a look at my blog for some tips on the walk after Galisteo. When do you think you'll be in Salamanca?

Hi Clare, I read your blog every time you post it! Loved the comments on the "chicas". Hopefully you have lost them by now. Reading ypur blog gives me confidence regarding what lies ahead.

I have a bus ticket from Salamanca to Pomferrada on the 22nd, so that os still my deadline.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Fuente de Canto to Zafra.

So, there's a bus from Zafra to Calzadilla de los barros, and it then goes to Zafra. Perfect! I walked the 6.5km to Calzadilla with a cold wind, loving every minute of it. Got to the village in town in time to eat some churros from a street vendor amd then walk to the National to get on the bus.

There is talk is the Kelly guide about the lack of arrows to leave town. Not so. Find yourself on the plaza where church, museum and farmacia are. With the farmacia to your right, the museum to your left, walk until the street splits. Keep to your right. You will pass an ermita and a park. Keep walking straight. You see another park, go around it and cross the road to start walking on one of those semi-paved farm serving paths. This is less than 1km. After that you have nowhere to take a wrong turn until Calazadilla.

To find the bus stop to Zafra, walk towards the church, go around it, keep walking to a large fountain and take the street that lines it to the right. You will find yourself on the National, with bar Los Rodriguez on your right, the bus shelter on your left. Stand by the shelter, the bus will pull in from the road a bit to pick up passengers.

Apparently that was a "most excellent" decision as the route is blah and the sun was out in force. Many walked in to the albergue with sunburns. I napped!

Staying at the pilgrim association albergue on Avenida de la Estacion. Excellent location for visiting the old town and with a Dia some 300 meters away. But as I am apparently eating my way through Spain, it's best feature maybe that it's across the street from the city's most renounend restaurant, Comeero.

Comeero jas its own farm, raises its own pigs, prepares its own meats. Wines are locals. As you walk in you read information on the city on boards, about what grows in the area, its produce, and you can help yourself to a glass of wine and a sampling of local produce while you wait for a table.

No menu del dia but pilgrims are given a table, when possible, even if they don't have a reservation. I had a glass of local red for 1.20€ and a partridge salad with foie gras. A pilgrim having foie gras on the Camino. And all this for 8€!

Back to the hostel to take the teenager to the local clinic, located on the way to the old town. Turns out he probably has plantar fasciitis, jist like I got a few years ago. He weighs 42kg and his bag weighs 9kg . Saw a sour doctor who gave him a prescription for antinflammatory and told him to come back tomorrow for xrays.

Walked through the old town, popped in to see the parador, a fortress!, and then headed back to Dia where a laege box of strwberries were perchased to eat with cream for dinner . Boxed gazpacho is apparently still not in season .

I am glad I didn't walk the whole distance because my feet and knees hurt tonight, despite a short day. Just took a muscle relaxant and Advil. I will be snoring tonight. But I am sharing my dorm with Danish and Germans, so the window will stay open.

Not sure what I will do tomorrow. I have 2 nights planned in Merida, but maybe I will stay here if the boy and the man he is walking with prefer me to stay to help with Spanish at the hospital.

Oh, the albergue: in another magnificent home. Large dorms, lovely volunteer hospies, fully equipped kitchen, 2 dining room tables, a couch.There is a terrace on the roof, but it only has a picnic table. Hospies invited us to share Jamon Iberico and a glass of red wine, and also gave me a beautiful (and real, non made in China) shell. Only draw is that it only has one bathroom for 30 beds or so. But the hospitality makes it all worth it.

 

[C clearly]

Loved the comments on the "chicas". Hopefully you have lost them by now.

I chickened out and edited the post. But I was actually mild in my comments. I expect I have lost them. In spite of the entertainment value, I found them disturbing and they did not bring out the best in me! So interesting, no?!

 

[Ko.Z]

Almaden to El Real de la Jara.

Today was a very special day, and not jsut because the weather was spectacular and the scenary one of the most beautiful of any of my Caminos, though not flat at all. It was very special because the Muslim teenager I have been walking with met a very important person for him.

But first the way. Very well marked, lots of farm animals, lots of rolling hills, trees and small lakes. The private albergue 200 m from the entrance in town is lovely, with rooms of 3 or 4 a large patio with a view on the castle. Hospitalero Antonio recomended eating at Mason La Cochera and I strayed from the menu del dia to have pesto and a fried egg as a first ( could be a full meal on its own) and then ox tail. Yum.

So, back to the Muslim boy. He has not wanted to eat much other than sweats because "it's not Hallal". So he is walking eating Nutella and other foods, if you can call them that, that will not sustain him for the 1600km he has ahead of him. Mind you, he will not do Ramandan, because of the exceptional circumstances of the Camino.

So, as we are walking around town looking for the Dia we end up in front of a "Chino" called "El Mohamed". So in we went, met the shop owner, Mohamed. He explained where the Dia was, and off we went.

And then the boy and the man who is shadowing him on this walk got i to it again about having the eat properly. And it dawned on me: we could ask Mohamed how he manages eating in Spain being Muslim! Off we went.

First we asked him what the Coran says about food, and he told the boy that the Coran says that he must eat, and eat anything that is available to eat if that is all there is to eat. That he cannot put his health at risk because of the diet the Coran dictates. He told him that if he had a Coran at the shop he would show him the scriptures, which he had apparently just read yesterday.

We then ask Mohamed what he eats. He shops for Hallal food in Sevilla and offered to brimg him some tomorrow. But since the boy must stay on schedule, based on his deal with the association, that would not be possible. Mohamed then offered to have one of his children go to his house and bring him meat for his dinner.

I asked what we owed, Mohamed refused payment, saying Allah would repay him. So I got the boy to buy a set of four spoons to replace the one he managed to burn at the albergue making tea in a pan, by boiling a bit of water with a lot of sugar in it.

So this child experienced something I like to call Camino Magic. A moment that could only have been made for him. I am teary eyed thinking of this experience, this chance encounter meeting. Let's hope he remembers it and learns from it.

He is now asking how to thaw his Hallal meat!

Hi Anemone
Love reading your posts. You are really living the Camino Spirit and these are moments when the magic happens and it touches both your being. It is really a good feeling to extend someone unexpected gesture of kindness and the recipient wells up with gratitude. How's your feet holding up? Enjoy the way.!
Ko. Z

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Anemone
Love reading your posts. You are really living the Camino Spirit and these are moments when the magic happens and it touches both your being. It is really a good feeling to extend someone unexpected gesture of kindness and the recipient wells up with gratitude. How's your feet holding up? Enjoy the way.!
Ko. Z

Feet are doing well, although I wish I had brought my Hoka One Ones. Sun and heat are the real challenges here. Hot, hot, hot!

 

[nycwalking]

Feet are doing well, although I wish I had brought my Hoka One Ones. Sun and heat are the real challenges here. Hot, hot, hot!

Love reading this blog. If it is hot now, I wonder what it'll be like June 21ST or so, when I plan to head out.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Love reading this blog. If it is hot now, I wonder what it'll be like June 21ST or so, when I plan to head out.

You would not catch me on this route at that time of the year. Having to carry so much water, and still running out, is no fun.

If only Spain would go to its natural time zone: we could start earlier with some day light and finish earlier, avoiding the 1-3pm sun.

I walk from 7:30 to noon with no problem, but then have to pull out my umbrella. Many call taxis to come pick them up along the way inorder to finish earlier, and not lose theor health to the heat.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Ended up spending 2 nights at the albergue in Zafra to accompany the teen to hospital. And what red tape! Luckily there is as much breaking the rules in Spain as there is red tape. So even if the IT system was not cooperating registering a foreigner the staff had him seen as if it were an emergency, bypassing others. Another free consultation, but for a person from the EU and proper documentation.

Loitered around town, child went to the muni pool, I played hospitalera while the hospy went to run errands for the day.

Took the second bus of the day to Torremejia and glad we did because it is one flat boring walk. In full sun. Not a single bit of shade, and you can see the village in the distance making it a demoralising walk I'm told.

Now staying at the Palacio de los Lastras, the former home of the leading local family, now property of the local gov, transformed into an albergue and restaurant. Food is ok. Bonus is that they can prepare a lunch for the next day: fruit, yogourt, magdalenas and a bocadillo for 4€. convininetly located across from the church. Albergue has a dining room , a fridge, a large toaster oven and a microwave. Dia is 25 meters from bus stop.

Just watched the men in the village stand around their cars parked in front of the church during mass, while the women actually attended .

 

[SabsP]

Ended up spending 2 nights at the albergue in Zafra to accompany the teen to hospital. And what red tape! Luckily there is as much breaking the rules in Spain as there is red tape. So even if the IT system was not cooperating registering a foreigner the staff had him seen as if it were an emergency, bypassing others. Another free consultation, but for a person from the EU and proper documentation.

Loitered around town, child went to the muni pool, I played hospitalera while the hospy went to run errands for the day.

Took the second bus of the day to Torremejia and glad we did because it is one flat boring walk. In full sun. Not a single bit of shade, and you can see the village in the distance making it a demoralising walk I'm told.

Now staying at the Palacio de los Lastras, the former home of the leading local family, now property of the local gov, transformed into an albergue and restaurant. Food is ok. Bonus is that they can prepare a lunch for the next day: fruit, yogourt, magdalenas and a bocadillo for 4€. convininetly located across from the church. Albergue has a dining room , a fridge, a large toaster oven and a microwave. Dia is 25 meters from bus stop.

Just watched the men in the village stand around their cars parked in front of the church during mass, while the women actually attended .

Anemone, love reading your progress. And what a good pilgrim friend you are to that young one. And once again Hurray to the brilliant well working spanish health system!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, love reading your progress. And what a good pilgrim friend you are to that young one. And once again Hurray to the brilliant well working spanish health system!

It helps that this is a long camino so I don't mind missing out on a few days. And I also believe that one is lucky when meeting people of interest on the Camino, as that's what really makes them special. Had enough long and tideous Caminos when I didn't meet good company.

 

[Paddy Brock]

It helps that this is a long camino so I don't mind missing out on a few days. And I also believe that one is lucky when meeting people of interest on the Camino, as that's what really makes them special. Had enough long and tideous Caminos when I didn't meet good company.

I may get to meet you yet , which i would regard as a great pleasure

 

[NualaOC]

I'm enjoying your posts, Anemone. Your Primitivo posts made me REALLY want to walk that Camino - I can feel the same thing happening again!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Torremejia-Merida

Another long, hot, non descript walk, another good option for those looking to skip bits.

Hospital was super efficient, and free. We were there on a Sunday but were in and out within an hour, with written report from the doc, saying child was basically bluffing as he only had pain while walking and not jumping and horsing around. Honnestly, I hope this walk does something for him because if he doesn't smarten up the schools will kick him out again and he'll end up in the system somehow.

Toured Merida a bit. I need to read up on the city because it looks quite poor and run down, almost as if it had been rebuilt after the war with what ever was available, yet the Roman ruins remain. If anyone can explain the state of this city, I am curious.

Stayed at the muni. I first walked past it because it is located in a park by the river, not across the street. When you turn left off the bridge, do not cross across the road, but stay along the river, and eventually you will see its roof.

The management is a bit rough around the edges, but it has a fridge, a microwave, a few utensils, and washing clothes by machine is 1€. No wifi. One chair to sit on to eat.

Got to see the Palm Sunday processions and enjoy free torrejas on the plaza. Dinner was a package of pisto (ratatouille) from Dia which was delicious.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Merida-Aljucen: 17km

I decided I do not do heat, so I wentto bed earlier than the rest (clearly before the dude with his blaring radio! ) and left at 6:30 this morning. It was a bit difficult to see the arrows, and the guidebook is quite useless. The down side to leaving this early was not getting a good view, or pics, of the Roman aquaduct. But I still prefer not having the pics than having walked in the heat.

So, to leave town, turn left on the road when leaving the albergue and at the roundabout cross, making a 90degree turn. Keep walking up until you reach the aquaduct. You will pass a bar; it was just opening when I passed it. That is where you have to take the tunnel that goes under the railway, turn left when you exit, to head over the other Roman bridge in town.

After you cross the bridge you find yourself in an industrial area. Keep going straight, and straight. You will find yourself at a large roundabout where you can see the Autopista. Keep going straight, you will see a camino metal sign on your right. That is where you can cross the road to walk on a protected way, painted green, so you are not walking with traffic comming straight at you.

You will see all sorts of shut down restaurants. Nothing open. Eventually you will see the lake made by the dam. It's a touristy/camping/residential area. Kelly guidebook says there are bars. Trick is, they open at noon only.

After the bus stop/shelter the Camino heads towards the lake. There are camping WC but, you guessed it, closed in the morning. The showers for swimmers are not currently working.

Yes, bring a lot of water when leaving Merida, and use the services before hitting the road. There is nothing along the way.

The arrows are plentiful after ypu leave the industrial area of Merida. Finding the municipal albergue 14km out of Merida in El Carrascalejo is easy, bit it to was closed today, even if it's supposed to be open from March to October. Its water spiggot turned off.

But the baths in Aljucen clearly motivated me, and despite having had 4 short breaks I was in Aljucen at 11:25. I stopped by the baths on my way to the albergue and booked my bathing slot (available only at 5 pm - not sure if that is normal opening times or if they already had bookings. Will report back.) Back from the baths, smell of clorine. While it's a treat to float, not putting any pressure on any part of the body, these are not thermal baths, but water from the town, with chlorine. Also, the pools are not reserved for one paety at a time, as previously posted on the Forum: anyone can come in and share the tubs with you, so leave some clothes on.

I am staying at the Albergue Turistico, not the Annalea something or other. Not only had I read great comments about the albergue, but I don no like albergues that spray paint infrastructure to advertise.

The turistico is beautifully set up, with tradicional furniture and other decorations, excellent shower/WC, a fully equipped kitchen, beer and water available for a small price. The family jist had a pool built for its private use and today the cent truck is there to built the patio around it, so a bit of noise, but so be it. Wifi of course.

I am told there are 3 food shops, the one I found is in the Tabacos, and it's not great, bit I bought a potato, cheese and a bit of ham, with two tomatos. The farmacia is a few doors down and I found the bandage I was looking for. Second shop is closer, up the next corner, and also has limited supplies, but I found a Californian tuna salad to take with me tomorrow.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Aljucen-Alcuezar 19km

I thought I would never make it, and that was having left at 6:15 to avoid walking after 1pm. Had to pull out the umbrella again.

Leaving town was easy: walk down, turn right where road widens and then left right after. You'll be passing an industrialish zone.You will then be walking on a road until an intersection where you tuen left and walk on the National for about 1km. That is where the gas station is, bit if you had any hopes of ot being open so you could visit the loo or get a second coffee... fat chance.

You now enter the park. The ground is comfy and the landscape gorgeous, in particular when you walk through a prive farm: the dehesa at its best. Lovely sunrise.

There is a place where you must cross a brook by stepping on granite blocks: aa bit of a challenge for short legged people like me, but doable, and all blocks are now back in position where they belong.

After you leave the park things get long, loooonnnng, and all the same, with twists and turns, which does not allow you to know how much further you have to go. Even when you get to the cross at the Alto, you are not at the Alto, and whomever decided the village is 2.5 km is a fool.

For an idea of how much you have walked when hitting certain landmarks, visit the eroski website.

Read a thread a few days ago, people hetting lost where Los Olivos has put signs and arrows its way. I really can't see how one could be confused as there is a tall stake with arrows clearly indicating VdelaP to the left, Camino de Santiago and village of Alcuezar to the right. Also, the first arrows and signs painted by Los Olivos clearly say "Albergue", you want to go to town.

If you want to go to the priests' directly, skipping town, after the road to the village, marked by the stakes, flattens, there is a first road to the left. Pass it. Take the second one to the left. You will save 600 meters.

Gerald Kelly guide alludes to an albergue in town, an option to Los Olivos and the priests. It's a German lady's flat, in town. She has two bedrooms, 9 beds, a lovely terrace. 13€. She is having issues with town people who don't like the competition she is creating, so she only advertises on a wall about 3km feom town. Her place, Casa Peregrina, is a few doors down after you turn from the Camino on the first street. There is a shell on the wall by the front door. Dorotea, 686 902 879.

Town has a few ok restaurants, a Dia and a Coviran (finally able to charge my phone at the Coviran), a number of bars, and a place that only opens for breakfast and serves coffee, chocolate and churros.

I tried to nap but my feet were in so much pain I had to take 2 Advil and a Voltaren before being able to rest a bit. The town has a Jewish old quarters.

 

[peregrina2000]

I know it's too late for you, Anemone, but to anyone else who arrives in Alcuéscar with hours in the afternoon on their hands, consider this lovely 3 km walk out to Santa Lucía de Trampal.

It is a well marked route, leaves from the fountain in the main square or in front of the ayuntamiento, and goes along untraveled local roads. There is a visitors centor inside the church, with lots of information about what the former monastery was like. And sitting out in this grass eating my lunch and waiting for the guard to come open up at 4 pm was about as peaceful and tranquil a time as I can remember on any camino.

Keep those updates coming, Anemone! Thanks for all the information you are providing, along with all the local color.

 

[C clearly]

I'm enjoying your posts, too, and admire how coherent you seem to be! I am about a week ahead of you and am not able write, let alone remember, such detail!

 

[Paddy Brock]

I'm enjoying your posts, too, and admire how coherent you seem to be! I am about a week ahead of you and am not able write, let alone remember, such detail!

I am writing all the great info you suppl y in preparation for my departure from Sevilla on 26th , Paddy

 

[C clearly]

It is great to collect as much information as you can. Then, when you start, you need to let go, and let the adventure begin!

 

[Paddy Brock]

It is great to collect as much information as you can. Then, when you start, you need to let go, and let the adventure begin!

I am following in both your footsteps and anticipating another uplifting adventure , full of surprises , surprises in landscape and surprises in the people i will meet , surprises in the "thoughts " that occur and the reminiscences that come to mind. Another opportunity to " vaya con Dia "

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Keep those updates coming, Anemone! Thanks for all the information you are providing, along with all the local color.

I'm so sorry I didn't know about this, although I was pooped when arriving in Alcuezar. But it is definately a place hospies should mention. All that was suggested to me was a walk up the mountain to see a white chapel.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm enjoying your posts, too, and admire how coherent you seem to be! I am about a week ahead of you and am not able write, let alone remember, such detail!

I have been walking under 20km a day, your days are much longer.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I am writing all the great info you suppl y in preparation for my departure from Sevilla on 26th , Paddy

Bring a Euroschrim silver hands free umbrella and plan for much shorter days than if you were in the Northern routes. And carry lots of water.

Any tips for sciatica?

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm so sorry I didn't know about this, although I was pooped when arriving in Alcuezar. But it is definately a place hospies should mention. All that was suggested to me was a walk up the mountain to see a white chapel.

I have never been to that white chapel, but I met some pilgrims in Alcuescar a few years ago, when I made my trip to Santa Lucia, who had asked about the church and had been sent up to the same place. They were very disappointed. I'm not saying that the white chapel isn't a nice spot,having never been there, but I think that if you are expecting to see a 7th century pre-romanesque jewel, you will be disappointed when you get to the chapel. I agree that the hospies should mention it, it is really beautiful.

Where are you now, Anemone? Are you going to hang out in Caceres at all?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Alcuezar to Aldea del Cano -15 km

Got up late today, 6:30, woken up by the moon light and chirping birds.

Went to the churro place for breakfast and was served the biggest toastada ever: a good inch and a half thick, with tomato spread and serrano. Our hospy and injurred German cowalker joined us. He is staying behind to visit the doctor agsin today to see if the antibiotics he was given yesterday for his feet are working. Otherwise he will have to go to the hospital in Caceres. Dorotea took excellent care of him yesterday, taking him to the Centro de salud, and then to Cacere to buy shoes. Apparently it took 3 store visits until they foind something suitable, or should I say something in his size (43).

During breakfast I mentioned wanting to skip the embalse because of the lack of albergues. Finally it was decided that Dorote will pick me up tomorrow at 9 to take me to Caceres from where I will take the bus to Carnaveral. Luckily she suggested booking at the albergue since when she tried to book for other polgrims for today the albergue was already fully booked. So my Swedish cowalker and I have our beds: I will bus there, she will walk.

I met my cowalker two nights ago in Alcuezar. Yesterday she found me at the entranceof the village, in the heat, hiding under a tree for a bit of shade, with little strength to take another step. She had left two hours after me! Super walker! But today she walked the 15 km to Aldea del Cano with me, motivating me and distracting me with good conversation. Time flew, even on the 2nd half which is all walking a few meters from tje National.

The first 8 km were a delight. Meandering by fields, with cows and storks, a few sheep. Beautiful farm land. This takes you to the village of Don Antonio where you can take a break, a d a coffee or two, in the social center, up in the village, past the Plaza.

From there the Camino is a few yards off the highway, quite plain, but also passing along important being said, a lot less shade.

4km after, you find an old bridge, and a kiosk with a picnic table, a great place for a rest. You see Aldea del Cano in the distance; 3km to go!

Aldea has three bars! Two are along the National, including the one where you pick up the key to the albergue (the furthest one, Las Vegas) and the one that shares the building with the albergue, a yellow building.

I think I will have the albergue for myself tonigh. It has a large common room, a kitchen, a washing machine and 2 bedrooms. One with 1 bunk, another with 6.

1 complete washroom with shower.

Had a simple menu del dia next door: salmorejo and salad. My cowalker had salad and beef in tomato sauce. It could have used a boiled potato or rice. But the gizards served as a tapa were excellent! The juciest orange as desert, with coffee on the house. Wifi at the bar, with the TV showing an soap opera: Puente Viejo. It's not Gean Hotel, but it looks interesting.

The bus to Caceres left with my cowalker at 5 sharp from the park across the street, not where the bus sign is but between the human play park and a fenced in field with a few horses.

May I say what a lovely sleep I had last nigh with my Voltaren, Advil and muscle relaxant? I may give the combo another try as I did not feel the sciatica at all during the night.

Edit: just walked to the farmacia and saw the church, from outside only, sadly. It is beautiful, pure original architecture from the 15thC. Of course noone knows anything about it, but it is quite unusal with its square tower, and a round one in the square one.

http://www.aldeadelcano.es/patrimon...l;jsessionid=F5FE2ABF6105981ABD24C802A03A912F

2nd edit: the bedrooms are on the common wall with the bar... apparently the youth gathers there in the evenings... but wifi works in both spaces, so how can I complain?

3rd edit: never mind the disco: they have started playing pool!

And for those interested: to win the contract for 4 years to run the local muni bar all you have to do is bid the highest, regardless of your concept, ideas, experience...

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Where are you now, Anemone? Are you going to hang out in Caceres at all?

I can imagine the disappointment!

Now 15 km from Alcuezar in Aldea del Cano. Will be driven to Caceres where I hope to be able to visit for a while while waiting for my bus to Carnaveral.

Any must sees?

Also, did you see my message concerning the Visigod museum in Merida being delayed once again and now scheduled to open in 2020?

Off to the farmacia to see about my sciatica, although from experience I think I will come back empty handed as there is no miracle chemical cure that I know of...

 

[SabsP]

I can imagine the disappointment!

Now 15 km from Alcuezar in Aldea del Cano. Will be driven to Caceres where I hope to be able to visit for a while while waiting for my bus to Carnaveral.

Any must sees?

Also, did you see my message concerning the Visigod museum in Merida being delayed once again and now scheduled to open in 2020?

Off to the farmacia to see about my sciatica, although from experience I think I will come back empty handed as there is no miracle chemical cure that I know of...

Anemone,

Enjoy Caceres. The old town is beautiful to take a stroll.
In a small street and a beautiful courtyard. Sometimes live music....El Corral de las cigueñas!
http://elcorralcc.com/

Go and have a tapa at La Minerva . Don't think it is a tourist trap because it is on tourist trap Plaza Mayor. La Minerva really stands out! Tapas with a twist.

http://www.laminervacaceres.com/

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Omg! La minerva's carte is a dream! How many tapas makes a decent lunch? At 6€ or so a piece I need to ask.

Just got the mollejas recipe from the lady at the bar, and she will bring me a dish for dinner!

 

[SabsP]

Omg! La minerva's carte is a dream! How many tapas makes a decent lunch? At 6€ or so a piece I need to ask.

Just got the mollejas recipe from the lady at the bar, and she will bring me a dish for dinner!

Do not know anymore because we were there on a regular holiday so much different than when on a Camino...;-)
I remember their raciones as pretty substantal.
PS..their lunch tostadas are affordable.

Enjoy your dinner for now!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Omg! La minerva's carte is a dream! How many tapas makes a decent lunch? At 6€ or so a piece I need to ask.

Just got the mollejas recipe from the lady at the bar, and she will bring me a dish for dinner!

 

[peregrina2000]

I can imagine the disappointment!

Now 15 km from Alcuezar in Aldea del Cano. Will be driven to Caceres where I hope to be able to visit for a while while waiting for my bus to Carnaveral.

Any must sees?

Also, did you see my message concerning the Visigod museum in Merida being delayed once again and now scheduled to open in 2020?

Off to the farmacia to see about my sciatica, although from experience I think I will come back empty handed as there is no miracle chemical cure that I know of...

Hi, Anemone, I am so sorry about the sciatica. If Cáceres were in Tuscany, it would be totally overrun by tourists; its Renaissance core is beautiful. Many if not most of the buildings are now government offices but it is still an area where real people are doing real things and the t-shirt shops are still at a minimum. The parador is beautiful.

About the Visigothic museum in Mérida -- I know I visited it on my last Vdlp, unless this is a new museum you are talking about. This is the one I went to, but it doesn´t say anything about being closed. http://www.arteguias.com/museo/arteculturavisigodamerida.htm I hope to walk through next year on my way from Almería, so it would be nice if they could hurry up their construction.

If you are having sciatica issues, why don't you think about a few days in Cáceres rather than winding up on your back in a place like Cañaveral? Good luck with this.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

[QUOTE="peregrina2000, post: 505067, member: 537"

About the Visigothic museum in Mérida --

If you are having sciatica issues, why don't you think about a few days in Cáceres rather than winding up on your back in a place like Cañaveral? Good luck with this.[/QUOTE]
I got the i,pression it's a new museum, one thst was expected to open s few years ago and is still being delayed.

http://www.hoy.es/merida/201704/06/construccion-museo-visigodo-lleva-20170406001515-v.html

 

[VNwalking]

So sorry about the sciatica, Anemone. Ouch!
May it ease up, and soon.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So sorry about the sciatica, Anemone. Ouch!
May it ease up, and soon.

Thank you Viranani. Cannot understand where it came from, nor the knee pain since day one on the opposite knee. But still much better than fasciitis!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Caceres-Canaveral

Got a lift from the German hospy from Alcuezar who offered to pass by Aldea del Cano to pick me up and tske me to Caceres as she had to be in town this morning.

Passed two beautiful castles in excellent condition along the way. One has been converted in a place for weddings and events, with a few bedrooms.
http://castillodecaceres.es/

I had stayed there last night as the partying next door last night, until 3:25 am ... Oh, did I ever write in the guest book. It started with something aboit someone's mother. My take on it is that when it is known that there willbe partying the pilgrims should be told when they pick up the keys so they can made an enlightened decision about where to spend the night. The town is running 2 incompatible business in the same building. If they want both sources of income, then. They need to soundproof. The poor cafe manager thought I was going to want to hit him when I saw him this morning, but it's not his fault,but the ayuntamiento's.

No buses today as it's holy Thursday, so trainto Canaveral it is. 4 of us are waiting for it at the moment. I had hoped there was a consignia at the station so I could visit the old town without my pack, but as there isn't tourism willbe for another time. I now practice Pilgrim Patience, under a parasol.

I did however find a cajero on the main drag, a bank I had not heard of: Liberbank. It charges no fees for widthdrawls!

Visited the Chino, hoping to find a hat, but only baseball caps which do not offer much covering, or straw hats. No good...

Glad the albergue in Canaveral is booked, as I just overheard a German being turned down as it's completo.

More later upon arrival in Canaveral.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Train to Carnaveral took 30 minutes. You get a few peeks at the embalse, but see lots and lots of cows everywhere. The geology is also clearly changing. The first signs were out of Aljuzen, where there were great big boulders. Along the train route today there were very large plaques of rock all along the way.

Staying at the Hostal. It's in a renovated stone house, impeccable, with white sheers and duvets, a great big shower room for the ladies and a lovely dinning room in the basement, with it's low ceiling. Has calamares in the ink, amd they were exceptionnally tender. The red pepper salad with tuna was also very tasty.

Planning the next few days has proven to be a challenge, with Olivas de Placensia being full the day after tomorrow. So it will be Galisteo tomorrow (stopping at the camping for me amd getting a free shuttle to the owners' other albergue in Galisteo), then a short 11km to Sra Elena's and then Olivia de Plasencia.

The entrance into town from the train station os quite nasty: I assume it is now an abandonmed part of town. It is up hill for 3km through shells of what used to be homes and businesses. When you arrive off the platform you may feel as if you are in an old Western movie set, with not a single soul in site, only dust making mini tornadoes with the wind.

Didn't venture more than 75 meters from the hostal: the town is all uphill. My body said "nope".

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The albergue dog has been in conversation with the neighbour's dog for an hour.

And just now the procession is about to pass by. Oddly enough the beat of the drums has shut the dogs up.

... spoke too soon.


Animal husbandry anyone?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Canaveral-Galisteo ...

Left Canaveral at 6:30. All was closed, so no churros for breakfast.

The way out of town: from the albergue, take a left and walk up the hill along the main road, passing restaurants and pensiones, in the direction of the train station. Pass the gas station. At the huge round about, simply go left. Yes, it may look as if you are heading towards the highway, but that ks the right direction. In fact, if you look at the direction painted on the granite cube that serge as a mojon you will see it points in that direction. There is also a metal blue amd yellow VDLP sign.

This morning the scent was of pine trees. So fresh.

200 meters or so later you will see a small white chapel to your right, head towards it. Oh miracle of miracles, there is a also a water fountain there.

Steep rockyhill afterwards, but short. Climb up and when you get to the top you will find yourself amomgst old cork trees that look like giant bonzais and will get very pretty views. More dehesa, more cows, some beautiful farms.

We took the detour to Grimaldo for a coffee break. It is well marked, but clearly not makäny head that way. You have to climb a very steep grassy hill that only goats should be made to climb.

On your right is the Grimaldo Asador, the place for a tostada and coffee as the albergue some 100 meters later does not serve anything after pilgrims leave in the morning.

To het back to the Camino, instead of going back the way you came and risking breaking your neck on that hill, followThe National towards the albergue and about 500 metwr take a left following the sign for Holguera. This was a tip from the cyclists who also popped in for a coffee. This intersection is where the work for the furture fast train is supposed to be taking place.

I am told you then pass under the highway and some 50 meters latwr take a right on a path that is the camino.

Plan was to head that way, but about 200metwrs from tne Asador something in my knee snapped. Sciatica on the right, snapped part of the knee on the left. And this os why you bring a smart phone! Called flr a taxi to be picked up.

First taxi wanted 40€. Called the second one... turns out he is also the manager of the camping site and the albergue in Galisteo where I had booked a bed. Super nice guy, Nacho, is a hard worker, excellent at logistics. Spemt a good part of the morning schleping pilgrims around, and trying to find beds for all.

He kindly had had a bed made for me in the lounge so I would be more comfortable with my busted knee, with towel amd blanket. To orrow morning he will drive me to Sra Elena's where I had already booked a bed, amd I will see how the knee is. I am thinking that after 48 hours of rest I should be able to tell if I'll be able to walk again soon or not. I still,have a full month before heading back home!

Bar Los Emigrantes next door is fine. Food a notch above your typical menu del dia but not fantastic. The Asador on the other hand is a welcomed changed, for meat eaters that is. Four of us shared a mixed salad, a plate of pock belly and a plate of churrasco, all prepared on a wood burning grill. After drinks, coffee and desert, kt cost us 7.50€ each. Hello Paleo diet.

Learned about why the embalse albergue is closed. Turns out its plumbing was poorly built and its grey waters were finding their way into the embalse. 10M€ fine was apparently given out to thr muni for this (symbolic since from one level of gov to another). So it is closed pending renovations, but should open next year.

So, here I am in the doublebed/couch, need on bolster pillows, teying to decide what is worst, the pop in the knee or tne sciatic nerve. All sort of painkillers, antiinflammatories amd muscle relaxants have been swallowed.

I am hoping for a quiet night after two nights with hardly any sleep.

 

[Paddy Brock]

Canaveral-Galisteo ...
I am so sorry you are having these problems . I hope that things improve and you are able to walk ,even slowly ,in the next few days . My prayers are with you . Paddy
Left Canaveral at 6:30. All was closed, so no churros for breakfast.

The way out of town: from the albergue, take a left and walk up the hill along the main road, passing restaurants and pensiones, in the direction of the train station. Pass the gas station. At the huge round about, simply go left. Yes, it may look as if you are heading towards the highway, but that ks the right direction. In fact, if you look at the direction painted on the granite cube that serge as a mojon you will see it points in that direction. There is also a metal blue amd yellow VDLP sign.

This morning the scent was of pine trees. So fresh.

200 meters or so later you will see a small white chapel to your right, head towards it. Oh miracle of miracles, there is a also a water fountain there.

Steep rockyhill afterwards, but short. Climb up and when you get to the top you will find yourself amomgst old cork trees that look like giant bonzais and will get very pretty views. More dehesa, more cows, some beautiful farms.

We took the detour to Grimaldo for a coffee break. It is well marked, but clearly not makäny head that way. You have to climb a very steep grassy hill that only goats should be made to climb.

On your right is the Grimaldo Asador, the place for a tostada and coffee as the albergue some 100 meters later does not serve anything after pilgrims leave in the morning.

To het back to the Camino, instead of going back the way you came and risking breaking your neck on that hill, followThe National towards the albergue and about 500 metwr take a left following the sign for Holguera. This was a tip from the cyclists who also popped in for a coffee. This intersection is where the work for the furture fast train is supposed to be taking place.

I am told you then pass under the highway and some 50 meters latwr take a right on a path that is the camino.

Plan was to head that way, but about 200metwrs from tne Asador something in my knee snapped. Sciatica on the right, snapped part of the knee on the left. And this os why you bring a smart phone! Called flr a taxi to be picked up.

First taxi wanted 40€. Called the second one... turns out he is also the manager of the camping site and the albergue in Galisteo where I had booked a bed. Super nice guy, Nacho, is a hard worker, excellent at logistics. Spemt a good part of the morning schleping pilgrims around, and trying to find beds for all.

He kindly had had a bed made for me in the lounge so I would be more comfortable with my busted knee, with towel amd blanket. To orrow morning he will drive me to Sra Elena's where I had already booked a bed, amd I will see how the knee is. I am thinking that after 48 hours of rest I should be able to tell if I'll be able to walk again soon or not. I still,have a full month before heading back home!

Bar Los Emigrantes next door is fine. Food a notch above your typical menu del dia but not fantastic. The Asador on the other hand is a welcomed changed, for meat eaters that is. Four of us shared a mixed salad, a plate of pock belly and a plate of churrasco, all prepared on a wood burning grill. After drinks, coffee and desert, kt cost us 7.50€ each. Hello Paleo diet.

Learned about why the embalse albergue is closed. Turns out its plumbing was poorly built and its grey waters were finding their way into the embalse. 10M€ fine was apparently given out to thr muni for this (symbolic since from one level of gov to another). So it is closed pending renovations, but should open next year.

So, here I am in the doublebed/couch, need on bolster pillows, teying to decide what is worst, the pop in the knee or tne sciatic nerve. All sort of painkillers, antiinflammatories amd muscle relaxants have been swallowed.

I am hoping for a quiet night after two nights with hardly any sleep.

 

[Paddy Brock]

Canaveral-Galisteo ...

Left Canaveral at 6:30. All was closed, so no churros for breakfast.

The way out of town: from the albergue, take a left and walk up the hill along the main road, passing restaurants and pensiones, in the direction of the train station. Pass the gas station. At the huge round about, simply go left. Yes, it may look as if you are heading towards the highway, but that ks the right direction. In fact, if you look at the direction painted on the granite cube that serge as a mojon you will see it points in that direction. There is also a metal blue amd yellow VDLP sign.

This morning the scent was of pine trees. So fresh.

200 meters or so later you will see a small white chapel to your right, head towards it. Oh miracle of miracles, there is a also a water fountain there.

Steep rockyhill afterwards, but short. Climb up and when you get to the top you will find yourself amomgst old cork trees that look like giant bonzais and will get very pretty views. More dehesa, more cows, some beautiful farms.

We took the detour to Grimaldo for a coffee break. It is well marked, but clearly not makäny head that way. You have to climb a very steep grassy hill that only goats should be made to climb.

On your right is the Grimaldo Asador, the place for a tostada and coffee as the albergue some 100 meters later does not serve anything after pilgrims leave in the morning.

To het back to the Camino, instead of going back the way you came and risking breaking your neck on that hill, followThe National towards the albergue and about 500 metwr take a left following the sign for Holguera. This was a tip from the cyclists who also popped in for a coffee. This intersection is where the work for the furture fast train is supposed to be taking place.

I am told you then pass under the highway and some 50 meters latwr take a right on a path that is the camino.

Plan was to head that way, but about 200metwrs from tne Asador something in my knee snapped. Sciatica on the right, snapped part of the knee on the left. And this os why you bring a smart phone! Called flr a taxi to be picked up.

First taxi wanted 40€. Called the second one... turns out he is also the manager of the camping site and the albergue in Galisteo where I had booked a bed. Super nice guy, Nacho, is a hard worker, excellent at logistics. Spemt a good part of the morning schleping pilgrims around, and trying to find beds for all.

He kindly had had a bed made for me in the lounge so I would be more comfortable with my busted knee, with towel amd blanket. To orrow morning he will drive me to Sra Elena's where I had already booked a bed, amd I will see how the knee is. I am thinking that after 48 hours of rest I should be able to tell if I'll be able to walk again soon or not. I still,have a full month before heading back home!

Bar Los Emigrantes next door is fine. Food a notch above your typical menu del dia but not fantastic. The Asador on the other hand is a welcomed changed, for meat eaters that is. Four of us shared a mixed salad, a plate of pock belly and a plate of churrasco, all prepared on a wood burning grill. After drinks, coffee and desert, kt cost us 7.50€ each. Hello Paleo diet.

Learned about why the embalse albergue is closed. Turns out its plumbing was poorly built and its grey waters were finding their way into the embalse. 10M€ fine was apparently given out to thr muni for this (symbolic since from one level of gov to another). So it is closed pending renovations, but should open next year.

So, here I am in the doublebed/couch, need on bolster pillows, teying to decide what is worst, the pop in the knee or tne sciatic nerve. All sort of painkillers, antiinflammatories amd muscle relaxants have been swallowed.

I am hoping for a quiet night after two nights with hardly any sleep.

 

[Paddy Brock]

Canaveral-Galisteo ...

Left Canaveral at 6:30. All was closed, so no churros for breakfast.

The way out of town: from the albergue, take a left and walk up the hill along the main road, passing restaurants and pensiones, in the direction of the train station. Pass the gas station. At the huge round about, simply go left. Yes, it may look as if you are heading towards the highway, but that ks the right direction. In fact, if you look at the direction painted on the granite cube that serge as a mojon you will see it points in that direction. There is also a metal blue amd yellow VDLP sign.

This morning the scent was of pine trees. So fresh.

200 meters or so later you will see a small white chapel to your right, head towards it. Oh miracle of miracles, there is a also a water fountain there.

Steep rockyhill afterwards, but short. Climb up and when you get to the top you will find yourself amomgst old cork trees that look like giant bonzais and will get very pretty views. More dehesa, more cows, some beautiful farms.

We took the detour to Grimaldo for a coffee break. It is well marked, but clearly not makäny head that way. You have to climb a very steep grassy hill that only goats should be made to climb.

On your right is the Grimaldo Asador, the place for a tostada and coffee as the albergue some 100 meters later does not serve anything after pilgrims leave in the morning.

To het back to the Camino, instead of going back the way you came and risking breaking your neck on that hill, followThe National towards the albergue and about 500 metwr take a left following the sign for Holguera. This was a tip from the cyclists who also popped in for a coffee. This intersection is where the work for the furture fast train is supposed to be taking place.

I am told you then pass under the highway and some 50 meters latwr take a right on a path that is the camino.

Plan was to head that way, but about 200metwrs from tne Asador something in my knee snapped. Sciatica on the right, snapped part of the knee on the left. And this os why you bring a smart phone! Called flr a taxi to be picked up.

First taxi wanted 40€. Called the second one... turns out he is also the manager of the camping site and the albergue in Galisteo where I had booked a bed. Super nice guy, Nacho, is a hard worker, excellent at logistics. Spemt a good part of the morning schleping pilgrims around, and trying to find beds for all.

He kindly had had a bed made for me in the lounge so I would be more comfortable with my busted knee, with towel amd blanket. To orrow morning he will drive me to Sra Elena's where I had already booked a bed, amd I will see how the knee is. I am thinking that after 48 hours of rest I should be able to tell if I'll be able to walk again soon or not. I still,have a full month before heading back home!

Bar Los Emigrantes next door is fine. Food a notch above your typical menu del dia but not fantastic. The Asador on the other hand is a welcomed changed, for meat eaters that is. Four of us shared a mixed salad, a plate of pock belly and a plate of churrasco, all prepared on a wood burning grill. After drinks, coffee and desert, kt cost us 7.50€ each. Hello Paleo diet.

Learned about why the embalse albergue is closed. Turns out its plumbing was poorly built and its grey waters were finding their way into the embalse. 10M€ fine was apparently given out to thr muni for this (symbolic since from one level of gov to another). So it is closed pending renovations, but should open next year.

So, here I am in the doublebed/couch, need on bolster pillows, teying to decide what is worst, the pop in the knee or tne sciatic nerve. All sort of painkillers, antiinflammatories amd muscle relaxants have been swallowed.

I am hoping for a quiet night after two nights with hardly any sleep.

I am so sorry that you are having these problems. Hopefully you may be able to resume walking in a few days time , even very slowly. My thoughts and prayers are with you, Paddy

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I am so sorry that you are having these problems. Hopefully you may be able to resume walking in a few days time , even very slowly. My thoughts and prayers are with you, Paddy

Thank you Paddy,

Feeling strong on my knee this morning. Will give it at least another 24 jühours rest and will take it from there. I am encouraged by the improvement overnight.

 

[C clearly]

Sorry to hear about your physical problems, but it sounds like an adventure nevertheless. I met Nacho last year and he was a very busy but friendly and knowledgeable man!

I am leaving Granja de Moreruela this morning to start the last stretch to Astorga.

 

[SabsP]

Thank you Paddy,

Feeling strong on my knee this morning. Will give it at least another 24 jühours rest and will take it from there. I am encouraged by the improvement overnight.

O I really hope the knee improves. When in doubt please see a doc.
Rest well.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sorry to hear about your physical problems, but it sounds like an adventure nevertheless. I met Nacho last year and he was a very busy but friendly and knowledgeable man!

I am leaving Granja de Moreruela this morning to start the last stretch to Astorga.

Still reading your daiöy blog to see what is ahead of me. You are a trooper Clare!

 

[C clearly]

You are a trooper

As are you!

 

[Kanga]

@Anemone del Camino I figure you are walking almost exactly the same stages as my friend Fran, and her son Eliot. If you come across then, say hi. Two Australians.

 

[Ko.Z]

Canaveral-Galisteo ...

Left Canaveral at 6:30. All was closed, so no churros for breakfast.

The way out of town: from the albergue, take a left and walk up the hill along the main road, passing restaurants and pensiones, in the direction of the train station. Pass the gas station. At the huge round about, simply go left. Yes, it may look as if you are heading towards the highway, but that ks the right direction. In fact, if you look at the direction painted on the granite cube that serge as a mojon you will see it points in that direction. There is also a metal blue amd yellow VDLP sign.

This morning the scent was of pine trees. So fresh.

200 meters or so later you will see a small white chapel to your right, head towards it. Oh miracle of miracles, there is a also a water fountain there.

Steep rockyhill afterwards, but short. Climb up and when you get to the top you will find yourself amomgst old cork trees that look like giant bonzais and will get very pretty views. More dehesa, more cows, some beautiful farms.

We took the detour to Grimaldo for a coffee break. It is well marked, but clearly not makäny head that way. You have to climb a very steep grassy hill that only goats should be made to climb.

On your right is the Grimaldo Asador, the place for a tostada and coffee as the albergue some 100 meters later does not serve anything after pilgrims leave in the morning.

To het back to the Camino, instead of going back the way you came and risking breaking your neck on that hill, followThe National towards the albergue and about 500 metwr take a left following the sign for Holguera. This was a tip from the cyclists who also popped in for a coffee. This intersection is where the work for the furture fast train is supposed to be taking place.

I am told you then pass under the highway and some 50 meters latwr take a right on a path that is the camino.

Plan was to head that way, but about 200metwrs from tne Asador something in my knee snapped. Sciatica on the right, snapped part of the knee on the left. And this os why you bring a smart phone! Called flr a taxi to be picked up.

First taxi wanted 40€. Called the second one... turns out he is also the manager of the camping site and the albergue in Galisteo where I had booked a bed. Super nice guy, Nacho, is a hard worker, excellent at logistics. Spemt a good part of the morning schleping pilgrims around, and trying to find beds for all.

He kindly had had a bed made for me in the lounge so I would be more comfortable with my busted knee, with towel amd blanket. To orrow morning he will drive me to Sra Elena's where I had already booked a bed, amd I will see how the knee is. I am thinking that after 48 hours of rest I should be able to tell if I'll be able to walk again soon or not. I still,have a full month before heading back home!

Bar Los Emigrantes next door is fine. Food a notch above your typical menu del dia but not fantastic. The Asador on the other hand is a welcomed changed, for meat eaters that is. Four of us shared a mixed salad, a plate of pock belly and a plate of churrasco, all prepared on a wood burning grill. After drinks, coffee and desert, kt cost us 7.50€ each. Hello Paleo diet.

Learned about why the embalse albergue is closed. Turns out its plumbing was poorly built and its grey waters were finding their way into the embalse. 10M€ fine was apparently given out to thr muni for this (symbolic since from one level of gov to another). So it is closed pending renovations, but should open next year.

So, here I am in the doublebed/couch, need on bolster pillows, teying to decide what is worst, the pop in the knee or tne sciatic nerve. All sort of painkillers, antiinflammatories amd muscle relaxants have been swallowed.

I am hoping for a quiet night after two nights with hardly any sleep.

Hi Anemone
Sorry to hear about your knee, hope it gets better after resting. Take it easy.
Will send a PM. Ko.z

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@Anemone del Camino I figure you are walking almost exactly the same stages as my friend Fran, and her son Eliot. If you come across then, say hi. Two Australians.

Have not come across them. If I do I will give them your regards.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Galisteo to Carcaboso

Ok, so my Ipad has decided to type in German. My appologies. Will tey to fins a techy to fix it.

So knee is better, but not for walking beyonf the grocery store. So Nacho from all things Camino between Canaveral and Galisteo drove me to Casa Elena at noon. Later today he said he will go work on the metal barrier into Galisteo that people end up face to face with when turning to,the left rather than to right, so hopefully that will make things easier for thise coming after me.

Casa Elena is very comfortable. 11 beds in three rooms. Mine, share with two,other forum members, has regular sungle beds and an ensuite. There are two outdoor spaces for a bit of laudry, a kitchen and a table with chairs in the dining room. Grocery store up the street does not have gazpacho in a box but I did find an onion, a pepper and a zucchini for some veg, and a thin crust pizza to put in the oven.

Paco, Sra Elena's son runs the place, and the bar below. And I am getting the feeling he also runs the muni as people who reserved there have been sent here. A warm welcome like his mother's? Nope. He runs around hurring from place to place so social niceties are forgotten, but the place is impeccable, andnothing beats his mom's smile. Amd when I ordered Bitter Kass he moved mountains of stock in his backroom and bar to find me a bottle, and he did. 1 point for him! A hard working man.

A heads up: there is no oven, microwave (no espionage, that must be good ) or toaster somif you buy food, do so accordingly.

Sometimes being on the C. teaches you about things from home. I had hopped my childhod friend would join me for a few days on this trip to walk, but she has been undder the weather and will pass. But today I got a message from her husband offering that one of them fly over here if I needed help. 40 years of friendship. I am in awe.

My cowalker of the last few days is on her way to Madrid to fly home. I assume some I bypassed by skipping a few sections may catch up with me as I rest my knee. Looking forward to those surprises and new faces.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I see my last post was 5 days ago. I suppose I didn't want to face reality: I decided to come home.

I spent Saturday and Sunday at Sra Elena's waiting to see how the knee healed and waiting for the doctor's office to open on Monday and see what the prosnotic was.

Knee had been getting a lot better Saturday and Sunday, but not so happy on Monday. Saw the doc at the clinic behing the townhall (free even for a non EU resident) and the disgnosis was stretched ligaments. But he told me it could take 2 weeks to heal, or more... walked out the doc's office at 11:00 am.

So what to do? Flight home scheduled for the 15th of May. Sit around a village and then walk again? Can't even be a very useful hospy on one leg. And then to walk the Invierno alone, and the up the mountains of the Salvador on a weak knee?

By 1pm I had decided to go home. I had had almost three weeks of a fantastic experience, a Camino that reconcilled me with Caminos after the Portuguese a year ago, a Camino that had me wondering if I would ever enjoy Caminos again.

I figured I have travel insurance to pay for a change in airline ticket. That even if I didn't, it would cost me the same to sit around in an albergue and eat for 10 days than to pay for a flight. Figured 3 weeks of glorious sun, naps, walking and good food was a terrific holiday. And that perhaps it was time I got back home, polished my resume and started looking for a job I will like. And see how the renos at home were coming along.

I loved VDLP, from Sevilla to El Carcaboso. The temps were at the highest limit of what I can endure (walking past 1pm was a challenge) and had to carry a lot of extra weight in water, and had very very very few places to sit along the way, but oh the beauty.

Discovered the landscape of the dehesa, learned about all meats "iberico", ate just as well as on the Norte, walked alone with the odd person passing me a few times a day, and when I walked with company it was excellent company.

So at 1pm I called the airline and learned I could have a seat on the next day's flight. Then called the travel insurance to ok the expense, then I pulled out my ipad and saw I could get on a bus from Plasencia to Sevilla.

Breathe...

Saw a taxi from Plasencia while on the phone (public booth) with the airline and asked if he was heading back. He said "yes, but after a cervezita". Really?! We arranged for him to meet me at the albergue after his beer, giving me time to pack.

He drove me to Plasencia (odd town, with walled fortress and castle) where I waited for the 5 pm bus to Sevilla.

It then dawned on me that I needed a llace to sleep in Sevilla. Pull out Ipad and got a bed for 30€ in a pension, not a dorm, but shared loo and shower. 30€ in the core of historic Sevilla? Bring it on! And here I was, wondering if I would have time to visit the cathedral in the morning before my 12:50 flight.

EUH... WHAT?!

Yup, I forgot I still had to get from Sevilla to Malage airport! Yikes!!!!

Pull out smart this time (wifi not working on the bus) and thought I got a seat of the 8am to Malaga, but the transaction was not going through. Tried again and the bus was full. So was the direct to the airport. Managed a seat on the 7am through villages, arriving downtown Malaga at 11am. Flight is at 12:50....

Lesson: yes people, a smart phone and an ipad both have theor place in your backpack.

Booked a cab for 6:30 andfound my room. Room was fine, shared loo not so much, and I didn't even bother locating the shower, on the floor above or below as the one on my floor was not working.

Turns out the ticket dispenser on the bus was not working well, so thedriver had to handwrite tickets and receipts. Tup, that made the bus ... LATE!

Jumled in a cab at the Malaga bus station. Made it to the airport, 10 minutes before my flight closed.

And then ...tne adrenalyn started flowing.

I learned at the airport when leaving home that my Canadian passport would expire during my walk, but I didn't care: I'll come back to Canada with my Spanish passport. Easy.

So when tartat the airport who looks at passports before youget to the check-in counter said my Canadian passport was expired, I beleived her. "I'll just fly on the Spanish one" says I. "Oh, but no, you need a visa to go to Canada with a Spanish visa". "SAY WHAT?!"

Yup, in all its wisdom, the Liberal government of Canada has decidedthe world, except our neighbours to the south, need a special travel visa starting last November. Really?

Liberal party? And also, why didn't the Spanish consulate inform us?

Imbecile checking passports hands me a 10 page document, points to an underlined word in the document (a link) and tells me to "click there"and apply for the visa on line. Ah, but wifi is bad at the airport, and then "computer" they have with access to the internet doesn't allow you to clickon links! 8 minutes until the flight closes.

I tell nitwit I will ask the ladies at tbe check in counter to wait before they close the flight. She tells me it won't help. I tell her I don't care, this is Spain and I will speak to them.

So I make it to the airport info center where wifi works, by then convinced I am not flying and will have to pray for a seat two days later, and that I will have to dish oit the 700$ for the privilege.

And then, the angels started singing...

Remember "this is Spain, I will speak to the kind ladies at the counter"? One of them comes overto fetch me at the info kiosk and says they will try to help. I go back to the counter, while dialing to the embassy, because the 10 page doc the imebecile handed me doesn't give a url.

First, the embassy phone system hangs up: "this is Spain"?

So I have the embassy on the phone, two airline counter ladies, a super supervisor, all going on at once. And I pull out my Canadian passport again (because this is Spain, and passport or not, visa or not, the check-in counter ladies want to get me on the flight! LOVE Spain!). I look at it... the %{*!!!! thing is VALID!! (And you thought I was being unfair to the passport checking turkey I'm sure ).

Airport super boss wants to know who the nitwit was. Bit now someone from another office closed the flight. Counter lady picks up the phone, explains she had kept it open for a reason, and overwrote the system! You can apparently always overwrite the IT system in Spain, first at the hospital then at the airport. Did I say " I LOVE SPAIN"?

Run!

I do! Well, I hobble on my bad knee. How it didn't explode on me, I have no idea. Zoomed by all the duty free perfumes, ham stored, electronic stores, booze stores. I get to the gate, waiving from a distance....

There are still people queuing to board!

I loom at my boarding pass: 5D!!! Yes, first row after business class, meaning extra legroom and first being served.

To the ladies at the Airtransat desk in Malaga, thank you! I will write a note to whomever at corporate and will let them know how wonderful you were (won't get into wantingto get me on the flight passport or visa in had or not ). To the tart who couldn't read an expirationdate on a passport nor pass along relevant information, I hope the super airport boss finds you!

I am home, sciatica doing oh so much better after two nights of deap sleep in comfy bed, with five snoring dogs keeping me company, thinking that perhaps, just perhaps, when I secure a job, perhaps I can go hike the Salvador before I start to work?

LESSONS: look at the expiration date on your passport, carry ipad and cell, find out how to call home collect from a cell phone (still have to figure this out. Anyone?), double check things when tart says "no", always try to wiggle yourself out of a corner, especially in Spain. You cannot escape planning another Camino...

 

[mspath]

What a report!! Never say never should be your motto. For months to come your mis-adventure will be the talk of the town.

Carpe diem!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

What a report!! Never say never should be your motto. For months to come your mis-adventure will be the talk of the town.

Carpe diem!

I really need to get uptight about international travel again: a couple of years ago I missed my flight to Spain because I could not remember if I was flying out on Sunday or Monday and inly checked on Sunday at 9pm. Happy to have had frequent flyers points...

Guess where I was yesterday morning? Passport office. Ordered one good for ... 10 years.

Oh no! Some dude is on Kelly saying he just got back from 2 weeks in VDLP. "They hike you hard" he says: 140 miles in 2 weeks with a tour. Apparently he's feom a show calle Breaking Bad. I have no idea who he is.

 

[peregrina2000]

Anemone, Wishing you a full recovery and a drama-free next Camino. Glad you made that flight home!

 

[nycwalking]

Get 'um next time. Congrats on Camino

 

[mylifeonvacation]

I have no idea who he is.

He's actor/comedian Bob Odenkirk. He was in Breaking Bad, and currently stars in the series Better Call Saul, which is a spinoff of Breaking Bad. The third season just premiered last week - it's a great show!

Thanks for the cautionary passport tale!! I've been checking and double checking my dates!!

 

[NualaOC]

Anemone, so sorry that your Camino came to an abrupt end - but great that you had such memorable experiences while you were there. And thanks for a great concluding post - you had me on the edge of my seat!

Wishing you a full and speedy recovery - I'm sure I'm not the only one who's looking forward to following your next adventure.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, so sorry that your Camino came to an abrupt end - but great that you had such memorable experiences while you were there. And thanks for a great concluding post - you had me on the edge of my seat!

Wishing you a full and speedy recovery - I'm sure I'm not the only one who's looking forward to following your next adventure.

Thank you for your kind words Nuala.

Did you walk VDLP with Dermot? I was looking at his photographs a few days ago, and while they were taken in "winter", they brought up many memories.

Can you believe I am thinking that the second I find my next job I may book a flight to go back out to walk for 10 days or so? Knee and sciatica will be better by then I'm sure. But not VDLP in summer, perhaps the Salvador after all!

Such an addiction these Caminos! And the accompanying weight loss doesn't hurt either.

 

[NualaOC]

Thank you for your kind words Nuala.
Did you walk VDLP with Dermot? I was looking at his photographs a few days ago, and while they were taken in "winter", they brought up many memories.
Can you believe I am thinking that the second I find my next job I may book a flight to go back out to walk for 10 days or so? Knee and sciatica will be better by then I'm sure. But not VDLP in summer, perhaps the Salvador after all!
Such an addiction these Caminos! And the accompanying weight loss doesn't hurt either.

I haven't walked the VdlP yet, but I've been enjoying forum members' posts and photos over the past year or so. The urge to walk it is getting stronger, but it will probably have to wait until 2019. Dermot's photos are always great - I think his Norte ones also made me want to walk that Camino, which I'll finally start this year.

Good luck with the job search and the Camino planning. I agree that it's addictive ...... I'm getting into a '2 Caminos a year' habit - made possible by cheap flights and freelance working. The Salvador might be next year's mini-Camino.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm getting into a '2 Caminos a year' habit - made possible by cheap flights and freelance working. The Salvador might be next year's mini-Camino.

I've always done one 3-week Camino per year, but think I will change to two 2-weekers. I need the Caminos to slow me down and once a uear is too long to wait.