Vezelay route - Bergerac variant

[hollinhead]

Hi - this is my first post. I'm walking the Vezelay route heading for Perigueux where I'll be meeting my daughter who will join me for a few days. Would anyone recommend the variant via Bergerac over the traditional st Foy route? It seems to have longer gaps between places to stay and fewer of them? Thanks.

 

[Kanga]

Welcome to the forum @hollinhead and I hope you have a wonderful chemin. The Vezelay route is one in France I have not walked, but it looks stunning. It is one of the routes less walked, but hopefully someone who is experienced will be able to answer your question soon.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The route south out of Bergerac will take you to the Chemin de St. Jacques. I took the route through Captieux, and it is very nice. This guide has both routes, though you would need another after you join the Le Puy route.

https://boutique.ffrandonnee.fr/top...nt-jacques-de-compostelle-perigueux-roncevaux

Bon chemin.

 

[LesBrass]

Hello @hollinhead

I live between Perigueux and Bergerac and I get really confused about which paths are 'the' camino and which aren't. I get the feeling that there are a few varients and that maybe local folks have disputed and changed the route over the years? In the village next to ours at Bourrou there is a huge old convent… part of it no longer in use and in a bit of a state and part of it still working. We were told by the mayor a few years ago (who tried to sell it to us ) that it once served as a resting place for pilgrims? But I don’t think it is on any of the modern routes?

Even the ‘current’ path from Perigueux has changed in the last few years. The first time I walked it from home, I joined the route between St Astier and Neuvic and walked to Ste Foy as part of my practice walks for my first CF. Recently I walked this section again with friends and the route was different going into Mussidan from St Astier. It seems to have merged with part of the new Voie Vert (green path) that joins Perigueux to Bordeaux.

(by the way you can now walk from Perigueux centre to St Astier along the river on the Voie Vert... it's generally a really pretty walk... this site is in French but you'll get the gist http://www.ccivs.fr/au-service-des-habitants/veloroute-voie-verte )

This website might also help with the two route options? http://www.compostelle-limousin-perigord.fr/voies.php?p=m1b

I can see Grignol chateau from my garden and this website http://walkinginfrance.info/pilgrimages/the-way-of-vezelay/perigueux-to-bergerac/ is by pilgrims who walked the variant you mentioned. On the paths around my home there are plenty of camino arrows but I’ve not walked this entire section… it’s on my list!

Also, there are a number of villages that will have small hotels/rooms above bars/restaurants… not specifically for pilgrims but there are options.

I’m not sure I have offered any clearer advice but hopefully pointed you to a few ideas…. Please feel free to get in touch for more info and if I can help I’ll happily do so!

p.s. St Astier has an excellent local market on a Thursday morning… maybe if you go that route you could arrive on a Wednesday evening and spend an hour or two in the market the next morning before heading off…It’s big, fills the old town and is full of local produce. We love spending an hour or two here when we can.

 

[Purky]

Having walked the 'original' Vezelay route between Périgueux and Sainte-Foy-la-Grande instead of the Bergerac variant, I agree with LesBrass that there is more than one way south. Especially on the stretch between d'Anesse-et-Beaulieu to St-Astier.
There I could choose the path described in my guide or follow the Voie Vert along the river L'Isle through St-Astier and on to Mussidan. I choose the latter and had no regrets. After Mussidan it was back to the guide again because the Voie Vert continues to the west and the Vezelay route heads south.

 

[Purky]

And as a side-note: if you keep walking after Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, try to stay at the Moulin de Piis just after La Réole. A watermill renovated by local craftsmen and a fantastic location to spend the night. Bring your own food and drinks, though.

 

[Kitsambler]

The Vezelay route in general is notorious for having long distances (by my standards) between lodging, so a variant that offers even longer gaps would drive me to research lodging carefully, and enlist the Tourism Offices and tonight's lodging host in ensuring a bed for the next two nights.

 

[hollinhead]

The Vezelay route in general is notorious for having long distances (by my standards) between lodging, so a variant that offers even longer gaps would drive me to research lodging carefully, and enlist the Tourism Offices and tonight's lodging host in ensuring a bed for the next two nights.

 

[hollinhead]

Thanks all who've replied so far. I'm trying to keep it simple - what's the best choice to make for someone (my daughter) who isn't already road hardened and who only has 3or 4 days to experience a bit of the Camino with her dad!

 

[Purky]

Thanks all who've replied so far. I'm trying to keep it simple - what's the best choice to make for someone (my daughter) who isn't already road hardened and who only has 3or 4 days to experience a bit of the Camino with her dad!

When I was to walk with someone who is not yet road hardened, I'd choose for the variant with the most frequent accommodation (and shops, restaurants, cafes etc.).

 

[Deleted member 3000]

what's the best choice to make for someone (my daughter) who isn't already road hardened

Taxis at the beginning of the day to shorten the stage! It can be hard to find a taxi mid-stage, but your host can arrange a taxi to start the day.

 

[LesBrass]

I would go the non-varient route. Having walked bits of both the path and markings are generally better on the 'main' route. Also, you can follow the voie vert out of perigueux it's a pretty and an easy walk out. St Astier is worth a stop as it is a lovely old town and several restaurants (Palombie opposite the church is very good) and there a few accommodation options. Likewise Mussidan will have options as it's a good size town. Inbetween there are several good size villages.

I hope you have a great trip! When are you planning to be in Perigueux? I only ask as this is a very popular tourist area and it's high season now in the Dordogne.

 

[21stSanctuary]

Hello !!

So to cut a very long story short, I accidentally ave discovered I have an apparently official route ( it has the blue and yellow shell symbol) and its at the bottom of my garden... I am trying to find a map of where it links to...I live just between Montpon Menesterol and Eygurande et Gardedeuilh .I suspect it links to the Mussidan and Saint Foy. Whilst its not main route ,Im terribly excited. I would welcome any in formation as to how such access routes are regarded by the " in the Know" Camino veterans and would anyone intrepid like to test it out for me?? I can offer free accommodation at the very least to start you off!!

all feedback will be gratefully received... now where are my boots??

Happyfrenchbuddha#

 

[Poppy John]

Having walked the 'original' Vezelay route between Périgueux and Sainte-Foy-la-Grande instead of the Bergerac variant, I agree with LesBrass that there is more than one way south. Especially on the stretch between d'Anesse-et-Beaulieu to St-Astier.
There I could choose the path described in my guide or follow the Voie Vert along the river L'Isle through St-Astier and on to Mussidan. I choose the latter and had no regrets. After Mussidan it was back to the guide again because the Voie Vert continues to the west and the Vezelay route heads south.

View attachment 34801

Hi,
Ive completed 3 caminos (Le Puy, Arles and Francais) and would now like to do the Vezelay route. How is the Vezelay route for accomodation and signs compared to the others? I speak "get by" french so receiving complicated directions can be problematic but I get by. Thinking of doing this in September. Would appreciate any feedback. thanks John

 

[Purky]

Hi,
Ive completed 3 caminos (Le Puy, Arles and Francais) and would now like to do the Vezelay route. How is the Vezelay route for accomodation and signs compared to the others? I speak "get by" french so receiving complicated directions can be problematic but I get by. Thinking of doing this in September. Would appreciate any feedback. thanks John

The Via Lemovicensis is a fantastic route, with just the right mix of solitude and people with the biggest hearts. Having said that, it is also a route that requires a bit more work and planning than you might be used to. As it is less travelled than for instance the Le Puy route, that also means less pilgrim infrastructure: fewer albergues, fewer shops, and more pavement and tarmac. But don't discount the Vézelay just because of that.

I got by on 30 euros a day in 2016, but that was the limit of my budget so I went rather basic (including tent). If you can spare a little more, life on the road will be easier. Do plan ahead at least a day (especially for weekends and mondays) in France when it comes to accommodation: call or let someone call to make a reservation so they know you're coming.

At all times keep some space allocated in your pack for food and drinks and be sure to buy it when you can: nothing worse than arriving somewhere to see everything closed or without shops/restaurants, and that will happen. Eat what you can, where you can, and prepare for some meagre days

I carried half a dozen hard boiled eggs as a rule, and always had some tins of fish and fruit ready. Bread is usually available everywhere, but again: get it while you can. Use the guide to find out where to shop and/or eat on the way.

I used the Vézelay guide published by the Dutch Association of Saint James. It's based on the Dutch translation of the famous "yellow" guide: Voie Historique de Vézelay by Monique Chassain. Great guide and also available in English. As a side note: there are two guides. One with the variant Nevers and the other with the route through Bourges. You can find them here. Accommodation listings are available as a download here

And just for your information: the Vezelay route has two places that still shine exceptionally bright in my memories and therefore come highly recommended IMHO. The first one is L'Esprit du Chemin in Le Chemin, 25 km after Vezelay on the Nevers variant. Arno & Huberta who run it are legends. The second one is the Moulin de Piis just after La Réole. It is an old watermill (renovated by local craftsmen) and a dreamlike location to spend the night. But remember to bring your own food and drinks if you sleep there. Small kitchen is available.

Waymarking overall is decent to very good, and with the aforementioned guide you won't have any problems. As I said, I loved it, and so do a lot of others. Check out this thread by GunnarW, who posted a lot of pictures of the section Vezelay-Limoges. If you have more questions, feel free to ask, or PM me.

 

[Poppy John]

The Via Lemovicensis is a fantastic route, with just the right mix of solitude and people with the biggest hearts. Having said that, it is also a route that requires a bit more work and planning than you might be used to. As it is less travelled than for instance the Le Puy route, that also means less pilgrim infrastructure: fewer albergues, fewer shops, and more pavement and tarmac. But don't discount the Vézelay just because of that.

I got by on 30 euros a day in 2016, but that was the limit of my budget so I went rather basic (including tent). If you can spare a little more, life on the road will be easier. Do plan ahead at least a day (especially for weekends and mondays) in France when it comes to accommodation: call or let someone call to make a reservation so they know you're coming.

At all times keep some space allocated in your pack for food and drinks and be sure to buy it when you can: nothing worse than arriving somewhere to see everything closed or without shops/restaurants, and that will happen. Eat what you can, where you can, and prepare for some meagre days

I carried half a dozen hard boiled eggs as a rule, and always had some tins of fish and fruit ready. Bread is usually available everywhere, but again: get it while you can. Use the guide to find out where to shop and/or eat on the way.

I used the Vézelay guide published by the Dutch Association of Saint James. It's based on the Dutch translation of the famous "yellow" guide: Voie Historique de Vézelay by Monique Chassain. Great guide and also available in English. As a side note: there are two guides. One with the variant Nevers and the other with the route through Bourges. You can find them here. Accommodation listings are available as a download here

And just for your information: the Vezelay route has two places that still shine exceptionally bright in my memories and therefore come highly recommended IMHO. The first one is L'Esprit du Chemin in Le Chemin, 25 km after Vezelay on the Nevers variant. Arno & Huberta who run it are legends. The second one is the Moulin de Piis just after La Réole. It is an old watermill (renovated by local craftsmen) and a dreamlike location to spend the night. But remember to bring your own food and drinks if you sleep there. Small kitchen is available.

Waymarking overall is decent to very good, and with the aforementioned guide you won't have any problems. As I said, I loved it, and so do a lot of others. Check out this thread by GunnarW, who posted a lot of pictures of the section Vezelay-Limoges. If you have more questions, feel free to ask, or PM me.

Thanks Purky,
Thanks great information. How many days did it take you? How often did you sleep in the tent?

 

[jdpiguet]

Hi John,
I have walked the Voie de Vézelay twice (North and South branches).
North took 38 days (2 "off" days) and South took 40 days (1 "off" day).
I had a tent the first time, but used it only twice, so left it at home the second one.
My budget (and expenses) was a little higher than @Purky: I spend around 37€/day in 2017, but don't remember for 2007.
As there is only few pilgrims on this way, I was happy to meet people at the end of the day: there is few gites, so I was staying mostly by private families.
As @Purky mentioned, the guide of the dutch association is very good, another one is the MiamMiamDoDo, but it is only updated every second year...

Buen Camino,
Jacques-D.

 

[Purky]

How many days did it take you? How often did you sleep in the tent?

Comparable to @jdpiguet, 34 days walking. I think I used my tent about four times but could have done without it. I sent it home when I reached St. Palais. I used it more in Belgium and on the Via Campaniensis.

 

[Poppy John]

Comparable to @jdpiguet, 34 days walking. I think I used my tent about four times but could have done without it. I sent it home when I reached St. Palais. I used it more in Belgium and on the Via Campaniensis.

Hi Purky, is the train station in Vezelay and do you have a recommendation for my first night accommodation?
john

 

[Purky]

Hi Purky, is the train station in Vezelay and do you have a recommendation for my first night accommodation?
john

There is no station in Vézelay, but there is a bus stop from the train. The nearest train station is Sermizelles, about 10 km away. Timetables are available at the website of TER Bourgogne SNCF.
As far as accommodation goes, no real recommendation. I just walked into the first hostel I noticed. I'm not home right now so can't check where I stayed.

 

[jdpiguet]

For the accommodation, very close to the cathedral:

• Centre Sainte Madeleine
• 26 rue Saint-Pierre
• Tel. :+33 (0)3 86 33 22 14

It's a pilgrim's hostel, donativo, no reservation.
Buen Camino, Jacques-D

 

[Poppy John]

There is no station in Vézelay, but there is a bus stop from the train. The nearest train station is Sermizelles, about 10 km away. Timetables are available at the website of TER Bourgogne SNCF.
As far as accommodation goes, no real recommendation. I just walked into the first hostel I noticed. I'm not home right now so can't check where I stayed.

Thank you. My wife is worried about water access. On the Le Puy route the Miam Dodo gave directions for water. Is that information available for the Vezelay?
John

 

[Purky]

Thank you. My wife is worried about water access. On the Le Puy route the Miam Dodo gave directions for water. Is that information available for the Vezelay?
John

Your best bet in France is the watertap at cemeteries. Or ring the bell at someone's house. I never had any trouble getting water, so no worries!