Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

[BobM]

Friday, July 18: Compagnano di Roma – La Storta (25.6km)

There was an interesting river crossing today (see photo) with a steepish path on both sides of the stream that would be slippery in wet weather. The water was low enough to expose the stepping stones and I had no problems crossing. But I tested each stepping stone to make sure it was firmly in place and able to take my weight. You would need to be careful if the stones were slippery or if water was flowing over them.

I stayed at the Instituto Figlie di Nostra Signora dei Sacro Cuore in La Storta. Check-in was almost like at a hotel. In fact the brochure in my room advertised it as a convenient “hotel” for visitors to Rome wanting to avoid the crowds in the city. There are good train connections to the city, so it is not a crazy idea.

I asked if I could attend Vespers at 7:00 pm and the head Sister said it was OK. The Chapel was full with about 25 Sisters when I walked in and took my place at the back of the Chapel. This occasioned some stirring and quick glances among the Sisters. I was a little uneasy that I might be disturbing them. But I was completely forgotten in the harmony and spirituality of the Service and the most beautiful, ethereal singing of the Sisters.

After Vespers we all moved into the dining room for dinner. I was placed at a separate table well apart from the Sisters. There were no other pilgrims staying here. The Sisters were relaxed and animated among themselves, ignoring me completely. I felt relieved I was not intruding on them.

The cook brought in our meals and joked with everyone as he handed round the plates. I can’t remember all the dishes. It was Friday, so one must have been fish. We finished with ice cream, I remember that. I went to bed stuffed to the gills.

This was an excellent place to take time out to reflect on the VF, to relax in comfortable, tranquil surroundings, to stroll in the small olive grove and prepare for the final stage to St Peter’s tomorrow.

There is happiness mixed with sadness at the prospect of Journey’s End. Canterbury, where I started out on the VF 3 years ago, is far in the past.
Memories from that long journey rise before me: the aching beauty of lakes and mountains and of all the creatures that inhabit our Earth. But especially memories of people who shared the walk with me who I admire so much, and people who were kind to me.

They will always remain an inspiration to me, shining brightly in my heart, giving me strength to go on when the way ahead is difficult.

Through many dangers, toils and snares
I have already come;
'Tis Grace that brought me safe thus far
and Grace will lead me home.
( “Amazing Grace”)

Accommodation: Instituto Figlie di Nostra Signora dei Sacro Cuore, Via Cassia 1826, La Storta. Ring the bell at the street entrance to call reception. €46 for a single room, dinner and breakfast. Meals are optional, but I don’t have the room-only cost. Plenty of basic places to eat just across the street. Excellent facilities. Efficient staff. Tranquil gardens and a small olive grove for relaxing and reflection before the final stage to St Peter’s Square. There is a Rule of Silence in the evenings from 9 pm.
Other Costs: Food, drink €8.

 

[michryan]

Sounds like the perfect place to stay on your last night before Rome. Can't believe you finish the walk the next day! BobM what am I suppose to read over breakie? I enjoy your morning posts.

 

[BobM]

. . . . Can't believe you finish the walk the next day! BobM what am I suppose to read over breakie? I enjoy your morning posts.

It's nice that you enjoy the morning post and don't choke on your breakfast muesli I enjoy writing this stuff , and I will also feel deprived when it is all over. I might write an Epilogue about Rome and seeing the Pope on Sunday - along with thousands of others.

There will be more to come next year. I am looking at the feasibility of walking to Jerusalem the easy way: Rome - Bari (24 days, lots of information available, no problems), flying to Israel (there is no longer a scheduled shipping service from Greece or Cyprus, alas), then hooking up to the Israel National Trail and walking to Jerusalem (15 days approx. There is an excellent website. Lots of support from "trail angels" etc).

Anyway, we shall see. I have started a separate topic about it.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

That sounds fantastic BobM. Isn't the walking life a great life! I'm about to leave in three weeks to walk the portugese way from Lisbon. Then after that it will be head bum up getting sorted for the VF. The info you have shared will be valuable for my planning. I like that you shared where you stayed etc. Thanks and do write more. I love you writing style. Should write a book.

 

[BobM]

That sounds fantastic BobM. Isn't the walking life a great life! I'm about to leave in three weeks to walk the portugese way from Lisbon. Then after that it will be head bum up getting sorted for the VF. The info you have shared will be valuable for my planning. I like that you shared where you stayed etc. Thanks and do write more. I love you writing style. Should write a book.

Thanks for the feedback. It is always great to hear reactions like yours.

Pilgrimage walks are special for me. In an odd sort of way it is where I feel most alive - even when half-dead with fatigue and pains. I hope I have been able to express some of those feelings.

My special joy is to make a connection through the written word and give something that will resonate with the experiences of others. But they must read between the lines, because that is where their own stories are invisibly written.

Best wishes for the Via Portugues. I hope you have a good poncho to ward off those Atlantic gales! I hope the VF also goes well for you. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you need any extra information.

As for the book, it is in the back of my mind to do something. The Nobel Prize beckons!

The only problem with books is that they can be edited to death, destroying the immediacy and edginess that is present in a blog. Dickens had the right idea. All his best books were serialised, so readers got only one episode at a time and he could tweak plot and character as he went along.

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

Dickens had the right idea. All his best books were serialised, so readers got only one episode at a time and he could tweak plot and character as he went along.

A bit like what you have been giving us over these last few weeks.

Thanks

 

[BobM]

Saturday, July 19: La Storta – St Peter’s Square (15.5km)

Most of the route today was on busy city roads. I can understand why some pilgrims choose to take the train into the city. Resist that temptation!

There is a short alternate path (about 5 km) through a nature reserve that avoids some of the roads, but it was overgrown with brambles and impassable when I tried it.

There were also a few km of the VF through parkland just before entering the city streets of Rome, with benches where you can sit to admire the first panoramic views of Rome and the distant dome of St Peter’s Basilica. Then there is a steep descent to the city streets on a horrible cobbled path that zig-zags steeply downhill.

I made my way through throngs of tourists heading for St Peter’s Square, along streets lined with souvenir shops and drink stalls. It was impossible to buy a large badge or pendant with St Peter’s crossed keys. They sell only small crossed-key badges you can stick on your hat or shirt.

The VF enters the Square with the Basilica and its dome on the right. Tourists were lined up all the way to the security screening station in front of the Basilica. Crowds were milling about, taking photos, admiring the sights, talking.

The building where you get your Testimonium is on the opposite side of the Square, close to the wide street that enters the open end of the Square (see photo). There is no “information” sign, just the crossed keys of St Peter above the door. Go in and ask at any counter. The staff know exactly what to do and it takes only few minutes to get your Testimonium.

The Post Office and another information centre with the usual “information” sign are on the same side of the Square, but much closer to the Basilica. There are toilets there as well.

I had a farewell coffee with a few other pilgrims I had met off and on over the past couple of weeks and then we all went our separate ways once more. Now we are tourists in Rome!

So ended a journey of over 2000km.

Special Thanks

I must especially thank the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (CPR) for their comprehensive accommodation list and Alison Raju for her guidebook. I did not use it on the road, but Volume 1 was a great help to me when I was planning the first half of my pilgrimage. I encourage all intending pilgrims to join the CPR. I hope the few articles I wrote for the CPR were some return for their help.

I used Paul Chinn and Babette Gallard’s guidebook on the road, together with Paul’s GPS data. I cannot thank Paul too much for all his help. He responded promptly to all my emails with helpful advice and even emailed new GPS files to me last year when my GPS unit failed en route - even when he himself was on the road and occupied with his own activities. I remain indebted to Paul for his help and I hope my feedback on his guidebook has been a partial return of the favour.

Writing and updating guidebooks to the VF is not the path to riches for their authors. It is a niche market, and a lot of ongoing effort is required. Both Paul Chinn and Alison Raju are doing essential work to bring the VF alive for increasing numbers of pilgrims and I wish them well for the future. Buy their books!

I stayed for the night at some memorable places. They will be obvious from my daily accounts. The VF would be almost impossible without the many dedicated small accommodation providers dotted along the way. They are links in a great chain that stretches from Canterbury to Rome.

I thank all of you who have stuck with me over the last 35 days. Without appreciative readers the work would have been simply a chore.

Tomorrow I plan to visit as many of the seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome as I can. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Pilgrim_Churches_of_Rome.

That will be my epilogue.

In the end there are no answers, only more questions and the same restless searching.

Bob M

 

[efdoucette]

Thanks again Bob, very well done.
Less than a month for me now before I hit the road. I have no questions to ask you, what I don't know will not kill me (may hurt a little) but the exploring and finding new is part of the joy.
I guess if I had to ask one question it would be about language, how little is too little?

Thanks again Bob, happy trails wherever they take you,
Eric

 

[petro]

Thanks Bob, I really enjoyed reading you posts!

 

[BobM]

. . . . I guess if I had to ask one question it would be about language, how little is too little?
Eric

English + (polite) gestures will usually work in shops, hotels; but for religious accommodation and small ostellos some grasp of basic Italian is very helpful otherwise it becomes frustrating for both parties. When you phone such places the priest, or whoever answers the phone, will usually want to give you instructions or pass on some information. So a knowledge of numbers, dates and basic 'traveller's' vocabulary would be a minimum. Of course the best solution is to have an Italian friend to make the calls.

Apart from survival purposes, it is just nice to be able to chat in Italian in cafes and on the road. You don't have to be able to discuss the philosophical basis of Dante's work.

One hurdle we all have overcome is the fear of making mistakes or saying silly things inadvertently. I just ploughed ahead anyway and asked questions if I was stuck for words. It's fun to engage in that way.

Although it can be dangerous to improvise too freely. Many years ago I was learning Cantonese and said what I thought was a perfectly innocent sentence to my teacher, a very demure young Chinese woman. She went bright red and said I should not say that, but refused to tell me the problem.

Guidebooks usually have some basic Italian words and phrases. Lonely Planet is pretty good. The only problem is that if you just parrot standard phrases without a basic knowledge of grammar you will be lost when an Italian replies. You don't need to know the subjunctive or pluperfect tense of every irregular verb! For example, for the verb "to want" learn the politer form eg vorrei... (I would like...) rather than the demanding voglio... (I want...)

There are heaps of resources on the web. Just google "Italian language course". You will find all the verb conjugations, nouns, articles and so on.

I used the free "Busuu" Italian course. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Busuu

 

[michryan]

Thankyou so much BobM for sharing. I have really enjoyed my morning read and the info you have provided will be so helpful to my walk. Congratulations on completing such an epic walk. I wish you well on your next incredible journey. Do hope to see it written. If you ever write a book let me know I will be the first to buy. I know you are Melbourne base. If you ever head perth way let us know my hubby and I would love to share a beer and hear more of your adventure.

 

[BobM]

Thankyou so much BobM for sharing. I have really enjoyed my morning read and the info you have provided will be so helpful to my walk. Congratulations on completing such an epic walk. I wish you well on your next incredible journey. Do hope to see it written. If you ever write a book let me know I will be the first to buy. I know you are Melbourne base. If you ever head perth way let us know my hubby and I would love to share a beer and hear more of your adventure.

You are very kind. I will certainly write up my attempts to get to Jerusalem. That walk is a big step-up in complexity.

Last year I met a remarkable lady who was walking the world to spread peace and love. She had walked the Israel National Trail. But among her other long-distance walks was the Bibbulman Track (http://www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au/the-track/). It has stuck in my mind, and one day I might have a go myself. So I might eventually get to Perth.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

You are very kind. I will certainly write up my attempts to get to Jerusalem. That walk is a big step-up in complexity.

Last year I met a remarkable lady who was walking the world to spread peace and love. She had walked the Israel National Trail. But among her other long-distance walks was the Bibbulman Track (http://www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au/the-track/). It has stuck in my mind, and one day I might have a go myself. So I might eventually get to Perth.

Bob M

Yes. Love the Bibb track as we westies call it. It like home each time I step on the trail. A very different way of being when you walk it. If you ever do decide to come and try it out give us a yell would love to share. Also we have the Cape to Cape as well. It is a lot shorter but very beautiful walk. Much like the Great Ocean Road walk on your side. (Which my hubby and I did back in May ). Could keep going on so many walks so many places, people, experiences to discover.

 

[BobM]

Sunday July 20: Rome

The Pope was giving a Sunday address in St Peter’s Square, so I decided to put off visiting the seven Pilgrim Churches until tomorrow.

A rest day at last! Writing postcards, hanging about St Peter’s. No pack! Sandals! The simplest things become the most indulgent luxuries after a long walk.

St Peter’s Square filled rapidly with excited people as noon approached. Tourists were milling about. Sisters waited singly and in small groups. Groups from other countries were having a great time, waving banners and flags, singing and chanting Viva Papa!

Two big TV screens were set up to televise the speech so everyone could get a good view. The crowd went wild when the Pope appeared in the window and began to speak.

He finished by wishing us a good lunch and the crowd slowly dispersed, a little reluctantly. People took photos of their groups, hugged, chatted to others. It was wonderful.

 

[BobM]

View attachment 13203 View attachment 13204 View attachment 13205 View attachment 13206 View attachment 13207 View attachment 13208 View attachment 13209 View attachment 13203 View attachment 13204 View attachment 13205 View attachment 13206 View attachment 13207 View attachment 13208 View attachment 13209 Monday July 21: Rome

Sigeric spent only two days in Rome but visited 23 churches. See this weblink for details: http://www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk/gallery/index.php?/category/21

The seven pilgrim churches open about 9:30, close about noon and re-open again at about 16:30. The metro (day pass €6) makes it easy to get around, but there is considerable walking involved. It would be a very full day to see all seven churches.

There is a dress code for inside the churches. Knee-length shorts are Ok but not shorter. Enterprising street sellers will sell women a long length of light fabric they can wrap around their waist like a skirt to satisfy the dress code. You can get a pilgrim stamp for your credencial by asking at the Sacristy in each church.

Here are the churches I managed to see today.
Basilica of St. John Lateranhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archbasilica_of_St._John_Lateran

Basilica of St. Maria Maggiore http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Santa_Maria_Maggiore

Basilica of St. Paul Outside-the-Walls. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_Paul_Outside_the_Walls The Basilica is set in beautiful, park-like surroundings. Very few tourists. Visitors inside the Basilica were quiet and respectful, unlike at many of the other churches. You can walk down a some steps to kneel at the tomb of St Paul. There is a chain reputed to be the one that bound him as a prisoner in Rome. It is a very intimate experience.
This church was a far more fitting and peaceful place to end my pilgrimage than the busy, crowded St Peter’s Square. There is a lovely internal courtyard garden overlooked by an impressive roof decoration. There is a shop, café and toilets.

Basilica of St. Lawrence Outside-the-Wallshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_Lawrence_outside_the_Walls

Basilica of the Holy Cross of Jerusalemhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Croce_in_Gerusalemme

Wrapup

This will be my last post on the Via Francigena. I hope more people will travel the VF. Not many people have the time or inclination to walk it all at once. It took me three years.

But there are special sections that can be done in one or two weeks, such as the World War 1 battlefields in France and Lausanne to the St Bernard Pass in Switzerland. Italy offers many wonderful sections that can be walked in a few days or a week.

If my postings encourage others to set out on this great adventure I will be satisfied.

Best wishes to everyone for your own journeys.

 

[petro]

Hi Bob, your posts certainly inspired me to do this. It is no longer a dream but a question of when. Thanks.

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob, your posts certainly inspired me to do this. It is no longer a dream but a question of when. Thanks.

It took me two years of thinking about the VF before I took the plunge. The distance can be daunting, but you don't have to do it all at once.

Getting accommodation in France can be a chore if you walk when the whole French nation is on vacation. But everyone gets a bed eventually! I don't think any pilgrim has ever died of exposure for want of a bed on the VF. Also, check out where the Tour de France and Giro d'Italia routes are for the year you plan to walk. You don't want to be competing for accommodation with those crowds.

I am following Domigee who is walking to Jerusalem. She started in Canterbury, so you might want to see what she has to say about the VF.
http://domigee.blog.co.uk/

Anyway, good luck.

Bob M

 

[michryan]

View attachment 13203 View attachment 13204 View attachment 13205 View attachment 13206 View attachment 13207 View attachment 13208 View attachment 13209 View attachment 13203 View attachment 13204 View attachment 13205 View attachment 13206 View attachment 13207 View attachment 13208 View attachment 13209 Monday July 21: Rome

Sigeric spent only two days in Rome but visited 23 churches. See this weblink for details: http://www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk/gallery/index.php?/category/21

The seven pilgrim churches open about 9:30, close about noon and re-open again at about 16:30. The metro (day pass €6) makes it easy to get around, but there is considerable walking involved. It would be a very full day to see all seven churches.

There is a dress code for inside the churches. Knee-length shorts are Ok but not shorter. Enterprising street sellers will sell women a long length of light fabric they can wrap around their waist like a skirt to satisfy the dress code. You can get a pilgrim stamp for your credencial by asking at the Sacristy in each church.

Here are the churches I managed to see today.
Basilica of St. John Lateranhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archbasilica_of_St._John_Lateran

Basilica of St. Maria Maggiore http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Santa_Maria_Maggiore

Basilica of St. Paul Outside-the-Walls. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_Paul_Outside_the_Walls The Basilica is set in beautiful, park-like surroundings. Very few tourists. Visitors inside the Basilica were quiet and respectful, unlike at many of the other churches. You can walk down a some steps to kneel at the tomb of St Paul. There is a chain reputed to be the one that bound him as a prisoner in Rome. It is a very intimate experience.
This church was a far more fitting and peaceful place to end my pilgrimage than the busy, crowded St Peter’s Square. There is a lovely internal courtyard garden overlooked by an impressive roof decoration. There is a shop, café and toilets.

Basilica of St. Lawrence Outside-the-Wallshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Saint_Lawrence_outside_the_Walls

Basilica of the Holy Cross of Jerusalemhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Croce_in_Gerusalemme

Wrapup

This will be my last post on the Via Francigena. I hope more people will travel the VF. Not many people have the time or inclination to walk it all at once. It took me three years.

But there are special sections that can be done in one or two weeks, such as the World War 1 battlefields in France and Lausanne to the St Bernard Pass in Switzerland. Italy offers many wonderful sections that can be walked in a few days or a week.

If my postings encourage others to set out on this great adventure I will be satisfied.

Best wishes to everyone for your own journeys.

Your postings have made me very excited for my journey. It's such a wonderful thing you have done in sharing. Good to know about the cover up. Would never of thought about that. Thanks again.

 

[petro]

At this stage I am only thinking of doing the Italian leg of the VF - not brave enough for the whole route! Planning to do it in 2016. Good luck with your planning too and thanks again for the info and the lovely pictures!

Petro

 

[Sheffield James]

Congratulations Bob on completing your via Francigena. I am a great fan of your posts, which I found extremely helpful when planning my own journey along this same route. You may or may not recall giving me some encouraging words earlier in the year when I admitted to a few nervous thoughts about my pilgrim trip. They worked a treat, so thank-you very much!!
Actually, I reached Rome - from Canterbury - on the 19th August; just one month after you. It took me 80 days in total (75 walking days and 5 rest days) and it was the most incredible of experiences. I now look forward eagerly to reliving some of our shared encounters by reading your forum summaries. I may add a few notes of my own to the forum at some point, though they won't be nearly as impressive and informative as yours.
For information, I have the good fortune to be invited to a birthday celebration in Kent this weekend that enables me to make a slight detour to revisit Canterbury Cathedral to give thanks for a safe and spiritually-enriching journey. I felt my pilgrimage ended when I stood with my Testimonium at the Tomb of St Peter in the Basilica in Rome, but I think it will still be very special feeling to arrive back at the Cathedral in Canterbury where it all began for me on the 1sr June.

I have just noticed your plans to walk to Jerusalem next year. I want to do this too, so don't be surprised to find me taking a keen interest in your planning over the coming months. Naturally, I will share what I learn from my own research.

 

[Magnara]

Thursday, July 17: Sutri – Compagnano di Roma (26km)

The route passes an Etruscan necropolis on the outskirts of Sutri. You can see numerous tombs cut into the rock. I vaguely remember there are signs explaining it all.

I took the alternate road route that cuts out a 4km detour into the fields. The day was very hot and I longed for cool drinks, but Monterosi was the only town with bars.

After Monterosi much of the route was without shelter until the last few km into Compagnano where it was under trees. I met a cyclist who gave me a shot of very strong coffee from his thermos flask just before the steep climb up to the town.

I had a snack in an excellent café on the square in Compagnano and decided to find a place to stay. I composed an enquiry in my mind and turned to the man at the next table.

“Mi scusi. Dove si trova l'Oratorio San Giovanni per favore? “

“Pardon? I am American. On vacation,” he replied.

An efficient young Italian woman nearby overheard the exchange and immediately took charge, firing up Google Maps on her laptop. A couple of young men from other tables joined in, rather unnecessarily I thought, (but she was very pretty) and I was soon on my way, instructions ringing in my ears.

The accommodation was very basic and in need of sweeping (which I did), but it was okay for one night. The photo will give you a general idea.
Pillowcases were provided, but that was not always so in other places. Here’s a tip: Take a pillowcase with you to block out the sour smell of stale sweat from all those thousands of heads that have slept on the pillow before you. The pillowcase can also double as a bag to wrap changes of clothes in.

A cool change arrived late in the afternoon bringing cloud and distant thunder, an invigorating end to a hot day.

A filling pilgrim dinner at the bar with two other pilgrims – pasta, steak with salad, water – made all well with the world.

Accommodation: Oratorio San Giovanni Battista. €-donation. The bar near the accommodation will call the priest if you stop at the bar for a drink when you arrive. Mattresses on the floor in several big rooms. Rather dirty, unswept rooms. Fridge. Can’t recall if there were other kitchen facilities. Few if any shops close by. There is one bar that offers pilgrim dinners and breakfast.
Other Costs: Food, drink €20. The pilgrim dinner (€10) is included.

Loving your posts Bob, it brings back so many memories. In Campagnano di Roma we stayed in a convent with delightful nuns. You are so close to Rome now! The moment you step into St Peter's square is an amazing feeling!
Maggie Ramsay
(The Italian Camino - Amazon)

 

[BobM]

I have found a useful website for the Vie Francigene del Sud http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/it/resource/statictrack/category/francigena-del-sud/ to help planning stages from Rome to Bari.

I hope to start walking from Rome by March 15 next year and arrive in Jerusalem by the end of April. Spring! What is the weather like in Italy in late March?
It is not possible to go from Cyprus to Israel by boat (Domigee just confirmed it. She is a lady who started in Canterbury in July and is now in Cyprus after her epic walk across Europe), so it looks like I will take ship from Bari to Greece, then fly to Tel Aviv.

I have more beginner's nerves about this walk than any other.

Bob M

 

[Magnara]

The towns are so attractive, not only the famous places like Lucca, Siena, San Gimignano etc. The only problem is that the original inhabitants insisted on putting them on hilltops. Very defensible, and, of course, very pretty today, but hell for weary pilgrims trudging up to them.

I have tried to limit my pics to only 4 per day, so I have not been able to show details of many of the towns.

Italy is wonderful for bars, cafes etc. Many, if not most, open early, often at 6:30. There are only a few stages where bars are infrequent. I got caught out once or twice expecting to find a bar for breakfast en route, but not finding any.

The VF atmosphere in Italy is completely different to the rather sterile atmosphere in France and Switzerland. More like the Camino Frances spirit.

Walking in autumn will probably be different to walking in summer. The crowds of tourists will have gone. The paths in forests etc will be well-walked, making navigation easier.

Anyway, if you have any specific questions, I am only a few mouse clicks away.

Bob M

I love your posts - it gives it in a nutshell. We walked the VF in autumn (starting in Besancon in late September and arriving in Rome at the end of November.) It was cold and wet quite a lot, but we absolutely loved all of it, a great atmosphere, and the pilgrims of more interest to the locals because we are so much more unusual than on the Frances. And we walked with lovely autumn colours. The route did need us to use a Garmin handheld, we were very glad we had taken it, it meant we were mostly able to keep away from tarred roads. That was 2010, maybe the forest tracks might be more evident now without needing a gps.
The VF - aah - wonderful all the way and to end up in the amazing city of Rome!
Maggie Ramsay
(The Italian Camino - Amazon)