LIVE from the Camino VdlP starting May 6

[MileHighPair]

We plan to start in Seville this Friday. We've started a new blog, and we'll be updating it and posting in this thread as often as wifi allows. It sounds like we will have plenty of company along the way. This will be a different kind of Camino for us. In the past we've walked almost 100% of the way on the Frances, Salvador, Primitivo, Madrid, and the VdlP. This time we will be attempting to be done earlier in the day, mostly because it will be the warmest weather we've ever experienced on Camino. On this route, that will mean at least a couple taxi rides. Our blog is at: https://mikeandruthscaminoblog.wordpress.com/
Mike and Ruth.

 

[nycwalking]

Enjoy ever so much.

Looking forward to your posts and blog.

Buen camino.

 

[jalluisi]

Looking forward to hearing about your camino! Buen Camino.

 

[MileHighPair]

To Guillena: we stayed in Hostal B&B Naranja about 1 km northwest of the cathedral. It is simple, but OK. We caught the river path just as the sun rose, refilled our water bottles in Santiponce, and then came the first long hot straight stretch of this route. The Luz Camino albergue in Guillena is the only one open right now. It is very nice, if just a few too many stairs!

 

[Juno]

To Guillena: we stayed in Hostal B&B Naranja about 1 km northwest of the cathedral. It is simple, but OK. We caught the river path just as the sun rose, refilled our water bottles in Santiponce, and then came the first long hot straight stretch of this route. The Luz Camino albergue in Guillena is the only one open right now. It is very nice, if just a few too many stairs!

I just finished the VDLP at Caceres on Wednesday 4th May and I heard the Municipal Albergue in Merida is closed due to the hospitalerios getting Covid. I’m sorry I don’t have more details of when and how long they are closed for but I gather there’s a facebook via de la plata page about this, which might have an update or maybe someone on the forum who’s there now could let you know.

 

[MileHighPair]

To Castilblanco: A beautiful walk, but more uphill than I remember (five years older legs?). The municipal albergue is open and was almost full on May 7. In my opinion, the hospitaleros drank far too much alcohol that day. It was a shame for him to have caused such a scene. I will not give details, the other pilhrims all agreed that he seemed like a good man, but the beer and whiskey revealed a dark side. We still have generously to the Donativo box.

To Almaden de la Plata. No grocery store open on Sunday! We already know that is the way of small towns in Spain, I'm just reminding folks. The municipal albergue was very nice. 10E. We ate a late dinner at Casa Concha and had some of the best meat we've ever had in Spain. Tender pork chops and perfectly flavored ribs that fell off the bone. It seemed like a family operation that is worthy of support 9E for the pilgrim menu: salad or soup, main dish, dessert, and coffee. Amazing!

To Real de la Jara: This day is more difficult than the 14 km would make you think it might be.. We are at Alojamento del Peregrinos. On the right just as you enter town. Very nice, but too far from the castle on the hill, which we'd love to visit. We just can't justify the >1 km walk each way in the hot afternoon sun.

I know it will be much hotter in a few weeks in these parts, but the sun and heat already force us to finish before noon.

Mike.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Glad to hear that Casa Concha is thriving. I’m a fan. Buen Camino!

 

[MileHighPair]

To Monesterio: we stayed in the Parochiol albergue in Monesterio. It really is shame it is so little known. One of the nicest albergue anywhere. And still only 10E.

To Fuente de Cantos: We stayed at El Zaguan apartments, and were glad we had made reservations. There is still one very tricky turn on this stage. After crossing a stream about 13 km along the way, the Camino makes a sharp left. Only one very weathered yellow arrow exists here. I missed this arrow in 2017, so I knew to watch for it today. One other fellow pilgrim made the same error today.

To Zafra: it's nice to stop in Pueblo de Sancho Perez for a coke on a hot day!!!! The municipal albergue is nice, but the kitchen is not open after Covid. The menu del Dia in Cafe Carmen is great (on the same block as the albergue).

To Villafranca de los Barros. Stayed at Extranatura Albergue. The hospitaleros did everyone's laundry! There is a kitchen, but it is difficult to access, and very small.

To Toremejia: we made reservations at Hostal Melenium. The menu del dia across the street was OK.

To Merida: An easy walk. Of course Merida is a "must see" city. We had already visited most of the sites in 2016, and find it difficult to be tourists while on Camino, so we mostly rested on this day.

To Aljucen: The only open albergue is San Andres. It is very nice, with more beds than it looks like.

To Alcuescar: The municipal albergue there is no longer being managed by "old school hospitaleros", and it does not serve an evening meal. One Spanish woman is now a live-in hospitalera, and is much more pleasant than the previous gentlemen, but does not do a meal.

To Aldea del Cano. It was obvious from the numbers in Alcuescar that the Valdesalor albergue was going to be Completo on this night (and this was confirmed on our walk to Caceres). Because we are slow walkers, we stopped in Aldea del Cano, where a small, but very nice albergue was our home for one night.

Overall thoughts at this time: Pilgrims are back! Nobody has had to sleep on the street, but there has had to be some creative solutions for folks who have arrived late in the day. High temps have been mostly on the 90s (F), bit we've been starting well before sunrise so that we can finish by noon, well before the daily high temp.