Here are some corrections to the current online CSJ guide to the Caminho Português from Lisbon to Porto (to be used in conjunction with an earlier update, September 2011, which is on the CSJ website right next to the online guide). I will be working on a new edition of the entire guide very soon, but wanted to get these comments disseminated for those who are walking soon. Page numbers refer to the CSJ online guide to Lisbon-Porto.
p. 12 – Alhandra – A January Pilgrim (I’ll refer to him as JP) reports that the Bombeiros Voluntarios offer a mattress, not just the floor.
p. 14 – Azambuja – Once again, JP slept on a mattress. He noted that pilgrims might want to check the temperature of the buildings before making a final decision, because there will be no heat. Not a problem in “normal” pilgrim season, of course.
p. 16 – Lodging in Santarém – Residencial Beirante is 35 € firm. Pensão Muralha is closed. Residencial Vitoria is 20€. There is also a sign indicating beds available at a place across the street from the Santarém train station in Ribeira de Santarém, but that is not directly on the Caminho.
p.17 – the “abandoned white building” at which a left turn is indicated upon leaving Ribeira de Santarém is abandoned no more. JP reports it has been fixed up. But note that he found that there was no arrow indicating the left turn, so keep an eye out (maybe it was lost during the renovation).
p. 18 – It is possible to break up the stage between Santarém and Golegã. Between Pombalinho and Azinhaga, there is a gas station with an attached restaurant called O Bacalhau and they have beds in the back in an unattached building. Clean and very useful. It is NOT directly on the Caminho, but rather one km back towards Pombalinho. You must walk along the road to get there.
p.18 – If you read the CSJ guide, you will note that I took a wrong turn here and wound up in the town of Pombalinho, which is not on the Caminho. But if you find yourself there, not to worry, it is a straight shot into Azinhaga along the side of a road. JP didn’t get lost, so maybe the arrows are better now. JP’s route took him to the right at the turn where I incorrectly went left, out of the woods, into agricultural fields. He adds the following notes: as you approach the paved road beside the very large grain silos, you can cut through a field to save two legs of a triangle. Turn left at the road, and four or five houses later on the left is the restaurant/gas station with beds. Good food reported.
p. 18 – Casa de Azinhaga in Azinhaga is a Casa Rural – 50€ bed and breakfast.
p. 20 – After sentence saying “Sign says you are entering Mala.” Looks like something has changed, you should NOT take a R at the Y junction, but a L. You will then not “emerge onto paved road,” (as the guide says), but will “stay on the paved road and arrive at Quinta do Matinho.”
p.20 – In the hamlet of São Caetano, there is now a private albergue. Details are on the CSJ website, on the “September 2011 update” page, including phone, email, and details. JP had a very nice evening with Alexandre Hachmeister and his wife Rita. I won’t tell you how much wine they consumed.
p. 21 – second paragraph – turn left onto a DIRT road, not a PAVED road.
p. 22 – in the first eucalyptus forest. Where I wrote “I didn’t see an arrow indicating the turn itself,” JP reports there is now an arrow. In fact, the arrow angels have been at work helping to guide pilgrims through the eucalyptus forest. But because the arrow is wooden, painted yellow, and has “Santiago” written in black across it, JP worries that these arrows will soon disappear into the hands of souvenir seekers.
Now, back to the guide and page 22 – after you pass the three transmission lines, there is now a yellow wooden arrow, on the ground, surrounded by stones, not nailed down in any fashion, again leaving JP to worry that it will soon disappear. So, if you lose the arrows, you can still follow my directions about following the large high voltage transmission poles and lines, they will take you where you need to go.
p. 24 – JP lost the arrows after the building that looks like a jail. This was a new-ish subdivision, so maybe there has been more construction. I would suggest that if you can’t find the arrows, you should ask for the “Ponte de Peniche.” (The bridge to Peniche.). It’s an old bridge, probably well know to the people in town. And from there, continue as the top of p. 25 suggests, under the highway.
p. 26 and p. 27 – JP shows that his bargaining skills are better than mine – he paid only 18.5 € at O Brás in Alvaiazere (I paid 20); he paid 20 € at the Adega Típica in Ansião (I paid 25).
p. 27 – 5th paragraph beginning “In Spring 2009,” JP adds that the road construction area seems to have been converted into a soccer field with seats.
p. 29 – Roman villa at Rabaçal is free for pilgrims (or maybe just for JP, because I paid 1.50 €). It sounds like there are cuts ahead for the curators who work at the museum/ruins, so who knows what the future will bring for visits to both the museum and the ruins.
p. 30 – Bar in Rabaçal across from the museum was open at 8:00 a.m.
p. 31 – For those staying in the town of Condeixa a Nova, a few kms from the ruins at Conímbriga, JP does not recommend Residencial Antonia Jesus (whose real name is Residencial Central, and it’s run by a woman named Antonia da Jesus). He said it is old, dirty, no hot water, with a room going for 12.50 €. JP could not find the other residencial, called the Residencial Ruinas. I have done some hunting on the internet and have come up with more information on its location: Street: Rua de Dona Maria Elsa Franco Sottomayor; Tel: 239941772. This website has a map: http://www.igogo.pt/residencial-ruinas/
p. 31 – town is not “Beira de Casconha,” it’s “Ribeira de Casconha.”
p. 31 – between Conímbriga and Cernache, there is substantial road construction. JP reported this to the Via Lusitana, and within two weeks, they had completely re-routed the Caminho. Here was the announcement I got:
“We would like to inform you that we made a detour in the Camino due to road works; this detour is between Conímbriga and Cernache, south of Coimbra.
The problem was reported by an American pilgrim 2 weeks ago and we have now made the necessary adjustments. Attached please find 3 kmz files with the mentioned detour, the Camino now passes in through the village of Eira Pedrinha. We don´t know how long the road works will take or if this will be a permanent situation, but we will keep you posted.”
I will send you the “3 kmz files” if you are interested; PM me.
p. 31 – in paragraph on Cernache, strike my “not many markings after that.” JP notes that the way is now extremely well marked.
p. 32 – 4th line notes construction. Construction is done, all is ok.
p.37 – As per an announcement of the Via Lusitania, part of the medieval bridge of Marnel has collapsed; the caminho has been re-routed.
JP stopped in Coimbra, unfortunately, so there are no updates from there on. If anyone else is on this Caminho, please let me know where the guide can be improved.
p. 12 – Alhandra – A January Pilgrim (I’ll refer to him as JP) reports that the Bombeiros Voluntarios offer a mattress, not just the floor.
p. 14 – Azambuja – Once again, JP slept on a mattress. He noted that pilgrims might want to check the temperature of the buildings before making a final decision, because there will be no heat. Not a problem in “normal” pilgrim season, of course.
p. 16 – Lodging in Santarém – Residencial Beirante is 35 € firm. Pensão Muralha is closed. Residencial Vitoria is 20€. There is also a sign indicating beds available at a place across the street from the Santarém train station in Ribeira de Santarém, but that is not directly on the Caminho.
p.17 – the “abandoned white building” at which a left turn is indicated upon leaving Ribeira de Santarém is abandoned no more. JP reports it has been fixed up. But note that he found that there was no arrow indicating the left turn, so keep an eye out (maybe it was lost during the renovation).
p. 18 – It is possible to break up the stage between Santarém and Golegã. Between Pombalinho and Azinhaga, there is a gas station with an attached restaurant called O Bacalhau and they have beds in the back in an unattached building. Clean and very useful. It is NOT directly on the Caminho, but rather one km back towards Pombalinho. You must walk along the road to get there.
p.18 – If you read the CSJ guide, you will note that I took a wrong turn here and wound up in the town of Pombalinho, which is not on the Caminho. But if you find yourself there, not to worry, it is a straight shot into Azinhaga along the side of a road. JP didn’t get lost, so maybe the arrows are better now. JP’s route took him to the right at the turn where I incorrectly went left, out of the woods, into agricultural fields. He adds the following notes: as you approach the paved road beside the very large grain silos, you can cut through a field to save two legs of a triangle. Turn left at the road, and four or five houses later on the left is the restaurant/gas station with beds. Good food reported.
p. 18 – Casa de Azinhaga in Azinhaga is a Casa Rural – 50€ bed and breakfast.
p. 20 – After sentence saying “Sign says you are entering Mala.” Looks like something has changed, you should NOT take a R at the Y junction, but a L. You will then not “emerge onto paved road,” (as the guide says), but will “stay on the paved road and arrive at Quinta do Matinho.”
p.20 – In the hamlet of São Caetano, there is now a private albergue. Details are on the CSJ website, on the “September 2011 update” page, including phone, email, and details. JP had a very nice evening with Alexandre Hachmeister and his wife Rita. I won’t tell you how much wine they consumed.
p. 21 – second paragraph – turn left onto a DIRT road, not a PAVED road.
p. 22 – in the first eucalyptus forest. Where I wrote “I didn’t see an arrow indicating the turn itself,” JP reports there is now an arrow. In fact, the arrow angels have been at work helping to guide pilgrims through the eucalyptus forest. But because the arrow is wooden, painted yellow, and has “Santiago” written in black across it, JP worries that these arrows will soon disappear into the hands of souvenir seekers.
Now, back to the guide and page 22 – after you pass the three transmission lines, there is now a yellow wooden arrow, on the ground, surrounded by stones, not nailed down in any fashion, again leaving JP to worry that it will soon disappear. So, if you lose the arrows, you can still follow my directions about following the large high voltage transmission poles and lines, they will take you where you need to go.
p. 24 – JP lost the arrows after the building that looks like a jail. This was a new-ish subdivision, so maybe there has been more construction. I would suggest that if you can’t find the arrows, you should ask for the “Ponte de Peniche.” (The bridge to Peniche.). It’s an old bridge, probably well know to the people in town. And from there, continue as the top of p. 25 suggests, under the highway.
p. 26 and p. 27 – JP shows that his bargaining skills are better than mine – he paid only 18.5 € at O Brás in Alvaiazere (I paid 20); he paid 20 € at the Adega Típica in Ansião (I paid 25).
p. 27 – 5th paragraph beginning “In Spring 2009,” JP adds that the road construction area seems to have been converted into a soccer field with seats.
p. 29 – Roman villa at Rabaçal is free for pilgrims (or maybe just for JP, because I paid 1.50 €). It sounds like there are cuts ahead for the curators who work at the museum/ruins, so who knows what the future will bring for visits to both the museum and the ruins.
p. 30 – Bar in Rabaçal across from the museum was open at 8:00 a.m.
p. 31 – For those staying in the town of Condeixa a Nova, a few kms from the ruins at Conímbriga, JP does not recommend Residencial Antonia Jesus (whose real name is Residencial Central, and it’s run by a woman named Antonia da Jesus). He said it is old, dirty, no hot water, with a room going for 12.50 €. JP could not find the other residencial, called the Residencial Ruinas. I have done some hunting on the internet and have come up with more information on its location: Street: Rua de Dona Maria Elsa Franco Sottomayor; Tel: 239941772. This website has a map: http://www.igogo.pt/residencial-ruinas/
p. 31 – town is not “Beira de Casconha,” it’s “Ribeira de Casconha.”
p. 31 – between Conímbriga and Cernache, there is substantial road construction. JP reported this to the Via Lusitana, and within two weeks, they had completely re-routed the Caminho. Here was the announcement I got:
“We would like to inform you that we made a detour in the Camino due to road works; this detour is between Conímbriga and Cernache, south of Coimbra.
The problem was reported by an American pilgrim 2 weeks ago and we have now made the necessary adjustments. Attached please find 3 kmz files with the mentioned detour, the Camino now passes in through the village of Eira Pedrinha. We don´t know how long the road works will take or if this will be a permanent situation, but we will keep you posted.”
I will send you the “3 kmz files” if you are interested; PM me.
p. 31 – in paragraph on Cernache, strike my “not many markings after that.” JP notes that the way is now extremely well marked.
p. 32 – 4th line notes construction. Construction is done, all is ok.
p.37 – As per an announcement of the Via Lusitania, part of the medieval bridge of Marnel has collapsed; the caminho has been re-routed.
JP stopped in Coimbra, unfortunately, so there are no updates from there on. If anyone else is on this Caminho, please let me know where the guide can be improved.
