Updates and changes on the Aragones route in the Pyrenees

[Isca-camigo]

This topic interests me because it might be a possible late walk this year if I can get the time. When I say changed I'm thinking has the route been made more off road than it was, I have seen a note on gronze https://www.gronze.com/etapa/borce/somport which mentioned a bridge being flown in to help with an off road section in 2021.
The infrastructure seems to be updating as well on the Spanish side with the addition of the albergue in Canfranc.
I remember seeing a news article several years ago about money being spent on this route in the Pyrenees area but didn't know what that actually would mean, can anyone say how the route has been improved if it has and what they expect to happen next if anything.

 

[Flog]

I walked from Somport to Sanguesa recently and didnt notice if anything has really changed since I walked it in early 2019, exept maybe some alteration of the path after Villenua. I can't speak for the French side. Yes, the new albergue at Canfranc is lovely, I was hospi there last October..

 

[Vacajoe]

Hey Flog! I, too, was a hospi in Confranc in November and noticed no changes from Somport to Jaca. Talking with fellow pilgrims who had walked the sections from Oloron to Puente la Reina, it seems that little has been changed. There are plans to fix the more dangerous parts of the route in France, but none of them had been completed as of 2021. That said, it’s still my favorite part of any Camino.

 

[Isca-camigo]

There are plans to fix the more dangerous parts of the route in France, but none of them had been completed as of 2021.

But gronze is saying as of 2021, not sure when, the French helicoptered a bridge in for the French side to take the route of road. I read your accounts @Vacajoe, so that must have been late in the season.

 

[Isca-camigo]

I just had a look again at Gronze and I think I picked up the helicopter bit from the ' Parrot' info bit which goes with every etapa. This newspaper article alludes to the bridge but because it is behind a paywall it can't be read in full https://www.larepubliquedespyrenees...-la-passerelle-des-gorges-d-enfer-4423237.php

And this on YouTube

 

[WanderlustingLawyer]

Hi there. I walked the Aragones last summer, starting a few stages prior on the Chemin d'Arles in Oloron St. Marie. I think what they may be referring to is a creation of an actual Camino trail between Borce and Urdos. Currently, the only route is on the shoulder of the N134 roadway, which is scary AF to be honest, because there are several blind turns and huge trucks and very very little shoulder. I literally walked back to Borce twice looking for signs that I got turned around, because I didn't think it was possible that I'd have to walk on that roadway. Eventually, I called the albergue in Urdos, and they confirmed that unless I wanted to take a bus from a town before Borce, the road route was the only way there. He was the one who mentioned the upcoming creation of an off-road path. So yeah, this part sucks. But I guess on the bright side, you get to walk past the Fort du Portalet, which is constructed into the mountainside and is beautiful to behold.

As for general infrastructure on the Aragones, it's so-so. Many of the tiny hamlets have no bars, restaurants, stores, and even if they have a Casa Rural, I found them to almost always be closed or booked out to whole families/groups (this was July 2021). Even in larger towns, I struggled to find open restaurants for lunch. It's gorgeous route, though, and if you can walk longer distances, I definitely recommend it.

If you're interested, I've posted lots of detailed videos about this Camino on my YouTube Camino channel (WanderlustingLawyer). Here is a video detailing that section between Borce and Urdos (sadly, it was also the day that I was nearly attacked by a dog):

 

[Isca-camigo]

Hi there. I walked the Aragones last summer, starting a few stages prior on the Chemin d'Arles in Oloron St. Marie. I think what they may be referring to is a creation of an actual Camino trail between Borce and Urdos. Currently, the only route is on the shoulder of the N134 roadway, which is scary AF to be honest, because there are several blind turns and huge trucks and very very little shoulder. I literally walked back to Borce twice looking for signs that I got turned around, because I didn't think it was possible that I'd have to walk on that roadway. Eventually, I called the albergue in Urdos, and they confirmed that unless I wanted to take a bus from a town before Borce, the road route was the only way there. He was the one who mentioned the upcoming creation of an off-road path. So yeah, this part sucks. But I guess on the bright side, you get to walk past the Fort du Portalet, which is constructed into the mountainside and is beautiful to behold.

As for general infrastructure on the Aragones, it's so-so. Many of the tiny hamlets have no bars, restaurants, stores, and even if they have a Casa Rural, I found them to almost always be closed or booked out to whole families/groups (this was July 2021). Even in larger towns, I struggled to find open restaurants for lunch. It's gorgeous route, though, and if you can walk longer distances, I definitely recommend it.

If you're interested, I've posted lots of detailed videos about this Camino on my YouTube Camino channel (WanderlustingLawyer). Here is a video detailing that section between Borce and Urdos (sadly, it was also the day that I was nearly attacked by a dog):

Thanks for this, the bridge is near the Fort, so it could be the start of avoiding the N134 for the Chemin Arles.

 

[Vacajoe]

It mentions the Chemin de la Mâture in the video which is a different route that intercepts the Arles near the Fort. Watching the video, it gives the impression that the new bridge is on the Mâture route, NOT the Arles. Hopefully someone walks it this spring and can confirm!

 

[Isca-camigo]

It mentions the Chemin de la Mâture in the video which is a different route that intercepts the Arles near the Fort. Watching the video, it gives the impression that the new bridge is on the Mâture route, NOT the Arles. Hopefully someone walks it this spring and can confirm!

One of the comments on the articles suggests that it takes you a different way to Somport which is via the Chemin de la Mature, but after watching a video of that route it I definitely wouldn't go that way in winter.

 

[Isca-camigo]

new bridge is on the Mâture route, NOT the Arle

Is that the bridge Gronze mentions on the link and was inaugurated in 2021?

 

[VNwalking]

@Alan sykes walked via the Chemin de la Mâture and then to the GR10 a few years ago.

In the meantime, to avoid the nasty narrow road up to Somport from Borce, I can strongly recommend a day's detour going on the Chemin de la Mâture, past the lovely lacs d'Ayous and up into Spain vía the Col des Moines, where monks welcomed pilgrims from Arles across the watershed for nearly a millennium. And then down to Somport and Canfranc. Very lovely, no tarmac, no traffic.

And:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/into-the-setting-sun-again.64720/post-791425

The Chemin de la Mâture is not for the faint of heart; if you have fear of heights it will be terrifying.

I read in a local webpage that it may no longer be accessible, though? Is this outdated information?

The "Chemin de la Mâture", an extraordinary path dug into the rock... - Urdos - Pyrénées-Atlantiques -

www.grandsudinsolite.fr

For safety reasons, the town hall of Etsaut has decided to close the entire chemin de la Mâture, including the climbing routes, with effect from 14/02/2020, until further notice.

 

[Linda Fantillo]

I walked from Somport to Sanguesa recently and didnt notice if anything has really changed since I walked it in early 2019, exept maybe some alteration of the path after Villenua. I can't speak for the French side. Yes, the new albergue at Canfranc is lovely, I was hospi there last October..

Can I reserve at the new albergue and if so, how?

 

[Vacajoe]

Well, that’s a good question. Per Gronze, no, though I know some folks were able to reserve in 2021 through the good hearts of the hospitaleros working at certain times. Due to the “no show” rate, though, I hope the official AND practiced policy will be “first come, first served”. Gronze lists a phone number and the albergue opens April 1st. Before that, no one is there.

 

[Flog]

Can I reserve at the new albergue and if so, how?

Officially not, but we were allowed to take some reservations last year. We had about 70 pilgrims in early October, the busiest period so far and just a handful of no-shows. I'm not sure what the policy will be this year..