LIVE from the Camino Update Camino Aragonés September 2021

[SioCamino]

Thanks again to everyone who provided me with tips and advice on this route. I am in Lumbier now and though i should try to add an update for my experience over the last week.

#1 Journey to Somport (Mon/Tues)
We flew ex Dublin to Lourdes, caught a train from there to Pau to overnight and then took the train to Bedous the next morning and the connecting bus to Somport.

#2 Somport to Canfranc (Tues)
We stocked up on food in bedous which was just as well as the albergue /bar at Somport was closed for its weekly descanso. The way was very clearly marked from here and was a beautiful route.
Unfortunately i was very unwell, i had had a tummy bug that i thought i had cleared before travelling but came back with a vengeance the night in Pau. So i walked very slowly to Canfranc, i was very weak and exhausted and struggled to even keep liquid down. I gave up in Canfranc-Estación and took a taxi to Canfranc leaving my brother to continue on foot. I phoned the lovely new albergue there to explain my situation and the hospis said to come straight. They gave me a truly wonderful and caring camino welcome and really took care of me. I was bundled up to bed to warm up and thankfully was able to sleep and drink a little. My brother and i were the only 2 pilgrims there that night. I am truly grateful for that experience, the albergue is beautifully kitted out and very very comfortable.

#3 Canfranc to Jaca (Wed)
My brother walked this section and had no problems with signage etc, he really enjoyed it and the photos look great. I decided against walking and took a lift from the hospis who happened to be heading to SJdlP for a tour. The albergue in Jaca didn't open until 3 but i was able to leave my bag in the court yard. I improved over the course of the day and managed some sightseeing and even a little food. We were the only 2 pilgrims at the albergue until about 9:50pm when 1 or 2 arrived in (we were already in bed) - they were gone by 6 so we never met! Covid restrictions - 50% capacity? Heating on so nice and cosy.

Writing this on my phone so will take a break now and add more later.

 

[Turga]

I hope you get well and have a Buen Camino!

 

[parttime pilgrim]

Many thanks for your up to date information. This is very helpful for the likes of myself who is dithering about going on the Camino Aragones, or any Camino.
Hopefully you will make a speedy recovery and enjoy the rest of your Camino

 

[SabsP]

Thank you @SioCamino for your update. Hope you will feel better quickly.

 

[SioCamino]

#4 Jaca to Arrés via SJdlP (Thurs)
Thankfully i was feeling much better by this day though not yet 100%. We took the advice from many on the forum and took the bus from Jaca up the monasteries. It was a really good service. The bus left Jaca at 9:15 and looking at the huge climbs and hair pin bend i was very relieved we didn't try to walk. The driver and staff there were super helpful and minded our bags, ferried us from the new to old and back again. We had a fabulous visit and it really is unmissable if in the area. After a picnic on the balcón, we were back on the bus around 2 and the driver kindly left us off at the Camino around 2km from Santa Cilia. As far as i know the albergue there is open but not until 6:30pm. We were aiming for Arrés anyway. The first section to Puenta la Reina was fairly ugh, easy but boring so while the climb to Arrés was tough we really enjoyed it. Apart from the smelly evil looking mushrooms along the way!!! We arrived at Arrés at 6:30. There were already 6 other pilgrims so i think with us 2 they were full in theory (50% capacity) but i don't think they would turn pilgrims away if they could? Carles and Jermane (?) both from Valencia were the hospis and again we enjoyed a most wonderful welcome. The communal meal was extremely generous and tasty, served at 8pm. There were 5 French (3+2) and 1 German in addition to ourselves 2 Irish.

#5 Arrés to Ruesta (fri)
This was a long enough stage for me but we broke it up but having a delicious lunch at Artieda. The albergue is open there but i wanted to stay in Ruesta. I loved the last hour /5km or so through the forest to Ruesta. Same 8 pilgrims there. We were glad to have had our lunch as dinner was served quite late here. Still i really enjoyed this, it was so unusual and beautiful.

#6 Ruesta to Sangüesa (Sat)
Maybe it was just as well that i didn't look at the profile of this stage though i might have had one less beer had i realised the big climb for 7km! (stomach all better now!!) We had had a night of torrential rain and thunder and lightning but thankfully it had passed on leaving only spots of mud to negotiate. The descent and ascent to Undues de Lerda was tricky and tough on the feet, especially as i have /had a blister brewing. We stopped for a picnic 2nd breakfast there which we had bought at Ruesta. UdL looks like a lovely well maintained town but the Albergue /bar there remains closed (por accidente laborale).
The next stretch to Sangüesa was a bit of a head down and press on. My brother went ahead as he had to get a bus from there to Pamplona and onto SS in order to fly out today. I caught up with him in Sangüesa before he left.
I stayed in the pension as the only guest, it was comfy and a nice break. The albergue there is open but was full with 7 or 8 pilgrims (the same asin Arrés and Ruesta plus another 1 or 2 new, i think Spanish.

 

[Former member 49149]

#4 Jaca to Arrés via SJdlP (Thurs)
Thankfully i was feeling much better by this day though not yet 100%. We took the advice from many on the forum and took the bus from Jaca up the monasteries. It was a really good service. The bus left Jaca at 9:15 and looking at the huge climbs and hair pin bend i was very relieved we didn't try to walk. The driver and staff there were super helpful and minded our bags, ferried us from the new to old and back again. We had a fabulous visit and it really is unmissable if in the area. After a picnic on the balcón, we were back on the bus around 2 and the driver kindly left us off at the Camino around 2km from Santa Cilia. As far as i know the albergue there is open but not until 6:30pm. We were aiming for Arrés anyway. The first section to Puenta la Reina was fairly ugh, easy but boring so while the climb to Arrés was tough we really enjoyed it. Apart from the smelly evil looking mushrooms along the way!!! We arrived at Arrés at 6:30. There were already 6 other pilgrims so i think with us 2 they were full in theory (50% capacity) but i don't think they would turn pilgrims away if they could? Carles and Jermane (?) both from Valencia were the hospis and again we enjoyed a most wonderful welcome. The communal meal was extremely generous and tasty, served at 8pm. There were 5 French (3+2) and 1 German in addition to ourselves 2 Irish.

#5 Arrés to Ruesta (fri)
This was a long enough stage for me but we broke it up but having a delicious lunch at Artieda. The albergue is open there but i wanted to stay in Ruesta. I loved the last hour /5km or so through the forest to Ruesta. Same 8 pilgrims there. We were glad to have had our lunch as dinner was served quite late here. Still i really enjoyed this, it was so unusual and beautiful.

#6 Ruesta to Sangüesa (Sat)
Maybe it was just as well that i didn't look at the profile of this stage though i might have had one less beer had i realised the big climb for 7km! (stomach all better now!!) We had had a night of torrential rain and thunder and lightning but thankfully it had passed on leaving only spots of mud to negotiate. The descent and ascent to Undues de Lerda was tricky and tough on the feet, especially as i have /had a blister brewing. We stopped for a picnic 2nd breakfast there which we had bought at Ruesta. UdL looks like a lovely well maintained town but the Albergue /bar there remains closed (por accidente laborale).
The next stretch to Sangüesa was a bit of a head down and press on. My brother went ahead as he had to get a bus from there to Pamplona and onto SS in order to fly out today. I caught up with him in Sangüesa before he left.
I stayed in the pension as the only guest, it was comfy and a nice break. The albergue there is open but was full with 7 or 8 pilgrims (the same asin Arrés and Ruesta plus another 1 or 2 new, i think Spanish.

So glad you are over the tummy bug. Lovely to keep up to date with your camino, thanks for posting.

 

[SioCamino]

#7 Sangüesa to Lumbier (Sunday)
I didn't fancy a long stretch to Monreal today as i have a small blister and want to give it a chance to heal. Again i had learnt about the Foz de Lumbier variante from various contributors here, thanks again. I enjoyed this so much. I managed to go wrong exiting Sangüesa and missed the arrows and walked all the way to Liédana by road. Not ideal but traffic was light and the sun not high enough to hit the tarmac. I righted myself at Liédana though actually briefly went astray when the Camino must take a short cut to the cia verde, i missed an arrow and ended up down at the river bank. But not for long.. I found the arrow and joined the via verde. What a stunningly beautiful route, the birds were amazing - the giffon vultures just enormous and so many of them! I was lucky i came through early as by the time i got to the other side of the 2nd tunnel there were lots of walkers, big family groups, walking groups etc. It had been quite peaceful for me.
In staying at the IruBide which is just lovely - i phoned yesterday and got a room for €40 (b00king had one for 65 i think). They were at pains to warn me that i couldn't have dinner this evening which suits me fine as i prefer to eat during the day. I'm now stretched out on my terrace like a beached whale after a most delicious menú - more expensive than usual camino fare but with it. Fabulous food. So thanks also for the hotel tip!

 

[Former member 31048]

Muchas gracias @SioCamino Great to read your updates. I love the Aragones Way and reading your account brought alive some of my fond memories from 2016 and 2019. Thank you.

 

[Juliana K]

Thank you very much @SioCamino for posting.It is nice to hear about Aragones. I want to do Arles which through Aragones. BUEN CAMINO!!!!

 

[SioCamino]

#8 Lumbier to Monreal (Monday)
Initially this was straightforward, the way from Lumbier was well marked with an initial spell on the main road (and a very dangerous place to close when following the arrows) followed by nice country lanes leading to the little aldea of Aldunate. That's where i ran into some trouble. Coming up from the village, you come to a junction with the main na2420 Road and there were absolutely no arrows or hints as to where to go! I easily spent a half hour going up and down the hill... I tried phoning a taxi to pick me and just take me to Izco but no reply! Thankfully i have a GPS app (gaia as recommended by someone on the forum and the gronze tracks downloaded), so i was able to figure out how to get to main camino route from Sangüesa. At that junction from Aldunate, you need to walk up the hill (ie take the right). Then watch out for a left a bit up the hill, easy to miss as it switches back to the left. Follow that for about a km and you meet the other camino route, take a right (left if coming from Sangüesa)
All's well that ends well... I had lunch in Izco no services but a few flowing fuente - i had a lovely tortilla sandwich from the hotel in Lumbier.
I got to Monreal about 3pm having set out at 8am or so. The albergue there is fine, you need to call the hospitalera to come and admit you. I took the opportunity to get a menu del día in the bar nearby before they closed for the afternoon. We were 5 pilgrims that night 3 Spanish 1 French and me.

 

[SioCamino]

#9 Monreal to Tiebas (Tuesday)
I wanted to take a short day for a number of reasons - i don't fancy 30kms! Tiebas is the last albergue open on the aragonés before Puente la Reina. Highly recommend, very clean and comfy and the local hospitalera Lourdes was most helpful and friendly. We were 3 pilgrims, 1 Spanish 1 French and me all coming from Monreal. I really enjoyed this stage, while i seem to struggle on hills, this is a very undulating s stage los if yo and down but very nice walking hugging the big hill, la higa de Monreal. Lovely short 13km to Tiebas.

#10 Tiebas to Ciraqui (today Wed)
And so to the end of the Aragonés! Nice easy straight forward walking to Puente and i really enjoyed finally seeing Eunate though it was unfortunately closed. I shared a nice lunch in PlR with the french pilgrim from the last few nights. I walked on then to Ciraqui.
I thought there would be huge numbers in Puente but it didn't seem overly busy. It looks like around 10-15 here tonight in Ciraqui.

So over and out in the Aragonés. I really enjoyed this route. It is quieter than others but so interesting, so many things to see and different landscapes. I would highly recommend!

 

[Anniesantiago]

#7 Sangüesa to Lumbier (Sunday)
I didn't fancy a long stretch to Monreal today as i have a small blister and want to give it a chance to heal. Again i had learnt about the Foz de Lumbier variante from various contributors here, thanks again. I enjoyed this so much. I managed to go wrong exiting Sangüesa and missed the arrows and walked all the way to Liédana by road. Not ideal but traffic was light and the sun not high enough to hit the tarmac. I righted myself at Liédana though actually briefly went astray when the Camino must take a short cut to the cia verde, i missed an arrow and ended up down at the river bank. But not for long.. I found the arrow and joined the via verde. What a stunningly beautiful route, the birds were amazing - the giffon vultures just enormous and so many of them! I was lucky i came through early as by the time i got to the other side of the 2nd tunnel there were lots of walkers, big family groups, walking groups etc. It had been quite peaceful for me.
In staying at the IruBide which is just lovely - i phoned yesterday and got a room for €40 (b00king had one for 65 i think). They were at pains to warn me that i couldn't have dinner this evening which suits me fine as i prefer to eat during the day. I'm now stretched out on my terrace like a beached whale after a most delicious menú - more expensive than usual camino fare but with it. Fabulous food. So thanks also for the hotel tip!

Thanks for this. I was wondering about this variant.

 

[Daniel H]

#8 Lumbier to Monreal (Monday)
Initially this was straightforward, the way from Lumbier was well marked with an initial spell on the main road (and a very dangerous place to close when following the arrows) followed by nice country lanes leading to the little aldea of Aldunate. That's where i ran into some trouble. Coming up from the village, you come to a junction with the main na2420 Road and there were absolutely no arrows or hints as to where to go! I easily spent a half hour going up and down the hill... I tried phoning a taxi to pick me and just take me to Izco but no reply! Thankfully i have a GPS app (gaia as recommended by someone on the forum and the gronze tracks downloaded), so i was able to figure out how to get to main camino route from Sangüesa. At that junction from Aldunate, you need to walk up the hill (ie take the right). Then watch out for a left a bit up the hill, easy to miss as it switches back to the left. Follow that for about a km and you meet the other camino route, take a right (left if coming from Sangüesa)
All's well that ends well... I had lunch in Izco no services but a few flowing fuente - i had a lovely tortilla sandwich from the hotel in Lumbier.
I got to Monreal about 3pm having set out at 8am or so. The albergue there is fine, you need to call the hospitalera to come and admit you. I took the opportunity to get a menu del día in the bar nearby before they closed for the afternoon. We were 5 pilgrims that night 3 Spanish 1 French and me.

I see that tricky spot on the map, thanks for your description so I don't follow in your footsteps, precisely. These posts are very helpful. Did you find GPS tracks of the variant through Lumbier? I was just going to use my best guess. Thank you for taking the time to share with those following along.

 

[SioCamino]

I didn't have GPS tracks for the variant but could see where i was relative to the main camino. This screenshot from the time might help? All was OK until Aldunate. The arrow shows my position having taken the right at the junction and then the left.

 

[SioCamino]

The other thing to note was i thought that perhaps the signage was not as well maintained or recently refreshed in Navarra as it was in Aragon. I know the Aragonés government are promoting the Camino in their region so perhaps the mojones and arrows are newer here. Certainly the painted yellow arrows for the last couple of days from Sangüesa were often quite faded.

 

[Daniel H]

I didn't have GPS tracks for the variant but could see where i was relative to the main camino. This screenshot from the time might help? All was OK until Aldunate. The arrow shows my position having taken the right at the junction and then the left.

Got it. I use Gia so I’ll have the main route. Enjoy the rest of your walk, and thanks again.