LIVE from the Camino Unfinished business on the Plata

[AlanSykes]

I first set off on the Vía de la Plata on All Saints, 2010. Since then it, and its offshoot the Sanabrés, has been a greater or lesser part of all of my caminos, other than last year and when I reached Santiago vía the Norte/Mar/Inglés. But somehow I have never walked from Benavente to Astorga - although I came south from Benavente to join the Zamorano-Portugués once.

That is the current plan, to get to Astorga on Saturday or Sunday, and see the Becerra.

So yesterday at shortly before 7am, to take advantage of Salamanca's street lights for a few km, I set off. A few hours later and I was in Calzada de Valdunciel, walking twice around its fuente. A neighbour, assuming I was a bit dim, came out of her house to show me how to get water from a tap. I explained that I was looking for the falangist symbol I remembered decorating the fuente. "Oh, that went long ago", she said. "Mucho mejor", I answered, although she seemed less sure. But the sinister bunch of arrows still decorates the war memorial under the church porch - I suspect churches have an exemption from the historical memory law.

From summer to winter in less than a month. Plus fascist drinking water

More romanesque churches than you could get round in a week in Zamora, Civil War reminders north of Salamanca and a castle which Napoleon disliked. Alan Sykes strides on towards Santiago de Compostela

www.google.com

The two days between Salamamca and Zamora are dull. The main excitement is the dozen or so km with the high watch tower of Topas prison slowly getting nearer and then receeding again.



There is a short patch of dehesa to break up the monotony of the prairie, where I met more of my beautiful grey fan-tailed friends.



Otherwise not a lot, other than crossing the border into Zamora province. Not as bad as between Zafra and Mérida, where I twice caught the cafard. Come to think of it, I once got frost bite on my hands on the approach to Zamora, which is probably worse.

 

[Stivandrer]

I remember this correctional facility. There was a hell of a loud racket as I was passing.
Thought it was either a prison rebellion or a fire drill, horns and shouting was incessant.
Hoped nobody was coming my way and as there was no movement in the shrubbery of the field, I stuck to latter explanation...
You are right, nothing else was exiting----

 

[Flog]

Enjoy the northern end of the Via de la Plata.. a quiet and quirky stretch, and you surely wont find many others..

Seemingly empty towns, interesting street art, a nice stretch of disused victorian railway line, an albergue with hospital beds, and a lovely approach to Astorga!

 

[AlanSykes]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.



A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".



Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.



If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

 

[VNwalking]

For those who like that sort of thing.

Not really. A bit weirdly voyeuristic, if you ask me. But I've so enjoyed following your walk in her footsteps, and San Juan de la Cruz's. Those two were cut from a different cloth from the rest of us, to be sure, not the least because of their toughness.

I met more of my beautiful grey fan-tailed friends.

OK. Challenge taken up. One more clue as to colour. I know you're fond of Hen Harriers, certainly grey - but with a fan-shaped tail? It doesn't quite fit, but that's my guess. Unless (chuckling) you are referring to feral pigeons?

El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente

I was wondering where you would cross the Duero this time. Zamora. Ah, lovely.

The old Puente de Piedra is closed,

Oh. A pity. For restoration? For good?

see the Becerra

This must brand me as a total philistine, but...
Well, I'll take the Romanesque in Zamora any day. Better yet anything Pre-romanesque.
Anyway, may it be a joy. And getting there, of course. It always is on our end, in the reading. Many thanks - your posts have been a much-needed positive diversion this last week.

 

[jalluisi]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.

View attachment 180695

A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".

View attachment 180694

Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.

View attachment 180693

If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

View attachment 180696View attachment 180697View attachment 180698View attachment 180699View attachment 180700

Beautiful pictures!

 

[AlanSykes]

Shortly after Montamarta, finally, I caught sight of the foothills of Sanabria and, very faintly, the line of what can only have been Padornelo's pass into Galicia, about 100km off. A biting east wind made me slightly wish I'd dug my gloves out. I had been promising myself coffee at Fontanillas de Castro, but the bar was shut. On to Riego del Camino, whose Bar Pepe used to have mythical status with Plata veterans as a contender for Spain's dirtiest bar (it had fierce notices inside forbidding photography, presumably fed up after awestruck pilgrims felt they had to document the improbable experience). But it's closed down for good, and a new bar, 100m off the camino on the other side of the road, the "Biblioteca", is clean and welcoming and does nice tapas and is generally disappointingly normal.

A short detour off the camino takes you to the "colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain. Latterly used as a quarry for dressed stone, at 2 reales a cartload - the church at nearby Granja de Moreruela is apparently largely made from stone cannibalised from the monastery.

 

[Kirkie]

Another dawn start, another perfect crisp clear autumn day. Many of the villages between the Duero and the Tormes are surnamed "del vino", but are now mostly cereal. I think for the first time since leaving the Mediterranean, there are no sierras visible in any direction.

View attachment 180695

A few hours in, almost entirely on dirt roads and, after a slight ridge, Zamora became visible at about 10km away, "la perla del Duero", glittering in the noonday sun. Shortly afterwards, the camino joins the GR14, my friend from last year, "la senda del Duero". With the tower and dome of the glorious cathedral of "la bien cercada" becoming more prominent all the time.

Eventually you arrive at the Duero. The old Puente de Piedra is closed, and they've re-routed the camino over the modern Puente de los Poetas, a bit to the west. Possibly an even more spectacular riverscape than the usual entrance. Just beautiful. As Machado puts it "El Duero corre, terso y mudo, mansamente".

View attachment 180694

Straight up to the cathedral, and on into town by the new (to me) "La Milla Romanica", a Roman mile taking in nine of Zamora's main Romanesque churches between the cathedral and Santiago del Burgo, 1610 metres later - with optional detours to San Andrés, next to the albergue, and several others.

View attachment 180693

If I ever decide to live in Spain, it will be by the Duero, and either in Zamora or Soria.

View attachment 180696View attachment 180697View attachment 180698View attachment 180699View attachment 180700

Such a beautiful word, mansamente...you are a skilled wordsmith yourself, of course...

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @AlanSykes Thank you for a great report. It only serves to motivate me all the more. On May 17th 2013 (my late fathers 99th birthday), in light rain I left Merida walking with David a Basque young man who was most helpful in keeping me on track. Unfortunately those old Roman coble stones and broken tiles all but crippled me after 5 days. Now I aim to return to the great university city of Salamanca, again in May (2025) and walk to Santiago. Buen Camino

 

[chinacat]

"colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain.

What a beautiful building … still beautiful ….

 

[VNwalking]

What a beautiful building … still beautiful ….

My thought too. Ransacked for easily reused stone, as though it were a quarry. I'm amazed anything is left at all.

 

[Flog]

My own recollection of it from wandering around it back in 2018 was that it was astonishingly beautiful, but largely intact.. was I dreaming?

 

[peregrina2000]

A short detour off the camino takes you to the "colossal wreck" of the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, possibly the first Cistercian monastery in Spain

Love those apses! Alan, how did you do this? Did you walk from Zamora and then swing out at some point to go up to the monastery? I’m asking because the only time I made it out to the monastery in Moreruela (at least the only time I made it there on foot), I stopped in Granja, dropped my pack, and then walked out and back. Looks like you have found a smarter way. Actually I have a vague memory that others have done just that, but I am not able to find it by searching.

Anyway you slice it, it looks like a stage of more than 40 km!

 

[Flog]

I stopped in Granja, dropped my pack, and then walked out and back.

I did the same..

 

[VNwalking]

Anyway you slice it, it looks like a stage of more than 40 km!

Grf, becoming unattainable for some of us. Go Alan, go. Long may that be possible for you.