LIVE from the Camino Two Canucks and a baby

[SnapDecision]

Day 1

Completed Porto to Povoa de Varzim today en route to Santiago de Compostela. We're definitely pretty beat.

Lessons from today:

1. For us: Bring the Credencials with you (don't leave them in the luggage transfer bag). Thankfully we got the first one at the Porto Cathedral and a second one at our hotel this evening.

2. For everyone: The boardwalk from Gafa to Ávore is out about halfway in between. Additionally, sand dunes have consumed whole sections of the boardwalk, which is now 1.5m under the sand in some places! This makes it very difficult for anyone traveling with wheels, particularly strollers. Perhaps I missed this in various route updates?

Tomorrow Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende.

 

[Kgaynor]

If you are going along the boardwalk to esposende, there is a significant chunk of the boardwalk broken and you have to walk through the sand/sand dunes. I cut over to the central route after that. I was told that more sections of Boardwalk were broken after esposende.

 

[Rickcrna]

I would not cut over to the central simply because one has to walk in sand for short distances on the Senda/Coastal route. If you’re using a stroller you will have to traverse many types of difficult surfaces on any Camino route I.e. cobblestone, dirt paths with rocks and tree roots, steep grades, etc. Navigating with a stroller or wheeled device on the Camino is going to be very cumbersome and unpleasant.

 

[Kgaynor]

There are many factors involved in changing a route. Sand is only 1 small factor. I agree that the way is challenging on foot.

 

[SnapDecision]

If you are going along the boardwalk to esposende, there is a significant chunk of the boardwalk broken and you have to walk through the sand/sand dunes. I cut over to the central route after that. I was told that more sections of Boardwalk were broken after esposende.

Thanks for the info! We're in Esposende tonight and will plan our route accordingly. Much appreciated!

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 2

Great weather and high spirits today. We met a few fellow Canucks and chatted with many other pilgrims. The feeling of interconnectedness is real.

We kept a brisk pace despite high winds all along the route.

Highlights of the day:

1. Trying Clarinhas de Fão with coffee at Pastelaria Clarinhas.

2. Chatting with the owner of KIRU about his laser etching and souvenir shop just across the Cávado River from Fão.

3. Sitting on our balcony and watching the waves break at Esposende.

Tomorrow: Esposende to Viana do Castelo

 

[SnapDecision]

Day Three (15 May)

Long day of walking from Esposende to Viana do Castelo. When we we're told bringing a stroller would be difficult, they were likely talking about today. Even with a robust trail stroller it was tough in some parts through the woods. We took an extended break in Chafé to build us up for the final push across the Pont Eiffel into VdC.

Tomorrow (16 May): Rest day in VdC

 

[Kildare]

If you are going along the boardwalk to esposende, there is a significant chunk of the boardwalk broken and you have to walk through the sand/sand dunes. I cut over to the central route after that. I was told that more sections of Boardwalk were broken after esposende.

Hi I'm walking the coastal route on July 6th after hearing about the broken board walks I think I will also cut over to the central. Is this hard to do? My sense of direction isn't great

 

[SnapDecision]

Hi I'm walking the coastal route on July 6th after hearing about the broken board walks I think I will also cut over to the central. Is this hard to do? My sense of direction isn't great

The broken section isn't so bad if you're walking. It was only tough with a stroller. Little bit of sand walking

 

[SnapDecision]

Day #4 (16 May)

Rest day in VdC, PT. Laundry and tourism. Too bad the funicular is offline. We would have enjoyed the Basilica. Otherwise a nice day exploring the shops and streets.

 

[SnapDecision]

I would not cut over to the central simply because one has to walk in sand for short distances on the Senda/Coastal route. If you’re using a stroller you will have to traverse many types of difficult surfaces on any Camino route I.e. cobblestone, dirt paths with rocks and tree roots, steep grades, etc. Navigating with a stroller or wheeled device on the Camino is going to be very cumbersome and unpleasant.

It's been cumbersome but not unpleasant. We'll let you know if that changes.

 

[SnapDecision]

Day Five (17 May)

Today was a learning experience. We were both feeling a bit beaten still despite the rest day. From the maps of the two possible routes today we decided that the terrain may be too rough for our stroller and bodies, so we took the train from VdC to Caminha. Once their, we met two friendly Aussies we'd chatted with prior. They said the littoral route was actually quite pleasant and free of obstruction. So we finished lunch and took a taxi back nearly as far as Afife.

It was a great decision. The weather was fantastic and it was a beautiful part of the coast. Baby met some friendly livestock and we did a bit of Geocaching en route back to Caminha.

Great day.

Tomorrow: Caminha to A Guarda.

Tchau, Portugal!

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 6 (18 May)

Today we said Hola to Spain. Insodoing, we learned another lesson. Don't assume YouTube videos of the Camino from years past are still accurate. For example, the passenger ferry across the Minho River isn't running currently, like I had assumed. There is a hodge podge of private water taxis in its place. They are pretty informal, and we were halfway across before we realized we weren't offered any flotation safety devices. Thankfully the trip is quick.

We opted for the longer littoral route and were glad we did. The boardwalk to A Guarda is in great shape (minus one spot we tip toed around). There is a detour due to construction about 10min from the water taxi but it takes you thru some nice countryside.

Made it to A Guarda for sunset. Fantastic.

Tomorrow: A Guarda to Oia.

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 7 (19 May)

Baby had a great long sleep so we missed breakfast at the hotel. No sweat, Panadaria Morales, in A Guarda, was quite excellent. Thus, we hit the trail later than expected.

We detoured off the route to check out the Castelo de Santa Cruz, rejoining the trail just outside town. A particularly rocky section of trail forced us to backtrack and road walk, which wasn't bothersome because the route rejoined the road only a kilometer or two away.

We met and chatted with some friendly Americans from Michigan. Go Spartans!

After an extended break for lunch at Explanada do Horizonte we powered our way to Oia. We're not tired of watching the waves crash yet.

Tomorrow Oia to Baiona.

 

[Kildare]

Day 7 (19 May)

Baby had a great long sleep so we missed breakfast at the hotel. No sweat, Panadaria Morales, in A Guarda, was quite excellent. Thus, we hit the trail later than expected.

We detoured off the route to check out the Castelo de Santa Cruz, rejoining the trail just outside town. A particularly rocky section of trail forced us to backtrack and road walk, which wasn't bothersome because the route rejoined the road only a kilometer or two away.

We met and chatted with some friendly Americans from Michigan. Go Spartans!

After an extended break for lunch at Explanada do Horizonte we powered our way to Oia. We're not tired of watching the waves crash yet.

Tomorrow Oia to Baiona.

Really look forward to reading ur posts. Steph ireland

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 8 (20 May)

We hit the road early today and took advantage of the great pedestrian/cycle lane along the road to keep up a brisk pace. We wish they had these lanes back home!

We stopped at Artesania Pedra Rubia for a stamp, and also chatted with the Canadian owner(?) of O Peñasco. He gave us some great tips for the rest of the route to Baiona. Awesome dude. Thanks, eh!

Around the next point we could start to make out the Talasco Atlántico Hotel, our next rest stop. Impressive looking hotel and restaurant. Had pretty shotty service and wondered why. Pilgrims? Baby? Who knows. We'd steer clear in the future.

The Camino crosses the road and proceeds uphill down a trail about a kilometer before the Talasco. We opted not the attempt it with a stroller, instead remaining on the paved walkway along the road. This decision likely added several kilometers to our day but nixed any substantial elevation change and kept us along the beautiful, wild coast. Good decision.

We were an hour outside Baiona when we had the first sprinkle of rain of the trip. It was very light and short-lived. We entered Baiona refreshed.

Tomorrow: rest day in Baiona (21 May)

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 9: 21 May

Rest day in Baiona today. Dad was overcome with food poisoning, so Mom and Baby took advantage of the beach.

Camino!

Tomorrow: Baiona to Nigrán

 

[Rickcrna]

From Nigran, the alternate Camino route alongside the river all the way to Vigo was very enjoyable. Well marked. Easy access from West end of Nigran. Recommended by Wise Pilgrim app.

 

[SnapDecision]

From Nigran, the alternate Camino route alongside the river all the way to Vigo was very enjoyable. Well marked. Easy access from West end of Nigran. Recommended by Wise Pilgrim app.

Great route! Very enjoyable.

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 10 (May 22)

Dad still sore from the lingering effects of food poisoning, we navigated the route from Baiona to Nigrán. Very pleasant walk with lots of stroller-friendly terrain.

The walk along the Rio Muíños as we entered town was particularly serene. It occurred to us that we hadn't encountered the crowds of pilgrims that we had expected along the Camino. Generally, it's been quiet except for nice chats with fellow pilgrim we meet at rest stops.

Our hotel was a 10min walk from the Parque Comercial Nasas Nigrán. It was very handy for pilgrim purposes to have a plaza with two grocery stores and a Decathlon so close-by. Baby enjoyed the curious and friendly horses in between as well.

Tomorrow: Nigrán to Vigo

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 11 (May 23)

On the advice of @Rickcrna we took the route along the water today. Lots of variation in terrain as we switched routes from the traditional coastal route to the route that hugs the coast (the naming convention needs some work!). We've really enjoyed the short forays off the marked routes, through Spanish neighborhoods and rural areas. Folks in these neighborhoods seem pleased to see pilgrims passing though and have been very friendly. Great route with some very nice beaches (minimal beach walking, ~100m, some stairs).

We've noticed fewer parishes along the marked route offering credencial stamps since arriving in Spain. Is this the case? We're accumulating many from hotels and cafés.

We've also been wondering if it matters that the stamps are dated. Will search the forum for answers.

Great day overall.

Tomorrow: Rest day in Vigo.

 

[Rickcrna]

Some stamps are dated….we found most were not. It’s perfectly fine to write the date next to the stamp as you acquire them. That way, you can easily demonstrate getting 2 stamps every day from Vigo onward.

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 12 (May 24)

Rest day in Vigo. Stocked up on some baby and parent pilgrim essentials, and did laundry. No tourism, just rest and preparation.

The weather was on our minds. The first substantial rain of our trip happened today. It was a steady, fine rain. There was a little thunder and lightning, but people seemed to ignore it and go about their business. We discussed whether we'd continue walking had we been on the trail, or whether we'd seek shelter. No conclusion reached. I guess we'll see tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day, and every other day in the extended forecast.

Tomorrow: Vigo to Redondela

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 13 (May 25)
Our app showed two routes out of Vigo today, one nearer the water and one up through town. We had a bumpy time navigating the core of Vigo two days prior especially along Av. da Beiramar. There are no curb ramps and  lots of driveway curbs into the various workshops and businesses. A lot of up and down for baby and stroller; this made the route along the water tricky, so we decided to go up through town on the way out.

Much of the elevation gain was in the first 90min, our Golden Hour of the day we've come to learn. The rest of the day was a peaceful trail walk on excellent, stroller friendly trail. Hot in the sun but perfect in the shade. Some outstanding views of the water down below and of the Ponte de Rande as well.

We entered Redondela and made our way to our accommodation. Haven't noticed an increase in the number of fellow pilgrims, but we'll see tomorrow.

Tomorrow: Redondela to Arcade de Riba

 

[Rickcrna]

Bravo to you guys for taking on the steep route out of Vigo and through some of the hill neighborhoods. For those that do, the views of the city and river are spectacular. Indeed the trail becomes quite nice after the initial ascents. Keep on going!!

 

[Franklyn]

Day 8 (20 May)

We hit the road early today and took advantage of the great pedestrian/cycle lane along the road to keep up a brisk pace. We wish they had these lanes back home!

We stopped at Artesania Pedra Rubia for a stamp, and also chatted with the Canadian owner(?) of O Peñasco. He gave us some great tips for the rest of the route to Baiona. Awesome dude. Thanks, eh!

Around the next point we could start to make out the Talasco Atlántico Hotel, our next rest stop. Impressive looking hotel and restaurant. Had pretty shotty service and wondered why. Pilgrims? Baby? Who knows. We'd steer clear in the future.

The Camino crosses the road and proceeds uphill down a trail about a kilometer before the Talasco. We opted not the attempt it with a stroller, instead remaining on the paved walkway along the road. This decision likely added several kilometers to our day but nixed any substantial elevation change and kept us along the beautiful, wild coast. Good decision.

We were an hour outside Baiona when we had the first sprinkle of rain of the trip. It was very light and short-lived. We entered Baiona refreshed.

Tomorrow: rest day in Baiona (21 May)

Thanks for the tip on Artesania Pedra Rubia. It was a lovely spot to make a brief stop. Charming owner and artisan. We would have walked right by had I not read your post. Unfortunately, O Pensaco seemed to be closed. Very much enjoying your posts. We are also two Canucks ( but seniors so definitely no stroller with us!)

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 14 (May 26)

We got a bit of a late start again today but didn't have too far to go. Great terrain through villages or well maintained trails.

Made it into Arcade pretty quick and decided to explore the town and get some laundry done. The skies opened up en route back to our accommodation and we spent 30min peeling off and hanging wet clothing.

Tomorrow: Arcade de Riba to Pontevedra

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 15 (May 27)

Tough day to push a stroller. Lots of uphill chugging and navigating rocky trails, at least for the first third of the walk. Got a tip from a friendly local about which way was less of a steep climb. Unfortunately, our Spanish is very rudimentary and we misunderstood his directions. Completing the steeper stretch was more satisfying in the end.

We stopped between Lusquiños and O Marco for lunch and watched the thunder clouds grow darker and nearer. The last hour of the day was spent speedwalking into Pontevedra and dashing awning to awning through town to escape the rain.

Tomorrow is a long day, and we're sad we can't spend more time in Pontevedra. It seems like a really nice city. We'll have to come back.

Tomorrow: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 16 (May 28)

We got a late start (starting to see a trend!) but kept a brisk pace today. The route from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis runs through some lovely forest and pasture. The rain yesterday meant it runs through some streams that cross the paths as well, which made Dad feel rugged and outdoorsy crossing with the stroller.

The constant, distant thunder also helped maintain the pace, although significant rain never materialized.

We've nearly filled our credencials and are debating how to proceed. One of us wants to get some new ones and try to fill them prior to SdC, the other wants to fill every surface of the current ones, even if it means overlapping previous stamps. Thoughts?

Tomorrow: Rest day in Pontevedra (long story).

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 17 (May 29)

Took a rest day back in Pontevedra after hiking the stretch from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis. Cabbing back to our stopping point tomorrow to start the final push.

All rain gear is at the ready for the next few days.

We're keeping in our thoughts all those affected by the wildfires back home in Nova Scotia.

Tomorrow: Caldas de Reis to Padron.

 

[Rickcrna]

Caldas to Padron is one of our favorite stages. Be sure and stop for refreshments at the Buen Camino cafe in San Miquel de Valga. Picturesque little village. Although the steps to enter the cafe are quite steep, you can get in via the exit ramp just past the steps on the right. Enjoy the day!

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 18 (May 30)

Great day of hiking through the woods and villages on the approach to Santiago de Compostela. The rain again threatened but never materialized. Thus far the dark clouds have only been an excuse to rest: "Oof that looks like a dark cloud, better stop for a drink/gelato/etc until it blows over..."

The route still hasn't been as crowded as we thought it might be. The vast majority of our pilgrimage has been the three of us walking alone.

Tomorrow: Padron to Teo

 

[Laisee]

Day 18 (May 30)

Great day of hiking through the woods and villages on the approach to Santiago de Compostela. The rain again threatened but never materialized. Thus far the dark clouds have only been an excuse to rest: "Oof that looks like a dark cloud, better stop for a drink/gelato/etc until it blows over..."

The route still hasn't been as crowded as we thought it might be. The vast majority of our pilgrimage has been the three of us walking alone.

Tomorrow: Padron to Teo

Buen camino! You're almost there!

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 19 (May 31)

Today was similar to yesterday. Very pleasant hiking through country forests and villages. We did a little 10min detour around some bumpy ground but the terrain has otherwise been stroller friendly this week.

We are grateful that we're entering Santiago de Compostela tomorrow fatigued, but uninjured. It's nearly been twenty days, and we're still learning something new about the Camino and how to handle its rigors everyday. We've already started discussing our next one.

Tomorrow: Teo to Santiago de Compostela

 

[SnapDecision]

Day 20 (June 1, 2023)

And just like that our journey has ended.



We completed the last dozen kilometers from Teo in warm, sunny weather. The route was mainly road, sidewalks, and groomed trails. Today was definitely the most crowded walk, but it was filled with other tired, joyous folks. We enjoyed it immensely.

Entering Praza do Obradoiro and sitting beneath the grand cathedral was an experience we'll never forget. We met a couple from the UK who also completed the Camino with little ones and chatted over lunch. Then shortly before 7pm we walked down to the pilgrim office to pick up our Compostelas. We were in and out in 15min. They've got a great, streamlined system, yet you don't feel rushed, or like just a number. Kudos to the staff of the Pilgrim's Office.

Tomorrow: Rest day in Santiago de Compostela. I'll post some final thoughts.

 

[Kildare]

Day 20 (June 1, 2023)

And just like that our journey has ended.

View attachment 148345

We completed the last dozen kilometers from Teo in warm, sunny weather. The route was mainly road, sidewalks, and groomed trails. Today was definitely the most crowded walk, but it was filled with other tired, joyous folks. We enjoyed it immensely.

Entering Praza do Obradoiro and sitting beneath the grand cathedral was an experience we'll never forget. We met a couple from the UK who also completed the Camino with little ones and chatted over lunch. Then shortly before 7pm we walked down to the pilgrim office to pick up our Compostelas. We were in and out in 15min. They've got a great, streamlined system, yet you don't feel rushed, or like just a number. Kudos to the staff of the Pilgrim's Office.

Tomorrow: Rest day in Santiago de Compostela. I'll post some final thoughts.

Well done guys

 

[JoshuaJames26]

Day 20 (June 1, 2023)

And just like that our journey has ended.

View attachment 148345

We completed the last dozen kilometers from Teo in warm, sunny weather. The route was mainly road, sidewalks, and groomed trails. Today was definitely the most crowded walk, but it was filled with other tired, joyous folks. We enjoyed it immensely.

Entering Praza do Obradoiro and sitting beneath the grand cathedral was an experience we'll never forget. We met a couple from the UK who also completed the Camino with little ones and chatted over lunch. Then shortly before 7pm we walked down to the pilgrim office to pick up our Compostelas. We were in and out in 15min. They've got a great, streamlined system, yet you don't feel rushed, or like just a number. Kudos to the staff of the Pilgrim's Office.

Tomorrow: Rest day in Santiago de Compostela. I'll post some final thoughts.

We're planning on walking, potentially the Portgual route, with a baby. Amazing thread – thanks!

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day #4 (16 May)

Rest day in VdC, PT. Laundry and tourism. Too bad the funicular is offline. We would have enjoyed the Basilica. Otherwise a nice day exploring the shops and streets.

I imagine laundry facilities are even more precious to pilgrims with babies!