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Trondheim (Nidaros) to Santiago de Compostela

...it´s 33 degrees Celcius. Galicia is experiencing an Octubrian heat wave. Temperatures are the highest in recorded history...so I swim and sink up to my neck in the Rio. Then I head off to the local polizei for advice and before long I´m tucked up between cool white sheets in a bed near an excellent Chocalatier and Cafe.

In Betanzos Peregrino accommodation is available at the Poliportivo-sports stadium: mats provided, no blankets. I no longer carry a bedroll and sleeping bag, I discarded them and nearly everything else in my muchilla a few days back. I hope to sleep in a bed every night from now on in....
 

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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Day 413 cont...Betanzos by night...
....and that night I roam the streets and eat fatty grilled bones with charcoaled meat as mosquitos ping and zap my skin and clammy damp rises from the river. And all the while I am entertained by the delightful tales of a pilgerman hauling a 12-kilo rucksack on his aching back stuffed with:

4 shirts
4 pairs of trousers
4 pairs of properly matched soxs and everything else
plus a pletora of cosas such as: flip flops, sandals, a huge flask of water, shaving cream and a great smelling deodorant...[deodorant....wow...wouldn´t mind some of that] and, of course,
sun screen

For many years this pilgerino with shining face and a hopeful heart lived far too well on sauerkraut und fortifying kartofel. He whiled his life in delightful ways driving elegant people in elegant cars, reading complicated novels without doing a stitch of exercise. Then one day he dreams The Dream. He jumps on a plane to the ends of Spain and alights near Ferrol and La Costa da Morte with great excitement and blood-zinging fervour.

He sets off.

Three days later (or was it two?) he washes up in Betanzos with screaming ligaments and angry bones and barnacled joints which have totally siezed up and there he takes a break

for 3...4...or maybe 5? days...
-Lovingkindness
 

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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
...and at the museo, Betanzos... where I had an excellent time discovering local history, exploring artifacts and chatting with a local artist who takes inspiration from illuminated manuscripts and ancient stone carvings.....
 

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Day 415 ...following El Costa Doce PR-G 96 (Sada to Lorbé)
 

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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Days 415 cont... El Monumento Natural Dexo-Serantes: ...following the coastal path PR-G 87 from Lorbé to Mera
 

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...and in Dexo a romanesque Iglesia plus cemetary and weeds....
 

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Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Day 416 exploring the coast line arround Mera and Seixo Branco
 

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Day 417 Mera to Santa Christina via Maianca where there is a pre-romanesque Iglesia with the crosses of Santiago and various other saints painted above each of the porche pillars....
 

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..... Santiago dC is the end of dreams.......a place where peregrinas die.... Santiago is a soaring cliff a ´wall´I just can´t scale.....
 

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Perhaps approached from an unexpected angle...there may be a way up and over that wall. Perhaps going to the very ends of the earth, the edge of the known world..then scaling a simple city wall would be nothing...not for one who has traveled so far and seen so much. Then perhaps you can begin to dream new dreams...new pilgrim dreams...we don't die...we wake to something new. Buen Camino mi amiga!
 
Days 418 to 420 ...in A Caruña...

...and so I promenade within my mind amidst ancient thoughts and treacherous seas and as I walk beneath brilliant skies my feet connect with others......
 

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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
...and I sleep beneath the out-stretched wings of a bird and allow the joy of others to lift my mood until eventually one cold grey dawn I leap over my Self to Freedom...
 

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Day 421 El Camiño Inglés A Caruña to Tabeaio (15 kms)
...there´s something about walking tarmac which saps the will and induces a mystical weightlessness. As the body succumbs to a ritualised dance of repetitive motion a zombie-like state blossoms then shrouds and suspends one´s mind in.... in.....some other space. And just when you think you can´t stand anymore, when you´re dehydrated and bored and tired an interesting thought flashes through one´s brain and suddenly it´s not so bad afterall. A thesis burgeons and expands into intricately expounded philosophies and arguments and in a fantastical altering flash the outer world disappears and creativity alights....

A Caruña to Bruma is a distance of 32 kilometers. About 29 of these are on tarmac. There is a blessed moment beside a tidal river and also a stretch of dirt camino which passes by a smelly pig farm before entering a forrest...
-Lovingkindness
 

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
...and so to Tabeaio (15 kms) where the N 550 runs within five minutes walk to the right of the trail and one can find a bar, a restaurant and a couple of Pensiones.....
 

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Day 422 Tabeaio to Bruma (17kms)
...and what a magical day. First it was windfall apples and conference pears and purpley green figs on the ground. Then came a bunch of sweet grapes on a vine, untended and spiralling wild. And after this as the aromatic scent of Eucalyptus leaves zinged the air and gum nuts crunched underfoot a great mound of ripe strawberries swam into view so I stopped and indulged until my fingers were pink and my clothes were stained red and a mess...
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Truly LOL! I remember mentioning strawberries...and you wished for some! Lo and behold... And that statue of St. James is a real beauty. Lovely live face on him...actually looks like someone you could talk too, unlike so many of the others. Buen Camino...
 
...and so to the Bruma albergue...
There´s something about that moment when solitude vanishes and curiosity awakens and into your silence comes fun. There´s no saying when it will happen or where abouts nor which kind peregrino inspires it. Some peregrinos are a one-journey type of bird and others make an annual peregrinaje. But in Bruma there appears almost every week a widowed octagenerian. He walks out his front door in Ferrol and follows El Camino Ingles all the way to Santiago de Compostela. ( I don´t know what he does there, I forgot to ask). Then he jumps on a bus back to his home and after a few days sets off again. He has made the journey at least 30 times. Along the way he greets many friends, he hangs out at a few bars and keeps delightful company with peregrinos. He is a Legend.

The albergue in Bruma is well appointed. It combines the remains of a medieval pilgrims´ hospital with up to date facilities which include a ktichen, two bathrooms and a playground with fabulous swings and a seesaw. There is a bunk room below and a mezanine floor above and lots of steaming hot water. A Grocery van appears between 5.30 pm and 6.
-LK
 

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Day 423 Bruma to Sigueiro
...and after Bruma there is more tarmac for an hour or so but then comes the best bit of the Camino Ingles: a wonderful stretch of eucalyptus and pine forrests, along dusty tracks and out of the way hamlets almost all the way to Sigueiro...on a very hot thirsty dry day....and all the while I am singing Hallelujahs and trying hard not to think past tomorrow......
 

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Yes indeed, every Kiwi girl loves those sheep! I have begun 'training' recently Lk as I am planning to walk from Cluny next April. My French friends- I met Francis on the Camino in 2008- have told me that the route is quite difficult, and full of ascents and descents, so I must train. And I have begun by walking up and down some of the hills on the roads behind Palmy- Kahuterawa and Turitea Rds have some good hills. And at this time of year, there are not only sheep for me to see, but also lambs... (The other route I would like to be walking is of course the Manawatu Gorge which has some great hills, but no sheep: unfortunately it has been closed for months now by a giant slip, and looks likely to be closed for some time yet.)
Thinking of you as you arrive in Santiago...
Margaret
 
I was so happy to hear from you!
You were in my thoughts all day yesterday, wondering, "Where IS she?"

(Mother) Annie :roll:
 
Day 424 Sigueiro to Santiago de Compostela...and before dawn I jump out of bed and eat desayuna in a bar with the spry energetic octagenarian. He gives me a kiss and a great big hug and as he gets ready to sprint out the door I bless him....
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
A truly amazing journey- on many levels. Congratulations on your arrival in Santiago- and may you know blessings on the 're-entry'.
Margaret
 
Thank you for sharing the journey LK. As others have said, it's been an enormous privilege to follow you. Rest well and many prayers for the way ahead,

Andy
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Congratulations LK. Your journey has been an inspirartion as you have so generously shared it with us. Thank you for the time you have spent doing so and may the days ahead be filled with rest, peace, and serenity. Again - well done. regards, Janet
 
Unbelievable! Congrats! I felt like opening some champagne when I read the news. It has been wonderful following along with you and often worrying about how you were doing.
Have a great time in Santiago wish I could have been there when you arrived,to meet you.
Regards
Heather
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Congratulations, LK! It has been such a pleasure to follow your remarkable journey. Thank you so much for sharing it with us.

lynne
 
I feel strongly for shouting out greetings from the land of your starting point (Ivar es un español ahora :) and thanks to him for this forum!

Personally, it has been a great pleasure to follow you, LK. Thank you for given so much of yourself; all your wonderful photos, all your interesting (and complex) thoughts, your ups and downs, and we have also been able to glimpse some of your spiritual journey. I take part in the joy St. Olaf and St. James (and the other Lovingkindness) have now!
And, for your next steps, I just say: Ha det bra. God tur!
Oyvind, pilegrimInSpe
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Thank you LK for sharing your pilgrimage in such an amazing and inspirational way! So much poetry in posts and pictures, I admire your courage and trust. I'm a newbie preparing for my first camino. Following you has given me a deeper, more complex and absolutely beautiful first impression of what the Camino is all about. With gratitude I wish you peace and blessings,

Elisabet
 
Hi Lovingkindness,

Congratulation. I have followed your pelgrimage now for a jear, except the three months i was myself on the way. Looking for your messages was in fact the first thing i did in the morning. It was a great pleasure. Thanks.

Servaas
 
I know there's a long line waiting to congratulate you, so I'll be brief in saying that I've thoroughly enjoyed your dispatches: through both your photography and your writing I've found that you have a very special eye for Camino/Life details. I've been moved by so many of your posts- thank you for sharing your journey with us. Please add my name to the waiting list for the forthcoming (?) book. :D
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Funny, just reading that you'd made it, slowly going thru all the congrats from all over, and had a mental picture of you...walking into the Praza on your own, quietly. And those around you having not a clue of the invisible hoard all cheering for you as you made your way into the cathedral! Although now that I give it more thought, I guess in a way it's often that way with pilgrims, isn't it? Well done mi Amiga... Rest well, enjoy some quiet non walking time and may I echo Telluride...put my name on the list por favor!
 
LK,
Part of my daily life was searching on this Forum for your stories and your beautiful pictures.
Thank you for sharing and congratulations with your arrival at Santiago de Compostela.
Have a good rest and all strength for another life.

Jan Brilleman
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
WOW!

Congratulations!


I'm almost sad that I won't have your lovely photos and interesting posts to follow.

But I'm happy for you!
Happy you made it safe and sound.
WHAT A JOURNEY

:::doing a little happy dance::::
 
Lk, warm congratulations and many cyber-hugs to you on completing this incredible camino. I have been following it from the start, oh so many months ago. Like many other repeat peregrinos, for me, the arrival in Santiago is always bitter sweet. This is the first time, though, that I would say that the arrival of someone else is bitter sweet for me. I am very sorry to see this journey end, yet I applaud your huge achievement. Those of us who have followed your long journey have had the privilege of the arm chair traveler -- watching from afar, no effort on our part, just soaking up your reports, your fabulous pictures, your keen observations. You have made it all very real and very alive for us, and I thank you for that. Whatever your next step may be, I wish you all the very best and hope to follow you on your next adventure. Abrazos, Laurie
 
..... raising a glass, shedding a tear, a few tears.

............ buen camino always, peregrina.

PS. What will we do now??? :roll:
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
LK
in my home language
they have only one word for your achievement
ongefokkenlooflik

I second that. Congratulations!
Petro
 
As travelers oft look back at eve
When eastward darkly going,
To gaze upon that light they leave
Still faint behind them glowing
So, when the close of pleasure’s day
To gloom hath near consigned us,
We turn to catch one fading ray
Of joy that’s left behind us.
-The Journey Onwards: T Moore.
 
Lovingkindness:

Your blog has been excellent. Twenty-six thousand hits show it popularity. Thank you for the great photos. You were in every one of them.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Dear Lovingkindness,
I so looked forward to your posts- they seemed to keep my Camino flame glowing with special brightness - a special thank you for that inspiration. And if at times you felt an 'extra load' on your back it was me (and maybe one or two others :lol: ) shamelessly 'piggybacking' on your journey from the comfort of our armchairs always impatient for the next installment.
They say the role of Seanachi is never an easy one and the more skilled the storyteller the more demanding the audience :oops: .
Safe home and hearts ease.
Nell
 
LK,

What does one do after such a journey? Where in the confusion of all that has passed does home seem to be? So much to be thankful for, and yet so much wonder to try and grasp. My sense is this journey is far from over. Tread lightly, take your time and the path ahead will appear. Wherever that takes you the prayers of many will be your constant companion. Rest now.

My peace I give to you...
 
hi!
never said anything, but allmost everyday I would see if you had post something about your journey.
I was one of the cheering croud upon your arrival...
I will miss your posts.
I'll buy the book! :-)
take care
ovelha
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Dear LovingKindness,

What an amazing journey. Congratulations. You are inspirational for what you have achieved. I will miss reading your posts, but look forward to the day when you have a book published !!

Your feet will enjoy the rest, and I hope you also now have the opportunity for rest, before you plan the next adventure.
God bless,
Sandra.
 
bravo,
j'ai suivi votre voyage
merci pour tout
le retour chez vous sera peut être difficile ,courage,la vie est un pélerinage.
amitiés
dominique

congrutulations
i red about your treap every week
thank you
perhaps coming back at home would be not easy , keep your chin up.Life is a great pilgrimage.
kind regards
dominique
 
Having taken a day or two off from the computer, I've had quite a few blogs to catch up on...when lo and behold, this line meets my astonished eyes!:

"Tuesday 18th October.

We got up and went for breakfast at the Parador, there was only one other person, a New Zealand lady who had done a long camino but didn't want to tell us much about it. "

The world gets so small sometimes!! Hope this finds you resting and happy, Karin
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
petro said:
LK
in my home language
they have only one word for your achievement
ongefokkenlooflik

I second that. Congratulations!
Petro

I would also second that
In addendum it can be followed with the below

"uitsonderlik besonders welgedaan en werklik uitsteekend, sonder huiwering of herhaling"
 
LovingKindness,

Congratulations on reaching the conclusion of your epic journey. I remember way back in France when you needed new boots. That seems so very long ago.

Wishing you LovingKindness to yourself during this time of transition as you wait for your heart and mind to catch up with your body.

Nancy
 
LovingKindness,
Congratulations. Thank you for the many hours of pleasurable reading that you have given me. Your pilgrimage has been inspirational and I am in awe of your achievement. You have always remained humble in spite of what you accomplished. And yes....I am waiting, hopefully, for your book!
Sharon
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
LK, Congratulations! What an amazing impact your incredible journey has had on so many pilgrims. I am sure most of us shed a tear when you reached Santiago, and our lives will never be the same again but now we are all waiting for the book. Words cannot express how you have enriched all our lives. Go well and enjoy your rest.
 
Lovingkindness... where are you now???
I miss you and your beautiful posts. :(
Where ever you are, I hope you are warm and dry and happy and have a wonderful Christmas!
Annie
 
What a photograper's eye you have. Grand to have carried your camera on the Way. Thank you for sharing your pictures and your words. Hope my Camino is as rich as yours was.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Dear Loving Kindness,

I am hoping to hike the Camino this Fall, or next.
I will have around 6 weeks.

I have enjoyed your posts so much. Could you tell me which path you would recommend for me...walking solo?

My very first time.

thanks so much.

Linda
 
Hello, Linda. Mucho Gusto. Thank you. I’m not quite sure how to give advice. Perhaps a few questions might help:

What is calling you to the Camino? What has captured your imagination? Is your dream of walking to Santiago de Compostela linked to a particular route, an event or something historic? Does it matter to you where you walk or will any Camino do? Some pilgrims prefer immense solitude, others like company. How about you?

When I set off to Santiago de Compostela for the first time (May, 2004) I had no idea that there were other Caminos out there or that pilgrims walked from farther afield. I left on a whim carrying a few pages from a Lonely Planet book, notes from a CSJ guide and a photocopy of Book V from the Codex Calixtinus (English translation). The CSJ Forum didn’t exist back then so there was no one around to answer questions. I bought gear without advice, immersed myself in ‘The Miracles of Santiago’ –Anonymous IV then took off for Roncevalles…..and there I found…surprise, surprise....70 excited Others! The Camino Frances for me was one of rough nights and joyous camaraderie.

When I set off from Cadiz along the Via de la Plata (October, 2009), I discovered the Romans. I wanted solitude and miracles and that’s what I got -45 days out of 59 entirely alone and no one to sleep by in the albergues. Autumn/Winter along the Via Sanabres is powerfully beautiful but cold. It was near 40 degrees C. from Cadiz to just before Merida on the Via de la Plata then the wind came up and temperatures plummeted to near zero….

….When I was hiking through France (May, 2011) I happened upon a woman bewitched by saints and pilgrimage. She saw my scallop shell as I sat eating in a boulangerie and invited me home. We drove through the woods to a beautiful house and there I was introduced to dozens of figurines and saintly objects ‘living’ on shelves and in crannies. With radiant face she told of a spiritual awakening, something to do with the Virgin of Medjugorje.

Later we dined in the gloaming listening to the birds and the crickets and when the waning sun slid beneath the trees her husband asked, Why Santiago de Compostela, why are you walking there? So I spun a tale about medieval pilgrims and Aquitanian polyphony, of loving God and loving prayer and the musicians on a twelfth century tympanum. I am fascinated with the Codex Calixtinus. Suddenly the husband jumped up and raced into the house. He returned cradling a silk-covered box with intricate clasp. Inside lay an exquisite rare edition of the Codex Calixtinus which he had been instrumental in printing. L’Espiritu Sancto breathed…..and I sighed in awe at His guiding….

Linda, much has been written about the Caminos in Spain and those in France, too. Perhaps you might read a few of the threads on this forum, hunt out books and CDs. I’m sure it won’t be long before something grips your imagination and your Way becomes clear.

Buen Camino,
-Lovingkindness
 
Resources
Trondheim (Nidaros) to Santiago de Compostela (18 Aug, 2010 -15 Oct, 2011)

Hi there,
here are links to the resources which I used in my camino from Trondheim (Nidaros) to Santiago de Compostela. For accessibility I have posted the resources in other Threads on this forum. Scroll down a little and you will find my entries.

Ultreia, ultreia
E sus eia
Deus, adjuva nos!


-Lovingkindness

Norway
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/long-distance-pilgrims/topic13763.html

Denmark

Germany
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...os-in-germany-and-surrounding-countries.9448/

France

Trier to Vezelay:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/the-vezelay-route/topic9592.html

Vezelay to St Sever:
Chassain, Monique.Voie Historique de Vézelay ‘Via Lemovicensis’. De Vézelay à Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port par Bourges et par Nevers en 36 étapes. 5th edition. 2011

St Sever to Bayonne:

Bayonne to Irun:

Spain

Tourist brochures & albergue lists (Oficina de Tourisme: Irun, Bilbao, Potes, Leon, Oviedo, A Caruna).



 
Last edited:
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
I am amazed, gobsmacked, and delighted! Long as I have been part of this board, today is the first time I have looked at this thread, a YEAR LATE! And it is FABULOUS.

I am so sorry I missed the whole thing while it was going on, I would have gone many miles to meet Lovingkindness -- I am gutted to know she walked the Vad and the Salvador, so nearby, so beloved, and I missed walking a day or two with her! (But she took such magnificent photos, I didn´t need to. And she DOES like her solitude!) I also wish I´d known she was so ill in Leon, I could´ve brought her chicken soup...

Oh well. I should´ve paid better attention. I hope you reappear soon, Lovingkindness! God keep you,

Reb
 
.................Thanks........................................................for the chicken soup...
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Hi Lovingkindness,

The past few evenings I have been reading the whole thread about your epic journey from Trondheim to Santiago de Compostela and just wanted to say that I loved every minute of it. I only wish I had known about it when you were actually out there walking. As I read your posts I laughed, I cried and was awed by your stunning photos.

Also I became very curious what made you set out on such a long journey, and why from Norway? How long did you think the walk would take you? And what impact had such a long walk on you mentally, compared to your shorter caminos. Of course I am also curious if you made a book out of all your thoughts, photos and notes as many persons hoped you to?

In September I set out on my second Camino on CF. Unfortunately only for 10 days but one day in a distant future I hope to be able to take the time to walk all the way from home (Sweden) to Santiago. You certainly inspired me to start thinking about it.
 
Salut, Camillis. I will consider your questions over the next period of time as I continue my pellegrinaggio in Italy. I find there is never a single reason for doing anything in this life. Just when I think I understand myself enlightenment comes and perspectives shift and change. No, i haven't published anything yet. It is still the time for walking.

Blessings on your preparations and Camino this September, Camillis.

Ultreia!
Lovingkindness
 

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