Third big Camino , del Norte primitivo queries

[Deepforest]

I've completed the Camino Frances, and last year walked from Lisbon to finesterre. This year I'm hiking out of Irun and doing the del Norte and switching onto the primitivo.

I'm wondering if I need a sleeping bag? I'm walking in July and August. I've never needed one on either of the other two, but I'm told the del Norte is colder? Is this right? Spain in july?

Secondly, my friend mentioned the cicerone guide? Is this the one to get?


Lastly, are the chinches as common on the del Norte/ primitivo? I've only encountered them once so far but I like preparing myself for the reunion.


As always, any advice from my fellow peregrines is greatly appreciated.


I can't wait to walk again. I'm excited, like a boy!!!!!

 

[LakeMcD]

Deepforest we seem to be on the same camino schedule of Frances, Potuguese and Norte. Check out the GR10 from SJPD to Hendaye/Irun to start your trip with 4-5 days in the Pyrenees.

Buen Camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I've used cicerone for the Primitivo and it is fine. It's thick though and with little info per page which is a pain. For the Norte, being fluent in Spanish, I ised the guide by Editorial Buen Camino and really liked it. It also shows the cycling routes.

 

[MichaelSG]

I just completed that route on Sunday. My wife and I stayed mostly in cheap hotels and pensións but also a handful of albergues. It was cold outside but never inside. The albergues we were in all had blankets but with our sleeping sacks, we didn't need them. Also note that the season has changed. When we walked through Bilbao almost a month ago, it was about 10 degrees Celsius at noon. Today, I saw a pharmacy sign at 5:00pm - 35.5 degrees. Yikes. Of course, that is in the city and not in the mountains but I think I bag would be useless unless you really get cold every night, even at home. I also brought along the cicerone guide but never really used it except for information on interesting buildings. The path is very well marked, I had iPhone GPS as a backup and used the Gronze site, maps.me and booking.com for beds. I never saw a bedbug or heard of any complaints. Buen Camino!

 

[MikeJS]

Look at the Wise Pilgrim app

 

[backpack45scb]

I did have a bedbug issue in Guermes albergue. My wife was in the bunk next to me and had no problems.

 

[Deepforest]

So will my cotton liner will do in July , Micheal? We start July 1st to early August.
Looking at all the pictures online the del Norte and primitivo look wetter than Ireland!!!
I don't mind a wee bit of rain or fog in the hills, it's expected but I hope to get some sunshine. Any del Norte primitivo summer walkers have any comments?

I'm hoping it's not as my friend has said it will be good but I'm sure it won't be as sunny weather as the Portuguese Camino or de France.

Being a rain soaked Irishman I'm hoping for lots of sunny days.
I think my cotton liner will suffice. I'll spray my gear in permethrin, has worked for me so far...

 

[NoQ]

I did have a bedbug issue in Guermes albergue. My wife was in the bunk next to me and had no problems.

I would hazard a guess that almost all albergues have suffered from bedbugs at one time or another. The vast majority will do everything to eradicate them when found, with only a couple of repeat offenders not bothering about the issue. The albergue mentioned above, La Cabana, gets great reviews on Spanish sites and no mention of bed bugs.

 

[Deepforest]

Yup, I'm not naive, I would say it's a constant possibility, but I follow the drills and have kept clear of them. Spotted a live one in carrion de la condes before, so checking and following drills really helps.

Any suggestions on whether it's necessary to pack this sleeping bag around for 1000km? I'm tempted to go with mycotton liner but my friend is sticking with his sleeping bag.

 

[Deepforest]

Can I pick up a credential in the albergues in Irun?

 

[NoQ]

Yup, I'm not naive, I would say it's a constant possibility, but I follow the drills and have kept clear of them. Spotted a live one in carrion de la condes before, so checking and following drills really helps.

Any suggestions on whether it's necessary to pack this sleeping bag around for 1000km? I'm tempted to go with mycotton liner but my friend is sticking with his sleeping bag.

I'll be on the Primitivo in August and I intend to just take a summer sleeping bag, which is basically a liner anyway. Based on previous summer Caminos, there has never been a time I felt I needed a warm sleeping bag inside an albergue. I can't see the temperature being cool enough in an albergue to warrant a larger sleeping bag. If it does get strangely cold at some point, I'll juist wear clothes, a fleece and grab any blankets, but I really doubt that will be necessary indoors.

 

[MichaelSG]

So will my cotton liner will do in July , Micheal? We start July 1st to early August.
Looking at all the pictures online the del Norte and primitivo look wetter than Ireland!!!
I don't mind a wee bit of rain or fog in the hills, it's expected but I hope to get some sunshine. Any del Norte primitivo summer walkers have any comments?

I'm hoping it's not as my friend has said it will be good but I'm sure it won't be as sunny weather as the Portuguese Camino or de France.

Being a rain soaked Irishman I'm hoping for lots of sunny days.
I think my cotton liner will suffice. I'll spray my gear in permethrin, has worked for me so far...

I certainly wouldn't take anything more than a liner, particularly in July. If you were looking at my photos of the Norte / Primitivo, yes, we had a few days with rain but rarely heavy. We had lots of days of clouds but we welcomed them. It made the walking nice and cool. The really sunny days were fewer but the sun sapped our energy noticeably. Keep in mind though that we walked in April / May which is traditionally wetter than July & August. I am betting that you will enjoy the walk. Buen Camino!

 

[Deepforest]

Michael, can I ask if you'd recommend anywhere to take a zero day, one that isn't too touristy? My friend likes when we allow for one or two.

Also any albergues I should try to skip when scheduling days?
I read a post about rats???? in one. Seems strange.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...east-not-until-you-have-read-this-post.37007/

Or are there any ones you'd recommend?

Do you think we'll meet many other pilgrims, is it as quiet as they say or are the old posts not a fair reflection on things as they are now? I'm hoping it wont be too quiet. Last years walk out of Lisbon resulted in nearly two weeks before any real pilgrim traffic.


Thanks for any advice.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Yup, rats at the monk's in Zenarruza. Was I ever glad I did jot stay there!

 

[MichaelSG]

Michael, can I ask if you'd recommend anywhere to take a zero day, one that isn't too touristy? My friend likes when we allow for one or two.

Also any albergues I should try to skip when scheduling days?
I read a post about rats???? in one. Seems strange.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...east-not-until-you-have-read-this-post.37007/

Or are there any ones you'd recommend?

Do you think we'll meet many other pilgrims, is it as quiet as they say or are the old posts not a fair reflection on things as they are now? I'm hoping it wont be too quiet. Last years walk out of Lisbon resulted in nearly two weeks before any real pilgrim traffic.

Thanks for any advice.

We normally don't take rest days but the bigger places certainly have enough to explore to warrant a longer stay. San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander, Oviedo, Lugo are all good potential rest spots. Lugo was our favourite of these but in Oviedo, you need to make sure you have time for a proper tour of the Cathedral, whether it's during a short day or a rest day.

Albergues not to miss include Guemes and Bodenaya. I don't know of albergues to avoid. The few that we stayed in and the ones our friends stayed in were all good with the possible exception of Roots and Boots in Lugo.

Regarding pilgrims, we walked with some everyday, more so on the Primitivo. With the exception of two unusual stopping points, we always met at least some, if not many, pilgrims in the evenings, despite staying mostly in pensións, hotels or casa rurals. For comparison, the pilgrim count was more than Lisbon to Porto but not as many as Porto to Santiago. As always though, the closer we got to Santiago, the more pilgrims we met. There was a jump after Oviedo, a bigger increase after Lugo and obviously a massive increase after Melide. The only portion that I thought was particularly devoid of pilgrims was when switching Caminos between Villacoisa to Oviedo.

Other than that, the summary from my blog may provide some more advice: http://memismscaminodelnorte.blogspot.sg/2017/05/some-final-thoughts.html

Buen Camino!

 

[Deepforest]

Michael, you're a star. Thank you for the reply. I'm going to use your blog as planner guide. Many thanks.

The pilgrim numbers you describe sound perfect.

Yes roots and boots.... stayed in the one in Santiago, was a memorable experience.

Many thanks Michael.

 

[james walter purdum iv]

How many days from Irun to Santiago??

 

[Anemone del Camino]

How many days from Irun to Santiago??

30-37 for most, depending on how long they makes their stages. I would plan on 40 myself.

 

[Deepforest]

We've planned 40 to finesterre, so about 36 to santiago. We've walked a fair few caminos by now so hopefully we are kinda ok with schedule.

 

[alaskadiver]

I finished the Primitivo a week ago. I wish I had not carried a sleeping bag. ALL the albergues and pensiones have blankets if you happen to get cold. It was warm inside and covering up was never needed.
No bed bugs and nobody seemed to even care. Permethrin does nothing for them anyway. A silk liner would be good just because the disposable sheets at the municipal albergues are crappy and fall apart easy.

 

[SYates]

@alaskadiver You normally live in --- Alaska, what is hot for you, might be chilly for us weaker beings ;-) BC SY

 

[alaskadiver]

@alaskadiver You normally live in --- Alaska, what is hot for you, might be chilly for us weaker beings ;-) BC SY

Yes, but everyone was hot. There was almost nobody with sleeping bags and the windows were all open. I tend to cold easy at night. Even the locals are complaining about the heat. It will be even hotter in August.

 

[MichaelSG]

Yes, but everyone was hot. There was almost nobody with sleeping bags and the windows were all open. I tend to cold easy at night. Even the locals are complaining about the heat. It will be even hotter in August.

Yes but reaction to temperatures are always subjective to the individual. You were about a week behind me and we found most nights cold. Neither me nor my wife ever needed a sleeping bag but our few nights in albergues were on the cold side. More frequently we stayed in cheap hotels and pensions so we piled on the blankets or turned up the heat. For an example, I just had a look at Accuweather for the temperature in Campiello where I remember needing the heat turned up on 12 May. We ran from dinner to the hostal to keep from freezing and I see the recorded temperature was a balmy 53-65F (12-18C) that day. I am not sure if you stayed there but I see that a week after us on 19 May, it was actually colder - 48-62F (9-17C). My wife would have needed a parka that night. In Fonsagrada on 15 May, it got down to 54F (12C) and again we had the heat turned on inside and we had our jackets and hats on outside in the evening. One week later, about when you might have gone through, it got even colder to 49F (9C) but you felt warm.

Finally, since the OP is planning both the Norte and the Primitivo, I'll repeat that it was certainly colder on the Norte compared to the Primitivo. Still we didn't need sleeping bags there and I am pretty sure that he wouldn't need them in July / August either. That said, I'll leave that up to him since he knows how well he tolerates cold at night.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

And let's not forget the normal fluctuatuions in weather. From ome day to the next, from one week to the next. You may hit a heat wave, or or week of cold temps for the season. One's experience on the same date but in different years may be very different. Come prepared for what may be, within reason.

In other words, it's not because a persons walked in usual weather for the season that you also will a few days later, or a year later.

 

[LakeMcD]

Any need for mosquito spray? I didn't need it on the Frances or Portuguses, but wondered about the Norte?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Any need for mosquito spray? I didn't need it on the Frances or Portuguses, but wondered about the Norte?

I have yet yo see a single mosquito in Spain or Portugal.

 

[Tia Valeria]

I have yet yo see a single mosquito in Spain or Portugal.

We have seen a few and heard them, on the Ingles and the Norte! Most did not live to bite us and we never carry repellent spray. We did find some midge like insects with a nasty bite this year but they were near Grado not on the Norte.

 

[alaskadiver]

Yes but reaction to temperatures are always subjective to the individual. You were about a week behind me and we found most nights cold. Neither me nor my wife ever needed a sleeping bag but our few nights in albergues were on the cold side. More frequently we stayed in cheap hotels and pensions so we piled on the blankets or turned up the heat. For an example, I just had a look at Accuweather for the temperature in Campiello where I remember needing the heat turned up on 12 May. We ran from dinner to the hostal to keep from freezing and I see the recorded temperature was a balmy 53-65F (12-18C) that day. I am not sure if you stayed there but I see that a week after us on 19 May, it was actually colder - 48-62F (9-17C). My wife would have needed a parka that night. In Fonsagrada on 15 May, it got down to 54F (12C) and again we had the heat turned on inside and we had our jackets and hats on outside in the evening. One week later, about when you might have gone through, it got even colder to 49F (9C) but you felt warm.

Finally, since the OP is planning both the Norte and the Primitivo, I'll repeat that it was certainly colder on the Norte compared to the Primitivo. Still we didn't need sleeping bags there and I am pretty sure that he wouldn't need them in July / August either. That said, I'll leave that up to him since he knows how well he tolerates cold at night.

Campiello was the chilliest place for us. Mainly because it was overcast and rainy. It was low 50's. Most people had on a rain jacket or a light warm layer in the evening at night when walking around.
You carry and wear what you know makes you comfortable.

 

[alaskadiver]

We have seen a few and heard them, on the Ingles and the Norte! Most did not live to bite us and we never carry repellent spray. We did find some midge like insects with a nasty bite this year but they were near Grado not on the Norte.

I got bit 3 times on my arm and my thigh by something. I'm guessing it's those midges. I didn't see any skeeters. I had a stick of Benadryl itch stuff and it got used! Those little bites were itchy for days later.

 

[SYates]

just make sure it wasn't chinches! BC SY

 

[poogeyejr]

Any need for mosquito spray? I didn't need it on the Frances or Portuguses, but wondered about the Norte?

I had a very allergy active Camino - Sept/Oct 2013. It was 25-30 degrees Celsius. Mosquito bites in the woods, some sort of poison ivy or other rash creating plant East of Deba and then Chinchas in Markina-Xemein. I was the sample/example patient at the hospital in Castro Urdiales when I went in for an allergy shot. Turns out I am allergic to bed bugs!

That said . . . no one else was bothered by the mosquitoes so it might not be worth carrying until you run into the need for it.

 

[Tia Valeria]

just make sure it wasn't chinches! BC SY

We saw these 'midges' there was a cloud of them outside the window! We shut it, but not before some of them got into the room.

 

[Deepforest]

Thanks guys an

Yup, rats at the monk's in Zenarruza. Was I ever glad I did jot stay there!

Zenarruza? Is that the name of the albergues there?

 

[Deepforest]

Thanks guys, and particularly Micheal. I've decided not to pack a sl bag. I'm gonna carry my cotton liner. I can always put on my merino layers if need be.

I'm packing a merino base layer and a mid weight merino layer, both are far lighter than even the most basic fleece. I assume that will be enough. It can't be much colder than here in Ireland and I rarely need the mid weight merino layer at all.

I'm hoping for some nice days. I read micheals blog, which was a great help and a blog where a woman abandoned after day nine on the del Norte and took the bus to Pamplona. She then redid the de France route.

Have to say her picture were not encouraging. Muddy tracks, rain and slippery wet rocks covering the sides of hills.

Sounds fierce like rainy Ireland.
I really love the heat and sun, I'd argue we need it after an Irish autumn winter and spring.

I really hope we get plenty of sunny days, Portugal was boiling last summer and the de France was great the year before. A month walking in rain willl send me running for st jean, and I'd hate to do that.

Thanks everyone for replying.

 

[poogeyejr]

I walked the Norte twice for a total of 8 weeks and had no more than 5 days of rain. (May-June 2011) (Sept-Oct 2013)

 

[intrepidtraveler]

If you love the heat and sun have you considered either the Via de la Plata or the Camino Madrid?