Accommodation
The wide availability of WiFi along the VF del sud made it easy to book accommodation each day using websites such as Booking.com, TripAdvisor and Bedandbreakfast.com. So having a written list of places to stay is much less important today than it was a few years ago. The exception I would make is the excellent accommodation list kept by the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome for the Via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome.
Many B&Bs either don't have signs, or only small signs on the doorbell of the building and the locals often don't know where they are. Many B&Bs are simply apartments in residential buildings and the owner does not live onsite, requiring arrangements to be made regarding arrival.
Sometimes the locals don't know the names of smaller streets like
viales and
contradas either, and many idiosyncratic local names did not appear on my maps. So GPS coordinates would be ideal, but very few B&Bs have them. Some use WhatsApp, and you can ask them to send their location via WhatsApp.
Some B&Bs have a variety of phone numbers in various lists and booking sites. Sometimes it was not obvious if a number was a fixed line or a mobile phone, which is relevant if you want to send a text message. Some numbers were not answered at all, especially if the owner was at his/her day job and was not resident onsite. Sometimes the mother of the owner answered my call. All this can be confusing and highlights the need for some understanding of Italian on the VF sud.
Rather than give phone numbers, I have provided websites that have contact details.
I was the first guest of the season at many places so maybe the chaotic booking and reception arrangements I experienced were partially due to the fact that they were not yet into the swing of things.
Quite a few did not serve breakfast, and gave me a voucher for a coffee and
cornetto as a nearby bar. That seemed to be the standard breakfast offered in most B&Bs, with no juice, bread or cheese. I like to start my day with a good breakfast, so I found this fare to be too skimpy. All the places on my special list (see below) provided substantial breakfasts.
Not all the places I stayed at were “pilgrim friendly” because most of their clients were normal tourists arriving by car or other transport and the reception person did not really appreciate the special needs of pilgrims for early meals, washing/drying facilities and efficient booking/reception. In that respect, the VF del Sud was probably no worse than the VF itself.
Some of the places I stayed at were special, however, and although I have mentioned most of them in earlier posts I will list them here again. I call them my “VF Angels” - a wonderful term borrowed from the Trail Angels along the Israel National Trail. I think it is especially important to patronise such places if at all possible. In this way we will gradually build up a group of accommodation providers who are sympathetic to the needs of pilgrims, as well as rewarding them for their care of us.
Villa Aulina, Castel Gandolfo (
http://www.villaulina.com/)
This B&B is quite a way off the VF del sud route and is not ideally located, but I was welcomed kindly and it had gardens and a tranquil atmosphere. Cost: B&B €35, hb with wine €48.
Minerva Domus, Cori (
http://www.minervadomus.it/en/)
This B&B is located in the atmospheric old town, close to shops and a bus stop, but some distance off the VF del sud route. The only problem was the stiff uphill climb to get to it. I liked it because of the warm welcome and personal attention I received after a very difficult day of walking.
Casa Salvi B&B, Sezze (
http://casasalvi.dovedormi.it/?qqq=contact)
When I phoned to book, the owner spoke only Italian but she called an English-speaking friend and neighbour (Ruth, an American expat and English teacher) to make the booking arrangements with me. They were both remarkably kind. When I started to eat my Spartan lunch of cheese and the remnants of some rather stale bread, the owner was horrified and brought bread, olives and tomatoes to add to my repast. Ruth invited me to dinner and to use her washing machine. It was a real morale booster to meet these kind people and enjoy the wonderful view down into the plains. The B&B is located outside of town and close to the VF del sud route.
Locanda Borgo Antico, Fossanova (
http://www.locandaborgoantico.it/en/)
This B&B is expensive, but very modern and comfortable - and right in the Abbey Complex on the VF del sud route. It would make a great place to spend a rest day. The woman at reception spoke good English and gave me some cakes and coffee for lunch. The only restaurant in the Abbey complex was closed on the day I arrived, and the receptionist offered to drive me to another restaurant some distance away if I wanted to eat there instead of having a snack at the café in the complex. When I left next morning, she gave me her phone number to call if I needed help with booking my next accommodation. To her I was a real human being, not just “Room 5.”
Il Gatto e la Volpe, Terracina (
http://www.bed-and-breakfast.it/en/latium/il-gatto-e-la-volpe-terracina/16319)
It was not easy to find on arrival, as there was only a small sign above the doorbell to the building. I had to ask at the next door pizza shop, but the staff did not know it either until a customer pointed it out to me. It is on the VF del sud route.
I received a nice welcome and a drink from Stefan, who speaks English. His wife offered to do my washing. Stefan helped me with the next day’s accommodation. There was bottled water and tea-making facilities in the room.
Stefan brought me breakfast in my room at 7.30 am next day so I could start walking early. The breakfast included juice, yoghurt, bread and spreads, croissants, fruit.
He met me by chance later on the road on his way to another holiday resort he owned (he was watching out for me) and drove me through a complicated set of road junctions. I was quite touched by this and said “ it is a small thing for you, but a big thing for me.”
Stefan and his wife were special people who were quietly helpful and solicitous towards me.
Borgomontanaro, north of Francolise (
http://www.borgomontanaro.it/en/)
My hosts were kindness personified and among my favourite people on the VF del sud. There was no shop open in the small hamlet near their estate and I had only some fruit and nuts to eat, so they asked me to share their lunch and dinner. Both spoke several languages as well as English.
My ‘room’ was basically a separate house, including a kitchen. The de Renzis family has an ancestral tree going back to 1250 and Nicolò showed it to me. They have been prominent in politics the military and papal affairs. Their beautiful home was destroyed in WW 2 after the Allied landings in Italy, but the gardens and its collection of notable trees survived.
The de Renzis followed me on WhatsApp for the remainder of my walk and subsequent travels in Greece and Turkey. This B&B is quite a way off the VF del sud route.
Borgomurgia, Andria (
http://www.borgomurgia.it/?lang=en)
Great welcome from the owners, Roberta and Vincenzo, who both speak fluent English. The B&B is in a good central location right on the VF del sud route and was easy to find. I arrived in Andria about 2pm and Roberta showed me to a good restaurant for lunch. I had a wonderful double room.
Roberta and Vincenzo are in their 30s and gave up careers in Milan and Bologna to start the Borgomurgia B&B. They are aiming to make a difference in this small town in southern Italy to create local jobs and help to keep young people from moving away to the big cities for work. They run other local activities as well.
Vincenzo walked with me after breakfast next day to show me the way out of town and asked me to call him if I needed help during my walk. Later I got a text message from Roberta asking how my stay was, and offering help.
Il Grifone, Bitonto (
https://www.bedandbreakfast.eu/bed-and-breakfast/bitonto/b-b-il-grifone/1130730/)
It is right on the Via Francigena and close to the Cathedral and many eateries. The Cathedral has an old (Roman?) mosaic of a griffin, hence the name.
Angela the vivacious owner was on site to let me in when I arrived. She was very interested in the Via Francigena and my walk and we had a long talk about it. She gave me some fruit and also a tiny bottle of local olive oil, saying it was good for the stomach to drink a little olive oil every day. Angela is a lovely person and made me feel immediately at home.
The B&B has a small kitchen and a spacious practical bathroom with a washing machine.
Bob M
