Hi, forum friends, I just received this little snippet from someone who walked the Invierno in October and who, like everyone else I know, loved it! Since you are probably tired of hearing me, Charrito and Kinky sing its praises, I am pasting it in for a new voice.
A short distance from the albergue in Ponferrada there’s a prominent signpost – right for the Camino Francés, left for the Camino de Invierno. The latter was traditionally a route for pilgrims when the heights of O Cebreiro were impassable due to snow. The seething masses went right, I went left and was the only pilgrim for nine days before the route joined the Via de la Plata outside Lalín, two days from Santiago. My reward was a delightfully diverse camino, from the remains of Roman gold mines at Las Médulas, along the Sil valley with a different view at evey turn, steeply down and then up to cross the Miño at Belesar, then over the highlands of Alto de Faro. A different Galicia, lots of grape vines on terraced hillsides, even olives, but the same timeless hamlets and tiny churches. Curious local folks. Few farm animals, so the pilgrim is spared both the pungent pong of drying dung and the need to watch his step. I enjoyed the dedicated hospitality of Asún in A Rúa, who has converted two rooms in her house for pilgrims, and of Manolo at Bar Mar in Sobradelo. As the only pilgrim I felt very special, very privileged. I felt special in a different way at the vast albergue in Quiroga where I became an Object of Curiosity to a large tour group, so that I felt like a zoo animal. Unfortunately, I wasn’t petted.
This is a camino of outstanding charm and historical and religious interest (e.g. the churches at Montefurado and Diomendi ), abundantly waymarked with a variety of signs thanks to the local associations and the recent efforts of the Xunta. Its authenticity was a matter of dispute but since it was certified in 2016 it can be expected to grow in popularity. It needs more albergues but plans are afoot in several places. Meanwhile, inexpensive accommodations are readily available in pensiones , casa rurales and bars. I never paid more than €20 for a bed thanks to special pilgrim rates and being out-of-season. It’s not an easy option, physically, but has plenty of corredoiras and farm tracks and relatively little asphalt, none of it with much traffic.
He also said the forum guide was great! AND sent me a bunch of updates. My 2018 Invierno guide folder is getting thicker.
Buen camino, Laurie
A short distance from the albergue in Ponferrada there’s a prominent signpost – right for the Camino Francés, left for the Camino de Invierno. The latter was traditionally a route for pilgrims when the heights of O Cebreiro were impassable due to snow. The seething masses went right, I went left and was the only pilgrim for nine days before the route joined the Via de la Plata outside Lalín, two days from Santiago. My reward was a delightfully diverse camino, from the remains of Roman gold mines at Las Médulas, along the Sil valley with a different view at evey turn, steeply down and then up to cross the Miño at Belesar, then over the highlands of Alto de Faro. A different Galicia, lots of grape vines on terraced hillsides, even olives, but the same timeless hamlets and tiny churches. Curious local folks. Few farm animals, so the pilgrim is spared both the pungent pong of drying dung and the need to watch his step. I enjoyed the dedicated hospitality of Asún in A Rúa, who has converted two rooms in her house for pilgrims, and of Manolo at Bar Mar in Sobradelo. As the only pilgrim I felt very special, very privileged. I felt special in a different way at the vast albergue in Quiroga where I became an Object of Curiosity to a large tour group, so that I felt like a zoo animal. Unfortunately, I wasn’t petted.
This is a camino of outstanding charm and historical and religious interest (e.g. the churches at Montefurado and Diomendi ), abundantly waymarked with a variety of signs thanks to the local associations and the recent efforts of the Xunta. Its authenticity was a matter of dispute but since it was certified in 2016 it can be expected to grow in popularity. It needs more albergues but plans are afoot in several places. Meanwhile, inexpensive accommodations are readily available in pensiones , casa rurales and bars. I never paid more than €20 for a bed thanks to special pilgrim rates and being out-of-season. It’s not an easy option, physically, but has plenty of corredoiras and farm tracks and relatively little asphalt, none of it with much traffic.
He also said the forum guide was great! AND sent me a bunch of updates. My 2018 Invierno guide folder is getting thicker.
Buen camino, Laurie
