LIVE from the Camino Sunny Lisbon

[Holmes4130]

Super sunny day to start my caminho! Starting from the beginning… Both of them.

 

[naplesdon]

Sunny yes, quite frigid and brisk as well! Bom Caminho

 

[JimG59]

Super sunny day to start my caminho! Starting from the beginning… Both of them.

Great, I hope to read your experiences, distances walked, accommodation, signage, food etc as you progress along the “way”.

I head out from Lisbon on the 6 April.

 

[Holmes4130]

End of a great 1st day! Even put my shorts on! Super sunny with a breeze that is ‘fresh!´

Perfect walking weather & popped my puffy on when stopped. Although I’ve learned that it’s not good to stop ha ha!

Made it to Cascais for 2pm after leaving Lisbon at 8am… I need to slow down! Tomorrow the mountains are calling & I must go.

 

[jungleboy]

The stage that I assume you’re doing tomorrow is one I have walked twice before as a day-hike … but both times downhill, starting in Sintra. It’s a great walk, enjoy! I am also thinking about doing this route in a few months so it’s good to follow you here. Bom caminho!

 

[Holmes4130]

Day 2 A beautiful morning & the sunrise is so bright my phone can’t handle the brightness… And then I was presented with this Have a great day everyone !

 

[peregrina2000]

So good to have a live thread from Lisbon that is taking the road less traveled — @Holmes4130, keep us posted. Are you going to Fátima as this peregrino did?

Bom caminho!

(Just a heads up for others, this route is not the Central Route from Lisbon, which goes north along the Tejo/Tajo for a while, nor is it the Trilho das Areias, which sticks to the Atlantic Coast from Lisbon). I think that @Holmes4130 is walking the Caminho do Mar.

I’m hoping others will correct me if I’ve got it wrong, but in any event, @Holmes4130, wishing you a very bom caminho!

 

[Holmes4130]

Thank you for your support I’m kind of making it up as I go. I wanted a longer walk but the traditional central route didn’t appeal. Getting my stamp in Cascais was very rewarding and today I have hugged the coast and entered into the sintra mountains from the rear. The palace is 5 km away and I can see it & The sea also and now I sleep zzzzzz

 

[Holmes4130]

Some pictures from yesterday’s walk which was day 2 Cascais to Sanctuary of Peninha in the Sintra Mountains. Yesterday was a little spiritual for me with the cross on the beach just as I was starting & as the day went on & I struggled there were places for me to rest & when I was too hot a cool breeze would blow. The climb up to the church is a good one! Vertical ! I wanted to quit but I couldn’t but I said if I get a km away & there’s a spot for the night I’ll take it! Anyway… exactly 1km from the church there’s a gate with 2 paths. I investigated the path that I knew was the wrong one but 30 mètres hidden & protected was a perfect pitch for the night

 

[Holmes4130]

Beautiful morning! I’ve hiked up to the chapel & there’s shelter where I’m brewing coffee & having more breakfast it’s 10km through the mountains to the sintra palace so an easier day today! My long term plan for now Is to return back to the coast & travel north then cut inland to Fatima & Toma, then up to Coimbra. Have a great day wherever you are

 

[peregrina2000]

Wonderful pictures, ah the views! I think this route takes you by the Convento dos Capuchos, one of my favorite places in Sintra.

Your jetboil brings back memories of the two French pilgrims I met on the Camino de Levante. Every morning at 10 am, no matter where they were or what the terrain was like, they pulled out their jet boil to make a coffee. They had some trouble finding fuel, but that was ten years ago, so hopefully things will be easy for you.

 

[Holmes4130]

Wonderful pictures, ah the views! I think this route takes you by the Convento dos Capuchos, one of my favorite places in Sintra.

Your jetboil brings back memories of the two French pilgrims I met on the Camino de Levante. Every morning at 10 am, no matter where they were or what the terrain was like, they pulled out their jet boil to make a coffee. They had some trouble finding fuel, but that was ten years ago, so hopefully things will be easy for you.

Hi! Thanks for the recommendation. I must have passed just below it but I’m heading back that way through colares so I’ll check it out & I think jet boils are a lot more efficient these days but I do have a spare gas canister. Another thing to carry

 

[Holmes4130]

So Sunday, day 3, was meant to be a rest day with just a 10km hike to Sintra. Only that didn’t go as planned & was more like 14km but the way it happened was I’m a km away then all of a sudden ! It’s 4!



Today I discovered that there is indeed quicker routes throughout the park that google maps highlight yet those routes are gated & closed. I’ve included a picture below as today ‘monday’ I’ve left Sintra & backtracked to the Convent of the Capuchos. Google said this was just over an hours journey! But… the longer route is the only option.



On Sunday it was 1.30pm when I reached the Peña palace & it was busy! I opted to go down to the town first & get some supplies.



As lovely as Sintra is, it’s a tourist trap & I guess that’s why I was so keen to get Lisbon & Cascais done so quickly as very populated. In addition there’s no grocery store ! But!!! There’s a petite pastel de nata store just off the square & wow! The best yet & still hot! They sold sandwiches also so I grabbed a tomato & mozzarella & found sanctuary in a quiet courtyard at the rear of the church hidden away from the Sunday bustle.



There’s water flowing freely so one less problem & I hiked back up to the entrance & made camp for the night in the woodland grounds.



Waking up Monday to another beautiful day although no sun as I’m on the wrong side of the mountain. Hot chocolate for breakfast & after packing up I hiked up to the main entrance of Peña palace. It was only 8am & they don’t open till 9.30 but that was ok,I enjoyed the peacefulness & the bathrooms were open. I was still undecided whether or not I was actually going in… but I paid the 14€ & wow!!! Amazing experience & I got coffee, cake & 2 sandwiches for later for 12€ which saved me having to walk back down to the town or make do with my emergency porridge rations.



It sure does take some walking to get around that palace grounds!



After, I headed back into the national park towards the convent with the plan on finding somewhere to make camp before reaching my destination to allow an early day & my morning will have a plan. The park from Sintra out to the coast is astounding ! I’ve found a perfect little spot to pitch my home from where I write this!

 

[Holmes4130]

Day 5 and after waking up next to a lake 1 km from the Convent of the Capuchos, it was a gentle stroll to arrive at 10am to check it out. I wasn’t disappointed, I happily paid the 7€ & took to wondering the delights of the maze of a place which it is! You need to see to understand it. Off the beaten track & very quiet, another delight to the national park!

I’ve now left the lush greenery of the mountains & arrived back at the coast, the contrast! And I’m still in the view of the Pena palace!

With a fresh produce shop in the village for healthy tea & I’ve bagged a good spot to pitch my camp this evening I’m resting my aching legs!!!

From here it’s straight up the coast towards Leiria & im thinking across from there to Fatima, Tomar & up to Coimbra.

No rush & ive plenty of time.

 

[Holmes4130]

Day 7 & checking in! Not much to report as the journey over the last 2 days has not been that historically interesting more rather just continuous magnificent scenery & solitude.

I’ve covered about 30 km to Ericeira, the route being coastal isn’t without it’s challenges with some challenging terrain but equally very rewarding. I’m in sandals since yesterday & they’re holding up well. It’s been so lovely just to walk & no that you don’t have to turn back! Tomorrow morning will be in Ericeira for supplies & a wash! Weather is getting warmer most noticeable at night.

 

[Holmes4130]

So the end of day 8 & 1 week on the caminho. About 13km today and Ericeira was a very hipster place & a bit of a surfing Mecca. Very busy with all nationalities & lots of shops! I opted for the Spar which was a little underwhelming for a Spar but they do €1 cheese so fresh cob cheese sandwiches it’s been today so I’m happy. And the lovely lady in the tourist office was very happy to unbox the new stamp!

The paths leaving Ericeira are nicely made along the cliff tops but the further you go the less kept they become & I had to do some backtracking as a housing estate had restricted the access. Further on from there & where I am now the cliff tops are very agricultural, still with a designated pathway which I’m following. The journey to which I’ll add requires walking 2 km along the N247 which is very busy, fast & no sidewalks. Probably the most at risk I’ve felt since starting.

 

[Holmes4130]

Yesterday I took a day off! A whole day of not doing much other than eating & sleeping R&R if you like.



And after walking the 10km into Santa Cruz i find my self camped up at Santa de Porto Novo for the night. There’s a rock here that goes out into the sea and has a statue of a Madonna on it! Feels very special & pretty much like the perfect flat spot of ground that was afore me I thought that’s home for the night!



The real gem today has been Santa Cruz! It all began as I descended from the cliffs I’d been trailing since camp that winded through a lovely little town and a good stretch of gravel road. There’s a petite cafe that was busy with cyclists so I stopped for a coffee (ridiculously cheap) before meandering the sand dunes into Santa Cruz. My destination was the mini preco supermarket & I gave thought to how my caminho is being navigated by one grocery store to the next!



As you enter Santa Cruz there’s an ancient chapel built into the rock that is still functioning today! Well cared for with flowers & candles. A small town, very surf oriented as much of this coast seems to be, but had a nice feel to it and some history also which boards sited around tells you. I could have spent a day there easily! Lunch was bag salad with a side of fresh bbq ribs & a bottle of coke! Great!



The path from Santa Cruz just follows the cliff tops to where I am now.



Today has been the first day I’ve missed my camera. I’ve seen so many things, people (interesting) mostly that got me to thinking about doing a caminho by portrait’s? A collection of pictures documenting the people that live & work along ‘the way’??? Maybe next time? I sold my camera to fund this expedition & I just didn’t want the hassle, after all this journey wasn’t about taking pictures. I’m not really sure what it’s about and maybe I’ll know more by the end? However I’ve already a list of what I need & dont need on this trip…



Oh & earlier I passed a lady walking with a donkey! She had a backpack on and we gave each other a wave from across the busy road as a kind of ‘we’re both on a journey’ wave? I kept looking back as did she a few times & I do wonder if that was one of those moments?



To be continued…

 

[Holmes4130]

…

 

[NathansMom29]

Beautiful morning! I’ve hiked up to the chapel & there’s shelter where I’m brewing coffee & having more breakfast it’s 10km through the mountains to the sintra palace so an easier day today! My long term plan for now Is to return back to the coast & travel north then cut inland to Fatima & Toma, then up to Coimbra. Have a great day wherever you are

So beautiful! Bom Camino.

 

[Holmes4130]

Wow!!! It’s been a hot minute since I last posted & I must update on my travel route! But… After spending a couple of days in Peniche & deciding to continue up the coast, fate would have other ideas & I’m just about to walk the last few km in to Fatima! The road from Obidos is a tough but rewarding one.

Can anyone recommend an albergue in Fatima & In Tomar? as I’m there next.

Many thanks & I’ll fill in the blanks & also my thoughts on being coastal & inland shortly.

Bom caminho x

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, @Holmes4130, glad to hear you are still walking and still loving it! Thanks for letting us know you’re still going strong.

In Tomar, pilgrims looking for an albergue-type place go to Hostel 2300. Not a pilgrim albergue, but rather a youth hostel. The owner is apparently very helpful to pilgrims. And the castle is oh so worth a visit for an afternoon. Templar history oozes.

I have never stayed in Fátima, but see that there are several tourist/youth hostels there as well. The Fátima Lounge Guest House and Pereira Hostel are both on booking. I remembered that there used to be several albergues run by religious organizations, and I found the threads on the forum with a search, but the links to the websites of both places are broken. Maybe someone has information on Casa do Verbo Divino, described on this thread, or Casa Sao Bento de Labre, described on this thread.

The walk from Fátima to Tomar has been marked, but I think it may have fallen into a state of neglect. But you’re quite the bushwhacker pilgrim, so I’m sure you’ll be fine. Some info here.

Bom caminho, looking forward to more posts when you have time and/or inclination!

 

[Holmes4130]

Wow! Thank you so much! I’m in Fatima now and I didn’t expect to feel so emotional. The journey from Obidos has been a strange one with up’s & down! Literally ha ha ! I’m going to continue on to Tomar then take a couple of days rest. Thanks for the info.

 

[Holmes4130]

@peregrina2000 thanks for the links! I’ve just read to connecting route to Tomar & the challenge has been accepted- how exciting!

 

[Holmes4130]

1st one…

 

[Holmes4130]

Just arrived in super sunny Tomar… I set out at 8am this morning with 24km to do & arrived at 13:45 - Got my stamp already & looking forward to a rest!

I’ll update with details later.

 

[peregrina2000]

Great news, @Holmes4130. I don't think there have many forum members who have walked from Fatima to Tomar, so any info you want to provide would be very much appreciated.

Given your arrival time, I'm guessing that you didn't have too many problems en route! Enjoy Tomar!

 

[Gavala]

Mork calling Orson. Or Gavala calling Holmes.

How has it been the last week?

 

[Holmes4130]

Hi all! I’m so sorry I’m rubbish at keeping updated! I have all the details from where I need to document from.

But… for now… since having the most amazing 36 hours in Tomar & wow! Just how good is the 2300 hostel! They’re where amazing!

I was amazed to meet other pilgrims! And from Tomar I followed the yellow arrows to Coimbra! It was lovely to leave my phone alone & follow the signs & meeting fellow pilgrims along the way including going the opposite way to Fatima! There was a guy from Japan, a couple of ladies from Québec & a great guy from Russia! Along with others including locals. I really felt part of something special & that was nice. But… I felt something calling & whilst following ‘the way’ was great, I needed to make my own ‘way’. With that, once in coimbra I made the choice to follow the Mondego River to the coast & I’m currently resting in a luxury **** hotel at a bargain price thanks to Booking.com

I departed coimbra Wednesday midday after a morning exploring & arrived in Figueria da Foz yesterday after. 50km and wow it’s so flat which was a joy & I enjoyed the solitude.

From here it’s North upto Porto & today marks my 4th week of walking.

 

[Gavala]

You must have at least have had a brush with photography in your past and if not a very good eye for it. Most of those are better than record shots, spending more time letting ones eyes fall on them. A welcome change.

I do like your thread and attitude. In part you remind me of how I once travelled when much younger and you have also given confidence that it may well happen again later after this Spring Camino.

Nice work. Nice insight.

 

[peregrina2000]

I departed coimbra Wednesday midday after a morning exploring & arrived in Figueria da Foz

Hi, @Holmes4130, so good to hear from you. I have been in Figureira da Foz twice, but never walking. Once was in 1971, when not one of those high rise apartment buildings was in existence, it was more of a sleepy fishing village than Nazaré was then, if you can believe it. I was back in 2018 and couldn’t believe how they had pushed the high-rise development. But with all those buildings to your back, looking out at the crashing waves and wide expanse of sand is still the same as it was years ago! Ah, the memories.

So, are you planning to hug the coast all the way to Porto? Through Aveiro and beyond? Are you just finding your way as you go, or are there others who have left tracks or guidance? I hope you keep posting pictures!

Sorry to keep bombarding you with questions, but I can’t think of another forum member who has stuck to the coast the whole way up after Sintra. Bom caminho!

 

[Holmes4130]

Hi everyone from super sunny Porto!

It feels like an eternity from when I posted a week ago & I can’t believe I’m in Porto already! Well, Gaia, 4.2km from the Porto cathedral! But after my week I’m saying I’m here ha ha!

I was caught off guard a little, like when I walked into Coimbra as the ‘urban’ built up areas started 12km south of the city but I got lucky with a picnic park that I found to spend the night. Porto effectively starts 38km before being central! Last night I camped on the beach close to Ovar. I woke up with ice on the tent & in no particular hurry & it was a pleasant walk to ‘Espinho’ where the big supermarkets seem to be ensuring toilets & hot, fresh food. From then on it was as if everything had changed? All of a sudden there were many more people about & whilst the boardwalks allllllllllllll the way! Is nothing short of impressive, when it got to 4pm & getting closer there appeared to be zero stealthy camping opportunities. Perhaps it’s a Friday afternoon thing? The golf courses I passed (2) were busy, hopeful of a bush to hide behind for the night, as well as the number of people acting oddly? I opened ‘Booking.com’ & there really wasn’t much & nothing under 100€ for the night! So I carried on walking & walking & got to where I am now! How my phone lasted on 1% long enough to get me booked & here I don’t know!

Now all this said! Its 3.30am as I write & I never sleep well the first night in a hotel since I’ve began this journey! But going back to last week, the journey from FDF up to Ovar has been the most isolated journey of my journey so far! Maybe that could account for my scattyness as suddenly ‘people’ are stealing all my energy. I need to write a more in-depth account but from FDF to Mira is pretty much just ‘desert’ & you need to be equipped with supplies accordingly, the beach is just super soft sand, the tracks following the beach resembling road tracks on google earth are just soft sand so it’s the ‘Florestal 1’ & wow what a road that is! It’s just straight 30km & closed in the middle as it’s collapsed! Forcing me to brave the river crossing! Well more like a stream but river sounds far more dramatic as I write & it’s a good 2 days to reach Mira which is like an oasis of green & shops & toilets!

I’m going to struggle to picture all of these events in 10 pictures attached! But for now I’m planning to be up & out of Porto asap. Adventure awaits! And following the yellow arrows from here on!

 

[Holmes4130]

A few more…

 

[Holmes4130]

Hi everyone, just a quick update from a not so sunny Spain ha ha!!!

Yesterday I walked from A Guarda to Baiona! It was wet but thankfully the wind was behind me & those 2 mountain passes at the very end are a bonus! It was a great walk.

Today I’m making my way to Vigo (15km to go). The weather is worse! Torrential rain & winds! There’s no putting it off for a day as the forecast is set for the week & I can only go forward. Thinking how grateful I am for my previous 5 weeks of sunshine.

​

 

[Holmes4130]

And just like that… super sunny Vigo