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Suggestions Please: Baamonde -> Sobrado dos Monxes -> Arzua

Michael Mattalo

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Good morning. I've been looking at routing options and accommodation using Gronze between these three stops along Norte. I can't seem to match a route and accommodation for the dates I plan to be there (June 14-17 roughly) either via Monxes or via As Cruzes. I am now considering skipping Sobrado and walking more south to Arzua stopping the night at "Rural bi Terra de Miraz" - see image below. This splits an 11 hour walk into 4 and 7. Any thoughts or suggestions, please would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

baamonde_arzua.JPG
 
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There are a couple of options. As you probably know, there are two alternatives marked from Baamonde to Sobrado. The newer option is the north one, through Parga.

Some discussions here, with some staging suggestions. I think Sobrado is a wonderful place to visit, the albergue in the monastery is pretty awesome and the facade of the church has been cleaned within the last few years and just sparkles. The last time I walked through, I was joining from the Camiño Verde, so I continued on to a terrific stop, Abeiro da Loba. The dinner wasn’t terrific, but absolutely everything else was gorgeous and oh so peaceful.

I’m not sure what your stages are before Baamonde, but if you can continue walking to Parga (5 or 6 beyond Baamonde), that sets you up for some manageable days, I think.
 
Don't miss the monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes. March 2007 I detoured from Arzua to the then basic pilgrim albergue within the Cistercian/Trappist monastery; there also was a separate hospederia for visitors.

This monastery complex is a Baroque masterpiece. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'. The evening service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were either painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick, sputtering candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison. It was a true privilege to share such a timeless ambiance....Don't miss it!

 
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From Sobrado dos Monxes I took the (newish?) alternative just after Baamonde, and spent the night at Twin Pines B&B in Orxal. This route takes you to the Francés just before Lavacolla.

Screenshot 2023-04-19 094247.png

Since there were no places (that I knew of) to stop for breakfast or lunch along this route I cut down to the Francés at A Brea on a road shortly after leaving Twin Pines.
 
A few years ago, when I was trying to figure out this stage, the owners WhatsApped me to say that they had renovated the house and were going to rent it out as a whole house rental only. I don’t have any further information but will try to get in touch.

At that time they recommended trying Lar de Mota, located somewhere between Boimorto and Lavacolla, but I never followed up.
 
A few years ago, when I was trying to figure out this stage, the owners WhatsApped me to say that they had renovated the house and were going to rent it out as a whole house rental only. I don’t have any further information but will try to get in touch.
It looks like they have reverted back to renting individual rooms. Here's the room types on their booking.com page.

Screenshot 2023-04-19 103911.png
 
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I can't seem to match a route and accommodation for the dates I plan to be there (June 14-17 roughly) either via Monxes or via As Cruzes. I am now considering skipping Sobrado and walking more south to Arzua stopping the night at "Rural bi Terra de Miraz" - see image below. This splits an 11 hour walk into 4 and 7. Any thoughts or suggestions, please would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Michael, I guess much depends on how far you are willing to walk each day and your accommodation preferences and whether you have to have everything booked in advance, which might be inferred from your query?
Sobrado dos Monxes has almost a hundred beds, which aren't bookable. And as others have said it's an incredible place to stay inside. When I was there a few years back there was no restriction on pilgrims wandering around the various cloisters, halls and chapels. And as Margaret says, the candlelit mass is very special. There's also other accommodation available close to the monastery, so if ever you were going to trust in the camino to provide, without prior booking :eek:, I'd say this is a good day to try that.
Perhaps a bit less certain, but still with favourabe odds, would be to rock up at Miraz. Presumably you tried the Abrigo place and all 36 beds are booked. There's still the CSJ albergue, with a further 26 beds allocated on a first-come basis. The CSJ volunteers have a range of strategies for helping pilgrims who arrive when they are full, involving phoning around other local contacts/places and arranging taxis etc - should it ever come to that.
 
My stay at Sobrado dos Monxes is one of my favorites of my 6 Camino's. Make your choice and be at peace with it. Your Camino will be wonderful.
 
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Good morning. I've been looking at routing options and accommodation using Gronze between these three stops along Norte. I can't seem to match a route and accommodation for the dates I plan to be there (June 14-17 roughly) either via Monxes or via As Cruzes. I am now considering skipping Sobrado and walking more south to Arzua stopping the night at "Rural bi Terra de Miraz" - see image below. This splits an 11 hour walk into 4 and 7. Any thoughts or suggestions, please would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

View attachment 145164
Hi i walked the Norte last June, Sobrado was a highlight of my entire camino, Lawrence, the Abbott, is a fellow English guy, & is one of the funniest, most interesting people I've met, it is a quiet sanctuary before hitting the madness of the CF,
 
I would not miss Sobrado either. It is something to experience. The day before in Baamonde i finally saw a good number of pilgrims. After the split for the Primitivo I think the most pilgrims I was in an albergue with was 5. (Fun fact the municipal in Baamonde was without a doubt the coldest albergue I ever stayed in. I was in a small room with a German pilgrim and we could see our breath as we spoke. It was warmer in the garden then it was in the room). Got to Sobrado and loved it. There were probably 50 pilgrims sleeping there and I know there was at least 1 private albergue open also. The crowds started there because somewhere between these two towns is the 100K mark for Santiago. The monastery is very interesting. I walked a very short day from A Cabana as it is 40k from Baamonde. Got to the monastery very early in the morning so it gave me lots of time to visit and relax there.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Last year our family of 4 walked from Vilalba, via Baamonde, to overnight in Parga. Baamonde was a great place to stop to eat and stock up on supplies from the supermarket, and the walk on to Parga was quite easy. We booked Parga Natura and it was the prettiest albergue of our journey. The dinner was filling and nutritious, and you are sent off the next morning with a small packed lunch. The following day we walked to Sobrado and again, the monastery albergue there was an incredible experience. It was a big 2 days with kids, 50kms combined and we were walking in summer heat. I thought after leaving the coast that the best walking and accommodation would be behind us, but it wasn't the case at all.

 
I will be walking these same stages you are enquiring about on the Norte in May and I used Booking.com to make my arrangements.
I will be staying in...
*Baamonde- at KM101
*Miraz- Hotel Bi terra zona
*Sobrado- Via Sacra,
(I will be visiting the monastery, but not staying overnight)
*Arzua- Casa Abeleira
 
Good morning. I've been looking at routing options and accommodation using Gronze between these three stops along Norte. I can't seem to match a route and accommodation for the dates I plan to be there (June 14-17 roughly) either via Monxes or via As Cruzes. I am now considering skipping Sobrado and walking more south to Arzua stopping the night at "Rural bi Terra de Miraz" - see image below. This splits an 11 hour walk into 4 and 7. Any thoughts or suggestions, please would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

View attachment 145164
Be aware of the split I the Camino. There are 3 ways. I took one that took me all the way to Lavacolla
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I will be walking these same stages you are enquiring about on the Norte in May and I used Booking.com to make my arrangements.
I will be staying in...
*Baamonde- at KM101
*Miraz- Hotel Bi terra zona
*Sobrado- Via Sacra,
(I will be visiting the monastery, but not staying overnight)
*Arzua- Casa Abeleira
Tonight we are staying at Bi Terra Zona after creating an alternate route for ourselves. We did not follow the main Camino route; it worked out well as it was a bit shorter.
 

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