Stage 18 a or 18 b (Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino)

[joyvj]

Let me know your thoughts. Is either better ?
Advantages and disadvantages

[Title edited by moderator to clarify question]

 

[J Willhaus]

From where to where ?

 

[Bradypus]

This is an international forum and people use many different guides (or none). There are no fixed stages. And there are many Caminos. Which part of which Camino did you have in mind?

 

[trecile]

Let us know which route you are asking about and we can move this thread to the proper sub forum.

 

[joyvj]

On the Camino Frances

 

[trecile]

On the Camino Frances

Okay. I've moved the thread. Now you need to tell us which guide you are using, and where these stages are.

 

[CWBuff]

From where to where ?

from stage 17 I guess?

Hmmmm
Stage 18. Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino, 24 km/15 mi

and there are 2 alternates on this stretch.... possible thats what OP wants

 

[FourSeasons]

In my guidebook for the Frances (John Brierly) stage 18 does have two options. Just past Sahagun there is a split. (1) To the right to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos takes you down an old roman road with views of fields and is a peaceful walk to a small village. I took this route in 2013. I loved the little village and made fond memories there however the roman road was painful on the feet. Leaving the next morning expect to continue on the roman old.

I can't speak of the other route (2) that veers to the left the Royal French Way, Real Camino France towards Bercianos del Real Camino but the guidebook says it's alongside a little use asphalt road parallel to the autopista.

Is this the stage you are asking about??

 

[Grousedoctor]

As @FourSeasons did, I, too, took the road less traveled to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. The day that I chose this option, the foot traffic on the main route was quite heavy thus the alternative provided a quieter and less hectic path to take. My description is no different than what is posted above, but I would add that this route is quite isolated. The only other pilgrim that I saw was the one I was walking with. Most pleasant, but I’m not as sure that I would have felt as comfortable alone. Very quiet town, but a most pleasant albergue with a good restaurant. The next day, one heads out on an equally empty path until reaching Mansilla. Do take plenty of water as I don’t remember any spots to fuel up. In hindsight, due to the isolation of this segment from rest of the Camino and the lack of other pilgrims, the main route is probably a better choice particularly if you are traveling alone. Buen Camino,

 

[trecile]

I've gone both ways. If you want more services along the way choose the "standard" route. I went via Calzadilla de los Hermanillos because my friend was serving as hospitalera there at the time. I really enjoyed that little municipal albergue.

 

[NorthernLight]

My last time walking that stretch, I followed the path to the left as far as El Burgo Ranero, then the next morning followed a road north, over the railroad tracks, and then turned left onto the old Roman Rd route. I don’t recall actually walking on an old Roman Rd in this version, although the path followed alongside the old Roman Rd in places. I think I saw half a dozen other pilgrims.

 

[Pafayac]

Same discussion here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/variant-of-calzadilla-de-los-hermanillos.79607/

Choose Calzadilla if you want to avoid crowd: Via Trajana is far from the road and the cars, but it is straight, with no many water points. Calzadilla is a small, quiet, village compared to Bercianos, I think...

 

[joyvj]

Yes this is the one

Okay. I've moved the thread. Now you need to tell us which guide you are using, and where these stages are.

 

[joyvj]

Ok the guide is by sandy brown

 

[Kathor1]

Ok the guide is by sandy brown

Ok, so to take some of the guesswork out of it all: It is a Cicerone guidebook, available on Amazon where a few pages can be previewed, and these are stages 18A and 18B:



And what does this guidebook have to say about the advantages and disadvantages?

 

[joyvj]

I have the book amd jave read the guide im just curios to peoples thoughts. Accommodation is currently scarce so i have changed my planned route to find accommodation and will taking 18b.
So this is to hear other
voewpoints

 

[Tincatinker]

In my view you have made the correct decision though not necessarily for the same reasons that I would. The route splits a little after Sahagun. The route via Calzadilla is pleasantly rural and Calzadilla itself is a delight.
Your comment regarding accommodation suggests to me that you are relying on Booking.con or similar. You would do better to use a Camino related resource such as https://www.gronze.com/camino-frances

 

[J Willhaus]

The municipal albergue in Caldazilla de los Herminillos has been newly renovated.

 

[FourSeasons]

I have the book amd jave read the guide im just curios to peoples thoughts. Accommodation is currently scarce so i have changed my planned route to find accommodation and will taking 18b.
So this is to hear other
voewpoints

Yes, route B as I posted earlier and copied again here.
In my guidebook for the Frances (John Brierly) stage 18 does have two options. Just past Sahagun there is a split. (B) To the right to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos takes you down an old roman road with views of fields and is a peaceful walk to a small village. I took this route in 2013. I loved the little village and made fond memories there however the roman road was painful on the feet. Leaving the next morning expect to continue on the roman old.

I can't speak of the other route (A) that veers to the left the Royal French Way, Real Camino France towards Bercianos del Real Camino but the guidebook says it's alongside a little use asphalt road parallel to the autopista.

PS: I believe you will be happy with your decision Buen Camino

 

[Walkerooni]

I walked the Bercianos route in June 2018, but from further back than Teradillos. Ledigos maybe? I saw 2 cars and 3 bikes and 0 walkers the entire stretch after the decision point.

 

[thejoker]

My opinion on this section is that the 18A route is marginally preferable if there is a case of existing foot or ankle pain or severe blisters. The Calzadilla path (18B) is very stony and uneven but has the interesting Roman feature towards the latter part and certainly gives a 'wilder' feeling It goes through a lovely village and a great albergue with private rooms and excellent food (Via Trajana)

However, the senda (18A) is far easier to walk on and now that the once tiny, sick-looking trees have grown (very surprisingly, I must say), there is some shade too. It goes through the interesting village of El Burgo Ranero with it's lovely rest area next to Domenico Laffi and is also quiet for the most part.

So, I'd say it depends on how you're feeling and how your feet are doing once you get to the split just before Calzada del Coto.

 

[chinacat]

Isn’t it lovely how a rather indistinct question has received so many helpful responses and no small effort on the part of forum members

I imagine the pilgrim with the original post must be rather grateful ….

 

[joyvj]

Indeed I am

 

[joyvj]

In my view you have made the correct decision though not necessarily for the same reasons that I would. The route splits a little after Sahagun. The route via Calzadilla is pleasantly rural and Calzadilla itself is a delight.
Your comment regarding accommodation suggests to me that you are relying on Booking.con or similar. You would do better to use a Camino related resource such as https://www.gronze.com/camino-frances

Vary helpful re Gronce ,however an occassional private bathroom for us is a treat

 

[jimsheppard]

Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos, pleasant route and lovely casa rural in the village

 

[joyvj]

Thank you for all the replies very helpful

 

[JabbaPapa]

There's a great Albergue in Calzada del Coto that most pilgrims seem to be ignorant about -- though local shopping and supplies are somewhat patchy at that place.

El Burgo Ranero is great though -- and even when local shops are closed for the day, the nearby truck stop / petrol station is open 24/7/365 ; and their cooked food is excellent !!

As to which route -- as a third option, you can start out on the more northerly one ; then switch down from Calzadilla de los Hermanillos towards El Burgo Ranero.

I'd say adapt your route to the weather on the day -- if it's rather hot, take the southerly route ; there are not many resting spots in the shade, but some is better than none.

 

[jflorez]

There's a great Albergue in Calzada del Coto that most pilgrims seem to be ignorant about -- though local shopping and supplies are somewhat patchy at that place.

El Burgo Ranero is great though -- and even when local shops are closed for the day, the nearby truck stop / petrol station is open 24/7/365 ; and their cooked food is excellent !!

As to which route -- as a third option, you can start out on the more northerly one ; then switch down from Calzadilla de los Hermanillos towards El Burgo Ranero.

I'd say adapt your route to the weather on the day -- if it's rather hot, take the southerly route ; there are not many resting spots in the shade, but some is better than none.

I stayed the night in El Burgo Ranero in Sept. '21 and while the location I stayed the night at was acceptable, I'd point out that La Costa del Adobe Pensión and Restaurant, on Calle Real, the main street through town, had excellent food, including vegan options. Maria, the proprietor, was very friendly and I would stay there next time based solely on interactions we had with her though the property is quite lovely as well.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I stayed the night in El Burgo Ranero in Sept. '21 and while the location I stayed the night at was acceptable, I'd point out that La Costa del Adobe Pensión and Restaurant, on Calle Real, the main street through town, had excellent food, including vegan options. Maria, the proprietor, was very friendly and I would stay there next time based solely on interactions we had with her though the property is quite lovely as well.

Sure -- but those places are not open every day nor in every season.

When I was there last, early Winter 2022, the shop opposite was open so that I was able to supply myself with provender there.

I advised a French peregrino to try the truck stop place for a proper dinner, and he was content enough to thank me for the advice.

And in the morning, heading out a revés, lovely bacon and eggs.

That place can be a true lifesaver, especially on days when the shop is closed -- and the owners of the little shop opposite are planning at some point to shut it down permanently and retire.

 

[jflorez]

Sure -- but those places are not open every day nor in every season.

When I was there last, early Winter 2022, the shop opposite was open so that I was able to supply myself with provender there.

I advised a French peregrino to try the truck stop place for a proper dinner, and he was content enough to thank me for the advice.

And in the morning, heading out a revés, lovely bacon and eggs.

That place can be a true lifesaver, especially on days when the shop is closed -- and the owners of the little shop opposite are planning at some point to shut it down permanently and retire.

My post wasn't to suggest that they are open every day or every season. Mine was simply an added recommendation to anyone staying or passing through El Burgo Ranero who may be looking for a nice place for a meal. In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have replied to your post so as not to make you think I was trying to counter your advice, and simply added the comment to the original thread. In fact, my intention was to support what I inferred was your positive mention of El Burgo Ranero, to which I was in agreement. I imagine the truck stop place is a fine place to eat.

 

[JabbaPapa]

My post wasn't to suggest that they are open every day or every season. Mine was simply an added recommendation to anyone staying or passing through El Burgo Ranero who may be looking for a nice place for a meal. In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have replied to your post so as not to make you think I was trying to counter your advice, and simply added the comment to the original thread. In fact, my intention was to support what I inferred was your positive mention of El Burgo Ranero, to which I was in agreement. I imagine the truck stop place is a fine place to eat.

Oh your informative post was great !!

I only wanted to give some context about local limitations on certain days in that place, and options to remedy them.

 

[Katherine Radeka]

Echo most of what's been said about the remoteness and beauty of the alternate route through Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos except that we diverted over to Religios on the 2nd day to make it shorter.

 

[Pathfinder075]

I've walked the left fork to El Burgo Ranero and will probably use that route this year. The downside as some mention is it's long, straight and shade is few and far between, so carry a lot of water. It seems to be the route favored by the cyclists, probably due to it being next to a tarmac road.

When I did it, I was told the other one was a nightmare on the feet and my feet were in a bad way, so I opted for a flat tarmac path. My parents cycled the other route and said the Roman ruins were disappointing in comparison to some of the others in the surrounding area.

 

[howardd5]

In my guidebook for the Frances (John Brierly) stage 18 does have two options. Just past Sahagun there is a split. (1) To the right to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos takes you down an old roman road with views of fields and is a peaceful walk to a small village. I took this route in 2013. I loved the little village and made fond memories there however the roman road was painful on the feet. Leaving the next morning expect to continue on the roman old.

I can't speak of the other route (2) that veers to the left the Royal French Way, Real Camino France towards Bercianos del Real Camino but the guidebook says it's alongside a little use asphalt road parallel to the autopista.

Is this the stage you are asking about??

The Roman road to the right is a long& lonely , but I think it’s the best option . The left route follows the road

 

[dick bird]

El Burgo Ranero is great though -- and even when local shops

Shop. But an excellent one nonetheless. The bad news is that the proprietors were retiring and looking to sell the business. If anyone has passed through El Burgo recently, was the shop up the road from the albergue still operating?

BTW El Burgo Ranero is 7 kms on from Bercianos so the donativo albergue Domenico Laffi is a viable alternative.