So, St Peter’s Way.
I found myself in Essex for a few days under orders from Mrs Henrythedog to make myself scarce whilst she paid some social calls.
Thanks to all the above for advice. I’ll offer a few thoughts of my own.
The way marking on this 70km route is a bit hit and miss; plentiful when not really needed but absent when it would have been appreciated. I just used the OS maps and a vague sense of where East is, and all was well. The ‘leaflet’ route and that on the OS maps do differ, quite frequently. I took three-and-a-bit days and covered just over 85km after necessary diversions.
The many sections of the route which cross open farmland are, in a wet November, very difficult. Essex clay is not your friend. I bypassed some sections via rural roads, which was dangerous. The traffic hereabouts seems far too fast for the road network and there are few roadside paths or pavements.
The route passes some interesting churches and some lovely scenery. In the right conditions it would be pleasant. The tiny 14th century church of St Mary at Mundon was a highlight; as was being unexpectedly identified as a ‘pilgrim’ when I started in Chipping Ongar.
Walking the route as a continuous journey was a challenge as accommodation’s not plentiful, and I had to add a considerable ‘off route’ walk into Chelmsford on the first night and South Woodham Ferrers on the second. The final night at the Star in Steeple was thankfully on-route.
As my first multi-day walk since both knees gave out in Spain earlier this year, it was hard work - but considering the weather and ground conditions, it could have been worse. Full high-spec waterproofs, decent boots and a rucksack rain cover were essential.
To my surprise the beer was drinkable (although best to pay with a contactless card so you don’t know what it costs) and the locals universally friendly; but it was hard to explain why I had left a perfectly serviceable car behind and chosen to walk.
I would never have considered walking in this part of the world were it not by chance. All in all; time well spent.