Some Questions about Kumano Kodo

[ShoshTrvls]

I am looking into doing the Kumano Kodo this coming spring and have a few questions for those who may have done this walk before.

First, I am looking to do this suggested itinerary: https://www.kumano-travel.com/en/model-itineraries/5-days-E1-kumano-kodo-trek-nakahechi I plan to book through Kumano Travel -- anything I should look for in particular? Other than by comfort level, do you get to choose where to stay and, if so, best places to stay, eat, etc.?

Second, this route will qualify as a dual pilgrimage route because one will walk from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~7 km)* plus visit both Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha. However, as the visits to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha come after the visit to Kumano Hongu Taisha, where/how do you get your dual certificate?

*Looks like it doesn't qualify for dual pilgrimage as "Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot" because you bus from Chikatsuyu to Hosshinmon-oji, which otherwise looks like a difficult hike and an additional day. Wondering about deviating from the model itinerary by walking from Takahara to Tsugizakura-Oji instead of Chikatsuyu (a bit further so get part of that extra long day out of the way), then from there to Hosshimon-Oji, and picking up the model itinerary from there. Thoughts on that?



Thanks.

 

[lettinggo]

Hola

I havn't walked it but the site has a thread devoted to it:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/kumano-kodo-and-shikoku-88-japan.195/

Just in case you didn't know.

Good luck with your planing.

Lettinggo

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Hola

I havn't waled it but the site has a thread devoted to it:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/kumano-kodo-and-shikoku-88-japan.195/

Just in case you didn't know.

Good luck with your planing.

Lettinggo

Yes, my post is in this area of the board.

 

[lettinggo]

Okay.
Then my post has added nothing for you at all - sorry about that.
I don't know if you know this site, but Katrina was a member of this forum and she was a lovely person.

followingthearrows

adventures of a dual-pilgrim / henro / thru-hiker / cyclist...

followingthearrows.com

I too have looked into the pilgrimage there and her way of inspiring people has always seemed very special to me.

Lettinggo

 

[MikeyC]

It's been a few years since we did it but the most helpful website which answered most of our questions was that of the Tanabe tourist office.
The link is to the page on how to obtain the dual pilgrim certificate.

Dual Pilgrim｜Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau

Overview A “Dual Pilgrim” is someone who has walked both the Kumano Kodo and the Way of St.James (Camino de Santiago). This program was developed to celebrate, honor, and share the stories of those who have completed both of these UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes and began on Feb 1st...

www.tb-kumano.jp

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Okay.
Then my post has added nothing for you at all - sorry about that.
I don't know if you know this site, but Katrina was a member of this forum and she was a lovely person.

followingthearrows

adventures of a dual-pilgrim / henro / thru-hiker / cyclist...

followingthearrows.com

I too have looked into the pilgrimage there and her way of inspiring people has always seemed very special to me.

Lettinggo

Yes, I read it and it was helpful. She also suggested staying at Tsugizakura-Oji instead of Chikatsuyu, but then walking the whole way to Hongu. I think I want to spend more time in Hongu, and so would stay at Hosshimon-Oji.

 

[Kevin Considine]

This post on Everything You need to know about the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage and Earning a Dual Pilgrim Certificate offers lots of information.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Yes, I read it and it was helpful. She also suggested staying at Tsugizakura-Oji instead of Chikatsuyu, but then walking the whole way to Hongu. I think I want to spend more time in Hongu, and so would stay at Hosshimon-Oji.

OK, just realized you can't really stay near Hosshimon-Oji, but can bus back and forth from Yunomine Onsen, so I'll walk to Hosshimon-Oji, bus to Yunomine Onsen for the night, and then bus back to finish the stage.

 

[NamaMama]

My husband and I are walking the KK in November. We booked our accommodations last November. When using the KK Travel website you can read about each accommodations in the different locations. You submit a request for your chosen accommodation and they respond indicating if it is available. You are asked to request three choices for each.location. We did not do that. There is a FB group which is a great resource. Kumano Kodo Planning. We will take our Camino passports in order to obtain the Dual Pilgrim Certificate.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

My husband and I are walking the KK in November. We booked our accommodations last November. When using the KK Travel website you can read about each accommodations in the different locations. You submit a request for your chosen accommodation and they respond indicating if it is available. You are asked to request three choices for each.location. We did not do that. There is a FB group which is a great resource. Kumano Kodo Planning. We will take our Camino passports in order to obtain the Dual Pilgrim Certificate.

Can I ask you where you've booked to stay? It has been very hard for me to get a feel for the various options.

 

[NamaMama]

We have booked a different accommodation for each night in each location. You are best to check the KK Travel site and read each description. I also read the reviews posted by people. That really gives you a feel for the place. It takes time to do it but time well spent.

 

[Sydney Peregrinos]

I am looking into doing the Kumano Kodo this coming spring and have a few questions for those who may have done this walk before.

First, I am looking to do this suggested itinerary: https://www.kumano-travel.com/en/model-itineraries/5-days-E1-kumano-kodo-trek-nakahechi I plan to book through Kumano Travel -- anything I should look for in particular? Other than by comfort level, do you get to choose where to stay and, if so, best places to stay, eat, etc.?

Second, this route will qualify as a dual pilgrimage route because one will walk from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot (~7 km)* plus visit both Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha. However, as the visits to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha come after the visit to Kumano Hongu Taisha, where/how do you get your dual certificate?

*Looks like it doesn't qualify for dual pilgrimage as "Takijiri-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha on foot" because you bus from Chikatsuyu to Hosshinmon-oji, which otherwise looks like a difficult hike and an additional day. Wondering about deviating from the model itinerary by walking from Takahara to Tsugizakura-Oji instead of Chikatsuyu (a bit further so get part of that extra long day out of the way), then from there to Hosshimon-Oji, and picking up the model itinerary from there. Thoughts on that?



Thanks.

We walked the KK last year and received our dual pilgrim certificates and had the ceremony in Hongu, and then walked on from there. We started in Takakiri-oji, spent a night there and then walked to Chikatsuyu. We took a bus for a few km the next morning then walked to Hosshinmon- oji and onto Hongu. This qualifies you to be a dual pilgrim. We spent 2 nights in Hongu then walked to Kumano Nashi Taisha.
The Kumano Travel website is a great source of information and are very good at replying to emails. You can order a set of the guides to the Kumano Kudo and a credential to use. Postage charges from Japan are included in the package price.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

We walked the KK last year and received our dual pilgrim certificates and had the ceremony in Hongu, and then walked on from there. We started in Takakiri-oji, spent a night there and then walked to Chikatsuyu. We took a bus for a few km the next morning then walked to Hosshinmon- oji and onto Hongu. This qualifies you to be a dual pilgrim. We spent 2 nights in Hongu then walked to Kumano Nashi Taisha.
The Kumano Travel website is a great source of information and are very good at replying to emails. You can order a set of the guides to the Kumano Kudo and a credential to use. Postage charges from Japan are included in the package price.

Thanks -- good to know that you can get the dual pilgrim certificate at Hongu even if you visit Nashi Taisha after! I may then take the bus as well but, then again, now that I've added in that extra day, maybe I'll push through and try to walk the full thing, steep inclines and all.

 

[Corned Beef]

Looks an interesting pilgrimage but a bit confused about the difficulty. The tourist office has a page that shows distances and difficulty ratings but can't work out which are the sections you need to plan for..

Difficulty Rating｜Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau

Introduction There are many walking possibilities with a variety of difficulty, from short leisurely walks to multi-day treks in the Kii-Hanto peninsula, including the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route network. Difficulty ratings are subjective estimates based on a set of criteria. These are meant to...

www.tb-kumano.jp

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Looks an interesting pilgrimage but a bit confused about the difficulty. The tourist office has a page that shows distances and difficulty ratings but can't work out which are the sections you need to plan for..

Difficulty Rating｜Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau

Introduction There are many walking possibilities with a variety of difficulty, from short leisurely walks to multi-day treks in the Kii-Hanto peninsula, including the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route network. Difficulty ratings are subjective estimates based on a set of criteria. These are meant to...

www.tb-kumano.jp

If you start by looking at the Model Itineraries, you can get an idea of what the typical stages are, where there is the ability to skip a section by taking a bus, etc. In planning my trip, I would sometimes go back and forth looking at different model itineraries to adjust for what I believe my capabilities are.

 

[Bradypus]

Looks an interesting pilgrimage but a bit confused about the difficulty.

I have walked several of the Kumano Kodo routes. The terrain is extremely variable and the conditions underfoot also vary enormously - from level gravel paths to steep slopes studded with tree roots and rocks. It would be very difficult to grade any of the sections in a simple and consistent way.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

I have walked several of the Kumano Kodo routes. The terrain is extremely variable and the conditions underfoot also vary enormously - from level gravel paths to steep slopes studded with tree roots and rocks. It would be very difficult to grade any of the sections in a simple and consistent way.

Bradypus, do you think a good pair of trail runners (with hiking poles) are sufficient for the first part of the Nakahechi to Hongu, or should I start looking at and training in hiking boots?

 

[Bradypus]

Bradypus, do you think a good pair of trail runners (with hiking poles) are sufficient for the first part of the Nakahechi to Hongu, or should I start looking at and training in hiking boots?

Either. I walked in boots but other people I met wore runners and appeared to have no difficulties. Personal preference.

 

[ShoshTrvls]

Either. I walked in boots but other people I met wore runners and appeared to have no difficulties. Personal preference.

Thanks. I have hiking boots but I almost never wear them anymore and would prefer to stick with trail runners -- the older my feet get, the more I appreciate the cushioning!

 

[Chizuru]

The Komono Kodo is a strenuous walk with long steep uphills that are tree root steps with very short flat sections followed by equally steep downhills. It has many checkpoints, usually at the top of the uphills that you need to collect a stamp from in order to prove that you walked the whole way. The qualifying sections end in K Hongu Taisha which is where you get the certificate. You can also earn it by visiting all 3 Komono Taishas. It is the spiritual part of this Camino that counts more than the walking side of it.
I had knee issues so we divided the last section into 3 and stayed for 2 nights in the onsen area bussing to and from this area to where we finished the day before.
The first step was Chikatsuru to the road where the detour starts. Follow the road to the bridge and catch the bus to Yunomini onsen and your accommodation. Take the bus back the next morning and walk from the detour to Hosshimon oji the bus back for your second night. On the 3rd return and walk down to Hongu Taisha and get the certificate. This gives you the whole afternoon to explore this amazing area then catch the bus to your next accommodation.
If you feel great you can do the Detour start to H Oji then continue to Hongu Taisha which is on easy paths and all downhill but it will give you less time in Hongu Taisha area but it does mean that you don’t need an extra night in the onsen area. Don’t bus from Chikatsuru. It is a lovely section and invalidates your ability to get the dual Camino. If you do, then go and visit all three taishas and the waterfall and get those relevant stamps finishing at KHT.

 

[MarkN]

My wife an I walked the Kumano Kodo last November. It was a wonderful experience. Many of the comments here will provide you with all you need. Especially the Tanabe tourist website.

So I will try to add some things that I haven't read in the comments yet that we learned.
The route seems confusing if you look at it like a camino route. The temples are the 'end' (destination) but are along the path, unlike the Santiago cathedral at the 'end' of the Camino. Perhaps that's a bit Japanese or philosophical however as many feel it's the benefit to walk and not to get to the end, and many feel they continue to be pilgrims even after 'finishing'.

We booked many months in advance and still found that accommodations were slim.

We were not sure of how it was all going to work despite reading a lot and watching some videos. However we just planned as much as we could and went and found that the 'Kumano Kodo provides' too.

The route is more of a nature walk than the four Spanish Caminos I have done. Less little bars along the way and more need to bring water and snacks. In fact most places you stay at will provide you with a lunch for that day.

We did learn about a dozen Japanese phrases and that seemed to help a lot, especially in the little villages.

Nov was the right time for us to be there. We did get some rain, but we were in shorts and tshirts pretty much every day.

There seems to be less 'camino families' as many people walk sections and the harder terrain I think separates people? However we did meet and enjoy the company of many other pigrams.

We have many stories of meeting locals. We learned the Japanese word for pilgrim and quickly learned the word for surprize / amazed as a response. We were given little treats along the way, which we responded with a fresh little orange (Clementine?) or something.


It was a wonderful experience and one we hope to be able to do again. The natural beauty, warm people, and interesting history make it an experience we are fortunate to have been a part of.