LIVE from the Camino Slow walkers Almería to Mérida

[AJGuillaume]

Day 0 - Almería

My darling and I are slow walkers, distance challenged, and we're not purists. We thought we would share our experience and hopefully give some information about our walk on the Mozárabe to other peregrin@s who may be like us.

We arrived two days ago in Almería, as we intended to see a bit of the city, and we did well. There is a lot to see, and the Alcazaba is definitely a must see for history and old stones aficionados.

Another reason we came early, is to meet Nely, who is a member of the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada. She has a wealth of information, and she will be our point of contact, should anything untoward happen, until we arrive in Granada at least, and maybe beyond.

Many other illustrious members of this forum have written about the Mozárabe, so the purpose of our commentary will be to give you the perspective of two slow walking pilgrims.

We'll try to give you information about where we stayed, and any difficulties we encountered. I'll share Wikiloc tracks, and if you wish, you can follow us on FindPenguins.

In Almería, as we were staying more than the usual one night (we stayed 3), we chose to book a private apartment. It is situated in Calle Estrella, which is a great location: 10 minutes walk to the Alcazaba, 5 minutes walk to the cathedral.

Here are some snapshots of our stay in Almería, with one of us with Nely (on the right).

 

[Former member 60103]

The Mozarabe was the last Camino I walked before COVID broke everything. I recall Nely having had a coffee with her near to the cathedral and her giving valuable advice prior to my start. Fond memories of that Camino, the association albergues and the support given. When you get to Merida if you have a couple of days spare a short train journey and an overnight stay at Badajoz is well worth while.
Cannot comment on the Mozarabe from Malaga but from your location the Way is rewarding and very scenic in the early stages, especially along the old narrow gauge railway line.
Don.

 

[Former member 60103]

Apologies I should add.........
Buen Camino.
Don.

 

[C clearly]

I am really looking forward to following your journey!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 1 - Almería to Rioja (16km)

We started at about 7:30am from the cathedral. The walk out of Almería is very well signposted.

Mostly, it's walking along roads, except when we were on the rambla. We found that following tyre tracks in the rambla made walking easier.

For @OzAnnie , I've included photos of what the surface looked like.


The staff at the ayuntamientos in Huercal de Almería and Pichena were helpful and gave us a sello each.

I was very proud of my darling who walked superbly on our first day.

The albergue in Rioja is basic, 5 bunk beds, one shower/toilet, and not much of a kitchen. A roof over our heads, for which we are grateful.

We weren't really well prepared for lunch, expecting an open tienda, which wasn't. We went to the first bar we found, the Bar de La Oficina. If you stop in Rioja, the Bar Los Pirineos is much better, as we found out later.

Edit: here is our Wikiloc trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/almeria-rioja-114319430

 

[george.g]

Hi AJ.
I’m going to start tomorrow, where do expect to walk to tomorrow, it would be nice to say hello if our paths cross.
Regards
George

 

[AJGuillaume]

Hello George,
We're doing a short (very short ) stage tomorrow, to Santa Fé de Mondújar.
We're going to try and see the archeological site of Los Millares.
It would be great to meet you!
Buen Camino!

 

[OzAnnie]

A great start for you both AJ.
Thanks for the current pics of Day 1
Tread softly and buen camino
Just reading todays postings too from @george.g Looks like there is company at least to start. The Mozárabe is rocking

Annie

 

[JennyH94]

So wonderful to see you’re both back on a camino AJ! Your happiness really shines out in the photo with Nely.
Take joy in every slow step, in every moment and in every day -
Jenny

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 2 - Rioja to Santa Fé de Mondújar (8.7km) (and Los Millares, 9.6km)

A short stage, today, which gave us time to add to the distance tally

The walk was along roads which were not very busy. The road out of Rioja, until you reach the bridge to Gádor, is posted as "Ruta saludable por la Vereda de Quiciliana". Good for your health! Walking along a road was probably better than walking in the rambla on our second day. After the bridge to Gádor, the views out on the rambla are nice, and you can see Santa Fé in the distance.


Eliana had given us the choice of a room at the albergue for €15 per person, or one of the two apartments (El Olivo or El Naranjo) for €50 for an apartment. We contacted her initially by WhatsApp. We chose the apartment. Very comfortable. There's a room with a double bed, and another room with two singles, kitchen, bathroom, washing machine, air conditioner.


The short stage meant we had time to go to the Los Millares archeological site. It is worth a visit if you're interested in history and prehistory, and the entry is free. We walked from Santa Fé, and back. If we include the walking on the site, we added 9.6km to our stage.


Wikiloc for our stage: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/rioja-santa-fe-de-mondujar-114340444

Wikiloc for our walk to Los Millares: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/santa-fe-de-mondujar-los-millares-114358359

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 3 - Santa Fe de Mondújar to Santa Cruz de Marchena (13.4km)

Today was our first "challenging" walk. It started with a steep climb out of Santa Fe, just to test our legs, followed by a steady climb.

Coming down from the ridge, we then walked on a rambla for about a km. @OzAnnie , it was smooth walking, as we just followed the tracks left by vehicles.
Leaving the rambla, a gently climbing track took us to a main road (AL-3407).

However, when we got to the ridge after crossing the road, our hearts stopped. All we could see was a very steep descent (which you can see on a photo taken from the other side). Luckily, the Asociación Jacobea created a zig-zag path down.

I'm very proud of my darling who coped with the ascents and descents very well (and carefully)

But wait, before we could get to Alhabia, we had another up and down!
There are two tiendas in Alhabia, and you may need to use one of them if, like us, you're stopping in Santa Cruz de Marchena, as there are no tiendas there.
The walk from Alhabia to Santa Cruz de Marchena is on a road along a rambla. We stopped for a picnic in Alsodux.
The albergue in Santa Cruz de Marchena is on two stories, fully equipped kitchen and dining room downstairs, two bedrooms upstairs with two single beds each.
Not many pilgrims stop here: the last ones were on 28 August 2022.


It was a good day: glad we planned to stop in Santa Fe: it allowed us to tackle the ascents fresh in the morning. And glad that we didn't plan to go further than Santa Cruz: it was just what we could handle.

Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/santa-fe-de-mondujar-santa-cruz-de-marchena-114438410

 

[Tony Calhoun]

Day 3 - Santa Fe de Mondújar to Santa Cruz de Marchena (13.4km)

Today was our first "challenging" walk. It started with a steep climb out of Santa Fe, just to test our legs, followed by a steady climb.
View attachment 133483
Coming down from the ridge, we then walked on a rambla for about a km. @OzAnnie , it was smooth walking, as we just followed the tracks left by vehicles.
Leaving the rambla, a gently climbing track took us to a main road (AL-3407).
View attachment 133485
However, when we got to the ridge after crossing the road, our hearts stopped. All we could see was a very steep descent (which you can see on a photo taken from the other side). Luckily, the Asociación Jacobea created a zig-zag path down.
View attachment 133486
I'm very proud of my darling who coped with the ascents and descents very well (and carefully)
View attachment 133487
But wait, before we could get to Alhabia, we had another up and down!
There are two tiendas in Alhabia, and you may need to use one of them if, like us, you're stopping in Santa Cruz de Marchena, as there are no tiendas there.
The walk from Alhabia to Santa Cruz de Marchena is on a road along a rambla. We stopped for a picnic in Alsodux.
The albergue in Santa Cruz de Marchena is on two stories, fully equipped kitchen and dining room downstairs, two bedrooms upstairs with two single beds each.
Not many pilgrims stop here: the last ones were on 28 August 2022.
View attachment 133489View attachment 133490

Thank you, my wife and I may get over there yet. I would like to plan a camino with reasonable (for us) distances. We will follow you.

 

[VNwalking]

So great to find this thread, AJ, thank you! Others have mentioned the stony walking as being quite a challenge, but you both seem to be taking it in stride. I guess walking shorter stages would make it less exhausting.
Buen camino!

 

[george.g]

Hi.
Unfortunately it doesn’t look like we will meet. I’m in Abla today, the walk from Alboloduy was a complete.........lots of mud and water, ended up with a short taxi ride or else my feet or my hokas would have been destroyed
Regards
George

 

[AJGuillaume]

Hi.
Unfortunately it doesn’t look like we will meet. I’m in Abla today, the walk from Alboloduy was a complete.........lots of mud and water, ended up with a short taxi ride or else my feet or my hokas would have been destroyed
Regards
George

Hello George,
We looked out for you in Santa Fe, but when we heard the site of Los Millares closed at 2pm, we went there.
Nely called me to say someone had taken a taxi: I guessed it might have been you.
Hopefully we will meet on another Camino!
Buen Camino!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 4 - Santa Cruz de Marchena to Nacimiento (11.3km out of 16)

There were 5 parts to this stage.

The first was from Santa Cruz de Marchena to about 1km after Alboloduy. The walk was pleasant and along the road that follows the río Nacimiento. In Alboloduy, the flow of water was wide enough to make us head back to the footbridge crossing the river. Why the Camino doesn't cross there in the first place is a mystery.

That first crossing was the start of the second phase, the theme of which was how do we cross the river without getting our feet wet. Well, we were winning until the last 10 metres. Until then we just picked the right spots to cross, threw big stones in the water to create stepping stones, and even went bush bashing (as we say in Australia). But the flow was really too wide when we had to cross for the last time, and we didn't have enough stones to throw, so both my darling and I got at least one foot wet

The third phase was an amazing climb up from the river to the carretera A-1075. The views were amazing. We even saw two cabras monteses. My only caution is to pilgrims who may have fear of heights: the path is narrow in many parts.

The fourth phase was walking along the carretera A-1075. Today being Sunday, all the motorbike riders were out revving up and down the road. Not pleasant.

The final stage was decided last night. Nely called us to tell us that the río was too muddy after the descent down from the carretera, and that we should contact Santiago in Nacimiento to ask him to pick us up. Which we did. Santiago is from Argentina and he took us to Nacimiento. We're staying in a house which is built on a number of levels, many intermediate. Only one room has beds, and I assume he's working towards making this an albergue. There's one bathroom, a kitchen, but we're just going to eat at his bar.


Alboloduy has a Covirán tienda which is open from 9am to 2pm. There is a carnicería in Nacimiento which was open today until 2pm. I'm not sure what the full opening hours may be, and they also had other groceries, fruit and vegetables.

Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/santa-cruz-de-marchena-nacimiento-114561353
Note that it includes the car trip, as I forgot to stop the recording.

 

[C clearly]

an amazing climb up from the river to the carretera A-1075. The views were amazing. We even saw two cabras monteses. My only caution is to pilgrims who may have fear of heights: the path is narrow in many parts.

I agree 100%. For me, that section ranks up there among the 2 or 3 most stunning parts of any of my Caminos. It isn't just the scenery. It is the exhilaration of being up there, with no one around, in a rocky dry inhospitable environment, with spectacular views, and a destination somewhere over those hills.

 

[AJGuillaume]

I agree 100%. For me, that section ranks up there among the 2 or 3 most stunning parts of any of my Caminos. It isn't just the scenery. It is the exhilaration of being up there, with no one around, in a rocky dry inhospitable environment, with spectacular views, and a destination somewhere over those hills.

@C clearly , you've captured it: the exhilaration!

 

[george.g]

Hi AJ.
Yes I made the mistake of dropping back down to the Rio, totally dismayed when I saw the river but no way was I going to climb back out. But at least my feet survived and that’s the main thing.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 5 - Nacimiento to Abla (16.5km)

A nice day mostly walking along the rambla of the río Nacimiento. We found out last night that all the water downstream from Nacimiento came from Nacimiento. Upstream, the rambla is nearly bone dry.

Others have mentioned the stony walking as being quite a challenge, but you both seem to be taking it in stride. I guess walking shorter stages would make it less exhausting.

On the subject of walking along the rambla, and I'm thinking of @OzAnnie as I write this, we found out that when there were farms along the rambla, we could always walk in the tracks left by vehicles. Nice and easy.

However, when there were no farms, or if vehicles did not access the rambla then we would have to pick a track. Often, where water had been flowing recently, it left a relatively soft surface. Today, about 2km after Ocaña, the rambla is between the autovía and a carretera. So there were no vehicle tracks, and the going was slower. But then we're slow walkers, so it doesn't make a difference


Our first stop was in the hamlet of Los Gregorios. There's a bench, some shade.

When you get to Doña Maria, you can keep going on the rambla. We did the detour and got our first stamp at the Ayuntamiento. As you enter the town, there is a fountain with drinkable water. There's also a bar, which could be a reason to make the detour.

In Ocaña, there is an albergue. My darling had an urgent need, and we couldn't find a public toilet. So we called Nely, and she gave us the code for the albergue. It's a very simple albergue. No real kitchen, 3 bunk beds.

The only surprise we had was as we approached Abla. The guide and the GPX show the track passing under the autovía, then along a little access road, and then a left turn back to the rambla. When we got to the point where we were supposed to turn to the left to go to the rambla, the arrows had been painted over, and there were two big yellow Xs painted on the pillars of the autovía. Multiple arrows pointed to a turn to the right to get onto the carretera A-1177. We just followed the arrows, and after a while trudging on the side of the carretera (there is enough space to avoid cars), I thought it was odd. We followed the carretera all the way to Abla, and I then queried whether we had missed a turn with Nely. She replied that the going was too hard on the rambla, so they decided to route the Camino on the carretera.

The albergue in Abla is at the other end of the town, but it is really worth it. Two rooms with 3 bunk beds in each, a fully equipped kitchen with washing machine and a clothes dryer. The only issue with the bathroom is that the shower curtain is too short. I nearly forgot: there is WiFi!


Abla is a nice town. It's all on a hill, so if you're going to walk around, be ready to climb steps or steep streets.

Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/nacimiento-abla-114657971

 

[C clearly]

the going was too hard on the rambla, so they decided to route the Camino on the carretera.

It would be nice if they could indicate the two alternatives. My notes for that day from Ocaña do say "Hard day - endless river bed!" But I'm not sure that the highway would be necessarily be my preferred choice. If they put up X's, it suggests that there might be an important barrier or problem ahead, rather than simply a hard day.

Like so many experiences, to have finished that days-long stretch of rambla gives a sense of accomplishment and a certain marvel.

 

[VNwalking]

Like so many experiences, to have finished that days-long stretch of rambla gives a sense of accomplishment and a certain marvel.

The best thing about the camino are those moments, aren't they? Everyone speaks of the endless river rocks on this stretch, and it sounds like a challenge, but a lovely one.

 

[C clearly]

but a lovely one.

Haha, yes. But I'm not sure I would apply the word "lovely".

 

[VNwalking]

But I'm not sure I would apply the word "lovely".

Yeah, I bet!
(I was thinking of the views that we are seeing. )

 

[C clearly]

Yeah, I bet!
(I was thinking of the views that we are seeing. )

Even the views are dramatic /amazing more than lovely.

 

[dsharpe]

Do you have a time line of when you expect to arrive in Córdoba or Merida? For us Córdoba October 13th and Merida October 24th. Would be nice if our paths were to cross.
Buen Camino.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Yeah, I bet!
(I was thinking of the views that we are seeing. )

Definitely! In this case I would apply the word lovely! We might not have the spring flowers, but the views to date have been beautiful.
Speaking of flowers, we do get beauty, even if a bit prickly

 

[AJGuillaume]

Do you have a time line of when you expect to arrive in Córdoba or Merida? For us Córdoba October 13th and Merida October 24th. Would be nice if our paths were to cross.
Buen Camino.

We're hoping to arrive in Córdoba on 22 October, and in Mérida on 6 November.
We are slow walkers
Also, we're walking the two stages from Jaén.
If you're walking the Mozárabe, we'll cross paths, no doubt.

 

[dsharpe]

@Freewalker you might run into @AJGuillaume who are currently posting from Almeria.

 

[george.g]

Currently in Alquife after a great walking day, staying at Casa Lacho, made very welcome, the lady of the house has offered to make dinner which is very kind.
Nely was concerned that the Albergue in Hueneja might not be clean and offered an alternative, shown as closed in their guide. The “main” albergue is not as good as the 5 star in Abla but there’s beds a kitchen and a shower, small but enough, just wish the dog that barked all night didn’t!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 6 - Abla to Huéneja (20.6km)

Initially, we were hoping to walk from Abla to La Huertezuela, but the only accommodation in La Huertezuela was booked out. The owner told us that if we were struggling by the time we arrived in La Huertezuela, he would drive us to Huéneja.

Our options were to walk from Abla to Huéneja, to take a taxi from Abla to Fiñana, or take up the offer from the owner of the accommodation in La Huertezuela.

When my darling got up this morning, she felt great and said she would be happy to walk the 20km.

The walk was nice, a mix of sealed country roads (tarmac), unsealed (gravel) roads, rambla (most of it comfortable walking in vehicle tracks),

and walking up the riverbed of río Izfalada, which I wouldn't call a rambla because it's a narrow riverbed.

We stopped in Fiñana to get a sello, and then we walked the unending, but with beautiful views, road to Venta Ratonera. We stopped there for 15 minutes, but there was no shade.

We went on to La Huertezuela. We took a shortcut from Los Olivos to La Huertezuela. We sat on benches in the shade near the playground of the polideportivo. Then, when we left, we found another place where there is shade, and a fountain, just before you turn right onto the río Izfalada.

Nely was concerned that the Albergue in Hueneja might not be clean and offered an alternative, shown as closed in their guide.

Nely had told us in Almería that Casa Violeta was a better choice than the municipal albergue in Huéneja. So that's where we're staying tonight

Donativo, there are 4 rooms, two with double beds, one with a single bed, and one with two single beds. Bathroom, kitchen, comfortable.


I'm proud of my darling who walked all the way. I did notice her slowing down after La Huertezuela, but when I asked her if I should get a ride with the owner of the accommodation there, she said no.

It wasn't too hot: a nice breeze kept blowing all day, keeping the temperature down. Also, we're now at an altitude of 1170m, so I would expect it to be a little bit cooler.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/abla-hueneja-114731421

 

[VNwalking]

It looks really dry - and I can't imagine how it must be in the heat of summer. How are the temps now?

 

[AJGuillaume]

It looks really dry - and I can't imagine how it must be in the heat of summer. How are the temps now?

Because we're at a higher altitude, during the day the temperature went up to 26°C. The breeze also helped a lot. At night, the temperature dropped to 9°C.
Everyone we have spoken to confirms that it would be madness to walk here in summer.

 

[george.g]

Alquife to Guadix proved to be a bit of a test today, one or two unexpected hills and although I’ve walked this route before it’s strange how you don’t remember the difficult bits and the road to the Rio and the Rio seemed to go on and on.
Staying at the Carsona de la Luz, the owner tells me it’s over a 1000 years old, can be found on a booking app. Very reasonable rates, plus laundry service.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 7 - Huéneja to La Calahorra (15km)

The arrows out of Huéneja were confusing: one set takes you to the albergue, the other leads you out of town. On the wall at Casa Violeta, there was a map, and I should have paid attention

After that, it was a nice walk, no rambla , with nice towns, nice paths. A very enjoyable day.

As we crossed into Granada province, from a distance, we could see the castillo


By chance we arrived on the only day of the week it is open! So we walked up the little path, and followed the guide. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside. And our (my) Spanish was put to the test, as our guide spoke fast with an Andalusian accent


We're staying at the Hospedería del Zenete, very nice, and comfortable.


Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hueneja-la-calahorra-114799849#wp-114799859

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 8 - La Calahorra to Cogollos de Guadix (19.2km)

Actually 18km, but we walked around looking for the Ayuntamiento in Alquife. Ayuntamientos are really useful places, not just because they provide sellos, but they nearly all have aseos

The only part which caught our attention on our walk from La Calahorra to Alquife and from Alquife to Jérez del Marquesado is the enormity of the mine.

That part of the day was otherwise nondescript.

Jérez del Marquesado is a wonderful little town. We bought vegetable empanadas and pastries from El Molino, and ate them at the Parque de la Música.


The walk from Jérez del Marquesado to Cogollos de Guadix was nice, along a pine forest, with views of the plain and the huge tailings hills of Alquife.

Then along a water reservoir, and down to Cogollos de Guadix.

We're staying at Cortijo Maromilla, and they charge €20 per pilgrim. They have two rooms with twin beds in each, kitchen, a beautiful patio, and ... a swimming pool! Cold water, but we soaked our feet in it and it did us a lot of good


Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-calahorra-cogollos-de-guadix-114879041

 

[george.g]

Now at Quentar, didn’t take left option to Tocon, I was worried that last nights rain would have made the tracks muddy, luckily no, nice firm gravel, just as well as there’s quite a lot of uphill and no places to refuel.
Staying at La Fundalucia, while the website suggests a minimum stay of 2 nights, the owner was happy to take an e-mail booking for one night, oh and there’s a swimming pool.
Granada tomorrow, then bus to Seville for the VdeLP.

 

[OzAnnie]

We're staying at Cortijo Maromilla, and they charge €20 per pilgrim. They have two rooms with twin beds in each, kitchen, a beautiful patio, and ... a swimming pool! Cold water, but we soaked our feet in it and it did us a lot of good

This place looks lovely AJ. I’m sure it would have been very restorative putting your feet in that cold pool. The patio tho -very charming and peaceful spot.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 9 - Cogollos de Guadix to Guadix (12.8km)

This morning we had breakfast in the bar Los Mellizos. The owner, Paco, is the brother of Carmina who owns Cortijo Maromilla. And this morning, he told us that he's about to open up a hotel in Cogollos. He'll have pilgrim rates.

So it would be an alternative in Cogollos de Guadix for slow walkers distance challenged like us.

Today's walk was partly on a quiet road, partly on gravel track. Nothing to note until you get to the barrio de las cuevas in Guadix. There's obviously a touristy aspect to this part of town, but we took someone's advice to visit Cueva del Mirador, also known as Cueva de José. Donativo entry, and a real lived in cueva. José was born there.


We had contacted Paco of the Asociación in July to ask him for a accommodation recommendation in Guadix, as we'll be celebrating a milestone in our life together. He suggested the hotel where we're staying: Hotel Abentofail. Nice and comfortable, and in the centre.

We're staying in Guadix for two nights. Tomorrow we'll visit the Roman Theatre and walk about Guadix.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cogollos-de-guadix-guadix-114925134

 

[VNwalking]

Happy anniversary - may it be a wondeful day!

 

[george.g]

Arrived Granada, the climb out of Dudar was a little bit brutal, no refuel stops till Sacramonte, but the view of the Alhambra made up for the effort. Although you could take road into Granada but traffic could be a problem.
Staying at the Oasis Backpackers, a definitely “hippy vibe” but very central. Off to Seville tomorrow effectively a rest day, to start the VdeLP on Monday.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Arrived Granada, the climb out of Dudar was a little bit brutal, no refuel stops till Sacramonte, but the view of the Alhambra made up for the effort. Although you could take road into Granada but traffic could be a problem.
Staying at the Oasis Backpackers, a definitely “hippy vibe” but very central. Off to Seville tomorrow effectively a rest day, to start the VdeLP on Monday.

Thank you @george.g !
I'm glad the climb out of Dudar is early in the day for us, my darling should be able to tackle it.
Buen Camino!

Day 10 - Guadix

We started the day by doing the guided visit of the Roman Theatre. Not just any tourist guide, but the archeologist who is in charge of the excavations, the analysis, the understanding of this theatre. He made it very interesting, with background information, and comparisons with other theatres.

The only thing is, the visit is once a week, on a Saturday, at 10am.

The rest of the day we enjoyed the streets of Guadix, took in the views at the Mirador de la Magdalena, looked into a number of churches, some of which were of the Mudéjar style.


A thoroughly enjoyable rest day!

Edit:
At the Roman Theatre, we were a small group of 4, which made the interaction even better with our guide. To give you a taste of his passion, here's a video:

 

[VNwalking]

Wow, lucky you - that theatre!
This is so much better than the virtual planning caminos - they were fun too, but this is embodied.
Buen camino, you two!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Wow, lucky you - that theatre!
This is so much better than the virtual planning caminos - they were fun too, but this is embodied.
Buen camino, you two!

Gracias @VNwalking ! We would have loved to visit the Alcazaba in Guadix, too, but like the Roman Theatre, it's open one day per week, on a Thursday at 10am.

Day 11 - Guadix to Los Baños de Graena (13.2km)

Once you leave the sphere of human interaction with nature (read dumping of rubbish along roads and paths) of Guadix, the walk is beautiful. The trail goes through a pine forest, interspersed with a few eucalyptus trees.

In Purullena, it being a Sunday today, everything was closed, except for a little supermarket, and a very noisy bar. I made the mistake of asking the owner if he had a stamp... Yes, he certainly did, the stamp of his company

After the sphere of human interaction around Purullena, the walk was ok on a small road. And then on the main road into town, there was a welcome sign to Marchal. Not just any welcome sign, a welcome to pilgrims sign.

Then starts a gentle ascent that takes you to a number of miradores, and a rest place for pilgrims!

Los Baños de Graena is quiet. I guess it gets busy during the high season. We're staying at the Hotel Balneario because they had a good rate including breakfast (€22.50 per person), but also because nothing else was really available.

There is a little shop. Closed when we went past, but the note says it's open in summer between 9:30am and 1pm, and between 6 and 8pm. Does it mean it's not open in the off season? No sé!

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/guadix-los-banos-115130971

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 12 - Los Baños de Graena to La Peza (11km)

Today was a nice walk, even if a good part of it was along a road which was not very busy.

The first part was on a dirt road, which then became a dirt track


As we gradually climbed in altitude, we enjoyed nice views.

We even had a tunnel and bridge combination:

The last approach down to La Peza is on a gravel track, where we had to be careful not to fall.

La Peza has, technically, a supermarket, but we have been told it had been closed for a while. There is another little tienda, hidden away at number 7, Calle Fuentezuela


We're staying at the albergue. There are 6 rooms, 3 of which have just one bunk bed, so room for two. Guess who's sleeping on the top bunk tonight

The albergue is run by the Ayuntamiento, not by the Asociación, and as Paco told us, it is not well run, and things like heaters, some mattress covers, cutlery and plates, have gone missing.

Unfortunately there is no real alternative, as local casas rurales owners are asking a high price.

Tomorrow, we will walk to Tocón de Quentar. There's no mobile coverage there, so we have asked for the code to open the key box today.

This also means I won't be posting tomorrow, but I'll post two days when we get to Quéntar.

Also, we have bought supplies, as there is no tienda in Tocón, although there is a restaurant.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/los-banos-lapeza-115251529

 

[Bernice M]

Definitely! In this case I would apply the word lovely! We might not have the spring flowers, but the views to date have been beautiful.
Speaking of flowers, we do get beauty, even if a bit prickly
View attachment 133665

That flower looks like an Eryngium. I have similar in my garden. Always in lovely shades of grey and mauve.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 13 - La Peza to Tocón de Quéntar (13km)

Today was a day with a lot of steady climbing, except for the exit from La Peza. That ascent was steep and was meant to test our legs!

Once we had overcome that first test, it was a beautiful walk. Forest paths, gravel paths or roads, sometimes soft pine needles under foot.

And the views!

The climb culminates at the pass Puerto de los Blancares, at 1297m. There, if you're a slow walker and distance challenged as we are, you choose to keep your day short and stop in Tocón de Quéntar

The only accommodation is the albergue.

It had been cleaned yesterday by Paco of the Asociación, and he had stocked up the kitchen. There are 3 rooms on the first floor, one with one bunk bed, the other two with two bunk beds each.
The kitchen is well equipped, and in the bathroom there's a washing machine.

There is no tienda in the village, so you have to bring in everything you want to eat. If you don't want to do your own cooking there's a bar. It's closed on Mondays, and we can vouch for the quality of the food. It's home made food, and it was tasty! Also, because the area is not well served by the mobile network, make sure you have cash.

Did I mention no internet? Unless you're with Movistar, you're out of range, not only in the village but also for a fair distance around.

We really enjoyed today, and we made new friends, Juan José and Javier.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-peza-tocon-de-quentar-115392843

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 14 - Tocón de Quéntar to Quéntar (15.9km)

Tocón de Quéntar is at about 1200m altitude. Our walk today involved climbing to the highest point of the Camino Mozárabe, at 1418m above sea level. A gentle climb, except for a short section which rises fairly quickly from the main road which runs past Tocón, to the gravel road which we would have taken had we not been slow walkers and distance challenged.


The views are superb, and the trail is great.
We're not sure where exactly is the highest point is, but we figured it was somewhere in a disused quarry.

From there, it's downhill. The descent is gradual, but it seems unending. Yet it provides beautiful views. There are a few sections where you do have to watch your step.

There are two places where you can sleep, Fundalucia, which is a private albergue, and Quéntar Hotel. The former was full and the latter is ok.

There are two shops, and never believe what the search engine tells you: if it says open from 09:00 to 21:00, they know nothing about Spanish shops closing at 2pm!

The weather is still nice and warm, but nights are getting cooler. And we have noticed the first autumn colours.


Another very enjoyable day!

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tocon-de-quentar-quentar-115404162

 

[C clearly]

I thought that quarry (talc?) was stunning and surreal. Spooky but fascinating!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 15 - Quéntar to Granada (18.6km)

Arrived Granada, the climb out of Dudar was a little bit brutal, no refuel stops till Sacramonte, but the view of the Alhambra made up for the effort.

@george.g was right, that climb out of Dúdar did test us. We stopped at a bar just before the start of the ascent. Not sure if that was what was needed, but we made it to the top, step by step, and my darling did very well! In case you wonder what we drank before climbing: "un Colacao y una manzanilla, por favor"

Once you're at the top, it's a wonderful walk on a ridge, with views on both sides.

The descent to Granada was good, took us down to an hacienda in a state of disrepair, then through an olive grove, and then along the río Darro

Finally you arrive at the Sacromonte. You can keep walking straight ahead, we chose to climb up to the Abbey. It was around 12:40pm, we were starting to get tired, but we didn't regret it. We had visited in 2019, and we remembered the view

Yes, no regrets!
We booked an apartment in the Albaycín area, 5 minutes walk to the cathedral, but we walked on to the cathedral, just to get a sello

Another enjoyable day!

We're staying two nights in Granada. We've been here before, but if you haven't and you're not pressed for time, set some aside to see the Alhambra, for which you have to book tickets in advance, and other sights.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/quentar-granada-115492328

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 16 - Granada

A day without mochila!
And a sleep in. We spent the day wandering about, went to see the Madraza on @peregrina2000 's suggestion,

the Palacio Dar al-Horra, the Casa Horno de Oro, and the Bañuelo, all for €5

Admins, delete this bit if not appropriate, but we have a suggestion for some excellent food in Granada, Papas Elvira, they serve vegan and vegetarian, home made, and delicious!

And this evening I'm going to try and find a replacement for my insoles which are worn out and have caused me some feet issues

 

[Bernice M]

[QUOTE="AJGuillaume, post:
Day 15 -

“We're staying two nights in Granada. We've been here before, but if you haven't and you're not pressed for time, set some aside to see the Alhambra, for which you have to book tickets in advance.”

For the gardening obsessed, tickets for the gardens alone are usually available on demand. Find where they sell them in the town (it changes every time I visit), so you don't get to queue for hours to get in. Then at the Alhambra, bypass the crowds collecting tickets and go to the far right hand side of the entrance with your tickets in hand.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 17 - Granada to Pinos Puente (16.5km)

We were warned the exit from Granada was uninteresting, but we didn't want to skip this stage altogether.

We walked to the cathedral, and followed the arrows until we got to a stop on Granada's only tram line, at the end of the park on Avenida de la Constitución, where there's the statue of the torero

That was about 2.1km

We took the tram/metro. The ticket is €1.35, to which you have to add €0.30 for a thin plastic card. That card can be used for several passengers. So in our case, the cost was €3.

Seven stops later we got off at Maracena and got back on to the Camino.

The walk to Atarfe is through both industrial and semi-agricultural areas. From Atarfe, it's a mix of wasteland and agricultural land. No shade whatsoever. The distance from the tram stop to Pinos Puente was 14.4km.

We were surprised and intrigued by the fact that the two bridges we crossed had space for pedestrians but these couldn't be accessed because of the crash barrier.


We're staying at Hotel Monserrat, because there's not much else around.

There are two tiendas in the town.

Our Wikiloc tracks, first one for the bit in Granada, the second one from Maracena:

Exit Granada

Exit Granada Hiking trail in Sacromonte, Andalucía (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Maracena - Pinos Puente

Maracena - Pinos Puente Hiking trail in Maracena, Andalucía (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

 

[dougfitz]

We were surprised and intrigued by the fact that the two bridges we crossed had space for pedestrians but these couldn't be accessed because of the crash barrier.

I have to ask, weren't you able to get over them at all?

 

[C clearly]

I have to ask, weren't you able to get over them at all?

The first time I stepped over a crash barrier on the Camino, I lifted one leg in front like a high-jumping scissor kick, and the weight of my backpack almost brought me crashing backwards to the ground . Since then, every time I do it, I remember to carefully bend forward to grasp the barrier and do the scissor step behind me!

 

[AJGuillaume]

I have to ask, weren't you able to get over them at all?

I might have been able to get over them, but not my darling. They are pretty high!

 

[jungleboy]

Admins, delete this bit if not appropriate, but we have a suggestion for some excellent food in Granada, Papas Elvira, they serve vegan and vegetarian, home made, and delicious!

Sounds appropriate to me!

 

[dougfitz]

I might have been able to get over them, but not my darling. They are pretty high!

Not good. There is enough walking on vehicle roadways as it is. When there is room to move off the road, I feel a little more comfortable, but that didn't look pleasant.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 18 - Pinos Puente to Moclín (15.5km)

The first 5.8km were along roads, both in the town and when we left town

The traffic on that road was light, and most drivers gave us room.
When we arrived at Cortijo de Búcor, the walk became more enjoyable, with gravel tracks, or walking through olive orchards

It's reasonably flat all the way to Olivares, where there's a bar.

And then our legs were tested: up to Moclín! On average, it's a 10% gradient. It's a nice climb, with great views


Moclín has a tienda in the main square. It was closed today, Sunday, but also because we timed our stage well (by chance!): today was one of the local festivities, the Romería del Cristo del Paño.
We went all the way to the church, and while we were up there, we visited the castle (€5 for a guided visit, €2.50 if you just want to go up there and take photos)


We're staying at a place which is not listed in the Asociación Jacobea guide, Casa la Cabra. Steve and Sarah (from the UK) have two apartments, one with a double bed, and one with two singles.


Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/pinos-puente-moclin-115777262

Edit: forgot to mention a place where we ate well and cheaply: Bar Kiosco Nono. €1 per tapa, €2 per drink.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 19 - Moclín to Alcalá la Real (23.7km)

We always knew that after Granada we would have stages that would be longer than our preferred distance. If we can keep the day's walking to less than 20km, we're happy. Today was the first of about 10 more stages which will be longer than 20km.

For anyone reading this who do not know us, we're slow walkers and distance challenged, so please don't judge us

For all of the stages with distances above 20km, I had a plan B. In today's case, before arriving at Alcalá, the Camino crosses the carretera N-432 after about 15.5km. There, I knew that a taxi could come and pick us up. I had the number of Taxi Yonni: 687 322 831.

Well today I'm proud of my darling: when we were nearing the decision point, she said she wanted to walk all the way. She quipped: I want to earn my rest day tomorrow

Today's walk was another enjoyable day. Mostly on gravel tracks, and always with beautiful surrounds. There's something philosophical when we were walking amongst the olive trees, knowing that many of them were much older than we are ...

We had some walking along roads. The first is after about 4km. The road wasn't too busy. That road connected to the N-432, which was busy. When we thought it was safe to cross, out of nowhere another vehicle would appear.

The next bit on the N-432 was after about 9km. The arrows all pointed to walking along the road

I had a GPX track that guided us through the olive grove to the left of the road, and where the road veers to the right, takes a disused track off the road, behind some ruins, and then back to the road further down:

I can't remember where I got this track, but if I hadn't had it, we would have just followed the road, praying that the next luxury fast car would not wipe us out. We walked on the left facing the traffic, and I was wearing a high visibility vest. We would wave to truck drivers as they approached and they would all wave back and give us a wide berth.

The weather was overcast as we set off, with a forecast for rain. A few drops did fall as we were in Ermita Nueva, but not enough to wet us.

In Cequia, there's a little tienda, and the only bar was closed today. In Ermita Nueva, no tienda, no bar, but there is a cheese shop/factory, where we bought goat cheese and biscuits.


After the crossing of the N-432, there are wooden signs showing the way to Alcalá, and marked Camino Mozárabe de Santiago.

I think they're old, and we followed the mojones, as well as our GPX track.

We're staying two nights in a room at Mirador Tierra de Frontera, which is in the Asociación Jacobea guide. Comfortable, there's a shared kitchen and it has a great view on the Fortaleza de la Mota.


Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/moclin-alcala-la-real-115910709

Tomorrow is a rest day, but we'll keep our legs fit by climbing to the Fortaleza de la Mota.

 

[Bernice M]

AJG and your good wife, thank you for these considered distances. Also for the accommodation information and phone numbers. I will be following your tracks and this thread early May 2023.

 

[dougfitz]

For anyone reading this who do not know us, we're slow walkers and distance challenged, so please don't judge us

Not judge you! Of course I will. I think it is a great thing to be sufficiently self-aware about your capabilities, and to plan your stages with those in mind. What a great example you are providing to others.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 20 - Alcalá la Real

Not much to say about today. We started at the Palacio Abacial, which is a museum

We then walked up to the Fortaleza de la Mota, and spent over 5 hours wandering around.

If you have time, want a rest day from carrying a mochila, interested in history and old stones, then you may need to consider a rest day in Alcalá la Real.

If you happen to be in Alcalá la Real, on Tuesdays, after 3pm, entry is free.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 21 - Alcalá la Real to Alcaudete (23.2km)

Plan B was today was to get a taxi to Puertollano, and that would have shaved about 5km off our total length. Well we're glad we didn't. We looked back after leaving Alcalá la Real:


The walk was nice, despite the noise coming from the N-432, the Carretera de Córdoba. Mostly on gravel tracks, with olive trees all around.

There were only two crossings of the N-432, and both of these got us wondering. The first one was at about 8.8km from Alcalá. 100m before we were to cross, there were confusing signs: arrows painted on stones showing to the right, and one of Camino Mozárabe signs on a stake pointing to the left. We decided to follow the new sign, but nearly missed the arrows showing where we had to cross:

These were on the other side of the road.
Had we followed the arrows to the right, we would have crossed under the road in a culvert. We had a storm last night, and I can just imagine the mud in that culvert...

The second crossing was just before arriving to Ventas del Carrizal. The gravel path comes to and end, and there across the very busy road, on the security barrier, is a yellow sign
No break in the barrier. My darling did get across, but not easily:


Ventas del Carrizal has a little bar, where we had a drink, and where 11 UK pilgrims and their guide, walking from Granada to Córdoba, caught up with us. I didn't notice any tienda.

The remainder of the walk was fine, with a few ascents with little shelter from the sun on the trail. We did find a spot under a large oak tree to rest in the shade.

We're staying at Spa Rueda in Alcaudete, listed in the Asociación Jacobea guide. Their restaurant is closed, it doesn't look like the place is busy, and to get to our room we enter through a side door. But it's comfortable, we have a roof over our heads.

My darling made another great effort, and we're learning how to cope with the longer distances, with more regular breaks.

Tomorrow we're taking a Blablacar (how exciting, our first time!) to Jaén, where we'll meet Jacinto from the Asociación Jacobea de Jaén, and where we'll have not one, but two rest days. What, you've just had a rest day and you're having two more? Yes, we've never been to Jaén, and the San Lucas feria is happening this week. And Jacinto had already told us there's so much to see!

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/alcala-la-real-alcaudete-116081243

 

[OzAnnie]

You are both going ‘great guns’ AJ and Rachel.
You must be so proud of yourselves.
I’m getting a lot from your posts. Thankyou.
Enjoy Jaén
Annie.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Day 21 - Alcalá la Real to Alcaudete (23.2km)

...Had we followed the arrows to the right, we would have crossed under the road in a culvert. We had a storm last night, and I can just imagine the mud in that culvert...

Possibly the culvert in the photo posted by Xali, taken on Oct 10th?
You must have crossed paths with them somewhere, surely.

 

[Pilgrim2012]

Day 0 - Almería

My darling and I are slow walkers, distance challenged, and we're not purists. We thought we would share our experience and hopefully give some information about our walk on the Mozárabe to other peregrin@s who may be like us.

We arrived two days ago in Almería, as we intended to see a bit of the city, and we did well. There is a lot to see, and the Alcazaba is definitely a must see for history and old stones aficionados.

Another reason we came early, is to meet Nely, who is a member of the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada. She has a wealth of information, and she will be our point of contact, should anything untoward happen, until we arrive in Granada at least, and maybe beyond.

Many other illustrious members of this forum have written about the Mozárabe, so the purpose of our commentary will be to give you the perspective of two slow walking pilgrims.

We'll try to give you information about where we stayed, and any difficulties we encountered. I'll share Wikiloc tracks, and if you wish, you can follow us on FindPenguins.

In Almería, as we were staying more than the usual one night (we stayed 3), we chose to book a private apartment. It is situated in Calle Estrella, which is a great location: 10 minutes walk to the Alcazaba, 5 minutes walk to the cathedral.

Here are some snapshots of our stay in Almería, with one of us with Nely (on the right).
View attachment 133367View attachment 133368View attachment 133369View attachment 133370

buen camino

 

[AJGuillaume]

Possibly the culvert in the photo posted by Xali, taken on Oct 10th?
You must have crossed paths with them somewhere, surely.

Do you have the link to the post, please, @Peregrinopaul ?
On October 10th we were arriving in Alcalá la Real, so Cali would have been ahead of us, and by now we'll ahead of us. We have been following all the pilgrims who started from Almería: Nely from the Asociación posts their photos on the FB page of the Camino Mozárabe. We have met some, and others we haven't seen.

Edit: I found the post. It could have been the same culvert, but we only saw it from above, and what we saw was a lot of mud, branches and rubbish.
We didn't meet, but might have seen each other from afar? Bicycle riders often take different paths to us.

 

[AJGuillaume]

You must have crossed paths with them somewhere, surely.

Turns out Xali saw us (we're not inconspicuous ) at the Fortaleza.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Turns out Xali saw us (we're not inconspicuous ) at the Fortaleza.

Xali might have been surprised that I was able to identify some landscapes in his photos on his thread. But that was only because I have already been following you closely, and "google-earthing", and looking at geological maps. You are traversing fascinating country. And obviously revelling in it. Buen Camino!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 22 - Alcaudete and Jaén

We have planned to walk the two stages from Jaén to Alcaudete. Yesterday, we tried to figure out when there would be a bus from Alcaudete to Jaén, and the information we found was conflicting. We could have trusted what was on the website of the bus company, but we didn't want to turn up at the bus station and there would be no bus. We were also told there was no point going to the bus station to find out about buses because there was no information there, and no one in attendance.

So instead, we used Blablacar, and found a nurse going to work in Jaén, and who lives just 50m down from the hotel (that's a real coincidence).

But before leaving Alcaudete as we had some time in the morning, we went to visit the Castillo Calatrava, or Castillo de Alcaudete. The castle has been well restored, but is not as extensive as the Fortaleza de la Mota.


In Jaén, we're staying at the Pension Florida 19. Because there are festivities in Jaén these days, and we booked late, there was not much available at reasonable rates.

At 6pm, we went to the office of the Asociación Jacobea de Jaén. It is open twice a week, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The team there is very proactive, very welcoming, and very friendly. We met Jacinto, the president of the Asociación.

He took us to the cathedral and along the way, showed us places all linked to the Camino.
By chance, we also met Carlos, who contributes to Gronze. He's also walking the Mozárabe from Jaén.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Days 23 and 24 - Jaén (??km)

Jacinto recommended a few places that were worthy of a must see list:
- the cathedral

- the Arab baths

- the Fuente del Lagarto

- the Salón Mudéjar

- the Santa Catalina castle


There is a bus line that is supposed to run up to the castle. It wasn't running today, as the Feria is on, and the timetable we received from the Tourism office suggests that it may only be on weekends.

So if you want to see the castle, plan to walk up. It's less than an hour for a non slow walker.

For fun, we recorded a Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/jaen-y-su-castillo-116363005

Just after the first wall (or what's left of it), turn left, don't just keep walking, distracted by the views, or you'll have to do what we did, cut across through the olive trees.
Also, the castle supervisor showed us a shortcut, which can be taken on the way up.

 

[jungleboy]

Also, the castle supervisor showed us a shortcut, which can be taken on the way up.

I wish I was a castle supervisor!

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 25 - Jaén to Martos (23.8km)

We're walking the Camino again!

A nice stage, with plenty of ups and downs (as in altitude, not attitude ). Leaving Jaén this morning from in front of the cathedral, we went past so many places Jacinto had shown us, each with a story linked to Santiago.

The Asociación Jacobea de Jaén has nice bas-relief arrows within the city

with a nice one as we leave


It being a Sunday, we didn't find a place to have desayuno until we reached Torredelcampo. Well, there was one, but very small and extremely crowded with men already having their morning drink. We had a GPX track downloaded from one of the official Camino websites, and in Torredelcampo, it showed a path along the arroyo. Not so on the ground, where arrows pointed us in a different direction from the church onwards. We arrived at a square where elders had congregated, and asked them where we could find breakfast. Down that street... And we had breakfast in the bar of the Torredelcampo Communist Party of Spain


The only other village we went through is Jamilena, which must have been pretty in the past (jamila is pretty in Arabic)


Most of the walk otherwise is through olive groves, which we quite like. Some of the olives are turning darker.

Martos has an albergue, at the Monasterio de la Santísima Trinidad. This is also where you can get a sello on a Sunday, when everything else is closed. It's behind one of the Ayuntamiento's buildings on the Plaza de la Constitución


We didn't know about the albergue, because the Jaén spur is not in the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada guide.

So we're staying at Hotel Ciudad de Martos. Very comfortable, but above the usual pilgrim price.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/jaen-martos-116499323

Edit: one regret, as we're leaving Torredelcampo, we noticed a sign about Visigoth burials. I would have loved to go and see them, but it would have added 5km to our day, so my darling suggested maybe another year...

 

[peregrina2000]

one regret, as we're leaving Torredelcampo, we noticed a sign about Visigoth burials. I would have loved to go and see them, but it would have added 5km to our day, so my darling suggested maybe another year...

I was wondering how VN could have missed these on our virtual planning thread, but then I realized we didn’t do anything with the Jaén spur!

 

[AJGuillaume]

I was wondering how VN could have missed these on our virtual planning thread, but then I realized we didn’t do anything with the Jaén spur!

Had we split our Jaén - Martos stage with a night in Torredelcampo, we could have visited this site.

However, without adequate and acceptable accommodation options in Torredelcampo, this was not an option.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 26 - Martos to Alcaudete (23.6km)

Leaving Martos was interesting this morning, with all the workers of a factory walking in the other direction.

Once we were out of Martos, we were back into olive grove territory. With rabbits scurrying across the road. The path was partly on a quiet sealed road, until we came to the Via Verde del aceite. It's an old railway line that was built in the 1800's and was dismantled in 1969. As such, it gave us a smooth and easy walk.
Part of it had nice spots of shade

but when the shade became scarcer, and the temperature went up, out came the umbrella with UV protection

The trail goes past an old station, where there are picnic tables. Layer, we enjoyed crossing old viaducts

From one of them, we could see a medieval bridge, although the little notice on the viaduct indicated that the fact there were roman sites in the vicinity may have possibly confused the dating of the bridge.

Unfortunately, we couldn't just keep following an easy path: we left the Via Verde to take a steep incline in the direction of Alcaudete. When the path levelled out, the approach of Alcaudete was not the best. We walked past a quarry, with cars driving along the dirt road at great speed, kicking up a lot of dust. The evidence of the usual human interaction with nature appeared, and the only thing that made us ignore the rubbish was a nice view of the Castillo Calatrava.


We're back at the Spa Rueda. They have pilgrim rates, as per the Asociación Jacobea guide, but you might find better value elsewhere. One thing I have to point out, is that some people might be surprised by the decor of the room (and this was similar for both stays, in two separate rooms)


Our day finished somewhat sadly: my darling heard that her sister's husband had passed away after a long illness. I might continue the Mozárabe on my own, while my darling gives support to her sister back in Switzerland. We'll see.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/martos-alcaudete-116602828

 

[dougfitz]

I'm sorry to hear about your loss. My thoughts are with you both.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 27 - Alcaudete to Luque (Baena) (20.4km)

Our friend Juan José, who we met in Tocón de Quéntar, sent us a message last night, alerting us to the fact that a heat wave was forecast.

I had a Plan B ready, and it turned out to be even better than I thought.

This stage is about 26km. At about 15km, after the Laguna del Salobral, I had identified a road that left the Camino and went in a south west direction towards the Carretera de Córdoba, the N-432. Not far from there, there was the old train station of Luque, and I thought it would be a convenient place for a taxi to come and pick us up. This would shave about 6km from the total distance, making this a 20km stage.

There was no shade for most of the walk, so the UV umbrella came out

Just after the Laguna del Salobral, the Camino crosses the Via Verde. I hadn't thought of it, but when we came to the decision point, there it was

So instead of walking along a road, which would not have been busy, we walked along the Via Verde, which had a slow incline towards the Antigua Estación de Luque, and the excellent restaurant Nicols

There, we had lunch, the place was packed

and then we called José María, one of the taxi drivers of Baena, who knows Nely, and whose number is listed in the Asociación Jacobea guide.

Despite the heat, the walk overall was pleasant, with nice views.

We did have to walk along the N-432 for a short while, but thankfully, the Camino then goes through the olive groves. When you get to the N-432, cross to the right hand side, as you will then need to exit from that side. The arrows are not very clear initially


We're staying two nights in Baena, as originally planned. We found an apartment in the old part of town, just under the castle.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/alcaudete-luque-116668526

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 28 - Baena

Rest day in Baena.

There is a castle, which has been heavily restored. Built in the 9th century by the Arabs, it was taken at the Reconquista. In the 16th century it was used as a palace by the Dukes of Baena. It was later abandoned, fell into disrepair. The Ayuntamiento used the site to store water for the city, which explains the 4 big circular structures in the castle

The restoration work started in 2005, and received, so we were told by the lady at the entrance, major architectural prizes.

Our friend Juan José who we had met in Tocón de Quéntar suggested we check out the Casa del Monte.

It houses offices and a restaurant. The food there was delicious, and the table mat was even better:

We spent the rest of the day wandering around, and enjoying the sights, as well as planning our next steps.

We'll be walking to Castro del Río tomorrow, then after tomorrow we're taking a bus to Córdoba, and a train from there to Málaga. We'll then both fly to Switzerland to support Rachel's sister.

While we were walking around and discussing plans, we noted that the Camino Mozárabe from Málaga joins the one from Almería in Baena. So I'll go and study @Bad Pilgrim 's notes on his recent walk on that Camino.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Day 29 - Baena to Castro del Río (22.8km)

We made our way through the old town of Baena, and briefly touched the new town to find the first arrow and mojón


Once we were out of the peri-urban area of Baena, we were back in olive country.


And then, after about 6.5km, we came to a sealed road (tarmac, bitumen)

We followed the A-3125 until we got to the river Guadajoz

and then we followed the CP-325 until we reached Castro del Río. Had we not had to walk on a road, it could have been quite bucolic. We would get close to the river every now and then, there was agricultural activity


Both roads were somewhat busy. We found a very effective way of keeping cars at a distance. Walking on the left hand side of the road, facing the traffic, we even had a few times where cars would slow to a stop because there was oncoming traffic. I have a fluorescent yellow safety vest. Instead of wearing it, I held it at arm's length and waved it


Castro del Río has an albergue, two pensions, as listed in the Asociación Jacobea guide. We're staying at A Ka La Sole. It's comfortable, but a little bit out of town. So is the other pension, which is around the corner. But there's a restaurant right next doors, and they serve breakfast early.

Not that we'll need an early breakfast tomorrow, unfortunately. We're taking the 10:25 bus to Córdoba, and then a train to Málaga. After tomorrow, we're flying to Switzerland to support Rachel's sister.

We'll be back on the Camino Mozárabe some time in the future. I'll try and do a summary of our walk in the next few days.

Our Wikiloc tracks: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/baena-castro-del-rio-116825474

Buen Camino!

 

[dougfitz]

It was wonderful reading your posts and sharing your journey. I really enjoyed following your progress and the images you shared. Thank you for sharing.

 

[AJGuillaume]

It's unlikely we'll resume our Camino Mozárabe this year. So I thought I might just give an overview of our walk, and summarise from the point of view of slow walkers distance challenged pilgrims.

We walked just over 375km in 22 days, with an additional 7 rest days. We started in Almería, and in Alcaudete, took a bus to Jaén, adding the two stages from Jaén to the total.

Here are the distances, as well as our plan B options:
1. Almería - Rioja 16km
2. Rioja - Santa Fe de Mondújar 8.7km, our shortest stage
3. Santa Fe de Mondújar - Santa Cruz de Marchena 13.4km
4. Santa Cruz de Marchena - Nacimiento 11.3km
5. Nacimiento - Abla 17.5km
6. Abla - Huéneja 20.6km. We had hoped to stop at La Huertezuela, but the only accommodation there was unavailable. Had we been able to book a room, it would have been a 16km stage. Our plan B was to take a taxi to Fiñana, which would have reduced our total by about 8.5km. We also had a plan C, which was suggested by the owner of the accommodation in La Huertezuela: if we needed help, he would drive us the last 5km into Huéneja. It turns out that my darling didn't need any of these plans.
7. Huéneja - La Calahorra 15km
8. La Calahorra - Cogollos de Guadix 19.3km
9. Cogollos de Guadix - Guadix 12.8km
10. Guadix - Los Baños de Graena 13.2km
11. Los Baños - La Peza 11km
12. La Peza - Tocón de Quéntar 13km
13. Tocón - Quéntar 15.9km
14. Quéntar - Granada 18.6km
15. (Granada) Maracena - Pinos Puente 2.1km + 14.4km. We walked a bit in the old part of Granada, then took the tram to Maracena.
16. Pinos Puente - Moclín 15.5km
17. Moclín - Alcalá la Real 23.7km. Our plan B was to call a taxi after 15.5km, where the Camino crosses the N-432
18. Alcalá la Real - Alcaudete 23.2km. Our plan B was to take a taxi from Alcalá la Real to Puertollano, taking off about 5km.
Note: we took a ride to Jaén from Alcaudete.
19. Jaén - Martos 23.8km. Our plan B was to take a taxi to the turn off from the Carretera de Córdoba, just opposite the beer factory. That would have shortened the walk by 4km.
20. Martos - Alcaudete 23.6km. Our plan B was to take a taxi to the old Estación Vado Jaén. That would have really shortened our day, by 10km.
21. Alcaudete - Luque (Baena) 20.4km. This stage is normally 26km, and we used our plan B. Just after the Laguna del Salobral, where the Camino crosses the Via Verde, we switched to the Via Verde, to the Antigua Estación de Luque and called a taxi.
22. Baena - Castro del Río 22.8km. Our plan B was to take a taxi from Baena for a few km.

Between Almería and Granada, with the exception of Abla to Huéneja, it was fairly easy to walk short stages under 20km. It was much harder after Granada to do so. But by then, my darling had developed stamina and her Camino legs.

If we were to skip an entire stage, it would be from Granada to Pinos Puente.

We enjoyed the Camino Mozárabe, in particular the part between Almería and Granada.

We'll return, possibly walking from Málaga to resume our Camino Mozárabe in Baena.

Thank you for all the encouragement and the comments!

Buen Camino!

 

[dougfitz]

Thank you for all the encouragement and the comments!

And thank you for sharing this journey with us.

 

[Bernice M]

“It's unlikely we'll resume our Camino Mozárabe this year. So I thought I might just give an overview of our walk, and summarise from the point of view of slow walkers distance challenged pilgrims.”


Thank you so much AJ for your newsy and helpful comments, especially distances and places to stay. I shall follow your footsteps in May 2023.

 

[islandwalker]

And also thank you for including info about village tiendas. It is so helpful to know which places have food available.

I'm hoping things work out as well as they can for your extended family.

 

[AJGuillaume]

We're back on the Camino Mozárabe!
Well, actually we have been back on the Mozárabe since 26 April.

We nearly walked the same stages as we did last September, with the following changes:

Day 3, we walked to Albolodúy. Leaving Santa Fe de Mondújar, we were in a bubble of 15 pilgrims, and the Asociación asked us to walk to Albolodúy, as the one in Santa Cruz de Marchena was full.
Day 4, we walked from Albolodúy to Nacimiento. Last year, as the river level was high, we only walked to the road, and Santiago from Nacimiento picked us up. This year, there was nearly no flow, so we walked all the way.
Day 5, we walked from Nacimiento to Abrucena, to the new albergue. It's only 2km away from Abla, and is a brand new albergue.
Day 6, we walked from Abrucena to Huéneja, a shorter distance than from Abla to Huéneja. We missed an arrow somewhere before Fiñana, but as the town sits on a hill, it was easy to get there without getting lost.
Day 7, we walked from Huéneja to Alquife. Lacho picked us up in the village square, and took us to the shop. His albergue is very comfortable.
Day 8, we walked from Alquife to Cogollos de Guadix, and stayed in the new hotel. Luxury at pilgrim rates. Able bodied pilgrims will skip and go straight to Guadix.
Day 15, we skipped this stage, took the 325 bus from Granada to Pinos Puente, and started walking from there to Moclín.
We didn't go to Jaén.

I am proud of my darling who walked all the way from Alcaudete to Baena. 25.8km, and we didn't need my plan B.

So we walked from Almería to Baena in 18 days.

In Baena, we took a bus and a train via Córdoba, and came down to Málaga, where we now have a base, with family and grandsons.

Our plan is to walk the third part of the Camino Mozárabe, from Málaga to Baena, and then resume our walk to Mérida.

I'm documenting our walk on FindPenguins, so I'm not sure how much I'll be able to report here on a day to day basis, and may only do so every 2nd or 3rd day. But I'll definitely try to give a summary at the end.

Buen Camino to all who are currently walking!

 

[dougfitz]

It's good to hear that you have resumed your pilgrimage.

 

[AJGuillaume]

I think it's time I updated this live thread

Málaga to Baena Camino Mozárabe

Day 1: we didn't fancy walking through the streets of Málaga suburbs, so we took bus 21 to Junta de Los Caminos. We then walked to Almogía, 13.4km. A few steep climbs to get over the hills surrounding Málaga. The albergue in Almogía is basic but good.

Day 2: Almogía to Villanueva de la Concepción, 20.5km. A very nice stage if the weather is nice, a dreadful one with slippery clay and mud if it has been raining. There is a nice albergue, but we preferred to stay at the Apartamentos Villa Torcal.

Day 3: Vva de la Concepción to Antequera, 18km. If you only do one stage from Málaga, this is it. The Camino takes you over El Torcal, with amazing limestone rock formations. We stayed two nights, so didn't experience the albergue. Worth visiting: the dolmen site, the Alcazaba.

Day 4: Antequera to Cartaojal, 14.6km. The second half of the day's walk is nice. No accommodation in Cartaojal, but just over 1km out of town is a casa rural. Nice, comfortable, and excellent breakfast. They'll also cook an evening meal if you request it. Able bodied pilgrims might continue to Villanueva de Algaidas.

Day 5: Cartaojal to Villanueva de Algaidas, 11.9km. A nice stage in dry weather, somewhat slippery with wet clay in rainy weather. The albergue is in the middle of town, has everything needed, including WiFi! The Policía Local has the keys, very helpful.

Day 6: Vva de Algaidas to Encinas Reales, 17.2km. The Camino goes through Cuevas Bajas, which has an albergue that we didn't see as we were continuing on. Both towns have all that is needed, tiendas, bars. The Encinas Reales albergue is extremely basic. Keys are obtained from the Policía Local, who insisted that it was not donativo, that it was free, completely free.

Day 7: Encinas Reales to Lucena, 21.6km.
It is a very nice stage until you get to the industrial area of Lucena, which is only the last few km. If it has been raining, you have to ford the Río Anzur, ankle deep. Recommended accommodation in Lucena is Pensión Sara. Gonzalo has pilgrim rates, and comfortable rooms. Includes breakfast.

Day 8: Lucena to Cabrá, 14.4km. A very easy and nice stage, along a Via Verde. Before entering Cabra, you can opt to continue on the Vía Verde, or go into town. María José at Pensión Guerrero is another pilgrim focussed person, offering comfortable rooms at pilgrim rates.

Day 9: Cabrá to Doña Mencía, 16km. The Vía Verde continues, so it's a very nice walk. Bridges, viaducts, and even a tunnel! Doña Mencía is a beautiful town. Must visit: the 15th century castle, and the flower street, Calle Juanita la Larga. Eat at Casa Morejón.

Day 10: Doña Mencía to Baena, a short 10km. A beautiful walk, and the approach to Baena is much nicer than the one from Alcaudete. There's an albergue in Doña Mencía, but we got a special rate at the Hotel Mencía Subbética.

It took us 10 days, able bodied faster walking pilgrims could do it in much less.

I have attached the guide that was sent to me by the Asociación Jacobea de Málaga. They meet every Tuesday after 7pm at Calle República Argentina 9 in Málaga.

The only important error in the guide is the number to call in Encinas Reales. It should be: 629 718 918.

I'll update this thread hopefully again.

 

[gittiharre]

Day 0 - Almería

My darling and I are slow walkers, distance challenged, and we're not purists. We thought we would share our experience and hopefully give some information about our walk on the Mozárabe to other peregrin@s who may be like us.

We arrived two days ago in Almería, as we intended to see a bit of the city, and we did well. There is a lot to see, and the Alcazaba is definitely a must see for history and old stones aficionados.

Another reason we came early, is to meet Nely, who is a member of the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada. She has a wealth of information, and she will be our point of contact, should anything untoward happen, until we arrive in Granada at least, and maybe beyond.

Many other illustrious members of this forum have written about the Mozárabe, so the purpose of our commentary will be to give you the perspective of two slow walking pilgrims.

We'll try to give you information about where we stayed, and any difficulties we encountered. I'll share Wikiloc tracks, and if you wish, you can follow us on FindPenguins.

In Almería, as we were staying more than the usual one night (we stayed 3), we chose to book a private apartment. It is situated in Calle Estrella, which is a great location: 10 minutes walk to the Alcazaba, 5 minutes walk to the cathedral.

Here are some snapshots of our stay in Almería, with one of us with Nely (on the right).
View attachment 133367View attachment 133368View attachment 133369View attachment 133370

I will follow with interest! This is very much on my list.

 

[gittiharre]

I will follow with interest! This is very much on my list.

How do I find you on FindPenguins?

 

[Anna&Michael]

I think it's time I updated this live thread

Málaga to Baena Camino Mozárabe

Day 1: we didn't fancy walking through the streets of Málaga suburbs, so we took bus 21 to Junta de Los Caminos. We then walked to Almogía, 13.4km. A few steep climbs to get over the hills surrounding Málaga. The albergue in Almogía is basic but good.

Day 2: Almogía to Villanueva de la Concepción, 20.5km. A very nice stage if the weather is nice, a dreadful one with slippery clay and mud if it has been raining. There is a nice albergue, but we preferred to stay at the Apartamentos Villa Torcal.

Day 3: Vva de la Concepción to Antequera, 18km. If you only do one stage from Málaga, this is it. The Camino takes you over El Torcal, with amazing limestone rock formations. We stayed two nights, so didn't experience the albergue. Worth visiting: the dolmen site, the Alcazaba.

Day 4: Antequera to Cartaojal, 14.6km. The second half of the day's walk is nice. No accommodation in Cartaojal, but just over 1km out of town is a casa rural. Nice, comfortable, and excellent breakfast. They'll also cook an evening meal if you request it. Able bodied pilgrims might continue to Villanueva de Algaidas.

Day 5: Cartaojal to Villanueva de Algaidas, 11.9km. A nice stage in dry weather, somewhat slippery with wet clay in rainy weather. The albergue is in the middle of town, has everything needed, including WiFi! The Policía Local has the keys, very helpful.

Day 6: Vva de Algaidas to Encinas Reales, 17.2km. The Camino goes through Cuevas Bajas, which has an albergue that we didn't see as we were continuing on. Both towns have all that is needed, tiendas, bars. The Encinas Reales albergue is extremely basic. Keys are obtained from the Policía Local, who insisted that it was not donativo, that it was free, completely free.

Day 7: Encinas Reales to Lucena, 21.6km.
It is a very nice stage until you get to the industrial area of Lucena, which is only the last few km. If it has been raining, you have to ford the Río Anzur, ankle deep. Recommended accommodation in Lucena is Pensión Sara. Gonzalo has pilgrim rates, and comfortable rooms. Includes breakfast.

Day 8: Lucena to Cabrá, 14.4km. A very easy and nice stage, along a Via Verde. Before entering Cabra, you can opt to continue on the Vía Verde, or go into town. María José at Pensión Guerrero is another pilgrim focussed person, offering comfortable rooms at pilgrim rates.

Day 9: Cabrá to Doña Mencía, 16km. The Vía Verde continues, so it's a very nice walk. Bridges, viaducts, and even a tunnel! Doña Mencía is a beautiful town. Must visit: the 15th century castle, and the flower street, Calle Juanita la Larga. Eat at Casa Morejón.

Day 10: Doña Mencía to Baena, a short 10km. A beautiful walk, and the approach to Baena is much nicer than the one from Alcaudete. There's an albergue in Doña Mencía, but we got a special rate at the Hotel Mencía Subbética.

It took us 10 days, able bodied faster walking pilgrims could do it in much less.

I have attached the guide that was sent to me by the Asociación Jacobea de Málaga. They meet every Tuesday after 7pm at Calle República Argentina 9 in Málaga.

The only important error in the guide is the number to call in Encinas Reales. It should be: 629 718 918.

I'll update this thread hopefully again.

Thanks for your story from the trail. You give a great account of your experience and it was a pleasure to be reminded of so many of the places along this lovely route. Buen Camino