LIVE from the Camino Slow Camino de Madrid

[Laurie Sanantone]

Started my Camino from Tres Cantos this morning. If you’re using the Buen Camino app to navigate out of Tres Cantos, the map did something weird after crossing the highway. But the yellow arrows will steer you right.
Be aware if you pick up your credential at the Church of Santiago and John the Baptist, you need your passport. They let me get mine without, but it was more complicated.
Glad I walked only as far as Colmenar today, still felt some jet lag. Met up with @walkingman06, but he was headed for Manzanares. Gran Hotel Chiscon has a 40€ pilgrim rate, breakfast included.
Manzanares tomorrow.

 

[Stripey Socks]

Started my Camino from Tres Cantos this morning. If you’re using the Buen Camino app to navigate out of Tres Cantos, the map did something weird after crossing the highway. But the yellow arrows will steer you right.
Be aware if you pick up your credential at the Church of Santiago and John the Baptist, you need your passport. They let me get mine without, but it was more complicated.
Glad I walked only as far as Colmenar today, still felt some jet lag. Met up with @walkingman06, but he was headed for Manzanares. Gran Hotel Chiscon has a 40€ pilgrim rate.
Manzanares tomorrow.

Thanks for the update. I set off next week. Mel

 

[Herndon]

Good info. I always get my credential ahead of time but I am behind the power curve and will need to pick up next Sunday or Monday before heading out on Tuesday from the Cathedral. Lodging is prebooked the first two nights in Madrid and the first three days of hiking. The rest we will play by ear and by ear I mean paying attention to what those ahead are posting! Thanks ahead of time.

 

[walkingman06]

I was in Manzanares last night and stayed at the Hostel La Pedrisa. Nice place with a good bar and a private terrace for guests with a great view of the mountains. €25 I believe and I roomed with another pilgrim from Quebec.
Ray & Rosa are walking the Primitivo so their place was not available.

 

[MikeJS]

Just planning my trip in Sept. Expect to walk to Colmenar on day one then to Cercedilla and then to Segovia. Will book those first few days and then wing it from thereon.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I’m at La Pedriza in Manzanares tonight and I second @walkingman06, it’s a place with a cool vibe . I reserved a bed, but I’m the only one in an eight bunk room tonight. Nice town, huge stork nests with the proud parents clacking away. Cercedilla tomorrow.
Ivan at Bar Añe reconfirmed by WhatsApp there’s no place to stay there. I’ll probably walk a short day from Segovia to Los Huertos.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Nice walking today, Manzanares - Mataelpino - Navacerrada- Cercedilla. There’s a bar in the plaza in Mataelpino for coffee, and you can get a sello in the Ayuntamiento across the plaza. I’ve been following arrows as well as using the Buen Camino app. I use the app when I haven’t seen any arrows for a while, and that’s working well.
At the Lafonda Real restaurant outside Cercedilla, you’ll turn left on a paved road. Watch for yellow arrows, indicating a turn left off the road. Don’t keep following the paved road as indicated by the Buen Camino app like I did. It’s not a good idea
Makes for a longer walk.

 

[Skinnybiker]

Looking forward to your report on tomorrow's hike; I took the cycle route to Segovia a couple of weeks ago and it was interesting, perhaps the best day of my 12 day tour. Richard

 

[walkingman06]

I’m in Segovia today seeing the sights, however I’ve had a situation come up back home so I will need to return to the States. At least I got the toughest part (I presume) of the Camino de Madrid completed. I’ll plan to pick up from here at another time. Buen Camino.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Sorry to hear that, @walkingman06, but congrats on making it over the big hill! Safe travels to you!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Left Hostel Maya this morning at 7:15. (Maya has fallen on hard times. Restaurant is closed, but the room was comfy. The municipal music and dance school is across the street. Charming at 7:00, 8:00… they specialize in drumming… 9:00… is that flamenco or tap?… Peace finally reigned around 10:15.) Hostel Longinos might be worth a try.
Reached Puerto de Fuenfria just before 11:00. Tough climbing, but so beautiful it takes your mind off the effort. Temps were between 46 and 52F, perfect for the walk.
I followed the Santiago arrows until just past the open pasture and cattle, then turned off to Valsain.
Good lunch at Las Palomas. Booked OYÓ La Chata back in February for only 25.20€ on Berking, breakfast included. Small but comfy room, nice lounge. No complaints!!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Walked to Segovia yesterday via San Ildefonso. No flowers blooming in the gardens and no fountains fountaining, but a lovely diversion. Opted to walk along the road instead of the countryside route due to a Charlie horse in my hip.

Hospedaje San Francisco by the aqueduct is clean and comfortable. Something near Plaza Mayor would also be good, closer to the cathedral and Alcázar. Toured both this morning.

Deutchebank ATM on Calle Acuaducto did not charge me an ATM fee.

Short walk to Los Huertos tomorrow, called to confirm albergue is open (no reservations).

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Thanks, what are the temperatures during the day at the moment,

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

From Madrid to Cercedilla, high 60s to low 70s F, I was walking in shorts. Up to Puerta Fuenfria and down to Valsain, high 40s to mid 50s. Warm sun, chilly wind. Today in Segovia it was quite chilly, never over 54F and cold wind. Dry except for a bit of rain this afternoon. Forecast 38F tonight.

The usual springtime variation I guess.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

It was indeed 38F this morning when I left Segovia, but thanks to the inexpensive down vest I bought at the bazaar yesterday I was quite comfortable.

Since the albergue in Valseca is closed, the route is now marked directly to Los Huertos if you want to skip Valseca.

Staying at the municipal in Los Huertos tonight. Señora Úrsula is a warm and kind hospitalera, and there is a bar here in town that doesn’t even show up on Google Maps. So it’s a fine stop if you don’t want to walk all the way to Santa Maria from Segovia. Just ask for Señora Ursula’s house, close by the albergue and town hall. The number listed on Gronze is her number.

 

[BruceNZ]

Hi all .. we are 4 Kiwis on the Madrid and can absolutely confirm that Los Huertos albergue is a gem that should not be missed. New (ish?) Super Clean, wifi and extras ! And Ursula is an angel. The bar opens at 6pm is great plus we got supplies from vege and bread vans around 1130. A misconception is that the bar n albergue are attached but they are not. Ane on the other hand was closed n had nothing. Support Los Huertos !!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

After you leave Añe, you can turn left through the countryside, or stay on the paved road a bit longer before you turn off to the left. The road is narrow, with no shoulder, so the diversion through the country is probably for safety.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

There’s really no place to stay in Santa Maria de Real, unless you luck into a room at Rincón Naïf, so Hostal Avanto just outside of town is it. Seems people have found it difficult to reserve here. You have to call direct — I called Friday from Segovia for a Sunday reservation, my call was answered and my reservation was accepted. Now that I’m here, I see that it is a very busy place, so just keep trying until you get through.

Señor Julio, who I believe is the owner, is really a very gracious host. Sunday lunchtime is extremely busy, but he seated me and made sure I was happy with my meal and accommodations. Room was 28€, Sunday lunch 15€.

 

[BruceNZ]

Confirm the above.. also Avanto about 1.5km out of town.. as u enter town take the last left hand road before the main road. It goes behind the Repsol gas station.. follow dirt road and it seems to veer away from the main road but there is a track back to Avanto sitting all by itself. Safer.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Short day to Nava, staying at Hotel Frey Sebastian. It’s ok, but terrible food…

I’ll be at the Villeguillo albergue tomorrow. I verified the keys will be at the bar. Google had them closed Tuesdays, but the mayor said it’s Mondays they’re closed. Relief!

 

[Benita Serfontein]

I started the Camino de Madrid on Friday.
Generally I follow the arrows or Camino markers and if unsure I use the Buen Camino apps map with route indicator.
I am glad that I heeded the warnings on this thread to take enough water with me daily as I've only seen fuentes with water in Madrid and today on the mountain.
Had a good day walking from the Iglesia in Madrid to Tres Cantos. I stayed with Nieves in her apartment. Booked through AirBnB and had a very good experience there.
On Saturday I walked to Manazanares el Real and stayed at Hostal La Pedriza. All good. Ray & Rosa were unfortunately not available. They are on the Primitivo. Got breakfast at 07:00 on Sunday morning at the Panaria opposite the church. Great place!
Walked from Manzanares to Cercedilla on Sunday. Stayed at the Albergue Villa Castora. Had a 2 bed room with private bathroom and balcony all to myself for €19.80. Breakfast is only served at 08:30, but you can ask for a picnic breakfast to take with if you leave early. The albergue in Las Dehesas is another possibility if you want to shorten the ascent!
Accommodation in Segovia was very scarce when I booked as there is an international puppet show on in the city for 2 weeks. Staying in Hostal San Jaime, €30 - single room with shared bathroom.
Hope to get a bar open tomorrow morning after 07:00 for coffee or else on the way to Santa Maria as I have a booking at Hostal Avanto. Will be a long day. Does Hostal Avanto also serve food on arrival in the late afternoon/early evening? Or would I have to go back into town for a meal?
So far, so good on the Camino de Madrid.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Benita, on Sunday Avanto served until 5:00 and then again after 8:00. Weekdays may be different.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I’m at the Villeguillo albergue. Contrary to Gronze and Google Map, the bar here is closed on Mondays, not Tuesdays. They open at 9:00 am, close from 4:00-6:00, reopen 6:00 and then close when they close.

My experience with navigating on this Camino: There are some differences in route markings that can be confusing. The path markings of the Amigos of the Camino de Madrid may vary from those of the government of Castile y Leon, and from some of the old yellow arrows and markers, and from the Buen Camino app. So you’ll find places like the one below, exiting Nava de La Asunción.

I’ve found that I sometimes need to double-check yellow arrows against Buen Camino, or as a last resort, Google Maps. Just to say, navigating this Camino can be confusing, and I’m not sure how well I would do without a cell phone. But be assured you’ll reach your destination in the end.

 

[Benita Serfontein]

We had a good stay at Hostal Avanto after a very long stage from Segovia to Santa Maria.
Sleeping in the albergue in Coca tonight. It really need a proper cleaning as there are cobwebs everywhere and even the bathroom can use a proper cleaning. No toilet paper either.
I hope the albergue in Alcazaren will be somewhat better than this.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Benita, the albergue in Alcazaren is very nice! Bar Real was closed today, but you can pick up the key at Bar Hogar or at the city office on the square. And the food at Bar Hogar is phenomenal— lovely hosts will treat you right.

Edit: The bar closest to the albergue, Bar Albino, does not keep a key for the albergue (nor do they serve food). Keys are at Bar Real, Bar Hogar and the Ayuntamiento.

 

[Benita Serfontein]

Benita, the albergue in Alcazaren is very nice! Bar Real was closed today, but you can pick up the key at Bar Hogar or at the city office on the square. And the food at Bar Hogar is phenomenal— lovely hosts will treat you right.

Thanks, Laurie! This is good to know. Looking forward to it! We had a good Menu del Dia at lunchtime today at Bar la Muralla here in Coca where we picked up the key to the albergue. And the castle is really impressive!

 

[Benita Serfontein]

Benita, the albergue in Alcazaren is very nice! Bar Real was closed today, but you can pick up the key at Bar Hogar or at the city office on the square. And the food at Bar Hogar is phenomenal— lovely hosts will treat you right.

Hi Laurie
I can second your opinion on the albergue in Alcazarén & the hospitality we experienced at Bar Hogar.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I’m in Simancas tonight at the Posada del Arte. Highly recommended, an old house with great charm, tended by Sra. Consuela, for 35€. Good restaurants in town, too — a little break from albergues for a night.

I’ll stay in Cigunuelas tomorrow — confirmed the albergue is open, keys at the bar — so I can visit the Visigothic church in Wamba on Sunday (I hope!).

 

[Benita Serfontein]

We are 4 pilgrims staying at the Albergue in Puente Duoro tonight. Was warmly received by Paul Garland. Charming place! We had an excellent Menu del Dia at Restaurante Mirarrios on the corner before reaching the albergue for €14.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Benita, I believe you’ll pass me tomorrow along the way! Enjoy your walk.

 

[Benita Serfontein]

Benita, I believe you’ll pass me tomorrow along the way! Enjoy your walk.

Most probably yes! But one of our group will also stop at Cigunuelas tomorrow. We will press on to Peñaflor de Hornija however. Hope to meet you along the way!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Note: The keys for the Cigunuela albergue are at the bar next to the casa rural “Inn of the Hunter” (Refugio del Cazador) near the square/Ayuntamiento. The bar owner was willing to feed a hungry pilgrim pretty much any time of day.

 

[Herndon]

Short day to Nava, staying at Hotel Frey Sebastian. It’s ok, but terrible food…

I’ll be at the Villeguillo albergue tomorrow. I verified the keys will be at the bar. Google had them closed Tuesdays, but the mayor said it’s Mondays they’re closed. Relief!

 

[Herndon]

Appreciate the continued updates. In Santa Maria at Hostal Avano tonight. Will stay at at the Casa de la Paca in Coca tomorrow night. Will stay at the Albergue in Alacazaren on Monday. Been staying at hotels and haven't seen one other Peregrino on the road over the last five days. Is that pretty much everybody's experience walking now or are we just in a lull? Thanks!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I’ve seen 12 pilgrims in 14 days. Five were before Fuenfria; four were today! I suspect that’s just how the Madrid is.

 

[Herndon]

We will keep looking.. we started on Tuesday, so we thought that most folks might be starting on the weekends.

 

[Benita Serfontein]

We had a good stay at Peñaflor de Hornija... the town and the albergue. The bar to the left of rhe albergue served a good meal and the atmosphere was very festive.
The bar in Castromonte and Valverde de Campos had good coffee.
Staying at Hostal Duque de Osuna in Medina de Rioseco tonight. Close to all the noteworthy sights and good restaurants/bars just down the street.

 

[Herndon]

Saw our first other Pilgrim today. Day 6!

On the Santa Maria to Coca stage nothing was open as far as services till we got to Nava de la Asuncion. Punto de Encuentro was the first place that was open and we didnt miss the opportunity to actually get something midday after the last two stages were devoid of services. Great smaller bocadillos. Owner was patient with my pitiful Spanish and as we finished came over to our table with a sello and map of the area as well as a small yellow arrow for each of us. Nice touch and very friendly.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Peñaflor: The phone number listed on Gronze (679 1405 32) is correct, just call Paqui when you arrive and she will come to give you a key (2:00-9:30 pm). Lots of beds, kitchen, place to hang clothes. Bar Hornija was closed for a funeral, but Bar Avenida was open on Sunday for a good meal (closed Mondays).

Castromonte: Albergue looked very nice, but the Bar With No Name in town seems to sell only baked goods along with drinks. Look for the lottery sign. Closed Wednesdays.


Valverde: Bar is closed Mondays.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Wamba: If you can arrange to go through Wamba on Saturday/Sunday, I highly recommend a visit to the Iglesia de Santa Maria. The church dates from the 10th and 12th centuries, Romanesque and Mozárabe. Beautiful murals and an ossuary. It’s being considered for World Heritage status. See it now and avoid the crowds.

Guided tours in Spanish are regularly offered Saturdays and Sundays from 11-1:30 and 5-7:30. Other times may be arranged by calling 679 142 730. No charge for peregrinos.

I believe the guide close the doors after we gathered inside just after 11 o’clock, so I don’t think you can just wander freely apart from the tour.

It’s a special place.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Medina de Rioseco: After reading comments about the albergue on Gronze, I opted for a hotel. Lots of choices, restaurants, shops and bars.

Next day’s walk along the Canal de Castilla is lovely. Took my time and I’m in the small albergue in the church in Tamariz. It’s humble but provides everything you need, with warm hospitality from Ivan and Alex. Ivan will open the bar for pilgrims but is trying to stay closed during the week until maybe July (new baby). Gronze phone listing is correct, Ivan responds to WhatsApp messages.

 

[Benita Serfontein]

I completed the Camino de Madrid today.
Had a lovely, warm welcome at the albergues in Cuenca de Campos and Santervás de Campos the last 2 days. Hospitaleros took great care of us and both albergues can be recommended. Had good rooms, many beds and good bathrooms.

The bar in Cuenca de Campos is closed on Mondays and the small shop just around the corner from the albergue is only open till 13:00. You can cook in the kitchen of the albergue.

There is a bar in Santervás which serves coffee & drinks. The hospitaleros will cook dinner and everyone have a communal meal together.

I met 4 other pilgrims along the way and had a lovely Camino in their company.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Well done, Benita! Will you continue on to Santiago?

I’m in the Villalon albergue today, one of the best equipped and cleanest albergues I can remember anywhere (8€ plus donativo breakfast). Paco and Pilar, the hospitaleros here, open at 3:00. Lunch available in town.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Santervas this evening, another 5-star albergue, donativo, with a delicious dinner provided by hospitaleros Gabriela and Norman. The Centro Cultural bar is open for drinks. The Iglesia San Gervasio is stunning.

And I saw about a dozen Great Bustards just before town! You’ll see large bird droppings on the path— duck or goose sized — if they’re nearby. Keep an eye out!!

 

[Benita Serfontein]

Well done, Benita! Will you continue on to Santiago?

I’m in the Villalon albergue today, one of the best equipped and cleanest albergues I can remember anywhere (8€ plus donativo breakfast). Paco and Pilar, the hospitaleros here, open at 3:00. Lunch available in town.

Hi Laurie
Yes... I am in Mansilla de las Mulas tonight.
Will continue on the Camino Francés to Ponferrada and from there on the Camino Invierno to Santiago.
The Camino de Madrid was all that I could have wished for!
Enjoy the quiet and the open spaces while you are still there!

 

[DTCamino]

Medina de Rioseco: After reading comments about the albergue on Gronze, I opted for a hotel. Lots of choices, restaurants, shops and bars.

Next day’s walk along the Canal de Castilla is lovely. Took my time and I’m in the small albergue in the church in Tamariz. It’s humble but provides everything you need, with warm hospitality from Ivan and Alex. Ivan will open the bar for pilgrims but is trying to stay closed during the week until maybe July (new baby). Gronze phone listing is correct, Ivan responds to WhatsApp messages.

Did you stay at Hospedium Vittoria Colonna? I’m booked there in September.

 

[BruceNZ]

Hi we stayed there and it is great. Sort of thru town but close to cafes and the canal out..and the best cafe for breakfast

 

[MikeJS]

Thank you for all of these posts. They are very useful for those of us planning to walk the Madrid later this year.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Did you stay at Hospedium Vittoria Colonna? I’m booked there in September.

Yes, it was fine. Good location as @BruceNZ says. Cafe and resto closed Monday. They charged me only 4€ for a good breakfast. Best of all, there’s an auto washateria just up the street!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

So I arrived in Sahagun yesterday and received my completion certificate at the Santuario de La Virgen Peregrina on the way into town. Stayed at Hostal San Juan, nice place with breakfast included. Trained to Leon today for two nights before I return to Madrid and home.

Although I’m sure it will take me some time to process this Camino, I can say that I’m very happy I chose to walk the Madrid. I’m not sure it’s for newbie pilgrims, due to the relative lack of infrastructure (compared to the Frances or Portuguese, for example). If you don’t have basic Spanish to contact albergues and so on, you might find yourself stuck for a place to stay (like Añe). You might have to spend more for accommodations where there’s no Albergue; or you might spend the night in a more Spartan Albergue than you’d like.

But you can tailor stages on the Madrid to walk 20-25k/day, or 12-20 like I did. Spending time in Madrid getting over your jetlag, and then walking out of the city, is fantastic. The walk to and over the Guadarramas — Roman road and all — and spending time visiting Segovia are special memories. You might not get your cafe con leche just when you want it, but you get to spend some time in small bars and cafes with local folks and get a glimpse of life in the small pueblos. You can do some online research to learn the stories of the towns you’re passing through (tiny Tamariz has quite a history), and the sweep of Spanish (human) history: the Celts, the Visigoths, the Inquisition, Reconquista…

If you find the Meseta boring, and if you don’t like pine trees, this isn’t the Camino for you. If you want a lot of social interaction with other pilgrims, you won’t find it on the Madrid. If you’re looking for solitude, contemplation or a change in perspective, think about the Madrid. Tour the church in Wamba, and watch for the bustards around Santervas. Enough … sigh.

Buen Camino, peregrinos!

 

[DTCamino]

So I arrived in Sahagun yesterday and received my completion certificate at the Santuario de La Virgen Peregrina on the way into town. Stayed at Hostal San Juan, nice place with breakfast included. Trained to Leon today for two nights before I return to Madrid and home.

Although I’m sure it will take me some time to process this Camino, I can say that I’m very happy I chose to walk the Madrid. I’m not sure it’s for newbie pilgrims, due to the relative lack of infrastructure (compared to the Frances or Portuguese, for example). If you don’t have basic Spanish to contact albergues and so on, you might find yourself stuck for a place to stay (like Añe). You might have to spend more for accommodations where there’s no Albergue; or you might spend the night in a more Spartan Albergue than you’d like.

But you can tailor stages on the Madrid to walk 20-25k/day, or 12-20 like I did. Spending time in Madrid getting over your jetlag, and then walking out of the city, is fantastic. The walk to and over the Guadarramas — Roman road and all — and spending time visiting Segovia are special memories. You might not get your cafe con leche just when you want it, but you get to spend some time in small bars and cafes with local folks and get a glimpse of life in the small pueblos. You can do some online research to learn the stories of the towns you’re passing through (tiny Tamariz has quite a history), and the sweep of Spanish (human) history: the Celts, the Visigoths, the Inquisition, Reconquista…

If you find the Meseta boring, and if you don’t like pine trees, this isn’t the Camino for you. If you want a lot of social interaction with other pilgrims, you won’t find it on the Madrid. If you’re looking for solitude, contemplation or a change in perspective, think about the Madrid. Tour the church in Wamba, and watch for the bustards around Santervas. Enough … sigh.

Buen Camino, peregrinos!

Muchas Gracias, peregrina!

 

[mla1]

I’ve seen 12 pilgrims in 14 days. Five were before Fuenfria; four were today! I suspect that’s just how the Madrid is.

Somehow I missed a lot of this thread! In April I saw just one other person walking and saw 3 people cycling. And one pilgrim passed me walking the other direction.

 

[mla1]

Medina de Rioseco: After reading comments about the albergue on Gronze, I opted for a hotel. Lots of choices, restaurants, shops and bars.

It's true that Gronze does make it seem like the albergue is not that great. But it was totally fine! If someone is wondering about staying there, don't worry! I was greeted by the mother in law (I think) of the hospitalero -- very welcoming person! Someone from the Association also stopped by. It was good!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I guess this speaks to @DoughnutAZ’s thread about whether we should offer reviews on the forum. The Gronze reviews discouraged me, yet folks who have also been there report good experiences. Likewise, one poster cautioned against the albergue in Tamariz, and while I did find it the most humble place I’ve stayed, I was touched by the efforts of Ivan (who has contracted with the town to manage the bar and albergue) to help pilgrims who pass through town.

I will be a bit more careful in the future about making negative comments, especially if I lack personal experience, and even then… Will it be helpful to those who follow, or not?

 

[David Tallan]

I guess this speaks to @DoughnutAZ’s thread about whether we should offer reviews on the forum. The Gronze reviews discouraged me, yet folks who have also been there report good experiences. Likewise, one poster cautioned against the albergue in Tamariz, and while I did find it the most humble place I’ve stayed, I was touched by the efforts of Ivan (who has contracted with the town to manage the bar and albergue) to help pilgrims who pass through town.

I will be a bit more careful in the future about making negative comments, especially if I lack personal experience, and even then… Will it be helpful to those who follow, or not?

We slept in the albergue in Medina de Rioseco. The hospitalera was very nice and the albergue was nice and clean. The only things that would have improved it would have been wifi and more toilet paper. Certainly there have been worse on our Camino de Madrid.

 

[dick bird]

We slept in the albergue in Medina de Rioseco.

Is that the one just out of town in the monastery? If so, good that it is open as it has had an on-off history of late. It´s a nice little town. We took the route along the old Canal de Castilla next morning. Very atmospheric. Hope you don´t mind me gatecrashing with a couple of photos.



In a day or two you´ll be at Grajal de Campos. The albergue is in the converted stables of the Renaissance palace above it. If you go to the end of the albergue and up a little flight of stairs, you´ll find a door. If it is unlocked (as it was when we stayed there), you can gain unofficial, out of hours access to the palace above which at 10 o´clock at night is deliciously spooky.

 

[David Tallan]

Is that the one just out of town in the monastery? If so, good that it is open as it has had an on-off history of late. It´s a nice little town. We took the route along the old Canal de Castilla next morning. Very atmospheric. Hope you don´t mind me gatecrashing with a couple of photos.

View attachment 149859View attachment 149860

In a day or two you´ll be at Grajal de Campos. The albergue is in the converted stables of the Renaissance palace above it. If you go to the end of the albergue and up a little flight of stairs, you´ll find a door. If it is unlocked (as it was when we stayed there), you can gain unofficial, out of hours access to the palace above which at 10 o´clock at night is deliciously spooky.

That was the place we stayed at Medina de Rioseco. The canal route was really pretty but I'm not sure if the views were worth the mosquitoes.

Today we are headed to Santervás. The question is, do I go from there to Sahagún, which isn't a long stage, or make it two really short stages and stay at Grajal de Campos, which comes highly recommended.

 

[dick bird]

Well you did call your thread ´Slow Camino´. You might like this. I´m not really religious but I like this. Michael Leunig, by the way, is well-known in Australia as a cartoonist. I have bolded the relevant line.

Pilgrim’s Prayer

Dear God,

We pray for another way of being:
another way of knowing.

Across the difficult terrain of our existence
we have attempted to build a highway
and in so doing have lost our footpath.
God lead us to our footpath:
Lead us there where in simplicity
we may move at the speed of natural creatures
and feel the earth's love beneath our feet.
Lead us there where step-by-step we may feel
the movement of creation in our hearts.
And lead us there where side-by-side
we may feel the embrace of the common soul.
Nothing can be loved at speed.

God lead us to the slow path; to the joyous insights
of the pilgrim; another way of knowing: another way of being.

Amen.

Michael Leunig

 

[mla1]

Today we are headed to Santervás. The question is, do I go from there to Sahagún, which isn't a long stage, or make it two really short stages and stay at Grajal de Campos, which comes highly recommended.

The albergue in Grajal is definitely cool. I stopped there planning to stay. Checked in. Wandered around the village. But then it felt like it would be a long evening there on my own in a huge, kind of dim dormitory. So late afternoon I just packed up and walked to Sahagun, where a fab dinner was waiting! And so many peregrinos!