UPDATE; Day 1 - Camino Primitivo 28km - Nice not so insane stage today, leaving Oviedo and heading to Grado. I actually decided to add an extra 5k to the trip by leaving Oviedo in the wrong direction but that’s just me being dumb and another story.
Anyways, it was a steady stream of ascents and descents through green wooded paths and along a river, but all mild. Still hot and humid though.
About a quarter of the way through the stage, having observed my “Peregrino” company, I came to the conclusion “they are all dudes.” I have harbored the thought In the past that maybe I’d find a soulmate on the trail, apparently it wouldn’t be this trip. Whatever, I’m getting in shape and it’s so fun, who cares.
So walking around a bend in the road, I needed to pee. It being a not so travelled road and there being fewer Peregrinos around than usual (it’s the Primitivo) I just went without thinking much about it.
As I was zipping up I heard a feminine voice say “hola”. I turned and looked and there was the dark long raven black hair, deep eyes, olive skin, and sculpted cheeks but still soft features of a beautiful Spanish woman. Most importantly, she was “age appropriate.”
On the Camino, for an early forties male, age appropriate is rare. It’s my impression that the people who do this are either in their 20’s or 50’s+ (people with time). My guess for her is mid thirties.
She walked past me briskly. She had trekking poles and a reasonable pack. She walked fast.
Now, on more than one occasion I’ve “raced a Spaniard”. It’s not just me, trust me, they are racing too.
I chose to continue at my usual pace, and I think she was startled that I was keeping up. I trailed her for about a km about 5 meters behind. Being fast, she was probably not used to someone keeping up with her. She might have been weirded out and decided to take a stop at a small church off the side of the road to see if I was a creep, or to lose me.
I walked past without even looking at her and continued along the way.
So I continued along and was almost passed by a middle aged Spanish man with a “bolsa chica” (small backpack because he is having someone else carry his stuff). I despise the middle aged men with small bags who try to race me. I picked it up just a little to wear down his stamina and his heart. He never passed.
About 15 minutes later I heard the tap tap tap of walking sticks and glanced over my shoulder. It was her. She paced me, about 5 feet behind, for a half km or so.
I eventually spoke to her in my infantile Spanish. She’s from Leon. At one point, she asked me (in Spanish because she didn’t speak a lick of English), “Is this your first Camino?”
Now I have vowed never to ask that question, because all it really is a quest for the recipient to reciprocate the question at which point one can brag about their own experience. I chuckled, and replied “nueve” (9). Turns out for her it was six!
We walked along each at a similar pace, with her ahead slightly. She stopped to pet a horse. I moo’d at the cows. Not much interaction.
For the next 10k I was about 20 meters behind her. She wasn’t slowing down to talk to me, maybe she was even trying to get rid of me, or maybe she was playing hard to get.
So we get into Grado and I decide to stop for a coke and a rest. I figure, if she is interested, at some point she’ll turn around and notice I am gone. If she isn’t interested than at least I have my rest and a coke.
So I hang out at this bar for about 1/2 hour, and then bolsa chica man walks up. He says to me, excitedly, “are you going to the Alburgue (or where is the alburgue?)” I told him “I don’t know, I am not staying there.” He looked so startled. I said “tengo un hotel”... he was completely confused. He said, “oh so you are going further?”
Not wanting to explain I just said “si”.
Nightmare scenario: She is actually interested and they end up at the same alburgue and they talk about the fast walker from California and he tells her “he went further.” So she decides to wake up early and try to catch up and in reality just separates us further (and she’s fast so I’d never see her again.)
Most likely scenario: she’s just not interested and tomorrow is just another day on the Camino. I’m cool with that.
Tomorrow, if we do meet and speak, I will ask her name.