SdC to Finisterre then Muxia, or to Muxia then Finisterre ?

[hampshire!tim]

I have scanned the forum, and apologies if I have missed a relevant thread (if so, please just point me to it).

Planning to start from SdC on 20th November

I am not sure whether to walk SdC --> Finisterre --> Muxia and then bus back to SdC
Or to go SdC --> Muxia --> Finisterre and then bus back to SdC

Are there pro's and con's ?

Is the zero km marker at Finisterre ?

Also I couldn't see quickly an indication of which albergues/hotels will be open in late November, but am still searching other websites.

Any comments very gratefully received.

Thank you

 

[KinkyOne]

Hola!

The "famous" zero km marker is at Cabo Finisterre, maybe few meters from the lighthouse itself. But there's "zero km" at Muxia also
I can't really say what's the difference, but if you finish (after Muxia) in Fisterra then you'll have much better bus connections to get back to SdC.
OTOH the view approaching the Atlantic is so much more attractive on the trail to Finisterre! Speaking in my name of course.
Fisterra is a bit more touristy and some say that Muxia is more transcendental, quiet, ... Anyway as I understood from your post in another thread you'll be walking the Camino quite soon or am I mistaken here? In high season previously mentioned might be right (about quietness at Muxia etc.) but I guess during winter it's all the same.

Ultreia!

 

[hampshire!tim]

Hola KinkyOne, thank you for the advice.
Yes, walking quite soon 20th Nov - 23rd Nov.
I'm expecting it to be quiet, and walking alone, but that's fine - last 2 caminos in Nov13 and Dec14 still had a few walkers.

 

[wayfarer]

I walked SdC - Finisterre - Muxia and in my opinion Muxia is a much nicer place to finish the Camino. I found it less commercialised and it was lovely to sit and contemplate at the little chapel at the headland in Muxia. There are also some great restaurants at the waterfront.
Whatever you decide have a Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Tim,
I have done it both ways, and though I like Muxia better than Finisterre, it feels better to me to end in Finisterre, but that may be silly. One little factor to consider is that it's easier to get back to Santiago from Finisterre than from Muxia, many more buses. One other thing that might make a difference is that if you go first to Muxia and then to Finisterre, you will miss the long ocean walk into Finisterre, since you'll be coming into Finisterre from the more inland route from Muxia. I particularly like the town and albergue in Dumbria, which means going first to Muxia and then Finisterre.

Here are a couple of other threads that might help you.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...h-which-one-first-and-last.25465/#post-201265

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ia-or-fisterra-which-route.13419/#post-106345

 

[Magwood]

I've walked both options. I would definitely go to Finisterre first - the approach is such a treat.

 

[hampshire!tim]

Thank you Wayfarer, Peregrina2000 and Magwood

I also like the "emotional" thought of finishing in Finisterre, yet also want to relish the chapel at Muxia.

Cake and eat ! (there speaks the diabetic in me)
Alternatively, forever indecisive.

Starting to look like I will have to do both routes .... oooh err ! Now I have the mad thought to look at the maps and work out if it is viable to design a route finishing in Finisterre but also enjoying the approach to it.

Nothing like making things easy for myself, hey ?!

 

[hampshire!tim]

Here are a couple of other threads that might help you.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...h-which-one-first-and-last.25465/#post-201265

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ia-or-fisterra-which-route.13419/#post-106345

Why on earth didn't I see those ? Wood, trees, overwhelm.

Thank you !

 

[dcorrea951]

I have volunteered in the Pilgrim Office. PLEASE be aware that if you DO NOT go to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago first you will NOT get a Compestela from the Cathedral. It is their thought that your Camino ends at the Cathedral. You can get the other Compestelas after, but not before Santiago.

Buen Camino

 

[hampshire!tim]

I have volunteered in the Pilgrim Office. PLEASE be aware that if you DO NOT go to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago first you will NOT get a Compestela from the Cathedral. It is their thought that your Camino ends at the Cathedral. You can get the other Compestelas after, but not before Santiago.

Thank you for the advice, but a tad confused (sorry, late here and maybe not thinking clearly).

I thought that I might get a compostela at Finisterre or Muxia (depending on which I finished at), but did not expect one from the Cathedral when returning there (because by bus). Is your advice suggesting that walking SdC to Finisterre (or Muxia) would still allow a compostela from the cathedral ?

I'm not concerned about a compostela from any location having previously done the Frances and the Ingles and got compostelas for each. But they are certainly more than a "nice to have", so worth knowing what the situation is on this, in case it influences the decision.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am not sure I understand the message either. It is true that you cannot get a compostela for walking from Santiago to Finisterre (though you can if you walk from Finisterre through Muxia and to Santiago), but I don't believe that arriving in Santiago, walking to Finisterre, and then coming back to the pilgrims' office would disqualify you from the Compostela if your walk into Santiago has met the 100km standard. But maybe I'm missing something here.

 

[Staggerlee]

Hi Tim,
I sympathise with your dilemma.
If pushed, I would have to say Fisterra first because the approach from Olveiroa is so memorable.
On the other hand, I appreciate that Fisterra is seen as the traditional end of the camino.
How about walking to Muxia, spending some time there, then taking a taxi (don't think there's a bus) back to Hospital and walking to Fisterra?
It's all good.
Hope you get lucky with the weather.
Cheers
Andy

 

[hampshire!tim]

How about walking to Muxia, spending some time there, then taking a taxi (don't think there's a bus) back to Hospital and walking to Fisterra?

Nice idea - will look into this - thank you.

I'm even toying with the idea of a full loop - SdC to Muxia to Finisterre to SdC. But not sure that looking backwards at the beautiful approach to Finisterre will be anywhere near as memorable. And I'm taking notice of the warnings about difficult of signage 'in reverse'. Decisions, decisions ....

 

[KinkyOne]

Nice idea - will look into this - thank you.

I'm even toying with the idea of a full loop - SdC to Muxia to Finisterre to SdC. But not sure that looking backwards at the beautiful approach to Finisterre will be anywhere near as memorable. And I'm taking notice of the warnings about difficult of signage 'in reverse'. Decisions, decisions ....

In this case I would suggest first going to Fisterra - you can't beat the sight approaching the sea over the Cee and further on to Fisterra.
On the way to Muxia there is reportedly very nice stop at Lires (http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-as-eiras) and from Muxia inland you left the sea much quicker than on the Fisterra side of the peninsula

 

[Tincatinker]

Hi Tim, I've walked both circuits: SdC - Muxia - Fisterra and contrariwise. For spectacle the route to Fisterra first probably has it. The view of the sea from the moors above Cee is beautiful and must have been astonishing to pilgrims who had walked from central Europe and further. It would be their first ever glimpse of the ocean and is a great moment to share in our history. Finishing in the quiet charm of Muxia is lovely and you will avoid that intrusive coach party that really needs to do their thing just when you were trying to do yours. That said either way round is great. As Eiras in Lires is a great stopping point and the coastal route from Lires to Fisterra is very pretty. Way-marking either which way was pretty good in our experience and the usual bunch of angels & devils will put you right if you stray.

There is a 'Fisterrana' compostella available from the Xunta Albergue in Fisterra and a 'Muxiana' from the Albergue in Muxia and if you complete the triangle SdC - M/F - SdC you can (probably) claim another Compo from the Pilgrims Office. You will have walked more than 100k to Santiago.

Buen camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So glad to hear that one can do Fisterra first and that the view is great. I say this because I bused to Fisterra with a friend who met me for a long weekend in Santiago and I was sooooo disapointed. It was on a Sunday and there kust have been close to a dozen tour buses by the lighthouse. The whole thing felt very touristy, including the conch schells and dries puffer fish sold at the kiosk.

Now, as you walk up, to visit the local church: it's Christ on the cross is wearing a skirt! That was a first! Also, further up, you will see some cement constructions on a hillside, facing the see: this was supposed to be the towns new cemetary. Designed by a well known Spanish architect, but not being used because the villagers want to be burried with their ancesters. I cannot think of a lovelier final resting place.

Ah, and then there's Muxia, its magical boulders, its history, the Prestige. A bit of reading on it helps understand it better. And to finish a Camino meditating on the boulders, facing the sea at sunset... Perfection.

 

[hampshire!tim]

Thanks everyone for the advice - very helpful.
Think I am going to go Finisterre first then Muxia, then maybe walk back to SdC, undecided just yet about the return.

As I hadn't seen this site before, a small shout-out for http://www.urcamino.com - very nice simple but comprehensive site for planning your camino with distance, altitude and accommodation info

 

[wayfarer]

Good choice Tim IMO.
Thanks for the link.
Buen Camino.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Thanks everyone for the advice - very helpful.
Think I am going to go Finisterre first then Muxia, then maybe walk back to SdC, undecided just yet about the return.

As I hadn't seen this site before, a small shout-out for http://www.urcamino.com - very nice simple but comprehensive site for planning your camino with distance, altitude and accommodation info

God choice! I did SdC-Fisterra-Muxía-SdC in 2013 and walking from Muxía to SdC wasn't so hard. I used stored GPS-log once or twice when I was a little bit unsure of the way but most if the time it was quite clear where to go. I got my self a compostela after that route

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thanks everyone for the advice - very helpful.
Think I am going to go Finisterre first then Muxia, then maybe walk back to SdC, undecided just yet about the return.

As I hadn't seen this site before, a small shout-out for http://www.urcamino.com - very nice simple but comprehensive site for planning your camino with distance, altitude and accommodation info

Urcamino offers a different though very valuable info: water spots and suggestions for distances based on wants. Check it out!