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LIVE from the Camino Sarria to Santiago winter Camino

J Willhaus

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
It was 4 F (-15 C) when I caught the shuttle to the airport at 4 am. Hope its warmer in Spain. Shuttle from Laramie, WY, to Denver. Flight to Denver, then flight to Madrid where I will meet my 10 students at our hotel. M., the other professor, and I should be on the same flights with 3 students. The others will make their own way to the meeting point.

Will take a flight from to Santiago tomorrow and we have us tickets from the Santiago airport to Sarria.

The course is a self-care elective called Pilgrimage for the Mind, Body, and Soul. Nursing is a stressful profession these days and nursing school is especially stressful so I hope the 9 undergraduates and 1 graduate student will be able use this time to slow down and care better for themselves.

Stay tuned for further details.
 
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Nursing is a stressful profession these days and nursing school is especially stressful so I hope the 9 undergraduates and 1 graduate student will be able use this time to slow down and care better for themselves.
I walked a part of my Camino with a wonderful young Dr. from Germany. We are keeping in touch since and couple of days ago along with Good Wishes for Xmas & New Year she quipped that as much as she truly loves her job it became "horrible" as shortages of personnel and supplies are constant cause of stress.

I guess we all can "Camino-decompress" at any given time of our lives.....
 
Nursing is a stressful profession these days and nursing school is especially stressful so I hope the 9 undergraduates and 1 graduate student will be able use this time to slow down and care better for themselves.
As a non-professional caregiver myself, I very well know how stressful caregiving is. The camino has been my “self care” antidote for years now. Wishing you and all those future nurses a wonderful camino.

And btw, for any forum member who is interested in participating in a private conversation group “Caregivers on the Camino”, please send me a PM, and I will add you to our list. We are a small group, but share a very strong bond.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
It's been a long day. Five of us were on the same plane together. After getting boarding passes for tomorrow we made our way to the hotel, had a quick nap, and we're now waiting on the rest of the group to gather. One student won't make the trip so we are now 11.

While I am waiting on some more to arrive, M. took an interested few to the Retiro Park to see the Christmas lights. It will be the first trip on the city bus and Metro for our rural-based students.


Tomorrow we fly early to Santiago and bus to Sarria. I am tired, but this will pass when we get to the Camino and are just able to go our own pace.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Waiting for our bus at Santiago now. Busy airport in Madrid due to holidays, but a literal ghost town here in Santiago at the airport. Nothing like summer but our 7:15 plane was full.. All but one student made it by Midnight to our hotel. That 10th student won't join us this year, but there is another U of Wyoming student trailing along with us. I don't make her arrangements, but do let her know our plans so she can mirror if she wants.

We are all tired, but should be in Sarria by about 1 pm staying at The Oasis albergue. Tentatively planning to cook a communal meal for ourselves and anyone else who may be around.
 
It was 4 F (-15 C) when I caught the shuttle to the airport at 4 am. Hope its warmer in Spain. Shuttle from Laramie, WY, to Denver. Flight to Denver, then flight to Madrid where I will meet my 10 students at our hotel. M., the other professor, and I should be on the same flights with 3 students. The others will make their own way to the meeting point.

Will take a flight from to Santiago tomorrow and we have us tickets from the Santiago airport to Sarria.

The course is a self-care elective called Pilgrimage for the Mind, Body, and Soul. Nursing is a stressful profession these days and nursing school is especially stressful so I hope the 9 undergraduates and 1 graduate student will be able use this time to slow down and care better for themselves.

Stay tuned for further details.
@J Wilhaus I think this elective is very interesting. Do they have to write a paper/essay about their experience on the Camino as part of the course?
Buen Camino and Happy New Year!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Best luck for your winter camino!
I walked from Faro, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela December 2010. And further from Compostela to Lourdes, France in January-February 2011. Loved every meter!
 
@J Wilhaus I think this elective is very interesting. Do they have to write a paper/essay about their experience on the Camino as part of the course?
Buen Camino and Happy New Year!
I have one grad student who has to do a grad paper. Other assignments include a pre and post holistic health assessment and posting support using either examples from Dave Whitson's book that we using as one of the texts or another scholarly source. Each student has to lead a discussion on a chosen topic with the group. Today we had 2. One was on bedbugs and the other was about pilgrim traditions old and new

Students also make notes along the way on five reflections. The first one today was about their feelings as we prepared for pilgrimage. So far its a good group and everyone has been doing what is asked.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
We made it to Sarria. We are at the Oasis Albergue. It is a lovely albergue. The yard is nice.The students and I had a typical pilgrim meal of green salad, lentil soup, and bread.

I was a little put off by the hospitalera/owner. She checked us in and then left with instruction to call if we wanted to use the laundry. We did call and she said she would be here in 30 minutes and did not show. Then 2 pilgrims from Korea arrived and asked me to help them call her. She said she would be over shortly at 6 pm and didn't show up until after 8 pm. I told them I would just pick out a bunk if I were them so they did. They also had reservations.

Again, it is a lovely albergue, but I am disappointed in her response. Perhaps I am too critical due to my volunteer work as a hospitalera.

A student just asked me to look at a "bedbug". I think it was some black lint, but she thought it had been moving. It didn't look like a bed bug, I didn't see any other signs, but we will know tomorrow I guess. She was the one who gave the bedbug talk so was pretty anxious.) A mattress leaning against the wall had tiny smear of what looked like blood, but It didn't look very fresh and the mattress was not on the bed, but against a wall. No black marks, smell, husks, etc. I hope it is just a little hypervigilence.

Tomorrow we are out at 8:30. Looks like rain starting at 11:30 or so. We plan to walk to the Xunta Albergue at Ferreiros and eat supper at Mirallos. Hope both are open. If not we will walk on to Portomarin where we have reservations the following night.

Ps: The hospitalera just came and told me her mother fell today and broke her hip and femur, her elbow and arm and had gash to the head which had to be repaired which is why she only now just came back. So I understand what kept her away and I told her I would pray for her mother in Santiago.
 
I have one grad student who has to do a grad paper. Other assignments include a pre and post holistic health assessment and posting support using either examples from Dave Whitson's book that we using as one of the texts or another scholarly source. Each student has to lead a discussion on a chosen topic with the group. Today we had 2. One was on bedbugs and the other was about pilgrim traditions old and new

Students also make notes along the way on five reflections. The first one today was about their feelings as we prepared for pilgrimage. So far its a good group and everyone has been doing what is asked.
Hmmm, interesting. This is the first time I've seen something that links the Camino to an intellectual and academic exercise. IMHO the reflections can only be beneficial. Perhaps you can encourage them to post their reflections in this forum if they are so inclined. It may benefit other prospective and veteran pilgrims as well. More power to you and your students. Buen Camino and God bless!
 
Ps: The hospitalera just came and told me her mother fell today and broke her hip and femur, her elbow and arm and had gash to the head which had to be repaired which is why she only now just came back. So I understand what kept her away and I told her I would pray for her mother in Santiago.
Ah yes, the power of prayer. I can vouch for this on a personal level. Will be praying for you and your students as well as the hospitalera and her mother. Buen Camino and God bless! Happy New Year too since you'll be spending it on the Camino🥰
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
We are at the Xunta Albergue de Peregrinos Ferreiros this evening. It was good walking weather although it rained on and off all morning. The students divided up by walking speed and the first bunch arrived and went th the bar in Mirallos to wait for the rest of us. I was the sweeper and arrived about 1:30.

The albergue was open with a note that the hospitalero would be by later to check us in. It's only the 11 of us and the one extra friend roommate in the bunk room for 19 people. I have stayed here before and doubt there will be many others.

We had a little bedbug issue last night wth the 8 women in the upstairs bunk room. This morning one had killed a really big juicy one on the sheets. Two others had bites so before they unpacked for the day here all 8 ran their stuff through a good hot dryer cycle.

Because we'd had our bedbug talk the day before, they were all calm. No one was freaked out although it was annoying. Education is a good thing.

Not much New Years Eve action here in Ferreiros, but we'll go down and eat at Mirallos at 7 pm. They close at 9 tonight. Tomorrow we are walking to Portomarin. We have reservations.
 
Hmmm, interesting. This is the first time I've seen something that links the Camino to an intellectual and academic exercise. IMHO the reflections can only be beneficial. Perhaps you can encourage them to post their reflections in this forum if they are so inclined. It may benefit other prospective and veteran pilgrims as well. More power to you and your students. Buen Camino and God bless!
Yes, this is a formal Study Abroad class for 2 credits so there has to be some "meat" to the "study" part. The students share their reflections only with me. Reflections are sometimes quite personal and our FERPA education laws in the US prohibit me from sharing. As far as I know none of them are on the forum either. I have mentioned it, but no one has inquired further about to join or access.
 
We are at the Xunta Albergue de Peregrinos Ferreiros this evening. It was good walking weather although it rained on and off all morning. The students divided up by walking speed and the first bunch arrived and went th the bar in Mirallos to wait for the rest of us. I was the sweeper and arrived about 1:30.

The albergue was open with a note that the hospitalero would be by later to check us in. It's only the 11 of us and the one extra friend roommate in the bunk room for 19 people. I have stayed here before and doubt there will be many others.

We had a little bedbug issue last night wth the 8 women in the upstairs bunk room. This morning one had killed a really big juicy one on the sheets. Two others had bites so before they unpacked for the day here all 8 ran their stuff through a good hot dryer cycle.

Because we'd had our bedbug talk the day before, they were all calm. No one was freaked out although it was annoying. Education is a good thing.

Not much New Years Eve action here in Ferreiros, but we'll go down and eat at Mirallos at 7 pm. They close at 9 tonight. Tomorrow we are walking to Portomarin. We have reservations.
I am SO glad that you are once again at the municipal albergue in Ferreiros and also able to eat at Mirallos. May you all have a good dinner. Perhaps you will hear the bells ring tonight at midnight when the new year arrives.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Hmmm, interesting. This is the first time I've seen something that links the Camino to an intellectual and academic exercise. IMHO the reflections can only be beneficial. Perhaps you can encourage them to post their reflections in this forum if they are so inclined. It may benefit other prospective and veteran pilgrims as well. More power to you and your students. Buen Camino and God bless!
Students have been walking the Camino for a long time. Gitlitz and Davidson are known for taking university students on Camino in the 1970s, which was one of the things that led to their excellent The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook (never miss an opportunity to plug it). I think we've had at least one of their former students on this Forum. They popped up in a thread about pilgrimage before the relatively recent rise in popularity.
 
I am SO glad that you are once again at the municipal albergue in Ferreiros and also able to eat at Mirallos. May you all have a good dinner. Perhaps you will hear the bells ring tonight at midnight when the new year arrives.
We had the best time at Mirallos tonight. They served us early and gave us grapes to take back the albergue. We were given a firm lesson on how to eat them. Dong, one grape, dong grape number two, etc.

We laughed and laughed and the never ending appetite of 20 year olds for food was finally quelled although I took a good ribbing because I don't eat dessert and didn't order any. They wanted me to get something that they could try above and beyond their choices so it was duly noted that I was not to do THAT again.

Mirallos said they would open for breakfast at 8:30 so of course the gang is already talking about that. They are all gushing about the winter Camino as we have the albergue to ourselves and the restaurant, too. It is wonderful to experience this tired old section of the Camino through their eyes. BTW, they love the Xunta albergue and are asking if we will stay in more like them.

We are staying at Ultreia tomorrow night because I could not confirm if the Portmarin Xunta albergue is open. The hospitalera at Ultreia confirmed with WhatsApp that we were coming and let us know a restaurant that WILL be open on New Years Day.

A great first day on the Camino despite the bedbug incident. They are bonding and meeting the few others who are here. It is wonderful to see.
 
We had the best time at Mirallos tonight. They served us early and gave us grapes to take back the albergue. We were given a firm lesson on how to eat them. Dong, one grape, dong grape number two, etc.

We laughed and laughed and the never ending appetite of 20 year olds for food was finally quelled although I took a good ribbing because I don't eat dessert and didn't order any. They wanted me to get something that they could try above and beyond their choices so it was duly noted that I was not to do THAT again.

Mirallos said they would open for breakfast at 8:30 so of course the gang is already talking about that. They are all gushing about the winter Camino as we have the albergue to ourselves and the restaurant, too. It is wonderful to experience this tired old section of the Camino through their eyes. BTW, they love the Xunta albergue and are asking if we will stay in more like them.

We are staying at Ultreia tomorrow night because I could not confirm if the Portmarin Xunta albergue is open. The hospitalera at Ultreia confirmed with WhatsApp that we were coming and let us know a restaurant that WILL be open on New Years Day.

A great first day on the Camino despite the bedbug incident. They are bonding and meeting the few others who are here. It is wonderful to see.
Happy new year to ye all. Great account...
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
We had the best time at Mirallos tonight. They served us early and gave us grapes to take back the albergue. We were given a firm lesson on how to eat them. Dong, one grape, dong grape number two, etc.

We laughed and laughed and the never ending appetite of 20 year olds for food was finally quelled although I took a good ribbing because I don't eat dessert and didn't order any. They wanted me to get something that they could try above and beyond their choices so it was duly noted that I was not to do THAT again.

Mirallos said they would open for breakfast at 8:30 so of course the gang is already talking about that. They are all gushing about the winter Camino as we have the albergue to ourselves and the restaurant, too. It is wonderful to experience this tired old section of the Camino through their eyes. BTW, they love the Xunta albergue and are asking if we will stay in more like them.

We are staying at Ultreia tomorrow night because I could not confirm if the Portmarin Xunta albergue is open. The hospitalera at Ultreia confirmed with WhatsApp that we were coming and let us know a restaurant that WILL be open on New Years Day.

A great first day on the Camino despite the bedbug incident. They are bonding and meeting the few others who are here. It is wonderful to see.
Thanks for the update. That bed bug and grape stories are funny🤣
Out of interest, are there enough of other peregrinos on the trail at this time? (You mentioned some Koreans at your first albergue.)
The reason I ask is because based on my experience with traveling in a group, the group members tend to stick together most of the time and while there's nothing wrong with that, there is less opportunity to get to know other people from outside the group. During our recent Camino, we had the opportunity to travel with a group but my wife and I decided to go on our own and I think it made it easier for us to meet and get to know other peregrinos on the trail. On the other hand, if there are less of other peregrinos on the trail at this time, this will be irrelevant. Buen Camino and Happy New Year!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Out of interest, are there enough of other peregrinos on the trail at this time? (You mentioned some Koreans at your first albergue.)
I set off from SJPDP on 2 January last year. For much of the way there were about 12-15 pilgrims walking each stage. With the limited accommodation choices at that time of year we tended to meet up frequently. About 1/3 or more of those I met on that particular Camino were Korean.
 
Only saw 2 pilgrims in Sarria. Saw two more men yesterday, but no one staying where we are. Yes, difficult to meet others, but so far no one else to meet.

We are in the Plaza Mayor at Portomarin. 7 of us here so far. The albergue is not yet open until noon. Mirallos was not open at 8:30 as the students hoped but a group waited thinking they might open. Hopefully they gave up and will be along soon. M. Is the sweeper today. I walked on with the faster group although I am sure I slowed them down some.
 
Checked in to Albergue Ultreia. Lovely family operation. Papa checked us in. Sister gave me my receipt. Owner will be along later. They are having a special dinner from 2 to 4:30 so they were happy to check us in at noon. Lovely back terrace. Good kitchen. 2 toilets, 2 showers and not separated by gender, but that is fine as the cabinets are private

After we checked in, I checked out the restaurant and store situation. And by the way their Xunta albergue is open. We would have liked to have stayed there to save 4 euros per night, but I could not confirm it. I sent Micheal at @wisepilgrim a note to change his app status.

The restaurant where we will eat later seems good. I have had a coffee and a wine there and let them know it will be 12 for supper at 7 pm. The grocery store was open so people did stock up!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Just a note that several people have really appreciated that we a class of nurses and nursing students studying self care. The sister of the albergue owner is a physician and she said she never had the opportunity for a self-care course while studying in Santiago and an Italian pilgrim we met today said the same. At the restaurant last night we got a lot of respect, too. So far the students have been extremely positive and several taking me aside to thank me personally. It does feel good.

Downside: It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow and it is all up hill to Santa Cruz. The Castro side trip is liable to be muddy. May need to rethink and go to the albergue, then backtrack without packs for those who want to stop there. Hoping O Labrador is open for meals. @mspath put us on to it last summer and it is right next door to the albergue.
 
Good evening meal at Pons Minea last night. It was the only place open so very busy. The cook and waiter were there from open to close and served hot food all day until 9 pm so unusual. The waiter was a man from Africa and spoke good English (his first language) but was a bit math challenged and would have shorted himself had I not pointed it out when we paid the bill. Very tasty fries. The fish was apparently good. I had Caldo Gallego, bacon, eggs. And fries. The students insisted I get my dessert so they could split it.

One student with a gluten allergy is thrilled she can eat Santiago Torte and we made certain there was no gluten in it just to be safe. The box from the bakery clearly said no gluten.

Met a pilgrim this morning who started in Somport and he is also a hospitalero volunteer like me. We chatted about San Miguel in Estella where we had both served in the past. Students are getting up now so more later.
 
Walked to Hospital de Cruz. Very windy. Spitting rain then really raining. One group jetted off and was here by 11 am. The door was open so they came in and set up shop, showering, etc. The cleaning man came and yelled at them thinking they were holdovers from last night. Two girls speak Spanish and explained they had just walked from Portomarin so he let them stay. The hospitalera came at 1 pm and yelled some more, but in the end she said it was fine and let it stay. I asked everyone to please, please not go in tomorrow before 1 pm.

We also had a discussion about bunk room etiquette such taking your conversations outside the bunk room. We shared the dorm with two girls from Korea last night who started in SJPDP. I am sure it was a shock to have a bunch of enthusiastic nursing students buzzing with energy in the same room.

Sadly, O Labrador is closed. There is another place to get bocadillos nearby, but he just closed as well. A couple of the girls asked him and he said me might reopen, but otherwise people are just going to have share our own snacks tonight I think.

Some did stop at the Castro (Iron Age hill town) but it was raining, muddy, windy, and a little dangerous. Tomorrow's target is Palas del Rey.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Good Menu del Dia for 12 euros a plate. Our hospitalera called to see when they could take a group of 12. We took a cab the 1 km because it was raining hard. A variety of home cooked food we had fabada (excellent), then platters of tortilla, Raxo with fries, pork chops, and a plate of chicken tenders we didn't ask for, but got eaten. Some had coffee and others Santiago cake for dessert. We had to walk back in the rain and I am sure that some will be annoyed with me for it, the cabbie was going off shift and could not return to our remote location.

We're drying out now. Doing laundry. Chit chatting. Hope it is dryer tomorrow.
 
Good Menu del Dia for 12 euros a plate. Our hospitalera called to see when they could take a group of 12. We took a cab the 1 km because it was raining hard. A variety of home cooked food we had fabada (excellent), then platters of tortilla, Raxo with fries, pork chops, and a plate of chicken tenders we didn't ask for, but got eaten. Some had coffee and others Santiago cake for dessert. We had to walk back in the rain and I am sure that some will be annoyed with me for it, the cabbie was going off shift and could not return to our remote location.

We're drying out now. Doing laundry. Chit chatting. Hope it is dryer tomorrow.
Oh, Janet, I do admire your stamina. That is something you have worked on, and it shows.
I am now toasty warm, but earlier I was freezing cold, and it was wet, wet, wet. And: I had forgotten my key this morning. 😈
It is resolved, but just letting you know I can genuinely empathise!
Following with great interest. Your students also need a little applause, tell them, won't you? 👣👣👣👣👣
 
We had to walk back in the rain and I am sure that some will be annoyed with me for it
Whatever for?! They could have skipped dinner, or arranged for different weather! 😂 You are being an excellent guide, and don't want to make their experience "perfect". That wouldn't be a Camino.

I am enjoying your daily posts!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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You are being an excellent guide, and don't want to make their experience "perfect". That wouldn't be a Camino.
Indeed. They will laugh at that memory. Later.

Your posts are wonderful, Janet - thank you for sharing your camino with all of us. Well done. Your prep work is really showing!
 
They were over it by bedtime. I sprung for the 3 euros to run all the coats, etc in the industrial-sized dryer. Smiles all around.

No significant rain in the forecast today. We may try to go to the Pembre Castle today. I think tha Vilar de Donas may not be open which was the original plan. I will check first. We can save the Castle for Melide if it is.

So much evening laughter and fun that even crabby old me feels joy in the journey so far. M. and I are a good team. She is far younger, but is learning quickly.

We had the whole albergue to ourselves again last night, but probably won't from here on out so another Camino etiquette lesson today about removing all your stuff from the bunk room in one or two quick trips and packing in the common room. We'll go over it again this morning. I had an instant coffee, some cheese and a cookie from the plane ride, but would love a real coffee if the roadside stand is open on our way out.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Well the 7% chance of rain was 100 percent for at least a couple miles. That really fine misty stinging rain blowing against the side of my poncho and then it stopped before we got to the top of the hill above Palas del Rey.

We are in the Municipal which is quite lovely. Met a US pilgrim who is slowly making her way to Santiago from Sarria and she enjoyed dinner with us (or I hope she enjoyed it.)

We took a cab to Castillo de Pembre and the students were enthralled. The keeper of the castle gave us a summary in English. It was free to get in today and a taxi for 12 people was only 48 euro round trip.

When we got back we went to the Asian store and bought a light pan to cook our hard boiled eggs in the morning and boil water for instant coffee. We will take it with us for the days ahead, too. An Italian pilgrim. Told me we could rent it at the Xunta albergues and make a killing.

We had pizza tonight for supper at a place that makes their dough from scratch. Brought some home for trail food tomorrow. Also went to Mass (all but one student) and the priest said parts of it in English on our behalf. We were made to feel welcome and although it isn't "pilgrim " season he said a blessing for us in English and we all got a sello.

A good day. Much less complaining. Everyone more positive despite the rain. Tomorrow, Melide.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thanks for refreshing my memory!

November 24, 2010, I wearily stopped for a second breakfast in the patio of Casa de Los Somoza a rather chic, but friendly, casa rural. A small van of tourists arrived and a few hyper-tidy ‘Sunday pilgrims’ with new walking sticks exited in order to sample the trail! Spotting my pack and shell they politely asked “How long have you been walking?” “48 days!” I answered. Stunned they dashed to the bar and never moved on....
 
Hmmm, interesting. This is the first time I've seen something that links the Camino to an intellectual and academic exercise. IMHO the reflections can only be beneficial. Perhaps you can encourage them to post their reflections in this forum if they are so inclined. It may benefit other prospective and veteran pilgrims as well. More power to you and your students. Buen Camino and God bless!
I recall watching a really good documentary on YT about a very similar group, very good if you can find it. They did the whole CF so quite lengthy documentary but very interesting and watchable.
 
We experienced a bit of rain from about 10 am on today. Then we had a real downpour at about noon about a mile out of Melide. I was walking with Phillip from Majorca who is a teacher walking to help relieve some of his anxieties. I told him to hurry on as he was trying to reach Arzua today.

I stopped at Pulperia Garnacha long enough to ask about bringing a large group later. Their kitchen is open all day so we will go back at 6 pm. Everyone ducked into a different bar for coffee to wait until 1 pm. When the albergue opened.

Interesting that the Xunta albergues are so different. We've not been assigned bunks before. In this one all the students except our 40 yr old grad student were told to take upper bunks. M. , L. And I were allowed to choose lowers. Our new America friend Nancy was also given a lower bunk.

Showers here at this albergue were less private which really bothers some of the younger female students. The dining room here is very large. Bathrooms are large and with plenty of hot water.

Everyone is drying out, doing laundry, reading. Two or three are booking massages for Madrid already. 3 mire says of walking. Although today was not very fun with the heavy rain, everyone still seems in good Spirits. Everyone is ready to at least try a bite of pulpo later.

Back in the US, Phil leaves today to drive to Denver and spend the night prior to his trip to Alaska early tomorrow morning. Hope he gets to see the Northern lights as that is the goal of his journey. I will report on the trip to the Pulperia later.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Janet, tell them to be thankful for a bite of anything. Incidentally, near my home place there is a spot called Rest and Be Thankful! Hope Phil gets to see the lights...
Sorry, I do not mean to sound so harsh: in later life they will appreciate the gift of having something rather than nothing...
 
Janet, tell them to be thankful for a bite of anything. Incidentally, near my home place there is a spot called Rest and Be Thankful! Hope Phil gets to see the lights...
Sorry, I do not mean to sound so harsh: in later life they will appreciate the gift of having something rather than nothing...
Yes they were all VERY grateful today. Grateful for a very warm albergue; grateful for coffee con leche, grateful for hot water; grateful for industrial-sized washers and dryers; grateful for the Camino even in their sodden state. We have talked about pilgrims being thankful for whatever small things that we have and especially for family, friends, and each other.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Hopes were too high. I got the "big" pulpo split on 3 smaller plates. Only M. the other teacher and one student liked it so I ate my fill and the rest was left behind. They liked croquettes, Zamburinos, salad, tortilla, French fries, fried peppers. I will get over the disappointment. I won't own it. I will let it go. I will try in the future to temper my expectations.

Light rain tomorrow all day. Hope it is really light.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Only M. the other teacher and one student liked it so I ate my fill and the rest was left behind.
De gustibus non est disputandum. Pulpo is part of the trinity of things I try to find on every visit to Spain - the others being patxaran and churros with chocolate. But it really isn't to everyone's taste. A lot of people dislike the texture and others are squeamish about eating a big mollusc!
 
Hopes were too high. I got the "big" pulpo split on 3 smaller plates. Only M. the other teacher and one student liked it so I ate my fill and the rest was left behind.
Hahaha 🤣 I tried pulpo a few times but never liked it (it's like chewing fish-flavored gum, the last time it was so disgusting I had to spit it out) I think it's an acquired taste. Buen Camino!
 
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Hi Janet! Thank you so much for posting updates. They are a real pleasure to read. No matter the hardships, I believe each and every pilgrim nurse in your group will be better because of this trip. My hat is off to you!

In Portomarin (Oct 23) I stayed at the Albergue Ultreia. Very welcoming and good facilities. I quite enjoyed the albergue and Portomarin overall. I'm glad you had a positive experience! Seems you are walking in the rain a lot. I feel for you and your students. I walked 15 days straight in the pouring rain this past Oct. It wasn't fun but at least it wasn't cold. And I'm sure it is cold now- so it's amazing to me that everyone is carrying on so well. Your preparation has obviously been superlative.

Your mention of Palas de Rei and Melide brought back a flood of memories. Good ones BTW. Except for octopus. I can't bring myself to eat those creatures - a personal thing. I found an excellent Italian restaurant in Palas - very small, owned by a middle-age couple who do all the cooking themselves. One of my best meals in Spain.

Buen Camino!!!!!!!!!

 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Transport luggage-passengers.
From airports to SJPP
Luggage from SJPP to Roncevalles
Whilst I've enjoyed Pulpo a couple of times, I certainly wouldn't rave about it.
I'd still rather eat it than churros with chocolate though ( except perhaps for breakfast!) . I LOVE chocolate but that combo is just way to sweet for me!
Odd, but.
I guess we don't just 'walk our own caminos' we also 'eat our own way' on Camino!

Janet, thank you for this thread and for your daily updates.
 
Nearly lost our new hard boiled eggs pot last night when I accidently left it in the kitchen. It appeared someone else used it for soup, but I rescued it and I am cooking up tomorrow's batch now. I think we have the right breakfast combo now and I am not buying too much or too little. Getting gluten free stuff for my one student with the allergy, but most everyone eats a pastry or so plus an egg and a yogurt. The first few days I got too much yogurt so I only get 6 or 8 now.

No sunglasses needed today. It rained the whole stage between Melide and Arzua, but amazingly we all finished by 11:30 and spent 90 minutes drinking coffee and having snacks until 1 pm. One student had a distressing call from home about the loss of a family pet mid-stage.

We are in the Albergue de Peregrinos Arzua which is a very cool old stone house. Not sure why people dislike these so much. They are really purpose built and my students love them for the inexpensive laundry machines and spacious sitting areas. Also they are very warm. In fact it was hot in the dorm last night and I had to get up and turn down the heat.

Along with rain comes the smell of unwashed pilgrim feet from shoes on, under, and hanging from the radiator. Tonight I have a bed near a plug for my CPAP and have warned my bunk neighbors of the possible trip hazards and the cord has to be strung across the walkway.

Actually quite a lot of pilgrims in the road. A mother/daughter pair are walking and the daughter is celebrating her 36th birthday on the Camino. A couple of Italian guys are nearby me and we also saw them last night. A Spanish guy we met last night checked in with me about the hot water situation. My shower was cold after 8 female college students (small hot water tank). Two Asian pilgrims here that I have not met yet. Nancy our American friend stayed an extra night in Melide.

I had trouble getting a dinner reservation due to the Three Kings festivities. I made a reservation across the street and the owner called back to say they didn't have enough food for our group. We are going instead to a pulperia, but no pulpo tonight.

Phil's somewhere flying across the Pacific Northwest of the U S. Hope to talk to him during his layover in Seattle shortly.
 
Tonight's dinner was much more successful. About half ordered off the menu and got things like vegetable lasagne, chicken fingers or some kind of burger. Then the remaining group ordered rations. We had a salad, croquettes, 2 plates of Zamburinos, fries, bread, and two rations of Arzua cheese. We ate everything except the some cheese so we brought it home to take with us tomorrow. Everyone was happy and we came in under budget.

I am headed to bed. Our first longer stage tomorrow at 12 miles. No rain is forecast so that is some good news.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
We are in the Albergue de Peregrinos Arzua which is a very cool old stone house. Not sure why people dislike these so much.
I stayed there in October, beautiful building with great facilities and a nice view out the back from the top floor. There were a lot of unhappy pilgrims though the next morning due to the behavior and noise. I guess this is because it was busy due to being on the latter stages of the CF, and at a popular time. I personally was ok, but do recall the atmosphere wasn't the same as the majority of the other Albergues I'd stayed in (municipal or not).
 
Whilst I've enjoyed Pulpo a couple of times, I certainly wouldn't rave about it.

I had it once in Santilliana del Mar, it was fried, and it was amazing. I had it a couple of times on the CF and I didn't really enjoy it - but it was boiled not fried. I think this is the difference to me (everything is better fried right(even Mars Bars)?
 
I had it once in Santilliana del Mar, it was fried, and it was amazing. I had it a couple of times on the CF and I didn't really enjoy it - but it was boiled not fried. I think this is the difference to me (everything is better fried right(even Mars Bars)?
yes. I think the difference may be to how they cook it. Grill, or fried or boiled. Maybe you've seen that guy in Melide in the window at the restaurant. He presents a full on boiled octopus as you approach, that's where I didn't like it.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I had it once in Santilliana del Mar, it was fried, and it was amazing. I had it a couple of times on the CF and I didn't really enjoy it - but it was boiled not fried. I think this is the difference to me (everything is better fried right(even Mars Bars)?
Yes in Galicia it is served boiled with paprika and olive oil. I guess just set my egocentric expectations too high. Phil doesn't like it either and when I told him of their reactions he responded "I didn't think it was that special either. "
 
I stayed there in October, beautiful building with great facilities and a nice view out the back from the top floor. There were a lot of unhappy pilgrims though the next morning due to the behavior and noise. I guess this is because it was busy due to being on the latter stages of the CF, and at a popular time. I personally was ok, but do recall the atmosphere wasn't the same as the majority of the other Albergues I'd stayed in (municipal or not).
There was noise outside last night probably due to the holiday. It didn't bother me, but one of my bunk neighbors had a very bad case of gas last night. Stinky.
 
We made it the 12 miles and I am out looking for a place for supper for a large group. Two options. I will let you know what we choose. No coffee stops today
All I thought might be open were closed for the holiday.

Two students limping significantly. One sick with a cold. Watching them all closely. I have Covid tests, too. Pays to travel with nurses and nursing students.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Ok the first 2 places I stopped would not let me make a reservation. Either full or going to be closed tonight. The 3rd place is CHE 4 which is an extension of the CHE Pizza place which is closed for the winter. Phil and I had pizza there this summer and they have a wood fired oven. I asked if they were open tonight (Si). Can I make a reservation for 12 people (Si). Can we eat at 7 pm (Si).

All are showered and napping or have gone in search of wifi and coffee. Grocery stores are closed for the holiday so I stopped at a panaderia and bought the rest of the remaining pastries available and two small loaves of bread for breakfast. Looks like instant coffee, herbal tea, and pastries or Arzua cheese leftovers with bread.
 
Janet, my head is cold, I take off my hat too often to you and your unfailing perseverance! Sending positive thoughts for the limpers and the one with the cold. This is such a special day in Spain, you are lucky to have got off so lightly!
Actually, Janet, there is a book in there somewhere! Your retirement is coming up, so if you are at a loss... 😈
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
True, and written appropriately it could appeal not just to the Pilgrims audience, but Nursing too… something like 28 million of them, according to Google!
Yes, well thanks. I have had little time to keep up my obsessive checking of the forum, so don't see a book in the near future although I have been thinking about a hospitalera tome.
 
We all made it to Santiago. Long day as no coffee stops until just before Monte de Gozo. Most everyone (minus 2) walked into the plaza together to the bagpiper's tune. I put a 10 in her case as the students were enthralled. It was a sunny day so they all laid down backpacks and just sat and leaned on them and gazed up at the cathedral front. A fitting end to our walk. The other two were distracted with shopping. They are young women after all and pretty jewelry caught their eye.

We are checked in now to San Martin Pinario. M and I went up to Cervantes wine bar for some tapas and a glass of wine (and a bottle of water) to debrief. She's feeling more confidant now for next year's planning. Planning is important for the students. While I prefer to wing it myself, you can't do that on a holiday week with 10 hungry students. The exception is the Xunta albergues. They really are perfect for our needs and no reservations taken or required.

Tonight we are going to LA Galliciana Mercado. Everyone can get what they want. Tomorrow pizza again. Its cheap and popular with this group if i can find someone who will do a gluten free crust. We will go to mass and get compostellas tomorrow. A debrief is planned for late afternoon. Tuesday we go to Muxia by bus.

Phil's in Alaska taking a bush plane to a camp above the Artic Circle to see the Northern Lights. We are on our own journey this week.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Janet, well done to both you and M. !
(does anyone else automatically think of Judi Dench every time you read these posts?)
It's one thing to do this in summer, completely different in the winter months with so many facilities that we pilgrims normally take for granted closed.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
We all made it to Santiago. Long day as no coffee stops until just before Monte de Gozo. Most everyone (minus 2) walked into the plaza together to the bagpiper's tune. I put a 10 in her case as the students were enthralled. It was a sunny day so they all laid down backpacks and just sat and leaned on them and gazed up at the cathedral front. A fitting end to our walk. The other two were distracted with shopping. They are young women after all and pretty jewelry caught their eye.

We are checked in now to San Martin Pinario. M and I went up to Cervantes wine bar for some tapas and a glass of wine (and a bottle of water) to debrief. She's feeling more confidant now for next year's planning. Planning is important for the students. While I prefer to wing it myself, you can't do that on a holiday week with 10 hungry students. The exception is the Xunta albergues. They really are perfect for our needs and no reservations taken or required.

Tonight we are going to LA Galliciana Mercado. Everyone can get what they want. Tomorrow pizza again. Its cheap and popular with this group if i can find someone who will do a gluten free crust. We will go to mass and get compostellas tomorrow. A debrief is planned for late afternoon. Tuesday we go to Muxia by bus.

Phil's in Alaska taking a bush plane to a camp above the Artic Circle to see the Northern Lights. We are on our own journey this week.
Well done, and congrats to all concerned. I look forward to Phil sending in a couple of photos from his trip to the local walk thread! Safe trip home, Janet, to you and all.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Congratulations, Janet!! Felicidades on getting everyone to Spain and on the Camino.
Mostly it was a day by day thing and a little complicated. I think the students were charged $1,400 each for 15 days and they also had their airfare in addition. That included a 10% padding for unforseen costs. And they get back any money we save and we will save money. There some field trips planned such as to the castle with taxis, entrance fees etc. Train, plane and bus tickets in country, plus lodging and at least one meal daily. On the Camino I forecasted 25 euros per day each and at the Xunta albergues (10 euros) that was doable often with enough money for both breakfast items and supper. Honestly in winter and on holidays there are very few and mostly no coffee or snack places in between anyway ,

Madrid is of course much more expensive per day. We are saving by getting an AirBNB on the Grand Via with 14 beds. It has a kitchen and we will cook the first night and splash out for a supper the last night.

Santiago is somewhere in between with lodging around 30-35 euros per night that includes breakfast. I also added a bit more than 15 euros each for meals.

We had one student who did not come at the last minute and I could not get her bus and train tickets refunded without canceling a whole group of tickets and rebooking. Sbe will likely be charged for those and her plane ticket to Santiago.

Mainly I am very thrifty and I like good value, but the "experience" is also a factor. I want them to love the Camino and I want this trip to be a great lifetime memory. One is already planning a return with a sister.
 
Well done. It sounds like an experience to remember, for you and the students!

Curious to know: were the 4th floor pilgrims rooms at San Piñario unavailable because of being booked up, or under maintenance? It's not like it's the busy season.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
I want them to love the Camino and I want this trip to be a great lifetime memory.
What a gift to give all of them.

Congrats, Janet - well done! Now that the walking part's done, I hope you and M don't have to herd cats (the next bit may be challenging!).
 
Really except for the limited coffee it wasn't terrible. Its much, much colder in Wyoming. It rain 2 days, we had bedbugs one night, but overall we found beds and food in the evening. Few other pilgrims, but the ones we did meet were special and welcoming. One S. Korean priest participated yesterday in Mass and he said it was a special highlight. Several Spanish, two Australians, some Italians, a young Spaniard walking the Primativo to recover from a lost love. Its the same, just quieter. We are in the cathedral early and it appears there was no need to be. Students availing themselves of prayer and confession opportunities. Others just taking in the entirety. We hugged the Saint and visited the crypt. No botafumario. Out for repairs it seems.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Got our compostellas and raised the number for today by 11. I went ahead and got one with my group. No intense scrutiny of the credentials and I admit at least one day I had only one stamp as there was no other stamp option open for me. That was not questioned. The woman at the cash register told me they had no need for volunteers in the winter months.
 
Got our compostellas and raised the number for today by 11. I went ahead and got one with my group. No intense scrutiny of the credentials and I admit at least one day I had only one stamp as there was no other stamp option open for me. That was not questioned. The woman at the cash register told me they had no need for volunteers in the winter months.
The students will treasure their compostelas. As well they might. 👏
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
We had a little debrief exercise last night. Some came with no expectations, but are leaving with new perspectives. Since they had never been here in another season, they were not as disappointed as I probably was at the lack of open infrastructure. Again they really loved the simplicity of the Xunta albergues. The Camino provided what we needed. Lots of stories and memories.

M. and 2 others took a wrong path in the dark and even climbed over a downed tree before receiving my query asking them if they were lost. Downed trees are common in Wyoming on hiking paths due to pine beetles and wind damage. They have laughed several times about their slightly longer Camino.

They were not freaked out by the bedbug incident. They talked about how grateful they were for a dry place and a warm shower after 2 days of rain. They have repeatedly marveled at the sunrise photos on our last morning. Its been a good trip although not without our fair share of drama as is fitting for a group of mostly young women.

On to Muxia and then to Madrid where they hope to shop, see museums, get massages, etc before home and the beginning of another rigorous semester of coursework.
20240107_085151.jpg
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Just trying to finish out our trip for you. Spent a perfect day in Muxia. It was supposed to rain the whole day, but it didn't rain but a sprinkle in the afternoon.

Students found sea shells and marveled at the power of the crashing waves out by the church. We talked about the power of the place and how people had been making pilgrimage here since long before St James. Had a delicious evening meal of all kinds of fresh fish and shellfish.

I usually stay at Belle Muxia, but Angel was not open and referred me to a friend at Albergue@Muxia which was clean and nice. It was 15 euros, but warm in the winter. There was an equipped kitchen and laundry and plenty of space. There are lockers with keys for backpacks.

We took at bus and arrived at 1 pm and the students had the afternoon to explore. I sat and watched the waves from a stone on the point for 30 minutes to help restore my soul.
 

Attachments

The trip and our arrival in Madrid was stressful. Bus from Muxia at 6:15. Then a train to Madrid which arrived 1:45. We used our Cercanias Combinado feature on our train tickets to get from Chamartin to Sol and all 11 of us were successfully able to exit right on the Gran Via 2 blocks from our flat.

Ah, the shock of Madrid hit us right away. Our flat was to be ready at 3 pm. We arrived at about 2:45 and thought we'd wait in the lobby of the building , but a resident complained about "those vagrants with backpacks" and we were sent away.

That's when it started. I wanted to keep us all together, but students have minds of their own. Half headed across to a coffee shop, 2 went to sit on a street bench, and 3 more hung around like hobos in front of the building. I admit, I was in the hobo group as they seemed the most vulnerable.

Then 5 minutes later the apt was ready and everyone minus 3 coffee drinkers headed in. There are 2 washers and one dryer which caused a bit of a melee and some crying as people insisted they needed clean underwear followed by a rush for the showers.

Great apt for a group.7 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. Kitchen well equipped and there was coffee, cola-kao, tea, sugar, salt. After mediating the laundry and shower dispute, M. And I headed to the store for supper and breakfast groceries.

I made a checkout sheet for the keys. There are 5 sets, but some could not figure put how to use one so may be perpetually standing outside the door tomorrow turning the key back and forth and incorrectly. It gave multiple lessons, but even M. failed one or 2 attempts.

Almost everyone immediately transported themselves to shoe stores, Decathlon, ice cream shops, etc. I asked everyone to be back by 7 pm for supper and class activities.

I admit timeliness is one of my hot buttons. Probably a hold over from the military. If you are late you are wasting other people's time in my opinion. So at 7 when 4 were still missing, the rest if us sat down to enjoy our comfort meal of bread, salad, oven roasted chicken, and home-baked gluten-free mac and cheese. The others slipped sheepishly in and joined us when they arrived.

Last nights discussions included responding to homesickness (which set off a cascade of more weeping) and also an instructional session by our Grad Student on Guernica which we will see last this afternoon as a final part of our trip.

Phil is doing well in Alaska. He has seen the Northern lights and today is at Chena Hot Springs enjoying a dog mushing run and a soak. It will be good to see him Friday night.
 
Several have tickets to the Prado today. Some want to shop. I am worried about one who was weeping uncontrollably last night. Another learned of the sudden death of her grandfather so she's pretty weepy, too.

I am going to whip up some chicken vegetable soup for today's fuel. Then I need to scout alternatives and make decisions about how to get people to the airport tomorrow in a cost efficient, but safe way. The Airport Express bus stops nearby and there is a cab stand nearby as well. One student leaves at 6 am in the morning. Two more around 8 and the rest of us around noon or 1 pm. One student is in Madrid till 4 pm.

I also need to go in person to make our dinner reservation at Nubel. Online I could only do a prix fix menu which starts at 45 euros each. They are having a live Jazz band so it should be a good end to our trip.

We meet this afternoon at the Reina Sophia museum at 5:45. I was able to navigate the system to score us a school group ticket for a 5 euro admin fee. We will see Guernica and a few other exhibits before supper. I am sure I will need to help some get to the museum from here so will work on that as well this morning.

I hope I have a few moments to sit in the Plaza Mayor and people watch, too.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
The Airport Express bus stops nearby and there is a cab stand nearby as well. One student leaves at 6 am in the morning. Two more around 8 and the rest of us around noon or 1 pm. One student is in Madrid till 4 pm.
I personally wouldn't consider the airport express bus for 6am or 8am. Taxi stand can be iffy too. Can you schedule a taxi/uber?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Congratulations Janet and M and all the future nurses on your achievements. It was great to follow your journey and interesting how complicated the logistics and budget of taking a group on the Camino. It is not something that occurred to me when I saw groups in the last 100k.
 
Hair askew; sitting in the bright sun at Plaza Mayor enjoying a snack and coffee. A lot of shopping by half the gang today. No crying today, but had to pry 2 out of their funk and the apartment around 11:30 and they shopping, shopping, shopping now! Perhaps not the healthiest coping mechanism, but they are st least out walking in the sun.20240111_122435.jpg20240111_123708.jpg
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hair askew; sitting in the bright sun at Plaza Mayor enjoying a snack and coffee. A lot of shopping by half the gang today. No crying today, but had to pry 2 out of their funk and the apartment around 11:30 and they shopping, shopping, shopping now! Perhaps not the healthiest coping mechanism, but they are st least out walking in the sun.

That post camino funk is real-I sympathize with the crying pilgrim. That's totally me after a camino.
 

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