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I believe that's over last year. I think that we need to compare numbers against the last pre-Covid year of 2019 to get a really good picture of changes on the Camino.I haven't seen the full SJPDP April figures yet but in a reply to a question on Facebook today Monique from the pilgrim office stated that numbers this April were up by 29.5%.
View attachment 146180
I would imagine this is the case. But I could also see someone reserving 2 places at varying distances for the same night - not knowing how far they want to walk that day.More likely they do something like this:
Town A- Place 1 - Reserve June 18th
Town A- Place 2 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 1 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 2 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 1 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 2 - Reserve June 21st
Just taking the number from April 2022 which was 6769 pilgrims, and adding 29.5% we get 8766, which is a 2.2% increase over April 2019 when there were 8557 pilgrims starting from SJPdP.I haven't seen the full SJPDP April figures yet but in a reply to a question on Facebook today Monique from the pilgrim office stated that numbers this April were up by 29.5%.
Don't give me evil ideas!More likely they do something like this:
Town A- Place 1 - Reserve June 18th
Town A- Place 2 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 1 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 2 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 1 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 2 - Reserve June 21st
Once they get a better idea of when they will get to Town A, they cancel one or the other. If they need a rest day along the way, they cancel one or the other. Same with Town B and C and on and on.
If folks are more unsure of how it's going to go, they might make even more days of reservations of one town.
We can see that this method can easily at least double the reservations made, causing certain places to be "full" when they are not.
(This is just an informed guess. I don't have direct evidence of this happening.)
So accuse me of shouting "Fire" in a crowded theatre but have you seen the latest "rumors" about the heat wave in the Meseta, there are scorching temperature, no rain and another bed panic.
@trecile, I had decided to wait with a comment until you had checked in which rows the March data and the April data areJust taking the number from April 2022 which was 6769 pilgrims, and adding 29.5% we get 8766, which is a 2.2% increase over April 2019 when there were 8557 pilgrims starting from SJPdP.
View attachment 146190
Yes, the bed situation is a bit frustrating. There appear to be large groups (up to 20+) who are filling up the hotels/albergues so depending on what city you are in, there are no more beds. I have also heard/seen some albergues with empty beds because people reserve ahead but then dont show up or cancel last minute.I did CF in Winter 4years ago, didn’t book albergue
at all.This year at the end of March I saw a post here saying it will be good if you book the first 3days before you start from sjpdp, I have a bad knee I don’t know how far how fast I can walk,so just in case I decided to book 3days ahead and walk slowly at least I don’t have to worry during walking.
I tried to book Orrison a month early but it was full,
2 weeks before my starting day I booked Sjpdp, roncesvalles,Zubiru.I started at 20/4 and the pilgrim office was so busy. The next day I started 7am and arrived Roncesvalles at 4:30pm. I got my bed at 6pm .During waiting I saw many people has been turned away.I was worried, So I started to book 3 days ahead.When I got to Zubiri , I already booked Pamplona, Puente la reina, Estella.
So I keep booking at least 3 days ahead.
I’m glad I could know current situations of CF from the forum and planning my Camino .I don’t want to get stress and worry for bed during walking .
I would find that very frustrating too. I usually average about 30km per day on a longer Camino and I like to walk until late afternoon - sometimes walking another couple of hours after lunch. One of the reasons for making a reservation in the first place would be to make that possible without worrying about finding a bed. Being told that I had to end my walking day by 2pm even with a reservation would make me a very grumpy pilgrim indeed.What is equally frustrating is that i am a slow walker and try to reserve ahead so i dont feel like i am racing for a bed but i have been told to check-in by 1-2 pm or my reservation will be given away.
I stayed in Roncesvalles on my first Camino in July 1990. 9 pilgrims including myself staying there that night. The largest number I saw in one place for the whole walk to Santiago. Probably about 1/3 of the total number of pilgrims I met in 800km.It sounds as if the seven pilgrims were the only ones who arrived on that day and it was in July which was the main pilgrimage season for all and everywhere in those days.
I guess a little thread drifting is allowed now that the excitement about large numbers of pilgrims in SJPP has already subsided and I think you may be interested to hear this, @Bradypus: The first Boletín published by Elias Valiña has a list of the names of the persons who participated in the 1st Jacobean Meeting in May 1985; these were the first Camino movers and shakers.I stayed in Roncesvalles on my first Camino in July 1990. 9 pilgrims including myself staying there that night. The largest number I saw in one place for the whole walk to Santiago. Probably about 1/3 of the total number of pilgrims I met in 800km.
At least it will be comfortable sleeping outside when you can't find a bed...So accuse me of shouting "Fire" in a crowded theatre but have you seen the latest "rumors" about the heat wave in the Meseta, there are scorching temperature, no rain and another bed panic.
That’s very frustrating, but one thing you could try is to either WhatsApp or call the places if you know you are going to arrive late. I’ve never had a problem with that, just let them know you are still coming but will arrive late.One reservation made a couple days in advance was given away “due to confusion” but i think it is because i was due to arrive after 3 pm when most albergues start to give away reservations.
ANFAS is a very special albergue. It employs developmentally disabled adults who were super helpful.There is also the ANFAS albergue in addition to the San Miguel parroquial
This reservatiom was made through whatsapp. I sent a follow-up message the day of around noon to let them know i would be arriving around 4-5 but was still planning to arrive. Their response was “Lo siento no tengo tu reserva. Ha habido una confusión. Lo siento.” I sent a screenshot of the earlier message and they replied with the last 2 sentences of their previous message.That’s very frustrating, but one thing you could try is to either WhatsApp or call the places if you know you are going to arrive late. I’ve never had a problem with that, just let them know you are still coming but will arrive late.
I don’t blame the establishments for starting to give away reserved beds/rooms, because as others have noted, there are people who make multiple reservations and then pick and choose without notifying the albergue.
I do see your point but the net effect is that in practice you no longer really have a reservation you can rely on. And you may end up rushing to your destination or stopping your day far earlier than you might wish anyway because a 'reservation' is no such thing. A pity that selfish behaviour has such consequences for the rest of us.I don’t blame the establishments for starting to give away reserved beds/rooms, because as others have noted, there are people who make multiple reservations and then pick and choose without notifying the albergue.
The April data is now on the SJPDP Facebook page. The total recorded this April was 9,604. By comparison the April 2022 figure was 6,796 and the 2019 figure was 8,557. Closer to a 12% increase on the record April 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate above.@trecile, I had decided to wait with a comment until you had checked in which rows the March data and the April data are. Then I thought I will wait until SJPP have actually updated the table with their April 2023 data and have actually put it on the web but this may take ages.
A 2% increase of the pilgrims they registered in April 2023 compared to April 2019 which was the last "normal" year before Covid-19? That's not an earth shattering increase in total numbers, is it?
It's also larger than a 29.5% increase over April of 2022 as reported.The April data is now on the SJPDP Facebook page. The total recorded this April was 9,604. By comparison the April 2022 figure was 6,796 and the 2019 figure was 8,557. Closer to a 12% increase on 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate
Oh, she did not make a guesstimate, I had checked it.Closer to a 12% increase on the record April 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate above.
I believe, when setting out for the Camino one is supposed to accept the luxury of unpredictability, what is not acceptable back there at home.if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances
Don't know if this is still the case - but I have always found that if I let the albergue know I will arrive later, they will make a note of it. I also will send a reminder email in the morning if an albergue has a specific "arrive by or lose your spot" time. They just don't want to be turning people away and then have someone be a no show. I am walking the Via Francigena this summer, and there are several places I will likely arrive outside their scheduled check in time - and I always let them know my plans and ask in advance if it will be a problem. If it is - I cancel and go somewhere else - but that is rare. Most are accommodating.What is equally frustrating is that i am a slow walker and try to reserve ahead so i dont feel like i am racing for a bed but i have been told to check-in by 1-2 pm or my reservation will be given away. One reservation made a couple days in advance was given away “due to confusion” but i think it is because i was due to arrive after 3 pm when most albergues start to give away reservations.
Great! Will be good to hear your report!I will be able to give you live updates as I am volunteering that week in the Pilgrim Office in St Jean Pied de Port.Was there last year at the same period volunteering there for the first time and it was hectic.
I heard this evening that the office in SJPP stopped issuing credenciales to limit how many were walking and to relieve some pressure on the albergues.
I heard some pilgrims were offered the floor to sleep at a few places and it was gladly accepted.
I was also told that there were census takers of sorts counting pilgrims as they entered Leon. Not sure if thats common or not but we suspect it might be to try to keep track of the flow of pilgrims
I agree. The only thing that I would be willing to believe if I heard something like this is that they temporarily ran out of credencials.Sounds unlikely and probably not very effective anyway. There is no obligation to register in SJPDP. Pilgrims could just set off without a credencial and pick one up elsewhere along the way. And there is no mention of it on the SJPDP Facebook page. Monique from the office posts here regularly and I would expect her to mention
I agree that this sounds unlikely as a way to limit the amount of pilgrims. Many pilgrims arrive with credentials already in hand. I'd like to hear from @Monasp about this.Sounds unlikely and probably not very effective anyway. There is no obligation to register in SJPDP. Pilgrims could just set off without a credencial and pick one up elsewhere along the way. And there is no mention of it on the SJPDP Facebook page. Monique from the office posts here regularly and I would expect her to mention it.
Don't know if this is still the case - but I have always found that if I let the albergue know I will arrive later, they will make a note of it. I also will send a reminder email in the morning if an albergue has a specific "arrive by or lose your spot" time. They just don't want to be turning people away and then have someone be a no show. I am walking the Via Francigena this summer, and there are several places I will likely arrive outside their scheduled check in time - and I always let them know my plans and ask in advance if it will be a problem. If it is - I cancel and go somewhere else - but that is rare. Most are accommodating.
I heard this evening that the office in SJPP stopped issuing credenciales to limit how many were walking and to relieve some pressure on the albergues.
We should all mark our calendars for the first week of September for another flurry of "the Camino Francés is overcrowded" posts.
I hear this said when people want to justify why this year is somehow different from other pre Covid years but so far no one has produced any factual information to back it up. It is all anecdotal and usually from inexperienced pilgrims with no recent experience to aid their comparisons.Also factor in the fact that not all albergues have reopened since covid so the number of beds will be less, so a 12% increase in numbers since 2019 and a ???5% decrease in beds = a big bed race
You're almost certainly correct.I hear this said when people want to justify why this year is somehow different from other pre Covid years but so far no one has produced any factual information to back it up. It is all anecdotal and usually from inexperienced pilgrims with no recent experience to aid their comparisons.
It is very easy to say "but this year is so much worse because of all the albergues that have closed", no one can easily challenge that but every year the accommodation situation changes, some Albergue close for various reasons while other ones open.
In my opinion the opening and closing of albergues only really makes a difference in the immediate geographic area around those changes. It doesn't create a major difference across the whole 800 kilometres.
Exactly! Almost all the people I have communicated with on the Camino (2021 and 2022) and VF for my upcoming trip have been very accommodating. Those who are inflexible have stated that they are inflexible which has allowed me plenty of time to make alternate arrangements. I usually don't pre-book most days on the Camino, but I pre-booked all of it for the VF from Canterbury to Aosta. When the accommodation host isn't a "hotel" or formal pension/bed and breakfast with multiple guest rooms - I tell them upfront that I will be hiking the Camino/Via Francigena and when I expect to arrive. A few told me the check in time, but stated that "if it is hot and you arrive earlier please call and I will try to let you in early". Others have stated "message me when you arrive (at a certain point) and I will meet you when you arrive". And others have stated - I will message you the day before with how to access your room.Usually I only book when I know there is no other accommodation anywhere within my walking distance (lesser walked routes) or when I know I will arrive very late and there's not many places to stay.
I always inform the hosts that I'll arrive late, with an estimated arrival time. It's a good idea to call again during lunch time again, to confirm that you will arrive at x'o clock and make sure they know you're still coming.
Once the manager of a campsite (in France) stayed on site one hour longer to check me in, because it was a 40km + day for me with no other accommodation (nothing for 40km on an official route!) and she knew it was almost impossible to arrive before the official closing time, even if you started early. I called her in the afternoon because I was afraid I might end up standing in front of a closed gate totally exhausted in the evening.
Not only did she wait for me to arrive, but I got a spot with a wonderful view of the sunset.
So, what I want to say is, communication usually works. If places are sure you'll arrive, they usually won't give away your bed. So let them know you're not the kind of pilgrim that makes reservations and doesn't show up, and most of the time there shouldn't be an issue.
This doesn't surprise me. They did some of this early after COVID reopening in 2021. There were quite a few municipals that asked if I had reservations (I usually didn't). But I arrived in Spain for my Camino the very first day vaccinated tourists were allowed. I don't know how long they continued allowing reservations - but all of June 2021 I had some municipals asking if I had reservations.What I find one of the more interesting of phenomenon is that some municipals are allowing reservations. I arrived at one today and a volunteer was handing out numbers to those without reservations. (Those with reservations still needed to remember the order they arrived in as a reservation did not let them jump the queue … much to the annoyance of a couple of them!)
In short, no big deal and if it happens to you then enjoy the experience and you will have another great story to tell your friends and family when you get home.
You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...This is purely annecdotal I realize, but after reading all the posts from people exclaiming how busy the CF has been so far this spring I got nervous and booked a few more nights yesterday. I'll start walking on May 16.
In total I've booked the first 9 nights, including SJPDP. And happily I can say that I had absolutely no problems finding places, staying at:
- Roncesvalles
- Zubiri
- Pamplona
- Puenta la Reina
- Estella
- Los Arcos
- Logrona
- Najera
Most were booked on booking.com, and some were booked directly via email.
There were a number of options at each stop to choose from. I was booking dorm rooms, with the exception of Puenta la Reina where I booked a private room.
So, for what it's worth (not a lot I realize), the concern/panic I felt after reading some of these posts was completely unfounded. Again, I realize this is just one person's experience.
Buen Camino
Yep I realize, but as a first-time pilgrim I don't have an opinion on whether these places are the best places to stop, or if I would prefer some of the places that are off stage. The distances seemed reasonable, and the towns themselves look nice. So with no frame of reference I can't say which is better or worse. As I develop my camino legs I may decide I prefer to stop between the stages, but as I said the towns where I've booked accommodation look like the kind of places I'd like to stop at, so I don't think I can go wrong either way.You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...
You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...
thanks for posting this. We also start walking on may 16th from SJPDP and I have only booked the first two nights (which I did months ago). I am the kind of person who can spreadsheet the fun out of any endeavor, so on this Camino I am fervently resisting that and going where my feet take me. Buen Camino to you!This is purely annecdotal I realize, but after reading all the posts from people exclaiming how busy the CF has been so far this spring I got nervous and booked a few more nights yesterday. I'll start walking on May 16.
In total I've booked the first 9 nights, including SJPDP. And happily I can say that I had absolutely no problems finding places, staying at:
- Roncesvalles
- Zubiri
- Pamplona
- Puenta la Reina
- Estella
- Los Arcos
- Logrona
- Najera
Most were booked on booking.com, and some were booked directly via email.
There were a number of options at each stop to choose from. I was booking dorm rooms, with the exception of Puenta la Reina where I booked a private room.
So, for what it's worth (not a lot I realize), the concern/panic I felt after reading some of these posts was completely unfounded. Again, I realize this is just one person's experience.
Buen Camino
Just to clarify, what I have frequently heard from albergue owners is that they will hold my reservation till 3 or 4, and if I am going to arrive later than that, they want to hear a confirmation from me, which I usually send via WhatsApp. If there’s no confirmation, the owners are free to open up the bed.I do see your point but the net effect is that in practice you no longer really have a reservation you can rely on. And you may end up rushing to your destination or stopping your day far earlier than you might wish anyway because a 'reservation' is no such thing. A pity that selfish behaviour has such consequences for the rest of us.
That’s how some readers may perceive all 251 posts but it is not the intention of all 251 posts. People in distant armchairs have acknowledged that numbers appear to be exceptionally high this May compared to previous Mays.Gosh 251 posts attempting to prove the OP right or wrong.
I think this is one of the main reasons for the irritable posts of late. Ranting here about how bad it all is will only cause arguments. We could do with a handy guide for May to September .. what to expect , how to adapt and how to avoid being part or contributing to scare stories .. real or imaginedBut they should not scare those who plan to walk at a later time this year.
And people planning for 2024 should take note of the situation in early May. Too many are not aware of it.
A strong recommendation use Ultrya tours or Camino ways to book accommodation’s, they also take care of transfer and luggage/backpack transfers accommodationI did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).
consider this -
there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).
so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.
obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.
before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.
the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.
this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.
if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).
rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.
Just to clarify, what I have frequently heard from albergue owners is that they will hold my reservation till 3 or 4, and if I am going to arrive later than that, they want to hear a confirmation from me, which I usually send via WhatsApp. If there’s no confirmation, the owners are free to open up the bed.
Some of the confusion others have reported could be language based, but if I had a written confirmation of a reservation on WhatsApp, and had written assurances that it would be held for me, I would try some gentle persuasion on arrival to get help finding an alternative.
Maybe you will be chastised although when you read posts "where can I find Asian store to buy a cheap umbrella" and "can you wear shorts on the camino" I can feel your painPerhaps pilgrims need to learn to be a tad more resourceful. Surely a simple google search would have informed people that starting from SJPdP (a busy place at the quietest of times) on a holiday weekend would pose some problems? These catastrophic posts are driving me nuts! The sky is not falling. Your lack of planning does not constitute an emergency on the part of everyone on the Camino, nor everyone on the forum. People are on here literally asking others how to buy a bra; if they can drink the water in Spain; if they can find food in Spain; if they can buy sunscreen in Spain; what an ATM looks like in Spain; how much of their foreign currency they should bring to Spain, for some reason assuming it will be readily accepted; what the temperature will be tomorrow, and the chance of rain the day after that. For the love of Christ, people, I am surprised most can make it out of their own driveway. I will be soundly chastised for this post, but seriously, seriously...?
My first night on the Camino in 2001 was in the old albergue and we slept on the floor on mats that were provided. At first, it was difficult to find someone who would make room for me to put my mat down, but it worked out. My husband had to sleep in another room.That is indeed exactly what it was in Roncesvalles up till March this year. Numbers as usual.
But as from April 1st it has been much, much busier than April 2022, every day again. I was there from April 8th till April 21st and we never ever experienced so many pilgrims in that period. We KNOW that the Easter weekend is busy, we KNOW that the May 1st weekend is busy, but on all the weekdays inbetween normally we have 130-140 pilgrims. Now we had full house (245 beds) every day again and again and had to send pilgrims away with taxi's or they took a room in the hotel which is expensive.
Last weekend also the old albergue Itzandeguia (which was closed in 2015) has been opened, so approx. 50 pilgrims slept there on the stone floor ...
I love this, best post I have seen in a while. We really do still have Chicken Littles around alarming people over their short sightedness and lack of planningPerhaps pilgrims need to learn to be a tad more resourceful. Surely a simple google search would have informed people that starting from SJPdP (a busy place at the quietest of times) on a holiday weekend would pose some problems? These catastrophic posts are driving me nuts! The sky is not falling. Your lack of planning does not constitute an emergency on the part of everyone on the Camino, nor everyone on the forum. People are on here literally asking others how to buy a bra; if they can drink the water in Spain; if they can find food in Spain; if they can buy sunscreen in Spain; what an ATM looks like in Spain; how much of their foreign currency they should bring to Spain, for some reason assuming it will be readily accepted; what the temperature will be tomorrow, and the chance of rain the day after that. For the love of Christ, people, I am surprised most can make it out of their own driveway. I will be soundly chastised for this post, but seriously, seriously...?
At the risk of being (more) controversial, walk your own Camino, plan your own way, ignore the noise and enjoy the experience. I would never suggest dismissing the facts but please get everything in proportion &/or context...I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).
consider this -
there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).
so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.
obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.
before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.
the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.
this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.
if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).
rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.
It’s not a panic thread. We have been on the CF for nearly 2 weeks hoping to find a reprieve after Burgos only to find that it is actually getting harder to find accommodations. A couple at dinner today in Santo Domingo who showed up early to a municipal albergue that had 160 beds, had 151 of them reserved. Not a panic thread, wish that were so…Don't worry too much, this is just another "panic thread" - see this thread for a more varied perspective.
Buen Camino!
We did the Via de la Plata (Sevilla to Santiago ) in 2019....hoping to to do it again, but starting on the Mozarebe...........................voila, problem solved.I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).
consider this -
there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).
so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.
obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.
before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.
the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.
this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.
if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).
rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.
It’s not a panic thread. We have been on the CF for nearly 2 weeks hoping to find a reprieve after Burgos only to find that it is actually getting harder to find accommodations. A couple at dinner today in Santo Domingo who showed up early to a municipal albergue that had 160 beds, had 151 of them reserved. Not a panic thread, wish that were so…
Multiple bookings and walking the Camino--incongruous to say the least. Almost like committing a robbery on the way to church.Yes, this is the conundrum. People who don’t book because they want the freedom of the winging-it approach are finding that those who did book are taking all the beds that they want to be able to waltz into. Then the winging-it contingent criticizes those who do not want to be one of those left out without a bed. Then more people book, leaving fewer beds for the winging-it crowd, who then spend hours looking for beds, while those who have booked ahead check in, take their showers, and sit in the square. Seems like the pre-booking crowd is having a much less stressful and more pleasant camino, but I get why many just don’t want to go down that path.
It’s hard to figure out how the winging-it group can continue to enjoy the Francés in high season while so many are booking beds, at least not without a lot of the pre-planning to find off-stage albergues that don’t take reservations, but that means they’ve given up on winging it! Not to mention that it’s also hard to figure out how anyone can enjoy the camino Francés if the cafés and restaurants are mobbed. I have no doubt that you can still find solitude as you walk, it’s the end points that seem more problematic.
This is a terrific point, and I am sure that is the case. I have met many people with multiple reservations at different points along the way, just waiting to decide on the perfect place for the next night until the point that there is no more free cancellation. And this is something that really hurts the business owners in addition to those who can’t find a bed!
I don’t agree, I’m actually on the Camino at the moment, and there is several people not able to find accommodation. There are stories of 40 people being housed in the gymnasium sleeping on flattened cardboard at Larrasoana, I have spoken to them. For me personally I’m finding it very difficult to find accommodation and I talk a lot with other pilgrims on the Trail experiencing the same issues.Don't worry too much, this is just another "panic thread" - see this thread for a more varied perspective.
Buen Camino!
Where did you read/hear that numbers are 3x higher than pre-Covid? Obviously untrue. There were 42,940 Compostelas issued in the first four months of 2019 - the last pre-Covid year. For the same period this year the number was 57,281. A very significant increase in the order of 25% but throwing around a gross exaggeration like "3x as many as pre-Covid" is irresponsible. The numbers leaving SJPDP are about 12% up on the 2019 figure for the same period.So there are 3x as many as pre-covid.
I am currently walking (started this year in Burgos) and the albergue owners and workers are already saturated so please if you are walking be patient and understand their side. Also, some have told me that there are less workers.I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).
consider this -
there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).
so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.
obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.
before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.
the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.
this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.
if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).
rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.
DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS NONSENSE. - as I disagree completely. I strongly recommend that you CONSIDER walking the Camino Frances. This writer oversimplified the reality of the available lodgings: There are hotels, Airbnb, and staying in a nearby village instead. In the heavy months, I recommend booking ahead (planning ahead). If none are available at your next destination then consider walking to the next village, taking a bus or train forwards or backwards, taking a taxi... You can pack a bivouac if you are really that worried.I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).
consider this -
there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).
so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.
obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.
before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.
the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.
this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.
if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).
rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.
I was in sjpdp and the nearby towns for 2 weeks from mid April.
I basically don't care if people walk the Frances or not. it doesn't affect me. but I'm putting it out there so people can reconsider their path if they don't want major anxiety. at the moment you absolutely have to book ahead. there's much less freedom in just walking til you've had enough and then finding accomodation.
I agree, so I started a thread yesterday about when and how to walk the Francés. If you have some constructive suggestions click here.I’m guilty of making more utterly pointless contributions on here than most; but this thread is - even by my standards - getting us nowhere.
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